Don't Make This COSTLY Mistake!
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Disclaimer: I am only comparing FasTrack to only what type of track I have experience with. I am also not saying that Tubular track is the superior track for O scale train collectors. I am simply stating my experiences with FasTrack and giving my advice to beginner O scale enthusiasts. This is strictly my opinion. Enjoy the video!
#youtubevideo #samsogaugetrains
Embrace tradition, reject modernity
rj has a great fastrack layout but i think he will change when he builds a new one. i have realtrax and fastrack and am thinking of menards when u rebuild. i found realtrax connectors bend out of shape easily, and fastrack im not sure of yet. look at dagryfinn menard layout as what can be done.
Personal opinion, I think Lionel made a big mistake by discontinuing their tubular rail system. I’m kind of a “purist” when it comes to running my O/27 trains, they just belong on tubular track! I’m glad to see Menards “picking up the slack” in the O gauge market. I do hope, eventually, they may offer O/27 tubular track as well as the O gauge they offer now.
Also.... Keep an eye out for K-Line track as well. They made some very high quality traditional tubular track and switches. The Menards is great too, glad it is available.
I think Menards only produces “0” gauge track at this time. I have a “ton” of Lionel 0-27 equipment and would like to be able to add more track without replacing all I already have. Kline made a lot of 0-27 track and switches until they were bought out and shut down by Lionel. I don’t think I could ever make the move to Lionel’s plastic road bed track. Lionel belongs on tubular rail.@@jenniferwhitewolf3784
I have a layout using several hundred feet of FastTrack and I have had absolutely no problems with it on any of the six tracks that I run.
I've never had any problems with Fastrack either. On larger payouts, I had problems with tubular track losing power at the far end and I had to run wires directly to it and then every 6' to 8' apart. That was one thing I liked about the newer track systems and that was connectivity, they're just better. I also like the more realistic rail. I am a 3-rail modeler but I now, after experimenting with function and appearance, use Atlas code 148 rail 2-rail flex track with a code 100 blackened rail down the middle or I hand lay my rails on bass wood ties, spiking down code 148 rails (nickel silver on flat runs and steel rails on inclines [for magnetraction locos]). The flat head of the code 148 rail gives a postwar FM even more grip surface with the wheel and wow!! Does it pull! My 1937 700e as well as my two prewar 763e locos love it as well. Some of the tinplate freight cars will actually operate on the scale rails but some won't as their flanges are too big. Non of the tinplate will go through a scale turnout (switch) but postwar rollingstock does so beautifully. MPC rolling stock runs beautifully on these scale rails but not so well in the turnouts due to the frog setting, I have to modify them a bit. There is something about hand laying your track that I never knew I missed when putting down sectional track.
Same
I started on tubular track then the shorts started to occur so I decided to move to fast track and found it very reliable, the only thing I’ve done is get track clubs to keep the sections together.
