Super Duty Rear Axle JUNKYARD E Locker Swap!
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- My Ford 10.5" Sterling needed a locker... So I decided to retrofit a 2011+ super duty factory electric locker in to my older axle!
This is a factory electric locker swap from a junkyard axle or can be purchased as a Ford replacement part. I don't install a new ring and pinion here because I haven't bought them yet haha. be sure to check and adjust your gears after doing this swap!
For those of you wondering why not just swap the whole axle:
-Fewer gear ratios available for the 2011+ axles (only down to 4.88 vs 5.38s for the older axles)
-It's a metric lug pattern (8 on 170mm) for the newer vs the older (pre-1999) axles which are standard 8 on 6.5
-The ABS system for the older axle uses a tone ring on the carrier (same as my Dakota) while the newer axles use tone rings on the wheel hubs 👍
This locker fits in ALL of the previous Sterling 10.25/10.5" full float axles. Just takes some bolting, drilling, and some spare electrons!
Thanks for checking out the videos. Subscribe to keep track of what we're doing here!
Not sure how I even came across this video. I had just ordered a Yukon grizzly locker for 680 bucks for my 10.5. Seen your video canceled my order found a 2012 with e locker at the local junk yard for 500. Saved me 180 bucks and got me a selectable locker. Much appreciated! Good job on the videos. I really enjoy your videos no flash or wiz bag just basic info. Keep up the good work.
Glad that you're enjoying the videos! And that's awesome to hear it saved you some money 👍 There are so many channels just trying to push you towards buying stuff but I'm trying to do things differently even if eventually I miss out on sponsor money haha. Spread the word! Thanks again!
Would have spent the extra 180 and had a stronger locker🤷🏻♂️
@American.Divergent 4 years later and still no problems. All around the hammers and once on the Rubicon and who knows where els at this point. I'm happy with the return on investment. I'm also running an eaton electric selectable in the front SD60 as well. 07 Tacoma SAS with a 4.0 on 40s. Probably why they live.
For a selectable locker you're paying at least double the price of these lockers - and that's if you buy it new rather than finding a good used I've. Detroit lockers and other auto lockers are great but I prefer selectable for anything that's street-driven
Glad to hear it's still working good for you! Same here 👍
That setup through the gland isn't sealed. Gear oil and/or water will wick down the middle of the heat shrink in the space between the two wires. Those cable glands are only liquid tight when used with waterproof cable (which typically have a solid rubber jacket around the conductors, not a sheath). I'd at least slather some RTV on the wires before heat shrinking them together to take up that space if you don't want to wait to order cable.
Yeah it occurred to me about a week ago that there's still an open path between the wires. Good call on the RTV before heat shrinking. Comment pinned so that people will see that tip. Thanks! 👍
@@WebWheeler A marine grade heat shrink will have an adhesive lining inside that melts when you shrink it, creating a liquid-proof seal throughout. You can pick some up at Harbor Freight or almost anywhere that sells regular heat shrink tubing, it's great stuff for any kind of exterior electrical connections!
Good to know! Thanks a lot for the tip 👍
In order for those types of gland seal to work the cable needs to be round. Go to Home Depot and get some 2 wire SOOW and run one length from the dash through the gland and it will seal very well. Till it gets old and breaks off due to heat.
You answered several of my questions.my electronic rear lockers are non functional. now I can brave the rain mud, and solve the problem. I have a 2012 ft 2012 4x4. thanks bud 👍
Thanks for watching! 🍻
Why isn’t this one of the top mods and why hasn’t every youtuber copied ur video yet? 👍 great job
Because all the big RUclipsrs just hit up companies for new parts for free or get sponsored and have to use that stuff haha. As I grow this channel I'm focused keep it independent and honest rather than being a shill for the industry so subscribe and stay tuned! 🤘 Thanks for the support I really appreciate it
I’m wondering how the solder seal connections have turned out after 5 years. If you’ve even finished the project and thoroughly used it. I’ve used the solder seal on wiring repairs before and after a couple years of hot and cold the solder joints all broke and I had to warranty the repairs for every customer and every single connector I used. I’m just wondering if the quality of the products have improved considering I’m probably not the only person who has had this problem. I know a lot of people reading this will tear me apart for this comment because I don’t solder and heat shrink everything but, in fords technical service information, they suggest all wire repairs be done with uninsulated crimp connectors covered with adhesive lined shrink tube. If it’s good enough for a factory warranty, it’s good enough for me. Every pcm wire pin and every connector in every vehicle has a crimped connection so it can’t be all that bad. Never had a come back on any wiring repairs in 10 years. And I do thousands per year.
Excellent video!
Thanks Matthew! hope you stick around and see what else I've got coming 😎
The best upgrade I ever did to any vehicle is just get rid of the ABS that wakes up a vehicle and the added safety of having reliable and positive competent brakes is amazing.
Or if it’s an old ford having rear brakes that do stuff besides lock up all the time is super cool to. Get rid of it, spend some money on a solid system and there amazingly buttery smooth.
I keep thinking of using one of these E-lockers but I haven’t found one yet. They seem to be basically Eaton E-locker units. Looks like they should work pretty damn good.
Dont know how i missed this comment so sorry for the late response. The lockers can be found new for pretty cheap- see the pinned comment on the video. Hope that helps! yeah they are pretty close to the Eaton's in every way. I have an Eaton in front and this in the rear- outside of some manufacturing processes they seem to be pretty similar. Thanks for watching!
