I first followed this video to develop HP5+ in 2020, referred to it several times. Now again in 2024 I am developing and I come back to the same video. It's really helpful - deep thanks to you Nico and your team.
thanks for making this video, i havent developed since i was at art college, but your video was very easy to understand. thanks for all your time and effort. i will have a go today
Really appreciate your videos, not everyone has a teacher to show them in real time the process. I use Ilford DD-X three inversions per minute, Delta film Ilford say needs longer to fix than HP 5 so for simplicity I fix all films for five minutes and do the same wash method as you demonstrated, always adding an extra change of water, just like you.
Thanks Stephen. Yeah, T grain film need more washing. I usually fix for 6 minutes all films. But wanted to be as close to the book on this series of videos.
Great video! In my opinion you might agitate to hard and too many times. I would give two more gentle inversions every 30 secs, or else you risk overdeveloping - especially when using stock dilution. That’s what I used to belive, but I see your method is working. I use the standard developers: D76, HC-110 and Rodinal and find them good and economical. I mostly use Tri-X, HP5+ or Acros 100 films. Keep up the good work, Nico! 😊👍🏻
great video, I shoot Kodak Gold 200 and EkTar 100 in 120 roll film, can you show us how to develop these, and maybe some 4x5 sheets (Ilford HP5+) something you would get a beginner to do, aka easy, good shots straight out of the tank, no other darkroom work.
Hey Nico, I recently tried developing Rollei RPX 400 in Rollei RPX dev but I am finding it to be very grainy and harsh looking. I am following the recommended agitation scheme and times. I would very like you to try that combo and see your results. Thank you.
I use standard paterson tank for 2 35mm rolls, so I should use 300ml of product for just 1 roll of 35mm film, If I use a 1L solution of D 76 does it mean that I'm allowed to develop just 3 rolls (and also that I will have 100ml of leftover develop)?
I've heard that you don't need the stop, that you can just wash it of with water and go directly to fixer. Is this a good way of doing it if i dont have any stop?
Do remember that the 17 and 18 are bonis! So dont take the most important shots there. After 18 i just fire away until the film sounds likes its spooled on the other side.
I wouldn't reccomend that, (120 into a 220 insert); 220 has NO backing paper, 120 HAS backing paper, so the film plate COULD jam the film, or worst case fly the film free, therefore allowing it to bow slightly, affecting the focal point of the image, as the mirror/etc. is calibrated on this theory, that the focus plane(film plane) is a constant distance from the rear lens of the camera, so EVERY photo's focus could NOT be guaranteed.
I think I’ll send my film to get developed, seems rather easy to screw up. Great video though, I never knew how involved this stuff was, I always wondered about it since my grand father had a dark room
D-76 is commonly used as a stock solution, 1:1, or 1:2, adjusting development time to accommodate for the extent of dilution. Generally speaking, the longer dilution will give a slightly faster film speed, better sharpness, and finer grain, however these differences are quite small and hard to observe without careful analysis. Diluted working solutions should be used only once, then discarded. This gives you a far more consistent processing, but may also give fewer rolls processed for a given amount of developer. For the years I used D-76, I favored the 1:2 dilution. For its reliable consistency, I always prefer one-shot usage over multiple reuse of stock developer, or even worse, stock developer with replenishment.
Ilford sells a kit which includes a developer, stop bath and fixer. Its target purchaser is a small volume user just trying B&W DIY photo processing. Its downside is that it is relatively expensive for the small amount of product included. Ilford calls this kit "Simplicity".
If you mean, can you develop Ilford film in Kodak D-76 developer, the answer is sure you can. In fact, Ilford sells a developer, ID-11, which is the same formula as D-76. Some developers may have particular effects on a specific film which are deemed good or bad, but that has nothing to do with who makes the developer.
