I own an insulation company- we do all kinds. Spray is by far the best R value. Provides vapor barrier, rodents will not nest in it like they do fiberglass. It resists mold and also adds up to 3x the structural integrity of standard stick framing. It’s a great sound dampener and you can apply any type of fire retardant over it with a spray system to make it surpass any other insulation. However, it’s very expensive. The negatives are very little. Our margin is the least on spray and most on fiber. Rock is somewhere between. Rock is becoming by far the most popular but my own home is sprayed and I spray my parents and siblings whenever they do a remodel because that’s what I recommend to anyone.
No, it isn’t. Current foams all have new blowing agents that are no lo me er like foams of 25 years ago. The myth of the off gassing and foam being toxic is simply not true. I wouldn’t put it in my own house, with my kids if that was the case. This is a lie you have heard repeated from somewhere else. Just like the UK thing of mortgages being declined. Easily debunked.
Depends, I’m not sure the sq footage of the house, and that roof adds a ton of “sets” to the equation. He mentions 3 inches deep, but is he doing under the house as well, around hvac systems to insulate those also? Is he adding fire retardant or anything else. If I had to throw a number out I’d say between 8-11k but that’s a guess honestly.
A frames are notoriously hard to heat no matter how well insulated. A large portion on the house is not insulated because of the window wall. Along with a open design plan and high catherdral ceilings, it's an enormous volume of space to heat and because of the structural constraint of a cathedral ceiling with no attic space you weren't able to run heating ducks to the atrium which is half the house. I might of missed it, but I didn't see any insulating done on the foundation and floor. This is just as important as the ceiling because of radiant temperature - a cold floor in contact with everything in the house is an incredible amount of heat loss. To heat an A frame more efficiently you would need an insulated assessable crawl space to run the heating ducks under the floor or better yet a heated floor. Heating the air costs more than heating the thermal mass of the floor. I truly admire your tenacity and I look forward to seeing how you navigate the rest of this build. It's an incredible undertaking.
I think he said in a previous video he plans to put radiant floor heating in the main part of the house downstairs. That would solve the problem you're talking about.
Woah, I followed your journey on the farmhouse renovation on my old tab. Fancy seeing you here, hope you will take another project on renovating cause your editing is quite entertaining 😂
Under tile radiant floor heating isn't enough to heat a space I think the O.P. was referring to a large inslab heating system with PEX and water/ glycol heaters. Which is way more efficient and would work extremely well in maintaining a reasonable temperature zone.
I also was a big fan of your videos and your channel was the first one that I followed and waited for each update. It was the first channel that showed me youtube could be a main source of entertainment not just a one off here and there when I wanted to watch an old movie clip haha. Hope the family is well and life is treating you the same.
Around 17:00 you talk about the paper facing being a vapor barrier. The facing provides just a little more vapor resistance than the unfaced, but is not suitable to replace an actual vapor barrier. A perm rating of 10 or greater is considered permeable and you need a rating of .1 or less to be considered a vapor barrier. The paper facing has a rating of 1, so it’s an improvement over nothing, but not enough on its own. The facing is there to make installation easier so you can staple the paper tabs to the studs to keep the batting from falling down.
