I just did this last night on an EDS 1275 replica with Brazilian Mahogany. I was dreading having to fill this body due to the large size. LOL. It went exactly like the video....exactly. This was such little effort with such a great result. Thank you. I wish I could post pics.
I do similar with wood filler but this is probably a bit cheaper in material costs. I do like to put a wash coat of shellac on first though so the color doesn't soak too much into the rest of the wood.
awesome videos my friend , youre my number 1 source for knowledge on guitar finish techniques. Please answer 1 question for me. Can I use your grain filler technique on prepped bare wood , then do a dye burst on top of it , then finish with Tru oil? thank you and keep up the awesome work !
DON'T use pre-mixed joint compound ... get the dry powder that you must mix with water ... it doesn't shrink upon drying and requires fewer coats to get a perfectly level surface.
What would you recommend using if you wanted to apply a primer above this grain filler? I mean, would filling the grain before applying the primer decrease the chances of wood grain seeping through to the finish?
So was that water you mixed in and what formula? I have a tele with an Ash burl top I'm working on. What should I fill the top grain with to prevent the Ash burl figuring from being effected?
What is the next step after the danish oil? Or is that the last step? Do you stain and seal? Or is the danish oil used as a stain and the. Sealed? I’m brand new to this so any help would be appreciated
makes sense to fill wood grain like that, so much easier I am sure than traditional fillers used for this application. What would you do or should I say how would you go about filling a flame maple cap grain?
I absolutely love your content, thanks for posting so many helpful videos. Unfortunately I must have made an absolute arse of myself, I don't think I put enough water in the mixture, and I am having a heck of time removing all of the compound from the guitar. Very uneven as a result. I think its best if I start over. Do you have a recommendation, to remove all of the compound easily?
that joint filler is like the spekel paste (usually white) which you can spread over a styrene surfboard blank and let dry and harden to form a protective hardened covering skin over the foam. before you fibreglass epoxy resin over it on a surfboard build. if however you use a high density polyurethane foam then you can use normal resin you don't require the spekel joint paste
Great presentation! My question regarding grain filling is this. When filling some of the softer woods like poplar or paulownia, how many applications of grain filler is needed for the grain to stop popping up? My retirement hobby is painting guitars, and making them available to budding guitar players, so they can have a really bad ass looking guitar at little or no profit to me. In my ignorance, I bought a number of soft wood bodies, and I have now done two bodies with catostrophic results due to the grain lifting, and I don't want to keep repeating the same results. This caught me by surprise, as up until buying the poplar bodies, I had bought some used Squiers, which painted up just fine, since they already had a completed finish which just required the bulk of the finish to be sanded off. Help me Obi Wan, you're my only hope!
Grain filler should always be applied ACROSS the grain in order to completely fill the pores. Applying WITH the grain results in "scalloped" pores, which will require more coats of filler than necessary.
Is there any benefit (or harm) in sanding past 220 after you have applied the grain filler? I'm thinking about 500 or 1000 grit to achieve results as smooth as possible.
Hi man. Great videos. Does using grain fuller effect tone? Do you sand until you see the wood again and no colour? What is the best finish and grain filler for best tone on electric solid bodies? How do i remove poly grain filler to tr finish?
The pickups in my solid-body guitars are 100% responsible for the tone. The finish has little impact. With acoustics, it's a different matter. However, it's not about the type of filler/finish, it's about how much you put on.
Great video's. I watched this one in particular because I'm having a problem dealing with patchy areas of end grain around the edges of solid body mahogany. I have tried grain filler (crystalac) and worked it in well, dried and light sanded smooth with 400, then stain and still patches where the stain absorbed in different shades. What am I doing wrong ?
Great idea and video. Would I be able to do this over a dried primer that really did not fill the grain pits and wood pores? I plan to spray paint the finish but I need the primed body to be as smooth as possible.
