@@jewelhome1You can get 30' of angle iron out of any bed frame on trash day..... It might not all be straight enough for what you want, but it sure as hell is straight enough to jig a muffler.
Great tip! I have done that on straight sections - the angle iron is nice when there are straight runs because it keeps things straighter than the hose clamp will.
@@TimWelds The fact that you can weld up bends out of all those pie cuts is freaking awesome! I've known a couple of guys that would make 2-stroke expansion chambers that way. _WAY_ more skill than I'll ever have.
2 hose clamps, 4 pieces of 1/8 inch filler rod. Clamp the rod evenly spaced around the end of one tube, slide the other tube in and clamp it. Gives access to a lot more of the joint for welding.
Personally I just use magnets... I have a few magnetic V-Blocks or jig that is machined to 90° like (angle iron) that are about 2"-12" long and all you do is drop them into grove and slide against each other. Never had alignment issues when welding smaller pipes. if welding/brazing shaped pipe or non-metalic pipe I do same as ED B explained... 4 rods and 2 hose clamps
@@nsboost You only use the clamps to hold it in alignment while tacking, then remove them. I don't know about you, but I've never been able to hold precise alignment solely by hand.
Great tip, Tim. That's genius, right there! Another tip, if you're having trouble seeing while welding, especially if you can't get good light on your work, mount a little adjustable LED light to your welding hood with some Velcro.
Hey Tim, this is a great tip. Thanks! My Dad was an auto mechanic in the early part of his career in the Canadian Armed Forces. Growing up in Alberta, he learned how to properly torque parts from an experienced oilfield technician - especially useful for parts that are hard to get at. On a wheel, for instance, the key is not just torquing in a cross pattern, but the gradual application of torque. First the pattern with one third of the spec, then two thirds, then full torque. Dad taught me many things - this one just pops into my head.
I was a mechanic on the log yard equipment at a sawmill in the late 80's. Occasionally we had to take the wheels off of the Letourneau that unloaded logtrucks in one bite. When the nuts on the 33.5x35 wheels needed torqued I asked the service rep how we torqued 2000 ft lbs. He asked "How much you weigh?" When I said 200 lbs he handed me a 10 foot piece of 2" pipe and a SnapOn breaker bar with socket and said "perfect" if you bounce on it twice. 200 lbs x 10 feet = 2000 lbs. Never had a wheel fall off.
Some manufacturers recommend tightening wheels like that, like Mercedes for example. They say to hand tighten all in a star pattern, then 75ftlb, then to spec usually 95-110ftlb depending on the car and wheel. Also good to torque them when the vehicle is still being supported by your lift/jack so it centers on the hub correctly ✌️
Great tip, my Dad taught me to use "angle iron as a saddle" for butt joints of most any diameter pipe. Rest the pipes inside the angle, clamp and tack, turn tack.
I was just about to type out this same technique and thought I'll scroll down first because I couldn't be the only one who thought of this and sure enough I wasn't. DG
When cutting exhaust pipe with a hacksaw or sawzall you can clamp a muffler clamp on the pipe and use the u-bolt portion as a guide to get a straight cut.
I worked for 2 years as a welder in the 1970's. Production welding gets boring real fast. It is a very good skill to have. Early 1980's I went with a friend to one of his co-workers house who was trying to weld on the inside floor of his car, I mentioned that I had been a welder, he stood up, took the helmet & gloves off, gave them to me & said here you do this.
Knew what you were gonna do as soon as the hose clamp came out! Great idea. I can see this being useful for welding many of the same sized tubes for a frame or something, otherwise a piece of angle iron and some straps may be a little quicker. But this is more handy if you don’t have angle iron around!!
I tack weld two pieces of steel to my two hose clamps so I can have a bigger weld area and it also allows me to bend the clamps at angles. Works well also.
When shortening the hose clamp excess, I will mark the length needed with a marker, back the tail out of the clamp, and use a pair of tin snips to set the proper length. After cleaning up the end with a file reassemble the clamp and it's ready to go. Saves the trouble of getting out the Dremel tool.
