Excellent mod. Currently running the fan with a capacitor in parallel to cancel out the (ticking) pwm noise, and quite happy with it, but i might give this a go. Nice little project.
If you ever run into the problem that the adjuster knob dances its values all over the place when you try to increase just a tenth of a volt: you need to solder two 0.1uF ceramic caps in series on the 3 pins of the knob to add some filtering (that is required according to spec) and that will solve the problem for like 95%..
Can you clarify that a bit further? Serial connection doesn't make a lot of sense in my understanding. Do you mean to put these caps between the wiper pin and each of the other two pins, so one lefty and one righty?
Thanks for an excellent tutorial! I found that 5mm LEDs are actually too tall and were pushing the front panel window/lens away from the case of the PSU. I think I can see this at approx 7:26 in your video - look at the shadow above the 'adjust' knob. Tbe stock LEDs are an uncommon 4mm size so I used 3mm as replacements.
Yep, I should have read the comment section (your comment) before. I swapped in 5mm LEDs, only to find out that they are too tall and they would scratch against the front - and the PCB would need to be bent to screw it back in. So I had to replace the LEDs again - now using 3mm LEDs, which worked great. The hint about using bright LEDs was certainly good though.
5mm LEDs don't work with my Korad as they are too long, Cannot find 4mm LEDs so I used 3mm which need to be positioned quite exactly but then it worked. Why did you solder off the buzzer when you could simply switch it off as described in the manual?
Hi... awesome mod! Is there a way to change the unused M5 LED to control the Lock function? So, when the keys are locked, the LED is turned on. Thanks.
Excellent mod and very inspiring, thank you! Are you planning to make a completed and programmed controller-PCB available? It could be quite a big hit - the rest of the parts and mods are easy to follow and well within reach of many weekend modders like me, but the ATtiny is not so easy. Thanks.
Hi, the blue resistor R3 is blown on my device (mounted on the upper edge of the board shown @min 4:00 - 4:08) could you tell me it's value, so i could replace it.
Hi Steffen, sorry for the slow response, was on vacation last week. You're in luck, I still have one open and could quickly measure. R3 is 10 Ohms 5%, probably 2W. Colors brn blk blk gold. Good luck with your repairs!
@@johndoe271828 please, Pay your attention 1) In which program You have written code in C? There is a link? 2) What is the algorithm of cooling the cooler? From 16 to 50 *Celsius and with what step?
Cool mod, i wonder if a extra fan would make that whole system a lot more quiet cause there's no airflow in the case what so ever from the looks of it.
Was looking at this power supply, but the fan noise was putting me off. Might get it and just add a thermal resistor sensor circuit attached the to heat sink driving the fan and a better low noise fan.
Hi Nikolay, thanks for the compliment :-) I thought about doing a PCB (albeit I'd probably do it in CircuitMaker, I'm not a big fan of KiCad to be honest), but didn't know if it was useful to enough people to warrant creating one. Do you think so? I definitely consider doing it (also because it can be used in more applications than just the Korad supply).
Thanks for the video! Was I impressed! I want to re-upgrade KORAD! 1) In which program You have written code in C? There is a link? 2) What is the algorithm of cooling the cooler? From 16 to 50 *Celsius and with what step?
Hi John, It seems that I got the same version as yours since every components look the same. I noticed thought that in the video of eevblog that the usb control board had opto coupler to isolate the usb signal from the psu main and I don't have like yours this kind of upgrade. Do you know if you got an earlier version or an old one? Thanks
Excellent engineering and video. Question - would just replacing the stock fan with the one you chose be an improvement for the average user? Quieter and/or more reliable?
MegaBakerdude while not as advanced as this mod, a simple capacitor in parallel to the fan might suite your needs... it reduced my fan noise to acceptable levels. ruclips.net/video/RJbagaIx8no/видео.html
Great mod. Didn't have the time to apply it to mine but, yes, holidays are ahead. Since you use already a micro controller. What about feeding back the noise level (via a cheap mirophone) and let the software learn the best cooling strategy?