English is not my native language and i didn't get what you said about the filler, is it "wallboard compound"? And what are you using to add the black color? Its water based acrylic paint? Thanks for all the tutorials ou are doing an awesome work and I love learning from it :)
Hey Chris thanks for all of your amazing videos!! Could this process be done after I've primed the guitar or do I need to sand the primer off and start over?
If I use this sealer method before applying a white water-based dye, can you offer an opinion as to what you think the result might be? Unfortunately, I don't have any unspoken-for swamp ash with which to experiment before hand.
I love the video & want to try this method on a mahogany guitar I'm finishing . Question : if I'm going to stain the body , would I apply the joint compound mix before or after the stain ? I'm thinking "before" but I don't want to mess it up . Any advise would be most appreciated !
do you you need to apply lacquer after the danish oil? or is the danish oil protective enough? i want to give the guitar a satin look rather than glossy.
I found this very interesting, thank you. Can you please explain the difference between grain filling and sanding sealer? Do you need to do both on some guitars?
I prefer to apply the dye first and seal it in with 3 coats of sanding sealer. Then I fill the grain. If you use a tinted grain filler like I did in this video, it will tint to wood if you put it down first. That will affect the color of the dye you use.
If I wanted to have a metallic color for the pore filler, what would you do? I'm thinking of staining the mahogany body black and then sanding it to pop up the grain. And then fill it with something silver, or copper. Not sure what type of tint to use (powdered aluminum?). I want a clear finish, probably water based satin acrylic
I'm going to attempt this on a mahogany diy kit I just picked up. My question for you is it's going to be primed and painted a solid color. Do I need to add any paint to the compound?
I really want to use this method on my bass body, but I want to go with a dark red stain... Should I stain before or after appying this stuff? I'm kind of thinking I might want to do a first coat of stain before filling, then fill, then finish my staining. Or should I fill, then stain, then oil? Or stain then fill then oil? I really want that contrasting black in my grain; that sounds like exactly the look I am going for... Thanks!
OK, I would never had guessed sheetrock mud works as wood filler? Will spray paint work afterwards? will it stick and look right? Commenting before the end of the video
So I asked you how to do the hand rub oil paint on a ash wood body and you said to try a darker blue then come back with a lighter blue. My question now is once I got it sanded down do I need to do this before I do the oil paint or just do the dark blue with some lighter blue to bring the grain out why using japan dry then do the finish that you di in the forth video? Thanks
Let me see if I can clarify. After sanding the wood smooth (220 grit or higher), rub the dark blue oil paint into the wood, especially the grain. To remove the dark blue from the surface while leaving it in the grain, wipe off the surface with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. This will remove the dark blue oil paint from the surface while leaving it in the grain. Next, wipe the surface with a cloth dampened with Japan dryer to speed up the drying process. Be careful not to rub too hard or you'll remove too much of the dark blue oil paint. Let the dark blue oil paint dry for about a week and then continue by wiping on the lighter blue oil paint. You can vary the transparency of the lighter blue oil paint by adding mineral spirits and/or Japan dryer. Thinning the light blue oil paint will allow the dark able to show through. Let the light blue oil paint dry for a couple of weeks before applying the protective clear topcoats.
Chris - would you still use this approach or are you only using the Solarez grain filler now? Can you add color to the Solarez to get the same grain accent?
It all depends on the outcome I'm after, the time I have to complete a guitar, the type of wood, and how bright the sun is. For hand rubbed oil finishes, I like to wet sand in the oil to fill the grain. Otherwise, I like to use Z-Poxy Finishing Resin to fill the grain after applying dye or stain and sealing it in. If I'm in a hurry and the sun is bright, I'll use Solarez ICBINL to fill the grain. Tint Solarez ICBINL is dicey since the tint can mess with the UV cure.