I love the story about your Dad. This is a great tool and I could have used it literally yesterday when welding a bicycle seat extension post for my kids custom "Tiger Bike". Thanks for all you videos and insights. You have helped me become a better welder and not be afraid to just jump in and learn something new.
I love tips and tricks like this. I find it quickest and easiest to just lay the pipes in piece of angle iron. That lines them up, just hold them in place by hand for the first tack.
I would leave the clamp as is and use the same beginning process to in stall three metal legs around the sturdy piece to do the same thing,square up the 2nd piece to be butt welded,you could even use a 2nd clamp to add additional strength to the piece being added.I a lot to take in with no pic
Using a little bit of trigonometry (triangle math) and a saw where you can adjust the angle you can make a wide range of elbows with different center line radii. Used to do it all the time at work.
Replacing, ball joints in a "A"- frame, while still on car, without a "Press" "The pressed in", take out heating the outside frame up with "Low Heat torch" & tap it out, before installing new "FREEZE " overnight the ball joint in a , ordinary house freezer", Provides .002 " shrink, by heating frame, that provides .002" expand. ball joint just drops in, hold bottom in place though, "Lower".
I love it! I'm gonna download this! Thanks for the tip. I suppose, with those pie cuts, the hose clamp will help greatly if you have to rotate the pieces so that the oval shapes of the ends are at 90 degrees to each other so that they don't match up exactly. The hose clamp will pull them in line, deforming each just a little, so that they do match up and you can weld them. It's brilliant!
When you cut the tail off, cutting it back at a 45 on each side will not only make it much easier to get started again, it will also not be so likely to snag things (like your sleeve or flesh)
@@TimWelds Thank you for all you share. I'm really glad I found your channel. It's a nice change from most of the other welding channels I find on RUclips. With your calm demeanor and concise explanations you make a great teacher
A former work buddy told me a welder's trick for welding a gas tank. He had gone to several welders who refused to do it. Finally some old codger agreed. The trick was to fill the tank with water.
That’s a terrible idea. On a metal tank you would drain it of fuel and then ventilate it until dry. You then fill the tank with nitrogen and weld. That water myth will get someone killed.
@@joeshumo9457 Actually he just didn't quite finish. After the tank is filled, and all the lighter volatile gasoline components float up and out, you drain everything back out leaving nothing but air. No one is going to die.
A good old school technique that still works. These days, magnet holders especially neodymium magnets have taken the need for that away, however, only for ferrous metals. It is still useful for non-ferrous welding like of course for aluminum pipe, but this is a low budget and cost-effective way of getting things done. Great share.
If you have a piece (straight) that either needs to be stronger or is at risk of damage from rocks, rust, whatever, then you can do the following: 1. Before bending pipes etc, if possible, cut a piece of the same size pipe to cover the risky area. 2. Slit it end to end 3. Pry it open a touch and slide it onto the part needing protection 4.Weld the slit, then weld one end into place solidly. Whether you weld the second end is up to you but it is possible that the heating of the inner pipe will happen faster than the outer and you may create stresses. I don't think it's a huge issue but it's possible (depends on several variables). If you have a situation where you cannot slide the pipe on in step one, then you can either open it far enough to slip over and squeeze it back down (hose clamps or even C clamps) or slit it on opposite sides and weld back together. There you have it. Quick and effective protection that can make a risky piece last much longer.
I was taught to do this with copper pipe . Slit the pipe lengthwise and then flatten the two sections use a bolt to form a clamp and drill holes for the spot welds. Also you can make some copper backing spoons for filling holes in sheet metal while you’re at it. The copper won’t stick to the welds and can be used indefinitely.
Not a welding tip but an automotive repair tip. When installing new spark plugs in vehicles with hard to reach to reach areas, attach a length of 3/8ths hose to an extension on a drill. Stick the plug into the hose, then the hole it goes into, give it a wiggle, then tighten it till it stops. It gives you an easier time getting it where it needs to be, and prevents crossthreading. You can then torque them down afterwards.
