So I made your engine! It was fun to make and easy to follow this video! I'm happy to say that the engine does work although not as well at I'd like(yet). I'm not sure if I need more heat or less or if I just did a bad job putting it together haha. I did have to much heat the first test and blew the solder out but it ran like mad whith the high heat. Anyways I posted two videos on my channel showing the engine on some foam to test.
Good job. I watched your videos and you are obviously close to getting it right. Leaks are the most common problem so use a bike tire pump to pressure test. In the video it looks like your boiler is higher above the tube outlets than suggested and perhaps it is too far from level. Maybe it is just the camera angle that makes it look that way. For the smaller engines it is sometimes hard to get a burner low enough to fit under the engine and the temptation is there to raise the boiler rather than build a burner that fits. Thanks for commenting.
I bought the little commercial ones from Lee Valley and they worked great. I couldn't get anyone in my family excited about them though, so I ran them for myself. I'm 70 and I thought they'd be fun to share with my kids and grandkids. Guess not.
Hello David. That's what I thought 10 years ago when I was 70. Apparently if it is not an electronic device with keys a sceen and interective it is of little interest. Never mind, play with it yourself. The made in India ones like you have rust very quickly as moisture inside the engine is very difficult to remove. Suggest you bake it in the oven after use at about 250 for an hour. with the pipes open end up. Buy some more and you can have races. Drf
@@DarylFosterPuttPutt4Video i just love historic toys back when an led was a luxury i may be young myself but sometimes i prefer to watch my turtles swim around as they are super goofy.
This clam shell design works awesome! It goes almost 2/3 faster than my other ones. I have built two, one for myself and one for my granddaughter. I need to get me a video camera so I can post mine. Thanks for sharing. Jim
I'm getting some supply's to build this engine. Thanks for the great videos. My grandma had some of these when I was you and I wanna make one and bring back some memories
I've been fascinated with putt putt boat's since I was very little. A friend help me build I tin one when I was 3 and I was amazed and attempted to build several in the years to follow, with little success I should add. Decades have passed since then and I've made one recently with 1/16th copper sheets for the diaphragm and with my observations and understanding that copper is a great heat conductor it heats up quick and putts along faster then my children can run. You have much more experience then I do would you consider looking into this and if you find something exciting share with us.
Good for you. Copper is the best material for the boiler but not for the diaphragm assuming you want it to make noise and I would expect 1/16 to be too stiff. However whatever works with these often frustrating little engines is fine. Did you have a specific question. Most of what I know is in my videos. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have heard of a couple of groups that have done that with both kids and adults. I think lots of people shy away now a days for fear of law suits from burns etc. I think some have been done with the easy to build types that you can see at sciencetoymaker.org. Very neat site for kids projects. Thanks for commenting.
Nice vídeos. I imagine how much work researching and trying new things you used to get to this high level regarding these boats. So, thank you for sharing your knowledge. -------------------------- I was wondering when the boat moves forward. When the metal capsule expands or when it contracts?
+San Pol Glad you enjoyed the show and thanks for commenting. The boiler collapses at the end of the power stroke which is when the boat moves forward and the steam condenses lowering the steam pressure. Pressure then starts to build again which expands the boiler. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for your reply. That makes sense. But how is that everybody else's pop pops don't need that amount of time to reheat the water? Have I got too much water in my engine? Thanks.
The problem you describe is usually caused by too much water or too much volume for your heat source to keep going. The amount of water in the boiler usually will correct itself with a bit of running. Unless you have a huge volume I would first try increasing the heat gradually in steps.
Bravo! Very cool. I am a big fan of your putt putt hooby. I'm a beginner in the hobby and I thank you for your willingness to put videos of how to do it..I am doing tests with engines pop pop and boats of rc, trying with simplicity, power and speed in my boats. I am brazilian .I know that you enjoy our good brazilian coffee. Me too! Keep with the good work and If you have time put a comment in one of my videos....
When you said the inlet has to be a quarter inch higher than the outlet does that mean the inlet is above the waterline? Is the inlet the center tube? Thanks.
Hi Daryl, for a class project, I have to create a putt putt boat which has superior speed. Do you have any recommendations for fuel sources which would boil the water more quickly? I considered using an electric heating coil, but then I require the additional mass of a large battery, and performance would surely suffer as a result.
+starreactor Unless you have built a very large engine more than enough heat is available from a methyl hydrate alcohol burner.Use extreme caution with this fuel as it can cause harm from burns, poisoning and fire. Better to built a boat that is extremely light in weight and an engine that runs with high hertz. Those have been the two keys to speed with all the boats I have built. Good luck.
+starreactor Good. I'm glad to hear that. There is a PS to what I wrote yesterday. The heating is only a part of the cycle. The other part, cooling, which causes the condensation is just as important.
I'll get back to you about that heated seat option. Sounds...um...a bit to hot. The two halves spoon together, right? I am intrigued with the zero volume or low volume concept. How did you discover it? Do you think it results in capillary attraction that helps keep it from running dry? Every engine I've seen--including my strange creations--have space between top and bottom. Finally, when you say "small electric soldering iron" does that mean 30 watt, as I use for electronics?
Dear Sir... - After welding parts top and bottom has been distorted ( has been too much gap volume) boiler work well but no sound, and I build another by start welding the edge of the circle, then to the tube ( less volume than before). Now, the boiler working with the sound.(I like to build the boiler just for hear the sound not for the boat) Final I am exceeding grateful your help.and I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas happy.
+ANTONIS VIANOS It does not have to be parallel with the water for the engine to run well but you should try to be close to it for two reasons. When it is level any liquid water in the boiler will flow to the center low point where the flame is and, as too much heat near the edges can melt the solder the flame will stay centered best in that position. I hope you are having fun.
Great stuff. Does anyone know why my pop pop coil engine fires, quite powerfully, and then takes 20 seconds before it fires again? It goes on,like that until the flame has burned down. Thanks for any help!!!
Thanks for commenting and watching. JB Weldbond is a good product. The engine normally should not exceed 500F. Adhesives are not usually at their best when subjected to the type of stress (shear) this design would put on them particularly because the surfaces to be joined are small in area. Clamping would be tricky as you don't want to squeeze all the glue out. By all means try it and let us know how it works. You are not out much if it fails and others might like to know.
wraft Hello wraft. Yes I have experimented a lot with tube length and diameter and it does matter. Not so much on diaphragm engines as the others though. There is more tech info in my other videos. There seems to be an optimum but it varies along with all the other variables in different engine designs.
