I'm going to attempt my first builds in my new home later this year (vanities, wardrobes and possibly TV wall joinery, fireplace surround, custom rangehood) because of your channel and perhaps a couple of other ones. But your series on drawers and cabinets has been invaluable, along with handy videos like first power and hand tools to get etc. With patience and proper planning I am confident I can do this. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and the METRIC numbers lol!. I really appreciate your generosity.
There are several comments here asking what the differences are that make these slides better and do they cost less than other popular brands. Here are a few thoughts from my personal experience. First, regarding quality. The Salice F70 slide has a significantly higher load rating than any other similar slide out there (Remember those wide deep drawers your clients request). Secondly, this slide has a lifetime warranty and exceeds all industry testing requirements. If you are a professional cabinet maker, I would think that these 2 points could easily become part of your sales presentation to the homeowner. Price is difficult to discuss here since pricing may vary from one area of the country to another. Your supply source should be able to answer your pricing questions so you can make a comparison. You must have noticed that I am a real fan!
Very nice drawer construction method. If I were to make drawers using this method, the only thing I'd change would be to pre-finish all the drawer parts before assembly. I mean, if you're not using glue, why not apply the finish while everything is nice and flat?
Just wanted to say thank you for always giving more then on way to accomplish something. Not very many have the skills or the ability to teach but even fewer can show you multiple ways to get the end results your looking for. Please keep the amazing content coming for us loving to learn new techniques and skills.
This was a great video again bents and thank u for telling us these things and your a great man and very help ful an I’ll always miss the show and can’t stop sir!!
I've avoided under-mount drawer slides as up until recently, they've had serious weight restrictions when compared to side mount slides. Salice's F70 slides now have weight capacities in the ranges I prefer my slides in. Nice demo video.
These are great. I always love the look of undermount drawers. I haven’t used them yet though. I always thought they were difficult to install. But this makes it look so much easier than the other method. I haven’t checked pricing yet. But these look great.
Awesome videos Jason! Well explained and detailed close-ups of your work. I'm getting ready to add a sliding shelf for pots and pans stored under the stove top. Just saw this video after reviewing the Blum video. For your kitchen island, did you end up with Salice undermounts versus Blum undermounts? If so, why did you choose Salice over Blum?
That's what I was wondering too. Video title says INCREDIBLE alternative, but I have no idea what makes them more or less of an INCREDIBLE alternative.
I made 15.25inch deep cabinets. Am I able to get under mount slides longer than 12inch or slides that don’t need the hole in the back? Can you help me ? Thanks.
good video. Please reference the screw you used (source). Please think about a video using the LR 32 system for undermount slides. I.E. spacing( especially at the bottom, which distance to use...16 up and out, 32 up and out. Very confusing. thanks.
I don't know where you are located. Search for Salice F70 slide. I found them at Woodworker's Hardware - no affiliation. Note they also make a Futura line.
Where and how can a DIYer find these? Their website speaks to professionals and makes it very difficult to even identify what I want - slides and hinges. Any insights will be very much appreciated!
I'm new to cabinets, so I don't know all the tolerances. You indicated you were using "standard 5/8" cabinet screws" to attach the slides to the bottom of the drawer. Is the drawer mount thick enough to take up the extra 3.9mm (.153"/~5/32"). I don't expect you would have any of the screw protruding from the base. Maybe someone following this that's a cabinet person can answer.
There is versions of the F70 that is designed for face frame cabinets and another version designed for frameless cabinets. The face frame type is longer so it can be attached to a rear socket at the back of the cabinet. The frameless type is designed to be attached directly to the cabinet side. www.salice.com/media/Catalog/runners-and-drawers/f70/Salice_F70_usa.pdf
I take back my comment about the salice technical guides and how you installed your brackets. Just a heads up to everyone that salice has many many versions of the products and installation guides. Just make sure you buy the correct product and install them to the correct technical guide.