Oh man, I'm worried about the adhesion and longevity of this job (not a pro, just a building science-inclined DIYer) Those temperature requirements aren't vague suggestions, they're hard science. I can see you've got a heater in there, so you can at least (hopefully) get the foam close to the heater and get its temp up. But I can also see breath misting, which means I'm guessing it's nowhere close to the recommended temp, and it's applying to a cold substrate, which is going to drop the temperature even more. I'm not saying it's doomed, I just hope it turns out alright, since that's stacking the deck against yourself. Pros can sometimes spray in colder temps -- they have ways to cheat the temperature requirements, and should know when they're not going to get a good result -- but you don't have that option with froth packs. What's far more inexcusable (imo) is the lack of proper respiratory safety equipment during application (or even a callout) -- these are the 'health concerns' that just got completely glossed over with a shrug because what sounded like the first result from Google didn't list them -- the product manual you got with the kit should. There's a time and a place for the safety police -- this is the time, this is the place. NIOSH-compliant VOC-rated cartridge + prefilter on a half-mask respirator + goggles at a *minimum*. Full-face would be better to keep the vapors away from your eyes as well. I'm fairly certain those disposable masks aren't VOC-rated, and even if they are they're not sealing enough to protect you properly. If you want to take your personal safety into your own hands and skip it, that's fine... it should at least be a callout. Also worth noting that closed cell spray foam is only a full vapor barrier at a certain thickness per manufacturer spec (usually 1.5-2"). Any less than this, and it's *not* vapor impermeable. The fact that it's *just* coming up to the edge of the flanges on the I-joists suggests this is, at best, *right* at 1.5". You really want to *cover* those flanges (not just to ensure you have the proper thickness to achieve a vapor barrier) but so that you thermally break them from the outside, since they're a solid connection to your exterior sheathing. Also worth noting, especially in a roof assembly, that you need to have *enough* R value that you don't end up with your cold condensing surface be the *inside* face of the foam, potentially causing moisture to collect in your walls in quantities that can't dry to the inside. Don't get me wrong. CCSF is an *amazing* product -- unmatched R-value, air sealing, even some structural fringe benefits. It can be applied properly in certain places where blown-in, rigid, or batt insulation are difficult to install properly. However, it's not just some magic 'energy-efficiency paint' that you can slap on and call it good. It's got a much higher barrier to install properly, and if not installed properly, with the proper considerations for what it's doing to your building assembly, it can be at best a waste of money, and at worst perpetuate long-term damage that is very expensive to remedy. Bottom line, I hope it works out for you.
You can achieve 3” rigid foam with two layers of 1 1/5”. Significantly cheaper. Next time try continuous exterior with the 4x8 sheets. Tons of other benefits like reduced thermal bridging, air sealing if you tape seams etc
the best tip i've ever gotten for spray foam is it sprays better when its warmed up, and it also sticks to a warm surface better than a cold or freezing surface
Yay, I just wanted to say I'm happy that this doesn't have an overly-dramatic title or video. Also, respect for doing all that work. I would not want to have to be spray-foaming any house period, let alone an A-frame.
I watch John Malecki too!! Knew exactly who's shop glasses those where. Lol, hopefully, they come clean. Alex, be proud of yourself! You've gotten so much work done and it's looking good!! Take care!
you're doing an amazing job on your own keep up the good work. But I would recommend to tape all the seams to ensure no thermal transfer as cold on hot you have moisture and then mold
Hey Alex. Progress looks great on the build! You mentioned running lights or fans off the ridge beam but don’t want exposed conduit. You should run electrical on it and then wrap the whole beam like a faux beam. It would be a lot of work, but that would give you the ability to put lights and fans and have a wood beam look
I hope you install some good ceiling fans. They will help so much with moving heat and air around with those high ceilings!! Every space with high ceilings needs a ceiling fan.
Another thing that can be done for sound dampening/noise cancellation is to do a double layer of drywall. I don't remember how much of a difference it makes but it does help a bit.
It’s not that I don’t like spray foam since it does do a really good job of insulating. It’s just that it can also cause unknown potential problems later on that we don’t really have any reliable data on. I prefer to use mineral wool.
I personally would have doubled 1.5" rigid foam. It's replaceable. Spray foam can absorb and hold water. Ultimately, it causes the surrounding wood to rot. A major issue that many people have unfortunately experienced.
The more you spray the more the cannisters/bottles cool down lowering the pressure in them. If you had set that heater pointing at the bottles (safe distance) they would have heated and you would have had full pressure.
(A curious DIYer here) Why is your vapor barrier on the inside of the insulation in some places (plastic sheeting) and outside (spray foam) in other places? I know you’re following the drawn plans, but I’d love to know why that is.
I mean it makes total sense that the spray foam needs to be adequately warm. Its a two part reaction. If its too cold it wont cure properly, or at all.
