Nice update. Crazy how much condensation you get...I've never had that much in my can! Glad you have a can...especially with our DI engines and being unable to clean the backs of the valves if they get all gunked up with that crud!
It looks like it works as claimed! I purchased one for my 2014 Chevy truck ! I can’t wait to see what I get from it! I bought K& N ! My truck has 65,000 on it ! Keep up your great videos!
Love your AT4! My 5.0 mustang has a catch can, very useful and well worth the little investment in the long run. Hearing your 6.2 makes me wish I would have got that motor instead of my 3.0 in my 22 AT4
I put one on my 2012 Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4 Access cab 4.0 years ago. Just hit 50k 2 months ago. It does not have your type of filter. It just had a metal plate with holes in it, so I added some Stainless Steel Chore Boy . It does not clog up or freeze. I do mostly short trips and have noticed that in summer I get more of a clean oil in the can (very little) and in colder months I get the milky mix. My oil in oil-pan is not milky during oil changes. I would say water came out of your drain hose because the water went to bottom of the hose and the oil/milky substance floated up above the water in the hose, (oil floats) and it is not in the catch can being constantly mixed up by the incoming PCV air constantly mixing the water and oil up in the catch can because it's way down in the rubber hose and separates naturally. North East Pennsylvania.
I feel like the condensation developed in the catch can it self, the air from the crankcase is hot and then spool around in the can I believe developes the water 💧. I have a catch can install on my small block chevy boat engine and it's pretty hot when the engine running and alot vacuum in it that the intake pulling.
I’m a 2019 sierra sle,x31 owner and recently bought the same one for my truck as you bought , have you had noticed that the filter media in the catchcan being frozen and not letting the air flow through it before the motor can warm up and melt the water contaminants not just in the can but in the filter area of can ?
I have the same truck and a different brand catch can installed, I live in California with mild winters compared to yours and my can is mostly oil with some water. I’m glad I found out about catch cans .
@@Donslife Nice video! I want to mount a Provent200 and my winters are quite cold... I wonder if it will freeze, blocking the gas and clogging the crankcase path.. What do you think?
I have a UPR as well in my 5.3 Denali. The thing to note is that the condensation is being generated by the cold can itself and is not coming from the engine. The engine gets too hot to quickly to generate condensation. It would be better if the UPR can was mounted closer to the engine heat to reduce can condensation more. Don't use any Lucas oil additive. It will eventually clog the patented UPR four stage filters. Ask me how I know. Great video!
I agree the catch can mounting location that UPR created for this truck is a little further away than some. Also the volume of the can and hose lengths allow for more moisture in the air to fill the reservoir. Thanks for watching!
If you are asking for a solution to keeping it in year round for easier draining. Here is a video: Solved the Oil Catch Can / Separator Issue! ruclips.net/video/NoFd_c0LCfs/видео.html
Mine looks the same way and I was just thinking that if I moved my can to a warmer part of the engine bay I could evaporate that water and condense only the oil vapors. I don’t know what temperature I need to condense oil but not water.
I believe it’s condensation due to the oil vapours cooling off outside of the engine. Oil mixed with water gives that white baby poo. In summer you would get oil residue in the can. It should still work by removing the oil going back into the engine.
Theoretically the engine would need to get hot enough for long enough to burn off any of the vapors or blow-by gasses returning in the PCV system. The can is just catching them early for disposal.
I have a 2021 Denali 6.2 also. The DIC would tell me that the oil level was low and too add. I checked the level and it was still full. Took it into my dealer. I was told they couldn’t do any diagnosis because of the catch can and the S&B intake until I removed it all. I’ve never had any issues with these parts, and needless to say they are still on. The message never came back after I did another oil change. I use RP oil and K&N filter. After what I see what’s in my catch can, I’ll leave it installed. Same with the intake. Think I should try another dealership? I’ve bought 3 trucks and one car from this one.
I'd try another dealership. But the catch can is a super simple removal and reinstall. My dealership told me my intake would not be blamed if I suffered a known problem that can come with some of these engines.
Had one on my 3.5l ecoboost. Don’t live anywhere where it gets close to freezing, but mine would fill up about half to 3/4 every 5k miles. Looked like pure oil. Nothing like that.