Does anyone happen to know the offsets for inset drawers? Or know where to find the Salice instructions for inset drawers? Or the Blum offsets for that matter, but I would like to use Salice 😅
the offset for euro style inset is drawer face thickness + 37 mm. if you are doing inset in face frame cabs just do your standard 37 mm from face of box. you should be boring system holes before face frames go on anyway.
When I look up the Salice technical guide it clearly shows a cut-out at the underside of the drawer box at the front, immediately behind what would be the added on drawer face, so effectively the bracket can be screwed into the added-on drawer front. The guide never shows the bracket mounted to the inside of the drawer box and screw fastened to the drawer box it. Did it all work out for you when you added on your drawer face?
I wonder if maybe you are reading the diagram incorrectly. I've used F70 slides for years, in both push to open and soft close configurations. I've never seen anything in their documentation describing a cutout at the front of the drawer. In fact, since this is where the latching mechanism attaches, if you were to do a cutout in the front, you would have nowhere for the latch to mount to.
Boulter Plywood in Medford, MA. Family owned and operated and they ship worldwide. Jason also mentioned in another comment that Aetna in the Midwest is another good option.
I work for a wholesale distributor that sells hardware along with anything else cabinet shops buy. Blum is American made German engineered. Most of the knock off brands, we carry a few of them as well, are made in China. They're good and donthw same job but for me the savings aren't worth it. If you want to save some money find a wholesaler that has better prices verse buying low volumes at a retailer.
Agreed. I am working on a set of cabinets with knock off Chinese undermines, and they feel exactly like knock offs. The adjusted wheels are 1" in diameter requiring a 1" space under the drawer bottom (instead on 1/2"), and the adjustments don't work very well. I wish I'd bought Blums.
I don't know, it kind of blew me away with technical instructions. If I were as good as you, I could understand, I guess. But I'm not so I flounder just as I did when I clicked on this video.
I’m imperial all the way but it’s a bit comical people get their panties in such a twist over what system is used. By the way, the US uses several measurements within the metric system.
I get it, but I find it's actually easier to build cabinets using metric. I can do fractions just fine, but for cabinet hardware (shelf pins, hinge plates, drawer slides, etc, etc) metric is easier and a little more precise.
@@5280Woodworking I know right? It's just a different, albeit more accurate, way to measure something. And when these manufacturers give documentation in metric it sure is easier to use that instead of spending time converting mm to inches. It's unfortunate how close minded some folks are.
Metric System 32 standards are pretty ubiquitous in cabinet making. They use a 32mm spacing pattern for the screw holes on cabinet hardware. Kind of hard to avoid metric if you're a cabinet maker.
I'm going to attempt my first builds in my new home later this year (vanities, wardrobes and possibly TV wall joinery, fireplace surround, custom rangehood) because of your channel and perhaps a couple of other ones. But your series on drawers and cabinets has been invaluable, along with handy videos like first power and hand tools to get etc. With patience and proper planning I am confident I can do this. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and the METRIC numbers lol!. I really appreciate your generosity.
Glad you find it helpful
There are several comments here asking what the differences are that make these slides better and do they cost less than other popular brands. Here are a few thoughts from my personal experience.
First, regarding quality. The Salice F70 slide has a significantly higher load rating than any other similar slide out there (Remember those wide deep drawers your clients request). Secondly, this slide has a lifetime warranty and exceeds all industry testing requirements. If you are a professional cabinet maker, I would think that these 2 points could easily become part of your sales presentation to the homeowner.
Price is difficult to discuss here since pricing may vary from one area of the country to another. Your supply source should be able to answer your pricing questions so you can make a comparison.
You must have noticed that I am a real fan!
I think the second half of your comment was accidentally deleted
Thanks Mike. Just hit the "Read More" button to see the entire comment.@@mikeb1220
@@dennisbean1710 website must have been glitching on me earlier, there wasn’t a read more button before haha
Thank you!
thx for the proper spelling, i stopped watching after discovering that he included neither the spelling or a link to the product at all
Very nice drawer construction method. If I were to make drawers using this method, the only thing I'd change would be to pre-finish all the drawer parts before assembly. I mean, if you're not using glue, why not apply the finish while everything is nice and flat?