I've been in O gauge since 1972 and have used both tubular and FasTrack. Tubular is nice, you can cut it to fit, easy to solder wires to and throw a lockon anywhere you want. But... On my latest layout I decided to go with FasTrack for the first time. I like it just a tad bit more. I like not having to deal with finicky track pins, the integrated roadbed is nice, and smaller switch machines compared to postwar. I'm only running a 4x8 and have no plans to remove the track once it's down. I'm using newer batches of FasTrack and the conductivity is better than when I had tubular. Not a single voltage dropout in any spots. My old leftover tubular goes under the Christmas tree. lol
I have used every type of track systems. They all have one thing in common, you have to make sure you have a smooth tight transition from track to track. Make sure your sections are tightly closed without any gaps. Run your fingers along the sections and make sure it’s smooth in between your sections of track. Please a level on top of your rails and make sure you don’t have any dips or high spots. Doing this will ensure trouble free train operation. My favorite is Atlas O gauge tracks & original postwar tubular track. Thank you for making this video Sam. I really enjoyed it. 😊 Frank
Hi, Sam, good morning. Actually, I enjoy using FasTrack on my layout. When I started building the OM&S it was a readily available track system that went down easily and has served me well to date. Now one of the things I did as I was laying it was to solder jumpers between the different track pieces and then soldered jumper wires to the center and outside rails about every ten track sections or so. The jumper wires are attached to bus wires underneath the layout. This has proven to be pretty rock solid providing good electrical continuity throughout the railroad. I understand that this method is useful and works well because the track is screwed down to the layout table. I have had minimal problems with the remote switches. I did have to replace one because while working on the layout I fell backwards and landed hard on it bending the track pieces (switch blades) and was not ever able to make it work reliably afterwords. A second remote switch seemed to gradually begin to not function reliably with some of my locomotives after a year or so, that I simply credited to hard use. It seemed at least one of the switch blades/points became misaligned and again I chose to replace the switch. I've had no problems with the manual switches that I can think of. Tubular track is good stuff and is what I ran my trains on for many years. With all of that said if I were building a 3-rail railroad today with realism as a primary goal and wanted to go to the trouble of creating the most realistic looking track possible, I would not choose a track system with a built-in roadbed. I believe I would go with Atlas O track and either Atlas O or Ross switches. I enjoyed your video and found your candid discussion about your experiences with FasTrack very interesting. Bill B.
I’m glad you have had success with Fastrack! I wish I had the same. I wish I could of hot wired my track at the time but it simply wasn’t possible at the time. I was pretty much fed up with Fastrack by the time I built my current layout. I still have my Fastrack for emergencies but I see myself using tubular for a long while. I’ve got some unopened automatic tubular 0-72 switches waiting to be used.
Good video and review. I collect and run post-war and MPC. FasTrack is non-magnetic and doesn't work with MagneTraction. It also is less forgiving of miss-alignment. On tubular track, you can make adjustments because you can flex it to make it fit. You can also add ballast and make it look fairly realistic. For those who like FasTrack, that 's fine, but I'd rather have my trains run smoothly on the track that they were designed for.
Excellent advice, Sam. Thank you for sharing what you’ve learned to help further educate those of us new to the hobby. You are helping us to save money and minimize frustrations! We appreciate you!
Of course! I sacrifice my money and time to keep you from making the same mistakes! 🫡
Biggest detractor for FasTrack when I was getting started was price and it only goes down to O-31. My train room is quite small, and to make the track plan I wanted work required O-27 curves throughout.
O-27 tubular was cheaper new old stock, you can cut it to the length you need, and you can DIY your own insulated track to trigger trackside accessories instead of having to buy more pricey bits from Lionel to do the same job.
The old ways are the best ways sometimes.
Lionel “0” gauge “train set” curved track segments were 31” diameter. You could run your 0-27 trains on 0 gauge track, but you couldn’t run your 0 gauge trains on 0-27 track. I think it had to due with train size (0 gauge trains were slightly larger than the 0-27 trains) and possibly flange depth. If you have a chance, set an 0 gauge Lionel next to an 0-27 you’ll definitely see that the 0-27 is quite undersized compared to the 0 gauge.
Lionel also offered O-27 to compete with American Flyer and Marx, as well as offer a "budget" line of trains.
In most cases, most trains that will run on O-31 curves will navigate O-27 just fine, and many O-27 locomotives are identical to their O counterparts aside from their number. Most troubles tend to come from locos or cars being so long that they can't clear the switch housings, though you can always remove those or modify the loco or car.
Until the advent of scale/Legacy, all Lionel trains were undersized, some scale ones still are, but it was to a practical purpose to allow layouts in an ordinary household room, as true to scale curves would mean you'd need an aircraft hangar to house your layout.
I'm pretty happy with my O-27, most of my equipment is semi-scale so it works just fine. 4-8-4's, 2-8-4's, and a Challenger are plenty big enough for my purposes.
Good to know when I start my o gauge layout!
I love tubular track for so many reasons including the fact that its very unrealistic. When ever i see tubular track i smile lol! My only problem is that you cant run it on carpet. Do you have any ideas?