Do you have any thoughts on drywall compund that mixes with water? It's by far my favorite to work with, for drywall purposes. In my experience (using it as drywall compound), it dries faster (you can get 20, 45, 60-minute dry products), and it seems do shrink a bit less. Have you tried it, or can you provide any insight? Also, i'm about to attempt this process, so I'm wondering if you have any opinion on using a wood stain. Do you think it would be best to apply it before the pore filling, or after? I, too, am plannng to use a black color with fabric dye (as I've seen others do.) My concerns are that the black might actually dye the wood, outside of the pores. (Perhaps I should consider applying a light coat of lacquer after applying stain, yet before I fill the pores.) Anyway, any opinions or advice on any of these topics would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
I apply grain filler first and sand off the excess before I stain. My drywall compound is water-based and using water-based acrylic craft paint mixed into it will highlight the grain and pores after you sand off the excess. Sanding off the excess will remove the colored filler from the surface while leaving it in the grain and pores. The pigment used in water-based craft paint isn't ground fine enough to stain the wood. Instead, it dries on the surface and in the grain/pores.
@@HighlineGuitars Best video I found for my needs, late to the party. Quick question, the fact that you are already mixing the compound with water, that would be the equivalent of mixing your own compound?
When using colors other than black, I use mostly paint with joint compound added to make it thicker. It works very well, especially on open grained woods like Ash.
Absolutely amazing video, Highline Guitars! So, I have a question. If I sand down my RG8 to look like this imgur.com/oTJNabq could I use this same pore-filling process to get the grain in it to look like yours? This is a full mahogany body guitar. After the pore-filling process, what brand of stain should I use to get a dark mocha/chocolate kind of color? And what finish do I use if I want it to be satin and not too glossy? And what exactly is Tru-Oil and why do people finish guitars with it? Thanks in advance for any answers you may be able to give me!
If you don't want to feel the grain and pores, you'll need to fill them. For a stain, I would make my own with artist oils. Burnt umber, raw sienna, etc. For a satin finish, I'd use satin wipe on poly. Tru Oil is a linseed oil based gunstock finish which produces a glossy finish.
So am I correct to assume that you could substitute Gloss Wipe on Poly for Satin if you wanted more gloss? Also, suppose you do one or more coats of wipe on poly and then decide you want to Nitrocellulose laquer it- can you do that on top of the wipe on poly?
drywall mud ???!!! ya gotta be kidding . c'mon man theres a lotta great real grain fillers out there ...then black paint !!! AY CARUMBA !!! but in the end with the danish oil you come up with a great effect with a great lookin finish and thats what its all about . well done .
I was thinking of creating a burst color effect on my kit guitar after doing this process using some tie dye stains. If I apply the oil after doing the grain filler, is that going to create problems for me when I try to apply the dyes later?
I tried this method of filling the grain & went over it 3 times but I guess I didn't get it completely filled . I'm saying this because now I'm applying my polyurethane clear & it's leaving me with "pock" marks all over . I've sanded back & reapplied the poly twice now in an effort to get rid of the pock marks with little success so far . Any advice as what to do ? Really don't want to start over . lol thanks
Each application of grain filler should be sanded back before applying the next coat. Otherwise, all you are doing is building up the high and low spots at the same time without really filling any grain. Sanding between coats reduces the high areas until the low spots catch up. At this point, you'll need to sand your poly down between each coat to let the low spots fill up. Eventually, it will level, but it may take a while.
what was type of wood ? your method works on this but I'd hazard to say you shouldn't recommend using this method on too many types of wood . too much sanding involved for my liking , aren't there some types of stain that'll at least give a partial effect of what you achieve ?
I've never oil finished a grain filled piece of wood(I've always used oil finish on my projects, but I've never built a guitar, only small things that didn't required grain filling). Would this method work with something as porous as ash? Would the black still fit or would it be a punch in the eye? Also, does the oil penetrate into the filler or does it just stay on the surface? sorry for the number of questions, but I'm curious since I'd like to build my first guitar in the near future
This method works very well with Ash, but it takes at least 3 applications to fill the grin and pores. The oil does not penetrate the filler, it dries on top of it.
I believe that because the grain itself has a relitively small surface, the oil will still soak nicely into the wood and that part that is actually the grain will still look shinny without any problem.