Hi Daryl. Thanks so much for your informative reply. I note in passing that I much prefer your silent coil engines to the noisy membrane engines although your latest membrane engine looks like a beauty. Have you ever tried to build an engine with, say, 1/2" diameter or larger tubes 4 to 5 feet length? My interest in putt-putts is more in the area of the math of the cycles. It is quite a simple matter to model the cycles with a 2 differential equation system of the first order. The parameters that I varied in running the equations on my computer were, basically, the volume of the boiler, the volume of the tubes and the length of the tubes. For certain lengths, the system would not cycle at all. I was thinking it had something to do with resonant natural frequencies, although I never really nailed it down. Also, I noticed that the system seemed to accumulate energy, in that the velocity of the water column would grow with time. This peak velocity would then level off and, then, after a few minutes suddenly stop completely, which astonished me. It is as though the system has a limit. This is entirely a math phenomenon but I was wondering if it might have something to do with the "dry boiler" problem that is often described by experimenters. I am hopeless at building models. I once made a putt-putt engine with the spherical bottom of a coke can and some drinking straws. It only worked slightly and I gave up on it when I got sick of getting epoxy glue all over my body. Anyway, I'm glad to know that you are out there chewing away on these problems. Warren Raftshol
wraft I did play with a few 1/2" ID or more engines but as my main interest was speed the weight of large engines overwhelmed any potential or realized gain from the larger engine. Most of my work is based on trial and error with some high quality math/physics input from Jean-Yves Renaud in France. His input was invaluable and we collaborated on some tests and performance charting. I understand that the math or modeling is difficult as these strange little engines do not scale up and are quite unpredictable. Heat control and the condensation phase proved difficult to stabilize hence much of the burn out/dry out problems. The little 7 tube engine in my world's fastest videos proved to be the best power to weight performer and was quite reliable and strong. I have built engines with up to 4x it's power/force but could not make it go as fast nor perform as consistently. A single tube engine with little or no boiler has huge potential but again the controlling heat and condensation is extremely difficult. Jean-Yves and written quite a few papers on the math/physics that would probably interest you and I would be very curious to know if your work is in agreement with his. You can find the papers at www.eclecticspace.net. go to the pop pop pages and then to Jean -Yves's pages. There is translation built in. Please let me know if there are new developments.
When I mentioned a larger ID tube, I meant to refer to the water column. not the boiler. What is the ID of the tubes your are using? With small diameter tubes, the water boundary layer thickness can constrict the water flow significantly. Water behaves more like syrup than an inviscid fluid. I'm thinking that with a larger tube, your kinetic energy losses due to this boundary drag would be more ignorable and the water column could reach a higher velocity. I can't seem to get a translated version of eclecticspace.com, possibly due to my using a Mac instead of a PC. I sent Jean-Yves an email asking for his suggestion. I am quite eager to read his studies. Again, I am a fan of your boats and videos.
wraft The measurement I gave you is tube ID, not boiler. Other than single tube engines I have used ID's from 1/8" to 3/8".Hertz comes into the calculations.Click on the Union Jack flag to get the English translation.More interesting reading is at this link modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/viewtopic.php?p=632178#632178
I don't know what a jet torch is but assume it is a small propane/butane burner. It should work OK. It might be able to get much hotter so be carefull not to overheat the the metal which may then warp. That won't stop it from working but perhaps not as well and perhaps without sound. Go for it. You are not risking much. Let me know how it goes.
If I understand your question correctly the top and bottom should nest together like two spoons but not quite so much curve. This will add strength to your thin material. No gap ,no volume is correct. Don't worry if kinks make a bit of space. Because your material is thin it might bulge when you run it. It should still run but with less power. Let me know how it goes.
Daryl A superb new design!! I shall have to set aside some time to make one of these fellows. One detail I shall ask for the benefit of all- Why is one half of the boiler so much bigger than the other? I assumed there was going to be a fold -over of the edges...Could they be cut out the same size? Or did I miss something?
Excellent result! Do you soldered it with tin? Heat does not melts the tin when the motor is working? (Maybe you explained it in the video, but I don't understand spoken English, pardon).
This engine runs well and only needs a small amount of heat. Too much heat will melt the lead/tin plumbers solder. Silver solder/braze won't melt but very, very hard to use on thin material like this engine has. See my other designs that do not have diaphragms and build with high temperature silver braze and you will be very happy.
5/32 ID should be OK. >005 brass sheet should be OK. Keep direct flame as far from solder as possible. Change top to bottom probably OK.Hole in wood to match pipe size. You might find the right materials at a hobby shop. Hope I understand your questions.
nice engine.. i build my first one in sciencetoy metoad.. i really want to try this one out is it normal elektrical soldering or is it plumber?.. do you know if i can use tin plate as material.. thanks again for all your awesome engine designs i hope and can make one like you.. how do you ''solder your best engines?
Good for you. Loudness depends on the material used and how tight or loose it is assembled. For a lot more power try my Easy Build engine in another video on my channel. Have fun.
Muy bueno sus videos estoy interesado en hacer una lancha para mis hijos ya hace tiempo y su tutorial es muy completo ,pero cuando lo hice las soldaduras se abrieron y comenzaron las fugas y no funciono dado que lo solde con estaño 50 % el calor lo derritio cuando lo solde con plata no soporto el fuego del soplete y se quemo ...¿.Me podria aconsejar que puedo usar para soldarlo??? EXELENTE SUS LANCHAS
does the tank part of the engine have to be flimsy? I would like to create my own design but i know very little of these. If the boiler/tank part were completely rigid would it still function properly?
The ones that are flimsy/flexible is so they will make the pop pop sound. Engines with rigid boilers perform better re power but are silent. Look at some of my other videos. In particular putt putt engine design where you will see many different types. Have fun.
Hi- I have been looking around youtube and yours are some of the most informative videos on these boats- I was wondering if rather than soldering if I were to use JB weld, do you think it would work? it is able to withstand temps up 500F. Keep up the good work!
Wow! Your work is impressive and ahead of most that I have seen. I have watched and commented on your videos and sent the link to several builders I know. Thanks for letting me know what you are doing and please keep in touch.
Hey Daryl, I am finding the factors influencing performance of putt putt boat using your made design. I am having some issues with the brass sheet, it is not vibrating. Maybe because of the tube size is big (6 mm diameter). Can you suggest any solution of shaping the metal sheets? Thank you, Syed
+Syed Taha You do not say if the engine runs. Do you want me to help diagnose a problem? If you have done anything different than what is in the plans that might be the cause of the problem. If the brass you used is thicker that could be a problem. Let me know what help you want. Daryl.
