Hey guys! My partner Leander and I are currently rebuilding our Trident Warrior 38 ourselves and I cannot adequately express how helpful your channel is to us! It seems that you have done every job that we need to do ;) We also have to rebuild our rudder and in this video you mention that it would be great for the community to have this mold. We would be beyond grateful if we could borrow/rent/buy the mold from you! It would for sure bring you good karma ;) Think about it and hope to hear from you :)
I think rudder failure is my greatest fear. With a 37' fiberglass sailboat that is 37 years old, there is lots of water in my rudder. In the fall when i get it on the hard i drill a few holes and drain it out. i think most fiberglass boats built before 1990 will have water logged rudders. Every spring before i launch i say a prayer to poseidon and cruise the coast with my Sea Tow membership taped to my forehead. If i ever get up the gumption to do some blue water cruising, rebuilding the rudder will be first on my list. And then a life raft, EPIRB, AIS .... Even with all your groaning about the sanding i think you really love working on your boat. I love it too and sometimes its an effort to love sailing more!
If you are wondering how long it takes to watch every episode from start to finish, it was about 2 weeks straight of binge watching every chance I could too midnight every day.I recently purchased 36 foot Cheoy Lee Luders named PANDORA that I will be restoring with my wife. You are truly and inspiration. Mads you are simply amazing! You and Ava rock! This channel has been like a great book I just kept flipping the pages and I couldn't put it down. I sure hope to see you on the high seas one day! I am sad to be done binge watching the channel but now am excited to wait and see next week for the next installment of MADS GREAT REFIT ADVENTURE! Keep Inspiring us all. I hope you know the impact your are leaving. A fellow sailor -JORDAN
Impressive diligence and attention to detail...once again! You must have slept reasonably well to have uploaded this video. Thanks for all your hard work.
Way to pull an all-nighter on the rudder mold. Can't wait to see the rest of this mold-making process and the big rudder build eventually. The Rudder Saga needs to have its own playlist on the channel, from the very beginnings of the story with the removal of the old one (with frozen hole non-dig debacle) all the way to the finish. This is intense cinema. You really are a quite gifted storyteller Mads.
Hiya dear sir, wait a week???? I didn't think you would be and I was right for once, I've read your comment about turning it over and... but if others have not yet read it I'll leave the cliff hanger in place... What a wonderful video, action filled, dynamic and that wasn't even you. I've enjoyed this as much as I always do so thank you and keep up the fantastic work...
Mads this may be my favorite episode. Your keen mind for detail has always been most impressive, but this seemingly small project from last weeks perspective turns out to be a very complex procedure which you handled like a pro. Thank you very much for sharing your project... as such is among the most informative vlogs on the sailing web. With that said, put me in the smallest piece first camp. The reason is that I study at the feet of Andy Miller and that’s how he taught me to do it. If memory serves, such provides the means to establish a better, sturdier chemical bond with the other side. Thanks again Mads... this is great stuff.
Mads i know you're a master craftsman , but please be sure to use your respirator and plenty of ventilation those fumes can sneak up on you . I use to work in a surf shop where you could cut the fumes with a knife and it was easy to drift into La La Land .... great vid !
This is very helpful, because i really want to build a WW2 PT boat model, and i was thinking of using foam board for the buck, and then make a mold from that. If mads can do it, anyone can! Keep up the great work sir.☺️
I absolutely appreciate the care and craftsmanship you put into each project. Not to mention the many hours you must spend creating this content. Furthermore, the fact that you admit to using documentation underscores the importance of learning and having a growth mindset. Great stuff! Keep it up.
at this point, it needs to be said that there should be academy awards for amateur videos, and the first one should go to this guy. outstanding. also.... SO GLAD i didnt mold my new rudder and just laid it up over a wood core!
Today on this episode of How its Made. Joking aside this is why I love this channel. How its done, solving problems, taking risks and going for it. Great work Ava should be proud.
Try rolling the wax out with the palm of your hand on a flat non stick surface to make it into a long noodle 3-4mm thick. Much easier to place in the gap than how you were doing it. By the way.. Great channel! Been watching for years!
