I actually made 2 mistakes in this video. I will be redoing the whole video because of this soon. The fuel hoses are not the correct kind of hose and the petcock vacuum line is connected to a spot that will give it inconsistent vacuum. If it is connected to one of the carb tops it will be consistent but you then have to seal off the side port.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 so initially when you were pointing to the vacuum line going to the side of carb right side of engine should be sealed with a cap or something. I just finished cleaning my carbs, just having the issue with the hoses pulling gas to the carbs *doing this without a gastank right now due to rust cleaning. If you don't mind sharing insight on what I'm doing wrong be great
@@dolanwae2718 You want to plug the side of the carb that I connected the vacuum line to. Instead you want the vacuum line to connect to the top of one of the carbs and seal the 3 others. I believe mine is connected to the #2 carb but it doesnt really matter which one.
Hey I have a question I have a 2002 Suzuki Katana 750 the question that I have is the bike runs on three cylinders in low speed but once you go high speed all four cylinders work that's normal on this bike so I have a problem I checked the spark plugs I check I check for the spark I checked the carburetors and everything looks fine it doesn't lose power or something like that so maybe someone has a Suzuki Katana maybe can respond of my question
You show more than anyone else. But I guess I got to start making videos foe people cause when your putting it back together you will still be lost cause nobody seems to show where each hose goes to just where you connect them and there is way to many place the other ends can go. Example the peckcock wise you show hook to the peckcock but not where they go to. But thank you this helps more than anybody else's video. Guess it's time to look up the manual to find exactly where they are routined to.
Thanks for making this video. My 93 started with a small leak from a cracked hose to dumping fuel when I started it yesterday morning. I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to bikes so it's nice to have this for reference before I start removing the tank to replace all of these lines.
Coming back to this video after finally getting to work on it. Notes for anyone coming in behind me: tank doesn't need to be drained to take off. Also notes for anyone coming in behind me: reconnect the vacuum line to the back of the petcock after you do this :')
Hey man you seem to be the right guy to ask this where do I put my Guage to check sync of each carb mine 95 600 kanotuna is sputtering and popping so I could only think it's to much air
@@damyonchrysler7818 I have a carb rebuild video you should see. (Not the same carbs but the info/how to is the same) I don’t recommend using gauges to sync the carbs unless you know how to sync the gauges. I just bench sync mine.
Could you reference a time stamp in the video? Also for katanas running without an airbox and using pods is horrible for performance. The carbs are designed to use an airbox and you’ll never have the correct fuel air mix at any rpm with pods. I agree the airbox looks bad compared to pods but the performance change is just too extreme. Also without an airbox you don’t use an additional hose. You would use one less (the one that goes from the airbox to the top of the engine). Instead of that hose you would put a breather filter on top of the engine where that port is.
i have a 2005 katana 750 although the bikes are pretty simillar mine dosent have certain things your bike does i now see were the fuel line is but confused on where to connect it on the fuel pertcock and also undermy gas tank theres two nipples in the middle of them not sure were they go considering my fuel measeruer is all electronic so i just connect it to a plug in it dosent have any vacum lines connected to it
Their are 2 fuel lines and 1 vacuum line on the petcock. The 2 fuel lines connect to the carbs and the vacuum line can connect to a vacuum port on any of the carbs technically but their is one normally designated spot on the far right one and other 4 are plugged. I believe the one under the tank your referring to doesn’t really do anything other than vent as temps increase and air under there would expand otherwise.
Thanks for the detailed videos. If you had a manual cam chain tensioner, what would be your strategy for the best/easiest way to access and adjust, starting with all the bodywork in place?
@@airjunky1 I have a manual tensioner but will never use it. There is no easy way to adjust it and any manual tensioner would need constant adjustments made. In my engine reassembly video I show the best way to install the standard tensioner and adjust it which I highly recommend.
Please, help me with the ignition coil cables order. I take off the cables, but, I can't remember the order of instalation. I need the instructions for reassembly them. May you make a video showing how to connect the cables between coils and spark plugs, or indicate me a video already have made about that?
I know for sure I showed that in one of my videos. I think it was at the end of my engine reassembly one. You might also be interested in my coil relay mod video.
