At the 2:45 mark you re-insulated w blown in? Is blown in better than batts? I plan on removing/vacuuming my old insulation, air sealing and then laying down batts for a range of R38-42. At the 50 second mark the attic that you show is like mine but with old blown in and not even to the top on the floor joist. I see that there is a board that runs perpendicular, and is close to the roof rafters, is there insulation past that board or no? (Do i need batt insulation on the other side of the board but not blocking the soffit for air flow to my ridge vent).
Im looking to use looseflll insulation in my crawlspace, my Condo has 2 Crawlspaces one for the living/bath/kitchen etc and he other one is just my bedroom. recently i had spray foamers spray the walls and ceiling ( bottom of my floors) of the crawlspace, but the bedroom crawlspace is too tight to spray the ceiling. Would loose fill be a good option for me? The foundation is a concrete slab with the plastic vapour barrier on top.
There are two ways to properly insulate a crawl space. The first and most efficient is by conditioning it. This means laying down a heavy vapor barrier to the crawl space floor, then spray foaming the foundation walls and rim joist. Then you must add supply and return air (please consult your HVAC contractor when doing this). The other option still incudes a vapor barrier, but uses the traditional method of insulating between the floor joists with spray foam or fiberglass batts. We don't recommend using fiberglass.
That's one of the greatest and quickest explanations I've found on RUclips. Question, what if the stove hood vented into that attic area and not out through the roof? Is that typically ok or would that lead to problems?
If you have a stove hood ventiladet to the attic you have a BIG problem!!! That leaves grease all over your attic and rodents and bugs love it, it also becomes a fire hazard and insulation filled with grease have lower insulation value and it may end up saturating your ceiling with grease and leak down into your room and then there isn't really any solution other than to change everything including your ceiling.... Get it to ventilate outside now!
Thanks for the reply. Sheesh, smh. It's been like that since I bought the house. Problem is that I would try to fix it but I have vermiculite insulation up there and don't have the income yet to have it removed safely.
when you remove the old and its now just drywall, curious what it looks like down the road if you have no vapor control besides maybe a ceiling latex paint. although that one B roll did show just that. the cellulose didnt look healthy.
The problem with cellulose (ground up newspaper) is that it degrades over time to dust. At least a percentage of it. Blown in fiberglass is better but is messy...my choice is mineral wool batts as its impervious to many issues albeit more expensive.
they normally dont add them and just spray the decking. yes the home needs to breath but most homes have a horrible blower door score and just leak everywhere. if its tight you need an air exchanger. if you're spraying the roof decking, your roof still needs to breath. furring strips and a metal roof work great.
Short answer is no. You are converting the attic to a conditioned space. The attic will then need to breathe differently. It will need mechanical ventilation. We recommend consulting with the a trusted HVAC professional to help you with that.
@@wallacewoodworks9582 - That is correct. We install a cardboard baffles from the top plate of the wall to the roof deck and then spray foam over to complete the envelope.
Yes and you don't need R40, there is a diminishing return on investment. Air sealing and rockwool will do probably 60% of what you need, and for twice the price you can get 25% better insulation. For quadruple the price you can get 50% better.
At the 2:45 mark you re-insulated w blown in? Is blown in better than batts? I plan on removing/vacuuming my old insulation, air sealing and then laying down batts for a range of R38-42. At the 50 second mark the attic that you show is like mine but with old blown in and not even to the top on the floor joist. I see that there is a board that runs perpendicular, and is close to the roof rafters, is there insulation past that board or no? (Do i need batt insulation on the other side of the board but not blocking the soffit for air flow to my ridge vent).
Where I am, attic insulation is required by the building code to be R40 (about 12" of fiberglass).
Im looking to use looseflll insulation in my crawlspace, my Condo has 2 Crawlspaces one for the living/bath/kitchen etc and he other one is just my bedroom. recently i had spray foamers spray the walls and ceiling ( bottom of my floors) of the crawlspace, but the bedroom crawlspace is too tight to spray the ceiling.