Once you have your first couple of layers on buddy,slap a heap on and definately some stringers from foam ,wood steel.I generaly make moulds 4 times thicker than part so it can take the heat of multiple pulls,and in this case if you are going to make them commercially,I guess there is potential for a lot of them for the warrior.I also coat outside of mould to ensure no loss of vacuum when infusing parts.Your resin should be ok for this however as you have used tooling resin to form the mould.Great job buddy,long hours are the norm for this work.Cheers Ross
A common mistake made by most 1st timers using a spray gun is spraying in an arc motion. This results in more material built up in the middle and less material on either end. You want to hold the gun parallel to the work surface at all times. For your 1st time, I'd say you did pretty well!
Another great video! Thanks for sharing. Your commitment to such high standards is an inspiration and your willingness to tackle jobs others dismiss means you'll have a boat that you know inside and out. Don't let anyone else tell you what should be important to you!
Mold-build Mads-style seems legit. The spray stuff might ruin Your surface quality (doesn't have to mandatorily though ...), but we'll see that next week. In that dimensions, waxing/polishing should be enough to de-mold. About those sharp edgy concaves: We put in filled resin blobs in those nooks and crannies the heavy rovings didn't want to snuggle in without building bubbles and air entrapments. Works with cotton or glass, and a slight addition of silica to avoid running out/dry spots. I wouldn't use the red microballons (407), too brittle. Might need slow hardener for volume. Definitely a good idea is making a mold which is about to get transported from Warrior owner to Warrior owner to Warrior owner and so on VERY stable and "bullet proof" in terms of transportation and storage.
Thanks for the link to the mould stuff,,, I'm going to create some moulds for a redesign on my sailboat, converting it from a open wheelhouse to a closed wheelhouse. So thank you for shortening my search time by quite a bit. Best of luck with the rudder project.
So funny to see you doing what I did for a living for many years. Having made hundreds of molds and even more patterns for molds of all sorts I can't believe the over the top German instructions. But generally what you have done looks fine some minor things not worth mentioning. But The weirdest think was the coupling coat . That I do not like at all. ( I have seen that suggested elsewhere and I did it once with aluminum grains) I have always laid glass up behind the almost tack free surface coat if using epoxy like this . That coupling coat will be so easy to get air bubbles in it . But it will not matter for this mold. It will be interesting to see the final mold. Oh those alignment pins are crazy much better to have round disk with lots of angle on it .the pins will be a pain. I'm way behind so off I got to each part 2 Cheers Warren
R&G stuff works really well!! I made tons of molds with the same material from R&G. => but you should reinforce the mold with foam stripes that are glassed over AND also add a 45degree layer against torsion. Try to make those reinforcements in a way that you include „legs“ so that you can flip the mold later and it has a stable stand while molding parts. Great video and well done!!
I would also think that you would have to reinforce the mold so it doesn't deform when you make the second part. That rudder seems heavy and the weight of could deform the mold. I hope not.
Fantastic work Mads. Looking forward to next week's video. I have never done this extent of fiberglass work so this is like a DIY course for me. Take care and have a good week.
Great video Mads! Just signed up to be a Patron on Patreon, I want to support videos like this that show a detailed approach to boat DIY done the right way. Keep it up!
Mads, probably not a big deal for the pva layer but when spray painting you should be releasing the trigger at the end of a sweep and then rejigger when you do the return sweep. Otherwise you get uneven coverage at the outer edges of your sweep. Also try to keep the spray fan parallel to the piece or you'll get thicker coverage see where the fan is closer. Not a big deal for something like a pva layer but keep in mind if you're ever applying paint (or possibly the gel coat when you build the new rudder!
Awaiting part 2. Video very detailed and a big thumbs up on this one. Hopefully the opening of the existing rudder will allow use of existing metal. Looking forward to the next chapter. Get some rest. 😉
Great to see your work progressing nicely. Of course my previous suggestion to use plaster would not be useful as you intended to have the mold available for future sailors to use. Good and gracious thought! You could have stopped part way and gotten some sleep though, and it would not have harmed the finished part in any way. Adding some structural members alway helps if you make them flat so that it’s easy to set the mold on your work table without wobbling while you are laying up the part. Sleep tight!
Nice work Mads. The instructions are different from how I learned to make molds, but we used polyester resin rather than epoxy. I do suggest that you separate the mold from the rudder before you do the other side. That will make doing the final separation a LOT less suspenseful. I don't know what your instructions for separating the part say, but once you get the wedges in, pouring some water into the gap between the mold and the part helps a lot.