I've used a couple of that type of clamp spaced closely together (the kerf thickness plus a smidge) on large PVC pipe in the wild so that I could get a square cut with hand tools.
When welding two pieces of thin pipe together that both have straight “even” (not angled) cuts, one doesn’t have to go through all that. Just use a piece of angle iron and lay both pieces of pipe “end to end” in the groove on the angle iron. Then quickly spot weld away. Easy.
Nice! I know it's not the main thing a but only make an angled cut on one side of any piece that joins with straight tube. The angled cuts make an oval that won't fit that tube, but will fit the intermediate pieces. Sorry, I know there's only so much you want to put in. Great channel. such well thought out tuition.
The wider clamps are good for piston ring compression. Installer tool. Used one for my Harley engine rebuild still running after 20 years . You can also combine them to make a large hose clamp
Until you inherit a box of hose clamps from a refrigeration guru and discover how many different styles of worm gear cuts have been used over the years. Happened just the other day
Well, I haven't been around many other experienced Welders and all my tips mostly come from RUclips. There are a few small, but very unique and interesting RUclips welding channels from overseas, like Elosta, MD Khan and Weld D, who all have some good tricks. It's nice to watch some foreign vids and see some of the cool tricks they know vs. us. They use things in welding people over here may not have thought of (purely out of necessity, I'm sure, as it is the mother of invention). I've certainly seen things on their channels, that exist on no other American or European welding channels, period. The East Indians, Middle Easterners and Asians, all have some very cool welding tricks. Certainly something a new Welder (and even experienced ones) should binge watch, you WILL learn something, I can practically guarantee it. This is some truly unique stuff. None of them talk, so there's no translation needed. They all follow a formula of hand and sign signals. They will show the typical way, or wrong way someone might do it, sometimes two ways and shake their finger "no". Then show you the right approach and give a thumbs up and then perform it. So everything in them is universal, just watch and learn. And for small foreign channels they are a pleasure to watch, the camera work is typically pretty good, they show you different angles to give you a true idea of their results and approach. They are pretty well done, the production value is better than you might expect.
Oh boy! I could've used that idea back when I did my first S-10 V8 conversion and built my own headers. This was before they had kits for doing the conversion.
I make my taking bands out of tube. Firstly I drill hole around the circumference. Then I weld 2 pieces of 10mm rod 10-15mm apart and cut the tube along the rod and use a c grip clamp to hold it tight on the pipe/ tube. Also I cut little notches out of one side so I’m able to use it to hold bends or reducers with no straight
Hey Tim... any suggestion for a mini portable welding machine for very detailed metal welding i mean for very small elements like the head of a screw or a metal glass skeleton etc ?
Can you do a video on welding symbols and blueprints, etc? I'm currently enrolled in a blueprint class for my welding degree and would find in your insight very helpful!
Nice tip👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 I suggest that if you are going to angle grind, 1st when you get the fit correct mark it then screw it right in. That way you can get a clean close clean cut.
Great tip! Big win for your dad. Hopefully present and future dad’s actually take the time to pass on knowledge! Im a big advocate for two parent households, or at least having a strong reliable male role model because of all the kids and ex-kids that didn’t have a dad like yours!
I ofren make alight bends by cutting a wedge out, but i dont cut all the way through. I leave a little bit on the far side, then bend the pipe together and tack it.
One of the few tips my dad ever gave me was if you have to put a nail in the end of a piece of wood and are worried about the wood splitting you blunt the tip of the nail with your hammer. I don't quite know why but it does seem to help.
goldsmith / master jeweler here: i freehand soldering gold tubing or lay it on cigarette black coarse sand. love your dad's method, great tip *i Like, OLE'!* 💃
Great tip, going to make one An FYI: Take a short piece of wooden broom handle and put one end in your ear and probe an engine with the other end while running to hear every tappet or to locate a tick or knock
A lot of times you can use angle iron the V groove to line up pipe an hold it straight while tacking or weld a pipe coupling on the V groove of the angle iron and use the C clamp to hold the pipe straight with the screw end of the C clamp going in the end of the pipe coupling you welded on the angle iron
if your file gets clogged up with aluminum, you can cut a slit, and flatten a piece of copper pipe into a chisel type shape and use the flat end to get the aluminum out real well
In larger pipes brake shoes you make to fit inside the pipe with a long hydraulic hose to the hand pump. This will clamp tight to the inside. When finished welding you can release the pressure and pull out the shoes.