Don i want to order the UPR can like urs i have the 6.2 2021 denali. When ordering they show u can buy extra o rings etc what should i get in your opinion?
Catch cans collect a lot of condensation and some oil. Especially in colder weather. An older worn engine or engine with stuck rings would collect a lot more oil.
You ve got mayonnaise, oil and water mixed...oil is ok, but water,(coild be the condensation in the air with closeby engine..) would check the summer time if it is the same mayonnaise. I would hope not.
Why is yours so milky? I have one on my 2021 AT4 6.2L and the oil I catch is more the color of motor oil (slightly watered down). Nothing close to yours. Do you run any additives in your fuel? I am in Texas so maybe the difference in color is due to your extreme cold temps??
From what I have read for diesels, if you are experiencing excessive amounts of oil consumption, then a reputable and well designed catch can might be of benefit otherwise you’re probably fine as is. Reducing sludge build up in the intake system is what it would be doing.
Don; Your Truck is parked outside in those Low Temps, Correct? With all the Water found in the Can, have you experienced that Water being Frozen? Is Water in the Can a reason the Manufacturer recommended removing the Can during the Severe Cold? I live in Central Indiana and we get some of those temps., but not as much as your area. Appreciate any info. Mark.
Yes and yes - Risk of excessive condensation in very cold conditions seems to be the primary reason for more frequent emptying. The water in the can itself was only frozen once the engine bay sat to cool long enough.
In both Canada and the US, there are laws that protect us from warranty being denied on a part that is normally covered. Unless it can be proven that the aftermarket part caused the failure.
You can add one if you want. The main benefit is you won’t have to rely on the engine burning off the returning vapors. Those burnt up particles contribute to build up.
1 - Borla - Here is the video : BORLA S-Type Cat Back Dual Exhaust Install Review 2019 - 2023 GMC Sierra Chevy Silverado 6.2L ruclips.net/video/lzjipXNF1UM/видео.html 2 - Stock 33” Duratracs on stock 18’s with 1.5” wheel spacers : ruclips.net/video/asgS9PrwKAs/видео.html
Thats the stuff that would build up on your Turbo lands and or vains, then your polished intake ports and mix with your finally meeterd air fuel ratio to make the closest posible 100% combustion to reduce emisions and make them inert. Well that just became a complete fail. So the government and their money grabbing partners agreed the best way to make this work was to reburn it again another fail
@@Donslife yeah, I’m thinking of buying a 2024 one ton Chevy gasser and heard a lot of them burn a quart of oil every 1300 miles. It has me concerned now.
In my opinion, a catch can with a non-serviceable, very coarse filter on a gasoline truck makes very little sense as you demonstrated here. That was 95% condensation (water) with a small amount of captured oil, because of how your catch can is designed it will not catch much oil. Here in Australia, we have mostly diesel utes, which are generally 'mid-size pickups'; because of emissions regs in Europe & the US of A these diesels are fitted with a very active EGR to return spent exhaust gases to the engine, the EGR valve is open far more often on a diesel than a gasoline motor, especially at idle and low power demand. Hot, sooty dirty air. Not good for anything. This sooty air mixes with the oil and blowby gases released through the PCV (crankcase ventilation) and causes the carbon from the EGR to collect as sludge. This is 1 of the main reasons for failure, loss of power and unreliability of modern diesels. Because of this many thousands of guys will fit a catch can, these follow 2 general styles - a small aluminium can that unscrews, with or without a filter OR a Mann-Hummel/Ryco engineered can with a Provent 1-micron replaceable filter and drain valve, in my opinion the latter type, while possibly not as attractive is vastly superior. If fitted incorrectly and if the can is not serviced and the filter is not replaced when necessary, these will blow seals in your engine and could potentially blow an engine. A GOOD catch can can eliminate most of the oil in the intake, but it does nothing about the EGR spreading soot through your engine. I used to get a fair amount more oil in my intake when I had a GM 3.6 V6 gas car than what you collected, so I can only assume it's not doing its job very well. Any product for your vehicle that affects its emissions system that makes no distinction between a gas and diesel engine is either poorly engineered or a scam.