+Daryl Foster Thanks for the quick response Daryl. The engine is running with very small propulsion and stops suddenly after about 5 minutes. I am also considering the effect of brass sheet movement(the putt putt noise), but when the brass sheet is shaped for tubes, it is deformed outwards and is hard to change shape by the vacuum created. The brass sheet is 0.1 mm thick, and the copper base is 1 mm thick.There are 4 tubes soldered to the boiler each of length 320 mm. Is the tube length too big for the engine to work for longer time? Also can you suggest me any way to shape the copper and brass sheet? Thank you, Syed
+Syed Taha If I understand correctly, the material sizes you have used are quite different than specified. The 0.1 brass is OK but using 1mm copper for the base will have high heat transfer and could cause the solder to melt and the boiler to leak. You have gone from 3 tubes planned to 4 and doubled the diameter and length I think. That is a very large amount of tube volume for the small boiler so I would not expect the engine to run well at all. Other than starting again and following the plan more closely you could try running with the boiler raised about 15 degrees up from the tubes outlet. I doubt this will solve the problem but in a larger engine with a greater boiler volume it could be expected to help. An engine that runs and then stops in a short time when all else is correct is most often caused by leaks. Double check for leaks, and, an engine can leak when hot from solder melt and then seal itself as the solder cools. When the engine stops you can immediately remove it from the water and see if it has any water left inside. If it does not it is either a leak or just a result of the design. Let me know how you make out. Daryl. Please do not burn yourself.
+Daryl Foster What would you suggest the thickness of the copper base then? Actually I am finding the factors the influences the performance of the boat, so I will test with 2 different diameters, different lengths and number of tubes. In order to run with 6 mm diameter tube, should I increase the size of my boiler? Or I make it a cube shaped boiler which has a constant distance between the copper and brass sheet? the other diameter I am testing is 3 mm. Also can I have your email or something so I can explain and show you the drawings? Safety first, got my gloves on before testing. Thanks anyways Syed
+Syed Taha I though you were trying to build the PP4V engine but I guess you are working on something else. Probably a good idea for you to watch some more videos about building engines and read the material that is available if you are designing your own engine. Good idea to do some experimenting. I'm sorry that I cannot consult on individual engine builds but keep up the good work. Don't be discouraged if it takes a few tries to get something you like. There is another design at modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about29385.html and another at modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/ftopic40752-0-asc-75.php
Why are the pipes so much longer than the boat? I don't see the advantage, and it is simply extra weight. Is there a reason the exhaust pipes have to be so long?
Dear Sir ... I am very interested in your boiler. I live in Montreal but my English too bad.So I do not know all of what you say Please can you help me some questions before I buy the materials to make it. - Can I use 5/32 copper tube + .005 "brass sheet (Ebay) - Why do you put place welding (2'' 1/2 the graph) directly to the wick If I change by turn the top to the bottom is the same. (Avoid the lead melted.) -Diameter hole drilled wood pieces. Thank you so much for your time.
Hello Daryl, I have tested with a similar engine with 3 tubes which stops after running for some time. I am guessing this is due to 3 tubes, that the steam does not travel down the tubes and get condensed(smaller boiler:tube ratio). Is it this what is happening? Syed
+Syed Taha Thanks for commenting. How long does it run before stopping? The most common cause of engine stopping is a leak. Sometimes leaks are very hard to see. Use a tire pump to apply air pressure to the boiler and pipes while holding the engine under water. Bubbles will indicate a leak. If engines with low temperature solder overheat the solder can soften a bit and cause a leak that will seal it self when the engine cools. Try running the engine with a bit less heat. If the engine stops see if there is any water left inside. You have to check quickly because as the engine cools it will suck water back in. If there is no water inside you either have a leak or have run it too hot. Good luck.
+Daryl Foster It is running for ~600 seconds. When I blocked 1 and 2 tubes, the engine then ran for a longer time. I have tested for leakage already and I dont think that leakage is the reason behind. Probably the power is too much, I am inputting around 36 watts. But if the power is too much, why it does not stop for 2 and 1 running tubes? It seems like tubes:boiler volume ratio does matter?! And there is a "tickle" sound after stopping, sounds like boiler is empty and its heating up.
+Syed Taha Does this engine have the same design and sizes as my PP4V engine? Do you have larger tubes? There is a relationship to boiler size and tube size and length among other things. Reduce the heat as much as you can to find the minimum amount it will run on. The tickling sound may be the last little bit of water which is insufficient to keep the engine running so it is sizzling in a too hot engine.
The fuel is simply water, You put water in to one tube until it starts running out of the others. Once you have that done you put a small fire or candle under your tank(The brass plates welded or soldered together).
I made boat in three days with yours video manual, and its working. Question it is very load one it is right? Or i did something wrong? But nice thing thank you. :)
You can Google "brass shim stock" where there are lots listed or search for it on ebay. You can also try hobby stores, metal supply stores or automotive/machine shop supply stores in your town.. Thanks for watching..
Daryl Foster thats what i wanted to hear! thanks . so i like the work your doing and you are good at it so try to make a new one maybe and make the pipes come to a funnel point just tappering the very end that is in the water line i think that may make higher pressure and higher speed even? thanks again for sharing.
I will send you the list of options available which might alleviate your disappointment. The heated seats have been popular. Regarding stupid questions:-Yes. The shape and material have been chosen to dissipate the heat before it reaches the solder. A small electric soldering iron is all that is required and the solder is lead free low temperature plumbers solder. Thanks for watching and for the questions.
Scaled to full size, this would be equivalent to a small boat with a small wood-burning steam boiler. Though, I think it might require check valves. (You could even design it so water is only sucked in from the front of the boat and can only exit from the rear.) A put-put or pop-pop engine is, *essentially,* a form of pulse jet engine (a simple type of ramjet), but built for steam and water instead of fuel and air. No, the cockpit of a full-sized boat would not necessarily be 200F.
@Simon HomeintheEarth I think a requirement to use valves would be the only *major* difference. A typical steam engine involves the use of at least one piston and camshaft, in addition to valves. A scaled-up put-put engine should be *much* easier to fabricate and build than, say, a Sterling steam engine. That simplicity could be appealing to some, esp. if it allows almost anyone to build their own. You might even get away with using flap valves.