Another alternative to clamping loose rods between hose clamps & tubing / pipes... To preset clamps for diameter(s): Mark & drill 1/8" holes instead of cutting rungs out. Get a speed clamp [a large hose clamp, typically used for saddle tapping a sewer line (typically 36" long) or other desired strapping]. Cut this 4th clamp to desired standoff, drill ends, & pop rivet together (from inside out)...
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You can learn to weld. I'll show you exactly what to do in my affordable online welding courses at courses.timwelds.com.
I've always used a piece of angle iron to keep my tubing aligned....
This is a great trip Tim! Thanks for sharing these nuggets of knowledge.
Like V blocks in machining. But I’m not welding on my V blocks!
@@jewelhome1You can get 30' of angle iron out of any bed frame on trash day.....
It might not all be straight enough for what you want, but it sure as hell is straight enough to jig a muffler.
Great tip! I have done that on straight sections - the angle iron is nice when there are straight runs because it keeps things straighter than the hose clamp will.
@@TimWelds The fact that you can weld up bends out of all those pie cuts is freaking awesome!
I've known a couple of guys that would make 2-stroke expansion chambers that way.
_WAY_ more skill than I'll ever have.
great tip mate . ill definitely use it in the future
2 hose clamps, 4 pieces of 1/8 inch filler rod. Clamp the rod evenly spaced around the end of one tube, slide the other tube in and clamp it. Gives access to a lot more of the joint for welding.
I just pinch it with my fingers....
Personally I just use magnets... I have a few magnetic V-Blocks or jig that is machined to 90° like (angle iron) that are about 2"-12" long and all you do is drop them into grove and slide against each other. Never had alignment issues when welding smaller pipes. if welding/brazing shaped pipe or non-metalic pipe I do same as ED B explained... 4 rods and 2 hose clamps
Or just tack it a few times and finish welding it. People over complicate things
@@nsboost You only use the clamps to hold it in alignment while tacking, then remove them. I don't know about you, but I've never been able to hold precise alignment solely by hand.
@@bfflorida2311 Have you ever tried to get a good TIG weld on something held with magnets? What if you're welding stainless that isn't magnetic?
Great tip, Tim. That's genius, right there! Another tip, if you're having trouble seeing while welding, especially if you can't get good light on your work, mount a little adjustable LED light to your welding hood with some Velcro.
Awesome! I’ve seen that done a few times, but never tried it myself. I’ll have to give it a go.
Awwww!! That's genius !! Will get myself a led
Thank you
Or the tiny light could be mounted on the welding gun to point directly at the joint to be done.
Hey Tim, this is a great tip. Thanks!
My Dad was an auto mechanic in the early part of his career in the Canadian Armed Forces. Growing up in Alberta, he learned how to properly torque parts from an experienced oilfield technician - especially useful for parts that are hard to get at. On a wheel, for instance, the key is not just torquing in a cross pattern, but the gradual application of torque. First the pattern with one third of the spec, then two thirds, then full torque. Dad taught me many things - this one just pops into my head.
So my years of being a perfectionist and checking my lugs 3-4x was actually worth it?! Awesome.
I was a mechanic on the log yard equipment at a sawmill in the late 80's. Occasionally we had to take the wheels off of the Letourneau that unloaded logtrucks in one bite. When the nuts on the 33.5x35 wheels needed torqued I asked the service rep how we torqued 2000 ft lbs. He asked "How much you weigh?" When I said 200 lbs he handed me a 10 foot piece of 2" pipe and a SnapOn breaker bar with socket and said "perfect" if you bounce on it twice. 200 lbs x 10 feet = 2000 lbs. Never had a wheel fall off.
