About 20 years ago, when I was a manager at a cutlery shop, I had a customer come in wearing a World War II veteran hat. He looked around and saw a Ka-Bar in one of the cases and said "Oh the Ka-Bar. Back during the war that was the best knife for opening your rations and cutting ropes." Then he looked over at a Sykes-Fairbairn replica and said, "But that Sykes-Fairbairn there, that was the best knife for... Social work."
@@TheTrueNorth11 why does it sound like I made it up? I worked for that knife chain for over 10 years, and given that the store I managed for a lot of that time was only a few miles from Arlington Cemetery we had veterans from plenty of wars come in on a regular basis and tell us stories about their time in the military.
My fiancée's great grandfather was a quarter master sergeant in the Canadian 3rd Division. He landed on Juno beach and fought his way through Normandy and Holland, he always carried a FS dagger the whole way through. Very nearly had to use it when he accidently ended up behind enemy lines while on a rum run. We're very happy to still have the dagger in our possession!
God bless you, sir. My uncle taught me when I was a kid, how to use his kit from Vietnam, and it also included the F/S knife. I never did like the original sheath design, and only recently made one out of Kydex that I'm happy with for my kit. There is just something incredibly aesthetically pleasing abut the F/S profile.
They were angled away from the grip, not twisted, by 5 degrees. They stopped doing it - it was deliberate - when everyone sent the knives back as defective...
In 1973 U.S. Special Forces SOG team were sharing some work together, asked if we would like to take their OPS and we were in. After the Hellish training we were awarded the Fairbairn Commando in Ceremony. I brought and still use Tetley Tea from the Brits, it was a funny way I got used to this, I was boiling the tea in my helmet and they came over kicked my tea over and said You're killing the tea, comon yank we'll show you how to make tea which I still do today. Hats off to you guys with the tiny cups.
@@stevent8314 nobody else is answering so I'll tell you, you boil the water first then add it to the tea. Water should be freshly boiled but not still boiling temperature or it scorches the tea. Steep the tea to taste. Everything else is subject to opinion.
My late Father in Law was a Royal Marine Commando. We still have his FS dagger upstairs. His is about half an inch shorter as he snapped the tip off during an excercise, it was re sharpened by the armourer who said the point wasn't as pointy but " It will still go in just push a little harder" Nice chap!!
This was very common with these blades. My grandpa fought in WW II and his buddy wrote a book about their experiences. He talks about the Marine Raider stiletto which was their version of this type of knife. Most of them broke their blades early on and wound up switching to styles more similar to the ka-bar, machetes or other types of hunting knives. Not sure if the ka-bar was issued at this point or not.
When I went through training in the 70s, we weren't concerned about the elastic as using these was intended to be planned and deliberate, so it was in hand well before "contact" with the target. We tended toward the neural foramin at the base of the skull or the brachial artery behind the clavicle. Firm, steady, and deliberate pressure over a quick "stab" was preferred as it protected the tip from breaking while allowing one to "feel" proper execution of technique. Generally "cleaner" than a carotid cut, too. There's a good reason this was labeled "wet work". Nice presentation. I always enjoy the history of the weapons you present. Thank you!
The blunt edge is probably because its an attempt to replicate an authentic "as issued" knife. I acquired a new MoD FS through the system whilst serving; it. too, is blunt. The forces have usually differentiated between "fighting" blades (white arms) and "working" blades - machetes, goloks, survival knives, etc. The former are issued blunt in peacetime, the latter sharpened. Fighting blades (swords, bayonets) are/were issued blunt, and were supposed to be sharpened by GOC order, usually in the preparation for combat. Such formal orders to sharpen bayonets were given on Op Corporate in 82 and Op Telic in 03 (and it certainly focussed your mind when you receive that order). QMs used to hold grindstones specifically issued for operational mobilisation.
The surface on the grip is called "knurling," rather than checkering (err, chequering for you folks). As I understand it, checkering is applied by hand with a v-profile cutting tool. Knurling is done with special tools on a lathe; the exact process is rather mystifying, but the results can be lovely. It's a classic modern industrial feature of the mid-twentieth century.
Knurling presses the checker pattern into the metal (or other deformable material), creating not just grooves but also ridges along the edges of the grooves. It's more like plowing than cutting in that no material is removed, just pushed aside. It makes the grippy texture more grippy.
If you've used good quality weight lifting bars, that's what they have for grip. Olympic and power lifting bars use it because it is excellent for hundreds of lbs/kgs worth of weight, without particularly damaging your hands.
@@daveh7720 It's called cold forming, I've never heard anyone call it plowing before. Edit, if that was made in a modern CNC machine shop, it's almost certainly cut knurled.
FS dagger is anually handed out to the best absolovent of Czech Army Comando course (basicaly a US ranger tabs equivalent). Name of the course and the dagger are both direct links to WW2 Brittain, where czech soldiers were trained as comandos, and than droped back home to fight the nazis. The ceremony is held in a crypt where those brave men who assasinated Reinhard Heydrich made their last stand. It is a great honor to recieve this dagger.
Cool story. Nice to see that those men are still remembered in such a way. To give their lives to rid the world of such an evil arrogant man should never be forgotten. Respect from GB.
I did Cambrian patrol against a team of rangers in north wales. They quit after two days as it was too cold and wet. Stick with your association with the commandos (I wasn’t one so not biased) and the story of the crypt where it is presented is amazing. I never new that, but know the story of the underground fight that ended up there. Per Ardua.
Hi Matt, 50 years ago I worked at E Fairclough and sons, we sold antique arms swords armour, katana etc, when arms came up at auction, it would be normally bidding against the Tower of London or the Wallis and Wallis collection, in Conduit Street, just off Regent Street, London. We had in our basement 3 boxes of FS daggers, the owners son purchased a 50 Guinea sword at a country auction, and when he collected it the 3 boxes (suitcase size) boxes came with it. We would give one away to any good customer that wanted one. One of our Customers was Charlton Heston, he didn’t want one !
The F-Sykes is an instrument of precision, the balance point makes it easy to control the point very precisely. But it also slices cured sausage 😊, if it's not too cured. It can pick up a green pea from a plate as well as puncture something that needs to be punctured. It's bloomin' fabulous! And pretty!❤
Got one myself, from J Knowill and sons, but went for the blackened blade. I was involved in martial arts for years and in my opinion, an excellent knife, feels great in the hand and , as said, made for a specific type of use, attacking vital points. The only thing that let it down for me was the quality of the sheaf, seemed quite cheaply made.
I prefer the Gerber MK 1, It's slightly shorter and easier to conceal and it's two edges are easy to sharpen, wicked sharp and holds it's edges well, pls the small ricasso make it easy to control the blade, and the 5 degree can't to the blade makes it easy and effective for it's intended use.
They weren't intended to be hung from a belt, but sewn on the two tabs provided on the sheath inside a trouser Map pocket or Denison Para / Commando Smock ( and later derivatives). The sheath was designed to be an open elongated bag type receiver for the blade rather than the conventional flat pressed scabbard. That way it could be drawn and returned with little trouble, and the elastic "keeper" holding the top of the pommel could be used with the minimal "fiddle" both as a restraint and to ease withdrawal. Everything was designed for max practicality, but the Fairbairn Sykes Dagger required specialist training for its surgical application. Only fools wave a knife around, a trained Para or Commando has the job done before his target /opponent knows WTF happened.
Thank you for this review. I was given a pattern 2 from an ex soldier when I was 12 I'm now 56 he told me the tip was clipped as was known to snap off after a lot of use so this was pre delt with by grindin the tip giving you the length you mentioned, also the blade comes blunt on the edge so as not to bite into webbing if it makes contact and the slight twist gives you a natural twist inside whatever you put it in if you only make one stab. Please make some more reviews on this subject.
This is kept by my bedside. I'm happy with the sheath being loose because the dagger needs slip out easily if I need to use it. I can't have it being caught and sticking if I try to remove it. I love mine so much. Definitely worth the money in my opinion.
Matt, just something I started thinking about watching this video. That unpleasant gentleman in Panama years back that stuck one of these into me lost it to me when the young Infantry fellows relieved me of my distress. I believe it was a first pattern. Very soon thereafter I both received a very minor gsw, and because of several experiences I won't go into, I felt I wanted to get rid of it. I gave it to one of the young gentleman that had come to my aid a couple of days before. He was almost immediately wounded, and air lifted out. In just a matter of days 3 owners of this knife had come into bad experiences. It was cheaply acquired in terms of price, but also very expensive in terms of ownership. I believe now that it was a bad luck piece, and gladly I never saw it again. I have never wished to get one of these knives in the many years since those events. Good video, as always, thanks and be careful.
Remember those old Peter Cushing Hammer Horror films? I read your rather splendid story in a Peter Cushing voice, - as he’s about to introduce The Blade of Death (or Fear or Vengeance etc)
I'll try and keep this short. When I was a young lad I had and older lady friend. She was born in Shang Hi in 1937. Her father served with Fairbairn on the Shang Hi police force. One of my S/F knives was built by Knowles and Sons of Sheffield. Est 1700. They've been making knives for over 300 years! Ian Flemming was taught hand to hand combat by Fairbairn at Camp X in WW2. Makes one wonder. Ian at Forgotten Weapons did a program on Fairbairn on his channel. Well worth watching if you're at all interested in the legend.
Ian Flemming was known to possesses the F-S except in smaller version. I have seen one of these for sale, so can confirm that they do exist. Flemming was also (at 'Camp X') in at the beginning of the formation of the OSS, later to become the CIA.
Carried one in 'Nam. Never had to use it. Bowie variants are made to do lots of things. This dagger is meant for quiet killing. If you want to open tin cans get tin can opener. Works better.
For all intents and purposes, it is an assassin's blade. It is designed for a quick kill. Blade goes in, and it is amazing well suited for that, and probably deals cutting damage when withdrawn.
It's meant to for instance be inserted into the side of the neck, then violently ripped out, taking out the arteries and throat in one go with the edge. Nasty little thing.
I picked off the black paint on the pommel too - and yes I blued it afterwards. My blade alignment with the guard is good, but it was also blunt as a butter knife which is easily fixed. A great piece for the collection and worth it. My sheath is not as large as yours, so looks like QC is a little inconsistent.
I can’t wait to follow along on this series. Even though the U.S. military, generally, used a multi purpose knife, U.S. Marine Raiders, and the First Special Service Force (“Devils Brigade”) used a modified Fairbairn Sykes dagger. I’ve seen copies of the latter for sale in Alaska and Canada.