Thank you so much for leaving that comment Todd :) Today I attempted to flip the rudder (heavy) and by accident, the rudder and the mold separated. The instructions specifically said to not separate the mold from the rudder until both halves are done. Reading your comment reassured me that I can still end up with a functional mold :) The mold looked almost perfect on the inside. My parting board must have moved a little bit (
@@SailLife That is good news Mads! It was a wery interesting episode - it is good to know that so far your hard work comes out nice. On the next part: it would be interesting to see how you band the fiberglass into that little whole where you cut board and used epoxy + one screw to hold it in place - I consider that part the most difficult in terms of laying the glass over.
@@SailLife Mads, that is one way to do it. Put the rudder back in the mold, put more plasticene (what we call modelling clay here in the states) into the seam between the rudder and the mold, wax everything and spray with PVA and you will be good to lay up the second half of the mold. Just make sure the rudder is well set back in the mold. That will be the only tricky part.
Before pouring water, compressed air and a slight bump with a rubber mallet should do the trick. It's not that big or overly complicated, is it? The shift of parting board does not matter because You lay up the other side without it directly to the partingboard mold You already produced. Don't skimp with playdoh when doing the second side. You do not want to involuntarily infuse resin into Your now loose first moldhalf.
Fantastic piece of work. At the start I was planning to say, "I wish I'd done my rudder that way" - but it definitely does not look easy. I think the fact is that there is no easy way to re-do a rudder. Everything looks excellent so far and I can't wait until next week to see how it turns out.
Mads, I have boatloads of respect for your tenacious desire to keep pushing forward on this project, and your obsessive desire for perfection.Unfortunately I think the best way you could contribute to the warrior boat owners community is by warning them all about just how poorly their boats are designed and constructed. I truly believe there are only a few individuals in the world today that have the means, skills and determination you possess to try and make steak out of a boat that is poorly designed hamburger. Cheers
I have owned a Warrior 40 from new for 21 years. It was fully completed by the factory and it is in great condition. I suspect Mads's Warrior was a home completion job as things are finished in a different way and I must say I am amazed at the problems he has had.
@@clayfarnet970 No matter. Mads is doing a great service to all old boat owners. I have lived on a 41 year old Valiant-40 for over 12 years and have now only sailed little more than 1/2 way around the world. I would have liked to see Mads videos long before having to complete some of the same projects on my own boat. I wonder about the rudders on these old boats. It will be very interesting to see what he finds opening up his own rudder. Maybe it will ease my concerns. I hope.
Sorry the warriors are fine boats, great angus primrose design, every boat has issues. Remember this boat has already sailed round the world so its wasn't all bad! and it's 40 years old! Cheers Warren
Strongley recommend doing the reinforcements. Foam or wood battens in a grid####pattern. Especially If this is to be shipped to other rudder builds.. 👍
Fingers crossed that the mold comes out good. You've become quite adept with fiberglass in general and this was mostly an extension of those skills. I'm optimistic! Cliffhanger is right! Us as well as you! But you only have to wait a day. We have to wait a week.
Au contraire! He did an AWESOME job doing a stunt descent, beginning with a tail slide and straightening up for a 10/10 finishing fllourish! Loved it! Check it out at 5:18
Think u need to build a vacuum system.... a tight seal on and ur vacuum cleaner will work.... peal ply and putty to form a makeshift chamber round.the rudder. Should solve the conformity issue and if done right no air bubbles yay
Mads, as always that was a very interesting and informative vlog. I'm sure we're all waiting with bated breath for the finished mold and next week's vlog. Keep up the hard work and pushing forward on your extensive refit of Athena.
Jökull sure seems a little clumsy, but tough too! Anyway, the cost/benefit of getting a little bump while having tons of fun easily comes down on the beneficial side :D On the mold, I long to see what the process of laying glass to make the actual rudder looks like. My dad once bought a bare fiberglass hull that was made with just kids play-doh inside the mold, followed by tons of glass. Seemed simple and effective! I can't remember the surface finish, however. I'm sure whatever your process is, you're gonna work super hard and get rewarded with perfect results in the end. Keep it up!
I enjoy your channel very much. I feel bad for not raising this before, but why not use something like corcel layers and fibreglass to form the rudder. I had to build a new rudder a few years ago and that method worked out very well and likely much less work than making a mold. Maybe I missed the rational for building it your way.
Hi thanks for an amazing DIY videos. I'm not a fiber glass guy. but from my research I noticed that people use chopped strand mat with light weight to conform to tight corners. not sure if you want to give this a try!