@@WebWheelerhow much is pretty cheap? The comment you pinned isn't there for where to find these lockers new
Weird- comment must have been deleted. TascaParts.com is where the best price was but I can't find the part number at the moment
nice work ya made it look easy
Yeah this one went pretty smooth haha. There was some head scratching at a few points but that doesn't make for great footage haha. thanks for watching!
Why not install the whole rearend?
Fewer gear ratios available for the 2011+ axles (only down to 4.88 vs 5.38s for the older axles,) it's a metric lug pattern for the newer vs the older (pre-1999) axles which are standard, and the ABS system for the older axle uses a tone ring on the carrier (same as my Dakota) while the newer axles use tone rings on the wheel hub 👍
I've been wanting to do this to my 06 f350 and hook it up to one of the factory aux switches. Now I just need to hunt down an axle
Yeah it's pretty easy to do once you find the locker haha good luck! Thanks for watching 👍
I would like to get this done to my 2005f350 truck so I just gotta get a rear end like that with the electric locker and swap it like that no problems
I'm just wondering if it'll fit any help out there also I was thinking of a front diff locker like this one
@@allenw1936 As long as your F350 has single rear wheels, this locker will fit fine in your current rear axle- it'll be there same as the one I used here. According to some other comments, the locker could mess with your ABS sensor when the locker is activated but I haven't verified that myself. And as for your front axle, I don't know of any junkyard lockers but there are tons of aftermarket lockers for the Dana 60 that will work great (Eaton E locker for example if you want both electric.) Good luck!
@@WebWheeler Will you need to check the mesh (backlash) if the gear ratios are the same from the donor axle ?
Thanks for the information. I see now If I upgrade a vehicle with an e-locker, I don’t need the tone ring on the axle if I have a differential with a tone ring.
Awesome video, I guess I have to look for one of these bad boys now 😎 good stuff!!
Thanks man! Yeah it's a nice option if you don't want to deal with the air system or the price haha👍
This video convinced me to take the plunge on my '02 Excursion. Parts are in the mail from a dealer that I'm assuming is just drop shipping from some Ford parts warehouse. All those dudes (Tasca and the like) have it for around $500-520, shipped. Master rebuild kit is like $200. Gonna be a bunch of other BS involved, but still under $1k TOTAL for an e-locker is BONKERS.
I think we've all read the same 3 threads on Pirate and some Full Size Bronco forum. Did you or anyone else ever really get to the bottom of the constant 12V thing?
I know that a guy on pirate left his wired straight to a battery for 3 full days and it never got anywhere near normal gear oil temps (I think it got a little over 100* at the hottest part). That's all I cared to know haha. Thanks for watching! Help me out and spread the word 😎
I say there sharp as a bowling ball thanks for the video it was fun hell I think I'm going to go out and buy me a Ford
Haha thanks a lot! I'm going to remember "sharp as a bowling ball" haha
Can confirm this works. Installed in my 91' F350 Sterling axle and wired to a switch. Easy peasy. Been beating on it with 40s
Awesome! Thanks for reporting back about it 👍
@@WebWheeler no prob! It is a fkcn awesome /cheap upgrade! I wish I could get for the front Kingpin 60
Yeah it's hard to believe that with all the Dana 60/70 axles used for all those years by all three makes, none came with a true locker from the factory haha. 14 bolts had Detroit's but the Dana stuff was always just limited slips
@@WebWheeler have you confirmed that 5.13s will fit in older Sterling axles (91') using the newer Ford Elocker?
Haven't done it myself (my housing is a 2006 which fits) but from what I've researched the Sterling's all use the same ring gear bolts so just buy the gears/bearing kit for the '91 axle and you're good to go!
Have you had any issues with the solenoid itself? From what I’ve read, it will burn up running constant 12v from the battery. It has something like a 40% duty cycle. Supposedly, you have to run a pwm after actuation to hold it closed.
Never heard of any issues with it, all I've seen was a guy on pirate4x4 that left his hooked up directly to a battery for 3 days and it didn't hurt it. That was enough proof for me! I will release an update video if i ever have issues though. Thanks for watching! 👍
How to identify what your looking for and straight into how to perform each task with clear angles... fuck if only every video was this good
Thanks man! Appreciate it 🍻
I'm swapping 05+ axles into a 96' Bronco and need the VSS. I never thought about the magnetic field killing the spedo, that would really mess up the transmission shifting as well. Well, so much for this option...
Yeah I'm not sure what that's going to do to my abs system... Guess I'll find out! If it's a problem I will have to go to an ARB or OX locker
@@WebWheeler Yah let me know -- good idea.
Keep watching the videos- I will definitely talk about it when I find out how it works!
WebWheeler you got it bud! Sub’d.
Probably cheaper just to throw a tone ring on the output shaft of your tcase and get a pulse converter to give it what the pcm wants - this is of course if turning on the locker kills the ABS
That's a great idea... Good call!
Right on! Wanted an ELocker in my 10.25 for awhile. I have a Sterling in my 1976 Ford-gear ratio was right, and the price. Off topic, but could you swap out the axles and ends to the older style to get away from the Metric lug setup? Either way, now I know its Possible. Thank You.
No problem! The hubs won't swap over from the older axles to the newer axles but the locker will for in the older 8 on 6.5 axles. If you want the newer disc brake setup you could also redrill the 8 on 170 hub to 8 on 6.5- the hubs have plenty of material for that 👍
I need a locker so bad! And traction bars!
