you cant put a price on the enjoyment and sense of accomplishment one would get out of putting together one of these kayaks, thank you mr Schade for making this possible
Your forms are numbered. How do you know which form is which? They don't come numbered in the kit and the manual doesn't indicate which form is which. Thank you
Try making two stacks of forms. One for the front, one for the stern. Start with the widest forms and go narrower and narrower. It will be obvious when the stack is correct, everything will change gradually and consistently.
I looks like you have stained the outside surfaces of the panels, have you also epoxy coated them as well? If so, why do this first instead of after assembly?
Nick, For those of us building your S&G designs from plans rather than from a kit, how would you go about fitting the panels together after cutting them out with a jigsaw? Do you stitch the deck/hull together separately, mark any high spots then take them apart and shave the high spots off? I am currently building your Guillemot design (thanks very much for the plans! I'll send you some photos of the build), and maybe one day when I am more patient will build one of your strip designs. Thanks Isaac
Try to make fair curves. Get your eye down close to the edge and sight down the length. Look for funky bumps and dips, keeping as close to the designed lines as possible. It is a lot of work to stitch it up, look for problems, unstitch, try to fix them and then stitch it again. Fair, smooth curves on the edges will result in fair, smooth curves in the boat.
Hi Nick... I have only recently found your videos and they are truly a great resource! Thanks for that! I would like to ask your opinion. In another hobby of mine, wood turning, folks are discovering that projects adhered with CA glue tend to fail after a number of years. These are some high end pieces by well-respected artists have come apart. As a result, in that hobby at least, folks now use CA only as a temporary holder... much like your "spot welds," but never as a permanent adhesive. In your design, I wonder about are the longer panels that are assembled with the jigsaw puzzle-like joints. Do you feel that the design relies on the CA to keep those joints together or once the epoxy is in place on the inside and outside, will it provide all the structural strength needed in those places? By the way, I found your videos Monday and I am already planning to sequentially build two of your designs; a S&G project to get it done more quickly and learn about graceful epoxy application, followed up by a Strip project... hopefully with two contrasting woods. My wife accurately calls me a "serial hobbiest." Thanks again, Nick.
Hi Craig, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. I only use the CA glue where it will be backed up with epoxy. It is brittle and I wouldn't trust it to hold under impact shocks. When I'm gluing the puzzle joints, I'm just putting enough CA on the joint to hold it until the epoxy comes along. There is not much CA glue in the joint and it is quite fragile at first. This means that there is nothing to block the epoxy from soaking into the joint. As a result, the puzzle joints are actually glued with epoxy in the finished product. That said, the fiberglass on either side of the joint makes it very strong. Even if, for some reason, no glue were to get into the puzzle joint, the glass on either side would likely be strong enough. So, completely gluing the puzzle joint with CA would probably be fine. I also use CA glue at the chine seams. Here the fillets provide considerable strength. I don't want the CA glue to interfere with the epoxy fillet.
Thin CA glue would just run right throught the wood or soak into the wood, best to use the thick stuff and the thin CA also get all over your fingers if you aren't extremely careful and very hard to get off
I’m working on a stitch & glue boat and my instructions have me use wood flour/epoxy all over the OUTSIDE... it looks terrible and I’m afraid it’s going to mess up my stain when I sand it smooth. Is it better to just do the wood flour/epoxy on the inside only?
Every first time builder has zero experience to start with. Don't be intimidated. Working from a kit is probably the easiest. Look at the various online resources and just go for it.
cheap plastic (polyethylene) kayak vs plywood kayak+fiberglass witch is better? Can you compare base on materials advantage and edge shapes. Thank you. It would be nice to see video. I have build big expedition SnG kayak... and I'm not sure if it is competitive to same size polyethylene kayak.
I guess when it went bang you spilled your coffee or you have been in court too many times and the gavel made you jump when the judge slammed it down.....just messing with you!