Mads - great attention to detail. I have built many moulds and have never used epoxy resin - always polyester. The main reason is cost, because epoxy is much more expensive. Sure polyester uses a different catalyst system, but that is much better in cold weather because you can control the rate of hardening off. It does smell a lot more than epoxy and requires acetone for clean up (methylated spirits is fine for epoxy), but it is as I say much less expensive. Obviously you can use epoxy to make the parts, but for a mould like the rudder I would have done it in polyester. Just a suggestion.....
You take your multitool, take one of the wood saw blades, cut it so it tapers to a 1 cm pad at the end, bend it so it's only 1 cm to the bend (so you create a 1x1cm pad) then glue a 1x1cm patch of sand paper to it (contact cement). And voila, you'll have your sanding implement for nooks. Obviously, the shape and size of the pad can be changed to meet needs, the speed should be medium and above.
Could you elaborate on why you're building a whole new rudder. A little rust is to be expected of stainless when encapsulated and deprived of oxygen but that doesn't mean the structure is compromised. There must be a way to inspect the rudder interior , maybe some exploratory holes that can be fiberglassed over. You can put a camera through a 1/4" hole and see what's inside or at least see if any water comes out of the hole.
Hi Mads, most enjoyable series of videos. Just wondering if you take rudder to a specialist non destruction testing laboratory and they can radiograph the rudder and you will get to see an image of the internal metal frame. Me thinks the encapsulated section may be carbon steel not stainless like the shaft. So looking forward to the continued evolution of this project.
If you used gelcoat and polyester instead with chop strain matte the wax layer would have been enough, chop strain matte is also way easier to get in to corners without bubbles. I have built a lot of "plugs" and forms from small 6 meters boat halls to tops on trailers etc in that way. I also glass in aluminium for reinforcement if the mold is going to be used a lot.
Almost hit the dislike thumb because I have to wait a week to see the results, but good sense prevailed. Thanks Mads, I've never seen a mold being made. Very informative.
![Would You SAIL THE WORLD on This 28' Boat? [Full Tour] Learning the Lines](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nqzO8b5zito/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey guys! My partner Leander and I are currently rebuilding our Trident Warrior 38 ourselves and I cannot adequately express how helpful your channel is to us! It seems that you have done every job that we need to do ;) We also have to rebuild our rudder and in this video you mention that it would be great for the community to have this mold. We would be beyond grateful if we could borrow/rent/buy the mold from you! It would for sure bring you good karma ;) Think about it and hope to hear from you :)
I think rudder failure is my greatest fear. With a 37' fiberglass sailboat that is 37 years old, there is lots of water in my rudder. In the fall when i get it on the hard i drill a few holes and drain it out. i think most fiberglass boats built before 1990 will have water logged rudders. Every spring before i launch i say a prayer to poseidon and cruise the coast with my Sea Tow membership taped to my forehead. If i ever get up the gumption to do some blue water cruising, rebuilding the rudder will be first on my list. And then a life raft, EPIRB, AIS .... Even with all your groaning about the sanding i think you really love working on your boat. I love it too and sometimes its an effort to love sailing more!
If you are wondering how long it takes to watch every episode from start to finish, it was about 2 weeks straight of binge watching every chance I could too midnight every day.I recently purchased 36 foot Cheoy Lee Luders named PANDORA that I will be restoring with my wife. You are truly and inspiration. Mads you are simply amazing! You and Ava rock! This channel has been like a great book I just kept flipping the pages and I couldn't put it down. I sure hope to see you on the high seas one day! I am sad to be done binge watching the channel but now am excited to wait and see next week for the next installment of MADS GREAT REFIT ADVENTURE! Keep Inspiring us all. I hope you know the impact your are leaving. A fellow sailor -JORDAN
I like your diligence, patience and perfection.
I can't wait 7 days 😵 !!!!!!!! As usual it is a please to follow your channel and your job on that rudder was amazing
Impressive diligence and attention to detail...once again! You must have slept reasonably well to have uploaded this video. Thanks for all your hard work.
Way to pull an all-nighter on the rudder mold. Can't wait to see the rest of this mold-making process and the big rudder build eventually.
The Rudder Saga needs to have its own playlist on the channel, from the very beginnings of the story with the removal of the old one (with frozen hole non-dig debacle) all the way to the finish.
This is intense cinema. You really are a quite gifted storyteller Mads.
The fall was hilarious!!! I am glad he is ok though!!!!