I only prewash with my Jobo, not usually during hand inversions. Also the fingers has been fine with me before. I rather fingers than the normal film squeegee, but a Chamois is a good idea.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Hey Nico, my friend is a pro photographer, he did it the same way as you for decades. He always told me to use the fingers not a squeegee to avoid scratching the film. I will go with your way and my friend's way...:)
@@NicosPhotographyShow Yes, it was the most popular in the past, when the price of a roll was a quarter of a euro, and there were companies ORWO - SVEMA- Tesma - Forte _ Efek - Tudor - These companies used to make inexpensive films, and the D76 spread is not because of its quality, but because it is cheap and easy to make. If you are buying a movie for a quarter of a dollar, you have to develop $ 0.1, which is a popular reason (D76). It is a developer without feelings. Why not try FX-10, Calbi-49, Kalgon or Agfa.14?
@@NicosPhotographyShow After the period of medical isolation that the world is going through ends, I can send you a number of developers that you have not heard about before and you will be able to provide valuable and meaningful videos, The problem is that you send me who receives this photochemistry in Egypt. I really don't know! I also have the process (Agfa Scala) that converts the negative film into positive transparency (black and white). I have great experiences and developers while wasting your time on experiment (D76). ! What are you doing, my dear brother? I am preparing photochemistry from scratch and selling it at a symbolic price to Egyptian hobbyists, and I have been able to break the taboos that were previously sacred and from them (D76) this lie has been shattered, Egyptian amateurs are now talking about Agfa 14 and Agfa 11 and many wonderful formulas Another great thing that I told you about earlier.
Why are you being pretentious? The fact that he is even making these videos for people who need to learn, is a god send. Where are your live instructional videos, oh wise one?
@@jdebultra where did I mention grain? I like the tonality and contrast I get to be honest. I dont mind being like others, you seem to use it as if it was bad. Also let me tell you I enjoy all comments, just wish you could elaborate instead of repeating the use of...
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
Sorry for the bad audio, we didnt realize audio was not as it should. Wont happen again.
Nicos Photography Show Nega-Nico will have your tongue for this!
I hope he can forgive my mistake ;)
It’s fine with headphones... didn’t notice
I first followed this video to develop HP5+ in 2020, referred to it several times. Now again in 2024 I am developing and I come back to the same video. It's really helpful - deep thanks to you Nico and your team.
This is why I made this video!! Want to try and get back to more simple but helpful tutorials.
thanks for making this video, i havent developed since i was at art college, but your video was very easy to understand. thanks for all your time and effort. i will have a go today
This is truly a useful video. I plan to develop TRI-X soon. Thank you so much. RS. Canada
Really appreciate your videos, not everyone has a teacher to show them in real time the process. I use Ilford DD-X three inversions per minute, Delta film Ilford say needs longer to fix than HP 5 so for simplicity I fix all films for five minutes and do the same wash method as you demonstrated, always adding an extra change of water, just like you.
Thanks Stephen. Yeah, T grain film need more washing. I usually fix for 6 minutes all films. But wanted to be as close to the book on this series of videos.
Great video! In my opinion you might agitate to hard and too many times. I would give two more gentle inversions every 30 secs, or else you risk overdeveloping - especially when using stock dilution. That’s what I used to belive, but I see your method is working. I use the standard developers: D76, HC-110 and Rodinal and find them good and economical. I mostly use Tri-X, HP5+ or Acros 100 films. Keep up the good work, Nico! 😊👍🏻
Bernt Sønvisen he said he was following an instruction sheet at the beginning from Kodak.
Nicole thank you for going through the whole process and not speeding up. 🙏🏾
Thank you. Its been a while for me.
Hope this helped!
great video, I shoot Kodak Gold 200 and EkTar 100 in 120 roll film, can you show us how to develop these, and maybe some 4x5 sheets (Ilford HP5+) something you would get a beginner to do, aka easy, good shots straight out of the tank, no other darkroom work.
Man I want one of those clocks, they're such '70s elegance
I only use it for this series. But its too cool not to show.
@@davec5330 specially in the USA, in Spain (where Im from) they are hard to find.