Been watching your videos for a while now, but first time leaving a comment. Once i saw the Seahawks sweatshirt had to say GO HAWKS!!! Thats all, much love and God Bless from Texas.
Holy cow!!! That's expensive. Sorry major sticker shock. I can't imagine how much it would be to hire out because that is a huge undertaking. I just built a home ( Also causing sticker shock) and had the same issues with deliveries. I'm rural and have a 1000 ft long driveway. I've redone the driveway 3 or 4 times now because of heavy trucks. Then, after moving in, I had so many complaints about delivering here and refusal to complete deliveries I had to make a turn around. I love living in the country but it definitely has challenges.
Your pressure is dropping in the tanks because they are getting cold.... get two heating pads and wrap them around the tanks with duct tape then put a bat of insulation around and duct tape that let sit for 30 min and come up to temp....
Good advice. I sometimes put spray cans in warm water to achieve the same thing. Maybe clean the nozzle from time to time. Don’t know if this is crucial when it comes to foam spray guns but when dealing with air brush guns it makes a world of difference.
I’m curious to know how much that would have costed if a company came into spray the parts that you sprayed. Obviously it varies by area but where I am those kits actually end up being a lot more expensive and problematic. Regardless it looks great
Damn dude, how many steps did you take climbing that damn ladder. Buns of steel for sure. But you are sore after doing that. Congrats on getting that done by yourself.
2.5 days to do it yourself. The funny thing is, a professional company could tackle that house in 2.5 hours. But they would have charged you like $10k to do it. Brave of you to do this by yourself. I think it's one of the most ambitious jobs you've ever done.
I dont really know what R-value it is in the sprayfoam and the thinkness of your insulation. But the vapor-barrier should not be further out than 1/3 in the wall at maximum. Otherwise you may have problems with condensation and later on mold.
This is going to be a dumb question, but… if those ceilings are stuffed with insulation and spray foam with no baffles how do you get airflow between the rafters?
Going back in time, wouldn't it have been a LOT easier just to have backed up a trailer to the back of the 18 wheeler and drop the load on it and then back it down to the cabin?
Häuser Deutschland. Österreich der Schweiz und ganz Skandinavien haben osb innen. Dss ist die luftdichte Dampfbremse. Aussen mdf oder tyvek. Wie rückständ baut ihr überhaupt?
And that spray foam! Not even close to 3 inches thick and you could literally see the plywood showing trough on the edges of the rafter bays. Just get it done quick so you can get views. The next guy can deal with it.
Noooooo! @Mr. Build it , you installed the faced insulation incorrectly. No staples are needed, the paper should be facing out & you can use the insulation bars/supports to keep them in place.
If you have ever drove a tractor trailer you would understand. As a professional driver the customer never makes me back or drive into something that I'm not going to get stuck or dangerous. If a tow truck is called it goes on you driving record.
I love how backwards the USA are, using this terrible product in the UK will cause no end of issues. Most mortgage companies will not mortgage a property with this type of installation. Many will force you to remove it and the same companies that promote this also remove it 😂
It's not preferred in the USA anymore either. I think that's why he did the pros and cons bit because he knew the comments section was going to blow up.
You got that dog in you. That’s a massive amount of work for one dude
I own an insulation company- we do all kinds. Spray is by far the best R value. Provides vapor barrier, rodents will not nest in it like they do fiberglass. It resists mold and also adds up to 3x the structural integrity of standard stick framing. It’s a great sound dampener and you can apply any type of fire retardant over it with a spray system to make it surpass any other insulation. However, it’s very expensive. The negatives are very little. Our margin is the least on spray and most on fiber. Rock is somewhere between. Rock is becoming by far the most popular but my own home is sprayed and I spray my parents and siblings whenever they do a remodel because that’s what I recommend to anyone.
About how much would a company have cost doing this job?