For the little amount that’s ending up in the engine, I wouldn’t bother with all of that. It looks like your oil filter is keeping the greatest share of the contaminates out of your combustion chamber. That stuff might have a tiny effect but nothing to really worry about but it’s your engine so by all means continue.
If you are returning the exit line from your catch can back to your cold air intake. You are returning probably 1/3 more of what you just dumped into the truck tears jar back through your intake system. And into your combustion chamber. That is what is messing with the air-fuel ratio. And the HP and the MPG. I call it wallet tears because it just sucks money out of your wallet. It's really engine sewage. No wonder they want all these extra emission control systems on vehicles. That shit just can't be burned. And it messes with your clean burning air fuel ratio so it can't preform properly. It's a hoxe. Like masks to protect you from harmful virus infection's PS I have a DIY much larger catch can 4"X 7" with a 1.5" deep reservoir at the bottom to collect that engine sewage. The 1" inlet port has a 90% elbow going down to 1" from the bottom, the tube going down is a 1/2 tube with 1/4 " baffled holes then A baffle plate covering the reservoir then the can is filled with SS wool pot scrubbers to just below the exit port now you put a 4" round baffle plate on top of that and fill the can up with more SS wool pot scrubbers to make a can that has excessive collection ability of anything that is to pass through the can the can is well filtered so venting to the atmosphere should be air. But I am not running any of that sewage back to the combustion chamber fowling the fuel injection tips, valve stems, etc, air intake manifold. And more. This defeated the scientifically metered air-fuel ratio to give the best and cleanest combustion chamber burn. As well as HP and MPG. Leading to the cleanest emissions possible giving the longest engine life. A properly-tuned and maintained diesel engine will have a life well above 500K miles with no black smoke etc. Arguments. I'm listening. Crickets. Yes.
P.S. the Can has a 3/8" ball check drain valve in the bottom for easy of draining whenever you want. I do it every 4K oil and filter servicing. More if I'm doing a lot of stop-and-go driving. I'm not suggesting you do the same. But I increased the MPG by 1/3 after the deletes. With the 1" ID tubing to and from the catch can CCV has not shown any seal or gasket leaks. So PCV is good.
linktr.ee/donslife - Links to all of my products and discounts
Nice update. Crazy how much condensation you get...I've never had that much in my can! Glad you have a can...especially with our DI engines and being unable to clean the backs of the valves if they get all gunked up with that crud!
My C8 Z51 Corvette has an "OIL CATCH" can. I get about 2 ounces + every 1k miles. They definitely work and are needed for DI engines.
Thank you for the update. That's way more than I was expecting.
You and me both!
It looks like it works as claimed! I purchased one for my 2014 Chevy truck ! I can’t wait to see what I get from it! I bought K& N ! My truck has 65,000 on it ! Keep up your great videos!
Love your AT4!
My 5.0 mustang has a catch can, very useful and well worth the little investment in the long run.
Hearing your 6.2 makes me wish I would have got that motor instead of my 3.0 in my 22 AT4
I am very happy with my set up and 6.2. Truth be told I almost went diesel but they were extremely hard to come by in late 2020/early 2021
I put one on my 2012 Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4 Access cab 4.0 years ago. Just hit 50k 2 months ago. It does not have your type of filter. It just had a metal plate with holes in it, so I added some Stainless Steel Chore Boy . It does not clog up or freeze. I do mostly short trips and have noticed that in summer I get more of a clean oil in the can (very little) and in colder months I get the milky mix. My oil in oil-pan is not milky during oil changes. I would say water came out of your drain hose because the water went to bottom of the hose and the oil/milky substance floated up above the water in the hose, (oil floats) and it is not in the catch can being constantly mixed up by the incoming PCV air constantly mixing the water and oil up in the catch can because it's way down in the rubber hose and separates naturally. North East Pennsylvania.
I feel like the condensation developed in the catch can it self, the air from the crankcase is hot and then spool around in the can I believe developes the water 💧. I have a catch can install on my small block chevy boat engine and it's pretty hot when the engine running and alot vacuum in it that the intake pulling.
I’m a 2019 sierra sle,x31 owner and recently bought the same one for my truck as you bought , have you had noticed that the filter media in the catchcan being frozen and not letting the air flow through it before the motor can warm up and melt the water contaminants not just in the can but in the filter area of can ?