Can you done video using the monobath from cinestill? Really would appreciate it.
helpful video, thanks
I have told myself I will not use anything except D76 ever in my life 😆 👏 🙏
Not a bad plan. ;)
Who did you suggest to watch for more high agitation development, top something?
Topshit Photography by Borut Peterlin
on massive dev chart and on my d76 bag, it says for kodak tri-x 400 to develop for 6.75 minutes, what’s different about this film?
An answer to this would be pretty interesting! We also struggle why he talks about 8min.
These are great videos
Thank you Nicholas!
thanks very much!! do you let the negatives completely air dry, or do you use a squeegee before letting it dry?
I always air dry, no squeegee for me as I have scratched the emulsion before.
Hey Nico, I recently tried developing Rollei RPX 400 in Rollei RPX dev but I am finding it to be very grainy and harsh looking. I am following the recommended agitation scheme and times. I would very like you to try that combo and see your results. Thank you.
are you talking about Kodak HC 110 as alternative for more contrast?
Who is the guy you mentioned that develop his film with deep contrast?
Topshit Photography by Borut Peterlin
I use standard paterson tank for 2 35mm rolls, so I should use 300ml of product for just 1 roll of 35mm film, If I use a 1L solution of D 76 does it mean that I'm allowed to develop just 3 rolls (and also that I will have 100ml of leftover develop)?
I've heard that you don't need the stop, that you can just wash it of with water and go directly to fixer. Is this a good way of doing it if i dont have any stop?
Am I correct in thinking that one liter will develop four rolls of film?
Very informative, thank you. So do I understand correctly, If I load my 120 film into my 220 back of my Pentax 645 I'll get 17 shots instead of 15?
Thanks Mike! Yeah, I load it a tad less (the arrow not aligned to the indication) and get almost 18 shots...
@@NicosPhotographyShow Very cool! I'll try it on my next shoot. Thank you.
Do remember that the 17 and 18 are bonis! So dont take the most important shots there. After 18 i just fire away until the film sounds likes its spooled on the other side.
I wouldn't reccomend that, (120 into a 220 insert); 220 has NO backing paper, 120 HAS backing paper, so the film plate COULD jam the film, or worst case fly the film free, therefore allowing it to bow slightly, affecting the focal point of the image, as the mirror/etc. is calibrated on this theory, that the focus plane(film plane) is a constant distance from the rear lens of the camera, so EVERY photo's focus could NOT be guaranteed.
I think I’ll send my film to get developed, seems rather easy to screw up.
Great video though, I never knew how involved this stuff was, I always wondered about it since my grand father had a dark room
Thanks! It's a lot to do but fairly simple after you try it a few times.
Did you make the video on making a gallon?
I have to make it. Covid hit and lost my assistant (cant come to the studio).
I can’t find the PDF that you attached below.
I am yet to try D-76 and after watching this video I am sold. What dilution do you recommend ? 1:1 ?
Yeah, 1:1 is a good compromise.
D-76 is commonly used as a stock solution, 1:1, or 1:2, adjusting development time to accommodate for the extent of dilution. Generally speaking, the longer dilution will give a slightly faster film speed, better sharpness, and finer grain, however these differences are quite small and hard to observe without careful analysis. Diluted working solutions should be used only once, then discarded. This gives you a far more consistent processing, but may also give fewer rolls processed for a given amount of developer. For the years I used D-76, I favored the 1:2 dilution. For its reliable consistency, I always prefer one-shot usage over multiple reuse of stock developer, or even worse, stock developer with replenishment.
Do rodinal next
Will order some ;)
Nicos Photography Show sweet. Be safe out there
D-76 is not so easy to find. And so for the time chart Pdf From Kodak. have you some advice on that? Thanks. great video
Kodak has been having issues with chemical supplies as of late. I would suggest trying some Adox or Ilford if you can access them.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Thanks
Do those chemicals come in some sort of kit or do you buy them separately only?