Hi, what's your opinion about minwax oil? Very expensive and hard to find in Italy, I'd like to find alternative product. Nice tutorial. Cannot find an italian equivalent for danish oil. Any help please? Is it tung oil? Lemon oil or similar?
I didn't fill the grain on my diy guitar..... it turn out to be bad because the pores is not absorbing the dye that I've applied....... After the dye has dried..... i can see the pores in wood colour while the rest is black.......
This is the best vid I have seen. Wonderful. I love the table as well. Thanks
Thanks very much. Easy way with no extra specific products and with a very satisfying result!!! Way to go Highline Guitars!!!!
Love this! I always wanted to know how to mix up some grain filler from readily available products. This is great! Thank you!
Instablaster
Oh that is so excellent. Thank you so much for this, Ive been having so much trouble
Nice job! Really brings out the woodgrain.
Love it so far ... My wife has these scrapers from Pampered chef as well - indeed great little tools - watching now :)
Like the technique. Be looking forward to the next tip.
This is the opposite order of operations that I’ve been taught. i like it!
Thank you! I going to try the same thing on my mahogany flying V build.
Top video!! And lovely finish! Thank for sharing.
Beautiful finish. Thanks
You can also buy spatula/squeegee/spreader things like that at Home Depot under the Bondo brand.
really great video. Really clear and good advice, thank you, this is really useful for my project :)
Brilliant--thanks for the wonderful instruction!
turned out awesome!!
Excellent tutorial - thanks!
I just did this last night on an EDS 1275 replica with Brazilian Mahogany. I was dreading having to fill this body due to the large size. LOL. It went exactly like the video....exactly. This was such little effort with such a great result. Thank you. I wish I could post pics.
Email them to cwmonck@highlineguitars.com and I'll post them on my facebook page at facebook.com/highlineguitars
I will. Thank you.
That’s a gorgeous guitar body
YOU.ARE. GREAT. !! Thank you for all these onexpensive and totally effective tips.
I do similar with wood filler but this is probably a bit cheaper in material costs. I do like to put a wash coat of shellac on first though so the color doesn't soak too much into the rest of the wood.
Wow, really nice. Have to admit I wasn't sure where you were going with the black paint
That's what I figured . LOL I did sand between coats of filler but I guess I didn't get it filled enough . Oh well . Thanks so much. You're great !
I was using a minwax stain, and its wasnt quite making it, almost, but not quite. Im going to use your technique on one Im starting now, thanks again
awesome videos my friend , youre my number 1 source for knowledge on guitar finish techniques. Please answer 1 question for me. Can I use your grain filler technique on prepped bare wood , then do a dye burst on top of it , then finish with Tru oil? thank you and keep up the awesome work !
Excellent tips! Thanks
Te sigo desde argentina, sos un excelente profesor!!! I follow you from Argentina, you are an excellent teacher!
That vac table is ingenious..
great video i will use this system
Wow very cool!
You've got a crop circle on the back of the guitar!
DON'T use pre-mixed joint compound ... get the dry powder that you must mix with water ... it doesn't shrink upon drying and requires fewer coats to get a perfectly level surface.
Gret tip! Thanks!!
What would you recommend using if you wanted to apply a primer above this grain filler? I mean, would filling the grain before applying the primer decrease the chances of wood grain seeping through to the finish?
Can you apply a finish like Tru Oil on top of this?
sweet as thanks for this video
Could this mixture be used to pop the grain on a flame maple top before I stain with a dark oak/chocolatey stain?
thank you
Can you use different color acrylic paints to achieve different results for grain popping?
Great video. Would a dye or pigment work as well as the black paint in the mix?
Thx for the video info.I'm going to do a sunburst finish amber & Brown.Can I use a light color filler? Do I seal the wood b4 or after the filler?
Use a pre stain wood conditioner, it makes the game a whole lot easier.
If I’m staining my guitar body would I want to stain it first then seal it?
