That clinking sound you hear when running the rod through is the sound of your jag clipping your crown when coming back into the barrel. That is a good way to ruin your barrel via deformation or excessive wear on the crown
Y'all are gonna have to explain how a much softer metal is going to do damage to stainless steel 🤔? Brass or Bronze isn't going to hurt anything. Both are from copper.
Good stuff. I have been using Kroil for over 40 years and I don't know how they keep that stuff in the can! It's amazing stuff and will free rusted-on thread joints better than anything I have ever found. It is mostly just 50% Acetone and 50% ATF if you wanna save some money and make it yourself. Also, I can't help but develop the heebie-jeebies every time I heard my cleaning rod making that ticking sound as the brass bangs into my muzzle crown on my barrel on the backstroke so I took some wire shrink tubing and sealed on a small piece over the area where my brass tip connects to the cleaning rod and I can only pray that I didn't jack up my custom target crown. The rifle shoots like a house of fire so I don't think I did any damage. Very well done video and thanks!
I know you are right, it just makes me cringe. I had checked my 11-degree target crown with a jeweler's loop once and it was perfect. That was right after smacking it pretty hard with the threaded adapter. My gunsmith is very careful around my crown He is where I learned about the shrink tubing. Thanks. You are right.
Good video, been using these 2 products for years and they are the best IMO. Nothing comes close. Have watched many vids on gun cleaning , not many use these products. They don't know what they are missing.
Looks simpler to me than using rifle patches that leave lots of lint behind. I agree not using too much of the compound very frequently. Not a competition shooter but always looking for simpler ways to keep the bore clean without damaging it over time. I have a bore snake I never used because I don't think running an (eventually dirty) snake thru a dirty bore will help much. I do like the idea of using a borescope & mirror to periodically check to see how clean the lands & grooves are. I'm retired S.S. on a budget so look for the least expensive way to do the job I feel needs to be done.
@@MrMcguffin007NEVER use abrasives with brushes of any kind. Its a surefire way to ruin a barrel. You can use patches on a jag, or the pellet system. Never ever with brushes of any kind. And yes jb is abrasive.
Yes is abrasive. The black on his cleaning pellets was most likely metal polished off the barrel not fouling. Jb is supposed to be mild and bore safe when used as directed. I only use it for heavy fouling or lead deposits my normal cleaners cant get out. I almost never have to use it.
@@ZackCarlson Try a parker hale style jag. With the proper size patch you'll accomplish the same thing for less money, but have much more surface area to work with.
Personally I use Boretech copper and carbon specific products and no need for such excessive scrubbing and stuff. I just get the barrel soaked, then just let it sit there and start passing patches until it is clean. Inspected with a bore camera and everything is clean, no carbon, no copper, nothing. With JB paste, I find that there is always stuff in the barrel and I have to real crazy trying to get it out.
JB is a polishing compound.It gives a mirror like finish to the bore, cleaning is a by product of that. Personally iv never seen it help. Iv only used it on one barrel in my life and the groups went from bad to worse so idk about this stuff 🤷♂️
You'll be absolutely fine. Any microscopic amount of paste that gets in gas hole will be blown through and out the ejection port just fine. Generally I think this is a bit excessive for anything other than benchrest style shooting
Absolutely worthless process on nearly every barrel and will do nothing to help your AR besides maybe give you the opportunity to buy a new and better barrel after you ruined your original one with this “process.”
I dont see a reason to even put that 2nd pill on there when you take it right off after 1 pass..its a waste. Just keep changing the threaded one more often.
KROIL saturated barrel with a wetted (KROIL) brass bore brush chucked up in a drill and spun yhrough bore will scrub like nobody's business. Durn near mirror finish. KROIL/JB paste swab afterwards to polish.
I cringed every time I heard the brass fitting hittng the muzzle. you NEVER/Never let the patch exit the muzzle. EVER when polishing or lapping a bore. Use a block taped or a stop to prevent the pstch much less the end fo the rid from exiting the Muzzle. 101 gun Smithing! Smithing KnifeMaker
Do you worry with the brass cartridge hits the other end of the barrel? I get your point but I think you're worrying too much. Brass is softer than the stainless of the barrel.
@@ZackCarlson The brass is loaded with JB compound; so yes it is not a great idea to allow the brass to run hard into the barrel crown. Where the did the JB on the brass fitting come from? It was on the crown, from the felt pellet running over it...