@@XpaceTrue You referred to a "Sterling steam engine". Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think a Stirling (not Sterling) engine is a steam engine. It is a hot air engine. In case there was a steam engine called a Sterling engine, I searched Google for it, but I didn't get any hits. I also thought that a one-way valve, letting water in the front and out the back would make for a better pulse-jet putt-putt design, but if you look at other videos by the guy who posted this one, he has experimented with that, but found it to be detrimental. I guess he's probably right, having built about 100 putt-putt designs.
Dear Sir... Because I use .004 brass sheet it is easy to deform.So please help me to know. : -I must put 2 pieces (bottom +top)together with in O-shaped form (have a gap ,volume) -Or with in C-shaped form ( all part 2 piece touch together= no gap ,no volume) before to solder.Thank you in advance you time.
Good question. I'm not sure except that in my experience up to a point more tubes = better performance. My best engines have seven tubes. See Jean-Yves's pop pop pages at www.eclecticspace .net He has engineering and physics knowledge that I do not have. I believe that he said in theory a single pipe should be best, but I have found them difficult to run and inconsistent though at their best are impressive.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Two reasons for making one side larger than the other. #1.- Easier to solder. #2.-I hoped it would act like a cooling fin to keep the temperature lower where the vulnerable cold solder join is and I believe it does help. Part of the object of this build was to make it simple and not require special skills like silver brazing.
sometimes one tube is longer than the other, it makes no difference, I presume, but... what about different diameters? one bigger than the other... the big one at the base of the boiler, and the narrower one coming out of the top, one to favour water ingress the other to steam out...
I'm disappointed, Daryl. Sure, it's brilliantly designed and built; loud AND powerful. But can it text or connect me to my facebook account? Am I missing something? Seriously, great job! You've opened up original branches of engine design May I ask a few stupid questions? First, regarding engine design, is the big size partly a strategy to keep the heat away from the solder? Can you remind us, how do you solder: flame or big soldering iron? Is the solder you use lead free plumbing solder?
can u just make me one and send it to me? the way u teach people its very easy looking but i dont have the time to make it. but i would love to have one for my son
Thanks for commenting. The terms can be confusing if you are not familiar with how these engines work. I have used inlet as the end near the boiler and outlet is the end under water. In function all the tubes do the same thing. The water shuttles back and forth in all tubes. If you listen again you should hear that the inlets (boiler end) should be 1 1/4" higher than the outlets (not 1/4") when set up for running, and the outlets should be about 1/4" under water. Ask again if this is not clear.
Put Put boat aside what did I learn today? Never screw with an older gentleman's pronunciation as it will bring forth all the trolls from the nether regions of the internet. For what it's worth for me growing up here in NY we pronounce it sodder, never heard it said any other way till I ran into a Brit. Oddly enough a wonderful conversation started about language, not the horseshit I see here.
+Sagar Bhowar You kids, you say the funniest things and no it is not OK. They are called different things in different parts of the world because of language differences. For example, Klatterboot, pouf pouf and tok tok. Now go back to school and be sure to do your homework. OK
Solder! soL-der! There is an L in the word. It is NOT pronounced sodder in the English-speaking world! Otherwise, good video! However a basic (and probably less powerful) engine can be built without any complicated measurements or soldering (soddering) as can be seen here - GrandadIsAnOldMan Published on Jan 27, 2014
LOL. You're a funny guy. Never thought I would be attacked by the language police on You tube. You should do your homework though. The sources I looked at said both pronunciations are correct. Out here in the colonies where I live the L is (almost) never used. Where are you that sounding the L is the correct way? Perhaps the UK? So I have to ask, do you pronounce the L in walk and talk, or the B in comb and bomb? How about the K in knock and knuckle or the GH in right? And your name? Chris Daldy Hyphen Rowe I assume. As you are picky about the use of the English language perhaps you should use spellcheck. See your "its" and "wasnt". When you ask a question, "was it", we use a question mark at the end. Regarding the tone of your message we would call it sanctimonious. What would you call it where you come from? Thanks for watching.
Lacking the ability to use original thought, he fired back with a platitude that did not come close to hitting his target that was apparently some anonymous little girl. Shame on you Chris Daldy dash Rowe. Pick on someone your own size. Oh my, perhaps you are a little girl also.
So I made your engine! It was fun to make and easy to follow this video! I'm happy to say that the engine does work although not as well at I'd like(yet). I'm not sure if I need more heat or less or if I just did a bad job putting it together haha. I did have to much heat the first test and blew the solder out but it ran like mad whith the high heat. Anyways I posted two videos on my channel showing the engine on some foam to test.
Also do you think brazing could be possible? you could add a lot of heat if brazed
Good job. I watched your videos and you are obviously close to getting it right. Leaks are the most common problem so use a bike tire pump to pressure test. In the video it looks like your boiler is higher above the tube outlets than suggested and perhaps it is too far from level. Maybe it is just the camera angle that makes it look that way. For the smaller engines it is sometimes hard to get a burner low enough to fit under the engine and the temptation is there to raise the boiler rather than build a burner that fits. Thanks for commenting.
The heat required to braze these thin boiler parts would melt them. That was part of the challenge in designing this engine.
I enjoyed your boat making video. I have been failing for 3 months. I want to see your video and be successful. I respect you.
I bought the little commercial ones from Lee Valley and they worked great. I couldn't get anyone in my family excited about them though, so I ran them for myself. I'm 70 and I thought they'd be fun to share with my kids and grandkids. Guess not.
Hello David. That's what I thought 10 years ago when I was 70. Apparently if it is not an electronic device with keys a sceen and interective it is of little interest. Never mind, play with it yourself. The made in India ones like you have rust very quickly as moisture inside the engine is very difficult to remove. Suggest you bake it in the oven after use at about 250 for an hour. with the pipes open end up. Buy some more and you can have races. Drf
@@DarylFosterPuttPutt4Video i just love historic toys back when an led was a luxury i may be young myself but sometimes i prefer to watch my turtles swim around as they are super goofy.
This clam shell design works awesome! It goes almost 2/3 faster than my other ones. I have built two, one for myself and one for my granddaughter. I need to get me a video camera so I can post mine. Thanks for sharing.
Jim
I'm getting some supply's to build this engine. Thanks for the great videos. My grandma had some of these when I was you and I wanna make one and bring back some memories
We are going to try this weekend. Thanks for the clear descriptions!
Hey Daryl, can you try experimenting with larger pipes, i did it on my first and only put put boat and it runs quite well.
I've been fascinated with putt putt boat's since I was very little. A friend help me build I tin one when I was 3 and I was amazed and attempted to build several in the years to follow, with little success I should add. Decades have passed since then and I've made one recently with 1/16th copper sheets for the diaphragm and with my observations and understanding that copper is a great heat conductor it heats up quick and putts along faster then my children can run. You have much more experience then I do would you consider looking into this and if you find something exciting share with us.