People's success with fastrack varies. Generally, there are 2 rules to it:
1: The connection joints will bend and break. Even if you don't see it, every time you connect and take it apart, you're wearing down the connectors. This helps influence...
2: The electrical connections suck. Part of that is from the above mentioned, and part of it is just the nature of the design
You don't need to hot wire every piece of track, but every 4-6 pieces probably. I do this anyways on my Atlas O layout, just to minimize connectivity issues
Great video pointing out other options
Thank you Steve!
I have had to replace or fix my fast rack a few times, I like it but I don’t think it’s dependable, I’m not sure what other track to go with? Seems like fastrack is about the cheapest option other than tubler track?
Tubular track is the best option price wise and durability wise in my opinion.
Excellent video Sam, you're a natural. Tubular is very dependable and can be restored. The challenge is to make it look good on the layout with extra ties.
I have had the same experience with Fast Track. I am gradually ripping it out and going traditional. Great advice here, everyone should listen.
Thank you for sharing your experience & providing us with examples so we can make up our own minds.
You pointed out an issue I always said “to keep it simple”. The least complicated system is almost always the best choice. Nothing is simpler than the old tubular track design. Both “O” & 027 are good choices. I selected 027 as it is lower cost and a bit lower profile height.
I too made this mistake at first. I had used Fastrack on my first O gauge layout. I used it for my outer 2 mainline loops, while using my O27 tubular on the inner loops. Needless to say I had issues mainly with the sounds vibrating due to the hollow roadbed, but also due to the fact I didn't use any sound deadening material. I later bought a huge lot of original Lionel postwar tubular track and I was so much happier. As a bonus, the lot also came with a large bag of wooden ties to go with the track and it makes the tubular look so much more realistic, yet retaining the classic postwar look that I like. I highly recommend finding some extra ties, you'll be amazed and also add ballast for more realism.
Good suggestions! I’ll have to implement that on my next layout!
I use Fastrack and I am a little frustrated by how much dirt and grime appears on the rails. Other than that it ok. But I find using Tubular track (I have Menards Style) More satisfying because of the pin style and how the design absorbs the noise compared to Fastrack. What I would do is get a Fastrack to tubular adapter and expand from there.
Also the clickity clack is more evident when using tubular! (Depends on the surface of the layout)
@@samsogaugetrains8670 true! The only gripe I have with tubular track is how the pin style prevents you from getting creative with a layout. Unless you manually switch around the pins.
I to came the same conclusion to use tubular track. to me its much easier to work with. Good advice.
Nice layout. I thought about using fast track due to availability but i opted for atlas 3 rail and its been pretty good other than having to clean it fairly often. I do have a fair bit of old lionel tubular though.
Tubular track looses too much power signal but it is cheap (Menards)...HATE Fastrack for the loud noise in which this was a deal breaker for me. I have always owned MTH trains for the value and use Realtrax. Its reliable, no power loss, its sturdy and strong. If you buy pre-owned online save so much money. I never went back. You will realize this yourself. I buy used 0-31 Realtrax curved for $2-3 each...Realtrax switches used $40-$80 very affordable. The biggest cost on trains is the (engines) and (switches). Thanks for posting!
I think you're right. It was easier to use tubular track than fast track. I'm thinking next year to start switching to tubular track. It is easier to put together and does not short out.
When I first started out about 6 years ago. I had old Lionel tubular track. Worked find. I got fast track with a set or two and didn’t like how it was plastic and noisy! Menards was a game changer. Most of my track is from Menards! I even ballast my tubular track and put railroad ties underneath!
I couldn't agree more. I recently started an O Guage layout 24 x 12 and I found the cost of fastrack to be prohibitive and poor performing and LOUD. I also find the look to be toyish. I use the menards track and it is much cheaper quieter and after you add ties and ballast much more realistic. Great video.