I absolutely lost my mind laughing when the dog tripped going down the stairs. The two of them have perfect comedy timing! 🤣
Hiya dear sir, wait a week???? I didn't think you would be and I was right for once, I've read your comment about turning it over and... but if others have not yet read it I'll leave the cliff hanger in place...
What a wonderful video, action filled, dynamic and that wasn't even you. I've enjoyed this as much as I always do so thank you and keep up the fantastic work...
Mads, you are a 2x4. That’s what we call a stud in the states! I’m exhausted just watching that all nighter. 👍👍✌️
Mads this may be my favorite episode. Your keen mind for detail has always been most impressive, but this seemingly small project from last weeks perspective turns out to be a very complex procedure which you handled like a pro.
Thank you very much for sharing your project... as such is among the most informative vlogs on the sailing web.
With that said, put me in the smallest piece first camp.
The reason is that I study at the feet of Andy Miller and that’s how he taught me to do it. If memory serves, such provides the means to establish a better, sturdier chemical bond with the other side.
Thanks again Mads... this is great stuff.
I’ve been out cruising and haven’t seen my dog Charlie in quite a long time. Seeing yours makes me smile, he seems a good little chap.
Mads i know you're a master craftsman , but please be sure to use your respirator and plenty of ventilation those fumes can sneak up on you . I use to work in a surf shop where you could cut the fumes with a knife and it was easy to drift into La La Land .... great vid !
This is very helpful, because i really want to build a WW2 PT boat model, and i was thinking of using foam board for the buck, and then make a mold from that.
If mads can do it, anyone can!
Keep up the great work sir.☺️
Comming up next week. Making a fiberglass mold for the new hull.
For that, you need to watch: ruclips.net/channel/UCcJ-7wSvo6_BHsnbytM0jzg
😂😂😂🤣
@@BobMuk08 I don't think I can handle that :-)
I absolutely appreciate the care and craftsmanship you put into each project. Not to mention the many hours you must spend creating this content. Furthermore, the fact that you admit to using documentation underscores the importance of learning and having a growth mindset. Great stuff! Keep it up.
at this point, it needs to be said that there should be academy awards for amateur videos, and the first one should go to this guy. outstanding. also.... SO GLAD i didnt mold my new rudder and just laid it up over a wood core!
Today on this episode of How its Made. Joking aside this is why I love this channel. How its done, solving problems, taking risks and going for it. Great work Ava should be proud.
O man I am sitting on the edge of my chair for the next episode......got to love it ....Cap
Try rolling the wax out with the palm of your hand on a flat non stick surface to make it into a long noodle 3-4mm thick. Much easier to place in the gap than how you were doing it. By the way.. Great channel! Been watching for years!
One of your best vids yet. The shop is a great change of scenery, and of course, I love dogs!
:O I was wondering if he fell or if just came down the stairs oddly. Cheers Mads, it's looking great, hope you have a great week, Bryan.
Nice Job. Never seen the chopped strand step before. Looks good.
wow she's starting to look real nice Mads !
Nice to see the pooch lots.
Excellent presentation, You have style and logic. jimmy Thank You
Once you have your first couple of layers on buddy,slap a heap on and definately some stringers from foam ,wood steel.I generaly make moulds 4 times thicker than part so it can take the heat of multiple pulls,and in this case if you are going to make them commercially,I guess there is potential for a lot of them for the warrior.I also coat outside of mould to ensure no loss of vacuum when infusing parts.Your resin should be ok for this however as you have used tooling resin to form the mould.Great job buddy,long hours are the norm for this work.Cheers Ross
Really good video. You explained the process really well and I am looking forward to the next video.
A common mistake made by most 1st timers using a spray gun is spraying in an arc motion. This results in more material built up in the middle and less material on either end. You want to hold the gun parallel to the work surface at all times. For your 1st time, I'd say you did pretty well!
Instablaster.
No one works harder on their dreams. Good for you Mads!
Well done I’m sure all the hard work will work.
I love that you filmed even so it got so late
Another great video! Thanks for sharing. Your commitment to such high standards is an inspiration and your willingness to tackle jobs others dismiss means you'll have a boat that you know inside and out. Don't let anyone else tell you what should be important to you!
Used to do fiberglass boat repair, oh how I know those late nights, it is amazing how comfortably a creeper becomes !
Mold-build Mads-style seems legit.