The Military did a bunch of testing on crown degradation and found out it didn’t matter nearly as much as everybody had previously thought. Granted that’s the Military and not world class F-Class or Benchrest shooters either. I chopped several barrels down with a hacksaw, cleaned them up with mill bastard files, none were close to being perfectly square, you could see that with the naked eye. I slapped a crown in them with some valve lapping compound and a rounded brass head in a cordless drill. Everyone of them shot at least as well as they did before being cut down, all sub-moa. Loss of accuracy from scratching the crown is way overrated for the overwhelming majority of shooters. IMO 😁 As the original poster stated, brass is way softer than a chromo/stainless barrel. Find something else to worry about!
@@ZackCarlson Softer means it can embed abrasive dust or lapping compound. A softer jacketed lead bullet shoots though steel plate. If the idea is to improve the barrel; first do no harm.
Rod being brass and tip aluminum(or brass) unlikely. Both softer metals than barrel steel by a long shot. Should still avoid occurrence just for maintenance practice standards adherence.
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That clinking sound you hear when running the rod through is the sound of your jag clipping your crown when coming back into the barrel. That is a good way to ruin your barrel via deformation or excessive wear on the crown
Totally agree. Just try to keep the jag from coming out the end of the muzzle. And he did not use a bore guide.
Made me cringe every time I heard that hang on the muzzle
Y'all are gonna have to explain how a much softer metal is going to do damage to stainless steel 🤔?
Brass or Bronze isn't going to hurt anything. Both are from copper.
Good stuff. I have been using Kroil for over 40 years and I don't know how they keep that stuff in the can! It's amazing stuff and will free rusted-on thread joints better than anything I have ever found. It is mostly just 50% Acetone and 50% ATF if you wanna save some money and make it yourself. Also, I can't help but develop the heebie-jeebies every time I heard my cleaning rod making that ticking sound as the brass bangs into my muzzle crown on my barrel on the backstroke so I took some wire shrink tubing and sealed on a small piece over the area where my brass tip connects to the cleaning rod and I can only pray that I didn't jack up my custom target crown. The rifle shoots like a house of fire so I don't think I did any damage. Very well done video and thanks!
Got to try your wire shrink idea Thanks for the Tip!
👍 no problem. Thanks for the good video!
Brass nor aluminum will hurt your barrel now if it was steel then yeah it will ding it up.
I know you are right, it just makes me cringe. I had checked my 11-degree target crown with a jeweler's loop once and it was perfect. That was right after smacking it pretty hard with the threaded adapter. My gunsmith is very careful around my crown He is where I learned about the shrink tubing. Thanks. You are right.
What is ATF?
Good video, been using these 2 products for years and they are the best IMO. Nothing comes close. Have watched many vids on gun cleaning , not many use these products. They don't know what they are missing.
No lens caps or bore guide?
Should u not use the JB first then the kroil? Am I missing something?
Looks simpler to me than using rifle patches that leave lots of lint behind. I agree not using too much of the compound very frequently. Not a competition shooter but always looking for simpler ways to keep the bore clean without damaging it over time. I have a bore snake I never used because I don't think running an (eventually dirty) snake thru a dirty bore will help much. I do like the idea of using a borescope & mirror to periodically check to see how clean the lands & grooves are. I'm retired S.S. on a budget so look for the least expensive way to do the job I feel needs to be done.
Great thing about Kroil is that it
Smells like candy 😊
Yep!
Heard several times in the community, that JB might be abrassive and damage the barrel.
Don´t know if it does or not.
You are not supposed to use bronze brushes with abrasives. Only nylon
@@MrMcguffin007NEVER use abrasives with brushes of any kind. Its a surefire way to ruin a barrel. You can use patches on a jag, or the pellet system. Never ever with brushes of any kind. And yes jb is abrasive.
Yes is abrasive. The black on his cleaning pellets was most likely metal polished off the barrel not fouling. Jb is supposed to be mild and bore safe when used as directed. I only use it for heavy fouling or lead deposits my normal cleaners cant get out. I almost never have to use it.
Nothing bore tec even touched the hard carbon in my barrels, good for topical carbon only.
Give EASY OFF oven cleaner a try. Designed explicitly to remove baked on carbon. Works like a charm.
Cool, I had never heard of that, I have Kroil and the JB bore paste already, just need the swabs and proper jag.