Yes, the folks over at Pygmy Boat use tape and appear to have good success with it. I think with tape there will be more times when you wish you had 5 hands, two the hold the boat, a couple to hold the tape and another to cut the tape off, but obviously some people have worked it out. The wire works like an extra pair of hands itself. It does have the downside of needing a hole to go through, but it works very well.
have you seen the designs by flo-mo? just amazing 1 and 2 sheets of plywood canoe and rowboat designs (3 different 12' canoes using just a sheet of ply each! and 14 -16 foot boats using 2 sheets), and he uses tape; some ppl use wire when making them I see, though
+h ldl Plans are available at www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/catalog/boat_building_plans/sg_night_heron_kayak_plans however, the plans do not include the puzzle joint as it is really hard to do by hand. The puzzle joint as available on the kit from CLC www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/stitch-and-glue-kayaks/stitch-glue-night-heron-kayak/stitch-and-glue-night-heron-sea-kayak-kit.html
Some kits require you drill the holes. So, while the panels may be cut to shape, the holes for stitching the panels together may not be there until you drill them. With the kit version of this kayak, the holes are pre-drill when you receive the panels.
I did bevel the plywood before assembly. An internal stem is not needed. I do have a fairly hefty fillet in the stem area which serves the same purpose.
It seems Nick stained the exterior plywood first, after it dries he does add a thin coat of epoxy over the stained wood so the stain doesnt get damaged
@@NickSchade because i,m cheap and i,d reuse the wires. Hey i,m an old man and i like to watch craft vids. I,d love to build your 16.5 decked canoe with a trolling motor inboard!
@@NickSchade yeah ,you are right. I watched your vid on using super glue to tack everything together. Very interesting. In that vid you removed the wires. Oh when you apply fiberglass do you metal roll the surfaces to remove air or is that not needed??? I,m following an australian who is making a 40 ft cruising cat, in molds, basically single handed and he always rolls his lay ups. Also do you use peel ply to save your self from sanding chores?
I agree, CA glue is not appropriate as a structural adhesive in boat building. The CA glue used here is not structural it is merely a quick way to hold it all together until I get epoxy on it. Call it a spot-weld until the real welding with epoxy is done.
you cant put a price on the enjoyment and sense of accomplishment one would get out of putting together one of these kayaks, thank you mr Schade for making this possible
I have two tables glued on now. One either side of my new boat. I find this makes it quite well balanced.
i know it is kind of randomly asking but does anybody know of a good website to stream new movies online?
Love your taste in music Nick, and your work of course!
Great instructional photography. Congrats. Very well done and good choice of unintrusive b.g. music.
Hi Nick... I have only recently found your videos and they are truly a great resource! Thanks for that!
Honestly I can't unhear the Sam Onella music.
I use 4mm marine grade plywood
Perfect job
you are not good, more, you are an artist
Your forms are numbered. How do you know which form is which? They don't come numbered in the kit and the manual doesn't indicate which form is which. Thank you
Try making two stacks of forms. One for the front, one for the stern. Start with the widest forms and go narrower and narrower. It will be obvious when the stack is correct, everything will change gradually and consistently.
Thanks! @@NickSchade
is fantastic, good work! congratulations. I am very interested in build a kayak.
A special thank you.
Bravo............come sempre...!!!
Thanks for sharing subscribed
I looks like you have stained the outside surfaces of the panels, have you also epoxy coated them as well? If so, why do this first instead of after assembly?
Nick,
For those of us building your S&G designs from plans rather than from a kit, how would you go about fitting the panels together after cutting them out with a jigsaw? Do you stitch the deck/hull together separately, mark any high spots then take them apart and shave the high spots off?
I am currently building your Guillemot design (thanks very much for the plans! I'll send you some photos of the build), and maybe one day when I am more patient will build one of your strip designs.
Thanks
Isaac
Try to make fair curves. Get your eye down close to the edge and sight down the length. Look for funky bumps and dips, keeping as close to the designed lines as possible.
It is a lot of work to stitch it up, look for problems, unstitch, try to fix them and then stitch it again. Fair, smooth curves on the edges will result in fair, smooth curves in the boat.
If I wanted to, could I miter the edges of the joints with a hand plane? Would it give it more of a seamless look?
I can't find anything on building sectional kayaks. How do you achieve a watertight seal if the sections are bolted together through the bulkheads?
Hi Nick... I have only recently found your videos and they are truly a great resource! Thanks for that!
