I did this last week, but also moved my Special Edition stick caps (Orange) from the original sticks to the new Hall Effects sticks. All went well except I had to remove conformal coating on both the replacement and new sticks covering the pad I had to desolder/solder the wire to which made it take about twice as long as it should have. All told I am pretty happy with the performance of the new sticks and have been able to lower the deadzone to 200 from the stock default of 8192.
I'd say it is very unlikely to happen... But, even if it does happen, it would probably cost you way more than selling your LCD deck and buying an OLED one in exchange
@AndreaB6 That doesn't sound like such a bad idea, actually. Though it depends on how much they go for used. I probably won't do it because I don't want to go through the hassle of selling it, though!
@@majorgnu Maybe at GameStop or similar places they have some promotions to swap models for cheap? I'm not sure about it, since where I live the Deck isn't officially available, but this kind of thing are common practise if you want to change a PS4 for a PS5 for instance
I did this with the version 2 of their sticks for the LCD Steam Deck and I'm pretty happy with them, but I'm admittedly no stick connoisseur. I did it because the original right stick wasn't moving smoothly and I could hear it creaking. I think they differed from the originals in their range when deflected in diagonal directions, but I haven't felt any issues from that. Again, no connoisseur and joysticks are hardly ever used with that much precision anyway. It's normally just the angle of deflection that really matters, and that should be the same regardless.
The folks at Gulikit know what they're doing. I recently installed a pair of their hall effect joysticks in my Switch Lite. They look and feel OEM, and should hopefully last the lifetime of the system without any stupid drift.
Do you plan to cover eXtremeRate Face Clicky Kit for Steam Deck? I am interested in how it performs in comparison to vanilla DPad, which isn't great (specifically the diagonals are very inconsistent).
I've done it for OLED. Dpad is much better for me in stuff like fighting games where that diagonal issue was VERY noticeable. Face buttons can be a bit weird. They don't push as far in anymore so I don't get the sticking buttons, but it took some adjusting to them.
Hello! Any idea how I can get the touch/pressure sensor working on these? I installed them before watching your video but followed the steps pretty much exactly. The Steam Deck is not recognising pressure on either stick. RMA or is there something missing from this video? Thanks
I read on reddit yesterday about some really bad square dead zone issue with these. Wasnt just one person either there was at least 30 posts commenting about the issue. Theres some new sticks coming from a kickstarter that look well promising though.
If I have the limited edition oled, can I solder the old sticks onto the new pcb's, like the original lcd kit? Also, on videos like this, a smaller aperture, lots of light, and auto focus off are your friends. The focus seeking on your camera for your zoomed in shots was a little rough.
I installed these in my deck but had to revert back to the original as they are in a weird "square" active zone. If you go to the controller calibration and testing options, in the deadzone adjustments area, when rotating the original sticks around, you can visibly see that the active area is in a radial pattern, like any normal traditional controller. When you do the same with the Gulikit, they produce a square pattern, like a flight joystick. Having a square pattern and not a radial one will cause issues when playing third person games or shooters, as when you push 20% northwest on the stick, you are actually inputting about 10% more on a square pattern than you would on a radial pattern, if you get what I'm saying. Anyways, for me it was messing up fine movements needed in certain games and I went back to the original ones. No amount of calibration will fix this as the problem is with the controller chip on the board of the sticks. I hope Gulikit address this in a future iteration of this product.
Supposedly yes. The capacitive sticks are included in the assembly and there's no need to transfer the old stick to the new stick. Pay attention to the version that you are buying as this is not compatible if you have the LCD version of the steam deck. Likewise, an the older version of these sticks won't be compatible with the OLED version of the deck.
@@adyamaulana I did! I bought a cheap soldering iron along with the hall effect sticks. I'm sure it's on every SD, but there was a weird rubbery film on the contact pads making it really hard to get through to the actual metal and wires. Not knowing what I should do about it I burned through it with the iron and peeled it off, and for my first soldering job, went really well.
With all these mods and stuff already for the SteamDeck OLED, I really hope that a potential SteamDeck 2 allows us to just drop in the new board into existing systems. That, and I hope the next SD uses a custom Qualcomm chip instead.
I don't think a Qualcomm chip would make any sense because there's no native arm ports. The battery life might be better, but the performance will suffer greatly.
For the moment the biggest problem on the Deck, even OLED, is the input latency, even at 90 Hz where it's the less problematic, it's still very very heavy. I really hope steam os 3.6 brings big improvements in that regard, as well as the option to disable vsync again (allow tearing doesn't work since 3.5), and choose between triple OR double buffered vsync.
