This guide pretty much applies to all creality printers. I showed how to change the values in the normal screen as well as the TFT. Is there something missing? @@fredblogs
@@3DPrintscape I do have a screen but the Elegoo 4 pro does not allow you to alter the e steps without a laptop. Something that I have failed to connect at the moment.
Again, Rob. You knocked this one out of the park. So sick of watching fancy intros and useless videos that seem to just "complicate" what is going on. Best video I've found so far on this issue. I needed this today. YOUR video is the one that finally made sense. TYVM!
Liked and subbed my friend. This video helped me get my Micro Swiss direct extruder dialed in. The thing was a pain in the ass to get to print well with the settings they suggested. I did all the steps in your video and boom my prints are back to normal. Can't thank you enough! All the best! Sim
Thank you so much, Rob! Im new to 3d printing, my ender 3 prints are bad straight out of the box. Found out that i need to bump my e-steps to 239.69. Before calibrating, i always override my flow rate to 210% to compensate.
Using the btt touch screen simply cranking up the extrude setting and hitting extrude is going to put the same pressure you was talking about when using emulated mode. What you didn't mention is that the touchscreen has a terminal, allowing entry of gcode to control the extrude more precisely: M92 return estep value G1 E100 F50 extrude 100mm slowly M92 [n] set esteps to value [n] In your case : M92 100.82 Of course that needs to be saved to eprom with: M500 Terminal is your friend and is also good for pid autotune
Thanks Rob, I should have done this a while ago but the other explanations I saw were too confusion. Thanks for being straight to the point and concise. 👍
Hey Rob. Thank you very much for this e-step guide. I had severs under extrusions and simetimes my hotend would clog from over extrusion. i couldn't quite get a perfect e step but when i did the calibration i had somewhere around 20.15mm of filament left from the extruder to the point i marked on the filament. it is good enough right now.
Hi Rob and thanks 👍 I just installed a new extruder and this one was of 4 36 mm Maybe a advise 4 everyone The old single extruder on my Ender 3 has a big wheel The new one has a small wheel So it isn't just a swap 🤔🤗
@@3DPrintscape no worries. I was just following and trying to figure my printer out. I have the Ender 3 Pro and it prints my parts like a honeycomb. Seems to be very under-extruded. I have used all your videos for setting my printer up and running it. Thank you for the great videos! I hope this helps my parts to print correctly.
I have to say, you really did an amazing job of explaining this in simple terms. I would like to have watched you doing the measurements on the filament itself so I could just see, but my presumption is you simply measured from where the filament started to enter the extruder backwards 120mm. And, I also suppose you picked 120 as an arbitrary number which is larger than you would expect so you could get that measurement of 27.x or whatever it was showing you the difference. Anyway, great job!! Now, I am a sub :) ps - thank you for serving our country
Hi. Thanks for the feedback, and sub, I appreciate it :). I tried to record as much as i could on the measurement but my arm blocked a lot of it out. I choose 120mm to give 20mm of leeway. The tune is for 100mm but if you just mark at 100mm and your over extruding it will be difficult to get a good reading.
Thanks Rob! Another super helpful video! I made some modifications on my Ender 5 which required me to recalibrate e steps. The recommended 415 esteps from Bondtech for the DDX was over extruding. My math was more like 302. Much appreciate it👍🏾
Your math threw me off, and probably had you scratching your head with your next print if you didn't catch the error. That worked great for me and is so much less intimidating doing it through the machine than the computer and software. Thanks
Hi. Thanks for the feedback and ya the math ended up being wrong when i actually recorded the video, though i did it 5 times ahead of the video lol. I corrected it in the written instructions though.
@@3DPrintscape Right or Wrong it allowed me to get my e-step where it was supposed to be. Do you have a video for things coming out too tight. Some of the nuts and bolts have been too tight to the point of getting permanently stuck together. I know there is a spot in cura to make minus or plus adjustments, but I lost my settings when I upgraded cura version last night and now I can't remember where I made the change.