So was that water you mixed in and what formula? I have a tele with an Ash burl top I'm working on. What should I fill the top grain with to prevent the Ash burl figuring from being effected?
thanks
Thanks for this explanation. One question, but Danish oil can be used for the handle. Thank you
What is the next step after the danish oil? Or is that the last step? Do you stain and seal? Or is the danish oil used as a stain and the. Sealed? I’m brand new to this so any help would be appreciated
Nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
makes sense to fill wood grain like that, so much easier I am sure than traditional fillers used for this application. What would you do or should I say how would you go about filling a flame maple cap grain?
Would it work with spackle instead of joint compound?
What do you have the guitar resting on? Hockey pucks or something more specialized? Thanks for the video-I’m going to give this method a try.
Lovely body shape
Great video. I'm going to try it this week. Did you use any sealer before filling?
I absolutely love your content, thanks for posting so many helpful videos.
Unfortunately I must have made an absolute arse of myself, I don't think I put enough water in the mixture, and I am having a heck of time removing all of the compound from the guitar. Very uneven as a result. I think its best if I start over.
Do you have a recommendation, to remove all of the compound easily?
Grab the sandpaper and sand it off.
that joint filler is like the spekel paste (usually white) which you can spread over a styrene surfboard blank and let dry and harden to form a protective hardened covering skin over the foam. before you fibreglass epoxy resin over it on a surfboard build. if however you use a high density polyurethane foam then you can use normal resin you don't require the spekel joint paste
Great presentation! My question regarding grain filling is this. When filling some of the softer woods like poplar or paulownia, how many applications of grain filler is needed for the grain to stop popping up? My retirement hobby is painting guitars, and making them available to budding guitar players, so they can have a really bad ass looking guitar at little or no profit to me. In my ignorance, I bought a number of soft wood bodies, and I have now done two bodies with catostrophic results due to the grain lifting, and I don't want to keep repeating the same results. This caught me by surprise, as up until buying the poplar bodies, I had bought some used Squiers, which painted up just fine, since they already had a completed finish which just required the bulk of the finish to be sanded off. Help me Obi Wan, you're my only hope!
Try this approach instead: ruclips.net/video/405f5bAFVx0/видео.html
Grain filler should always be applied ACROSS the grain in order to completely fill the pores. Applying WITH the grain results in "scalloped" pores, which will require more coats of filler than necessary.
I've done it both ways and it makes no difference.
Is there any benefit (or harm) in sanding past 220 after you have applied the grain filler? I'm thinking about 500 or 1000 grit to achieve results as smooth as possible.
Not really. You can, but sanding finer than 220 can lead to adhesion problems with your top coats.
There is usually more shrinkage if the water is cold. ✌🏻🇺🇸
Hi man. Great videos. Does using grain fuller effect tone? Do you sand until you see the wood again and no colour? What is the best finish and grain filler for best tone on electric solid bodies? How do i remove poly grain filler to tr finish?
The pickups in my solid-body guitars are 100% responsible for the tone. The finish has little impact. With acoustics, it's a different matter. However, it's not about the type of filler/finish, it's about how much you put on.
Great video's. I watched this one in particular because I'm having a problem dealing with patchy areas of end grain around the edges of solid body mahogany. I have tried grain filler (crystalac) and worked it in well, dried and light sanded smooth with 400, then stain and still patches where the stain absorbed in different shades. What am I doing wrong ?
Grain filler fills the grain. Sanding sealer promotes even stain absorption.
Great idea and video. Would I be able to do this over a dried primer that really did not fill the grain pits and wood pores? I plan to spray paint the finish but I need the primed body to be as smooth as possible.
Yes, you can.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank You!
English is not my native language and i didn't get what you said about the filler, is it "wallboard compound"? And what are you using to add the black color? Its water based acrylic paint?
Thanks for all the tutorials ou are doing an awesome work and I love learning from it :)
Yes, it is also known as wallboard compound. And the black is just water-based acrylic paint.