Any suggestions for fixing a leaky petcock without getting a new one? I pulled mine apart and all looks good gaskets are fine it holds vacuumed all that but the plunger isn’t getting pushed back in far enough to stop the flow of gas once there isn’t vacuum, had a bunch of gas in my oil and all the outher fun shit that comes with that
@@jakobrandolph3126 I’ve heard of rebuild kits available for them but generally swapping for a new one is the best way to go. I’d also recommend you double check your float height to possibly reduce the problem. Just make sure the petcock is pointed straight down when parked (on and off are the same positions). You’d be surprised how many people don’t realize this.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 appreciate ya as always, didn’t realize this bike was gonna be this much a issue, but than again she is 30 something years old so what can I really exspect, but gonna hunt down a new one, I know Amazon has some but it’s the same thing already on this and this one failed so early it seems just worries me buying another one that’s the same
@@jakobrandolph3126 I’d go for a new Suzuki petcock. I did that a while back and I haven’t had any issues since. If you find another parts bike you’ll likely end up having the same broken parts due to age. Unless you have an absurd amount of damage unrelated to age it’s not really worthwhile.
would any of you by chance know why my 02 katana GSX600F keeps blowing the main fuse?(sometimes immediately, & sometimes it may take a while. Then after changing it, i still won't have any power at all back for a lil bit.)
You might have a wiring problem with something cut somewhere and touching something it shouldn't. Could also have an alternator putting out too much electricity but I find this very very unlikely. One of the electronic parts its connected to could also be damaged but it's hard to say which one. I recommend you find a wiring diagram and follow the wires. I had to completely rewires this bike because of rodent damage so I feel the pain. It takes forever to fix wiring problems.
@@TheJoeyFerraro the only time you would ever need to drain the tank first is if the petcock was stuck open. Otherwise just put it in the on position (straight down) and make sure the fuel lines don’t get gas everywhere with what’s remaining in them.
Got a question on a 94 Suzuki katana. When I fire the bike up after about 5 seconds the rpms sky rockets to about 6-7000 rpms. Any ideas what it could be? I did a whole rebuild and bench synced the carbs
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 also the hose on the bottom on the air box. I don’t have a hose there. So air is going right though? Could that be a problem?
@@jacobbradley9619 That hole under the air box will suck air through and debris. You need to cover it up. It's normally a drain plug for if water gets in there. If it ran for 5 seconds just fine then it's not the throttle part I mentioned. You likely have the carb assembled wrong, a huge air leak or the incorrect carb rebuild parts (their frequently mislabeled). It could also be that after 5 seconds you turned the throttle and the cable got stuck on one of the middle intake boot clamps (what I mentioned earlier). I'm pretty confident its this and to check it, all you have to do is watch the throttle cable as it attaches to the carbs and you'll see where it gets stuck on the intake boot clamps if their are angled wrong.
Thanks for your videos, very helpful. I wanted to have you opinion on those breather hoses, In the process of carb cleaning on my 96 750 I ended up using a non OEM fitting (T shaped connection between 2 carbs) and now my idle is unstable . I'm not an expert by any means and in the process of carb cleaning so many thing could've gone wrong since it's my first time, this is why I'm not sure where to look for?!!! Also as I was tightening up the pilot screws to the factory setting as you said, I tried to screw it all the way in and then do 2.5 turns out, but I'm suspicious that I could've over/under tightened the pilot screw in the process of "screwing it all the way in" . And I also ended up using a non-OEM replacement washer for another pilot screw. I'm sure when I opened it it was missing a washer but it's so tiny I could've lost it. Also used a non-OEM vacuum cap for the top of one of the carbs. ALL seemed to fit right. Any tips or info will help. Thanks
You can check for damage on the pilot screw by examining its tip. You will want the correct size washers and o-rings attached to them. Your ide problem could be an airleak coming from your intake boots or vacuum box. Make sure your jets are correct as well as their are plenty of aftermarket jet kits that say they fit or that they are a specific size and simply are not.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Thanks, the pilot screw tips were fine, it's jetted by the previous owner and accordingly it was running fine prior to sleeping in the storage for 3 years. The idle kept going up to 3k and back 1k but when it warmed up a little it became more stable.
@@kaba9830 depending on how stable it becomes when its warm could just be the fuel air mix isnt correct when its cold. If it continues to be inconsistent it is likely an airleak. On a side not you should make sure your float heights are correct.
I also have a video explaining how to work on katana carbs that you may want to watch as well as an airbox video and how to replace intake boots video.
Hey buddy, really appreciate your hard work here especially as I recently bought a 1990 katana 750 that has 40k + miles on it. Any tips on where to place an inline fuel filter? I use them on other bikes but never had something with so little room to work with, let alone 2 fuel hoses!