That would be the Case V-42, which was based on the FS dagger. The reproductions range in price and quality with the Case models being the most expensive.
Quite right. The V-42 knife (issued to "The Devil's Brigade" is for all intents copied from the Sykes Fairborn knife with one slight change... There is a indentation just over the hilt on the blade itself so that the user can place his thumb into the indentation. The V42 knife was made in the US by Case. My Grandfather served with "The Devil's Brigade"...While he never really talked much about it he did show me a few of the hand to hand combat moves so I could protect myself. After he passed on in 1996....We came across his old WW2 footlocker.....Among other things...His "Force knife" was there. RIP Grandpa Al.
I'm lucky enuff to own 2 of these knives Both original Case run blades Picked one up at a estate sale first run Matte finish in the brown box it was issued in paid dearly for it The other is a Case second run it has the same finish as the F.S. and it's the only one iv seen with the blued factory finish Truly deadly blades and wouldn't want to be on the social end of either one
F YESSS! Congratulations on the new purchase! It looks like it has a nice, crisp midrib. Btw, it would be so awesome if you could get your hands on a recently made Cold Steel 1796 British LCS repro, and review it! Hopefully, you could get a sharp one that you're able to cut with!
You can get the all-black third pattern of this knife for under £50 online in the UK from the same maker, a much more accessible price if you're not strictly wanting a shiny second pattern one.
I seem to remember this knife being designated "Knife, SK" in the WW2 doccuments. SK standing for Silent Killing. It is most certainly not a utility knife. It is designed solely for the ending of human life in a quick, and quiet, fashion.
11:45 Small correction - the Broad Arrow mark isn't just for military issued items, but is/was also used for other government uses such as Ordnance Survey markers.
This Dagger is a Legend. Today our Special Forces in Germany uses nearly from the later Company Applegate Fairbaim such kind of Daggers in Form of heavier Replicas.
I could never understand their choice to use elastic strap on the sheath. You are right Matt , it doesn’t work. I always wondered if you are supposed to fold that elastic over the back of the sheath then stick the tip of the sheath through the elastic to put it on a belt. But it is still too lose and weighted wrong to hold the knife. It needs a big lead filled chape
I believe that it's a compromise between security/retention and a silent draw. Elastic may not last for ever but while it does last it's not going to rattle, it's not going to make noise being undone in the dark shadows, and it's not going to let your knife go for a flight when you hop over a ditch at 0dark30.
The elastic on the originals is much narrower so didn’t cause the same problems. I understand first pattern had leather retaining strap with a snap. 2nd pattern & beyond, the elastic was partially about silent draw, but also about cost reduction when Britain faced an existential threat and every scrap of material had to be used as best it could.
In my turbulent younger days I used these a lot. I think all mine were Type Threes. Broke some, lost some. They're great for stabbing, but not for much else. They mostly came with blunt edges, and they were mighty hard to sharpen.
Can't wait to see more of this one! Especially the historical accounts. Pick a long one, or more than one. That way we can settle in for some Matt Easton story time, and we can learn about terrible things our grandparents did to each other. ^_^
If you glue some leather inside the top of the scabard, it will tighten it up and if the flesh side is out it will also grip the blade a bit. The Applegate - Fairbairn Combat II was still being refined into the 1980s I believe.
The edge alignment theory reminds me of the recent video on Tod’s Workshop where he and Toby Capwell are looking at a rondel dagger with a similar offset between the blade and grip
For what it was designed to do, which is open people's arteries up, it does it real well. I had a reproduction that I carried in Iraq. Yeah, they're pretty effective.
@@camerongunn7906youre cleanind a room badly if somes grabbing your rifle Wouldnt it be easier to grab your side arm than a knife? And wtf is your number 2 doing while your mucking around
It's nice to stumble across this video I have a World War II Fairbairn Sykes dagger one of my great uncles brought back from Europe, very nice little dagger. It is also a pattern 2 your with brass hilt.
For what it's worth; My uncle fought in WWII, but wouldn't really talk about it. I acquired what I was assured by the trader was an "original WWII S/F knife and sheath" that looked in "rough" condition, I showed it to my uncle commenting "It must be a fake, there's not even any retention for the blade!" He said: "No, THAT KNIFE is REAL. It use to have an elastic band for retention. We would cut them off, and use a rubberband to retain the knife. THAT KNIFE wasn't used often, but when it was, you may not have had the luxury of time. So you simply broke the rubberband removing the knife." Me: "That looks like an good way to lose the knife, to me!" Him: "I suppose you're right. But I never lost mine. And never knew anyone else who did. But it could happen." He passed away last December at age 100.
Like you I’ve handled many, many original FS knives, and they almost never sharp. The two I have, one issued to my Grandfather in 1945 and the other found on a beach on D-Day are not sharp, and never sharpened. I keep coming across reviewers who say they should be sharp, but they were not, ever issued sharp. A few were field sharpened, but not issued sharp. Loose scabbards we’re not uncommon either. The elastic is in about the right place, but yours is a lot better than any issued knives… it was crap. It’s probably why my D-Day example was dropped, probably within moments of its owner having hit the beach. It was also usually brown. A video comparing my two is available on my channel (both 3rd pattern with genuine WWII provenance), but I’ll not add a link out of politeness. They are far from the only ones I’ve ever handled as I’ve been collecting knives for almost 50 years and am from a military family.
According to Fairbairn himself they were always intended to be user sharpened. Maybe to cut a step out of production or to accomodate user preferences on sharpness and edge angles.
@@wayneholmes637 This is how I think most tool and weapon blades should be sold. A factory bevel, but basically butter knife sharp so the user can sharpen it to their preferences. Honestly if you aren't comfortable with learning to put a good edge on a blade then you should reconsider owning them, it's part of basic maintenance.
I have a Fairbairn Sykes dagger I got a long time ago, don't remember who from. The edges of mine were rather dull as well. The steel is quite hard, I had a heckuva time getting it to take an edge.
Great Review Sir ! Is it possible that the blunt edges are there so that it can be freely shipped to areas that have strict knife laws ? In some places a double edge is taboo whereas a blunt 'letter opener 'can get through customs.
My original, acquired in the late 60’s, was dull edged, very sharp pointed, with a well fitted scabbard with a snapped leather keeper and a blacked brass/bronze handle and ID stamped guard. I traded it even for a nice M-1 carbine which could be purchased at that time for around $75. Incidentally we used to buy loose .30 cal. surplus ammo for $.02(cents) a round back then. Wish I had the knife back.
I have three in my collection....two are the second model original....they're pretty hard to come by these days.on the length blade...I've read that 7 inches was preferred as it was needed to penitrate heavy winter clothing and vital organs.
I have a p3 modern reproduction made in sheffield. Im a marine corps veteran and proudly display it next to my ka-bar fighting knife. Thanks for sharing. 😊👍
As a Boy Scout 70 yearsago we all had sheath knives no problems in those days ,one of my mates had one of those on his belt .That one had been used in WW11 Many years later I was given one {still have it} both of them were all black mine is in a leather case also stamped With 'Sheffield 'I don't think any commando would carry anything as shiny as yours.😃
@@mrdarren1045 I thought as it was a knife used by Commandos anything that reflected light would be a no go , chrome or black I would shit myself if confronted by a Commando day or night😁.
@@johnhemming9721 yeah I think that's why they also made the black version..for taking out sentry guards at night etc. And I wouldn't want either of them stuck in my guts either.
Great vid of a great blade. Owing to war time demands and strains it's understandable that there are variations from the original spec on the blade length. Just found your channel and hope to see a review of John Ek's fighting knives as well. I own a No. 3 produced by the last private company, owned by Bob Burlein of Richmond, Virginia, the author of the book on Commando knives. Was fortunate enough to acquire my Ek in 2005, a handful of years prior to Ek being acquired by Ka-Bar.
Ive got my grandfathers Fairbairne knife from his time in Africa, a numbered railroad spike from the Burma Railway and some other neat stuff! One of my favorites is My grandfather had taken a photo of another combatant about 15-20' away half falling but still standing, headless from artillery strike or something. Wish I knew my grandfather better, I remember him as a hard man!
Very informative video! I have long been fascinated with FS but never knew there were 3 patterns. There is something iconic about that piece of sharpen steel!!
Old video of Fairbairn demonstrating the knife shows him slashing a great deal (can be found on RUclips). My third pattered reproduction is also dull. I hope to see your sharpening of this blade.
Before the UK Governement made mail order of knives more trouble than it was worth, I used to carry a good variety of Sheffield Knives in stock. In fact I only ever stocked Sheffield blades. Most stock was folding pocket knives, army pattern folding utility knives, skinning blades and so on but I'd always put a Fairbairn-Sykes on the order, one of the cheaper Mk.III types with the cast alloy grips. Whilst many of the Sheffield makers names are owned by one group, it's certainly not the case that they are all made in the same plant going by what I saw. Neither are Fairbairn-Sykes Mk.IIIs sold under different names by different companies all the same as I saw considerable differences in quality, espcially in grip castings, from different suppliers, all made in Sheffield. I still keep some for retail in the shop, there's a Mk.III on the shelf in fact but I must admit I'm due a re-order. Choose carefully, there are many good makers in Sheffield but some are better at certain models than others. I buy from more than one but am selective of which products I have from whom.
This knife came from the Jack Adams factory, a small independent maker. Jack Adams was still making knives in his eighties, I have had a number of blades from the factory, all made to order, I had to wait for them.
@@inregionecaecorum yes I've had many knives from Jack Adams. Their F-S are better than those I've had from others. Their website lists Matt's model as £84 though unless I'm missing something. Their "Rabbiter's" knife is very good value and useful. The Dirk blade I was less pleased with. A. Wright are another good maker who produce some great pocket knives and hunting sheath knives. I've been round their factory. Still in the city centre. Other makers are still around some names have been noted previously.
@@TheWirksworthGunroom What did you not like about the dirk blade? I know they come with a threaded rat tail tang welded on which is probably not to everybodies taste but I believe that is the traditional way most are made.
My sample, imported to the US most likely post-war, has the guard at a slight angle to the blade. The guard is stamped Sheffield England on one lobe, on the hand side, and I cannot tell if there are markings on the other lobe. Mine is just under 7 inches, razor sharp. Black blade and grip, which is shaped in rings, rather than knurled.