I have fastrack and it works flawlessly with cleaning and upkeep, a simple wipe with a microfiber rag or some steel wool does the trick
I somewhat agree with you, I have a decent size layout and after about a year, there would be certain spots that would stop working. I'm debating on switching my track, but I have so much scenery, that it would be costly for new scenery and track. Still doing research on what track is better. I have heard good things about Menards though.
I like the new fast track by Lionel You do not half to worry about the center rail shorting out
There are many options to purchase used or NOS (new old stock) Lionel Tubular Track (Amazon, ebay, auctions, etc...). I also have had many sets that included FasTrack and I have never had any issues with it (even taking it apart and re-installing it many times over).
I agree Sam! I have Fastrak now and it is not as versatile as tubular track. It's easier to hook up operating accessories with tubular track in my opinion. Getting rid of Fastrak after Christmas!
My father got me a ton of FastTrack. It’s a lot of fun having a small layout. But gosh, FastTrack is really expensive!
Hi Sam I just came across your channel and subed.. I cant agree with you more on the Fasr Track issue.Over time it showed its true colors. Every piece switches operating and uncupiling track died.I tried everything but no go.So for me tubular is it. thanks for sharring this and bust a piece for me..
Hi I use menards o96 and straights. i do have several pieces of fastrack. The menards track I've had no problems with.
Great video! I pretty much use MTH RealTrax & Lionel Tubular.
Hi Sam I agree that Fastrak is not as good as other track systems. Tubular track is the most used and most successful track in O gauge. There's one special track for O gauge that I think is the best ever made. I have a layout that's 50' X 35'. I run 60 car trains and can run 5 trains at a time. I use a ready available Super O track. I have Super O curves with radii up to 108". There's well over 1,000 pieces of Super O on my layout. I started my layout in 1986. There's 46 Super O switches that work great. I still have a few Gargraves sections on the layout, but I'm in the process of replacing them with my custom Super O wide radius curves.
People say that the center rail cuts grooves in rollers, but that is NOT true. I agree with your assessment of Fastrak. I also don't think it looks realistic with gray ties and ballast. I have heard from a lot of other O gauge modelers that they really can't run their trains successfully on Fastrak. You can see my Super O layout on youtube. Search "Harry Abramowitz".
I like tube track better and I also buy it used from where ever I see it. My fast track rusted up and that sucks.
I don’t like Fastrack for several reasons. First, it is not very reliable. The center rail pins are easily broken and so far I have not found a source for replacement pins at a reasonable price. Usually get them from non functional old Fastrack pieces. Second when making a layout without a computer design program it is sometimes very difficult to close a loop. With tubular track you get out the hacksaw. Fastrack has a high level of noise. I have been using tubular track laid on carpet pad with “Moondog” rubber ties. I also weather my tubular track and add blast which makes it more realistic looking to my eye. Used tubular track at train shows is dirt cheap.
To make a ballast look for my old tubular track, I cut up old roof shingles. Not perfect, but nothingy is. My O gauge CB&Q Zephyr video shows what it looks like.
I had FasTrack that I used many years ago- mostly for running trains on the floor. When I built a table, I switched to RealTrax, then to Gargraves, and gave all the FasTrack to my son. I still have some FasTrack that I've gotten recently in sets, and a few long sections in case I want to put up something temporary- like around a tree. What I remember about the old FasTrack is it snapped together TIGHTLY- I had a helluva time getting some of it apart, and it wasn't uncommon to hold up several sections by just one piece. The newer stuff seems different- doesn't fit well together and falls apart easily. At least that's my experience...
Whole heartedly agree
Good video and information. Just back into the hobby. And when I did went with traditional tubular track. Recently did get a couple Lion Chief sets that included fast track. While a bit intrigued by it, and even gave consideration of replacing tubular with it, however just was not sure. Your video helps reinforce my decision. 👍
Awesome! Glad my video helped you in your decision making! Also check out all the comments to see what other people say too! Everyone had their own experience. Make the decision that is right for you!