Just wanted to say thank you for always giving more then on way to accomplish something. Not very many have the skills or the ability to teach but even fewer can show you multiple ways to get the end results your looking for. Please keep the amazing content coming for us loving to learn new techniques and skills.
This was a great video again bents and thank u for telling us these things and your a great man and very help ful an I’ll always miss the show and can’t stop sir!!
I've avoided under-mount drawer slides as up until recently, they've had serious weight restrictions when compared to side mount slides. Salice's F70 slides now have weight capacities in the ranges I prefer my slides in. Nice demo video.
How good it to hear an American speak metric !
from an Englishman in France
Nice video Brent, you do a nice job explaining things and using good close up camera work. I was just thinking about doing under mount slides. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
These are great. I always love the look of undermount drawers. I haven’t used them yet though. I always thought they were difficult to install. But this makes it look so much easier than the other method. I haven’t checked pricing yet. But these look great.
www.salice.com/media/Catalog/runners-and-drawers/f70/Salice_F70_usa.pdf
They are much easier than most people think. You should give it a shot!
Incredible timing! Just about to order a kitchen load of undermount slides! Thanks, Jason.
Perfect!
I made a drawer box like this today. Wow. The best. Thank you
Glad you like it!
Why use Salice vs Blum? But it must be INCREDIBLE per the title!! Nice cabinet, technique.
Best teacher
Great information!
Thanks for another great video!
You bet!
Great video. Are you using the same ply on the case as you do the drawer boxes?
I use 18mm (3/4”) for cases.
Salice (Sa-lee-chay), thanks, Jason I never knew how to pronounce that, lol.
Another great video.
All the best, Chuck
You bet
And Blum is “Bloom”. Just call their customer service to get reminded every time you mispronounce the name. Haha
Really? I didn't know that either.
Now I just dare someone's to say Festool is "Fez-Tu-Lei", or something! 🤪
All the best, Chuck
Always direct and to the point. Nice work :)
Great slides.
www.salice.com/media/Catalog/runners-and-drawers/f70/Salice_F70_usa.pdf
Thanks a lot!
I was sold until I read a lot of bad quality reviews on rockler for the Solice and lots of positive for the Blum. Any ideas?
Great job !
Awesome videos Jason! Well explained and detailed close-ups of your work. I'm getting ready to add a sliding shelf for pots and pans stored under the stove top. Just saw this video after reviewing the Blum video. For your kitchen island, did you end up with Salice undermounts versus Blum undermounts? If so, why did you choose Salice over Blum?
Why would I use Salice slides as opposed to Blum? Better? Cheaper?
That's what I was wondering too. Video title says INCREDIBLE alternative, but I have no idea what makes them more or less of an INCREDIBLE alternative.
There is none, just an alternative that isn't a low quality immitation
@@wynbarkema3922 It's almost as if it's a purposeful attempt to expose both how effective yet insincere clickbait titles are.
Salice aren't better and i'm sure Bent would say so himself.
Ridiculous
Does anyone have a link for the screws used to mount the slides in the 5mm holes?
amzn.to/3IpNNQP
Excellent great explanation.
I made 15.25inch deep cabinets. Am I able to get under mount slides longer than 12inch or slides that don’t need the hole in the back? Can you help me ? Thanks.
Blum all day, every day, baby!!!
good video. Please reference the screw you used (source). Please think about a video using the LR 32 system for undermount slides. I.E. spacing( especially at the bottom, which distance to use...16 up and out, 32 up and out. Very confusing. thanks.
Outstanding, so helpful!
Hi,can I use stainless steel buffing compound to strop chisels
Can you add a link for the drawer slides?
www.salice.com/media/Catalog/runners-and-drawers/f70/Salice_F70_eng.pdf
I don't know where you are located. Search for Salice F70 slide. I found them at Woodworker's Hardware - no affiliation. Note they also make a Futura line.
www.salice.com/media/Catalog/runners-and-drawers/f70/Salice_F70_usa.pdf
Great video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Jason-looked like you had some torx pocket screws; been looking for an alternative to the big head Kreg ones. Could you post what you are using? Thx!