The spray stuff might ruin Your surface quality (doesn't have to mandatorily though ...), but we'll see that next week. In that dimensions, waxing/polishing should be enough to de-mold.
About those sharp edgy concaves: We put in filled resin blobs in those nooks and crannies the heavy rovings didn't want to snuggle in without building bubbles and air entrapments.
Works with cotton or glass, and a slight addition of silica to avoid running out/dry spots.
I wouldn't use the red microballons (407), too brittle. Might need slow hardener for volume.
Definitely a good idea is making a mold which is about to get transported from Warrior owner to Warrior owner to Warrior owner and so on VERY stable and "bullet proof" in terms of transportation and storage.
Thanks for the link to the mould stuff,,, I'm going to create some moulds for a redesign on my sailboat, converting it from a open wheelhouse to a closed wheelhouse.
So thank you for shortening my search time by quite a bit. Best of luck with the rudder project.
So funny to see you doing what I did for a living for many years. Having made hundreds of molds and even more patterns for molds of all sorts I can't believe the over the top German instructions. But generally what you have done looks fine some minor things not worth mentioning.
But The weirdest think was the coupling coat . That I do not like at all. ( I have seen that suggested elsewhere and I did it once with aluminum grains) I have always laid glass up behind the almost tack free surface coat if using epoxy like this . That coupling coat will be so easy to get air bubbles in it .
But it will not matter for this mold. It will be interesting to see the final mold.
Oh those alignment pins are crazy much better to have round disk with lots of angle on it .the pins will be a pain.
I'm way behind so off I got to each part 2
Cheers Warren
Nice quality mold! Can't wait to see how it turns out.
R&G stuff works really well!! I made tons of molds with the same material from R&G.
=> but you should reinforce the mold with foam stripes that are glassed over AND also add a 45degree layer against torsion. Try to make those reinforcements in a way that you include „legs“ so that you can flip the mold later and it has a stable stand while molding parts.
Great video and well done!!
I would also think that you would have to reinforce the mold so it doesn't deform when you make the second part. That rudder seems heavy and the weight of could deform the mold. I hope not.
That is probably a better mold than the factory used. Looks good!!
Fantastic work Mads. Looking forward to next week's video. I have never done this extent of fiberglass work so this is like a DIY course for me. Take care and have a good week.
Thank you for sharing, love from Sweden👍
Great video Mads! Just signed up to be a Patron on Patreon, I want to support videos like this that show a detailed approach to boat DIY done the right way. Keep it up!
This is why I liked binge watching so much. No cliffhangers. I've been caught up on your vids for awhile how, so I'll have to wait with the rest.
this one was awesome! Excited to see the new rudder.
Mads, probably not a big deal for the pva layer but when spray painting you should be releasing the trigger at the end of a sweep and then rejigger when you do the return sweep. Otherwise you get uneven coverage at the outer edges of your sweep. Also try to keep the spray fan parallel to the piece or you'll get thicker coverage see where the fan is closer. Not a big deal for something like a pva layer but keep in mind if you're ever applying paint (or possibly the gel coat when you build the new rudder!
Awaiting part 2. Video very detailed and a big thumbs up on this one. Hopefully the opening of the existing rudder will allow use of existing metal. Looking forward to the next chapter. Get some rest. 😉
Great video and this technique applies to all sorts of fiberglass parts ..Thanks for sharing!
Great to see your work progressing nicely. Of course my previous suggestion to use plaster would not be useful as you intended to have the mold available for future sailors to use. Good and gracious thought! You could have stopped part way and gotten some sleep though, and it would not have harmed the finished part in any way. Adding some structural members alway helps if you make them flat so that it’s easy to set the mold on your work table without wobbling while you are laying up the part.
Sleep tight!
One of the more exciting videos in a long time!
Pigs ear! My dog used to LOVE getting a pigs ear as a snack! My dog was similar to yours, a Dutch Keeshond.
23:03 We sure did. Awesome times!
Nice work Mads. The instructions are different from how I learned to make molds, but we used polyester resin rather than epoxy. I do suggest that you separate the mold from the rudder before you do the other side. That will make doing the final separation a LOT less suspenseful. I don't know what your instructions for separating the part say, but once you get the wedges in, pouring some water into the gap between the mold and the part helps a lot.
