I was in the same boat. Hot water for maybe 30sec then nothing. My brother in law had this happen as well, so he said I should pull and check it. Well it ended up shooting out (the inner valve itself) of the brass housing. I ran hot water with great success without the valve the rest of the trip. Bought a new one when we got back home, now I’m putting that in. It is a BITCH to get out. My hot water tank is under a hide a bed. Hard to get to. The impact…. Great idea my friend!
Thank you for the video! I'm dealing with low hot water pressure yet have strong cold water pressure. I also found a leak on the twist plastic end on the check valve. Thanks again! Great video?
Do you mean you took out the guts, re-installed the check valve and are using the water heater until you can get a new check valve? I'm wondering if the system will still work with no check valve guts?
My "T" winterizing diverter went bad. When I took it out and blew into it - it worked fine - but when I connected it to the bottom of the T side and turned on the water it flowed through the other free ports. So blowing into it and turning the knob is not a valid test. :-( I did all of the work of replacing the check valve and only needed to swap the T valve.
Mine was in same position at top of tank. It was plastic. I thought at first it was plastic because they went cheap. But after I put the replacement one made of brass in, and it works fine so far, I read on a forum that different metals can fuse together. I did use Teflon tape so there is a barrier between the metals. It’s a 10 gallon Atwood which is aluminum. I think the temperature for electrolysis may be a lot higher than the temperature of the water heater, not sure. I don’t want to take new valve out and put new plastic in, as this was a very difficult job due to the location of the back of the tank. I noticed your replacement was brass and I guess the one you took out was original from factory? What are your thoughts?
I do believe it was original. I think the Teflon should act as a good barrier for the corrosion. I was grateful that there was a panel to remove for access to the back of mine. I'm glad to hear the video helped. Happy camping. 🙂
My hot water taps throughout RV are spurring and pushing out air I supposed I need to check that valve and replace it since I am not sure why else would hot water spur when cold water not
Thank goodness for your video I watched tons and couldn't figure out my issue but your video helped me put my puzzle together!
Glad to hear. I was happy to figure this out and thought it could help people by sharing it.
I was in the same boat. Hot water for maybe 30sec then nothing. My brother in law had this happen as well, so he said I should pull and check it. Well it ended up shooting out (the inner valve itself) of the brass housing. I ran hot water with great success without the valve the rest of the trip. Bought a new one when we got back home, now I’m putting that in. It is a BITCH to get out. My hot water tank is under a hide a bed. Hard to get to. The impact…. Great idea my friend!
Thank you for the feedback. I was lucky that mine is located in an easy to reach spot, and there is a panel to remove for access. Happy camping!
Thank you for the video! I'm dealing with low hot water pressure yet have strong cold water pressure. I also found a leak on the twist plastic end on the check valve. Thanks again! Great video?
Thank you for the feedback. When I found this problem, I couldn't find any videos addressing the issue and figured it would help. 🙂
Just pulled mine and took the guts out until I can get a new one. Easy fix.
For sure.
Do you mean you took out the guts, re-installed the check valve and are using the water heater until you can get a new check valve? I'm wondering if the system will still work with no check valve guts?
My "T" winterizing diverter went bad. When I took it out and blew into it - it worked fine - but when I connected it to the bottom of the T side and turned on the water it flowed through the other free ports. So blowing into it and turning the knob is not a valid test. :-( I did all of the work of replacing the check valve and only needed to swap the T valve.
What size socket did you use to get it off
Was a one inch.
Mine was in same position at top of tank. It was plastic. I thought at first it was plastic because they went cheap. But after I put the replacement one made of brass in, and it works fine so far, I read on a forum that different metals can fuse together. I did use Teflon tape so there is a barrier between the metals. It’s a 10 gallon Atwood which is aluminum. I think the temperature for electrolysis may be a lot higher than the temperature of the water heater, not sure. I don’t want to take new valve out and put new plastic in, as this was a very difficult job due to the location of the back of the tank. I noticed your replacement was brass and I guess the one you took out was original from factory? What are your thoughts?
I do believe it was original. I think the Teflon should act as a good barrier for the corrosion. I was grateful that there was a panel to remove for access to the back of mine. I'm glad to hear the video helped. Happy camping. 🙂
My hot water taps throughout RV are spurring and pushing out air
I supposed I need to check that valve and replace it since I am not sure why else would hot water spur when cold water not
It could be the problem. Have you had a chance to dig into it yet?
Hi! About how long did this take to replace?
20 minutes or so. Most of the time was spent getting to it.
Just had this same problem they were so hard to get off
Mine was too. Tried to use a wrench first, then a socket with ratchet. Ended up using my electric impact gun and it came out a lot easier.
you did so well the first half of the video. then you stated calling it a "hot water heater". why would you want to heat "hot" water?
Not a good idea to use an impact on a porcelain lined tank.
Good point