It’s also toxic. The gasses as it settles will be horrible
No, it isn’t. Current foams all have new blowing agents that are no lo me er like foams of 25 years ago. The myth of the off gassing and foam being toxic is simply not true. I wouldn’t put it in my own house, with my kids if that was the case. This is a lie you have heard repeated from somewhere else. Just like the UK thing of mortgages being declined. Easily debunked.
Depends, I’m not sure the sq footage of the house, and that roof adds a ton of “sets” to the equation. He mentions 3 inches deep, but is he doing under the house as well, around hvac systems to insulate those also? Is he adding fire retardant or anything else. If I had to throw a number out I’d say between 8-11k but that’s a guess honestly.
No longer *
A frames are notoriously hard to heat no matter how well insulated. A large portion on the house is not insulated because of the window wall. Along with a open design plan and high catherdral ceilings, it's an enormous volume of space to heat and because of the structural constraint of a cathedral ceiling with no attic space you weren't able to run heating ducks to the atrium which is half the house. I might of missed it, but I didn't see any insulating done on the foundation and floor. This is just as important as the ceiling because of radiant temperature - a cold floor in contact with everything in the house is an incredible amount of heat loss. To heat an A frame more efficiently you would need an insulated assessable crawl space to run the heating ducks under the floor or better yet a heated floor. Heating the air costs more than heating the thermal mass of the floor. I truly admire your tenacity and I look forward to seeing how you navigate the rest of this build. It's an incredible undertaking.
I think he said in a previous video he plans to put radiant floor heating in the main part of the house downstairs. That would solve the problem you're talking about.
Woah, I followed your journey on the farmhouse renovation on my old tab. Fancy seeing you here, hope you will take another project on renovating cause your editing is quite entertaining 😂
Hey! I miss your videos. Hope you guys are doing great. Would be nice to see you back on here 😍
Under tile radiant floor heating isn't enough to heat a space I think the O.P. was referring to a large inslab heating system with PEX and water/ glycol heaters. Which is way more efficient and would work extremely well in maintaining a reasonable temperature zone.
I also was a big fan of your videos and your channel was the first one that I followed and waited for each update. It was the first channel that showed me youtube could be a main source of entertainment not just a one off here and there when I wanted to watch an old movie clip haha. Hope the family is well and life is treating you the same.
We insulated the wall between our bathroom and kitchen and our master bathroom and bedroom, best extra money spent 😊
Love the shout-out to John Malecki! Maybe he can hook you up with some new Shop Shades.
Around 17:00 you talk about the paper facing being a vapor barrier. The facing provides just a little more vapor resistance than the unfaced, but is not suitable to replace an actual vapor barrier.
A perm rating of 10 or greater is considered permeable and you need a rating of .1 or less to be considered a vapor barrier. The paper facing has a rating of 1, so it’s an improvement over nothing, but not enough on its own.
The facing is there to make installation easier so you can staple the paper tabs to the studs to keep the batting from falling down.
Oh man, I'm worried about the adhesion and longevity of this job (not a pro, just a building science-inclined DIYer) Those temperature requirements aren't vague suggestions, they're hard science. I can see you've got a heater in there, so you can at least (hopefully) get the foam close to the heater and get its temp up. But I can also see breath misting, which means I'm guessing it's nowhere close to the recommended temp, and it's applying to a cold substrate, which is going to drop the temperature even more. I'm not saying it's doomed, I just hope it turns out alright, since that's stacking the deck against yourself. Pros can sometimes spray in colder temps -- they have ways to cheat the temperature requirements, and should know when they're not going to get a good result -- but you don't have that option with froth packs.
What's far more inexcusable (imo) is the lack of proper respiratory safety equipment during application (or even a callout) -- these are the 'health concerns' that just got completely glossed over with a shrug because what sounded like the first result from Google didn't list them -- the product manual you got with the kit should. There's a time and a place for the safety police -- this is the time, this is the place. NIOSH-compliant VOC-rated cartridge + prefilter on a half-mask respirator + goggles at a *minimum*. Full-face would be better to keep the vapors away from your eyes as well. I'm fairly certain those disposable masks aren't VOC-rated, and even if they are they're not sealing enough to protect you properly. If you want to take your personal safety into your own hands and skip it, that's fine... it should at least be a callout.