Hey, I have a filament sensor and the mark stays inside of the sensor so it makes it quite hard to measure, any other way to do it, if u have a filament sensor?
6:15 Do you have a set up video? Not about the actual set up of the printer, but the additional 'hidden' stuff i.e. The fillament feeder on my printer is loose, it's not as neat as your one. Also, I am wary about cable tieing in case I hamper movement of filament etc. Would be great to have a short video on these minor customisations for optimatisation/workflow. Looked through the channel and subbed because you will be a good resource on this journey.
Great tutorial as always. I am very new to 3d printing. I have an ender 3 Pro, all was working great until my most recent print. I went to recalibrate the esteps again and seems to be over extruding by at least 80mm. Could use some advice on this please
Hi. Wow thats over extruding a lot. Have you made any major changes to the extruder and have you tried a different roll of filament to make sure thats not the problem? Also, if you want to char about it more you can join us on discord. discord.gg/Bu94EYVkrU
@@3DPrintscape No haven't made any changes at all just changed the nozzle but was still working ok after that until yesterday. I will join now and can hopefully solve this
Hello I have found the skr mini e3 to be very susceptible to static discharge, especially when the air is dry/winter time. I have had mine do all kinds of odd things in the winter or when it’s really dry outside.
Nice video! I am struggling to change the value at my Ender 3 dashboard. I followed the videos to install a BLTouch on an 8-bit board which were easy to follow and it worked out well. However my printer's dashboard doesn't have the "configurations" tab. Do you know how to solve this?
hi! im very very very new to 3d printing and i just instaled my bltouch and im triyng to adjust the z offset but the thing is, when the extruder heats up to about 150f it starts extruding i always use PLA filament so i dont know if that is over extruding could you please help me on this?thanks.
Hello! Great videos, I'm having another issue tho, my printer does not go to the end of the bed in the X axis, it's stopping 15mm before, I can move it manually by pushing it and it will reach, but if I do it from the movex (position 220 which is the max) or by octoprint, I can't get it to go to the end. Do you know what this could be?
Hi. Sorry your running into issues here. The formula is (E/(120-D))*100 = New E-step Value and D = Averaged distance measured & E = Existing E-step value. This article may help as well. 3dprintscape.com/3d-printer-e-step-calibration/
@@3DPrintscapeI think that formula on the link is incorrect. I believe it should be (E/(120-D))*120 if you multiply by 100 and not 120 you have a mismatch of lengths in the ratio formula. E is S/mm actual length is mm multiply them and you have S (steps) because mm cancels out. The printer requires an input of steps per mm so then you multiply it with the desired length 120mm to put the answer into s/mm.
@@MiningMagnets The formula in the video and link are correct. Keep in mind the 120mm is only used when doing the measurements so you have a buffer if you are over extruding.
Okay... here's a question. Would I be over simplifying things if I were to say: Measure the amount of filament extruded vs. the amount the machine "thinks" it being extruded...AND THEN use simple math we all learned in high school called "CROSS MULTIPLICATION" to come to a "value/percentage" and just simply ADJUST THE FLOW RATE in the slicer to achieve the same results? Am I over-simplifying it or is this NOT the same principle? the only difference I am seeing is you are STORING the value in the firmware...am I correct? Please, correct me if I am wrong! (/scratches head)
hmmm... i'm re-thinking... i guess the REASON you would do this is so that you could STORE the result for each individual printer.... my version of a solution would only work for a SINGLE PRINTER....(using cura/cross multiply/percentage)... am i right? or am i right???
Hi. The e-steps and flow rate are actually separate and both should be calibrated. The e-steps make sure your printer is pushing the amount of filament it thinks it is. The flow rate is similar but focuses on wall thickness. I made a video covering that as well. ruclips.net/video/3PtS9vVCev8/видео.html
@@devinharter3858 When you make a change, you need to find save (or store) settings, if you miss this step the changes will not persist after powering off the printer. Power cycle is just powering the printer off and back on.