You can probably accomplish it with a regular patch system too. I just like how the pellets stay tight the whole time.
@@ZackCarlson Try a parker hale style jag. With the proper size patch you'll accomplish the same thing for less money, but have much more surface area to work with.
M bok
Thx for the video & links.
Personally I use Boretech copper and carbon specific products and no need for such excessive scrubbing and stuff. I just get the barrel soaked, then just let it sit there and start passing patches until it is clean. Inspected with a bore camera and everything is clean, no carbon, no copper, nothing. With JB paste, I find that there is always stuff in the barrel and I have to real crazy trying to get it out.
JB is a polishing compound.It gives a mirror like finish to the bore, cleaning is a by product of that. Personally iv never seen it help. Iv only used it on one barrel in my life and the groups went from bad to worse so idk about this stuff 🤷♂️
Is this method safe for AR15 barrels? My concern, is the paste getting into the gas port and the into the gas system.
You'll be absolutely fine. Any microscopic amount of paste that gets in gas hole will be blown through and out the ejection port just fine. Generally I think this is a bit excessive for anything other than benchrest style shooting
Absolutely worthless process on nearly every barrel and will do nothing to help your AR besides maybe give you the opportunity to buy a new and better barrel after you ruined your original one with this “process.”
@@rifleshooterchannel208care to elaborate?
Thank you for the tips!
JB is good stuff but sucks cleaning out of your chamber and locking lug recesses.
True. Thanks for watching.
I do this to every new pistol or rifle before I take it to the range
Nice. Thanks for watching.
I dont see a reason to even put that 2nd pill on there when you take it right off after 1 pass..its a waste. Just keep changing the threaded one more often.
No bore guide?
Should use a bore guide.
That black stuff is most likely the metal you polished out of the bore, not fouling.
Yeah you're probably right.
@@ZackCarlson stuff does work well, i just try and reserve it as a last resort for tough fouling.
KROIL saturated barrel with a wetted (KROIL) brass bore brush chucked up in a drill and spun yhrough bore will scrub like nobody's business. Durn near mirror finish. KROIL/JB paste swab afterwards to polish.
Don't soak the stock.
And no bore scope, no points.
Might as well take a jack hammer to that poor crown. Wow.
Thanks for watching
I cringed every time I heard the brass fitting hittng the muzzle. you NEVER/Never let the patch exit the muzzle. EVER when polishing or lapping a bore.
Use a block taped or a stop to prevent the pstch much less the end fo the rid from exiting the Muzzle. 101 gun Smithing! Smithing
KnifeMaker
Do you worry with the brass cartridge hits the other end of the barrel? I get your point but I think you're worrying too much. Brass is softer than the stainless of the barrel.
@@ZackCarlson Agreed
@@ZackCarlson The brass is loaded with JB compound; so yes it is not a great idea to allow the brass to run hard into the barrel crown.
Where the did the JB on the brass fitting come from? It was on the crown, from the felt pellet running over it...
The Military did a bunch of testing on crown degradation and found out it didn’t matter nearly as much as everybody had previously thought. Granted that’s the Military and not world class F-Class or Benchrest shooters either. I chopped several barrels down with a hacksaw, cleaned them up with mill bastard files, none were close to being perfectly square, you could see that with the naked eye. I slapped a crown in them with some valve lapping compound and a rounded brass head in a cordless drill. Everyone of them shot at least as well as they did before being cut down, all sub-moa. Loss of accuracy from scratching the crown is way overrated for the overwhelming majority of shooters. IMO 😁 As the original poster stated, brass is way softer than a chromo/stainless barrel. Find something else to worry about!
@@ZackCarlson Softer means it can embed abrasive dust or lapping compound. A softer jacketed lead bullet shoots though steel plate. If the idea is to improve the barrel; first do no harm.
where's your bore guide?
Do not run rod thru the end of barrel so as not damage the crown!
Why no bore guide ??
What no bore guide?
Nonsense, maybe every 500 rounds. . . Maybe
Thanks for watching
I cringed every time you brought that rod back into the barrel at the Muzzle end and it hit on the crown
Thanks for watching
You destroyed that crown. Please take it easy.
Rod being brass and tip aluminum(or brass) unlikely. Both softer metals than barrel steel by a long shot. Should still avoid occurrence just for maintenance practice standards adherence.