Matt Easton can you do a sharpening video on how you’re going to put a super sharp edge on that knife? I was curious how you would do that since it’s completely blunt. Especially for those of us who are interested in maybe getting one but don’t know how to necessarily sharpen that kind of knife ourselves since it’s completely blunt.
On my 3rd pattern I dismantled the knife so that I could use a Lansky sharpening set to get even bevels on the entire blade. For my 2nd pattern I just just a little Fällkniven diamond/ceramic sharpening stone without taking it apart.
I bought 3 of these, 1x pattern 2 & 2x pattern 3's, one for myself and the others to my brothers as gifts, just checked mine and its a j. Knowell & sons, and all 3 were blunt even though I ordered sharpened blades.
Personally my all-time favorite knife is the Ka-Bar or the OKC next will probably be a Karambit. However I like double edged daggers but the handle has to be bigger so you can get a quality grip
I do have small hands, but I find smaller grips to be much more secure than bigger grips. If a grip is too thick I can't connect my ring and middle finger to my palm and that space is a weakness in terms of my grip on the weapon breaking.
First off, great review Matt, as usual. I appreciate your expertise, of course, but more important, I am grateful to see your honesty and integrity -- if not your diplomacy lol -- in evaluating the current J. Nowill rendition of a time-honored blade. I have one of the J. Nowill versions -- mine is a black blade third pattern with a hexagonal nut on the pommel -- a couple of third pattern William Rogers so-called NATO versions and one third pattern of unknown origin that I was gifted in the 1970s; my friend got it "Army surplus" and appears to have gone through hell before someone tried to polish away the oxidization and grime. The J. Nowill is a complete and utter disappointment. At first I thought I got a cheap clone, but I did buy it online from a reputable dealer and it came with authentic packaging and has the same markings and features as your own. I liken it to a souvenir made for collectors, NEVER intended for combat or anything other than fondling and hanging on a wall. Like yours the profile taper of my J. Nowill is far more acute any authentic F-S blades I've seen in my travels, the edge is duller than a typical broadcast television comedy and IMHO the quality of the steel does not inspire confidence; true, it rings when tapped on a hard surface, but it sound tinny and toylike. True, it does flex some, but not in a way that inspires confidence. I've not bothered to sharpen it and I am curious as to your thoughts when you do sharpen yours. I wager the steel will not hold an edge, but I am a prejudiced old man. lol Also, that hexagonal nut pommel offends mine eyes. At least yours has a more traditional round nut. In contrast, my two William Rogers and my ancient unknown reek of what we Yanks call "GI quality." They feel like something that we would have been issued in the service, the blade profiles are more robust and the steel seems akin to what we have on our Ka-Bars and other government issue blades. Each has been sharpened -- the two William Rogers have what looks to be a factory ground edge, in fact -- and while not razor, hair shaving sharp, they will cut. Compared to the fragile needle-tip point of the J. Nowill, the William Rogers are again, more robust while retaining the ability to pierce leather and meat, no problem. Methinks my 1970s era knife is also a William Rogers, but I can't say for sure. As I said, the finish has been polished off and evidence of corrsion and wear are evident. Except for that it looks and feels like a solid military issue weapon, the profile is spot on and the quality of the blade is excellent, even with the blemishes and wear. The pommels on my three non-J. Nowills are of the traditional round design. And while they will flex and return to true, it takes great effort and makes me think they would do well should they encounter the use and abuse common in military life. Yay me. My impression of the J. Nowill sheath echoes your own. It is, as we Yanks say, a piece of crap. Again, it looks like something you'd buy in a gift shop for your uncle who never served but loves collecting cheap military junk. The other three I have -- even the old "patina'd" dagger -- have GI quality sheaths. Nowadays we'd be better suited with kydex, perhaps, but that's another story for another day. Of my modest collection of F-S blades, I would have gladly taken either of the William Rogers -- and yes, even the old unknown origin knife -- with me on deployment. The J. Nowill looks to me more suitable as a gift knife, one that would be more at home on a plaque to be presented upon someone's retirement or other ceremony. True, it can be a lethal weapon -- apologies to Mel Gibson and Danny Glover -- but so can a broken beer bottle. Or even an unbroken beer bottle. As you can surmise, I'm not particularly happy with my J. Nowill and it's in my box of "for sale or trade" knives. I suspect J. Nowill won't make any substantial changes toward increasing the lethality and quality of the blade as they sell as many of this one as they can make. Authenticity, and real world "battle ready" blades are a unique niche. Even here in the states, most "collectors" collect crap. I've military friends who don't know better. Every now and again, though, the real thing rears its precious head and I regain a little bit of hope. Again, thank you for shining a light on one of my favorite knives. I look forward to your continued studies and videos regarding Messrs. Fairbairn and Sykes. While their teaching may seem old-fashioned to some, their warrior spirit and philosophies were needed in a world at war. Like other "antiquated" warriors, they have much to offer us know-it-alls in these modern times. Cheers!
In the Vietnam era (yes I am old) I got a lovely FS and a Gerber MkI. Traded the FS off years ago for a MkII. Still have those. Makes me think maybe I should find another FS. Or make one.
I'd lay blame for the dull edge on laws in other countries which don't favor shipping sharp things for one reason or another. Also, thank you for this video! I was on the fence about buying one and saw mixed reviews.
I would guess this polished version is intended as a presentation piece and there doesn't need to be sharp. Both of my all blued MOD versions were sharp out of the box, not razor sharp but sharp enough.
I grew up knowing a man that had a V42. He kept it from WWII. He was very nice but at the same time you knew not to disobey him. If he told you to do something you did it. Perhaps you could do a review of the V42? One of the reasons the originals are a bit shorter is the tip will break off when you train or use it. Just a question, could it be blunt because of the laws in GB? My last comment is I'm so very sorry for the lost of the Queen. God save the Queen. Long live the King.
My dad found one of these Fairbairn Sykes in the ground a few years ago and has a slightly visible written stamped under the guard ribbed handle no sheath It had a broken tip so I cleaned it up and re-profiled the tip it still has pitting but looks much better than it did and the cross guard is slightly slanted
Digging through some remote areas of my house, I was delighted to find my Wilkinson commando dagger, been so long since I'd seen it I figured it had been stolen. Bought it in Vancouver in the late 60's. What struck me was the heavy handle as per your point. I had put it up unsheathed and I think the sheath has shrunk as it leaves about 3/8" blade exposed.and I'm not going to force it deeper. The sheath has stood up well despite some stitching having let go at the top of the 'belt loop' and no rivets were used. The grip is the ringed style and the blade came with what I always considered a parade grind which sadly I sharpened years ago rather poorly considering my OCD. I received some serious frowning by 'experts' that told me they weren't sharpened as a dull edge left a ragged stab wound and was more difficult to suture what a joke. It's back in my loving care now and I can die a little happier in the knowledge.
Excellent video so far. Not sure if you will cover this, but the 2nd pattern you have is longer than the 3rd pattern and will NOT fit inside of currently issued MTP British military sheaths. But that is a very expensive site to buy one from. I got mine from soldier of fortune, the 3rd was about £50 and the 2nd was about £60-£70. sheffieldknives are a bit pricier than SOF but still cheaper than the site you cited. But as long as people can buy them at a price they're happy to pay, that is good.
My understanding was the weight being in the handle helped psychologically when stabbing to give you confidence especially if you get stuck on a rib for example. The slight curve on a knife edge works the blade into the tissue so an edge on both sides helps cut if you miss the target slightly. For example, when stabbing down just medial to the loop of the first rib from above, an edge on both sides should allow you to cut the subclavian artery, vein and brachial plexus (stopping the weapon arm from moving) and then go on to puncture lung apex and, given the length of the knife, hopefully the aortic arch or heart. This technique can also avoid putting a hole in a uniform or you can hide the hole with the shoulder epaulettes possibly.
What do you think about the presence of a secondary bevel on knives like this? From looking at the dimensions it seems like they might not be necessary. Also, as a knife maker, i appreciate the detailed review. it's sharp and it chops stuff is pretty easy to achieve, it's the smaller details that show the skill and care of the maker.
The late Mors Kochanski, who was an expert instructor in survival specializing in the boreal forest did mention seeing a lot of FS knives after the war (along with many surplus KA-BAR knives), and recalled that the FS made a superior fillet knife.
I saw a lot if not every of MK's YT-videos, but I never heard him claim this - can you please tell me your source? Who ever used a filetting knife will remember, that it was very thin, skinny and flexible to be able to follow the bones - whereas the FS is rather stiff and would certainly need a lot of grinding.
@@mannihh5274 it was in one of several videos he made on the topic of "survival knives". Iirc it is over at the Karamat Wilderness Ways channel. Edit: possibly this one: ruclips.net/video/nxuBi0Ci1eM/видео.html
@@jakubfabisiak9810 - thanks, that's one of the few I missed. The FS he showed seems to have a faily thin blade, so he might have make it work, but in general FS-knives are thick and stiff with steep angles, which aren't great at filletting.
@@mannihh5274 well, you have to consider that his two main options were Ka-Bar, and FS, so it might be a case of lesser evil. Then again, properly sharpened, FS wouldn't be so bad. And then there's the legendary clip from the late Stan W Scott: ruclips.net/video/uDGHKyB3T_U/видео.html
@@mannihh5274 Lousy fileting knives indeed. And for the 'throat cut, taking out sentries'. The boning knife is a better choice. Slicing edge is what you want there. Not the diamond shape of the F-S. To each their own ofcourse. It's classic knife, the F-S. But for some 'tasks' there are better choices. Some not even looking that 'commando'. Looks aren't everything.
I always heard that the tang was not particularly strong, Is there anyone out there that can direct me to testing? I understand the argument that it was meant for delicate killing, but how delicate?
Hey Matt! I just recieved the Mk 3 Kukhri from Heritage Knives! WOW! The blade has a lovely satin finish and is sharp as a razor, well oiled and the grind seems very durable! The grip is pretty, well made and the end plate is slightly rugged looking but it's just perfect! In all - long heavy and very swingable. Chop-chop! Both forehand and backhand yayy. Now the only problem I have is what to chop... what to do with it LOL. I love it, but of course I can't use it as intended and not as a wood chopper, and not as a bushwhacker... meat bones! Yes, a cooking kukhri! I can do that! Meat, marrow bones, onions, garlic, even turnips! One chop only! Whakka! 😂😂😂 In any case: loads of thanks for the tip and the reviews of Heritage Knives! I sincerely love my Mk 3 already!