I would like to ask your opinion. In another hobby of mine, wood turning, folks are discovering that projects adhered with CA glue tend to fail after a number of years. These are some high end pieces by well-respected artists have come apart. As a result, in that hobby at least, folks now use CA only as a temporary holder... much like your "spot welds," but never as a permanent adhesive.
In your design, I wonder about are the longer panels that are assembled with the jigsaw puzzle-like joints. Do you feel that the design relies on the CA to keep those joints together or once the epoxy is in place on the inside and outside, will it provide all the structural strength needed in those places?
By the way, I found your videos Monday and I am already planning to sequentially build two of your designs; a S&G project to get it done more quickly and learn about graceful epoxy application, followed up by a Strip project... hopefully with two contrasting woods. My wife accurately calls me a "serial hobbiest."
Thanks again, Nick.
Hi Craig,
I'm glad you are enjoying the videos.
I only use the CA glue where it will be backed up with epoxy. It is brittle and I wouldn't trust it to hold under impact shocks.
When I'm gluing the puzzle joints, I'm just putting enough CA on the joint to hold it until the epoxy comes along. There is not much CA glue in the joint and it is quite fragile at first. This means that there is nothing to block the epoxy from soaking into the joint. As a result, the puzzle joints are actually glued with epoxy in the finished product.
That said, the fiberglass on either side of the joint makes it very strong. Even if, for some reason, no glue were to get into the puzzle joint, the glass on either side would likely be strong enough. So, completely gluing the puzzle joint with CA would probably be fine.
I also use CA glue at the chine seams. Here the fillets provide considerable strength. I don't want the CA glue to interfere with the epoxy fillet.
Thanks for the quick response and the clarification!
Hi
Nick, this video is already very many years ... But can you remember what thickness of plywood did you use 3mm or 4mm?
It is 4mm Okoume.
Thin CA glue would just run right throught the wood or soak into the wood, best to use the thick stuff and the thin CA also get all over your fingers if you aren't extremely careful and very hard to get off
I’m working on a stitch & glue boat and my instructions have me use wood flour/epoxy all over the OUTSIDE... it looks terrible and I’m afraid it’s going to mess up my stain when I sand it smooth. Is it better to just do the wood flour/epoxy on the inside only?
NICE, VERY NICE.
just wondering what kind of glue and spray you are using and where you can buy it thanks
SALUDOS CORDIALES A TODOS DESDE PANAMÁ Y BENDICIONES PARA TODOS. MUY BUEN VÍDEO VOY A CONSTRUIR E U O ASÍ...... MI KAYAK. 😀😀😀🤗🤗🇵🇦🇵🇦🇵🇦🇵🇦🤗🤗🤗
Outstanding, Sir!
Why does the plywood look shiny on one side and dull on the other? Is it already stained or something?
Wonderfull!!
I really like your videos!
Como faço para conseguir esses modelos em pdf para corte?
informative and good looking titles.
Can I buy a kayak kit?
Just out of interest how thick is the plywood? Could I get away with using some 4mm exterior grade?
Festive music! Are you hiding flute playing elves under the table??
Very nice I find this interesting and am wondering the best way to start if one has zero experience.
Every first time builder has zero experience to start with. Don't be intimidated. Working from a kit is probably the easiest. Look at the various online resources and just go for it.
cheap plastic (polyethylene) kayak vs plywood kayak+fiberglass witch is better? Can you compare base on materials advantage and edge shapes. Thank you. It would be nice to see video.
I have build big expedition SnG kayak... and I'm not sure if it is competitive to same size polyethylene kayak.
when he smacked it with the mallet it really killed the mood
I guess when it went bang you spilled your coffee or you have been in court too many times and the gavel made you jump when the judge slammed it down.....just messing with you!
Thanks
😍😍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍👍
How do you affix the deck to the sides?
I notice you used thick CA glue to join the seams. Have you tried thin CA glue can you give your opinion if you did? Thanks.
Hey nice job ! Have you reference for the CA glue ?
The gel CA glue is this: amzn.to/2DnXUmw and the accelerant is this: amzn.to/2kWNP7s
In all seriousness, could a builder use tape instead of wire?