Hey I just picked up a 95 750 it ran(rough at best) on throttle but wouldn’t idle come to find out the carbs were in bad shape and the emulsion tubes were filthy among other issues. Your vids have been extremely helpful from there being a lack of info/videos on these early models. Do you have a contact to ask questions in regards to the bike?
Bruh a suzuki sidekick or samurai fuel level sender works you just need to shorten the level lever. I did this on my 95 750 cause the tank was ROUGH inside. Google it, loads of em on fleabay and amozon. Took off the pods some dumb dumb put on and never re-jetted the carbs. Prolly why is sat so long. I got an airbox and NEED that vid.......every idea helps.
My pet cock only has 2 valves one on the back facing away derectly behind the switchand the other is on the right hand side facing the back of the bike if u can help me out that would be awsome! Really like your vids by the way
I read your other comment and you are using the wrong petcock. Yours is a simple gravity one that has constant flow. You should be using a vacuum operated petcock for this bike.
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I went through so many videos and no one had the time to explain the basics of this. Thank you sir
I actually made 2 mistakes in this video. I will be redoing the whole video because of this soon. The fuel hoses are not the correct kind of hose and the petcock vacuum line is connected to a spot that will give it inconsistent vacuum. If it is connected to one of the carb tops it will be consistent but you then have to seal off the side port.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 so initially when you were pointing to the vacuum line going to the side of carb right side of engine should be sealed with a cap or something. I just finished cleaning my carbs, just having the issue with the hoses pulling gas to the carbs *doing this without a gastank right now due to rust cleaning. If you don't mind sharing insight on what I'm doing wrong be great
@@dolanwae2718 You want to plug the side of the carb that I connected the vacuum line to. Instead you want the vacuum line to connect to the top of one of the carbs and seal the 3 others. I believe mine is connected to the #2 carb but it doesnt really matter which one.
Hey I have a question I have a 2002 Suzuki Katana 750 the question that I have is the bike runs on three cylinders in low speed but once you go high speed all four cylinders work that's normal on this bike so I have a problem I checked the spark plugs I check I check for the spark I checked the carburetors and everything looks fine it doesn't lose power or something like that so maybe someone has a Suzuki Katana maybe can respond of my question
I just keep going back to this video every time I need to work on my bike, hopefully today I get it running again.
Great video
My bike has spark, is firing, but absolutely will not start, im hoping this video helps. Did you get your bike running?
You show more than anyone else. But I guess I got to start making videos foe people cause when your putting it back together you will still be lost cause nobody seems to show where each hose goes to just where you connect them and there is way to many place the other ends can go. Example the peckcock wise you show hook to the peckcock but not where they go to. But thank you this helps more than anybody else's video. Guess it's time to look up the manual to find exactly where they are routined to.
Thanks for making this video. My 93 started with a small leak from a cracked hose to dumping fuel when I started it yesterday morning. I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to bikes so it's nice to have this for reference before I start removing the tank to replace all of these lines.
Coming back to this video after finally getting to work on it. Notes for anyone coming in behind me: tank doesn't need to be drained to take off. Also notes for anyone coming in behind me: reconnect the vacuum line to the back of the petcock after you do this :')
Hey man you seem to be the right guy to ask this where do I put my Guage to check sync of each carb mine 95 600 kanotuna is sputtering and popping so I could only think it's to much air
@@damyonchrysler7818 I have a carb rebuild video you should see. (Not the same carbs but the info/how to is the same) I don’t recommend using gauges to sync the carbs unless you know how to sync the gauges. I just bench sync mine.
just what i was looking for bought a 93 750 petrol pipes were missing got a good idea now where they fit thanks
Thank you so much! Could use some help with ignition wiring that was previously bypassed if you have any time.
Sure, what is the problem?
The line that you were talking about when you have no airbox. Which line is that and where is connected on my carb?
Could you reference a time stamp in the video? Also for katanas running without an airbox and using pods is horrible for performance. The carbs are designed to use an airbox and you’ll never have the correct fuel air mix at any rpm with pods. I agree the airbox looks bad compared to pods but the performance change is just too extreme. Also without an airbox you don’t use an additional hose. You would use one less (the one that goes from the airbox to the top of the engine). Instead of that hose you would put a breather filter on top of the engine where that port is.
i have a 2005 katana 750 although the bikes are pretty simillar mine dosent have certain things your bike does i now see were the fuel line is but confused on where to connect it on the fuel pertcock and also undermy gas tank theres two nipples in the middle of them not sure were they go considering my fuel measeruer is all electronic so i just connect it to a plug in it dosent have any vacum lines connected to it
Their are 2 fuel lines and 1 vacuum line on the petcock. The 2 fuel lines connect to the carbs and the vacuum line can connect to a vacuum port on any of the carbs technically but their is one normally designated spot on the far right one and other 4 are plugged. I believe the one under the tank your referring to doesn’t really do anything other than vent as temps increase and air under there would expand otherwise.