I have the same truck and a different brand catch can installed, I live in California with mild winters compared to yours and my can is mostly oil with some water. I’m glad I found out about catch cans .
Right on! Thanks for watching and commenting
@@Donslife Nice video!
I want to mount a Provent200 and my winters are quite cold... I wonder if it will freeze, blocking the gas and clogging the crankcase path.. What do you think?
@@OlariuAlexandruB just do not let it get full and go back in the engine that’s why you have to drain it every 2 days in the winter
My 06 Silverado has that in the winter, condensation.
Wouldn’t it have been a hot vapour as opposed to the cool liquid sludge and what percentage of that would have exhausted?
Great video
I have a UPR as well in my 5.3 Denali. The thing to note is that the condensation is being generated by the cold can itself and is not coming from the engine. The engine gets too hot to quickly to generate condensation. It would be better if the UPR can was mounted closer to the engine heat to reduce can condensation more. Don't use any Lucas oil additive. It will eventually clog the patented UPR four stage filters. Ask me how I know. Great video!
I agree the catch can mounting location that UPR created for this truck is a little further away than some. Also the volume of the can and hose lengths allow for more moisture in the air to fill the reservoir. Thanks for watching!
Hey so do you recommend using a catch can then? I also have the 5.3
If you are asking for a solution to keeping it in year round for easier draining. Here is a video:
Solved the Oil Catch Can / Separator Issue!
ruclips.net/video/NoFd_c0LCfs/видео.html
Mine looks the same way and I was just thinking that if I moved my can to a warmer part of the engine bay I could evaporate that water and condense only the oil vapors. I don’t know what temperature I need to condense oil but not water.
I believe it’s condensation due to the oil vapours cooling off outside of the engine. Oil mixed with water gives that white baby poo. In summer you would get oil residue in the can. It should still work by removing the oil going back into the engine.
Amazing video and info. Would all that water/condensation burn off through the exhaust?
Theoretically the engine would need to get hot enough for long enough to burn off any of the vapors or blow-by gasses returning in the PCV system. The can is just catching them early for disposal.
Cool I need one for my city truck
I think they help, but aren't a crucial NEED. Obviously 99% of ICE vehicles don't have them...But I bet the ones that do have less build up.
Would be helpful to have an analysis done of the liquid to see just what is in it.
Perhaps. Can’t hurt but I haven’t done that yet
oil+water
I have a 2021 Denali 6.2 also. The DIC would tell me that the oil level was low and too add. I checked the level and it was still full. Took it into my dealer. I was told they couldn’t do any diagnosis because of the catch can and the S&B intake until I removed it all. I’ve never had any issues with these parts, and needless to say they are still on. The message never came back after I did another oil change. I use RP oil and K&N filter. After what I see what’s in my catch can, I’ll leave it installed. Same with the intake. Think I should try another dealership? I’ve bought 3 trucks and one car from this one.
I'd try another dealership. But the catch can is a super simple removal and reinstall. My dealership told me my intake would not be blamed if I suffered a known problem that can come with some of these engines.
U should also put steel wool as it acts as a filter
Steel wool will rust. Use copper wool instead. The supermarket sells it.
Had one on my 3.5l ecoboost. Don’t live anywhere where it gets close to freezing, but mine would fill up about half to 3/4 every 5k miles. Looked like pure oil. Nothing like that.
Extreme cold brings more condensation
Good video.
Thanks for the visit!
Pretty normal for cold temperatures. Mostly moisture and probably a bit of fuel/oil.
Interesting none the less
My mk6 r collected that amount daily lol in cold
Don i want to order the UPR can like urs i have the 6.2 2021 denali. When ordering they show u can buy extra o rings etc what should i get in your opinion?
I didn’t buy extras but it doesn’t hurt either
How do you clean your catch can and filter?
Brake cleaner spray will do the job. Even some hot soapy water. Key is to have the water completely dry out before reinstalling
@Donslife. How many miles would you guess this 6 week interval was? Thank you!
I can’t recall exactly, maybe 1500-2000? Mostly stop and go around the city
Thank you. @@Donslife
What catch can would you recommend for a 2014 KIA OPTIMA EX w/196k miles?