Also worth noting that closed cell spray foam is only a full vapor barrier at a certain thickness per manufacturer spec (usually 1.5-2"). Any less than this, and it's *not* vapor impermeable. The fact that it's *just* coming up to the edge of the flanges on the I-joists suggests this is, at best, *right* at 1.5". You really want to *cover* those flanges (not just to ensure you have the proper thickness to achieve a vapor barrier) but so that you thermally break them from the outside, since they're a solid connection to your exterior sheathing. Also worth noting, especially in a roof assembly, that you need to have *enough* R value that you don't end up with your cold condensing surface be the *inside* face of the foam, potentially causing moisture to collect in your walls in quantities that can't dry to the inside.
Don't get me wrong. CCSF is an *amazing* product -- unmatched R-value, air sealing, even some structural fringe benefits. It can be applied properly in certain places where blown-in, rigid, or batt insulation are difficult to install properly. However, it's not just some magic 'energy-efficiency paint' that you can slap on and call it good. It's got a much higher barrier to install properly, and if not installed properly, with the proper considerations for what it's doing to your building assembly, it can be at best a waste of money, and at worst perpetuate long-term damage that is very expensive to remedy.
Bottom line, I hope it works out for you.
You typed all that and you’re wrong. Please STFU. 😂
Geez…. I can only imagine how drywalling the A frame ceiling to the peak.
What an awesome undertaking. Kudos to you and your determination
Thats going to be one super warm cabin! Holy moly. I would've went the extra mile too for my own house. Great job.
You can achieve 3” rigid foam with two layers of 1 1/5”. Significantly cheaper. Next time try continuous exterior with the 4x8 sheets. Tons of other benefits like reduced thermal bridging, air sealing if you tape seams etc
the best tip i've ever gotten for spray foam is it sprays better when its warmed up, and it also sticks to a warm surface better than a cold or freezing surface
I always love the before and after of insulation installation. Goes from cold and echoey to coziness and dead silence.
Keep up the hard work man. This house is gonna be awesome when you’re done!
Yay, I just wanted to say I'm happy that this doesn't have an overly-dramatic title or video. Also, respect for doing all that work. I would not want to have to be spray-foaming any house period, let alone an A-frame.
Finally no clickbait! You don't need that 👍🏻👍🏻
I watch John Malecki too!! Knew exactly who's shop glasses those where. Lol, hopefully, they come clean.
Alex, be proud of yourself! You've gotten so much work done and it's looking good!! Take care!
The hardest working guy in DIY. 💪🏼
you made me laugh with that comment
Man oh man, that's a lot of work! Great job getting it all done.
My legs would’ve been torched after all of that climbing. Kudos to you bro!
OMG this is a LOOOT of work 😱 and you do it by your own two hands- respect!
I really enjoy your videos. Greetings from Poland 😊
Get it done any means necessary type of guy right here!
That’s a massive amount of work, nice job man
you're doing an amazing job on your own keep up the good work. But I would recommend to tape all the seams to ensure no thermal transfer as cold on hot you have moisture and then mold
I can’t believe you took on all the insulation, 👏 ❤😊
Hey Alex. Progress looks great on the build! You mentioned running lights or fans off the ridge beam but don’t want exposed conduit. You should run electrical on it and then wrap the whole beam like a faux beam. It would be a lot of work, but that would give you the ability to put lights and fans and have a wood beam look
I hope you install some good ceiling fans. They will help so much with moving heat and air around with those high ceilings!! Every space with high ceilings needs a ceiling fan.
You should have John come out and help you build kitchen cabinets. He loves making those 😂😅
Another thing that can be done for sound dampening/noise cancellation is to do a double layer of drywall. I don't remember how much of a difference it makes but it does help a bit.
Closed cell also adds structural stability (makes it stronger) plus is is rodent resistant.
Look into Sunfire Heaters. They are awesome. You can actually attach a wall thermostat to the unit.