Awsome video man I bought 01 250 axles to go on my f150 broke the spiders in the 8.8 with 47s and 5.13s doing a burnout lol I was gonna go with a Detroit locker and 5.38s but now seeing this video I may go this route depending on if I can get a good price on one
Thanks man! I'm surprised you even got the tires broken loose with 46s on an 8.8 lol. You can get lucky with that diff at a junkyard but there's a pinned comment that should get you a new locker for a decent price too. Good luck!
Great video! Just the confirmation I was seeking. Question? Can you just wire up to a normal 12V rocker switch? or do you need a Relay or PWM ? I have a Sterling 10.25 in my Jeep. No ABS or fancy electronics.. Thanks
Worked just fine for me with a regular toggle switch rated for 20A. I believe the current draw is around 5 amps so if your switch is rated for less than that just throw a relay in there and you're good!
Thanks for posting this! Before I go this route, I wanted your opinion on how reliable it is off-road. Have you wheel it yet?
I haven't yet- just starting to build the truck that locker is going in but I read quite a bit about it on pirate4x4 (like a true web wheeler haha). Those guys push their stuff hard and seems to be holding up. Plus you figure the lockers are designed to handle the powerstroke which is 400+ HP and 800+lbs/ft haha. I will let you guys know when I get some miles on it!
As far as electric lockers in general, they are more reliable than air lockers in my experience because it just needs 12 volts (obviously that's reliable otherwise your truck isn't running anyway haha) some wire to carry the load, and the mechanism is magnetic which is just physics haha.
Air lockers on the other hand need 12 volts to the compressor, air lines to bring the compressed air to the locker, the air seal in the locker to be in good shape, then the whole system needs to hold 100 psi to keep the locker engaged. They're great when they're working and they're generally reliable but there's just a lot of places for something to go wrong. Just my 2 cents haha. Thanks a lot for checking out the video!
Awesome response, I appreciate it! Good luck and I will keep an eye out for any updates.
My e locker just came in the mail (figured I’d get a new one cause it’s only $515 shipped and people sayin they get em from the junkyard for $500). Where did you get the cable gland? I’m tryin to find it in a conventional store cause shipping is getting delayed everywhere but I’m having no luck so far.
Wow that's a good price for the locker- where did you find that? I got the cable glands at Amazon but I imagine Home Depot/Lowe's or an electronics store might have them? Good luck!
WebWheeler ford parts giant, as long as you know your part number you can get any oem part, down to a single bolt. (Part number for the locker is BC3Z-4026-B for anyone else in the future). And dang that’s what I figured. Great video, it helps out a lot
Good to know! Thanks a lot man I appreciate it. Check eBay for those cable glands- I was looking for some bearings last night and Amazon was a month out but eBay sellers could get them to me in 3 days 👍
i knew i needed 1 darn it
Lol that's what I thought when I found out about them
Awesome!!
You da man
YOU da man for watching! 😎
I have one of these in my f250 wondering about getting another one form the wrecking yard and trying to put in my front axle as well
Won't work in the front- it's a Dana 60 and this locker only fits the sterling. Lots of aftermarket lockers available for the dana 60 front though 👍
Nice!!
Thanks for watching! 👍
I can change oil!
Nice video! You didn't have to adjust the mesh of the ring and pinion during the swap??? Thanks
That does need to be done- I will be changing the gear ratio so I didn't bother when doing this swap. I will make a video about swapping gears soon 👍
So why didn’t you just use the entire other axle?
The lowest gears you can get for the 2011+ axles are 4.88s and I need 5.38s. Otherwise the newer axle would be the way to go haha. Thanks for watching!
also 8x170
Did you just apply 12v to see if locker worked properly. My E locker is stuck and want to tes
Yep just 12V straight to it haha. Worked fine for this locker at least
Great video why not run the wires through the diff cover
Through the housing is tucked away a little more plus if I want to test/inspect the locker with the cover off then I don't have to deal with moving the wires around. Thanks for watching!
How’d the pinion to ring gear contact patch change when you added the tone ring to the new center section?
No change- the tone ring presses onto the outside edge of the ring gear flange so it doesn't affect where the ring gear sits. No gear mesh adjustment required. Thanks for watching!
Hey man awesome vid inspired me to do the same and as luck would have it i pulled an e locker out of an 2011 f350 today and just a few questions one being did you get new shims for the install or what set of shims did you use the ones out of the 06 axle or the ones out of the new axle
Glad to hear it helped you out! I reused the ones that were in the old housing just to keep it a roller but I plan on swapping gears before running it so I haven't bothered to check backlash or anything. With the new gears I will install new bearings and the correct shims. I'll have a video of that when it happens too 👍 thanks for watching!
Hi quick question for you, I'm considering putting this type of locker in my 1997 F-350 10.25 rear. Will the old 10.25 4.10 ring gear work on the new carrier Alright? Also how many spline is the new locking carrier? Thank you Nathan
Hey Nathan. Yeah your old ring gear will work on the new carrier. You'll need to set up the gears again (different shims probably) but the gears are interchangeable. The new locker is also 35 spline shafts just like the old Sterling's 👍 thanks for watching!
Awesome that's what I needed to know. Thanks for getting back with me I appreciate it.