@@tt600pch cool!
Some manufacturers recommend tightening wheels like that, like Mercedes for example. They say to hand tighten all in a star pattern, then 75ftlb, then to spec usually 95-110ftlb depending on the car and wheel. Also good to torque them when the vehicle is still being supported by your lift/jack so it centers on the hub correctly ✌️
Great tip, my Dad taught me to use "angle iron as a saddle" for butt joints of most any diameter pipe. Rest the pipes inside the angle, clamp and tack, turn tack.
I was just about to type out this same technique and thought I'll scroll down first because I couldn't be the only one who thought of this and sure enough I wasn't. DG
I use the same method and it ensures that you have a straight pipe.
When cutting exhaust pipe with a hacksaw or sawzall you can clamp a muffler clamp on the pipe and use the u-bolt portion as a guide to get a straight cut.
Good idea! I like it.
I worked for 2 years as a welder in the 1970's. Production welding gets boring real fast. It is a very good skill to have. Early 1980's I went with a friend to one of his co-workers house who was trying to weld on the inside floor of his car, I mentioned that I had been a welder, he stood up, took the helmet & gloves off, gave them to me & said here you do this.
That happens a lot if people find out you can weld
Great idea for use in places where work-holding is difficult and you need your hands elsewhere, nice!
Thanks Tim! (oh yeah and thanks to your dad)
Your Dad is a genius,,, thanks for the tips,,,,, Simple yet effective
Knew what you were gonna do as soon as the hose clamp came out! Great idea. I can see this being useful for welding many of the same sized tubes for a frame or something, otherwise a piece of angle iron and some straps may be a little quicker. But this is more handy if you don’t have angle iron around!!
I tack weld two pieces of steel to my two hose clamps so I can have a bigger weld area and it also allows me to bend the clamps at angles. Works well also.
Great tip for bends. For straight pipe 3 mini strong magnets work good.
That's what I use I got some ridiculously strong rare earth magnets.. they'll pinch you if you're not careful
You were looking great with the collaboration with Justin this weekend......
When shortening the hose clamp excess, I will mark the length needed with a marker, back the tail out of the clamp, and use a pair of tin snips to set the proper length. After cleaning up the end with a file reassemble the clamp and it's ready to go. Saves the trouble of getting out the Dremel tool.
This trick was the first one I learned when I started stick welding. This brings back fond memories.
Simplicity is the cornerstone of brilliance. This is absolutely brilliant. I just love little tricks like this.
Thank you for sharing this tip. The greatest tricks of the trade hide for years in front of our faces until a wise one shows up and notices.
I love the story about your Dad. This is a great tool and I could have used it literally yesterday when welding a bicycle seat extension post for my kids custom "Tiger Bike". Thanks for all you videos and insights. You have helped me become a better welder and not be afraid to just jump in and learn something new.
Thanks! So glad to hear that!
I love tips and tricks like this. I find it quickest and easiest to just lay the pipes in piece of angle iron. That lines them up, just hold them in place by hand for the first tack.
That won't work for pieces that can't lay flat. For example near a bend or flange.
I would leave the clamp as is and use the same beginning process to in stall three metal legs around the sturdy piece to do the same thing,square up the 2nd piece to be butt welded,you could even use a 2nd clamp to add additional strength to the piece being added.I a lot to take in with no pic
Using a little bit of trigonometry (triangle math) and a saw where you can adjust the angle you can make a wide range of elbows with different center line radii. Used to do it all the time at work.
Replacing, ball joints in a "A"- frame, while still on car, without a "Press" "The pressed in", take out heating the outside frame up with "Low Heat torch" & tap it out, before installing new "FREEZE " overnight the ball joint in a , ordinary house freezer", Provides .002 " shrink, by heating frame, that provides .002" expand. ball joint just drops in, hold bottom in place though, "Lower".