You could try the k5optimastore.com
I don’t have a Kia to tell you first hand
Catch cans collect a lot of condensation and some oil. Especially in colder weather. An older worn engine or engine with stuck rings would collect a lot more oil.
Great point!
You ve got mayonnaise, oil and water mixed...oil is ok, but water,(coild be the condensation in the air with closeby engine..) would check the summer time if it is the same mayonnaise. I would hope not.
Do you hav any hissing noise? I was planning getting catch can, let me know
No audible changes with my UPR catch can setup. I have the optional check valve too
Why is yours so milky? I have one on my 2021 AT4 6.2L and the oil I catch is more the color of motor oil (slightly watered down). Nothing close to yours. Do you run any additives in your fuel? I am in Texas so maybe the difference in color is due to your extreme cold temps??
It is everything to with the extreme cold. Way more condensation happening.
Hi Don would you install a catch can with a diesel engine?
From what I have read for diesels, if you are experiencing excessive amounts of oil consumption, then a reputable and well designed catch can might be of benefit otherwise you’re probably fine as is. Reducing sludge build up in the intake system is what it would be doing.
Thanks again Don! By the way I loved the lights you placed in your bed, it makes it look so much brighter.
Is this catch can on the clean side or dirty side?
Dirty side (expelled vapors)
www.uprproducts.com/19-24-gm-chevrolet-gmc-truck-6-2l-pro-series-single-valve-oil-catch-can-separator-plug-n-play/
Does it make a big difference if u have installed dual catch can?
It suppose it would make a difference by extending your drain intervals
@@Donslife many thanks
Don; Your Truck is parked outside in those Low Temps, Correct? With all the Water found in the Can, have you experienced that Water being Frozen? Is Water in the Can a reason the Manufacturer recommended removing the Can during the Severe Cold? I live in Central Indiana and we get some of those temps., but not as much as your area. Appreciate any info. Mark.
Yes and yes - Risk of excessive condensation in very cold conditions seems to be the primary reason for more frequent emptying. The water in the can itself was only frozen once the engine bay sat to cool long enough.
I saw someone mention in another post that they add a little antifreeze to the can in winter.
Does this void warranty in a new vehicle?
In both Canada and the US, there are laws that protect us from warranty being denied on a part that is normally covered. Unless it can be proven that the aftermarket part caused the failure.
do u recomend to use oil catch can o nhondas? or leave it oem pcv
You can add one if you want. The main benefit is you won’t have to rely on the engine burning off the returning vapors. Those burnt up particles contribute to build up.
wich bran is best to buy?@@Donslife
@@user-wm4bo4nj8l for a Honda, maybe look at Mishimoto
Educate me on the catch can thing I don't understand why that is I've had 5.3 in 6.2 and never had one on them never had any issues
He has links in his description above to answer your questions titled - catch can install
Nobody Needs a catch can, but you’ll maybe see why some people choose to run them
2 questions-1) exhaust type, 2) tires you have on.
1 - Borla - Here is the video : BORLA S-Type Cat Back Dual Exhaust Install Review 2019 - 2023 GMC Sierra Chevy Silverado 6.2L
ruclips.net/video/lzjipXNF1UM/видео.html
2 - Stock 33” Duratracs on stock 18’s with 1.5” wheel spacers : ruclips.net/video/asgS9PrwKAs/видео.html
Will the engine just burn this off nirmally?? I'm on the fence about getting a catch can for my 2020 chevy 6.2 silverado
Yes the engine will burn up the returned vapors. The worry is the build up that is created over time
Drive it like you stole it must if the time....pretty sure I'm burning up the crap
That is why gm will void your warranty if you have one and have to warranty anything engine related. It's sad
Thats the stuff that would build up on your Turbo lands and or vains, then your polished intake ports and mix with your finally meeterd air fuel ratio to make the closest posible 100% combustion to reduce emisions and make them inert. Well that just became a complete fail. So the government and their money grabbing partners agreed the best way to make this work was to reburn it again another fail
Your truck called and is begging you to get some snow chains.
Except we currently have no snow! ❄️
Does your truck burn oil?