Fasttrack may look prototypical, but tubular is far more durable-especially for portable modular layouts. The look is also easily fixed: add ties, ballast, rust out the side rails, & black out the middle & your track will look nearly as good!
The only thing fast track is good for is, Making a diearama for a display and just for using as a test track to use on your locomotives.
Other then that, fast track starts to rust overtime and it is junk.
Well done - thank you for sharing. I have heard that tubular is best from an older O Gauger who knew his stuff.
I moved to Fastrack after having so many issues with the MTH product, and myself have had no issues with it. However, I have been hearing more and more stories of people have connectivity issues just as mentioned here. But that said, if I didn't already have all my track from the Lionel basket, I would now go with the Menard's track.
I'm deep in the FasTrack hole, and I don't really have any options right now. All I can do is deal with it until I build a tabletop layout.
I wish you luck!
Fast track and EZ track is designed for quick and easy set up and take down. It's literally meant for you to just set on the ground and outside.
Personally I prefer HO EZ track for my floor
I like using Fast Track but I have broken one/two connections on my O72 curves during my years of use. Biggest loss was my leading switch to my siding wearing out which I replaced this year. I have the adapter pieces as the old tubular activation track works better than the fast track version for the operating milk cars. Bigger magnet in the tubular version? My Christmas Layout is 17 feet long by 7 feet wide. I have four pieces of track wired to my 180 watt transformer so I am not experiencing any power loss. Noise is not really that big of an issue as it is set up on carpet. Because the roadbed is not open I have found the screw to my leading wheels on my Berkshire and a screw that fell
Off my searchlight car. This is my fifth year using the track. My postwar Santa Fe F7 does NOT like the Fast Track switches. The Berkshire does not seem to mind the Fast Track. I have been running my Lackawanna E8 since buying it in, I think, 2019. In the end, run what you enjoy as there are pros and cons to each of the track systems. Enjoy hearing people’s views on this topic.
I currently and probably always use tubular on my o gauge layout im running lionel O-31 curves and have never purchased menards track but I really like the 4 menards cars i own
I have tubular track that is from the 1920’s and it is trouble free, how many decades will your plastic roadbed last before it becomes brittle or just falls off the rails. Maybe none of you will be in the hobby for seventy plus years but I doubt fast track will last that long. I’ll stick with my old tubular track or my Gargraves track from the ‘60s.
Tubular track is the way to go
Have your tried gargraves?
I’m sticking to tradition. The tubular track is a fraction of the cost to Fastrack.
Me and my grand pa made a layout out of fast tracks and it has been vary good
I had fastrak on my polar express train set on my layout I use only menards tubular track and Lionel lockons works for me just fin
I don’t remember you saying what you didn’t like about the fast track other than it’s pricey.
I have it and the problems I have had are with the pins breaking especially one a earlier version of fast track.
I have started to buy the track that Menards sells and they have a conversion piece that connects fast track to the tubular.
My only issue I’ve run into is my starter 0-8-0s want to derail on tubular track
I will never use fastrak I always use tubular track made by menards
Fast track is fine for display.
Yes fastrack has conductivity problems - tubular for me
My fastrack works perfectly fine. I don’t find it much louder than other brands(I have it on homasote). With any RR layout it is usually a good idea to run feeder wires to keep power flowing well. I also do like command control switches. Atlas and Gargraves make great track too. I just find tubular to be too unrealistic looking. But whatever allows you to run trains and is easiest for you, that’s your answer. Fastrack is nice also you can get any piece you need as fast as it can be shipped to you or your closest store that sells it.
I guess that is an advantage of FasTrack, being able to have all the lengths and sizes. If one were to do it with tubular track, you'd have to measure and cut it. Whatever works!
My first Fastrack pieces caused some trouble from 2003-05 but the Fastrack I’ve used from 2006 to the 2020’s hasn’t given me much trouble.
Tubular track is fine but I don’t like it coming apart and having to fasten it down to tables all of the time though.
Just think, If you embraced 2 rail O scale, you could 100% avoid this problem. For my toy trains, it is traditional tubular... For scale trains, its hand laid O 2-rail.