He was using a Castle 110 pocket hole machine. Castle’s pocket hole screws have torx heads. They also have Robert’s drive screws.
Thanks much!
Where are you getting your Baltic Birch from? I live around Huntsville AL and I can’t find anyone around here that carries it.
Boulter Plywood in Medford, MA. Family owned and operated and they ship worldwide.
I got mine from Aetna Plywood
Where and how can a DIYer find these? Their website speaks to professionals and makes it very difficult to even identify what I want - slides and hinges. Any insights will be very much appreciated!
@@apswirl take a look at these places
Cabinetparts.com
Woodworkersexpress
Hafele
Richelieu
Grass is another option if they are out of blum slides. The adjustable clips are more expensive for some reason.
How much?
Do you have to insure the drawer box is square with these slides?
It sure would make installing any kind of drawer slide easier if the box is square, no?
Very helpful I do appreciate all the millimeters
Glad to help
Where do you get your 12mm Baltic Birch?
Boulter Plywood
@@mikeb1220Thank you kindly, Mike. Nationwide shipping. Three days to my part of Texas. Excellent!
@@jefffuhr2393 happy to help! They’re great guys, and family owned and operated 👍
Aetna Plywood
Incredible and then what ?
wouldn't screwing the clips into the front and the bottom make the front even stronger?
What online store carries Salice?
Those look very similar to the Wurth undermounts too, which are very well featured and cheap.
Big difference here; The Salice guides are 100% made in Italy, not China.
@@dennisbean1710 i like that
I'm new to cabinets, so I don't know all the tolerances. You indicated you were using "standard 5/8" cabinet screws" to attach the slides to the bottom of the drawer. Is the drawer mount thick enough to take up the extra 3.9mm (.153"/~5/32"). I don't expect you would have any of the screw protruding from the base. Maybe someone following this that's a cabinet person can answer.
yeah he built the entire drawer box out of 12mm plywood, including the bottom panel
What is the EXACT model number of the slides? A link would be nice.
How would any of this interpret with faceframe cabinets?
www.salice.com/media/Catalog/runners-and-drawers/f70/Salice_F70_usa.pdf
There is versions of the F70 that is designed for face frame cabinets and another version designed for frameless cabinets. The face frame type is longer so it can be attached to a rear socket at the back of the cabinet. The frameless type is designed to be attached directly to the cabinet side. www.salice.com/media/Catalog/runners-and-drawers/f70/Salice_F70_usa.pdf
I take back my comment about the salice technical guides and how you installed your brackets. Just a heads up to everyone that salice has many many versions of the products and installation guides. Just make sure you buy the correct product and install them to the correct technical guide.
www.salice.com/media/Catalog/runners-and-drawers/f70/Salice_F70_usa.pdf
Where to buy salice?
Does anyone happen to know the offsets for inset drawers? Or know where to find the Salice instructions for inset drawers? Or the Blum offsets for that matter, but I would like to use Salice 😅
For overlay most drawers is about 3 mm offset. For inset I believe it should be flush
www.salice.com/media/Catalog/runners-and-drawers/f70/Salice_F70_usa.pdf
the offset for euro style inset is drawer face thickness + 37 mm. if you are doing inset in face frame cabs just do your standard 37 mm from face of box. you should be boring system holes before face frames go on anyway.
When I look up the Salice technical guide it clearly shows a cut-out at the underside of the drawer box at the front, immediately behind what would be the added on drawer face, so effectively the bracket can be screwed into the added-on drawer front. The guide never shows the bracket mounted to the inside of the drawer box and screw fastened to the drawer box it.
Did it all work out for you when you added on your drawer face?