Hi. I have noticed that being the case for me as well. If your going between filament types, its worth having the numbers stored somewhere to reference.
@@3DPrintscape man your channel has helped me tremendously. you can probably tell from my series of questions that i am diving deeper and deeper into the rabit hole. I do have a question about your cura preset standard profile for ender 3 pro. do you have inital layer flow set to 95 percent on purpose? i just wanted to understand your thought process with it. I have been getting my prints to stick and cleaning up daily. was wondering if i changed this to 100 percent of my first layer would change at all. for the better or worse. once again thanks for everything. you are one of the most valuable members of the 3d printing community i have come across so far. so genuine. thank you and have a wonderful day!
@@codymccoy9295 Thanks for the feedback, i appreciate it. There are a lot of opinions on the best config for the first layer. I tend to find what works best for me and stick with it. I switched it to 95% when i was seeing issues with the dimensions of what was being printed. You could test moving it back to see it that works better with your printer.
@@3DPrintscape will do. I have been having some other problems... lmao one step forward 2 steps back. Now I have gotten to the point that my first 10 to 15 layers are absolutely phenomenal! Then my nozzle will clog up. I had an 8 hour print fail on me, my first spaghetti monster, and every few layers it was solid and then nothing. I know it is clogged because when I stopped the print I tried to manually push some filament through and it wouldn't budge. I'm gonna try upgrading my couplings and going to the all metal extruder. Then completely clear up the clog and pray. It's tough. Like I said first 10 or 20 layers were solid perfection then it just looks like ghost layers. Sad times but im getting there!
@3D Printscape no clog I checked it is printing and there is a lot of extra filiament on my prints like a clump of thick string and when it is done printing does not finish a part but it has the clumps on it.
@@ronaldpeel7288 The setting is unique per printer. I cover the process in this video and have a good article coving it that you can get to from the description.
I hope you found this overview helpful! If you have any questions or would like other tips/tricks, just let me know in the comments.
I hope you realise that you cannot alter the E steps like this on most printers.
This guide pretty much applies to all creality printers. I showed how to change the values in the normal screen as well as the TFT. Is there something missing? @@fredblogs
@@3DPrintscape Like you say, simple if you have a printer that doesn’t need a computer.
Ah, your saying your printer doesnt have a screen at all? If thats the case there are g code commands to do each step as well. @@fredblogs
@@3DPrintscape I do have a screen but the Elegoo 4 pro does not allow you to alter the e steps without a laptop. Something that I have failed to connect at the moment.
Changed a nozzle out and was losing my mind with the horrible quality of my prints! This fixed everything! Thank you 🙏
Glad to help :)
Again, Rob. You knocked this one out of the park. So sick of watching fancy intros and useless videos that seem to just "complicate" what is going on. Best video I've found so far on this issue. I needed this today. YOUR video is the one that finally made sense. TYVM!
Hi. Awesome, I'm glad I was able to help and thanks for the feedback.
His videos have always been the best at explaining things.
Liked and subbed my friend. This video helped me get my Micro Swiss direct extruder dialed in. The thing was a pain in the ass to get to print well with the settings they suggested. I did all the steps in your video and boom my prints are back to normal. Can't thank you enough! All the best! Sim
Hi. Thanks for the feedback and support, im glad i was able to help :)
I upgraded my extruder and it was under exreuding. It fixed the issue. Thanks man
You’re Welcome
Just got a cr10v3 a month ago and as my first printer I couldn’t be any more of a newbie so thansk for all the help
You're Welcome
Simplest and clearest explanation of this process on RUclips. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Damded-tootin'! haha
Old post but your a star thanks buddy am well happy now
Good to hear
Taking multiple measurements is great but you have a math error. 9300 / 92.24 = 100.8 not 108.8. Your estop value roughly should be 100.8.
Hi. Ya your right. I did it right five times before recording but messed up the recording. The formula/process is right though.