Thank you so much for leaving that comment Todd :) Today I attempted to flip the rudder (heavy) and by accident, the rudder and the mold separated. The instructions specifically said to not separate the mold from the rudder until both halves are done. Reading your comment reassured me that I can still end up with a functional mold :) The mold looked almost perfect on the inside. My parting board must have moved a little bit (
@@SailLife That is good news Mads! It was a wery interesting episode - it is good to know that so far your hard work comes out nice. On the next part: it would be interesting to see how you band the fiberglass into that little whole where you cut board and used epoxy + one screw to hold it in place - I consider that part the most difficult in terms of laying the glass over.
@@SailLife Mads, that is one way to do it. Put the rudder back in the mold, put more plasticene (what we call modelling clay here in the states) into the seam between the rudder and the mold, wax everything and spray with PVA and you will be good to lay up the second half of the mold. Just make sure the rudder is well set back in the mold. That will be the only tricky part.
Before pouring water, compressed air and a slight bump with a rubber mallet should do the trick. It's not that big or overly complicated, is it?
The shift of parting board does not matter because You lay up the other side without it directly to the partingboard mold You already produced.
Don't skimp with playdoh when doing the second side. You do not want to involuntarily infuse resin into Your now loose first moldhalf.
The plot thickens Horatio! Something is rotten in the state of Denmark..
great i look forward to next week thanks
Love having the dogs in the shop, though you are at risk of being up-staged by them!
Fantastic piece of work. At the start I was planning to say, "I wish I'd done my rudder that way" - but it definitely does not look easy. I think the fact is that there is no easy way to re-do a rudder. Everything looks excellent so far and I can't wait until next week to see how it turns out.
Dang it! I wanted to give your channel a little shoutout but I completely forgot. Yeah, I think you're right. There's no easy fix.
Mads, feel free to say, "now, if you want to see how not to do it..."
Cheers.
Just about sailing
I don't need a new rudder yet....but both methods (Paul and Madds) look like a lot of work! I hope mine will last!
Mads, I have boatloads of respect for your tenacious desire to keep pushing forward on this project, and your obsessive desire for perfection.Unfortunately I think the best way you could contribute to the warrior boat owners community is by warning them all about just how poorly their boats are designed and constructed. I truly believe there are only a few individuals in the world today that have the means, skills and determination you possess to try and make steak out of a boat that is poorly designed hamburger. Cheers
I have owned a Warrior 40 from new for 21 years. It was fully completed by the factory and it is in great condition. I suspect Mads's Warrior was a home completion job as things are finished in a different way and I must say I am amazed at the problems he has had.
Sorry Rmwa, according to assman51, you are seriously misinformed. Better sell before everyone finds out. 😜👍✌️
@@clayfarnet970 No matter. Mads is doing a great service to all old boat owners. I have lived on a 41 year old Valiant-40 for over 12 years and have now only sailed little more than 1/2 way around the world. I would have liked to see Mads videos long before having to complete some of the same projects on my own boat. I wonder about the rudders on these old boats. It will be very interesting to see what he finds opening up his own rudder. Maybe it will ease my concerns. I hope.
Sorry the warriors are fine boats, great angus primrose design, every boat has issues. Remember this boat has already sailed round the world so its wasn't all bad! and it's 40 years old! Cheers Warren
What a hell of a work! This looks super cool! *THUMBSUP*
Strongley recommend doing the reinforcements. Foam or wood battens in a grid####pattern. Especially If this is to be shipped to other rudder builds.. 👍
yes ^. It is not so much for strength, but for stiffness, so that the blade doesn't inadvertently come out warped.
Interesting, didn't have a clue how you were going to make the mold, mother of all cliffhangers. Best wishes.
What a hell of a job. But let us hope it pays of!
Wow, so cool! Thank you for sharing all the steps!
Go Mads go.
Great work! I can’t wait to see the results.
Fingers crossed that the mold comes out good. You've become quite adept with fiberglass in general and this was mostly an extension of those skills. I'm optimistic! Cliffhanger is right! Us as well as you! But you only have to wait a day. We have to wait a week.
Nice . I bet it turns out great.
One of the most exciting videos i ever seen , thanks
Yup your doing it right in mold making detail detail detail because what ever you do it will show up in the mould in the final product
Poor jökull almost came tumbling down the stairs :D
Au contraire! He did an AWESOME job doing a stunt descent, beginning with a tail slide and straightening up for a 10/10 finishing fllourish! Loved it! Check it out at 5:18
He needs a nice warm dog bed in the shop.
Sanding starts at 1:15!