Hey man, I picked up a 10.5 super duty axle from a 2005. I haven’t pulled the cover yet but it does have that same plug on the top of the differential. With that mean that it might have an E locker in it?
Elocker wasn't available until 2011 so the plug you have is most likely the abs sensor plug
My understating of rear ends isn’t that extensive. If you have a 3.55 geared diff with the elocker, and you do the swap step by step in your video. I would then have 3.55 gears and not the current 3.73. Correct?
The ring and pinion gears always have to stay as a matched set so in this case I swapped the ring gear from my old differential on to the elocker so that it stays with the pinion that's in my axle housing. After the differential swap, the gears also need to have the backlash and pinion depth adjusted (even though they're the same gears as were matched before) because of machining variation between the two carriers. That's a whole video in itself though which I will be releasing when I swap my gears. Hope that makes sense! Thanks for watching
Were you able to put in lower gears? I'm looking to do 5.13 or lower gears and would love to use a factory locker.
Yeah I have 5.13's in my Dakota now. You can go as low as 5.38's in the Sterling 10.25/10.5 axles made up until 2010. 2011+ only goes to 4.88 gears. However, the factory locker started in 2011 so you'll have to swap the locker in to a 2010 or older axle like I did to get the lower gears and factory locker. Hope that makes sense!
@@WebWheeler yeah the 5.13+ gears at only in the 10.25" ring gears far as I can tell and require a special master kit, likely for special bearings
You just need to use the 10.25" install kit if you're putting 5.13+ gears in the 1999-2010 10.5 axles. Nothing special- worked for me! 👍
@@WebWheeler great video ,could you send me the gear product number for the 5.13 you used and is that factory locker the only size like for different gear ratio?
Why not use the whole newer axle rather than swapping did I miss something??
Check the other comments- I've gone in to more detail there but basically the older axle ABS setup matches my Dakota and gear ratio options 👍
hey man, this is super awesome, just curious on what speed it would be safe to go to? ive had several 2015+ F series trucks with the locker and they all come off at 40km/h. (Canada, Eh?) is this for safety or just to cover their ass? its pretty inconvenient that you cant spin the tires with it in. thanks!
Thanks! Yeah the computer turns the locker off around 25mph here in the states as well. I believe this is mainly for safety- if you accidentally leave the locker engaged and try to drive backcountry roads (lots of turns, usually 35-50 mph speed limit) you'll quickly start having traction issues. The locker will cause the rear end to slide out or potentially understeer through turns. I actually think 25 mph is a good speed to turn off the locker anyway. If you're going faster than that, the locker likely isn't helping and actually makes it easier for to lose traction with both tires. If you're spinning tires though, it's nice to not have the auto disconnect for sure haha
Got my elocked housing ready to go. One question about the seals... wouldn't gear oil get out where you routed the wires through? It doesn't seem to have anything there to stop gear oil from making its way out with the wires. Or am I missing something there?
The cable glands I used have a seal to keep gear oil out but you could always use a little RTV as some extra peace of mind 👍
It's a PG-7 thread
Hey web wheeler, did you hook one wire from the electric locker to ground on the frame and one to the hot on the battery,? or did you hook both wires to the battery, neg and pos sides?? I'm fixing to wire mine and I'd appreciate the info, thank you.
Either would work fine as long as you have a good ground. Easiest way would be positive -> switch -> locker -> frame for ground. Good luck! Thanks for watching 👍
Wow
Hey, I'm new to this e locker thing. Did you keep and reuse the same shims and keep the exact thickness on each side?? Did you have to adjust back lash after you installed the locker?? Did the tone ring get clamped in place by the ring gear or did it have a slight interference fit to hold it in place? Thanks in advance for your answers. I'm gonna attempt this myself very soon.
I installed the shims from the housing I used. That would be your starting point, then you need to pattern the gears and adjust them accordingly. Count on needing to reset the gears after swapping in the locker. I am swapping gears that I didn't have yet so I didn't bother setting the old gears back up at the time.
The tone ring was just an interference fit on the locker which should be plenty to keep it from spinning. I got it started with a mallet then it pressed on when I tightened down the ring gear. If you don't feel its enough, you could use a dremel tool or die grinder and relieve the locker to reuse the tab on the tone ring.
I will be posting an update video about this locker setup when I get everything rolling so subscribe to keep in the loop! Thanks for watching and good luck with the swap!
@@WebWheeler Thanks for the info. I'm actually going to 4.56 gears because I have 37" tires on my f350. I'm a machinist by trade so I'm gonna measure the difference between the two ring gears and subtract the difference from the shims to get me in the ball park to start.
Don't forget to measure the difference between your current carrier and the new E locker from bearing seat face to ring gear mount face. That will help dial in how much difference you have from the old to new setup 👍 I grew up in my uncle's machine shop and it has helped a ton with clarifying this kind of thing!
Great video! Will this work on an f350 cab and chassis axle?
As long as it's the single rear wheel Sterling full float, you should be good 👍 if it's the dually, that's a Dana 80 and isn't compatible. Good luck!
Hey WebWheeler... I have an 85 chev one ton dually RWD I put a cummins in it...with a dana 70 HD 35 spline axles 4:11 Gears... I would Love to do the same thing you did... I need the traction of a locker... I am completely open to suggestions... Thank you for the great video and thanks ahead of time!!
There are lots of options for the Dana 70- really depends on what kind of terrain you need the traction for and how much control you want. There are E lockers, pneumatic lockers, manual (ox) lockers, automatic detroit lockers, etc. Im assuming you're mainly using this truck for towing and highway?