Hey Chris thanks for all of your amazing videos!! Could this process be done after I've primed the guitar or do I need to sand the primer off and start over?
You don't need to start over. However, I would recommend a different type of grain filler like Crystalac's or Aquacoat.
Thank you. Much appreciated!
If I use this sealer method before applying a white water-based dye, can you offer an opinion as to what you think the result might be? Unfortunately, I don't have any unspoken-for swamp ash with which to experiment before hand.
I don't know. I've never heard of a white water-based dye.
I love the video & want to try this method on a mahogany guitar I'm finishing . Question : if I'm going to stain the body , would I apply the joint compound mix before or after the stain ? I'm thinking "before" but I don't want to mess it up . Any advise would be most appreciated !
Before. If you stain first then apply this type of filler, it'll cover up the stain.
Thanks so much for your help ! Keep producing these type videos ?! They are informative & interesting ! Great job!!
Can i apply Danish oil over white nitro ?
do you you need to apply lacquer after the danish oil? or is the danish oil protective enough? i want to give the guitar a satin look rather than glossy.
I would apply a satin finish wipe on poly after the danish oil if you want that kind of sheen and more protection.
Did you apply a seal coat before grain filling? If so which one do you recommend?
fillers FILL and sealers SEAL. Don't waste good product, fill then seal!
@@teleshredder Seal before stain?
WHy do you recommend this method over using traditional sanding sealer?
Sanding sealer isn't formulated thick enough to fill the grain.
Wow never even crossed my mind to use this stuff, Def a lot cheaper then a small 4 once fill from stew mac.
I found this very interesting, thank you. Can you please explain the difference between grain filling and sanding sealer? Do you need to do both on some guitars?
Grain filler is what the name suggests. Sanding sealer is thinner in viscosity and is used to help dye or stain absorb uniformly.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you for your clear explanation.
I want to do a blue dyed back/sides, with black grain. should I grain fill before dying or after? The dyes are alcohol based
I prefer to apply the dye first and seal it in with 3 coats of sanding sealer. Then I fill the grain. If you use a tinted grain filler like I did in this video, it will tint to wood if you put it down first. That will affect the color of the dye you use.
Use solarez over this?
If I wanted to have a metallic color for the pore filler, what would you do? I'm thinking of staining the mahogany body black and then sanding it to pop up the grain. And then fill it with something silver, or copper. Not sure what type of tint to use (powdered aluminum?). I want a clear finish, probably water based satin acrylic
All I can suggest is to test on scrap. I would suggest trying Crystalac's Liquid Mica.
I'm going to attempt this on a mahogany diy kit I just picked up. My question for you is it's going to be primed and painted a solid color. Do I need to add any paint to the compound?
No. The color of the filler doesn't matter if you intend to prime and paint a solid color.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you sir.
I really want to use this method on my bass body, but I want to go with a dark red stain... Should I stain before or after appying this stuff? I'm kind of thinking I might want to do a first coat of stain before filling, then fill, then finish my staining.
Or should I fill, then stain, then oil? Or stain then fill then oil? I really want that contrasting black in my grain; that sounds like exactly the look I am going for...
Thanks!
Fill, stain and oil in that order.
Awesome, thanks! :D
Highline Guitars If I have already sanded bare wood to 600 is it ok to go back and fill the grain at that point?
OK, I would never had guessed sheetrock mud works as wood filler? Will spray paint work afterwards? will it stick and look right? Commenting before the end of the video
Yes and yes.
Did you put a sealer down before you "spackled"?
I put sealer down after I stain it.
Highline Guitars thank you.