I also think he should have multiplied by 120 to get steps and cancel out mm
Thanks! I was also confused by the math! The correct should be 100.8!
Been fighting with my DDX for about 2 weeks now. Thanks to you bro my issues are resolved!
Glad to help
Excellent video! I was having problems with my prints until I seen this video! Thank You!
You're welcome!
Excellent video. Easy to understand clean english
Hi. Thanks for the feedback :).
Thank you so much, Rob! Im new to 3d printing, my ender 3 prints are bad straight out of the box. Found out that i need to bump my e-steps to 239.69. Before calibrating, i always override my flow rate to 210% to compensate.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. The only thing worth mentioning is that your adjustment is very high so there may be something else going on.
Using the btt touch screen simply cranking up the extrude setting and hitting extrude is going to put the same pressure you was talking about when using emulated mode.
What you didn't mention is that the touchscreen has a terminal, allowing entry of gcode to control the extrude more precisely:
M92 return estep value
G1 E100 F50 extrude 100mm slowly
M92 [n] set esteps to value [n]
In your case :
M92 100.82
Of course that needs to be saved to eprom with:
M500
Terminal is your friend and is also good for pid autotune
Thanks for the info.
Thanks Rob, I should have done this a while ago but the other explanations I saw were too confusion. Thanks for being straight to the point and concise. 👍
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. If there are other videos your looking for let me know. If i dont have one covering the topic i may be able to make it.
Hey Rob. Thank you very much for this e-step guide. I had severs under extrusions and simetimes my hotend would clog from over extrusion. i couldn't quite get a perfect e step but when i did the calibration i had somewhere around 20.15mm of filament left from the extruder to the point i marked on the filament. it is good enough right now.
Hi. You're welcome, and Im glad everything is working.
I was off by 8.66mm on my Ender 3 v2 Neo. TYVM
Hi. That would impact the prints for sure.
This video helped me out, thank you
Glad it helped
THANKYOU! i have a cr 10 smart and the feed function would not work without the dry method you saved my ass!!!!
You're Welcome
Hi Rob and thanks 👍
I just installed a new extruder and this one was of 4 36 mm
Maybe a advise 4 everyone
The old single extruder on my Ender 3 has a big wheel
The new one has a small wheel
So it isn't just a swap
🤔🤗
Hi. Thanks for the info.
great video! on to your flow video.
Thanks for the feedback :)
If you change to a dual gear extruder, you have to recalibrate your esteps, since the gear diameter changed.
Hi. You are correct. It really should be done anytime there is a change in the hotend or extruder.
Awesome steps to follow. Thanks for making this video.
You're welcome!
Just curious how you got 108? I get 100.82 when I do your math. I know I am doing something wrong. What am I missing?
Hi. The value you got is right, i wrote it down wrong :(. Sorry about that.
@@3DPrintscape no worries. I was just following and trying to figure my printer out. I have the Ender 3 Pro and it prints my parts like a honeycomb. Seems to be very under-extruded. I have used all your videos for setting my printer up and running it. Thank you for the great videos! I hope this helps my parts to print correctly.
@@electri6man If you run into any issues, just let me know and I will try to help out.
As always, you're very helpful. Thank Rob :)
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. You're Welcome!
I have to say, you really did an amazing job of explaining this in simple terms. I would like to have watched you doing the measurements on the filament itself so I could just see, but my presumption is you simply measured from where the filament started to enter the extruder backwards 120mm. And, I also suppose you picked 120 as an arbitrary number which is larger than you would expect so you could get that measurement of 27.x or whatever it was showing you the difference.
Anyway, great job!! Now, I am a sub :)
ps - thank you for serving our country
Hi. Thanks for the feedback, and sub, I appreciate it :). I tried to record as much as i could on the measurement but my arm blocked a lot of it out. I choose 120mm to give 20mm of leeway. The tune is for 100mm but if you just mark at 100mm and your over extruding it will be difficult to get a good reading.
Thanks Rob! Another super helpful video! I made some modifications on my Ender 5 which required me to recalibrate e steps.
