Excellent video. I had written my mower off, had the same gearbox and clutch.Tried to get new box or parts but told by everyone that it is obsolete and 'no parts available'. I will now go back to it, and do the same clutch modification. This video gives me hope. Thanks a million.
Hi there, It's no problem, if you need any further advice, I'm happy to help. There is another way you can try to resolve the clutch before stripping your gearbox if it's the same issue. Lift the clutch arm/lever of the hexagon spline and turn it further away from the bracket holding the cable. You will need to adjust (remove tension here to allow for the major adjustment) the bracket that holds this cable to make this work. You can reveal the hexagon spine by removing the plate that holds the lever arm tight to the gearbox. As far as am aware, it was a M6 bolt. It will feel much tighter to squeeze the drive hand lever, but it will put more pressure on the clutch basket, getting these friction brass parts of the clutch to engage properly. Don't worry about too much tension on the cable, a spring is on the cable to compensate for this. To make this clear, you want to turn the lever arm one notch clockwise then re-install the lever hold plate. I hope this helps you and others. Kind regards, Jeffrey
Thanx on two fronts . . . . just got the same mower given to me today with a sputter start issue and eventually will end up doing the tranny refurb even if not needed. Secondarily, seems like every younger person I see is ears deep in drug or video gaming and its very reassuring to see mechanical talent. Big up from Canada!
Hi John, Thank you for your kind comment. Sadly, here in my country, I'm disliked by family members and by weird public members because of my knowledge and skills on everything I present here on my channel. The more technical I get, the more hate I get. It's reassuring to see there are genuinely nice people on the other side of the World willing to give praise. If you need any help on the clutch or the gearbox, just give me a we message I will do my best. Also, look at past info I give to others on initial clutch adjustments. The hexagon level reajustent is a great starter point. Thank you again, Jeffrey.
Dude you're amazing, thanks for making this. There are only a couple videos that show the disassembly/reassembly of this transmission and you're the only guy with the stones to do it while sitting on the ground. However, I'm confused now because I wanted to replace the grease but you replaced it with gear oil. Is this a recommended replacement for the grease? It makes sense to use gear oil but I'm concerned it might leak out easier than grease. Also if you can find caster pin covers and your cable is still good, you can get the caster locks working again. I had a bent pin but I was able to bend it straight and clean it up. I don't know where these pin covers are going but half the JS63Cs are missing the covers.
Hi Sir, Thank you for your comment. I used gear oil because it makes more sense. A automotive high speed gearbox uses oil. Therefore I believe a heavy gear oil is suffienct for this slow speed/low load gearbox. I've had no leaks yet, just do what I done. I bought a complete swivel castor housing of eBay are and just used the cover of it. I now have cable ties around both with the screw to stop them vanishing again. Please see my Facebook page to see modifications with the recent electric start 😀. Thank you for subscribing. I believe the gear oil will be much better around the clutch. Thank you, Jeffrey
I’m in the process of doing this job, what gear box oil did you add, shop told me some oil affects the soft metal components. Great step by step, will save my gearbox
Very thorough!
thanks a lot 👍👍👍
No problem 😀, let me know if need any further help on resolving this issue.
Excellent video. I had written my mower off, had the same gearbox and clutch.Tried to get new box or parts but told by everyone that it is obsolete and 'no parts available'.
I will now go back to it, and do the same clutch modification. This video gives me hope. Thanks a million.
Hi there,
It's no problem, if you need any further advice, I'm happy to help. There is another way you can try to resolve the clutch before stripping your gearbox if it's the same issue. Lift the clutch arm/lever of the hexagon spline and turn it further away from the bracket holding the cable. You will need to adjust (remove tension here to allow for the major adjustment) the bracket that holds this cable to make this work.
You can reveal the hexagon spine by removing the plate that holds the lever arm tight to the gearbox. As far as am aware, it was a M6 bolt. It will feel much tighter to squeeze the drive hand lever, but it will put more pressure on the clutch basket, getting these friction brass parts of the clutch to engage properly. Don't worry about too much tension on the cable, a spring is on the cable to compensate for this.
To make this clear, you want to turn the lever arm one notch clockwise then re-install the lever hold plate.
I hope this helps you and others.
Kind regards,
Jeffrey
@@JeffreyMaster Yes, I had previously thought about that, and wondered if it would be an option. One more trick up my sleeve.
Great tutorial can you do a video for adjusting the hexagon spline please. Thanks Roger
Very helpful, great explanation thanks a million 👍🏻👍🏻
@ronandelaney1 Thank you, no problem anytime ☺️
Great camera work......great description.......fantastically helpful. Thank you.
Hi there,
Thank you, I try :-) and no problem. I'm glad I can help.
Regards, Jeffrey
That's what I call fixing something Great job !!
Hi there,
Thank you for your kind comment. Much appreciated 😀.
Jeffrey
Thanx on two fronts . . . . just got the same mower given to me today with a sputter start issue and eventually will end up doing the tranny refurb even if not needed.
Secondarily, seems like every younger person I see is ears deep in drug or video gaming and its very reassuring to see mechanical talent. Big up from Canada!
Hi John,
Thank you for your kind comment. Sadly, here in my country, I'm disliked by family members and by weird public members because of my knowledge and skills on everything I present here on my channel. The more technical I get, the more hate I get.
It's reassuring to see there are genuinely nice people on the other side of the World willing to give praise.
If you need any help on the clutch or the gearbox, just give me a we message I will do my best. Also, look at past info I give to others on initial clutch adjustments. The hexagon level reajustent is a great starter point.
Thank you again,
Jeffrey.
Dude you're amazing, thanks for making this. There are only a couple videos that show the disassembly/reassembly of this transmission and you're the only guy with the stones to do it while sitting on the ground. However, I'm confused now because I wanted to replace the grease but you replaced it with gear oil. Is this a recommended replacement for the grease? It makes sense to use gear oil but I'm concerned it might leak out easier than grease.
Also if you can find caster pin covers and your cable is still good, you can get the caster locks working again. I had a bent pin but I was able to bend it straight and clean it up. I don't know where these pin covers are going but half the JS63Cs are missing the covers.
Hi Sir,
Thank you for your comment. I used gear oil because it makes more sense. A automotive high speed gearbox uses oil. Therefore I believe a heavy gear oil is suffienct for this slow speed/low load gearbox. I've had no leaks yet, just do what I done.
I bought a complete swivel castor housing of eBay are and just used the cover of it. I now have cable ties around both with the screw to stop them vanishing again. Please see my Facebook page to see modifications with the recent electric start 😀. Thank you for subscribing.
I believe the gear oil will be much better around the clutch.
Thank you, Jeffrey
@@JeffreyMaster Thanks for your rapid reply. I'm going with gear oil. 😎
I’m in the process of doing this job, what gear box oil did you add, shop told me some oil affects the soft metal components. Great step by step, will save my gearbox
Do you have a link for the belt? I cant seem to find it anywhere . Thanks
Hi there, I will look this out for you.
Part number, GC00081. Type this number in Google. That is a genuine belt. I hope this helps.