Good for you. Copper is the best material for the boiler but not for the diaphragm assuming you want it to make noise and I would expect 1/16 to be too stiff. However whatever works with these often frustrating little engines is fine. Did you have a specific question. Most of what I know is in my videos. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I love all of your engines and am not very fond of diaphragm engines myself, but this engine sound is my most favourite yet!
They should have races for these with kids, see what design modifications they can come up with.
I have heard of a couple of groups that have done that with both kids and adults. I think lots of people shy away now a days for fear of law suits from burns etc. I think some have been done with the easy to build types that you can see at sciencetoymaker.org. Very neat site for kids projects. Thanks for commenting.
My school is doing a race, and I'm going to participate. Problem is my school is an engineering school
Nice vídeos.
I imagine how much work researching and trying new things you used to get to this high level regarding these boats.
So, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
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I was wondering when the boat moves forward.
When the metal capsule expands or when it contracts?
+San Pol Glad you enjoyed the show and thanks for commenting. The boiler collapses at the end of the power stroke which is when the boat moves forward and the steam condenses lowering the steam pressure. Pressure then starts to build again which expands the boiler. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for your reply. That makes sense. But how is that everybody else's pop pops don't need that amount of time to reheat the water? Have I got too much water in my engine? Thanks.
The problem you describe is usually caused by too much water or too much volume for your heat source to keep going. The amount of water in the boiler usually will correct itself with a bit of running. Unless you have a huge volume I would first try increasing the heat gradually in steps.
Bravo! Very cool. I am a big fan of your putt putt hooby.
I'm a beginner in the hobby and I thank you for your willingness to put videos of how to do it..I am doing tests with engines pop pop and boats of rc, trying with simplicity, power and speed in my boats. I am brazilian .I know that you enjoy our good brazilian coffee. Me too! Keep with the good work and If you have time put a comment in one of my videos....
Is there a way to scale this up a little bit so the boat can carry a servo rudder and reciever along with a small battery?
This is a great instructional video. I wish more were made this easy to understand.
When you said the inlet has to be a quarter inch higher than the outlet does that mean the inlet is above the waterline? Is the inlet the center tube? Thanks.
Hi Daryl, for a class project, I have to create a putt putt boat which has superior speed. Do you have any recommendations for fuel sources which would boil the water more quickly? I considered using an electric heating coil, but then I require the additional mass of a large battery, and performance would surely suffer as a result.
+starreactor Unless you have built a very large engine more than enough heat is available from a methyl hydrate alcohol burner.Use extreme caution with this fuel as it can cause harm from burns, poisoning and fire. Better to built a boat that is extremely light in weight and an engine that runs with high hertz. Those have been the two keys to speed with all the boats I have built. Good luck.
We are using the boat in a chemistry lab which is equipped with the appropriate safety equipment. Thanks.
+starreactor Good. I'm glad to hear that. There is a PS to what I wrote yesterday. The heating is only a part of the cycle. The other part, cooling, which causes the condensation is just as important.
Thanks for pointing that out and thanks for watching.
These are great videos ! Thank you for all the work sir . ❤️ From Alberta
I'll get back to you about that heated seat option. Sounds...um...a bit to hot.
The two halves spoon together, right? I am intrigued with the zero volume or low volume concept. How did you discover it? Do you think it results in capillary attraction that helps keep it from running dry? Every engine I've seen--including my strange creations--have space between top and bottom.
Finally, when you say "small electric soldering iron" does that mean 30 watt, as I use for electronics?
Dear Sir...
- After welding parts top and bottom has been distorted ( has been too much gap volume) boiler work well but no sound, and I build another by start welding the edge of the circle, then to the tube ( less volume than before). Now, the boiler working with the sound.(I like to build the boiler just for hear the sound not for the boat)
Final I am exceeding grateful your help.and I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas happy.
Hi Daryl kindly advise for the PP4V if the boiler must be parallel with the water line orIn some angle? You have done perfect job. Thanks
+ANTONIS VIANOS It does not have to be parallel with the water for the engine to run well but you should try to be close to it for two reasons. When it is level any liquid water in the boiler will flow to the center low point where the flame is and, as too much heat near the edges can melt the solder the flame will stay centered best in that position. I hope you are having fun.
Great stuff. Does anyone know why my pop pop coil engine fires, quite powerfully, and then takes 20 seconds before it fires again? It goes on,like that until the flame has burned down. Thanks for any help!!!
Thanks for commenting and watching. JB Weldbond is a good product. The engine normally should not exceed 500F. Adhesives are not usually at their best when subjected to the type of stress (shear) this design would put on them particularly because the surfaces to be joined are small in area. Clamping would be tricky as you don't want to squeeze all the glue out. By all means try it and let us know how it works. You are not out much if it fails and others might like to know.
Im gonna do this for the first time, can i use a jet torch to melt the solder, as i dont own a soldering gun?
Can this concept work on a full size boat?
Have you experimented with longer tubes? Is there an optimum length?
wraft Hello wraft. Yes I have experimented a lot with tube length and diameter and it does matter. Not so much on diaphragm engines as the others though. There is more tech info in my other videos. There seems to be an optimum but it varies along with all the other variables in different engine designs.
Hi Daryl. Thanks so much for your informative reply. I note in passing that I much prefer your silent coil engines to the noisy membrane engines although your latest membrane engine looks like a beauty.
Have you ever tried to build an engine with, say, 1/2" diameter or larger tubes 4 to 5 feet length?
My interest in putt-putts is more in the area of the math of the cycles. It is quite a simple matter to model the cycles with a 2 differential equation system of the first order. The parameters that I varied in running the equations on my computer were, basically, the volume of the boiler, the volume of the tubes and the length of the tubes. For certain lengths, the system would not cycle at all. I was thinking it had something to do with resonant natural frequencies, although I never really nailed it down. Also, I noticed that the system seemed to accumulate energy, in that the velocity of the water column would grow with time. This peak velocity would then level off and, then, after a few minutes suddenly stop completely, which astonished me. It is as though the system has a limit. This is entirely a math phenomenon but I was wondering if it might have something to do with the "dry boiler" problem that is often described by experimenters.
I am hopeless at building models. I once made a putt-putt engine with the spherical bottom of a coke can and some drinking straws. It only worked slightly and I gave up on it when I got sick of getting epoxy glue all over my body.