Well done Mads, excellent video...and the long hours are appreciated :)
Think u need to build a vacuum system.... a tight seal on and ur vacuum cleaner will work.... peal ply and putty to form a makeshift chamber round.the rudder. Should solve the conformity issue and if done right no air bubbles yay
nice job.. clean and durable.... i am excited to see the result nxt week...
Mads, as always that was a very interesting and informative vlog. I'm sure we're all waiting with bated breath for the finished mold and next week's vlog. Keep up the hard work and pushing forward on your extensive refit of Athena.
Jökull sure seems a little clumsy, but tough too! Anyway, the cost/benefit of getting a little bump while having tons of fun easily comes down on the beneficial side :D On the mold, I long to see what the process of laying glass to make the actual rudder looks like. My dad once bought a bare fiberglass hull that was made with just kids play-doh inside the mold, followed by tons of glass. Seemed simple and effective! I can't remember the surface finish, however. I'm sure whatever your process is, you're gonna work super hard and get rewarded with perfect results in the end. Keep it up!
My dog has trouble on wood stairs when his hair is long - furry paws and low friction surfaces can be slippery ...
I enjoy your channel very much. I feel bad for not raising this before, but why not use something like corcel layers and fibreglass to form the rudder. I had to build a new rudder a few years ago and that method worked out very well and likely much less work than making a mold. Maybe I missed the rational for building it your way.
This is very interesting can't wait till next week …
The lovely dremmel tool with sandpaper attachment will do you well, grasshopper ;)
Hi thanks for an amazing DIY videos. I'm not a fiber glass guy. but from my research I noticed that people use chopped strand mat with light weight to conform to tight corners. not sure if you want to give this a try!
Mads - great attention to detail. I have built many moulds and have never used epoxy resin - always polyester. The main reason is cost, because epoxy is much more expensive. Sure polyester uses a different catalyst system, but that is much better in cold weather because you can control the rate of hardening off. It does smell a lot more than epoxy and requires acetone for clean up (methylated spirits is fine for epoxy), but it is as I say much less expensive. Obviously you can use epoxy to make the parts, but for a mould like the rudder I would have done it in polyester. Just a suggestion.....
Great work, great video. Sunday is complete, thank you.
Great work Mads but see Life on the Mould’s comment below - he has it covered.👍
You take your multitool, take one of the wood saw blades, cut it so it tapers to a 1 cm pad at the end, bend it so it's only 1 cm to the bend (so you create a 1x1cm pad) then glue a 1x1cm patch of sand paper to it (contact cement). And voila, you'll have your sanding implement for nooks. Obviously, the shape and size of the pad can be changed to meet needs, the speed should be medium and above.
Could you elaborate on why you're building a whole new rudder. A little rust is to be expected of stainless when encapsulated and deprived of oxygen but that doesn't mean the structure is compromised. There must be a way to inspect the rudder interior , maybe some exploratory holes that can be fiberglassed over. You can put a camera through a 1/4" hole and see what's inside or at least see if any water comes out of the hole.
If there ever was a like earned... Great work!
Looks awesome!
Hi Mads, most enjoyable series of videos. Just wondering if you take rudder to a specialist non destruction testing laboratory and they can radiograph the rudder and you will get to see an image of the internal metal frame. Me thinks the encapsulated section may be carbon steel not stainless like the shaft. So looking forward to the continued evolution of this project.
Great video and work. Keep the good work up!
Great work mate!!
Mads turns laminating mad. 😜
If you used gelcoat and polyester instead with chop strain matte the wax layer would have been enough, chop strain matte is also way easier to get in to corners without bubbles. I have built a lot of "plugs" and forms from small 6 meters boat halls to tops on trailers etc in that way. I also glass in aluminium for reinforcement if the mold is going to be used a lot.
Great advice from an experienced craftsman
Almost hit the dislike thumb because I have to wait a week to see the results, but good sense prevailed. Thanks Mads, I've never seen a mold being made. Very informative.
Thank you for another fantastic DIY video Mads :)
You should invest in a sand blaster!
Use a dremel to get into tight areas for sanding. They have sanding bits
After watching the Ausey guy life on the mould videos it’s interesting to see it done slightly differently but I expect the results to be all good
Interesting stuff! Pretty good of you to think of the community.
Cement Boat Guy is pretty handy to have around...
17:52 dried/cured pig's ear,...my dogs love that stuff aswell xD.
Hope it's strong enough and you get a good mold m8 👍-up.