My fuel line in my 2006 katana 600 comes from the middle of my four carbs, how do you run the fuel line from underneath?
I’m not sure about the 2006 600. The main thing is to make sure it’s not kinked.
Hello. Any idea where I can find a new petcock and gas tank for an 89 Katana gsx1100f?
eBay for the tank but you’ll probably have to wait for a good one to pop up and maybe Babbitt’s or suzukipartshouse for a petcock.
Thanks for the detailed videos. If you had a manual cam chain tensioner, what would be your strategy for the best/easiest way to access and adjust, starting with all the bodywork in place?
@@airjunky1 I have a manual tensioner but will never use it. There is no easy way to adjust it and any manual tensioner would need constant adjustments made. In my engine reassembly video I show the best way to install the standard tensioner and adjust it which I highly recommend.
Please, help me with the ignition coil cables order. I take off the cables, but, I can't remember the order of instalation. I need the instructions for reassembly them. May you make a video showing how to connect the cables between coils and spark plugs, or indicate me a video already have made about that?
I know for sure I showed that in one of my videos. I think it was at the end of my engine reassembly one. You might also be interested in my coil relay mod video.
Any suggestions for fixing a leaky petcock without getting a new one? I pulled mine apart and all looks good gaskets are fine it holds vacuumed all that but the plunger isn’t getting pushed back in far enough to stop the flow of gas once there isn’t vacuum, had a bunch of gas in my oil and all the outher fun shit that comes with that
@@jakobrandolph3126 I’ve heard of rebuild kits available for them but generally swapping for a new one is the best way to go. I’d also recommend you double check your float height to possibly reduce the problem. Just make sure the petcock is pointed straight down when parked (on and off are the same positions). You’d be surprised how many people don’t realize this.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 appreciate ya as always, didn’t realize this bike was gonna be this much a issue, but than again she is 30 something years old so what can I really exspect, but gonna hunt down a new one, I know Amazon has some but it’s the same thing already on this and this one failed so early it seems just worries me buying another one that’s the same
@@jakobrandolph3126 I’d go for a new Suzuki petcock. I did that a while back and I haven’t had any issues since. If you find another parts bike you’ll likely end up having the same broken parts due to age. Unless you have an absurd amount of damage unrelated to age it’s not really worthwhile.
So that vacuum hose on the side of the carb when I bout the bike they had it running right back to the carb nothing from the petcock
Mine too
would any of you by chance know why my 02 katana GSX600F keeps blowing the main fuse?(sometimes immediately, & sometimes it may take a while. Then after changing it, i still won't have any power at all back for a lil bit.)
You might have a wiring problem with something cut somewhere and touching something it shouldn't. Could also have an alternator putting out too much electricity but I find this very very unlikely. One of the electronic parts its connected to could also be damaged but it's hard to say which one. I recommend you find a wiring diagram and follow the wires. I had to completely rewires this bike because of rodent damage so I feel the pain. It takes forever to fix wiring problems.
Also when the switch is on purge the bike runs great till im at a stop then it dumps gas out of one of the hoses that go over the air box
Check your floats too. They may be getting stuck.
I just want to verify what i believe you're saying. If the petcock is in the ON position then gas will not flow from it during removal?
That is correct. There will be a small amount of residual gas but it won’t be open.
Thank you!@@suzukikatanamechanic5842
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 So you wouldn't need to drain the tank first?
@@TheJoeyFerraro the only time you would ever need to drain the tank first is if the petcock was stuck open. Otherwise just put it in the on position (straight down) and make sure the fuel lines don’t get gas everywhere with what’s remaining in them.
Got a question on a 94 Suzuki katana. When I fire the bike up after about 5 seconds the rpms sky rockets to about 6-7000 rpms. Any ideas what it could be? I did a whole rebuild and bench synced the carbs
I've got a feeling its one of your intake boot clamps grabbing the carb throttle. If you angle it incorrectly it will hold the throttle open.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 what do you mean the carb throttle? Like the throttle cable?