What an interesting and informative video this is, I'm very pleased to have found your excellent channel and to have subscribed. Your FS Dagger is beautiful and very good value, thank you for including the link to the seller.
On the 3rd version still being in use. It is by some members of the millitary however they have had to buy them themselves. The Fairbairn Sykes stopped being isued by the MOD in the 1980s
I have a ww2 type 3. The nut on the end could be removed and lead shot added to adjust balance. Also many type 3 knives have a flat filed on the handle. This was to orient in the hand in the dark. For modern use we could use a kydex sheath for fitting on molle packs
Glad you got round to this knife. It's an interesting topic since it is about the only edged weapon apart from the bayonet that any living service person would have any experience of. Interesting too that it is a piece which everyone _thinks_ they understand immediately on seeing it, as you can tell from the comments, but actually have next to no understanding of the subtleties of its design and use. Some points on this first video, and looking forward to the others. When the USA first copied and issued the FS, they tried to do it on the cheap, giving contracts to the cheapest bidder. Most of their copies were, frankly, pretty crap. Thus Americans tend to think the FS a fragile knife because their own copies were so poorly made . When Britain sold war surplus knives to the USA, they were stamped 'England' so that buyers would know they were the original better quality pieces, and not the second-rate US copies. Re the blade shape and tip; yes this example is not as full in width behind the point as it might be, judging by issued originals. I think that is what people expect these days, and the manufacturer has probably done this to suit market preference and expectations. Of course, individuals would often alter the extreme point on their knife both to strengthen it and to prevent the rumoured objection that a needle point could get stuck in bone (yuk). Often the method was to put a tiny (2 or 3mm) chisel edge on the extreme point. The 'wasting' you mention is common and not a problem. By the time such a blade is in that far, the relief will ease further penetration. Some blokes exaggerated it on purpose and for this purpose. Have to agree that the scabbard is junk, but some time fettling could improve matters mightily.
@ SchollaGladitoria, My Father who was in the Highland Regiment of the British SAS had an original issue Sykes-Fairbairn Dagger and the blade was 6 and 5/8 th's Inches long.
I have my uncle's 2nd pattern F/S knife made by Wiĺkinson Sword. He was with 41 RM commando and landed on Sword beach. When, as a boy I would ask him if he ever had to use it in anger, he would just smile and say that he would tell me one day when I was older. He never did.
There are a handful of other manufacturers who make FS knives in Sheffield, it would be interesting to find out what the best Sheffield made FS on the market is
@@DETHMOKIL Not really, because it was designed that way. Unlike say the USMC Kabar, Combat/Utility knife. The Sykes Fairbairn Dagger was made to kill and thats it really. Not in a face to face fight, but sneaking up on a enemy sentry and taking him down quietly. That's just how it was/is.
I did see instructions where Fairbairn was having the knife going from one hand to the other with thought that it should distract the opponent. Not knowing from where the knife would go at him. Something along those lines.
Matt, did you know there’s a “new” UK company that makes these and also a “4th Pattern” FS Dagger? The 4th pattern seems to have addressed a lot of the short comings on the previous sheaths. The company has a site called fairbairnsykesdefence but they haven’t been posting much on social media lately so I don’t know how active they are. So far they are restricting sales to military and law enforcement, but what they had been posting looked very nice. However, I haven’t had opportunity to handle one of their blades to see there are similar quality issues. Also I appreciate your review because I ordered a “Sheffield” made 3rd Pattern FS dagger back in the early 2000s and it had all the same issues so I guess nothing on quality has changed in 20 years. Chipped paint exposing brass on both handle and sheath tip. Edges out of line with hilt. No functional edge. I did sharpen it up but the cutting geometry-even when sharp-is quite poor. Carrying it wasn’t great. Both FS Dagger and Kabar knives are very handle heavy and tend to flop about on belts. Although the sheath wasn’t great, it is completely silent in the draw-no brass snaps or tight leather-on-steel sliding sounds. So the tube of leather and elastic-yes it has problems but given the early 1940’s material technology, it did successfully eliminate noise. Modern synthetic sheaths tend to be made very tight and quite loud when any blade is drawn.
The balance point that the heavy handle brings furthr back than normal knives, makes the blade way more controlable, way faster, way more accurate too. Those are the most important reasons, that this balance point design offers. Staying more securely in the hand, is something that the guards and handle surface and overall design will offer.
After watching your video again I have looked at our example. It appears to be a 3rd pattern with the ringed hilt also the scabbard has a thin piece of brown elastic about 1/4 inch wide to hold the knife in and the metal at the bottom is rounded but looks like brass rather than blacked, there are no pieces of leather mid scabbard, (maybe they were removed but to me it doesn't look like they were ever fitted? The knife is also a lot better fit inside the scabbard than your example as you mentioned
I put my leather sheath up and replaced it with a Kydex sheath! Just a note with the kydex it came with a grip that would not let go! I had to modify it by heating it up and adjusting it to the hold I wanted.
Would it be better to just punch a hole in the leather where the elastic is (after removing the elastic) and stick the pommel through it to retain the knife? That aside. thanks for reviewing it and giving us all those awesome closeups. Somehow I had gotten the idea that the blade had a more square cross section.
On the Sof website, the 3rd pattern FS knife retails at about 50, - 70 with the bright blade - both are down as being made by Nowill & Sons; so I don't know whether the SoF ones are some kind of counterfeit or if Sheffield cutlery are overcharging?
The few swords and knives I have bought, not that I have a lot, here in the U.S. are pretty dull, even though you can also see where the edge has been ground down slightly. They all have been classified as replicas as well so maybe that is the reason. I mainly suspect it is to protect the manufacturer from lawsuits from people injuring themselves when they handle the blades. They are not really made to be used but just to look at unlike kitchen knives.
I had one in the 1980's I got from the Sussex Armoury. I can confirm there was an offset on the blade with respect to the crossguard. I was told this was to give it lateral strength, so that any perpendicular load did not go through the thinnest point, thus weakening it. ie, it is a bit like sloping armour on a tank. slanting it artificially thickens it with respect to the forces being applied.
During my time in the military I found a rusted knife of this design while on exercise in West Germany I knew its design and kept it then on leave I decided to leave it in my old bedroom at dad's house. I totally forgot about the knife which I'd taken some time to clean up so it was put in a fitted wardrobe in the top box. Years later after father passing away I returned as my brother prepared the house for sale , while putting plant pots in black bags low and behold then knife again rusted through with its pointy tip gone . No doubt father had found another use for the dagger i guess he'd ran the thin blade around plants dirt and packed roots in the plant pot to free them for planting else where. I'm sure Mr farebarin & Mr sykes hadn't thought of a use for this famous dagger in peace time but idle hands are the devils workshop or in this case fathers workshop saw a use for the thin blade 😇
Both my Nowill FS knives a MkII & a III came blunt but were easily honed on my butchers steel. Elastic on my MkII scabbard was the same. I also own one from Pooley swords which is engraved with Creasts of the Royal marines. A much better knife and with a hand ground blade but this came very blunt. Dave.
About 20 years ago, when I was a manager at a cutlery shop, I had a customer come in wearing a World War II veteran hat. He looked around and saw a Ka-Bar in one of the cases and said "Oh the Ka-Bar. Back during the war that was the best knife for opening your rations and cutting ropes." Then he looked over at a Sykes-Fairbairn replica and said, "But that Sykes-Fairbairn there, that was the best knife for... Social work."
Sounds like you made that up. Why do dumb people like you always make shit up in the comments lol. Give your head a shake.
@@TheTrueNorth11 why does it sound like I made it up? I worked for that knife chain for over 10 years, and given that the store I managed for a lot of that time was only a few miles from Arlington Cemetery we had veterans from plenty of wars come in on a regular basis and tell us stories about their time in the military.
@@Entiox That's a great story and I don't doubt it for a second.
I'm so stealing that euphemism.
My uncles were ww2 and Korea vets . They always used words "nicely for ugly things "
Rather like referring to someone as being "good with their hands".
My fiancée's great grandfather was a quarter master sergeant in the Canadian 3rd Division. He landed on Juno beach and fought his way through Normandy and Holland, he always carried a FS dagger the whole way through. Very nearly had to use it when he accidently ended up behind enemy lines while on a rum run. We're very happy to still have the dagger in our possession!
That's a Family Treasure..congrats!
What unit? 3rd Div... epic🙌
I agree got one, dull as a hammer. Disappointing.
@@johnmassey2309 it was for stabbing not cutting cheese
@@chrisbaxter3597 so is an ice pick. I want weapons that cut and stab.
During the Vietnam War, GERBER MK II combat knives were first sold with an angled blade. I used an F/S in Nam myself and still own it.
God bless you, sir. My uncle taught me when I was a kid, how to use his kit from Vietnam, and it also included the F/S knife. I never did like the original sheath design, and only recently made one out of Kydex that I'm happy with for my kit. There is just something incredibly aesthetically pleasing abut the F/S profile.
They were angled away from the grip, not twisted, by 5 degrees. They stopped doing it - it was deliberate - when everyone sent the knives back as defective...
What happened if you were left-handed?
what did you use it for?
@@38dragoon38 im a lefty, they still work, you just wear it on the left. they are worth about $3500 us tho
In 1973 U.S. Special Forces SOG team were sharing some work together, asked if we would like to take their OPS and we were in. After the Hellish training we were awarded the Fairbairn Commando in Ceremony. I brought and still use Tetley Tea from the Brits, it was a funny way I got used to this, I was boiling the tea in my helmet and they came over kicked my tea over and said You're killing the tea, comon yank we'll show you how to make tea which I still do today. Hats off to you guys with the tiny cups.
What is the way to make a proper cup of tea? We all have to know.
@@stevent8314 nobody else is answering so I'll tell you, you boil the water first then add it to the tea. Water should be freshly boiled but not still boiling temperature or it scorches the tea. Steep the tea to taste. Everything else is subject to opinion.
Yup, putting most tea in boiling water over extracts it and makes it bitter.
My late Father in Law was a Royal Marine Commando. We still have his FS dagger upstairs. His is about half an inch shorter as he snapped the tip off during an excercise, it was re sharpened by the armourer who said the point wasn't as pointy but " It will still go in just push a little harder" Nice chap!!