Good Video and engineering man! Ordered my KA3005P yesterday looking forward to do some mods. Do you think the Fan type "ARCTIC F8 TC" could do the job at once?
Hi Norbert, I used an ARCTIC F8, so I'm pretty certain that the F8 TC would also work as well! All the best with your mod and thanks for the praise :-) Joe
Hi Norbert, saw this comment and decided to check whether the F8 TC works. And it works great, at idle and low load it's spinning at 500rpm. I've glued the thermistor to the heatsink and above 32°C it will start spinning faster. It's super quiet now, thanks for the suggestion
Hi, really nice mod you have there and I'm willing to try it on my PSU and made a PCB ready for the programming part. Now here is where I'm stuck. I only ever used arduino and the IDE software (.ino files). But your software is a .C file and a make file. Now, the question is how you programm the MCU using this type of files?. Since I am an absolute beginner when it comes to programming MCU's any help is much appreciate . Ive set an arduino uno as ISP programmer and managed to load a simple blinking led on the ATTiny13A chip just to verify that the chip is working. I've used the arduino IDE software.
Hi Ovi, I haven't used Arduino at all so far -- so with the Ardunio IDE I think I cannot help you. However, you don't need to do any Arduino work and can simply directly flash the firmware image ("main.bin" in the binary/) tree on the ATtiny13. You don't have to bother at all with compiling anything then! HTH, all the best, Joe
Nice hobbyist project, and don’t get me wrong, but it’s such a total overkill. As has been said here before, get a 50 degrees C thermostat switch (normally open) for about $2 at Amazon or wherever, screw it onto the heat sink and solder it into one of the wires to the fan.
Excellent mod. Currently running the fan with a capacitor in parallel to cancel out the (ticking) pwm noise, and quite happy with it, but i might give this a go. Nice little project.
If you ever run into the problem that the adjuster knob dances its values all over the place when you try to increase just a tenth of a volt: you need to solder two 0.1uF ceramic caps in series on the 3 pins of the knob to add some filtering (that is required according to spec) and that will solve the problem for like 95%..
Can you clarify that a bit further?
Serial connection doesn't make a lot of sense in my understanding. Do you mean to put these caps between the wiper pin and each of the other two pins, so one lefty and one righty?
Thanks for an excellent tutorial!
I found that 5mm LEDs are actually too tall and were pushing the front panel window/lens away from the case of the PSU. I think I can see this at approx 7:26 in your video - look at the shadow above the 'adjust' knob. Tbe stock LEDs are an uncommon 4mm size so I used 3mm as replacements.
Yep, I should have read the comment section (your comment) before. I swapped in 5mm LEDs, only to find out that they are too tall and they would scratch against the front - and the PCB would need to be bent to screw it back in. So I had to replace the LEDs again - now using 3mm LEDs, which worked great. The hint about using bright LEDs was certainly good though.
5mm LEDs don't work with my Korad as they are too long, Cannot find 4mm LEDs so I used 3mm which need to be positioned quite exactly but then it worked.
Why did you solder off the buzzer when you could simply switch it off as described in the manual?
careful, be careful.. its called people'ual and nobody reads the people'ual
Thank you for sharing. Very insight full video well done....
Hi... awesome mod! Is there a way to change the unused M5 LED to control the Lock function? So, when the keys are locked, the LED is turned on. Thanks.
м5 used - press M4 and turn the encoder to the right.
Good idea! Thanks
Excellent mod and very inspiring, thank you! Are you planning to make a completed and programmed controller-PCB available? It could be quite a big hit - the rest of the parts and mods are easy to follow and well within reach of many weekend modders like me, but the ATtiny is not so easy. Thanks.
Hi, the blue resistor R3 is blown on my device (mounted on the upper edge of the board shown @min 4:00 - 4:08) could you tell me it's value, so i could replace it.
Hi Steffen, sorry for the slow response, was on vacation last week. You're in luck, I still have one open and could quickly measure. R3 is 10 Ohms 5%, probably 2W. Colors brn blk blk gold. Good luck with your repairs!
Thank you so much, hope to get it working again.
@@johndoe271828 please, Pay your attention
1) In which program You have written code in C? There is a link?