ANY Trains, new or vintage, with toy specification wheels and couplers work best on classic tubular.
Not gonna lie since I was 8 I have had the original polar express and a couple other engines over time and even being a dumb kid not putting them away as I should still work perfectly fine nowadays and I’m 24 sucks you had such a bad experience with them.
Were can you find t track ,?
Hello Sam, I think fast track looks like junk, The running rails aren't T shaped like real rails and the hollow plastic roadbed makes noise, O gauge tubular track has been around for a time and most O gaugers I know wouldn't use anything else, You can make a good looking roadbed for O gauge track that will look a lot better than fast track Good luck with your trains Sam
tubular is much quieter than the fastrack also.
It’s only good for temporary setup, I don’t think I’ll invest anymore in it, I had the same problems like you had when I had an o scale collection, I’m getting back into it. I might look into Menards, but I personally would just go with a track that really works.
Nothing wrong with the old Lionel tube track. If you want a better looking track I use Gargraves with Ross switches.
I think O tubular track is great. yes it does not look like real train track but no mater we are dealing with 3 rail track anyway. The better choice for realism would be Gargarves it is strong and looks great as well. But me I stick with used O-27 and regular O gauge track.
I feel the purchase price of Fastrak is incredibly expen$ive and converting from tubular track is a major (and unnecessary) expense. I’d much rather take that money and apply it to a new locomotive. 🚂
Thanks
ok i will spend my dads cred card of tubular trak
I’m currently doing the opposite switching from tubular back to fast track it works better for me
To be honest, FastTrack is better because Tubular track looks kind of rusted up and FastTrack is way more realistic, plus! It’s way more steady than Tubular track.
Atlas o track. looks better and works better. You also don't have the same conductivity problems especially since the corrosion on nickel silver track is still conductive
I agree and have gone with tubular track
tubular track is ok just remember many scale cars and locomotives run on different track and dont run well on tubular track due to square drive wheels standered rule of thumb is run old engines on new track not the other way around i run both styles on my 12x12 layout and have excelent luck with both dut all set aside its awesome you are happy THATS THE POINT OF TOY TRAINS!!!!!!!!
awesum
Ive never had any issues with the fast track * l like lionel fast track
I love my FastTrack by lionel I never had problems u might had put together wrong all FastTrack all work together
Should have used a sludge hammer
After originally having MTH Realtrax I switched to Fastrack. Better, but if I had it to do over I would have gone with tubular.
Use Peco, it’s cheaper and looks better
fast track is fine
Fast track is junk,,,going to menards tommorow and buying a bunch of their track for my son and i
Glad I could help!
Why would you break your fast track right? That’s stupid don’t do that again.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 😡😡😡
I just can't get over how ugly the tube track is
Me either. I’m also into HO so when I was thinking about 0 it’s like…you want me to visually accept 3 rails AND to real ties… lol idk about that. I like fast tracks
@ryanbarnes8289 I like the size of O but I'm a HO guy. I really never understood why they did 3 rails, like I know there is 2 rail O but thats no where near as popular as 3 rail. That and I do have issues with alot of O scale diesels that have the steps separated so they move with the trucks. To me it just throws off the look. I mean hey I love alot of amazing o scale guys and there layouts, I just don't get why O scale did alot of the things they did
@@The_Duggler25 3 rail I started out for kids. the 3 rails are because the make wiring super easy. The two outside rails are - and the center is +. You can make reverse loops without any special complicated wiring for kids to play.
The separation on the trucks is so they can navigate tights turns on a 4x8 layout
But I do agree the looks of it all can be hard to get over
There are some 2 rail O like you said and also more to scale O but that’s not as popular
@@Bobdole4373 I get that with old stuff like pre and post war, that said today its not hard to do a reversing loop or even just buying a automatic reversing loop track piece. Really the same could be said for the moving pilot, though I still don't see why they couldn't make tight turns without doing the moving pilots. Could just sighting change the size of the truck to have just enough clearance. For me I admire many of the o guage guy on youtube and there amazing layouts, I just wish some of the led tec could make it down to the HO scale
@@The_Duggler25 I don’t disagree with you there 👍
I have no issues with Fastrack.