Have you heard anything about the 12v constant burning up the coil and needing to drop off to about 5v after the initial 30 sec engagement?
Nope- from what I've seen the 12V constant doesn't hurt them at all. A guy on Pirate4x4 hooked his locker straight to a battery and left it on for 3 days. It got warm but no warmer than gear oil temps and still functioned perfectly afterwards
Did I understand you correctly when You said this E-Locker will NOT work in a dually?
Mine is a 1989 F350 dually.
I believe those years had either Dana 70 or sterling 10.25 dually rears. If it's a sterling dually axle, it should work. If it has the Dana dually rear, it won't. Good luck!
@@WebWheeler
Fantastic. Thank you. Great video, too.
Now, I'm off to the salvage yard.
Any update on how it works in the vehicle and durability. I just picked up a locker for under$100
I'm currently breaking in the gears so I will be testing the locker in a few weeks. But since this locker is designed to run behind a 6.7L powerstroke, I figure it'll handle my V8 no problem even with 40s haha
I am curious if you went thru all the trouble of drilling and tapping why not just make same hole as other rearend and reuse factory plug????? Not being "That feller" but I wondered why
Or was it from a different GVW vehicle??
The housings are from different era's- the old housing (the one I'm putting the locker is) is older and doesn't have the mount for the plug in the casting. They cast in more material for the factory plug. It's so long that without the additional material to space it out, it doesn't fit well inside the differential without risking contact with the locker or ring gear bolts. Also, I would be drilling two holes and still having to tap one that way (the factory plug has the wires going through and then a separate mount screw.) I could have swapped housings but I kept the old housing because it has the ABS sensor where I need it and that'd be a lot harder to correctly make a mount for than making the hole for wiring. Thanks for watching!
Ah got it.... I haven't been under mine yet.... haven't seen housing
Interesting.
I'm curious about how the lock-up occurs with the Fords. It looks like just a small movement and how does it pin the 2 side gears together to make an axle lock?
#2 .... Should you stop to engage it, or can you flip it on at speed?
Thanks
I believe it's basically the same as the Eaton E lockers. There's a RUclips video on how those actuate but it's basically just an electromagnet that pulls a collar in to engage the locker. I believe it will engage while driving but haven't tested it out yet. Once i get the build done I will try it and let you guys know what happens!
Absolutely come to a stop before engaging a locker.
Why not bore the hole for speed sensor in the newer axle... I'm pretty sure the prevision is there and you get better brakes, No? Oh and you think you could post the WMS to WMS of the two axles you have and tag with year? I can't seem to find that sh*t anywhere's on the web. Nice rig by the way.. Was thinking of a Dakota build myself but I opted for a Jeep Liberty instead ( the dog needs a place to sit out of the elements too :-P ).
Available great ratios are different between the axles- I explain it in some other comments. The brakes appear to be pretty similar but I haven't really compared too closely. All the 05+ SD axles are 72" WMS for the SRW. I'm not sure about the 99-04 leaf spring ones. Jeep liberty will be an awesome build! 🤘You don't see many of those built up so it's a cool idea. Thanks a lot for checking out the videos! Spread the word 😉
@@WebWheeler So it just so happens that I had a '11 f250 SD, super crew-long bed w/ rear E locker in the shop today. I measured from outside of tire to inside of other tire.. Front 68.5" Rear 67" ?!?!Confused?!?! I measured it like 8 times! Yes, factory wheels, all the same tires, pressures the same, measure accordingly on the tread...etc. Anyways, went online to Randys ring and pinion and checked out ratios. 4.88 was the lowest set they had (specifically the truck above). Do you think that this is in relation to the factory e locker not allowing the clearance for ring gear? And what ratio are you planning for?
That's really weird about the tire measurement. I will measure the axles I have again (2006 and 2011) but I've always seen 72" and I believe I confirmed it on mine. Either way, in 2011+ the rear axles have a bigger 37 spline pinion. I'm thinking that the bigger pinion doesn't allow the pinion gear to be small enough to get a deeper ratio than 4.88. That's the only difference from those axles to the older ones
Pretty much all street driven cars, trucks, vans, et cetera have a wider track in the front than the rear to allow more clearance since the front tires need to turn.
Where could I find one of those lockers? Junk Yard?
They're starting to pop up in junkyards but your best bet right now is still dismantlers selling whole axles or diffs from used trucks. I will try to find the Ford part number- some places sell the locking diff brand new also. Good luck!
I may try this but, why not just swap the entire rearend instead of only swapping the guts?
I go a little more in depth in a reply of another comment with the same question, but basically lower gear ratios available for 2010 and older axles, and the ABS setup is different as well. The older axle housing worked better for my build. Good luck!
@@WebWheeler
Oughfff. The ABS. Good point. Thanks!
I found a rearend (2016 with 144,000 miles) but, it has a 3.73:1 vs the 3.55:1 I was looking to get.
They are asking $775 which seems a little high for just the e-locker feature. IDK. Was the 3.55:1 even offered in later years?
My '89 dually has a 4.10:1 which is just too many engine RPM's for highway (3,000 at 65 MPH) use. I drive into Atlanta twice or more each week. Is the 3.73:1 going to help me much?
Factory gear for my truck was a 3.55:1.