The recommended 415 esteps from Bondtech for the DDX was over extruding. My math was more like 302.
Much appreciate it👍🏾
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. :)
Rob, you are the man!
Thanks :)
Thank you! This actually is the ‘easy way’ and I can deal with that much math. Should anything be done with the other stepper motors?
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. I dont normally calibrate the other ones as they are not as critical but you can adjust them if needed.
Excellent tutoria !!!
Thank you
You're welcome!
Great video!
Thanks!
Your math threw me off, and probably had you scratching your head with your next print if you didn't catch the error. That worked great for me and is so much less intimidating doing it through the machine than the computer and software. Thanks
Hi. Thanks for the feedback and ya the math ended up being wrong when i actually recorded the video, though i did it 5 times ahead of the video lol. I corrected it in the written instructions though.
@@3DPrintscape Right or Wrong it allowed me to get my e-step where it was supposed to be.
Do you have a video for things coming out too tight. Some of the nuts and bolts have been too tight to the point of getting permanently stuck together.
I know there is a spot in cura to make minus or plus adjustments, but I lost my settings when I upgraded cura version last night and now I can't remember where I made the change.
@@DaveM2 I dont have a video for that but if you increase the scale from 100% to 102% on the nut, or bolt, depending on needs it should fix the issue.
I'll try it, thanks. I made a calibration cube which helped a little, but I'll play around with the sizing too. Thanks
Thank u so much bro my printer was underextruding by 42 mm
Glad I could help
This helps thx
You're Welcome!
We can fix under/over extrusion also calibrating the flow or are different issues?
Hi. You will want to calibrate the esteps first, then you can calibrate the flow rate if needed.
hi - very helpful, where can i get the 3d file yoou used for testing?
Hi. If i use a file in a video, i link to it in the description. I didnt use a file for e-steps though.
Rob I got 130 steps/mm for filament that seemed hard and Ridgid, and the softer pla+ was 108 steps/mm. Maybe my math is bad
Hi. I dont think your math is bad, I see difference between filament types (PLA, PETG, TPU, ETC).
I have seen multiple video’s of these and i keep comming out on 260mm it that Healthy or is something broken?
Hi. It seems like something is off, thats a lot higher than i would expect to see.
Hey, I have a filament sensor and the mark stays inside of the sensor so it makes it quite hard to measure, any other way to do it, if u have a filament sensor?
Hi. I would adjust the measurements further out. Maybe go 150mm or something like that.
@@3DPrintscape The calculations would remain the same right just different values?
@@nunungus Ya
6:15 Do you have a set up video? Not about the actual set up of the printer, but the additional 'hidden' stuff i.e. The fillament feeder on my printer is loose, it's not as neat as your one. Also, I am wary about cable tieing in case I hamper movement of filament etc.
Would be great to have a short video on these minor customisations for optimatisation/workflow.
Looked through the channel and subbed because you will be a good resource on this journey.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback. I didnt do a basic setup video. There were a lot out there and i didnt know if it would be wanted/needed.
Great tutorial as always. I am very new to 3d printing. I have an ender 3 Pro, all was working great until my most recent print. I went to recalibrate the esteps again and seems to be over extruding by at least 80mm. Could use some advice on this please
Hi. Wow thats over extruding a lot. Have you made any major changes to the extruder and have you tried a different roll of filament to make sure thats not the problem? Also, if you want to char about it more you can join us on discord. discord.gg/Bu94EYVkrU
@@3DPrintscape No haven't made any changes at all just changed the nozzle but was still working ok after that until yesterday. I will join now and can hopefully solve this
Hello I have found the skr mini e3 to be very susceptible to static discharge, especially when the air is dry/winter time.
I have had mine do all kinds of odd things in the winter or when it’s really dry outside.
So when is an e-step value a sign that something is wrong? I'm at 144,9,seems kinda high (and took forever to put in via dial😆)
Hi. That does seem a bit high, so there could be something else going on with your printer.