Nice times.
This was very common with these blades. My grandpa fought in WW II and his buddy wrote a book about their experiences. He talks about the Marine Raider stiletto which was their version of this type of knife. Most of them broke their blades early on and wound up switching to styles more similar to the ka-bar, machetes or other types of hunting knives. Not sure if the ka-bar was issued at this point or not.
When I went through training in the 70s, we weren't concerned about the elastic as using these was intended to be planned and deliberate, so it was in hand well before "contact" with the target. We tended toward the neural foramin at the base of the skull or the brachial artery behind the clavicle. Firm, steady, and deliberate pressure over a quick "stab" was preferred as it protected the tip from breaking while allowing one to "feel" proper execution of technique. Generally "cleaner" than a carotid cut, too. There's a good reason this was labeled "wet work". Nice presentation. I always enjoy the history of the weapons you present. Thank you!
The blunt edge is probably because its an attempt to replicate an authentic "as issued" knife. I acquired a new MoD FS through the system whilst serving; it. too, is blunt. The forces have usually differentiated between "fighting" blades (white arms) and "working" blades - machetes, goloks, survival knives, etc. The former are issued blunt in peacetime, the latter sharpened. Fighting blades (swords, bayonets) are/were issued blunt, and were supposed to be sharpened by GOC order, usually in the preparation for combat. Such formal orders to sharpen bayonets were given on Op Corporate in 82 and Op Telic in 03 (and it certainly focussed your mind when you receive that order). QMs used to hold grindstones specifically issued for operational mobilisation.
op corperate?
@@Yarkoonian, you could Google it? I will tell you, though. The operation to retake the Falkland Islands.
@@johnnunn8688 was a while ago, but I'm fairly sure I did, but did not find an answer. Thanks!
The surface on the grip is called "knurling," rather than checkering (err, chequering for you folks). As I understand it, checkering is applied by hand with a v-profile cutting tool. Knurling is done with special tools on a lathe; the exact process is rather mystifying, but the results can be lovely. It's a classic modern industrial feature of the mid-twentieth century.
Knurling presses the checker pattern into the metal (or other deformable material), creating not just grooves but also ridges along the edges of the grooves. It's more like plowing than cutting in that no material is removed, just pushed aside. It makes the grippy texture more grippy.
If you've used good quality weight lifting bars, that's what they have for grip. Olympic and power lifting bars use it because it is excellent for hundreds of lbs/kgs worth of weight, without particularly damaging your hands.
@@daveh7720 It's called cold forming, I've never heard anyone call it plowing before.
Edit, if that was made in a modern CNC machine shop, it's almost certainly cut knurled.
Usually called chequering when applied to rifle and shotgun woodwork and knurling when on metal so I was informed
Knurling is pressed into the handle.
FS dagger is anually handed out to the best absolovent of Czech Army Comando course (basicaly a US ranger tabs equivalent). Name of the course and the dagger are both direct links to WW2 Brittain, where czech soldiers were trained as comandos, and than droped back home to fight the nazis. The ceremony is held in a crypt where those brave men who assasinated Reinhard Heydrich made their last stand. It is a great honor to recieve this dagger.
Nice anecdote. But there is no US Army Ranger tab equivalent. You are either a Ranger or you’re not! RLTW
@@monroekelly9064 Fair enough. The guy who created Comando course went thru US army ranger school, and the principle of the course is the same.
They weren't brave. They got alot of there people killed.
Cool story. Nice to see that those men are still remembered in such a way. To give their lives to rid the world of such an evil arrogant man should never be forgotten. Respect from GB.
I did Cambrian patrol against a team of rangers in north wales. They quit after two days as it was too cold and wet. Stick with your association with the commandos (I wasn’t one so not biased) and the story of the crypt where it is presented is amazing. I never new that, but know the story of the underground fight that ended up there. Per Ardua.
I have my Grandfather's original 3rd pattern he used during WW2. The blade is set at a slight angle to the guard just as you describe.
Hi Matt, 50 years ago I worked at E Fairclough and sons, we sold antique arms swords armour, katana etc, when arms came up at auction, it would be normally bidding against the Tower of London or the Wallis and Wallis collection, in Conduit Street, just off Regent Street, London. We had in our basement 3 boxes of FS daggers, the owners son purchased a 50 Guinea sword at a country auction, and when he collected it the 3 boxes (suitcase size) boxes came with it. We would give one away to any good customer that wanted one. One of our Customers was Charlton Heston, he didn’t want one !
The F-Sykes is an instrument of precision, the balance point makes it easy to control the point very precisely. But it also slices cured sausage 😊, if it's not too cured. It can pick up a green pea from a plate as well as puncture something that needs to be punctured. It's bloomin' fabulous! And pretty!❤
About time you did a video on this iconic piece of kit.
Got one myself, from J Knowill and sons, but went for the blackened blade. I was involved in martial arts for years and in my opinion, an excellent knife, feels great in the hand and , as said, made for a specific type of use, attacking vital points. The only thing that let it down for me was the quality of the sheaf, seemed quite cheaply made.
I prefer the Gerber MK 1, It's slightly shorter and easier to conceal and it's two edges are easy to sharpen, wicked sharp and holds it's edges well, pls the small ricasso make it easy to control the blade, and the 5 degree can't to the blade makes it easy and effective for it's intended use.
They weren't intended to be hung from a belt, but sewn on the two tabs provided on the sheath inside a trouser Map pocket or Denison Para / Commando Smock ( and later derivatives). The sheath was designed to be an open elongated bag type receiver for the blade rather than the conventional flat pressed scabbard. That way it could be drawn and returned with little trouble, and the elastic "keeper" holding the top of the pommel could be used with the minimal "fiddle" both as a restraint and to ease withdrawal. Everything was designed for max practicality, but the Fairbairn Sykes Dagger required specialist training for its surgical application. Only fools wave a knife around, a trained Para or Commando has the job done before his target /opponent knows WTF happened.
Thank you for this review. I was given a pattern 2 from an ex soldier when I was 12 I'm now 56 he told me the tip was clipped as was known to snap off after a lot of use so this was pre delt with by grindin the tip giving you the length you mentioned, also the blade comes blunt on the edge so as not to bite into webbing if it makes contact and the slight twist gives you a natural twist inside whatever you put it in if you only make one stab. Please make some more reviews on this subject.
I have the third pattern and I quite like it. Very pointy and actually sharp enough to use. Probably going to get a second pattern one in the future.
This is kept by my bedside. I'm happy with the sheath being loose because the dagger needs slip out easily if I need to use it. I can't have it being caught and sticking if I try to remove it.
I love mine so much. Definitely worth the money in my opinion.
Matt, just something I started thinking about watching this video. That unpleasant gentleman in Panama years back that stuck one of these into me lost it to me when the young Infantry fellows relieved me of my distress. I believe it was a first pattern. Very soon thereafter I both received a very minor gsw, and because of several experiences I won't go into, I felt I wanted to get rid of it. I gave it to one of the young gentleman that had come to my aid a couple of days before. He was almost immediately wounded, and air lifted out. In just a matter of days 3 owners of this knife had come into bad experiences. It was cheaply acquired in terms of price, but also very expensive in terms of ownership. I believe now that it was a bad luck piece, and gladly I never saw it again. I have never wished to get one of these knives in the many years since those events. Good video, as always, thanks and be careful.
Remember those old Peter Cushing Hammer Horror films? I read your rather splendid story in a Peter Cushing voice, - as he’s about to introduce The Blade of Death (or Fear or Vengeance etc)
I'll try and keep this short.
When I was a young lad I had and older lady friend. She was born in Shang Hi in 1937. Her father served with Fairbairn on the Shang Hi police force.
One of my S/F knives was built by Knowles and Sons of Sheffield. Est 1700. They've been making knives for over 300 years!
Ian Flemming was taught hand to hand combat by Fairbairn at Camp X in WW2. Makes one wonder.
Ian at Forgotten Weapons did a program on Fairbairn on his channel. Well worth watching if you're at all interested in the legend.
Ian Flemming was known to possesses the F-S except in smaller version. I have seen one of these for sale, so can confirm that they do exist. Flemming was also (at 'Camp X') in at the beginning of the formation of the OSS, later to become the CIA.
An older lady friend, huh?
Carried one in 'Nam. Never had to use it.
Bowie variants are made to do lots of things. This dagger is meant for quiet killing. If you want to open tin cans get tin can opener. Works better.
For all intents and purposes, it is an assassin's blade. It is designed for a quick kill. Blade goes in, and it is amazing well suited for that, and probably deals cutting damage when withdrawn.
It's meant to for instance be inserted into the side of the neck, then violently ripped out, taking out the arteries and throat in one go with the edge. Nasty little thing.
When used as intended, the damage done when withdrawn isn't going to make a difference.
@@glandhound On the contrary, making a lot of damage on the way out is exactly how it is intended to be used: sliding in, and cutting itself free out.
@@glandhound Sgt Stan Scott gives the best explanation of why the cutting edge works beautifully here: ruclips.net/video/uDGHKyB3T_U/видео.html
The practise was and remains, the blade is twisted " when the blade goes in". 70 year old retired veteran here.
I picked off the black paint on the pommel too - and yes I blued it afterwards. My blade alignment with the guard is good, but it was also blunt as a butter knife which is easily fixed. A great piece for the collection and worth it. My sheath is not as large as yours, so looks like QC is a little inconsistent.
I can’t wait to follow along on this series. Even though the U.S. military, generally, used a multi purpose knife, U.S. Marine Raiders, and the First Special Service Force (“Devils Brigade”) used a modified Fairbairn Sykes dagger. I’ve seen copies of the latter for sale in Alaska and Canada.
That would be the Case V-42, which was based on the FS dagger. The reproductions range in price and quality with the Case models being the most expensive.
Quite right. The V-42 knife (issued to "The Devil's Brigade" is for all intents copied from the Sykes Fairborn knife with one slight change... There is a indentation just over the hilt on the blade itself so that the user can place his thumb into the indentation.
The V42 knife was made in the US by Case.
My Grandfather served with "The Devil's Brigade"...While he never really talked much about it he did show me a few of the hand to hand combat moves so I could protect myself.
After he passed on in 1996....We came across his old WW2 footlocker.....Among other things...His "Force knife" was there.
RIP Grandpa Al.