@@gardiner_bryant I'm very latency sensitive, and I can absolutely tell you that latency is insane, even by fixed refresh standards. Try to play that Halo of yours with Gyro aim at 60 Hz and cry, of course with Eye Patch enabled (aka aim assist disabled). (to be clear, you'd need to fully revert to M&K input, since unfortunately the MCC doesn't support mixing controller and mouse inputs)
@@Alexvander10 That's not helping unfortunately... Even Joshua himself recognizes the issue, what about allow tearing not working for example? The latency is absolutely insane on the Deck, lock a game at 45 FPS (for 90 Hz) and use gyro, you'll notice insane delay, and that's not just because it's "only" 45 FPS.
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What was that fps in the video?
This video could have been titled a bit better. Didn't know it would be a sponsored review of thumbsticks.
Ditto- Clicked on it, thinking it might have been referring to a SteamOS upgrade.
The same. I was completely not interested in the content. I just skipped through it, thinking it's just a part of it, but no, everything was about it.
I fixed it
@@gardiner_bryant that’s not what I called fixed
@@gardiner_bryant You did not.
I did this last week, but also moved my Special Edition stick caps (Orange) from the original sticks to the new Hall Effects sticks. All went well except I had to remove conformal coating on both the replacement and new sticks covering the pad I had to desolder/solder the wire to which made it take about twice as long as it should have. All told I am pretty happy with the performance of the new sticks and have been able to lower the deadzone to 200 from the stock default of 8192.
I hope someone eventually comes up with an LCD to OLED conversion so I don’t have to fully replace the whole deck right now
I'd say it is very unlikely to happen... But, even if it does happen, it would probably cost you way more than selling your LCD deck and buying an OLED one in exchange
The internals, battery size, etc are different internally. It's not going to happen. Or if it does it will be awkward/difficult to do
@AndreaB6 That doesn't sound like such a bad idea, actually. Though it depends on how much they go for used. I probably won't do it because I don't want to go through the hassle of selling it, though!
@@majorgnu Maybe at GameStop or similar places they have some promotions to swap models for cheap? I'm not sure about it, since where I live the Deck isn't officially available, but this kind of thing are common practise if you want to change a PS4 for a PS5 for instance
I did this with the version 2 of their sticks for the LCD Steam Deck and I'm pretty happy with them, but I'm admittedly no stick connoisseur.
I did it because the original right stick wasn't moving smoothly and I could hear it creaking.
I think they differed from the originals in their range when deflected in diagonal directions, but I haven't felt any issues from that. Again, no connoisseur and joysticks are hardly ever used with that much precision anyway. It's normally just the angle of deflection that really matters, and that should be the same regardless.
Did the GuliKit on my LCD Steam Deck a year ago. And I see the fiddling configuration hell still remains strong even now with the OLED ones.
The folks at Gulikit know what they're doing. I recently installed a pair of their hall effect joysticks in my Switch Lite. They look and feel OEM, and should hopefully last the lifetime of the system without any stupid drift.
I have their stick on my Joy Cons and work great.
Is the third hand included with the sticks, or do I have to go to I Fixit?
I may have to pick these up soon.
No soldering on the OLED model, eh? I might actually give it a shot this time
Yeah i was wondering 🤔
The LCD model eventually got Gulikit sticks that didn’t need soldering too. Those are the ones I installed in mine. I’m not messing with soldering!
@@dewinter1411 thanks for the info
generally would advise disconnecting the battery when doing anything directly with the internals.
Do you plan to cover eXtremeRate Face Clicky Kit for Steam Deck? I am interested in how it performs in comparison to vanilla DPad, which isn't great (specifically the diagonals are very inconsistent).
I've done it for OLED. Dpad is much better for me in stuff like fighting games where that diagonal issue was VERY noticeable. Face buttons can be a bit weird. They don't push as far in anymore so I don't get the sticking buttons, but it took some adjusting to them.
I was super worried the bumpers being integrated on the thumbstick PCB would make it difficult to install, but this looks simple enough!
Hello! Any idea how I can get the touch/pressure sensor working on these? I installed them before watching your video but followed the steps pretty much exactly. The Steam Deck is not recognising pressure on either stick. RMA or is there something missing from this video? Thanks
Yay! Finally! I had these on my SD LED model. Glad they made em for the OLED. Esp since the SD is my primary gaming device.
I read on reddit yesterday about some really bad square dead zone issue with these. Wasnt just one person either there was at least 30 posts commenting about the issue. Theres some new sticks coming from a kickstarter that look well promising though.
Does this have the same issue the LCD model had? With the square active zone instead of round?
Geometry Wars is amazing on the deck, I need to play that game more.
I'm currently playing Echoes+ (free)
@@nexuiz6142 Nice, did not know about that game. Downloaded, I'll give it a try.
If I have the limited edition oled, can I solder the old sticks onto the new pcb's, like the original lcd kit?
Also, on videos like this, a smaller aperture, lots of light, and auto focus off are your friends. The focus seeking on your camera for your zoomed in shots was a little rough.