My father's layout has been tubular for 20+ years now. I think tubular is immortal.
I only have tubular track from Menards and my Santa fe locomotive and rolling stock ( all from Menards) never derails.
When I started getting back into American Flyer S gauge, I bought the Lionel American FasTrack to display the first couple of cars I bought. When I build my layout, I incorporated that FasTrack into the layout which was built using the original American Flyer track produced by the A.C. Gilbert company. I added ties made from strips of balsa wood, over cardboard, then ballasted with beach sand. It all looked very realistic, except for the FasTrack section. After a few months, trains started slowing way down on the 40 inch section of FasTrack. I had to dismantle that layout when I moved and I have used only the original Gilbert track on the new layout. I do use that strip of FasTrack for my test track, but will never buy any more. The Gilbert product is readily available, much less expensive, and a superior product, even at at least 60 years old.
It’s interesting the S Gauge track didn’t work out either. I’m sorry to hear. Thank you for sharing!
IMO, FasTrack is perfectly fine if you're building a permanent layout with all new track that hasn't been connected and disconnected again and again, and you want your layout to look realistic.
Tubular track is better if you repeatedly connect and disconnect your track because it's more rugged, and the connecting pins are more thick and substantial and can stand up better to constant plugging and unplugging track sections, and you don't care about realism or appearance.
When I was a kid, my first train set came with tubular track, and it lasted for years and years being set up on the floor of my room and taken apart again and again and again, and never had an electrical problem or operational problem.
As an adult, I have a FasTrak "layout" running around the perimeter of my living room (I'm a MGTOW introvert who lives alone, lol), and I rarely modify it, and it has never given me a problem either.
Just my opinion 🙂
I'm a Marklin man and it uses the 3-rail track. I'm on the fence as to get the plastic C track, and it has the plastic gravel but is so much more expensive than the original metal track. I never was a big fan of plastic and that's why I collect the older Marklin Locos and cars; as they are all metal (die cast). I have lots of rhe old school metal track and after seeing this video, I will stick with the metal track . Thanks for sharing your experience as it will save me a lot of time & money.
I originally started with Lionel fastrack but my take away was that I did not like all the noise that the road bed was making. Lionel Tubular and the Atles track systems are my two favorites
I hope to get atlas later on but tubular works for now.
Many of my Lionel trains have Magnatraction. Magnatraction will not work on Fastrack. I had a small loop of Fastrack because it would protect my carpet from any oil from my trains run around the Christmas tree. After 5 years I started having problems with it, so I tossed it.
My fasttrack pieces will disconnect, when I try to reconnect the track, ANOTHER PIECE will then disconnect, it is very annoying, I will for sure try to get some Menards track, especially since it’s cheaper.
I used tubular track when I was a kid and I had problems with the connectivity of the track. I’ve have fast track and I don’t have that problem any more.
I have been using fast track on a subway layout for the past 10 years with no problems. I ran the layout for about 2 years before I covered it with a surface layout
You forgot to mention how loud Fastrack is. I sold all mine and switched to Menards tubular
FasTrack is quite loud, especially on top of a wood board.
After abandoning realtrax, it was either Atlas or Menards due to availability in 2020. I needed a lot of track and Menards track was cheap and simple. Once I discovered Ross make 072 switches or you can get pins to run normal ross switches with tubular, I was set. Tubular is quiet, cheap, easy to cut, solder, make custom pieces, repair the fiber on the center rail without pulling up the track, and there is just something about how it looks with or without the extra ties when it’s ballasted. Conductivity is very good. 4 years with no issues. I have only had to fix one piece because of a misaligned fiber insulator on the center rail. It was easily reparable with a pair of needle nose pliers. Overall, it’s hard to beat tinplate track.