So I asked you how to do the hand rub oil paint on a ash wood body and you said to try a darker blue then come back with a lighter blue. My question now is once I got it sanded down do I need to do this before I do the oil paint or just do the dark blue with some lighter blue to bring the grain out why using japan dry then do the finish that you di in the forth video? Thanks
Let me see if I can clarify. After sanding the wood smooth (220 grit or higher), rub the dark blue oil paint into the wood, especially the grain. To remove the dark blue from the surface while leaving it in the grain, wipe off the surface with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. This will remove the dark blue oil paint from the surface while leaving it in the grain. Next, wipe the surface with a cloth dampened with Japan dryer to speed up the drying process. Be careful not to rub too hard or you'll remove too much of the dark blue oil paint. Let the dark blue oil paint dry for about a week and then continue by wiping on the lighter blue oil paint. You can vary the transparency of the lighter blue oil paint by adding mineral spirits and/or Japan dryer. Thinning the light blue oil paint will allow the dark able to show through. Let the light blue oil paint dry for a couple of weeks before applying the protective clear topcoats.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks that answered all my questions. Thanks for taking the time.
Chris, really enjoy your videos. Have you ever tried AquaCoat grain filler. It's worth a look.
Chris - would you still use this approach or are you only using the Solarez grain filler now? Can you add color to the Solarez to get the same grain accent?
It all depends on the outcome I'm after, the time I have to complete a guitar, the type of wood, and how bright the sun is. For hand rubbed oil finishes, I like to wet sand in the oil to fill the grain. Otherwise, I like to use Z-Poxy Finishing Resin to fill the grain after applying dye or stain and sealing it in. If I'm in a hurry and the sun is bright, I'll use Solarez ICBINL to fill the grain. Tint Solarez ICBINL is dicey since the tint can mess with the UV cure.
Do you have any thoughts on drywall compund that mixes with water? It's by far my favorite to work with, for drywall purposes. In my experience (using it as drywall compound), it dries faster (you can get 20, 45, 60-minute dry products), and it seems do shrink a bit less. Have you tried it, or can you provide any insight?
Also, i'm about to attempt this process, so I'm wondering if you have any opinion on using a wood stain. Do you think it would be best to apply it before the pore filling, or after? I, too, am plannng to use a black color with fabric dye (as I've seen others do.) My concerns are that the black might actually dye the wood, outside of the pores. (Perhaps I should consider applying a light coat of lacquer after applying stain, yet before I fill the pores.)
Anyway, any opinions or advice on any of these topics would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
I apply grain filler first and sand off the excess before I stain. My drywall compound is water-based and using water-based acrylic craft paint mixed into it will highlight the grain and pores after you sand off the excess. Sanding off the excess will remove the colored filler from the surface while leaving it in the grain and pores. The pigment used in water-based craft paint isn't ground fine enough to stain the wood. Instead, it dries on the surface and in the grain/pores.
@@HighlineGuitars Best video I found for my needs, late to the party. Quick question, the fact that you are already mixing the compound with water, that would be the equivalent of mixing your own compound?
So it you paint it instead of oil and stain do you still need to sand down the grain filler?
Yes, if you want a smooth surface.
Have you tried using other colors than black to stain the pores?
If so, how does it compare?
When using colors other than black, I use mostly paint with joint compound added to make it thicker. It works very well, especially on open grained woods like Ash.
Absolutely amazing video, Highline Guitars!
So, I have a question.
If I sand down my RG8 to look like this imgur.com/oTJNabq could I use this same pore-filling process to get the grain in it to look like yours? This is a full mahogany body guitar. After the pore-filling process, what brand of stain should I use to get a dark mocha/chocolate kind of color? And what finish do I use if I want it to be satin and not too glossy? And what exactly is Tru-Oil and why do people finish guitars with it?
Thanks in advance for any answers you may be able to give me!
If you don't want to feel the grain and pores, you'll need to fill them. For a stain, I would make my own with artist oils. Burnt umber, raw sienna, etc. For a satin finish, I'd use satin wipe on poly. Tru Oil is a linseed oil based gunstock finish which produces a glossy finish.
So am I correct to assume that you could substitute Gloss Wipe on Poly for Satin if you wanted more gloss? Also, suppose you do one or more coats of wipe on poly and then decide you want to Nitrocellulose laquer it- can you do that on top of the wipe on poly?