Nice video! I am struggling to change the value at my Ender 3 dashboard. I followed the videos to install a BLTouch on an 8-bit board which were easy to follow and it worked out well. However my printer's dashboard doesn't have the "configurations" tab. Do you know how to solve this?
Hi. Thats probably related to the firmware itself. I dont have an 8-bit board any more to do testing to check though.
@@3DPrintscape Hi, thanks do you know this can be solved if I buy a new 32-bit board to replace the 8-bit board that is now on my printer?
@@alecdekoning6522 I believe it would be.
hi! im very very very new to 3d printing and i just instaled my bltouch and im triyng to adjust the z offset but the thing is, when the extruder heats up to about 150f it starts extruding i always use PLA filament so i dont know if that is over extruding could you please help me on this?thanks.
Hi. Its normal for the filament to come out like that when the nozzle is up to temp. I typically remove the filament when setting my offset.
Hello! Great videos, I'm having another issue tho, my printer does not go to the end of the bed in the X axis, it's stopping 15mm before, I can move it manually by pushing it and it will reach, but if I do it from the movex (position 220 which is the max) or by octoprint, I can't get it to go to the end. Do you know what this could be?
Hi. What firmware are you using?
@@3DPrintscape i was using stock firmware 1.0.2, now i've installed marlin aftermarket one and i was able to fix the issue.
@@lautarogatti Cool, im glad you got it working :).
what if my printer doesn't have a option for extrude length when you need it through i got a longer Lk1
Hi. The fallback option would be to use Pronterface and g-code.
Should you be multiplying by 120? 120mm times 93step/mm will give you 1160 steps?
Yes, everytime I used your equation my delta was off more and more because you need to multiply by distance mm
Hi. Sorry your running into issues here. The formula is (E/(120-D))*100 = New E-step Value and D = Averaged distance measured & E = Existing E-step value. This article may help as well. 3dprintscape.com/3d-printer-e-step-calibration/
@@3DPrintscapeI think that formula on the link is incorrect. I believe it should be (E/(120-D))*120 if you multiply by 100 and not 120 you have a mismatch of lengths in the ratio formula. E is S/mm actual length is mm multiply them and you have S (steps) because mm cancels out. The printer requires an input of steps per mm so then you multiply it with the desired length 120mm to put the answer into s/mm.
@@MiningMagnets The formula in the video and link are correct. Keep in mind the 120mm is only used when doing the measurements so you have a buffer if you are over extruding.
@@3DPrintscape oh!!! Now I get it. You tell the printer to move 100mm not 120mm. Thanks for the explanation.
Is it necessary to do this after changing the mother board?
Hi. I would recommend doing this after any major change.
@@3DPrintscape thanks
@@Lost13 You're Welcome
What is the screen you have?
Hi. Its the TFT35.
Okay... here's a question. Would I be over simplifying things if I were to say: Measure the amount of filament extruded vs. the amount the machine "thinks" it being extruded...AND THEN use simple math we all learned in high school called "CROSS MULTIPLICATION" to come to a "value/percentage" and just simply ADJUST THE FLOW RATE in the slicer to achieve the same results? Am I over-simplifying it or is this NOT the same principle? the only difference I am seeing is you are STORING the value in the firmware...am I correct? Please, correct me if I am wrong! (/scratches head)
hmmm... i'm re-thinking... i guess the REASON you would do this is so that you could STORE the result for each individual printer.... my version of a solution would only work for a SINGLE PRINTER....(using cura/cross multiply/percentage)... am i right? or am i right???
Hi. The e-steps and flow rate are actually separate and both should be calibrated. The e-steps make sure your printer is pushing the amount of filament it thinks it is. The flow rate is similar but focuses on wall thickness. I made a video covering that as well. ruclips.net/video/3PtS9vVCev8/видео.html
When I change my e steps it doesn't stay. It always goes back to 93
Hi, is that after a power cycle and are you saving them?