A lot of hard work. Good stuff brother… keep it up
Awesome job... above and beyond what's normally done, commercially
Shouldn't you tackle all the areas where light is coming in from the outside before spraying? Looks like you have massive holes in your envelope
It’s not that I don’t like spray foam since it does do a really good job of insulating. It’s just that it can also cause unknown potential problems later on that we don’t really have any reliable data on. I prefer to use mineral wool.
13:06 nooooo not John’s shop shades! 😂
I personally would have doubled 1.5" rigid foam. It's replaceable.
Spray foam can absorb and hold water. Ultimately, it causes the surrounding wood to rot. A major issue that many people have unfortunately experienced.
I am tired and need a nap just watching you go up and down that ladder. Lol. Awesome job though.
The more you spray the more the cannisters/bottles cool down lowering the pressure in them. If you had set that heater pointing at the bottles (safe distance) they would have heated and you would have had full pressure.
That was a glorious effort! 🙌
(A curious DIYer here) Why is your vapor barrier on the inside of the insulation in some places (plastic sheeting) and outside (spray foam) in other places? I know you’re following the drawn plans, but I’d love to know why that is.
I mean it makes total sense that the spray foam needs to be adequately warm. Its a two part reaction. If its too cold it wont cure properly, or at all.
Insulate your interior bedroom and bathroom walls for sound.
I would have done rockwool just to not have to touch the pink stuff
Been watching your videos for a while now, but first time leaving a comment. Once i saw the Seahawks sweatshirt had to say GO HAWKS!!! Thats all, much love and God Bless from Texas.
Seattle native stranded in DFW, Go Hawks!
use a little bit of lacquer thinner to clean those goggles then rubbing alcohol then water wait dry em off then should be good to go
Two days that's very good congrats
Holy cow!!! That's expensive. Sorry major sticker shock. I can't imagine how much it would be to hire out because that is a huge undertaking. I just built a home ( Also causing sticker shock) and had the same issues with deliveries. I'm rural and have a 1000 ft long driveway. I've redone the driveway 3 or 4 times now because of heavy trucks. Then, after moving in, I had so many complaints about delivering here and refusal to complete deliveries I had to make a turn around. I love living in the country but it definitely has challenges.
You are a rockstar. This is a badass.
you do realize people do this every day for a living. they are the rockstars.
@ Debby downer living up to your name 😂
@@hn9708 you are so funny I forgot to laugh. I'd say you were an *ss kisser if I had to give you a name LOL
I wish my house was that well insulated lol some job 👌🏼
Drywall is going to be a nightmare on those high ceilings!
Would have been great to see what the temp was before insulating then after. 😊
One thing this channel teaches me is somethings you leave to the pros. Spray Foam is one of them.
Agree. It's a good experience to DIY but for a house is too much (especially the A-frame). A small shed, sure, spray away.
For so many reasons, yes.
You shouldn't be learning anything from this channel, watch it for the entertainment only
Yeah I liked this channel to start but he does so many things wrong I stopped watching
Even batt insulation. I did my garage and it was cheaper to have it installed than the materials from Lowe’s, Home Depot or Menards.
Your pressure is dropping in the tanks because they are getting cold.... get two heating pads and wrap them around the tanks with duct tape then put a bat of insulation around and duct tape that let sit for 30 min and come up to temp....
Good advice. I sometimes put spray cans in warm water to achieve the same thing. Maybe clean the nozzle from time to time. Don’t know if this is crucial when it comes to foam spray guns but when dealing with air brush guns it makes a world of difference.
Love the hoodie, Go Hawks!
great job! Drywalling that place is gonna be fun 😅
Will you be giving a price breakdown of the full cabin at the end?
Using a face shield is the way to go with DIY spray foam kits
Bro you have a golf simulator? We need to be friends. Lol. Love your videos man.