Not really. I heard some have experienced it though
@@Donslife yeah, I’m thinking of buying a 2024 one ton Chevy gasser and heard a lot of them burn a quart of oil every 1300 miles. It has me concerned now.
6.6 liter?
@@Donslife yes. The 6.6 liter 10 speed that’s coming in 2024 model year.
In my opinion, a catch can with a non-serviceable, very coarse filter on a gasoline truck makes very little sense as you demonstrated here.
That was 95% condensation (water) with a small amount of captured oil, because of how your catch can is designed it will not catch much oil.
Here in Australia, we have mostly diesel utes, which are generally 'mid-size pickups'; because of emissions regs in Europe & the US of A these diesels are fitted with a very active EGR to return spent exhaust gases to the engine, the EGR valve is open far more often on a diesel than a gasoline motor, especially at idle and low power demand.
Hot, sooty dirty air. Not good for anything. This sooty air mixes with the oil and blowby gases released through the PCV (crankcase ventilation) and causes the carbon from the EGR to collect as sludge.
This is 1 of the main reasons for failure, loss of power and unreliability of modern diesels.
Because of this many thousands of guys will fit a catch can, these follow 2 general styles - a small aluminium can that unscrews, with or without a filter OR a Mann-Hummel/Ryco engineered can with a Provent 1-micron replaceable filter and drain valve, in my opinion the latter type, while possibly not as attractive is vastly superior.
If fitted incorrectly and if the can is not serviced and the filter is not replaced when necessary, these will blow seals in your engine and could potentially blow an engine.
A GOOD catch can can eliminate most of the oil in the intake, but it does nothing about the EGR spreading soot through your engine.
I used to get a fair amount more oil in my intake when I had a GM 3.6 V6 gas car than what you collected, so I can only assume it's not doing its job very well.
Any product for your vehicle that affects its emissions system that makes no distinction between a gas and diesel engine is either poorly engineered or a scam.
For the little amount that’s ending up in the engine, I wouldn’t bother with all of that. It looks like your oil filter is keeping the greatest share of the contaminates out of your combustion chamber. That stuff might have a tiny effect but nothing to really worry about but it’s your engine so by all means continue.
L I K E 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 💯 💯 💯 💯 💯 🤩❣🤩❣🤩🤩
If you are returning the exit line from your catch can back to your cold air intake. You are returning probably 1/3 more of what you just dumped into the truck tears jar back through your intake system. And into your combustion chamber. That is what is messing with the air-fuel ratio. And the HP and the MPG. I call it wallet tears because it just sucks money out of your wallet. It's really engine sewage. No wonder they want all these extra emission control systems on vehicles. That shit just can't be burned. And it messes with your clean burning air fuel ratio so it can't preform properly. It's a hoxe. Like masks to protect you from harmful virus infection's
PS I have a DIY much larger catch can 4"X 7" with a 1.5" deep reservoir at the bottom to collect that engine sewage. The 1" inlet port has a 90% elbow going down to 1" from the bottom, the tube going down is a 1/2 tube with 1/4 " baffled holes then A baffle plate covering the reservoir then the can is filled with SS wool pot scrubbers to just below the exit port now you put a 4" round baffle plate on top of that and fill the can up with more SS wool pot scrubbers to make a can that has excessive collection ability of anything that is to pass through the can the can is well filtered so venting to the atmosphere should be air. But I am not running any of that sewage back to the combustion chamber fowling the fuel injection tips, valve stems, etc, air intake manifold. And more. This defeated the scientifically metered air-fuel ratio to give the best and cleanest combustion chamber burn. As well as HP and MPG. Leading to the cleanest emissions possible giving the longest engine life. A properly-tuned and maintained diesel engine will have a life well above 500K miles with no black smoke etc. Arguments. I'm listening. Crickets. Yes.
P.S. the Can has a 3/8" ball check drain valve in the bottom for easy of draining whenever you want. I do it every 4K oil and filter servicing. More if I'm doing a lot of stop-and-go driving. I'm not suggesting you do the same. But I increased the MPG by 1/3 after the deletes. With the 1" ID tubing to and from the catch can CCV has not shown any seal or gasket leaks. So PCV is good.
Now, look in the line going back into the engine. See if there is any crap in it.
Yes