I wonder if maybe you are reading the diagram incorrectly. I've used F70 slides for years, in both push to open and soft close configurations. I've never seen anything in their documentation describing a cutout at the front of the drawer. In fact, since this is where the latching mechanism attaches, if you were to do a cutout in the front, you would have nowhere for the latch to mount to.
Are you looking at the European or Canadian catalog/website perhaps?
Here are the full tech details and types.www.salice.com/media/Catalog/runners-and-drawers/f70/Salice_F70_usa.pdf
you are probably looking at the other mounting clips that can be screwed to the bottom edge of the subfront
So why are these better than blumb? No comment on this which is the title of video...
The title says nothing about them being better. It says it’s a great alternative
great timepiece!
Rolex Submariner? I was. Thinking the exact same thing.
@@MikeTatman looks like a green bezel Starbucks
I wish it was a Rolex but it’s a custom Seiko. I have a few different ones. I done own any Rolex yet. Maybe one day.
Hearing an american using metric is such a relief... I've always had trouble converting inches to mm when I watch other videos :p
this is fantastic. thank you! what's the brand / name of the red clamps you're using?
Where are you finding actual 13mm Baltic birch? Most 1/2” is actually under 13mm
I just want to find 12mm Baltic Birch
Boulter Plywood in Medford, MA. Family owned and operated and they ship worldwide. Jason also mentioned in another comment that Aetna in the Midwest is another good option.
Years ago before I started making my own cabinets, I had pocket hole drawers. They fell apart, never again, absolute crap.
I work for a wholesale distributor that sells hardware along with anything else cabinet shops buy.
Blum is American made German engineered. Most of the knock off brands, we carry a few of them as well, are made in China. They're good and donthw same job but for me the savings aren't worth it. If you want to save some money find a wholesaler that has better prices verse buying low volumes at a retailer.
Agreed. I am working on a set of cabinets with knock off Chinese undermines, and they feel exactly like knock offs. The adjusted wheels are 1" in diameter requiring a 1" space under the drawer bottom (instead on 1/2"), and the adjustments don't work very well. I wish I'd bought Blums.
All Salice products are 100% made in Italy.
Would of been better to actually compare to equivalent Blum slide, since title implies comparison.
good job
Thanks
I think your drill bit is a little dull.
i believe the drill was in reverse. Thought the same thing. Done it myself.
I don't know, it kind of blew me away with technical instructions. If I were as good as you, I could understand, I guess. But I'm not so I flounder just as I did when I clicked on this video.
Really enjoy these videos. Drawer porn, I guess. Cheers.
Strange fetish but I get it. Lol
*Are Festools & Matching Rolex Required? Lol* 😂
I'm pretty sure that's a Seiko, there's no crown above the signature on the dial
@@coolbugfacts1234
*Lol*
Yes! You must order both right now if you want to call yourself a real woodworker!
@@pengel200
*I must be doing something Wrong!!! Lol*
I don’t own a Rolex. This is a Seiko. I know I use festool, but watches make Festool look cheaper than Ryobi.
I quit watching. This America and I DON"T do milly meters.
Apparently you don't do spelling or grammar either.
how rude and ignorant.
I just had to turn it off after your usage of the metric system.. sorry but this is still the USA and not Europe even though Festool thinks otherwise.
I’m imperial all the way but it’s a bit comical people get their panties in such a twist over what system is used. By the way, the US uses several measurements within the metric system.
I get it, but I find it's actually easier to build cabinets using metric. I can do fractions just fine, but for cabinet hardware (shelf pins, hinge plates, drawer slides, etc, etc) metric is easier and a little more precise.
@@5280Woodworking I know right? It's just a different, albeit more accurate, way to measure something. And when these manufacturers give documentation in metric it sure is easier to use that instead of spending time converting mm to inches. It's unfortunate how close minded some folks are.
Metric System 32 standards are pretty ubiquitous in cabinet making. They use a 32mm spacing pattern for the screw holes on cabinet hardware. Kind of hard to avoid metric if you're a cabinet maker.
Sorry, wrong. The USA has defined an inch as 25.4mm since the Mendenhall Order of 1893.