Thanks for the heads up, Tim if only I found this 30 years sooner.
Play safe from Elliot Lake Ontario, Canada
That's a fantastic tip little tricks like this are so helpfull thanks Dale
Incredible tutorial. Always like to learn something new. Many thanks.
I love it! I'm gonna download this! Thanks for the tip. I suppose, with those pie cuts, the hose clamp will help greatly if you have to rotate the pieces so that the oval shapes of the ends are at 90 degrees to each other so that they don't match up exactly. The hose clamp will pull them in line, deforming each just a little, so that they do match up and you can weld them. It's brilliant!
When you cut the tail off, cutting it back at a 45 on each side will not only make it much easier to get started again, it will also not be so likely to snag things (like your sleeve or flesh)
Great tip! Thanks!
@@TimWelds Thank you for all you share. I'm really glad I found your channel.
It's a nice change from most of the other welding channels I find on RUclips.
With your calm demeanor and concise explanations you make a great teacher
Another great idea, keep them coming.
Superb Tip - Keep'em coming...
Thank you very much for your wisdom!
Best wishes from the UK!!
Thanks so much!
Great hint mate. Thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
As a beginning welder thanks for sharing a great idea, have subscribed
Super idea. one up would be using a Quick disconnect style worm gear clamps. Also using the clamps as a cutting and marking aid.
That’s a great idea! I’ll have to look into it.
I use hose clamps to hold sensor bungs in place while I tack them. Also works OK for BOV flanges if they're short and stable enough.
A former work buddy told me a welder's trick for welding a gas tank. He had gone to several welders who refused to do it. Finally some old codger agreed. The trick was to fill the tank with water.
That’s a terrible idea.
On a metal tank you would drain it of fuel and then ventilate it until dry. You then fill the tank with nitrogen and weld.
That water myth will get someone killed.
@@joeshumo9457 Actually he just didn't quite finish. After the tank is filled, and all the lighter volatile gasoline components float up and out, you drain everything back out leaving nothing but air. No one is going to die.
👍Good tip. Simple, quick and looks like very good alignment between the two pipes.
That is so genius! I'm definitely going to share this with my shop teacher
That video and info will definately come in handy. Thanks for sharing this tip!
A good old school technique that still works. These days, magnet holders especially neodymium magnets have taken the need for that away, however, only for ferrous metals. It is still useful for non-ferrous welding like of course for aluminum pipe, but this is a low budget and cost-effective way of getting things done. Great share.
If you have a piece (straight) that either needs to be stronger or is at risk of damage from rocks, rust, whatever, then you can do the following:
1. Before bending pipes etc, if possible, cut a piece of the same size pipe to cover the risky area.
2. Slit it end to end
3. Pry it open a touch and slide it onto the part needing protection
4.Weld the slit, then weld one end into place solidly. Whether you weld the second end is up to you but it is possible that the heating of the inner pipe will happen faster than the outer and you may create stresses. I don't think it's a huge issue but it's possible (depends on several variables).
If you have a situation where you cannot slide the pipe on in step one, then you can either open it far enough to slip over and squeeze it back down (hose clamps or even C clamps) or slit it on opposite sides and weld back together.
There you have it. Quick and effective protection that can make a risky piece last much longer.
I was taught to do this with copper pipe .
Slit the pipe lengthwise and then flatten the two sections use a bolt to form a clamp and drill holes for the spot welds.
Also you can make some copper backing spoons for filling holes in sheet metal while you’re at it.
The copper won’t stick to the welds and can be used indefinitely.
Not a welding tip but an automotive repair tip. When installing new spark plugs in vehicles with hard to reach to reach areas, attach a length of 3/8ths hose to an extension on a drill. Stick the plug into the hose, then the hole it goes into, give it a wiggle, then tighten it till it stops. It gives you an easier time getting it where it needs to be, and prevents crossthreading. You can then torque them down afterwards.