@@davidtucker7219, also the blade facets are hollow ground, whereas the original blade is a flat diamond shape.
@@johnnunn8688 Thank you...I wasn't sure about that. Again, thank you for your help.
I'm lucky enuff to own 2 of these knives
Both original Case run blades
Picked one up at a estate sale first run
Matte finish in the brown box it was issued in paid dearly for it
The other is a Case second run it has the same finish as the F.S. and it's the only one iv seen with the blued factory finish
Truly deadly blades and wouldn't want to be on the social end of either one
F YESSS! Congratulations on the new purchase! It looks like it has a nice, crisp midrib. Btw, it would be so awesome if you could get your hands on a recently made Cold Steel 1796 British LCS repro, and review it! Hopefully, you could get a sharp one that you're able to cut with!
Great to learn about the FS dagger. Thanks Matt!
You can get the all-black third pattern of this knife for under £50 online in the UK from the same maker, a much more accessible price if you're not strictly wanting a shiny second pattern one.
I seem to remember this knife being designated "Knife, SK" in the WW2 doccuments. SK standing for Silent Killing. It is most certainly not a utility knife. It is designed solely for the ending of human life in a quick, and quiet, fashion.
11:45 Small correction - the Broad Arrow mark isn't just for military issued items, but is/was also used for other government uses such as Ordnance Survey markers.
This Dagger is a Legend. Today our Special Forces in Germany uses nearly from the later Company Applegate Fairbaim such kind of Daggers in Form of heavier Replicas.
I could never understand their choice to use elastic strap on the sheath.
You are right Matt , it doesn’t work.
I always wondered if you are supposed to fold that elastic over the back of the sheath then stick the tip of the sheath through the elastic to put it on a belt. But it is still too lose and weighted wrong to hold the knife.
It needs a big lead filled chape
I believe that it's a compromise between security/retention and a silent draw. Elastic may not last for ever but while it does last it's not going to rattle, it's not going to make noise being undone in the dark shadows, and it's not going to let your knife go for a flight when you hop over a ditch at 0dark30.
The elastic on the originals is much narrower so didn’t cause the same problems. I understand first pattern had leather retaining strap with a snap. 2nd pattern & beyond, the elastic was partially about silent draw, but also about cost reduction when Britain faced an existential threat and every scrap of material had to be used as best it could.
It sucks but does function if you slip a thumbnail upward beneath the elastic while drawing in icepick grip.
In my turbulent younger days I used these a lot. I think all mine were Type Threes. Broke some, lost some. They're great for stabbing, but not for much else. They mostly came with blunt edges, and they were mighty hard to sharpen.
Sure you did little guy. I bet you were a real hardcore special forces killer
Can't wait to see more of this one! Especially the historical accounts. Pick a long one, or more than one. That way we can settle in for some Matt Easton story time, and we can learn about terrible things our grandparents did to each other. ^_^
Go and watch a video featuring Trooper Stan Scott, RM He tells the story of some of his war and how to use the FS dagger
I would definitely love to see more in depth videos about the Fairbairn Sykes dagger and its use, as well as first hand accounts.
Look for Sergeant Stan Scott No3 commando on youtube he tells of his wartime exploits and how to use the dagger!
the best stiletto ever made ... it was designed to kill and did it to great effect. An Italian who loves stilettos, and this pin is my favorite.
If you glue some leather inside the top of the scabard, it will tighten it up and if the flesh side is out it will also grip the blade a bit. The Applegate - Fairbairn Combat II was still being refined into the 1980s I believe.
The edge alignment theory reminds me of the recent video on Tod’s Workshop where he and Toby Capwell are looking at a rondel dagger with a similar offset between the blade and grip
You will see me testing that very dagger in the next part of that series on Tod's channel LOL
For what it was designed to do, which is open people's arteries up, it does it real well. I had a reproduction that I carried in Iraq. Yeah, they're pretty effective.
I think I'm picking up what you're putting down.... Conveying Personal experience.
'Nuff said I think.
@@jasonjulian1 Funny that I think it,s bullshit.
@@peterchessell28 OK. Good for you I guess?
@@jasonjulian1
Always carry a knife when room-clearing. If someone grabs your gun, stabbing is more effective than punching.
@@camerongunn7906youre cleanind a room badly if somes grabbing your rifle
Wouldnt it be easier to grab your side arm than a knife?
And wtf is your number 2 doing while your mucking around
I picked up one of these a few weeks back, how cool.
ETA Not the nicer version Matt has, but still a Sheffield.
It's nice to stumble across this video I have a World War II Fairbairn Sykes dagger one of my great uncles brought back from Europe, very nice little dagger. It is also a pattern 2 your with brass hilt.
For what it's worth; My uncle fought in WWII, but wouldn't really talk about it.
I acquired what I was assured by the trader was an "original WWII S/F knife and sheath" that looked in "rough" condition, I showed it to my uncle commenting "It must be a fake, there's not even any retention for the blade!"
He said: "No, THAT KNIFE is REAL. It use to have an elastic band for retention. We would cut them off, and use a rubberband to retain the knife. THAT KNIFE wasn't used often, but when it was, you may not have had the luxury of time. So you simply broke the rubberband removing the knife."
Me: "That looks like an good way to lose the knife, to me!"
Him: "I suppose you're right. But I never lost mine. And never knew anyone else who did. But it could happen."
He passed away last December at age 100.
Like you I’ve handled many, many original FS knives, and they almost never sharp. The two I have, one issued to my Grandfather in 1945 and the other found on a beach on D-Day are not sharp, and never sharpened. I keep coming across reviewers who say they should be sharp, but they were not, ever issued sharp. A few were field sharpened, but not issued sharp.
Loose scabbards we’re not uncommon either. The elastic is in about the right place, but yours is a lot better than any issued knives… it was crap. It’s probably why my D-Day example was dropped, probably within moments of its owner having hit the beach. It was also usually brown.
A video comparing my two is available on my channel (both 3rd pattern with genuine WWII provenance), but I’ll not add a link out of politeness. They are far from the only ones I’ve ever handled as I’ve been collecting knives for almost 50 years and am from a military family.
According to Fairbairn himself they were always intended to be user sharpened. Maybe to cut a step out of production or to accomodate user preferences on sharpness and edge angles.
@@wayneholmes637 This is how I think most tool and weapon blades should be sold. A factory bevel, but basically butter knife sharp so the user can sharpen it to their preferences. Honestly if you aren't comfortable with learning to put a good edge on a blade then you should reconsider owning them, it's part of basic maintenance.
I have a Fairbairn Sykes dagger I got a long time ago, don't remember who from. The edges of mine were rather dull as well. The steel is quite hard, I had a heckuva time getting it to take an edge.
Great Review Sir ! Is it possible that the blunt edges are there so that it can be freely shipped to areas that have strict knife laws ? In some places a double edge is taboo whereas a blunt 'letter opener 'can get through customs.
It's the pointy bit knife laws are concerned about, this knife was too pointy.
That was my thought- NY, USA has strict laws about double edged daggers.
I look forward to your reviews! I feel you always give an honest opinion! Thank you.
My original, acquired in the late 60’s, was dull edged, very sharp pointed, with a well fitted scabbard with a snapped leather keeper and a blacked brass/bronze handle and ID stamped guard. I traded it even for a nice M-1 carbine which could be purchased at that time for around $75. Incidentally we used to buy loose .30 cal. surplus ammo for $.02(cents) a round back then.
Wish I had the knife back.
I have three in my collection....two are the second model original....they're pretty hard to come by these days.on the length blade...I've read that 7 inches was preferred as it was needed to penitrate heavy winter clothing and vital organs.
I thought the length was based on it's ability to reach the Subclavical from the base of the neck.
I have a p3 modern reproduction made in sheffield. Im a marine corps veteran and proudly display it next to my ka-bar fighting knife. Thanks for sharing. 😊👍
As a Boy Scout 70 yearsago we all had sheath knives no problems in those days ,one of my mates had one of those on his belt .That one had been used in WW11 Many years later I was given one {still have it} both of them were all black mine is in a leather case also stamped With 'Sheffield 'I don't think any commando would carry anything as shiny as yours.😃
Fairbairn himself recommended having a shiny blade as it induced a more psychological effect on the enemy. As written in his book.
@@mrdarren1045 I thought as it was a knife used by Commandos anything that reflected light would be a no go , chrome or black I would shit myself if confronted by a Commando day or night😁.
@@johnhemming9721 yeah I think that's why they also made the black version..for taking out sentry guards at night etc. And I wouldn't want either of them stuck in my guts either.
Great vid of a great blade. Owing to war time demands and strains it's understandable that there are variations from the original spec on the blade length. Just found your channel and hope to see a review of John Ek's fighting knives as well. I own a No. 3 produced by the last private company, owned by Bob Burlein of Richmond, Virginia, the author of the book on Commando knives. Was fortunate enough to acquire my Ek in 2005, a handful of years prior to Ek being acquired by Ka-Bar.
Ive got my grandfathers Fairbairne knife from his time in Africa, a numbered railroad spike from the Burma Railway and some other neat stuff! One of my favorites is My grandfather had taken a photo of another combatant about 15-20' away half falling but still standing, headless from artillery strike or something. Wish I knew my grandfather better, I remember him as a hard man!
Very informative video! I have long been fascinated with FS but never knew there were 3 patterns. There is something iconic about that piece of sharpen steel!!
There’s a fourth pattern available now (only to serving at the moment) looks very nice too
@@c0l57v49 no way !! Got to check it out
Old video of Fairbairn demonstrating the knife shows him slashing a great deal (can be found on RUclips). My third pattered reproduction is also dull. I hope to see your sharpening of this blade.
Sharpening of the dagger is a personal thing for personal use. The user being a military person who is issued the knife to use on operations
Before the UK Governement made mail order of knives more trouble than it was worth, I used to carry a good variety of Sheffield Knives in stock. In fact I only ever stocked Sheffield blades. Most stock was folding pocket knives, army pattern folding utility knives, skinning blades and so on but I'd always put a Fairbairn-Sykes on the order, one of the cheaper Mk.III types with the cast alloy grips. Whilst many of the Sheffield makers names are owned by one group, it's certainly not the case that they are all made in the same plant going by what I saw. Neither are Fairbairn-Sykes Mk.IIIs sold under different names by different companies all the same as I saw considerable differences in quality, espcially in grip castings, from different suppliers, all made in Sheffield. I still keep some for retail in the shop, there's a Mk.III on the shelf in fact but I must admit I'm due a re-order. Choose carefully, there are many good makers in Sheffield but some are better at certain models than others. I buy from more than one but am selective of which products I have from whom.