Hi, do you know what the Letters (A and J) at the backside of each stick mean? best regards :)
Is it normal for them to feel sticky at first?
Lol I had that exact Deckmate impression on mine before I switched to the Killswitch case with Deckmate adapter
I installed these in my deck but had to revert back to the original as they are in a weird "square" active zone. If you go to the controller calibration and testing options, in the deadzone adjustments area, when rotating the original sticks around, you can visibly see that the active area is in a radial pattern, like any normal traditional controller.
When you do the same with the Gulikit, they produce a square pattern, like a flight joystick. Having a square pattern and not a radial one will cause issues when playing third person games or shooters, as when you push 20% northwest on the stick, you are actually inputting about 10% more on a square pattern than you would on a radial pattern, if you get what I'm saying.
Anyways, for me it was messing up fine movements needed in certain games and I went back to the original ones. No amount of calibration will fix this as the problem is with the controller chip on the board of the sticks.
I hope Gulikit address this in a future iteration of this product.
Exactly the comment I was looking for. I won't buy because of the square active zone.
Still a square gate, waiting for a proper circle gate version.
what is the super colorful game you’re playing in this video?
Geometry Wars 3
no orange ones for the special edition?? 😭
Very nice guide, been meaning to do this some time soonish. :)
Do these still have the capacitive touch on the top of the sticks?
Supposedly yes. The capacitive sticks are included in the assembly and there's no need to transfer the old stick to the new stick.
Pay attention to the version that you are buying as this is not compatible if you have the LCD version of the steam deck. Likewise, an the older version of these sticks won't be compatible with the OLED version of the deck.
Is it possible to replace the joystick covers? I don't want to remove my orange and black covers for solid black covers.
@@littlek3000 You should solder it
@@adyamaulana I did! I bought a cheap soldering iron along with the hall effect sticks. I'm sure it's on every SD, but there was a weird rubbery film on the contact pads making it really hard to get through to the actual metal and wires. Not knowing what I should do about it I burned through it with the iron and peeled it off, and for my first soldering job, went really well.
Interesting use of SimCity 3000 music. I don't remember the name, though. I may find it.
What's wrong with the current sticks then?? 🤔🤔
I haven't had any issues with mine, but modern thumbsticks are notorious for accumulating drift.
Why did they switch from philips #1 to Tork T8...
Everyone should switch from Philips. They are century old garbage. If you're after cross shape, go Pozidriv
Because torx is superior.
What's the background music? It's so good.
SimCity 3000 soundtrack. It's incredible
With all these mods and stuff already for the SteamDeck OLED, I really hope that a potential SteamDeck 2 allows us to just drop in the new board into existing systems.
That, and I hope the next SD uses a custom Qualcomm chip instead.
I don't think a Qualcomm chip would make any sense because there's no native arm ports. The battery life might be better, but the performance will suffer greatly.
It's the game at miniature and the second game is the same? What the name of the game?
Geometry Wars: Retro Evolved
Geometry Wars 3: Dimensions Evolved
Not sure if that is the game you are referring to, I think it is though.
@@decisionparalysis7856 This is it!! Thanks! 😄😄
bros deck has the deck mate tan line lmfao
So TLDR if you have drift use these if not don't waste your money .
I'm waiting for the indiegogo ones
For the moment the biggest problem on the Deck, even OLED, is the input latency, even at 90 Hz where it's the less problematic, it's still very very heavy. I really hope steam os 3.6 brings big improvements in that regard, as well as the option to disable vsync again (allow tearing doesn't work since 3.5), and choose between triple OR double buffered vsync.
Fwiw, I've never noticed any latency 🤷
@@gardiner_bryant I'm very latency sensitive, and I can absolutely tell you that latency is insane, even by fixed refresh standards. Try to play that Halo of yours with Gyro aim at 60 Hz and cry, of course with Eye Patch enabled (aka aim assist disabled). (to be clear, you'd need to fully revert to M&K input, since unfortunately the MCC doesn't support mixing controller and mouse inputs)
I never noticed any latency either. Plays absolutely perfect for me on pretty much every game that launches.
@@Alexvander10 That's not helping unfortunately... Even Joshua himself recognizes the issue, what about allow tearing not working for example? The latency is absolutely insane on the Deck, lock a game at 45 FPS (for 90 Hz) and use gyro, you'll notice insane delay, and that's not just because it's "only" 45 FPS.
I'm highly sensitive to latency and I have played Clone Hero on mine with absolutely zero issues.
Clicked on the video thinking maybe it was a magsafe rear shell.
Ah, just hall effect joysticks .. boring.
1st
Dislike for lying.not gonna watch it
Lying? About what?!
It's all about to end, Microsoft has a 16B bid in for Valve
I felt like i was in sim city 3000 again 🥲