Anyway, I'm glad to know that you are out there chewing away on these problems.
Warren Raftshol
wraft I did play with a few 1/2" ID or more engines but as my main interest was speed the weight of large engines overwhelmed any potential or realized gain from the larger engine. Most of my work is based on trial and error with some high quality math/physics input from Jean-Yves Renaud in France. His input was invaluable and we collaborated on some tests and performance charting. I understand that the math or modeling is difficult as these strange little engines do not scale up and are quite unpredictable. Heat control and the condensation phase proved difficult to stabilize hence much of the burn out/dry out problems. The little 7 tube engine in my world's fastest videos proved to be the best power to weight performer and was quite reliable and strong. I have built engines with up to 4x it's power/force but could not make it go as fast nor perform as consistently. A single tube engine with little or no boiler has huge potential but again the controlling heat and condensation is extremely difficult.
Jean-Yves and written quite a few papers on the math/physics that would probably interest you and I would be very curious to know if your work is in agreement with his. You can find the papers at www.eclecticspace.net. go to the pop pop pages and then to Jean -Yves's pages. There is translation built in.
Please let me know if there are new developments.
When I mentioned a larger ID tube, I meant to refer to the water column. not the boiler. What is the ID of the tubes your are using?
With small diameter tubes, the water boundary layer thickness can constrict the water flow significantly. Water behaves more like syrup than an inviscid fluid. I'm thinking that with a larger tube, your kinetic energy losses due to this boundary drag would be more ignorable and the water column could reach a higher velocity.
I can't seem to get a translated version of eclecticspace.com, possibly due to my using a Mac instead of a PC. I sent Jean-Yves an email asking for his suggestion. I am quite eager to read his studies.
Again, I am a fan of your boats and videos.
wraft The measurement I gave you is tube ID, not boiler. Other than single tube engines I have used ID's from 1/8" to 3/8".Hertz comes into the calculations.Click on the Union Jack flag to get the English translation.More interesting reading is at this link modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/viewtopic.php?p=632178#632178
I don't know what a jet torch is but assume it is a small propane/butane burner. It should work OK. It might be able to get much hotter so be carefull not to overheat the the metal which may then warp. That won't stop it from working but perhaps not as well and perhaps without sound. Go for it. You are not risking much. Let me know how it goes.
If I understand your question correctly the top and bottom should nest together like two spoons but not quite so much curve. This will add strength to your thin material. No gap ,no volume is correct. Don't worry if kinks make a bit of space. Because your material is thin it might bulge when you run it. It should still run but with less power. Let me know how it goes.
Do you sell these motors on Amazon or Ebay or something?
Daryl
A superb new design!! I shall have to set aside some time to make one of these fellows. One detail I shall ask for the benefit of all- Why is one half of the boiler so much bigger than the
other? I assumed there was going to be a fold -over of the edges...Could they be cut out the same size? Or did I miss something?
Excellent result! Do you soldered it with tin? Heat does not melts the tin when the motor is working?
(Maybe you explained it in the video, but I don't understand spoken English, pardon).
Dear Sir
Thank you so much for your understand all my questions and your reply very helpful.Thank you again.
This engine runs well and only needs a small amount of heat. Too much heat will melt the lead/tin plumbers solder. Silver solder/braze won't melt but very, very hard to use on thin material like this engine has. See my other designs that do not have diaphragms and build with high temperature silver braze and you will be very happy.
5/32 ID should be OK. >005 brass sheet should be OK. Keep direct flame as far from solder as possible. Change top to bottom probably OK.Hole in wood to match pipe size. You might find the right materials at a hobby shop. Hope I understand your questions.
nice engine.. i build my first one in sciencetoy metoad.. i really want to try this one out
is it normal elektrical soldering or is it plumber?.. do you know if i can use tin plate as material.. thanks again for all your awesome engine designs i hope and can make one like you.. how do you ''solder your best engines?
Good for you. Loudness depends on the material used and how tight or loose it is assembled. For a lot more power try my Easy Build engine in another video on my channel. Have fun.
it took me three trys but got my last one to work thanks for sharing
Thanks. Use normal plumbers solder. Tin is OK but it will rust quickly. Best engines are brazed with higher temperature silver brazing/solder.
My small soldering iron is a pistol grip Weller 140/110 Watt. The two sides do spoon together. I will PM you more.
Muy bueno sus videos estoy interesado en hacer una lancha para mis hijos ya hace tiempo y su tutorial es muy completo ,pero cuando lo hice las soldaduras se abrieron y comenzaron las fugas y no funciono dado que lo solde con estaño 50 % el calor lo derritio cuando lo solde con plata no soporto el fuego del soplete y se quemo ...¿.Me podria aconsejar que puedo usar para soldarlo??? EXELENTE SUS LANCHAS
Thanks for the feedback dagwood.
does the tank part of the engine have to be flimsy? I would like to create my own design but i know very little of these. If the boiler/tank part were completely rigid would it still function properly?
The ones that are flimsy/flexible is so they will make the pop pop sound. Engines with rigid boilers perform better re power but are silent. Look at some of my other videos. In particular putt putt engine design where you will see many different types. Have fun.
Daryl Foster thank you for the quick reply you and your videos have been very helpful.
Hi- I have been looking around youtube and yours are some of the most informative videos on these boats- I was wondering if rather than soldering if I were to use JB weld, do you think it would work? it is able to withstand temps up 500F. Keep up the good work!
Wow! Your work is impressive and ahead of most that I have seen. I have watched and commented on your videos and sent the link to several builders I know. Thanks for letting me know what you are doing and please keep in touch.
Hey Daryl, I am finding the factors influencing performance of putt putt boat using your made design. I am having some issues with the brass sheet, it is not vibrating. Maybe because of the tube size is big (6 mm diameter). Can you suggest any solution of shaping the metal sheets?
Thank you,
Syed
+Syed Taha You do not say if the engine runs. Do you want me to help diagnose a problem? If you have done anything different than what is in the plans that might be the cause of the problem. If the brass you used is thicker that could be a problem. Let me know what help you want. Daryl.
+Daryl Foster Thanks for the quick response Daryl. The engine is running with very small propulsion and stops suddenly after about 5 minutes. I am also considering the effect of brass sheet movement(the putt putt noise), but when the brass sheet is shaped for tubes, it is deformed outwards and is hard to change shape by the vacuum created. The brass sheet is 0.1 mm thick, and the copper base is 1 mm thick.There are 4 tubes soldered to the boiler each of length 320 mm. Is the tube length too big for the engine to work for longer time? Also can you suggest me any way to shape the copper and brass sheet?