2) What is the algorithm of cooling the cooler? From 16 to 50 *Celsius and with what step?
Do you sell the moded version? I would like to get one of those but not skilled enough to do it myself. Thanks.
Hey I would like to buy a modded KA3005P from you, is this possible? Would be AWESOME!
Cool mod, i wonder if a extra fan would make that whole system a lot more quiet cause there's no airflow in the case what so ever from the looks of it.
Was looking at this power supply, but the fan noise was putting me off.
Might get it and just add a thermal resistor sensor circuit attached the to heat sink driving the fan and a better low noise fan.
Korad has updated the power supply several times. I bought mine in Oct 2020 and the fan is pretty quiet.
Nice video and mod man! What about making PCB in KiCad software for example?
Hi Nikolay, thanks for the compliment :-) I thought about doing a PCB (albeit I'd probably do it in CircuitMaker, I'm not a big fan of KiCad to be honest), but didn't know if it was useful to enough people to warrant creating one. Do you think so? I definitely consider doing it (also because it can be used in more applications than just the Korad supply).
Thanks for the video! Was I impressed! I want to re-upgrade KORAD!
1) In which program You have written code in C? There is a link?
2) What is the algorithm of cooling the cooler? From 16 to 50 *Celsius and with what step?
PonyProg -> File -> save as -> hex.
Programming Khazama AVR with USBasp. Thanks me!
Hi John, It seems that I got the same version as yours since every components look the same. I noticed thought that in the video of eevblog that the usb control board had opto coupler to isolate the usb signal from the psu main and I don't have like yours this kind of upgrade. Do you know if you got an earlier version or an old one?
Thanks
Excellent engineering and video. Question - would just replacing the stock fan with the one you chose be an improvement for the average user? Quieter and/or more reliable?
MegaBakerdude while not as advanced as this mod, a simple capacitor in parallel to the fan might suite your needs... it reduced my fan noise to acceptable levels.
ruclips.net/video/RJbagaIx8no/видео.html
Great mod. Didn't have the time to apply it to mine but, yes, holidays are ahead. Since you use already a micro controller. What about feeding back the noise level (via a cheap mirophone) and let the software learn the best cooling strategy?
Good Video and engineering man! Ordered my KA3005P yesterday looking forward to do some mods.
Do you think the Fan type "ARCTIC F8 TC" could do the job at once?
Hi Norbert, I used an ARCTIC F8, so I'm pretty certain that the F8 TC would also work as well! All the best with your mod and thanks for the praise :-) Joe
Hi Norbert, saw this comment and decided to check whether the F8 TC works. And it works great, at idle and low load it's spinning at 500rpm. I've glued the thermistor to the heatsink and above 32°C it will start spinning faster. It's super quiet now, thanks for the suggestion
@@encryped Yes, have the F8 TC inside since 1 year, it works raelly great.
I like the LED light MOD
Hi, really nice mod you have there and I'm willing to try it on my PSU and made a PCB ready for the programming part. Now here is where I'm stuck. I only ever used arduino and the IDE software (.ino files). But your software is a .C file and a make file. Now, the question is how you programm the MCU using this type of files?. Since I am an absolute beginner when it comes to programming MCU's any help is much appreciate . Ive set an arduino uno as ISP programmer and managed to load a simple blinking led on the ATTiny13A chip just to verify that the chip is working. I've used the arduino IDE software.
Hi Ovi, I haven't used Arduino at all so far -- so with the Ardunio IDE I think I cannot help you. However, you don't need to do any Arduino work and can simply directly flash the firmware image ("main.bin" in the binary/) tree on the ATtiny13. You don't have to bother at all with compiling anything then! HTH, all the best, Joe
Nice hobbyist project, and don’t get me wrong, but it’s such a total overkill. As has been said here before, get a 50 degrees C thermostat switch (normally open) for about $2 at Amazon or wherever, screw it onto the heat sink and solder it into one of the wires to the fan.
You could just have disabled the buzzer in the power supply, no need for removing it.
alfa-psi Yes, remember, only beep when press OCP