Yeah that's a little steep- mine was $500 with brakes and ebrake cables intact. I believe 3.73's are the highest factory gearing available. That would still drop your rpm by almost 300rpm. You could also regear but that's not cheap either. If you do that, you might as well just but the locker itself. Best solution to me though is go with the 3.73's and just get bigger tires 😎 haha
couldn't you just have gone through the diff cover with that connection? You'd have been able to secure the gland with the nut and not drilled trough the axle housing.
Yeah you could do that but I don't want to deal with wiring when opening/sealing diff. There's a chance that the wiring ends up in a bad spot when installing the cover and could get caught in the carrier or ring gear. Going through the housing means I can verify that the wires are in the right place and they won't move or be in my way when installing the cover
Dont mind me askin what these axles run for in the junkyard around yah... was lookin for an electric locker for a ram2500 i got seen this. For a used one with electric locker theyre wanting $1200 in my area... 🤢🤮
$1200 isn't unheard of here either but i picked mine up for $500. Just takes finding the right yard. Car-part.com is a great resource 👍
This will work for my 03 10.5 sterling rear also right? I think they were all pretty much the same.
Yes it will 👍 should fit all full float sterling axles
Did that ring stay put? I’m wondering if I shouldn’t add some retaining compound to mine before doing the swap?
Working fine still- have around 7k miles on it at this point. I'm pulling the cover soon to paint the axle and will check it then and follow up on my Instagram and eventually on here 👍
Thanks for the reply. Sounds good. I’d just noticed on my ring gear that tone ring index tab was resting against the cutout in the carrier. I’m assuming it had rotated a little but, maybe not.
It was probably assembled that way- the drag from the oil is the only thing trying to spin the tone ring so I can't imagine it could overcome the press fit. The other option to give extra security would be to just use a small diameter punch or center punch and stake the tone ring and carrier together after you assemble the carrier, tone ring, and ring gear. That would be enough of a mechanical lock to be sure the tone ring can't rotate or walk away from the ring gear. Good luck!
Yeah I thought about that when putting it all back together. I did use the ring to press it on as you'd shown. I also went ahead with a little retaining compound just for kicks. I did notice that toner ring sure is soft for it being ferrous steel, cast or whatever it's made out of it. I used a .0015 feeler gauge around the press fit surface just to make sure it was fully seated against the new ring gear. I found one tiny high spot that feeler was getting stuck in so I tapped it back down with a brass punch against the ring gear which actually marred the surface. I'm going with 4.88 Yukon's. The goal is to hit 4.30 final ratio after installing some 36x12.5x17's. Was running 4.30's which were a bit too tall for my liking with 35's. Truck doesn't get much highway use and when it does we're towing our RV 65 or slower. 6.0's like revs anyways. The original LSD had 345k on it so I was concerned about re-clutching it. Those things get toasted when towing after a while anyways. That's when I found your video. Thanks again sir and keep up the good work! @@WebWheeler
So I'm in the middle of this exact install. Got a great pattern drive and coast. I got the football on drive side and I would say the coast side looks a little like a feather shape. I would say nearly identical to yours.
-Patterns are centered.
-Pinion bearing preload is 20-22 inch lbs. Avg B/L is .008. .
-Pinion depth is .028
.002 B/L variation runout on teeth which I attribute to the phosphate coating on the new gears.
I've made sure to mark the location of the dial indicator base on the housing and take the B/L measurement closest to the same location / angle possible each time on the teeth.
New Ford E-lock Carrier which has .001 runout. New Yukon 4.88s.
All new Timken bearings and races.
No noise on drive whatsoever, but I've got tiny, faint noise on deceleration.
I'm thinking I should increase the preload to the end of spec at 35 in/lbs as I suspect it's unloading a little causing the pattern to change on the coast side. This is a daily, not a wheeler so trying to make her quiet as possible. I'd really love your input on this.
I’m assuming that tab you ground off was there for a reason. Will the tone ring “spin” on the ring gear without it?
Its hard to say why it was there- could have been for assembly, to prevent spin as you mention, or for some completely different reason haha. Bottom line though is it won't spin- the only thing "pushing" on the ring is the gear oil and the press fit on the carrier is more than enough friction to counteract that
WebWheeler I saw another post where the guy machined a notch for the tab. But that looked like a whole new level of complexity. I think I’d do it your way
Yeah don't see it going anywhere. My guess if that it's mainly thereto make assembly at the factory easier. If time proves me wrong though I will let you guys know haha 😂
Would the whole axle assembly (2011+) fit right into the 2008-10 trucks?
Yeah it should bolt in but the ABS is different if that matters to you
I want to throw this in my sterling 10.25 on my 97 powerstroke, when I buy the master rebuild kit do I need different bearings etc than I would normally get?
Nope everything from your rebuild kit for the '97 axle should fit just fine on the locker 👍 thanks for watching!
2 wires only! Why Toyota gotta makes theirs so hard. I was hoping you open the locker to see the inside.
Haha could be extra wires for some computer control or feedback if I had to guess. I may open up the locker in a future video! Thanks for watching
wondering if i could do this on my 2011 f150 with a 9.75
I believe the 9.75 did have a factory locker option that should swap in but don't know for sure
Are their spring perch differences in dimension or major differences that would interfere with just swapping the whole rear end? Looking to go elocker in my 03 excursion.