Great tip! Beefier Dremel cut off discs with fiber reinforcement are available, they work much better and last longer.
Thanks!
@@TimWelds you can stack 2 of the lesser ones also,that can help.
Great idea. Just hope I can remember it now .......
I've used a couple of that type of clamp spaced closely together (the kerf thickness plus a smidge) on large PVC pipe in the wild so that I could get a square cut with hand tools.
That’s a great little tip thanks for sharing
Simple yet brilliant. What an elegant solution. 😎👍🏻
Thank your dad for all of us.
When welding two pieces of thin pipe together that both have straight “even” (not angled) cuts, one doesn’t have to go through all that. Just use a piece of angle iron and lay both pieces of pipe “end to end” in the groove on the angle iron. Then quickly spot weld away. Easy.
Good tip, I’ll keep that in mind
Nice! I know it's not the main thing a but only make an angled cut on one side of any piece that joins with straight tube. The angled cuts make an oval that won't fit that tube, but will fit the intermediate pieces. Sorry, I know there's only so much you want to put in. Great channel. such well thought out tuition.
Thanks!
I build a lot of tube railings. I have a couple of C-clamps with angle welded to both faces. They're fast and accurate.
The wider clamps are good for piston ring compression. Installer tool. Used one for my Harley engine rebuild still running after 20 years . You can also combine them to make a large hose clamp
Until you inherit a box of hose clamps from a refrigeration guru and discover how many different styles of worm gear cuts have been used over the years. Happened just the other day
Tips from our dads are always the best
Very clever, I enjoy these types of tips as they are useful for many things not just for welding, Cheers
Well, I haven't been around many other experienced Welders and all my tips mostly come from RUclips. There are a few small, but very unique and interesting RUclips welding channels from overseas, like Elosta, MD Khan and Weld D, who all have some good tricks. It's nice to watch some foreign vids and see some of the cool tricks they know vs. us. They use things in welding people over here may not have thought of (purely out of necessity, I'm sure, as it is the mother of invention). I've certainly seen things on their channels, that exist on no other American or European welding channels, period. The East Indians, Middle Easterners and Asians, all have some very cool welding tricks. Certainly something a new Welder (and even experienced ones) should binge watch, you WILL learn something, I can practically guarantee it. This is some truly unique stuff.
None of them talk, so there's no translation needed. They all follow a formula of hand and sign signals. They will show the typical way, or wrong way someone might do it, sometimes two ways and shake their finger "no". Then show you the right approach and give a thumbs up and then perform it. So everything in them is universal, just watch and learn. And for small foreign channels they are a pleasure to watch, the camera work is typically pretty good, they show you different angles to give you a true idea of their results and approach. They are pretty well done, the production value is better than you might expect.
That’s pretty slick. I’m not a welder but I’m looking to into it. Not for employment but for hobby level.
Pretty cool Lil trick. I'll be sure to use it at some point for sure..
Oh boy! I could've used that idea back when I did my first S-10 V8 conversion and built my own headers. This was before they had kits for doing the conversion.
thanks for the tip, your dad seems pretty savvy!... 👍
I make my taking bands out of tube. Firstly I drill hole around the circumference. Then I weld 2 pieces of 10mm rod 10-15mm apart and cut the tube along the rod and use a c grip clamp to hold it tight on the pipe/ tube. Also I cut little notches out of one side so I’m able to use it to hold bends or reducers with no straight
This is a good tip amigo..when you least expect it you need to do something like this..thanks for sharing...learned something new🙂👍👍
Awesome little trick with the hose clamp.
Thank you so much!
Thats a very cool and cheap little "super tool". Thanks for sharing
Know is a great thing ! Thanks for passing this on!
Great tip! I'll get on a few of these to use on my fence tubing extensions.
Hey Tim... any suggestion for a mini portable welding machine for very detailed metal welding i mean for very small elements like the head of a screw or a metal glass skeleton etc ?
Can you do a video on welding symbols and blueprints, etc? I'm currently enrolled in a blueprint class for my welding degree and would find in your insight very helpful!