Thank you,
Syed
+Syed Taha If I understand correctly, the material sizes you have used are quite different than specified. The 0.1 brass is OK but using 1mm copper for the base will have high heat transfer and could cause the solder to melt and the boiler to leak. You have gone from 3 tubes planned to 4 and doubled the diameter and length I think. That is a very large amount of tube volume for the small boiler so I would not expect the engine to run well at all. Other than starting again and following the plan more closely you could try running with the boiler raised about 15 degrees up from the tubes outlet. I doubt this will solve the problem but in a larger engine with a greater boiler volume it could be expected to help. An engine that runs and then stops in a short time when all else is correct is most often caused by leaks. Double check for leaks, and, an engine can leak when hot from solder melt and then seal itself as the solder cools. When the engine stops you can immediately remove it from the water and see if it has any water left inside. If it does not it is either a leak or just a result of the design. Let me know how you make out. Daryl. Please do not burn yourself.
+Daryl Foster What would you suggest the thickness of the copper base then? Actually I am finding the factors the influences the performance of the boat, so I will test with 2 different diameters, different lengths and number of tubes. In order to run with 6 mm diameter tube, should I increase the size of my boiler? Or I make it a cube shaped boiler which has a constant distance between the copper and brass sheet? the other diameter I am testing is 3 mm. Also can I have your email or something so I can explain and show you the drawings?
Safety first, got my gloves on before testing. Thanks anyways
Syed
+Syed Taha I though you were trying to build the PP4V engine but I guess you are working on something else. Probably a good idea for you to watch some more videos about building engines and read the material that is available if you are designing your own engine. Good idea to do some experimenting. I'm sorry that I cannot consult on individual engine builds but keep up the good work. Don't be discouraged if it takes a few tries to get something you like. There is another design at modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about29385.html and another at
modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/ftopic40752-0-asc-75.php
MASTERPIECE!!!!!! NICE VIDEO!!!from argentina
Why are the pipes so much longer than the boat? I don't see the advantage, and it is simply extra weight. Is there a reason the exhaust pipes have to be so long?
Dear Sir ...
I am very interested in your boiler. I live in Montreal but my English too bad.So I do not know all of what you say Please can you help me some questions before I buy the materials to make it.
- Can I use 5/32 copper tube + .005 "brass sheet (Ebay)
- Why do you put place welding (2'' 1/2 the graph) directly to the wick If I change by turn the top to the bottom is the same. (Avoid the lead melted.)
-Diameter hole drilled wood pieces.
Thank you so much for your time.
Ok thanks for the answer, nice design by the way!
Hello Daryl, I have tested with a similar engine with 3 tubes which stops after running for some time. I am guessing this is due to 3 tubes, that the steam does not travel down the tubes and get condensed(smaller boiler:tube ratio). Is it this what is happening?
Syed
+Syed Taha Thanks for commenting. How long does it run before stopping? The most common cause of engine stopping is a leak. Sometimes leaks are very hard to see. Use a tire pump to apply air pressure to the boiler and pipes while holding the engine under water. Bubbles will indicate a leak. If engines with low temperature solder overheat the solder can soften a bit and cause a leak that will seal it self when the engine cools. Try running the engine with a bit less heat. If the engine stops see if there is any water left inside. You have to check quickly because as the engine cools it will suck water back in. If there is no water inside you either have a leak or have run it too hot. Good luck.
+Daryl Foster It is running for ~600 seconds. When I blocked 1 and 2 tubes, the engine then ran for a longer time. I have tested for leakage already and I dont think that leakage is the reason behind. Probably the power is too much, I am inputting around 36 watts. But if the power is too much, why it does not stop for 2 and 1 running tubes? It seems like tubes:boiler volume ratio does matter?! And there is a "tickle" sound after stopping, sounds like boiler is empty and its heating up.
+Syed Taha Does this engine have the same design and sizes as my PP4V engine? Do you have larger tubes? There is a relationship to boiler size and tube size and length among other things. Reduce the heat as much as you can to find the minimum amount it will run on. The tickling sound may be the last little bit of water which is insufficient to keep the engine running so it is sizzling in a too hot engine.
The fuel is simply water, You put water in to one tube until it starts running out of the others. Once you have that done you put a small fire or candle under your tank(The brass plates welded or soldered together).
Thanks Michel. Hope you and /or some on BLOOO will try it out.
I made boat in three days with yours video manual, and its working. Question it is very load one it is right? Or i did something wrong? But nice thing thank you. :)
Please, you would help me alot if you tell me where on ebay could I buy a good sheet for engine. Thanx!!!
You can Google "brass shim stock" where there are lots listed or search for it on ebay. You can also try hobby stores, metal supply stores or automotive/machine shop supply stores in your town.. Thanks for watching..
Is it practical to make these many times larger?
No
@@victormoralesschmidt6980
But you can always put more engines on the boat.
Sure. Just start with a very small flame as a lighter could put out too much heat.
Thank you David.
Thanks man huge help really appreciate it nice job❤😊😁 you answered all my questions your the best
That is so cool.
so im trying to understand whats getting used for fuel inside the engine? whats getting cooked in the engine? i think i'd like to make one.
Just water. Watch my other videos and learn more....if you like. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Daryl Foster thats what i wanted to hear! thanks . so i like the work your doing and you are good at it so try to make a new one maybe and make the pipes come to a funnel point just tappering the very end that is in the water line i think that may make higher pressure and higher speed even? thanks again for sharing.
gforcefoamy Most of the tubes do have a nozzle at the outlet although not all benefit from them. Clever of you to recognize that.
I will send you the list of options available which might alleviate your disappointment. The heated seats have been popular.
Regarding stupid questions:-Yes. The shape and material have been chosen to dissipate the heat before it reaches the solder. A small electric soldering iron is all that is required and the solder is lead free low temperature plumbers solder.
Thanks for watching and for the questions.
Did you ever think about making a full size boat that you can ride in
the cockpit would be around 200F. once the water heated up. Good for cooking lobster not so much for beach bunnies.
Scaled to full size, this would be equivalent to a small boat with a small wood-burning steam boiler. Though, I think it might require check valves. (You could even design it so water is only sucked in from the front of the boat and can only exit from the rear.) A put-put or pop-pop engine is, *essentially,* a form of pulse jet engine (a simple type of ramjet), but built for steam and water instead of fuel and air. No, the cockpit of a full-sized boat would not necessarily be 200F.
It wouldn't scale up without valves, etc. Basically, you would then be talking about a steam engine.