I talk about it in another comment somewhere but the big difference is abs speed sensors- 2011+ has a speed sensor on each wheel, 2010 and earlier just uses one on the carrier. I think perch width is the same, but not positive
@@WebWheeler thanks for the info and for the video as well!
No problem! Thanks for watching 👍
Your wire seal probably has a PG thread Metric Diameter and inch pitch.
Apparently haha. Just when I thought they couldn't get trickier than metric and imperial in the same vehicle, now it's metric and imperial in the same thread! 🙄
@@WebWheeler PG7 actually is a type of thread!!! 12.5mm x 1.27 pitch... yeah...wtf?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzergewinde
The Stahlpanzerrohrgewinde standard for screw threads, more often called by the shorter name Panzergewinde (pronunciation), was a technical standard created in Germany and subsequently used in various countries, such as the German-speaking world (Germany, Switzerland, Austria) and neighboring European countries.
Ha! Leave it to the Germans. They literally made a metric version of a 1/2-20 😆
@@WebWheeler They probably did it to mock the USA -- I mean, the metric system just makes more sense!!
That's what I'm thinking too! Lol yeah metric really does make infinitely more sense- I tend to use it whenever possible when I do design and engineering work on my computer
So will a tone ring off a 10.25 work on a 10.5? I have a 94 I’m doing a sd axle swap on but the axle I got is a 2011
Yep it should as long as it's a full float sterling, all the carriers are the same. There might be a notch on the ID of the tone ring that you'll have to grind off but it will press on after that. My 2006 tone ring fit on the 2011 carrier I used. As far as I can tell, Ford had never changed the dimensions of the sterling carrier from the 10.25s all the way to the ones currently in production haha
2004 has same ? Mine has just one electic port in front of the deff
The lockers only came in 2011 and newer trucks but fit in the 2004's
Did you have to change pinion/pinion bearing I’m wanting to do this to my 02 f250
You might be able to keep the bearing setup if you're lucky but there are no guarantees- definitely need to have the gear pattern checked after swapping them to make sure. Thanks for watching!
Will this work on my first gen dodge durango? As a boult in mod. Not counting the wiring
Not this diff- these are only for the Ford Sterling 10.25/10.5 axles. Best factory bolt in option you could find for the Durangos would be a limited slip diff but e lockers are available in the after market
Could one of these lockers be put in the front also?
Front axle is a Dana 60 so this locker won't work. There are tons of aftermarket options that will though 👍
Wouldn’t it have been easier to use the the other axle ?
Check the other comments 👍
How difficult do you think it’d be to swap the entire axle? I know it’s not related to the vid, but I have a 2015 F150 2wd open diff, and ideally I’d like to find an E-Diff super 8.8 hoping to just swap he whole entire axle.... any ideas would be great thanks!
I think they would swap over pretty easy- possibly even a bolt-in deal but I'm not positive since I haven't deal with those axles much. It would likely be easier than swapping just the diff since you'd need to reset the gears as long as the mounts for the leaf springs and shocks are the same. I have a few videos about putting a custom rear in my project truck that you can check out! It's custom so it's more work than you'd have but still gives you an idea of what it takes. Good luck!
@@WebWheeler Thanks for the reply man! Hopefully I can find one. Ill be sure to checkout the other vids as well
Did your wheel speed work
Yep! Had to install the sensor from my truck (the Dakota) in the housing but after that everything worked perfect 🤘. Thanks for watching!
Why did you do the e locker swap and not just build the e locker rear and housing?
The 2011+ axles have a 37 spline pinion which only has gearing down to 4.88's available. I need at least 5.13's or 5.38's so I had to go with the older style
Ah I gotcha that makes sense. Love the dakota build comin up! I have been wanting to do a similar style build but I have a hard on for toyotas lol just saw your channel today and love the content. Keep it up man!
@@toyotafied9505 Glad you're enjoying it! Thanks a lot man. I'm trying to finish up the next Dakota video- will be coming soon! Toyotas are a great platform to build- would like to build a 4runner some day. We'll see haha. Thanks again for checking out the channel!
will this locker limit you from going up to a 5.38 gear ratio? or can you still run a 5.38 with this locker
You can still run 5.38s if you install the locker in a 2010 or older axle housing 👍 thanks for watching!
Are the 5.38s for the 2010 axle ?
You can get 5.38's for 2010's. 2011 and later switched to a 37 spline pinion and only go to 4.88's
@WebWheeler thanks lol I almost gave away my 08 axle since I'm buying a 11-16 😅 so glad I came across this video. Let the swap begin. 🤘🏻🤘🏻
Why didnt you just swap the whole 2011 axle instead pf swapping guts?
2011+ axles use a 37 spline pinion that only has gearing available down to 4.88. I need 5.13 or 5.38's so I need the older 35 spline pinion
Thanks for the response!
@@FlyinRaptorJesus No problem- thanks for watching!
Do you know if any e locker out of a f250 will work? I seen one post say it had to be a 6.2 gas motor cause the diesels have a different spline axle shaft then the older diesels.
They all work as long as it's the Sterling 10.5" axle. They have some optional heavy duty Dana axles in recent years that are different and won't work but it's not split by diesel vs gas. In 2011 ford switched the Sterling from 31 to 37 spline pinions (which I imagine is the confusion) but the axle shafts have always been and still are 35 spline and the carriers are all interchangable 👍
@@WebWheeler ahhh makes sense. Appreciate the info man. I'll keep a eye out for one.
No problem- thanks for watching! good luck!