Ilford sells a kit which includes a developer, stop bath and fixer. Its target purchaser is a small volume user just trying B&W DIY photo processing. Its downside is that it is relatively expensive for the small amount of product included. Ilford calls this kit "Simplicity".
@@randallstewart1224Thanks. I've actually used it. Love it its just pricey.
Nicos I need your help, I just mix up a pack of D76 and the mix came out brown is the good to use, or is it not good?
I have heard Kodak having the brown issue, but aslo heard it wont be a big issue. At least they said that on the Dektol.
Can I develop Ilford with this D76? What are the measurements for 1 roll?
If you mean, can you develop Ilford film in Kodak D-76 developer, the answer is sure you can. In fact, Ilford sells a developer, ID-11, which is the same formula as D-76. Some developers may have particular effects on a specific film which are deemed good or bad, but that has nothing to do with who makes the developer.
Not your usual sound quality, not sure what happened...
I know. Mic must have been off or similar.
Seems fine
Good but I would use a pre-wash for one minute, a Speed Wash and a Chamois to wipe the film before hanging it up, never, ever use your fingers.
I only prewash with my Jobo, not usually during hand inversions. Also the fingers has been fine with me before. I rather fingers than the normal film squeegee, but a Chamois is a good idea.
@@NicosPhotographyShow I just recommended you and your videos, especially this one to a Film Developing group that I am on, on Facebook.
@@mamiyapress thank you!
@@NicosPhotographyShow Hey Nico, my friend is a pro photographer, he did it the same way as you for decades. He always told me to use the fingers not a squeegee to avoid scratching the film. I will go with your way and my friend's way...:)
Why did you agitate for the first minute? Kodak doesn't recommend that.
I have always done so. Will check the pdf but I dont recall seeing it mentioned.
@@NicosPhotographyShow I believe that it's 30 seconds for the first agitation. You neg seems to be contrasty, there is not too much information on it.
Using the developer (D76) with this film is like wearing the most luxurious suit and the shoe is a bathroom slippers.
Failed experiment with choice
Why would you say that? D76 has been the most popular developer for decades.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Yes, it was the most popular in the past, when the price of a roll was a quarter of a euro, and there were companies
ORWO - SVEMA- Tesma - Forte _ Efek - Tudor -
These companies used to make inexpensive films, and the D76 spread is not because of its quality, but because it is cheap and easy to make.
If you are buying a movie for a quarter of a dollar, you have to develop $ 0.1, which is a popular reason (D76).
It is a developer without feelings.
Why not try FX-10, Calbi-49, Kalgon or Agfa.14?
@@NicosPhotographyShow
After the period of medical isolation that the world is going through ends, I can send you a number of developers that you have not heard about before and you will be able to provide valuable and meaningful videos,
The problem is that you send me who receives this photochemistry in Egypt. I really don't know!
I also have the process (Agfa Scala) that converts the negative film into positive transparency (black and white).
I have great experiences and developers while wasting your time on experiment (D76). !
What are you doing, my dear brother?
I am preparing photochemistry from scratch and selling it at a symbolic price to Egyptian hobbyists, and I have been able to break the taboos that were previously sacred and from them (D76) this lie has been shattered, Egyptian amateurs are now talking about Agfa 14 and Agfa 11 and many wonderful formulas Another great thing that I told you about earlier.
Why are you being pretentious? The fact that he is even making these videos for people who need to learn, is a god send.
Where are your live instructional videos, oh wise one?
Too much agitation...
What do you suggest?
@@NicosPhotographyShow don't over agitate
@@jdebultra never noticed issues with my prints due to my developing. But I guess you think differently, and thats ok.
@@NicosPhotographyShow well you replied starting out about grain.... ok you are like all the other youtubers..
@@jdebultra where did I mention grain? I like the tonality and contrast I get to be honest. I dont mind being like others, you seem to use it as if it was bad. Also let me tell you I enjoy all comments, just wish you could elaborate instead of repeating the use of...