This knife came from the Jack Adams factory, a small independent maker. Jack Adams was still making knives in his eighties, I have had a number of blades from the factory, all made to order, I had to wait for them.
I have not had a single problem mail ordering a knife in the last two years.
@@zoiders You haven't been running a mail order business selling knives. It's not viable on a small scale and knives were never our main business,
@@inregionecaecorum yes I've had many knives from Jack Adams. Their F-S are better than those I've had from others. Their website lists Matt's model as £84 though unless I'm missing something. Their "Rabbiter's" knife is very good value and useful. The Dirk blade I was less pleased with. A. Wright are another good maker who produce some great pocket knives and hunting sheath knives. I've been round their factory. Still in the city centre. Other makers are still around some names have been noted previously.
@@TheWirksworthGunroom What did you not like about the dirk blade? I know they come with a threaded rat tail tang welded on which is probably not to everybodies taste but I believe that is the traditional way most are made.
My sample, imported to the US most likely post-war, has the guard at a slight angle to the blade. The guard is stamped Sheffield England on one lobe, on the hand side, and I cannot tell if there are markings on the other lobe. Mine is just under 7 inches, razor sharp. Black blade and grip, which is shaped in rings, rather than knurled.
Matt Easton can you do a sharpening video on how you’re going to put a super sharp edge on that knife?
I was curious how you would do that since it’s completely blunt. Especially for those of us who are interested in maybe getting one but don’t know how to necessarily sharpen that kind of knife ourselves since it’s completely blunt.
On my 3rd pattern I dismantled the knife so that I could use a Lansky sharpening set to get even bevels on the entire blade. For my 2nd pattern I just just a little Fällkniven diamond/ceramic sharpening stone without taking it apart.
@@wayneholmes637 Thanks man, I always wanted one of those knives I thought they looked really cool. It really does suck that they are blunt though.
I bought 3 of these, 1x pattern 2 & 2x pattern 3's, one for myself and the others to my brothers as gifts, just checked mine and its a j. Knowell & sons, and all 3 were blunt even though I ordered sharpened blades.
Personally my all-time favorite knife is the Ka-Bar or the OKC next will probably be a Karambit. However I like double edged daggers but the handle has to be bigger so you can get a quality grip
I do have small hands, but I find smaller grips to be much more secure than bigger grips. If a grip is too thick I can't connect my ring and middle finger to my palm and that space is a weakness in terms of my grip on the weapon breaking.
@@connorperrett9559We all have our own preference & whatever works for you
👍Thank you for a concise and detailed review; very interesting
First off, great review Matt, as usual. I appreciate your expertise, of course, but more important, I am grateful to see your honesty and integrity -- if not your diplomacy lol -- in evaluating the current J. Nowill rendition of a time-honored blade.
I have one of the J. Nowill versions -- mine is a black blade third pattern with a hexagonal nut on the pommel -- a couple of third pattern William Rogers so-called NATO versions and one third pattern of unknown origin that I was gifted in the 1970s; my friend got it "Army surplus" and appears to have gone through hell before someone tried to polish away the oxidization and grime.
The J. Nowill is a complete and utter disappointment. At first I thought I got a cheap clone, but I did buy it online from a reputable dealer and it came with authentic packaging and has the same markings and features as your own. I liken it to a souvenir made for collectors, NEVER intended for combat or anything other than fondling and hanging on a wall. Like yours the profile taper of my J. Nowill is far more acute any authentic F-S blades I've seen in my travels, the edge is duller than a typical broadcast television comedy and IMHO the quality of the steel does not inspire confidence; true, it rings when tapped on a hard surface, but it sound tinny and toylike. True, it does flex some, but not in a way that inspires confidence. I've not bothered to sharpen it and I am curious as to your thoughts when you do sharpen yours. I wager the steel will not hold an edge, but I am a prejudiced old man. lol
Also, that hexagonal nut pommel offends mine eyes. At least yours has a more traditional round nut.
In contrast, my two William Rogers and my ancient unknown reek of what we Yanks call "GI quality." They feel like something that we would have been issued in the service, the blade profiles are more robust and the steel seems akin to what we have on our Ka-Bars and other government issue blades. Each has been sharpened -- the two William Rogers have what looks to be a factory ground edge, in fact -- and while not razor, hair shaving sharp, they will cut. Compared to the fragile needle-tip point of the J. Nowill, the William Rogers are again, more robust while retaining the ability to pierce leather and meat, no problem.
Methinks my 1970s era knife is also a William Rogers, but I can't say for sure. As I said, the finish has been polished off and evidence of corrsion and wear are evident. Except for that it looks and feels like a solid military issue weapon, the profile is spot on and the quality of the blade is excellent, even with the blemishes and wear.
The pommels on my three non-J. Nowills are of the traditional round design. And while they will flex and return to true, it takes great effort and makes me think they would do well should they encounter the use and abuse common in military life. Yay me.
My impression of the J. Nowill sheath echoes your own. It is, as we Yanks say, a piece of crap. Again, it looks like something you'd buy in a gift shop for your uncle who never served but loves collecting cheap military junk. The other three I have -- even the old "patina'd" dagger -- have GI quality sheaths. Nowadays we'd be better suited with kydex, perhaps, but that's another story for another day.
Of my modest collection of F-S blades, I would have gladly taken either of the William Rogers -- and yes, even the old unknown origin knife -- with me on deployment. The J. Nowill looks to me more suitable as a gift knife, one that would be more at home on a plaque to be presented upon someone's retirement or other ceremony. True, it can be a lethal weapon -- apologies to Mel Gibson and Danny Glover -- but so can a broken beer bottle. Or even an unbroken beer bottle.
As you can surmise, I'm not particularly happy with my J. Nowill and it's in my box of "for sale or trade" knives.
I suspect J. Nowill won't make any substantial changes toward increasing the lethality and quality of the blade as they sell as many of this one as they can make. Authenticity, and real world "battle ready" blades are a unique niche. Even here in the states, most "collectors" collect crap. I've military friends who don't know better. Every now and again, though, the real thing rears its precious head and I regain a little bit of hope.
Again, thank you for shining a light on one of my favorite knives. I look forward to your continued studies and videos regarding Messrs. Fairbairn and Sykes. While their teaching may seem old-fashioned to some, their warrior spirit and philosophies were needed in a world at war. Like other "antiquated" warriors, they have much to offer us know-it-alls in these modern times.
Cheers!
In the Vietnam era (yes I am old) I got a lovely FS and a Gerber MkI. Traded the FS off years ago for a MkII. Still have those. Makes me think maybe I should find another FS. Or make one.
I'd lay blame for the dull edge on laws in other countries which don't favor shipping sharp things for one reason or another.
Also, thank you for this video! I was on the fence about buying one and saw mixed reviews.
Yes. I'm sure their legal department feels that if you want it sharp, that's on you. 🙂
I would guess this polished version is intended as a presentation piece and there doesn't need to be sharp. Both of my all blued MOD versions were sharp out of the box, not razor sharp but sharp enough.
I grew up knowing a man that had a V42. He kept it from WWII. He was very nice but at the same time you knew not to disobey him. If he told you to do something you did it.
Perhaps you could do a review of the V42?
One of the reasons the originals are a bit shorter is the tip will break off when you train or use it.
Just a question, could it be blunt because of the laws in GB?
My last comment is I'm so very sorry for the lost of the Queen.
God save the Queen.
Long live the King.
No we are allowed sharp knives
@@jgo5300 😂
My dad found one of these Fairbairn Sykes in the ground a few years ago and has a slightly visible written stamped under the guard ribbed handle no sheath It had a broken tip so I cleaned it up and re-profiled the tip it still has pitting but looks much better than it did and the cross guard is slightly slanted
Digging through some remote areas of my house, I was delighted to find my Wilkinson commando dagger, been so long since I'd seen it I figured it had been stolen. Bought it in Vancouver in the late 60's. What struck me was the heavy handle as per your point. I had put it up unsheathed and I think the sheath has shrunk as it leaves about 3/8" blade exposed.and I'm not going to force it deeper. The sheath has stood up well despite some stitching having let go at the top of the 'belt loop' and no rivets were used. The grip is the ringed style and the blade came with what I always considered a parade grind which sadly I sharpened years ago rather poorly considering my OCD. I received some serious frowning by 'experts' that told me they weren't sharpened as a dull edge left a ragged stab wound and was more difficult to suture what a joke. It's back in my loving care now and I can die a little happier in the knowledge.
Excellent video so far. Not sure if you will cover this, but the 2nd pattern you have is longer than the 3rd pattern and will NOT fit inside of currently issued MTP British military sheaths. But that is a very expensive site to buy one from. I got mine from soldier of fortune, the 3rd was about £50 and the 2nd was about £60-£70. sheffieldknives are a bit pricier than SOF but still cheaper than the site you cited. But as long as people can buy them at a price they're happy to pay, that is good.
My understanding was the weight being in the handle helped psychologically when stabbing to give you confidence especially if you get stuck on a rib for example. The slight curve on a knife edge works the blade into the tissue so an edge on both sides helps cut if you miss the target slightly. For example, when stabbing down just medial to the loop of the first rib from above, an edge on both sides should allow you to cut the subclavian artery, vein and brachial plexus (stopping the weapon arm from moving) and then go on to puncture lung apex and, given the length of the knife, hopefully the aortic arch or heart. This technique can also avoid putting a hole in a uniform or you can hide the hole with the shoulder epaulettes possibly.
"This is really just a specialised shank ... for combat" (M. Eastern, 2022).
Literally just been eyeing one of these, what a fortuitous review
What do you think about the presence of a secondary bevel on knives like this? From looking at the dimensions it seems like they might not be necessary.
Also, as a knife maker, i appreciate the detailed review. it's sharp and it chops stuff is pretty easy to achieve, it's the smaller details that show the skill and care of the maker.
The late Mors Kochanski, who was an expert instructor in survival specializing in the boreal forest did mention seeing a lot of FS knives after the war (along with many surplus KA-BAR knives), and recalled that the FS made a superior fillet knife.
I saw a lot if not every of MK's YT-videos, but I never heard him claim this - can you please tell me your source?