Any reason to do this if you are priming/painting the body?
Yes. You'll have a smoother surface with fewer coats of primer and paint. Too much of either or both will take forever to cure.
drywall mud ???!!! ya gotta be kidding . c'mon man theres a lotta great real grain fillers out there ...then black paint !!! AY CARUMBA !!! but in the end with the danish oil you come up with a great effect with a great lookin finish and thats what its all about . well done .
I was thinking of creating a burst color effect on my kit guitar after doing this process using some tie dye stains. If I apply the oil after doing the grain filler, is that going to create problems for me when I try to apply the dyes later?
Yes, it will. Dye should go down before oil.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks for the tip!
Can the joint compound mix be used as an inlay?
Probably.
how are you thinning the compound? water or alcohol? thanks!
Water.
I've read/seen where ppl recommend a light coat of sealer first to prevent dye in the grain filler from bleeding into the wood. No sealer for you?
No. I'm not using dye. I'm using paint. Not the same thing. Dye uses much finer pigment which will bleed.
I tried this method of filling the grain & went over it 3 times but I guess I didn't get it completely filled . I'm saying this because now I'm applying my polyurethane clear & it's leaving me with "pock" marks all over . I've sanded back & reapplied the poly twice now in an effort to get rid of the pock marks with little success so far . Any advice as what to do ? Really don't want to start over . lol thanks
Each application of grain filler should be sanded back before applying the next coat. Otherwise, all you are doing is building up the high and low spots at the same time without really filling any grain. Sanding between coats reduces the high areas until the low spots catch up. At this point, you'll need to sand your poly down between each coat to let the low spots fill up. Eventually, it will level, but it may take a while.
i wanna paint my guitar a solid color with no grain showing through so can i use this method.. them Prime then paint???
Yep.
Highline Guitars could you ballpark the measurements of the mixture here?
@@dblakeprice I just start adding paint to the compound until I like how it looks. There's no recipe.
@@dblakeprice
If you’re picky , I would recommend Evercoat polyester filler ,
Or something similar .
Less chance of shrinking.
what was type of wood ? your method works on this but I'd hazard to say you shouldn't recommend using this method on too many types of wood . too much sanding involved for my liking , aren't there some types of stain that'll at least give a partial effect of what you achieve ?
Could I use plaster of Paris? Seems ok.
Probably. Test!
I've never oil finished a grain filled piece of wood(I've always used oil finish on my projects, but I've never built a guitar, only small things that didn't required grain filling). Would this method work with something as porous as ash? Would the black still fit or would it be a punch in the eye? Also, does the oil penetrate into the filler or does it just stay on the surface? sorry for the number of questions, but I'm curious since I'd like to build my first guitar in the near future
This method works very well with Ash, but it takes at least 3 applications to fill the grin and pores. The oil does not penetrate the filler, it dries on top of it.
Highline Guitars thank you for the advice, very useful as always
Not a good idea if the oil dries on top of the filler . Then you can just as well use any type of dye or paint .
I believe that because the grain itself has a relitively small surface, the oil will still soak nicely into the wood and that part that is actually the grain will still look shinny without any problem.
Hi, what's your opinion about minwax oil? Very expensive and hard to find in Italy, I'd like to find alternative product. Nice tutorial. Cannot find an italian equivalent for danish oil. Any help please? Is it tung oil? Lemon oil or similar?
Pine oil?
Make your own. Equal parts of boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits (paint thinner), and oil-based polyurethane.
Thank you. :)
Eurail to Denmark for that oil!
Two-teenty grid (sand paper) is 220 or 2200?
220
No shrinkage issues using joint compound?
Yes, there is some shrinkage to consider.
I didn't fill the grain on my diy guitar..... it turn out to be bad because the pores is not absorbing the dye that I've applied....... After the dye has dried..... i can see the pores in wood colour while the rest is black.......
Would this work for spalted,maple
Yes.