That is an AWESOME tip! Thanks for sharing.
I did this same thing. But i used an soild exhaust clamp.
Nice tip for pie cuts. Ill be trying it out. Thanks 😊
Those pie slice bends are perfect for tacking on the inside.
Good presentation and great information!! Yea! I’ve learned something that I’ll keep in mind for future projects!! Thank You.
Nice tip well done thanks to you & your dad for sharing
Nice tip👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I suggest that if you are going to angle grind, 1st when you get the fit correct mark it then screw it right in. That way you can get a clean close clean cut.
You can also use 3 pieces of small angle iron with 2 hose clamp's for straight pieces of pipe. Maybe shorter pieces for the pie cuts.
did the same thing with pie cut on a exhaust header but used tape to hold one piece at a time to tack it...
Useful tips, thanks to your dad.
Great vid Tim... I would have never have thought of any of these tips.
Dang that's so cool. Thank you for sharing. I really appreciate it.
Great tip! Big win for your dad. Hopefully present and future dad’s actually take the time to pass on knowledge! Im a big advocate for two parent households, or at least having a strong reliable male role model because of all the kids and ex-kids that didn’t have a dad like yours!
Great idea! One of those good to have in the back of your mind when the time comes to need it. Thanks!
I ofren make alight bends by cutting a wedge out, but i dont cut all the way through. I leave a little bit on the far side, then bend the pipe together and tack it.
One of the few tips my dad ever gave me was if you have to put a nail in the end of a piece of wood and are worried about the wood splitting you blunt the tip of the nail with your hammer. I don't quite know why but it does seem to help.
goldsmith / master jeweler here: i freehand soldering gold tubing or lay it on cigarette black coarse sand. love your dad's method, great tip *i Like, OLE'!* 💃
That's a really neat idea Tim! 😎
Genius…, absolute genius on the hose clamp (window) welding…. Thank you to dad.
Thank you Tim.
Thanks a ton! It’s simple, but has come in handy for me from time to time.
Great tip, going to make one
An FYI: Take a short piece of wooden broom handle and put one end in your ear and probe an engine with the other end while running to hear every tappet or to locate a tick or knock
Or a long screw driver or prettymuch anything long enough but whats that got to do with welding tips? Lol!
This is a great tip! And, a few of these in different sizes don’t take up much room at all…unlike clamps and jigs
This was a nifty little trick I will keep in mind. Thanks :)
A lot of times you can use angle iron the V groove to line up pipe an hold it straight while tacking or weld a pipe coupling on the V groove of the angle iron and use the C clamp to hold the pipe straight with the screw end of the C clamp going in the end of the pipe coupling you welded on the angle iron
I actually needed this last week! Agh! Wish I had seen it, my welded rod would look much cleaner!
Cool clamp idea, I made my own turbo setup using TIG and pie cuts, that idea would have come in quite handy.
Awesome tip. I hope I remember this in the future
Thanks a ton!
if your file gets clogged up with aluminum, you can cut a slit, and flatten a piece of copper pipe into a chisel type shape and use the flat end to get the aluminum out real well
Ingenious idea and so simple.
Just what I needed for a project that's coming up! Thanks Tim
Awesome!
In larger pipes brake shoes you make to fit inside the pipe with a long hydraulic hose to the hand pump.
This will clamp tight to the inside. When finished welding you can release the pressure and pull out the shoes.
Another alternative to clamping
loose rods between hose clamps
& tubing / pipes...
To preset clamps for diameter(s):
Mark & drill 1/8" holes instead of
cutting rungs out. Get a speed
clamp [a large hose clamp,
typically used for saddle tapping
a sewer line (typically 36" long)
or other desired strapping].
Cut this 4th clamp to desired
standoff, drill ends, & pop rivet
together (from inside out)...
What a great useful tip and one that I need to save for the future. This one is a keeper~! 👍👍✌
Where do you put your welding rods for a person can get to like storages no welding table or cart