Yes, the folks over at Pygmy Boat use tape and appear to have good success with it. I think with tape there will be more times when you wish you had 5 hands, two the hold the boat, a couple to hold the tape and another to cut the tape off, but obviously some people have worked it out.
The wire works like an extra pair of hands itself. It does have the downside of needing a hole to go through, but it works very well.
zip ties are faster
have you seen the designs by flo-mo? just amazing 1 and 2 sheets of plywood canoe and rowboat designs (3 different 12' canoes using just a sheet of ply each! and 14 -16 foot boats using 2 sheets), and he uses tape; some ppl use wire when making them I see, though
Amigo muito bom seu trabalho.
Gostaria de saber de você se conhece algum site que tenha projetos de canoa de compensado náutico para pesca?
Agradeço
also where did you get the plans and if they are your can you buy them off u I like the way it goes together like a puzzlelooks great
+h ldl Plans are available at www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/catalog/boat_building_plans/sg_night_heron_kayak_plans however, the plans do not include the puzzle joint as it is really hard to do by hand. The puzzle joint as available on the kit from CLC www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/stitch-and-glue-kayaks/stitch-glue-night-heron-kayak/stitch-and-glue-night-heron-sea-kayak-kit.html
Can someone explain the difference between pre-drilled holes and drilled holes?
Some kits require you drill the holes. So, while the panels may be cut to shape, the holes for stitching the panels together may not be there until you drill them.
With the kit version of this kayak, the holes are pre-drill when you receive the panels.
great vid!
Nice work !! How I can get the plans, I live in Brazil !! Thanks.
U R AWESOME ! SUPER NICE BUILD !!! THANK YOU SIR =)
Woudl one get a cleaner seam by beveling the edges of pieces of plywood? WHat about an internal stem?
I did bevel the plywood before assembly. An internal stem is not needed. I do have a fairly hefty fillet in the stem area which serves the same purpose.
Where did you get the kit?
love your work man nice job where can I get plans for plywood boats
I offer plans at www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/catalog/boat_building_plans/stitch_and_glue_boat_plans_0 also check out clcboats.com
那一包泥土又是甚麼做的呀?
How cann I buy the projecto?
Plans for this kayak and others like it are available at my website: www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/catalog/boat_building_plans/sea_kayak_plans
Hi Nick, what's the spray please? thanks
It is an accelerant for the Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. It makes it set up almost immediately.
is it epoxy pre-coat plkywood?
It seems Nick stained the exterior plywood first, after it dries he does add a thin coat of epoxy over the stained wood so the stain doesnt get damaged
excuse, the glue that uses the minute 0:28?
CyanoAcrylate (CA) glue. Like "SuperGlue" or "Crazy Glue"
Thanks Nick, and congratulations, you are an artist, not a carpenter any
you can give me the plans for this model? thx.
Follow the link in the description for information about getting the plans.
你太棒了!!!!!!
Rubens, Brasil
你噴的.是甚麼呢?
www.caglue.com/QA-3-bNCF-Quick-3ozb-aerosol-CA-glue-accelerator_p_62.html
2.54 cms
I,d untwist and pull out instead of cutting those wires.
Why?
@@NickSchade because i,m cheap and i,d reuse the wires. Hey i,m an old man and i like to watch craft vids. I,d love to build your 16.5 decked canoe with a trolling motor inboard!
The wires get so mangled and fatigued that they are not reusable.
@@NickSchade yeah ,you are right. I watched your vid on using super glue to tack everything together. Very interesting. In that vid you removed the wires. Oh when you apply fiberglass do you metal roll the surfaces to remove air or is that not needed??? I,m following an australian who is making a 40 ft cruising cat, in molds, basically single handed and he always rolls his lay ups. Also do you use peel ply to save your self from sanding chores?
Never in a million years would I ever use cs glue on a kayak epoxy or tek 3 glue is what I'd choose
I agree, CA glue is not appropriate as a structural adhesive in boat building. The CA glue used here is not structural it is merely a quick way to hold it all together until I get epoxy on it. Call it a spot-weld until the real welding with epoxy is done.
Loose the stupid music
Hit mute