@@WebWheeler where?
Apparently he deleted the comment at some point. I edited my response mentioning it. I'll try to track it down and comment back to you if I find it 👍
Would this work for a 2002 expo?
This works for any of the Sterling 10.25/10.5" full float rear axles . Thanks for watching!
Do you know how low of a gear you can put on the factory e-locker?
The lowest great I have seen for the 2011+ axles is 4.88s. For the 2010 and older you can get 5.38s. The e locker will work with any of the gear ratios though 👍
WebWheeler thanks man! I just remembered some housings on certain axle configurations wouldn’t let you run but up to a certain ratio👍🏻like they even made 2 separate housings depending on how steep the gear was for the trucks build sheet or something like that anyway 😂
No problem! Yeah the full float sterling 10.5 and 10.25 have been pretty consistent throughout the years- all the carriers will accept all the gearsets with the right bearing set. The 2011+ have a different pinion (37 spine) which is where gears are limited. Carriers are all interchangable though!
There is no carrier break.
Wonder if it will fit in the 10.25 sterling
Yes it will 👍 all the Sterling 10.25 and 10.5's carriers interchange
@@WebWheeler will the whole rig gear have to be changed or will the locker bolt up to the existing?
Locker will bolt up to the older ring gear just fine- you just might need to adjust the carrier shims to get the gear mesh pattern right again
@@WebWheeler thanks
PLEASE HELP. I don't have acces to this middle pin. How i get out the axles??? Mine looks like this images90.fotosik.pl/221/516c932a6d23a96f.jpg should i remove this C clip that is marked red on the picture???
What axle is it? If I had to guess, yeah I would remove that clip but without knowing more about the axle I can't say for sure. Good luck!
Was this locker a 35 spline or a 37 spline?
All Sterling 10.5 and 10.25's are 35 spline shafts/carriers. The change to 37 spline in 2011 applies to the pinion only. Thanks for watching!
@@WebWheeler This is very helpful, also what gears are you going to be running? I want to run 4.88 but i’m not sure if that gear ratio will work with the locker. Also do i order rear gears for any steering or does it need to be a 2012+ gear set for the rear?
I'm running 5.13's to match the original gear ratio/tire size. All the gear ratios will work with the locker, but the 2011+ 37 spline pinion axles only have gear ratios down to 4.88. The earlier axles go down to 5.38. You'll need to order gears based on which pinion spline count you have. For the Sterling 10.5" axles with 35 spline pinions (1999-2010) you can run gears that are for the Sterling 10.25, you just need the Sterling 10.25" install kit for the correct bearings and seals rather than the Sterling 10.5" install kit. Hope that makes sense!
@@WebWheeler I have a 2002 axle, i’m still a bit confused on what year gears i would have to order. Since it’s a 35 spline would i order for a 35 spline pinion. I’m new to this whole thing so i’m a bit confused
So you just need to order gears and the install kit for a 1999-2010 super duty if you're going to run 4.88's. It gets just gets a little more complicated if you're trying to run 5.13's or 5.38's in the 1999-2010 axles
Do you know if anyone has tried this with a ford sterling 9.75?
I don't know of anyone that has tried... I know this e locker won't fit because it's for a trial different axle but if there's a factory 9.75 e locker, I imagine it would fit like this does...
Also, I shared this video on my FB group with 3k members so should get you some more traffic 😊 join us if you haven’t already- Rockcrawling Tech on Facebook
Nice! I will definitely join up. And thanks a ton for the share- that goes a long way in getting this channel out there!
why not just swap the rear
The axles with the e locker option only have gearsets down to 4.88. I need at least 5.13s which is available for the older axles
I was looking around the comments to find this lol
You should have wired the connector through the diff cover
That would be a pain in the ass haha I would need a long wire to make it easy to connect/disconnect the locker when installing/removing the cover which means the wiring could easily be grabbed by the spinning carrier. To avoid that I would need a really short wire connecting them which would make it a pain to install/remove the diff cover and connect the wiring. Going through the housing allows them to be dealt with separately and I can make sure the wiring is routed safely
@@WebWheeler or you could bolt a wire tie or some kind of bend piece of sheet metal, creating a shield, under the head of the carrier bearing bolt so the wire is routed around and away from the abs pick up ring and spinning parts
@@122ffsdd you're still fighting the wiring every time you try to get the diff cover on or off. I don't see any benefit to doing it that way especially when it's so quick and easy to drill and tap into the housing and you never have to think about it again. But you do it your way haha
@@WebWheeler no permanent modifications to your axle and you are using the factory hardware. That's the benefit.
@@122ffsdd definitely not worth the extra trouble to me but you do you
Awesome!!
Thanks for watching!
Can I ask how are you gonna make the ABS work with the new axles?
I am putting super duties into a Toyota with the atrac and would love to keep it, but I’ve been having trouble deciding how to go about it.
I ended up using my stock Dakota rear ABS sensor in the Sterling 10.5 housing and it worked perfect. I think they're pretty universal but I also might have gotten a little lucky haha. Same hole size/position on both sensors and the tooth count on the ABS ring seems to agree with what the Dakota expects. Only change was I had to trim off one of the factory sensor "guards" that are cast into the 10.5" differential housing because it hit the plug on the Dakota sensor. Toyota might have a different setup, but either way you'll probably want to figure out how to adapt your stock sensor to the housing rather than reusing the sensor from the Sterling. Good luck!