I did the foam board route. It took forever
Once you got that spray foam and batton in, I bet that buddy heater runs a lot less lol
You do a great job explaining products you know nothing about 😂! Your videos are always so entertaining.
hard to believe those kits are less expensive than just have a company come and spray
So, how often during this did you question your decision to go with an A-frame design?😊
What kit did u use for the spray foam ?
Awesome job! I can just imagine how show sore you were!
I’m curious to know how much that would have costed if a company came into spray the parts that you sprayed. Obviously it varies by area but where I am those kits actually end up being a lot more expensive and problematic. Regardless it looks great
Came out great!
Damn dude, how many steps did you take climbing that damn ladder. Buns of steel for sure. But you are sore after doing that. Congrats on getting that done by yourself.
Can’t even imagine the drywall installation…😮
2.5 days to do it yourself. The funny thing is, a professional company could tackle that house in 2.5 hours. But they would have charged you like $10k to do it. Brave of you to do this by yourself. I think it's one of the most ambitious jobs you've ever done.
I heared something about sprayfoam and people getting ill from it. Can anyone tell me more about that?
Thanks for sharing
Using a full face respirator would work better in my mind.
I dont really know what R-value it is in the sprayfoam and the thinkness of your insulation. But the vapor-barrier should not be further out than 1/3 in the wall at maximum. Otherwise you may have problems with condensation and later on mold.
This is going to be a dumb question, but… if those ceilings are stuffed with insulation and spray foam with no baffles how do you get airflow between the rafters?
Going back in time, wouldn't it have been a LOT easier just to have backed up a trailer to the back of the 18 wheeler and drop the load on it and then back it down to the cabin?
why no fork lift?
Häuser Deutschland. Österreich der Schweiz und ganz Skandinavien haben osb innen. Dss ist die luftdichte Dampfbremse. Aussen mdf oder tyvek. Wie rückständ baut ihr überhaupt?
16.40 you look like mike tv off charlie and the chocolate 🍫 factory 😅
I can't believe the inspector passed a swiss cheese vapor barrier. Guessing vapor barrier isn't actually a building code requirement there. Scary!
I also thought that your not suppose to put a plastic vapor barrier over faced insulation
And that spray foam! Not even close to 3 inches thick and you could literally see the plywood showing trough on the edges of the rafter bays. Just get it done quick so you can get views. The next guy can deal with it.
Are you sure your nose protection is sufficient for spray-foaming??
Is there a reason you didn’t go with rock wool insulation?
Maybe faster install? Looks like it would be a lot of cutting/time otherwise. Curious to know his reason also.
less R value in that thickness, vapor barrier, critters, etc.
cant wait for dry wall
Noooooo! @Mr. Build it , you installed the faced insulation incorrectly. No staples are needed, the paper should be facing out & you can use the insulation bars/supports to keep them in place.
Very awesome
Why is the hydro add at old house? 😂 didn't think someone would knotice 🤔
Wow, great work! Love the content, but notice you never interact with viewers in the comments? What up with that? Anywho, keep it up
If you have ever drove a tractor trailer you would understand. As a professional driver the customer never makes me back or drive into something that I'm not going to get stuck or dangerous. If a tow truck is called it goes on you driving record.
Cutting the insulation is much easier with an electric turkey carver
For me, this was the most anxiety inducing video yet. F noooooo😳🤪🤯😅
You just need to rent a man lift of scaffolding man.
Sea.....HAWKS
looks like a big expensive cabin. it would be insane to not insulate every wall, also interior, for sound proofing.
Go hawks
Mommy and daddy having a "talk" 😉.
I love how backwards the USA are, using this terrible product in the UK will cause no end of issues. Most mortgage companies will not mortgage a property with this type of installation. Many will force you to remove it and the same companies that promote this also remove it 😂
Because government knows best.
It's not preferred in the USA anymore either. I think that's why he did the pros and cons bit because he knew the comments section was going to blow up.
Too many materials were used for insulation, it seems to me that these costs are not effective!!!
didn't know insulation was considered an energy bill hack?🤭🤔🤫
Seattle Seahawks?? Ok.
I think you can skip Leg day on your workout. lol