Hey those resistors are orange black black brown brown 3000 Because blue is 6 So you said 3660 It's all goods we know what you mean. Quick question The power plug did leave it out and remove Ars light from the cluster
@@kyleb9807 To be honest, it's so long ago that I can't remember sorry! I also covered them with heat shrink, so can't take a look either. Yup, so the power plug for the rack is what activates the ARS, so with that disconnected, the ARS light shows up on the dash. I decided to just take the light out of the dash.
@@kyleb9807 I actually just found the resistors I used and put a photo in my community feed. Looks like you're right, Orange, black, black, brown, brown.
Do you happen to know how much the steering rack moves from side to side, since you seem to have it disassembled? I already ordered the type A inner rack heads to my 1998 Aristo with type B (38mm rack), since some local fellow had put ones in his 97-99 Aristo and did not have any problems, but I started to wonder if it is possible to have some interference issues if I use 42mm inner ends in the 38mm rack, although the ends don't seem to hit the rack while it is straight. Local Toyota dealer tells that they would not fit, but I don't know who to believe. I also have a lockout bar ready just in case, but I would like to keep my car as original as possible.
@LockieNZ No worries, and thanks for the reply! Upon closer inspection, it seems that my rack is also broken, and therefore, my question became irrelevant.
Great work!... How hard is it to remove the factory ars and replace with lockout bar? Did you drop the subframe or just unbolt and pull out from one side?... About to replace mines. Thanks
Unfortunately you have to drop the rear subframe, so it's a bit of a pain! If you're thinking of replacing the diff or subframe bushes at some point, I'd do them all at once
@@LockieNZ I was planning on putting the car on Jack stands and drop the subframe enough to clear the ars for removal and install Lockout bar. I also have a engine hoist, I can lift the rear a bit higher if needed... Something will work out...👍
Yup, does need a cert. It's one of those mods where if it goes wrong because it's badly produced or engineered, it could cause a pretty nasty accident.
Hey, sure is. Just saw they cut off the link to the ones I used in the description! Was able to check the link and confirmed thats the one www.jaycar.co.nz/3k-ohm-0-5-watt-metal-film-resistors-pack-of-8/p/RR0583?pos=5&queryId=9a9a271fe3cf6c3e0b800c98aa7ab60e&sort=relevance#
Another small channel hero
Hey those resistors are orange black black brown brown
3000
Because blue is 6
So you said 3660
It's all goods we know what you mean.
Quick question
The power plug did leave it out and remove Ars light from the cluster
@@kyleb9807 To be honest, it's so long ago that I can't remember sorry! I also covered them with heat shrink, so can't take a look either.
Yup, so the power plug for the rack is what activates the ARS, so with that disconnected, the ARS light shows up on the dash. I decided to just take the light out of the dash.
@@kyleb9807 I actually just found the resistors I used and put a photo in my community feed. Looks like you're right, Orange, black, black, brown, brown.
hey I reed youre coment on Briana's video and it sound ... interesting
Do you happen to know how much the steering rack moves from side to side, since you seem to have it disassembled?
I already ordered the type A inner rack heads to my 1998 Aristo with type B (38mm rack), since some local fellow had put ones in his 97-99 Aristo and did not have any problems, but I started to wonder if it is possible to have some interference issues if I use 42mm inner ends in the 38mm rack, although the ends don't seem to hit the rack while it is straight. Local Toyota dealer tells that they would not fit, but I don't know who to believe.
I also have a lockout bar ready just in case, but I would like to keep my car as original as possible.
Hey, sorry I missed your comment. I can't say that I have any idea sorry!
@LockieNZ No worries, and thanks for the reply! Upon closer inspection, it seems that my rack is also broken, and therefore, my question became irrelevant.
Great work!... How hard is it to remove the factory ars and replace with lockout bar? Did you drop the subframe or just unbolt and pull out from one side?... About to replace mines. Thanks
Unfortunately you have to drop the rear subframe, so it's a bit of a pain!
If you're thinking of replacing the diff or subframe bushes at some point, I'd do them all at once
@@LockieNZ Oh man didn't want to drop the subframe... But if it's the only way to do it...I will do as you suggested. Thanks again 👍
@@jasonrambally5801 Good luck. It's easier if you have a friend with a workshop!
It sits on top of the subframe and there just isn't enough room :(
@@LockieNZ I was planning on putting the car on Jack stands and drop the subframe enough to clear the ars for removal and install Lockout bar. I also have a engine hoist, I can lift the rear a bit higher if needed... Something will work out...👍
Just done one on jackstands was about an hour
Do you need to have cert for lock out bar
Yup, does need a cert. It's one of those mods where if it goes wrong because it's badly produced or engineered, it could cause a pretty nasty accident.
Is it the 3k ohm 0.5 watt?😁
Hey, sure is. Just saw they cut off the link to the ones I used in the description! Was able to check the link and confirmed thats the one
www.jaycar.co.nz/3k-ohm-0-5-watt-metal-film-resistors-pack-of-8/p/RR0583?pos=5&queryId=9a9a271fe3cf6c3e0b800c98aa7ab60e&sort=relevance#