Who ever used a filetting knife will remember, that it was very thin, skinny and flexible to be able to follow the bones - whereas the FS is rather stiff and would certainly need a lot of grinding.
@@mannihh5274 it was in one of several videos he made on the topic of "survival knives". Iirc it is over at the Karamat Wilderness Ways channel.
Edit: possibly this one: ruclips.net/video/nxuBi0Ci1eM/видео.html
@@jakubfabisiak9810 - thanks, that's one of the few I missed. The FS he showed seems to have a faily thin blade, so he might have make it work, but in general FS-knives are thick and stiff with steep angles, which aren't great at filletting.
@@mannihh5274 well, you have to consider that his two main options were Ka-Bar, and FS, so it might be a case of lesser evil. Then again, properly sharpened, FS wouldn't be so bad.
And then there's the legendary clip from the late Stan W Scott: ruclips.net/video/uDGHKyB3T_U/видео.html
@@mannihh5274
Lousy fileting knives indeed.
And for the 'throat cut, taking out sentries'. The boning knife is a better choice.
Slicing edge is what you want there. Not the diamond shape of the F-S.
To each their own ofcourse.
It's classic knife, the F-S. But for some 'tasks' there are better choices.
Some not even looking that 'commando'. Looks aren't everything.
I always heard that the tang was not particularly strong, Is there anyone out there that can direct me to testing? I understand the argument that it was meant for delicate killing, but how delicate?
It's nice to see a thing so fit for purpose.
Hey Matt! I just recieved the Mk 3 Kukhri from Heritage Knives! WOW! The blade has a lovely satin finish and is sharp as a razor, well oiled and the grind seems very durable! The grip is pretty, well made and the end plate is slightly rugged looking but it's just perfect! In all - long heavy and very swingable. Chop-chop! Both forehand and backhand yayy. Now the only problem I have is what to chop... what to do with it LOL. I love it, but of course I can't use it as intended and not as a wood chopper, and not as a bushwhacker... meat bones! Yes, a cooking kukhri! I can do that! Meat, marrow bones, onions, garlic, even turnips! One chop only! Whakka! 😂😂😂 In any case: loads of thanks for the tip and the reviews of Heritage Knives! I sincerely love my Mk 3 already!
What an interesting and informative video this is, I'm very pleased to have found your excellent channel and to have subscribed.
Your FS Dagger is beautiful and very good value, thank you for including the link to the seller.
Just a heads up that third pattern FS knives by Nowill are available from at least a couple of other googleable UK retailers for much less money.
On the 3rd version still being in use. It is by some members of the millitary however they have had to buy them themselves. The Fairbairn Sykes stopped being isued by the MOD in the 1980s
I have a ww2 type 3. The nut on the end could be removed and lead shot added to adjust balance. Also many type 3 knives have a flat filed on the handle. This was to orient in the hand in the dark. For modern use we could use a kydex sheath for fitting on molle packs
Glad you got round to this knife. It's an interesting topic since it is about the only edged weapon apart from the bayonet that any living service person would have any experience of. Interesting too that it is a piece which everyone _thinks_ they understand immediately on seeing it, as you can tell from the comments, but actually have next to no understanding of the subtleties of its design and use. Some points on this first video, and looking forward to the others.
When the USA first copied and issued the FS, they tried to do it on the cheap, giving contracts to the cheapest bidder. Most of their copies were, frankly, pretty crap. Thus Americans tend to think the FS a fragile knife because their own copies were so poorly made . When Britain sold war surplus knives to the USA, they were stamped 'England' so that buyers would know they were the original better quality pieces, and not the second-rate US copies.
Re the blade shape and tip; yes this example is not as full in width behind the point as it might be, judging by issued originals. I think that is what people expect these days, and the manufacturer has probably done this to suit market preference and expectations. Of course, individuals would often alter the extreme point on their knife both to strengthen it and to prevent the rumoured objection that a needle point could get stuck in bone (yuk). Often the method was to put a tiny (2 or 3mm) chisel edge on the extreme point.
The 'wasting' you mention is common and not a problem. By the time such a blade is in that far, the relief will ease further penetration. Some blokes exaggerated it on purpose and for this purpose.
Have to agree that the scabbard is junk, but some time fettling could improve matters mightily.
@ SchollaGladitoria, My Father who was in the Highland Regiment of the British SAS had an original issue Sykes-Fairbairn Dagger and the blade was 6 and 5/8 th's Inches long.
You can get molle camo sheaths for the knife, most end users would look a them or some other form of replacement for the sheath provided.
I have my uncle's 2nd pattern F/S knife made by Wiĺkinson Sword.
He was with 41 RM commando and landed on Sword beach.
When, as a boy I would ask him if he ever had to use it in anger, he would just smile and say that he would tell me one day when I was older.
He never did.
There are a handful of other manufacturers who make FS knives in Sheffield, it would be interesting to find out what the best Sheffield made FS on the market is
For sure I would watch Matt do a video on that :)
Please point me at others available online. I'm certainly happy to consider it.
I have a lovely 1st pattern reproduction. One of my favorite things. Such a singular /purposeful tool.
I've seen it on your Instagram, very nice :-)
@@scholagladiatoria Can bring it over if you like 🙃
Its not for "Knife Fighting" Its for quick and silent and sneaky kills.
exclusively? seems like a miss opportunity.
@@DETHMOKIL Not really, because it was designed that way. Unlike say the USMC Kabar, Combat/Utility knife. The Sykes Fairbairn Dagger was made to kill and thats it really. Not in a face to face fight, but sneaking up on a enemy sentry and taking him down quietly. That's just how it was/is.
I did see instructions where Fairbairn was having the knife going from one hand to the other with thought that it should distract the opponent. Not knowing from where the knife would go at him.
Something along those lines.
Matt, did you know there’s a “new” UK company that makes these and also a “4th Pattern” FS Dagger? The 4th pattern seems to have addressed a lot of the short comings on the previous sheaths. The company has a site called fairbairnsykesdefence but they haven’t been posting much on social media lately so I don’t know how active they are. So far they are restricting sales to military and law enforcement, but what they had been posting looked very nice. However, I haven’t had opportunity to handle one of their blades to see there are similar quality issues.
Also I appreciate your review because I ordered a “Sheffield” made 3rd Pattern FS dagger back in the early 2000s and it had all the same issues so I guess nothing on quality has changed in 20 years. Chipped paint exposing brass on both handle and sheath tip. Edges out of line with hilt. No functional edge. I did sharpen it up but the cutting geometry-even when sharp-is quite poor. Carrying it wasn’t great. Both FS Dagger and Kabar knives are very handle heavy and tend to flop about on belts. Although the sheath wasn’t great, it is completely silent in the draw-no brass snaps or tight leather-on-steel sliding sounds. So the tube of leather and elastic-yes it has problems but given the early 1940’s material technology, it did successfully eliminate noise. Modern synthetic sheaths tend to be made very tight and quite loud when any blade is drawn.
As my late grandfather used to say about a dull knife:
You could ride the rail to London on that and not even scratch your ass.
The balance point that the heavy handle brings furthr back than normal knives, makes the blade way more controlable, way faster, way more accurate too. Those are the most important reasons, that this balance point design offers. Staying more securely in the hand, is something that the guards and handle surface and overall design will offer.
Go Pro
😉😋😁
After watching your video again I have looked at our example. It appears to be a 3rd pattern with the ringed hilt also the scabbard has a thin piece of brown elastic about 1/4 inch wide to hold the knife in and the metal at the bottom is rounded but looks like brass rather than blacked, there are no pieces of leather mid scabbard, (maybe they were removed but to me it doesn't look like they were ever fitted? The knife is also a lot better fit inside the scabbard than your example as you mentioned
I put my leather sheath up and replaced it with a Kydex sheath! Just a note with the kydex it came with a grip that would not let go! I had to modify it by heating it up and adjusting it to the hold I wanted.
Would it be better to just punch a hole in the leather where the elastic is (after removing the elastic) and stick the pommel through it to retain the knife?
That aside. thanks for reviewing it and giving us all those awesome closeups. Somehow I had gotten the idea that the blade had a more square cross section.
On the Sof website, the 3rd pattern FS knife retails at about 50, - 70 with the bright blade - both are down as being made by Nowill & Sons; so I don't know whether the SoF ones are some kind of counterfeit or if Sheffield cutlery are overcharging?
I HAVE A ORIGANAL KNIFE FROM D-DAY CARRIED BY A SOLDIER OF THE 6TH BATTLION PARACHUTE REGIMENT ON D-DAY . , 80 YEARS OLD NOW + .
The few swords and knives I have bought, not that I have a lot, here in the U.S. are pretty dull, even though you can also see where the edge has been ground down slightly. They all have been classified as replicas as well so maybe that is the reason. I mainly suspect it is to protect the manufacturer from lawsuits from people injuring themselves when they handle the blades. They are not really made to be used but just to look at unlike kitchen knives.
I had one in the 1980's I got from the Sussex Armoury. I can confirm there was an offset on the blade with respect to the crossguard. I was told this was to give it lateral strength, so that any perpendicular load did not go through the thinnest point, thus weakening it. ie, it is a bit like sloping armour on a tank. slanting it artificially thickens it with respect to the forces being applied.
I love this. Please make a combat knife series Matt :D
edit: It's really hard to find knowledgable ppl talk about this..
During my time in the military I found a rusted knife of this design while on exercise in West Germany I knew its design and kept it then on leave I decided to leave it in my old bedroom at dad's house. I totally forgot about the knife which I'd taken some time to clean up so it was put in a fitted wardrobe in the top box. Years later after father passing away I returned as my brother prepared the house for sale , while putting plant pots in black bags low and behold then knife again rusted through with its pointy tip gone . No doubt father had found another use for the dagger i guess he'd ran the thin blade around plants dirt and packed roots in the plant pot to free them for planting else where. I'm sure Mr farebarin & Mr sykes hadn't thought of a use for this famous dagger in peace time but idle hands are the devils workshop or in this case fathers workshop saw a use for the thin blade 😇
Would love to see a video from you on sharpening!
Both my Nowill FS knives a MkII & a III came blunt but were easily honed on my butchers steel. Elastic on my MkII scabbard was the same. I also own one from Pooley swords which is engraved with Creasts of the Royal marines. A much better knife and with a hand ground blade but this came very blunt.
Dave.
I went to Sheffield once to audit a place called Independent Forgings. Very historical town.