@Simon HomeintheEarth I think a requirement to use valves would be the only *major* difference. A typical steam engine involves the use of at least one piston and camshaft, in addition to valves. A scaled-up put-put engine should be *much* easier to fabricate and build than, say, a Sterling steam engine. That simplicity could be appealing to some, esp. if it allows almost anyone to build their own. You might even get away with using flap valves.
@@XpaceTrue You referred to a "Sterling steam engine". Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think a Stirling (not Sterling) engine is a steam engine. It is a hot air engine.
In case there was a steam engine called a Sterling engine, I searched Google for it, but I didn't get any hits.
I also thought that a one-way valve, letting water in the front and out the back would make for a better pulse-jet putt-putt design, but if you look at other videos by the guy who posted this one, he has experimented with that, but found it to be detrimental. I guess he's probably right, having built about 100 putt-putt designs.
Dear Sir...
Because I use .004 brass sheet it is easy to deform.So please help me to know. :
-I must put 2 pieces (bottom +top)together with in
O-shaped form (have a gap ,volume)
-Or with in C-shaped form ( all part 2 piece touch together= no gap ,no volume) before to solder.Thank you in advance you time.
I'm just not understanding the three and four tubes. What are the differences?
Good question. I'm not sure except that in my experience up to a point more tubes = better performance. My best engines have seven tubes. See Jean-Yves's pop pop pages at www.eclecticspace .net
He has engineering and physics knowledge that I do not have. I believe that he said in theory a single pipe should be best, but I have found them difficult to run and inconsistent though at their best are impressive.
could you use a lighter as your heat source?
Amazing.. loved it
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
I'm positive this can be scaled up to a full size craft...... On it...!!
like to know what fuels can use with pop pop boats
how do you bend the metal tubes without crimping them?
Time and patience my friend
Fill the tubes with fine sand crimp the ends and bend away.. when done, cut and remove the sand!
Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you enjoy building a Putt Putt engine.
Thanks very much Lindaneta1
Thanks for watching and commenting. Two reasons for making one side larger than the other. #1.- Easier to solder. #2.-I hoped it would act like a cooling fin to keep the temperature lower where the vulnerable cold solder join is and I believe it does help. Part of the object of this build was to make it simple and not require special skills like silver brazing.
sometimes one tube is longer than the other, it makes no difference, I presume, but... what about different diameters? one bigger than the other... the big one at the base of the boiler, and the narrower one coming out of the top, one to favour water ingress the other to steam out...
I would like to but I don't have the time or money to fill all the requests I get. It will be much more satisfying to build one yourself.
Thanks master!!!
Nice
I'm disappointed, Daryl. Sure, it's brilliantly designed and built; loud AND powerful. But can it text or connect me to my facebook account? Am I missing something? Seriously, great job! You've opened up original branches of engine design
May I ask a few stupid questions? First, regarding engine design, is the big size partly a strategy to keep the heat away from the solder? Can you remind us, how do you solder: flame or big soldering iron? Is the solder you use lead free plumbing solder?
Would a foil boiler work
lewis colley It has to be strong enough to handle the pressure and the heat and also to make noise it needs some temper or "springiness".
Thanks for watching and commenting.
nice put put boat engine
+TK 11287 Thank you very much.
can u just make me one and send it to me? the way u teach people its very easy looking but i dont have the time to make it. but i would love to have one for my son
we did this design and it broke and it sucks but im willing to do it again if this is broken again im going to hate it!!
I'm glad you tried and sorry it broke. What are you going to do different next time so it (hopefully) won't break again.
Are u saying that india is local
Local? I don't think I said that. I guess it is local if you live there. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for commenting. The terms can be confusing if you are not familiar with how these engines work. I have used inlet as the end near the boiler and outlet is the end under water. In function all the tubes do the same thing. The water shuttles back and forth in all tubes. If you listen again you should hear that the inlets (boiler end) should be 1 1/4" higher than the outlets (not 1/4") when set up for running, and the outlets should be about 1/4" under water. Ask again if this is not clear.
how did i get here?
Tin doesn't rust, but we know what you meant.
"You don't need special tools, or skills" and then "solder, nipple, tinning" lol WTF are you even saying?
"you dont need special tools or skills"
"this video assumes that you have skills in metal work"
You shoukd try asmr
Put Put boat aside what did I learn today? Never screw with an older gentleman's pronunciation as it will bring forth all the trolls from the nether regions of the internet. For what it's worth for me growing up here in NY we pronounce it sodder, never heard it said any other way till I ran into a Brit. Oddly enough a wonderful conversation started about language, not the horseshit I see here.
indian boats run faster
only when the British are coming :p
Kapal otok otok
it's pop pop not put put ok☺
+Sagar Bhowar You kids, you say the funniest things and no it is not OK. They are called different things in different parts of the world because of language differences. For example, Klatterboot, pouf pouf and tok tok. Now go back to school and be sure to do your homework. OK
Made in china... Not made in India
Solder! soL-der! There is an L in the word. It is NOT pronounced sodder in the English-speaking world! Otherwise, good video! However a basic (and probably less powerful) engine can be built without any complicated measurements or soldering (soddering) as can be seen here - GrandadIsAnOldMan
Published on Jan 27, 2014
Its not called 'Soder m8...its SoLder...say it with me...Sol---der....SEE that wasnt hard....was it :)
Chris Daldy-Rowe he said solder
LOL. You're a funny guy. Never thought I would be attacked by the language police on You tube. You should do your homework though. The sources I looked at said both pronunciations are correct. Out here in the colonies where I live the L is (almost) never used. Where are you that sounding the L is the correct way? Perhaps the UK? So I have to ask, do you pronounce the L in walk and talk, or the B in comb and bomb? How about the K in knock and knuckle or the GH in right? And your name? Chris Daldy Hyphen Rowe I assume.
As you are picky about the use of the English language perhaps you should use spellcheck. See your "its" and "wasnt". When you ask a question, "was it", we use a question mark at the end.
Regarding the tone of your message we would call it sanctimonious. What would you call it where you come from?
Thanks for watching.
Theres a 1st time for everything little gurl : )
Thanks for jumping in Ford Guy. One of my Fords to look at here drive.google.com/file/d/0B5BHELvejJ64S1RBSkc0ZlBPT3c/view
Lacking the ability to use original thought, he fired back with a platitude that did not come close to hitting his target that was apparently some anonymous little girl. Shame on you Chris Daldy dash Rowe. Pick on someone your own size. Oh my, perhaps you are a little girl also.