@@3DPrintscape I guess I don't know how to save. Also not sure what is a power cycle.
@@devinharter3858 When you make a change, you need to find save (or store) settings, if you miss this step the changes will not persist after powering off the printer. Power cycle is just powering the printer off and back on.
@@3DPrintscape thanks
Omg I was off by 85 mm thanks.
Hi. Wow thats a big difference. Something else may be going on, but if your getting the same results every time, your probably fine for now.
@@3DPrintscape I think its because i changed to a dual gear extruder a while back
@@Ironspider23- Ah ok, that would make sense.
i got 100.82 when i divided 9300 by 92,24
Hi. Your right, i did the math 5 times before the video but messed up recording The formula is right though, which is the important part.
Hate to say it but I have to do it on all the filaments. It varies and not intuitively. Hard filaments got more e steps!
Hi. I have noticed that being the case for me as well. If your going between filament types, its worth having the numbers stored somewhere to reference.
i dont understand... 9300/92.24 equals 100.82 did i miss a step in the calculations?
okay i just saw in other comments you had just messed up the recording. i can still use the formula for myself tho right?
Hi. Ya that was my bad. The formula is right though.
@@3DPrintscape man your channel has helped me tremendously. you can probably tell from my series of questions that i am diving deeper and deeper into the rabit hole. I do have a question about your cura preset standard profile for ender 3 pro. do you have inital layer flow set to 95 percent on purpose? i just wanted to understand your thought process with it. I have been getting my prints to stick and cleaning up daily. was wondering if i changed this to 100 percent of my first layer would change at all. for the better or worse. once again thanks for everything. you are one of the most valuable members of the 3d printing community i have come across so far. so genuine. thank you and have a wonderful day!
@@codymccoy9295 Thanks for the feedback, i appreciate it. There are a lot of opinions on the best config for the first layer. I tend to find what works best for me and stick with it. I switched it to 95% when i was seeing issues with the dimensions of what was being printed. You could test moving it back to see it that works better with your printer.
@@3DPrintscape will do. I have been having some other problems... lmao one step forward 2 steps back. Now I have gotten to the point that my first 10 to 15 layers are absolutely phenomenal! Then my nozzle will clog up. I had an 8 hour print fail on me, my first spaghetti monster, and every few layers it was solid and then nothing. I know it is clogged because when I stopped the print I tried to manually push some filament through and it wouldn't budge. I'm gonna try upgrading my couplings and going to the all metal extruder. Then completely clear up the clog and pray. It's tough. Like I said first 10 or 20 layers were solid perfection then it just looks like ghost layers. Sad times but im getting there!
I got 100.82 for your calculations…
Hi. The formula is right but i did the math wrong and didnt catch it until someone pointed it out.
@@3DPrintscape i thought i was the only one. thank you for the video.
I replaced my extruder now when I print it is like clump of plastic on my prints
Hi. It sounds like you may have a small clog in the nozzle. Hard to say for sure though.
@3D Printscape no clog I checked it is printing and there is a lot of extra filiament on my prints like a clump of thick string and when it is done printing does not finish a part but it has the clumps on it.
@@ronaldpeel7288 Ok, so it sounds like its blobs. I would check your e-steps.
@@3DPrintscape ok how do I check that and what should it be at
@@ronaldpeel7288 The setting is unique per printer. I cover the process in this video and have a good article coving it that you can get to from the description.
9300/92.24= 100.82 not 108.82
Hi, Yes i know, i messed up in the recording. Sorry about that. The formula is correct.
9300/92.29=100.82
Hi. Ya your math is right.
@@3DPrintscape okay just needed to triple check that. Did the estep and flow rate, prints are in great spec 👍
@@WakandaBananas Awesome, thats great to hear.
Hehe it took a lil grey shit.
Robotic excrement.
Hi. Thanks for the good laugh :).
Is it just me or did you do your math wrong?
Hi. The formula is right but i did the math wrong and didnt catch it until someone pointed it out.