Would loose fill be a good option for me? The foundation is a concrete slab with the plastic vapour barrier on top.
There are two ways to properly insulate a crawl space. The first and most efficient is by conditioning it. This means laying down a heavy vapor barrier to the crawl space floor, then spray foaming the foundation walls and rim joist. Then you must add supply and return air (please consult your HVAC contractor when doing this). The other option still incudes a vapor barrier, but uses the traditional method of insulating between the floor joists with spray foam or fiberglass batts. We don't recommend using fiberglass.
@@lebronfan1222 alright unfortunately the proper ways don't work in my crawlspace
That's one of the greatest and quickest explanations I've found on RUclips. Question, what if the stove hood vented into that attic area and not out through the roof? Is that typically ok or would that lead to problems?
If you have a stove hood ventiladet to the attic you have a BIG problem!!!
That leaves grease all over your attic and rodents and bugs love it, it also becomes a fire hazard and insulation filled with grease have lower insulation value and it may end up saturating your ceiling with grease and leak down into your room and then there isn't really any solution other than to change everything including your ceiling....
Get it to ventilate outside now!
Never! Take care of it asap. Any vent should go above the roof.
It is against code to vent a stove/range hood to your attic. Make sure it is taken out through the roof if possible and has a damper.
Thanks for the reply. Sheesh, smh. It's been like that since I bought the house. Problem is that I would try to fix it but I have vermiculite insulation up there and don't have the income yet to have it removed safely.
when you remove the old and its now just drywall, curious what it looks like down the road if you have no vapor control besides maybe a ceiling latex paint. although that one B roll did show just that. the cellulose didnt look healthy.
The cellulose just changed colors because of air and dust getting to it.
@@lebronfan1222 looked normal color to me. Just flat
when you spray foam the roof line, how do you make sure the airflow is still good?
Airflow is designated by intake vs outtake. Not the decking
Do you want soffit vents and ridgecap if you're planning to condition the attic space and insulate between the rafters?
No sir. It would be best in those scenarios to those areas off.
If you need to remove the attic insulation and then seal any air gaps, do you need a vapor barrier if you are blowing in new insulation?
Those questions depend what climate zone you are in. In Kentucky, you don't need a vapor barrier.
If I have blown cellulose and want to add insulation since my home doesn’t reach temp in the summer, what do you recommend?
Add more inches of blown cellulose on top is the best bet
The problem with cellulose (ground up newspaper) is that it degrades over time to dust.
At least a percentage of it. Blown in fiberglass is better but is messy...my choice is mineral wool batts as its impervious to many issues albeit more expensive.
You sir are an ¡diot Cellulose is king! It has far better benefits than fiberglass!
Does your home need to breathe when you spray foam? Do you put the baffles all the way to the roof peak and spray over them?
they normally dont add them and just spray the decking. yes the home needs to breath but most homes have a horrible blower door score and just leak everywhere. if its tight you need an air exchanger. if you're spraying the roof decking, your roof still needs to breath. furring strips and a metal roof work great.
Short answer is no. You are converting the attic to a conditioned space. The attic will then need to breathe differently. It will need mechanical ventilation. We recommend consulting with the a trusted HVAC professional to help you with that.
So if you spray foam the roof of the attic, you don't need iunsulation at the base of your attic? Did I understand that correctly?
That is correct.
@@owensboroinsulators8019 do you then close up the soffit vents?
@@wallacewoodworks9582 - That is correct. We install a cardboard baffles from the top plate of the wall to the roof deck and then spray foam over to complete the envelope.
Can i use rockwool batting and no insulation blown in?
Yes and you don't need R40, there is a diminishing return on investment. Air sealing and rockwool will do probably 60% of what you need, and for twice the price you can get 25% better insulation. For quadruple the price you can get 50% better.
Do you need baffles in every single rafter
If possible, yes. Ideally you have 50% more air coming in than going out.
Spray foam the underside of roof sheathing and no insurance company will underwrite you a policy!😂