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 well I had it running for about 10 seconds then boom it went up.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 also the hose on the bottom on the air box. I don’t have a hose there. So air is going right though? Could that be a problem?
@@jacobbradley9619 That hole under the air box will suck air through and debris. You need to cover it up. It's normally a drain plug for if water gets in there. If it ran for 5 seconds just fine then it's not the throttle part I mentioned. You likely have the carb assembled wrong, a huge air leak or the incorrect carb rebuild parts (their frequently mislabeled).
It could also be that after 5 seconds you turned the throttle and the cable got stuck on one of the middle intake boot clamps (what I mentioned earlier). I'm pretty confident its this and to check it, all you have to do is watch the throttle cable as it attaches to the carbs and you'll see where it gets stuck on the intake boot clamps if their are angled wrong.
Thanks for your videos, very helpful. I wanted to have you opinion on those breather hoses, In the process of carb cleaning on my 96 750 I ended up using a non OEM fitting (T shaped connection between 2 carbs) and now my idle is unstable . I'm not an expert by any means and in the process of carb cleaning so many thing could've gone wrong since it's my first time, this is why I'm not sure where to look for?!!! Also as I was tightening up the pilot screws to the factory setting as you said, I tried to screw it all the way in and then do 2.5 turns out, but I'm suspicious that I could've over/under tightened the pilot screw in the process of "screwing it all the way in" . And I also ended up using a non-OEM replacement washer for another pilot screw. I'm sure when I opened it it was missing a washer but it's so tiny I could've lost it. Also used a non-OEM vacuum cap for the top of one of the carbs. ALL seemed to fit right. Any tips or info will help. Thanks
You can check for damage on the pilot screw by examining its tip. You will want the correct size washers and o-rings attached to them. Your ide problem could be an airleak coming from your intake boots or vacuum box. Make sure your jets are correct as well as their are plenty of aftermarket jet kits that say they fit or that they are a specific size and simply are not.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Thanks, the pilot screw tips were fine, it's jetted by the previous owner and accordingly it was running fine prior to sleeping in the storage for 3 years. The idle kept going up to 3k and back 1k but when it warmed up a little it became more stable.
@@kaba9830 depending on how stable it becomes when its warm could just be the fuel air mix isnt correct when its cold. If it continues to be inconsistent it is likely an airleak. On a side not you should make sure your float heights are correct.
I also have a video explaining how to work on katana carbs that you may want to watch as well as an airbox video and how to replace intake boots video.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 As I was cleaning, visually everything looked right and the same in 4 carbs.
Hey buddy, really appreciate your hard work here especially as I recently bought a 1990 katana 750 that has 40k + miles on it. Any tips on where to place an inline fuel filter? I use them on other bikes but never had something with so little room to work with, let alone 2 fuel hoses!
I would not recommend a fuel filter. I’ve seen many people with our bikes experience fuel flow problems after installing them.
Where did u get your parts from
I generally get my new parts from suzukipartshouse.com and used from ebay.
Oh ok thank lol it’s still shutting off but I am glad I fixed that vacuum line
Hey I just picked up a 95 750 it ran(rough at best) on throttle but wouldn’t idle come to find out the carbs were in bad shape and the emulsion tubes were filthy among other issues. Your vids have been extremely helpful from there being a lack of info/videos on these early models. Do you have a contact to ask questions in regards to the bike?
Instagram: bill_armstrong_dxb
Bruh a suzuki sidekick or samurai fuel level sender works you just need to shorten the level lever. I did this on my 95 750 cause the tank was ROUGH inside. Google it, loads of em on fleabay and amozon. Took off the pods some dumb dumb put on and never re-jetted the carbs. Prolly why is sat so long. I got an airbox and NEED that vid.......every idea helps.
I really think I just solved my problem the only thing is it’s to early to start my bike on a Sunday lol
I've been there many times. Too often I've been able to ride it around the neighborhood then it suddenly stalls. lol
Could I contact you on like Facebook? I have questions would really like you to look at a few things on my bike.
Instagram bill_armstrong_dxb
The back of the petcock and to the carb I knew I was missing something
My pet cock only has 2 valves one on the back facing away derectly behind the switchand the other is on the right hand side facing the back of the bike if u can help me out that would be awsome! Really like your vids by the way
I read your other comment and you are using the wrong petcock. Yours is a simple gravity one that has constant flow. You should be using a vacuum operated petcock for this bike.