13:45 Mark. You need a Milwaukee m12 installation driver with the offset attachment. That will be a lifesaver for you. DeWalt makes one as well since it look like you are mostly on that platform. Fellow Michigander pontoon builder here. Great videos for new builders, keep up the great content.
My brother in law who's a contractor got me into Dewalt and now is trying to tell me I gotta switch over to Milwaukee!! He always mentions their m12 stuff and their 90 degree tool. I have a 90 degree attachment that works great for some tasks...sometimes it's the only way to get stuff done in tight spots! Thanks for watching the channel, love to know there are more local Michigan folks tuning in!
Great!!! I looked at the weather here in West Michigan for the weekend (highs in the 80s, lows in the mid 60s) and thought "I bet some folks around the midwest are going to be gluing down some vinyl this weekend!! Finally the right conditions to safely glue things down and get the right cure for the adhesive.
Hey long time subscriber , I am so pumped u r local , I talked to u a while ago about strakes on a 26’ Bennington , thank u thank u for all the advise and help man ,
Thanks so much!! I try to present it so that ANYONE can take on this project. The biggest compliment I can get is when someone tells me that my videos gave them the confidence to take on a project and have success with it!
Tom, it’s always a pleasure watching you work and share your insights and experience, especially when I get to watch through breakfast AND two cups of coffee. Thank you! For those of us with mobility issues, are you doing a video on the wheelchair ramp you’ve mentioned in a couple of your videos?
I don’t have anything in store for a detailed video on the ramp I built for that boat, but if I build another I’ll be sure to document it better. It was literally the last thing that I did on that boat and it was the morning it was leaving the stop. Had the aluminum in stock so whipped it up and got it welded together!!
Tom, you know it’s very difficult to plagiarize your ideas if you’re not putting them out on RUclips. Sheesh! Seriously, what I’m most interested in is how far you built it to stick out of the boat. I’m guessing something between 2 and 3’ and 36” wide to accommodate a wheelchair. The actual build will be done by a local fabrication shop cuz I don’t gots no welding equipment no more. ☹️ Then it’ll be off to be clear anodized. 😁
I’m over here giving out all my ideas!!! This ramp was 24” long by 31.5” wide. They wanted it light as possible and plan to tie the boat up tight to the dock to use it.
Awesome video as always Tom. Can you do a double Bimini install video? I would love to get one for my boat and would be interesting to see you install one.
I need to do one sometime, but it’s never been a request by a customer so we haven’t tackled it yet. Pretty straight forward, only complication is if you want to joint the canvas between the two. One of these days I’ll tackle it!!
Does it make any sense to add locktite to any of the connections in the rails or is it overkill? Also, is an 1 1/2(1/4)" enough space to add cleats in the back of the boat? Dount you happen to know the weight limit for that back section? That middle larger area does looks as though someone could lay across the length without that middle piece breaking or bending in. Especially since you had to adjust that crossbar in to account for the motor lift. Lastly, I noticed you mentioned "your seamstress" that makes seat covers. Do you sell the covers or do you recommend the seat covers that PontoonStuff sells? Are they basically the same? PS..Absolutely LOVE your videos. You are by far one of the best creators on RUclips showing your craft. You've made this process, which I never knew was an option for us and our 2012 Avalon, a lot more plausible to DIY. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Pontoonstuff has found a great reference in you sir! Keep it up.
Definitely can't hurt, but it's overkill as I've never seen a boat brand do it from the factory. Just a locking nut of sorts is all I ever see and use on restorations. If I am tight on space I usually install the cleats on the corner caps in the stern at a 45 degree angle. Works well and makes sure that the cleat is easily usable. I am not sure what they rated the weight capacity, but I'm 200 lbs and I can stand on the middle section no problem. It's all aluminum construction and that support bar really beefs the whole system up. We have to have boats on hand to make the seat covers she makes. I've not used the Pontoon Stuff covers, but I've seen them on boats and they seem to do just fine. For the price of them I think they're worth a shot!! Our custom seat covers are usually $1600-$2200 depending on the size and layout of the boat. Ours are completely custom and snap on for a really nice fit. Thank you so much for the kind words. We saw the topic missing from RUclips in terms of a How-To channel so we started filming the projects we do on a regular basis. I hope the channel continues to grow and that we're able to do more fun projects that offer some entertainment, creative ideas for viewers, and plenty of instruction too.
Can I just bring you my boat. Needs same! I’m 70 years old and love my boat. Looking through RUclips for DIY on wrapping. Love this idea but my seats are in good shape but the railing and panels are faded.
I heard you mention that the rails you’re putting together on this boat will sit on top of the deck trim. That got me wondering, why didn’t you install the deck trim already? Thought I’d be patient and wait, until I realized this video is 91 minutes long! An epic TomsToons production! Ok, back to the video, maybe you’ll explain why in the next hour LOL Edit: I might have said this in a previous video, but want to say what an excellent job you do showing and explaining everything you do in these videos. Very detailed!
Tom, Kelly and I enjoy your channel. Have you ever done an inboard to outboard conversion. We just purchased a 2005 sun tracker Regency 22' party barge with a bad 3.0 and aluminum floor. I want to convert it to a 90 Yamaha 4 stroke. We want to leave the engine bay in the boat for storage. Have not seen this done, what are your thoughts on this? Stay well. Toons are 26" love the boat but do not want the 3.0.
You should be able to remove the 3.0 and out drive and have a local welder/fabricator install a bracket for the outboard to hang on. It will likely require reinforcing the transom wall as they’re built differently for an I/O. I’ve seen it done a few times now when folks have reached out via email.
@@CatfishLove I agree. The thing is there are so few I/O pontoons out there...and it tends to be a love/hate thing. The folks who like I/O's LOVE their I/O pontoons and tritoons. Then the outboard folks just want the efficiency and ease of an outboard and want nothing to do with an I/O. It's a goofy dynamic!
My OCD is kicking in. Why wouldn't you line up all the panels in the back so the aluminum plate is flush? You have the 2 sunk in and the long panel along the back with it facing out. All that hardware could have been hidden aft (inside the sun deck. Now flip those outer panels around and post an update.
Boat is already on the water and my customer is extremely happy with the boat. You get to decide which panels face which direction to your liking on these kits. No right or wrong way, just whatever your preference.
Not sure on the sundeck corner. I don’t have that 8’ wide kit at my shop anymore, but will do another one in the future. I know the sundeck is right about 26” deep.
Tom how did you compensate for having the port entry door but not having a starboard entry door? Asking because of my layout have the same thing going on with 24” doors.
I mention it in the video (it's a long with a lot of detail, i know!) but the front corners will have enough play to compensate for the door gap on one side and not the other. That's why I run bolts on every panel on both sides EXCEPT for the front corners. That way I can make up for that space by manipulating the front corners and door. With a stern entry kit you could line up the panel forward of the door on each side making the front completely square, and allow for the difference to be carried to the rear starboard panel because the way that integrates as a door wouldn't matter if there's a half inch one way or the other.
@@matthewreed1781 Great! I've got a stern entry video I'm working on editing right now too. It's a shorter version than this one just hitting the key points, but hopefully it'll help you too! I'm trying to get it posted this weekend.
I don’t always love posting 90 minute long videos, but there is a lot to cover and I wanted it to be as detailed as possible. Started with over 3 hours of raw footage!!!!
13:45 Mark. You need a Milwaukee m12 installation driver with the offset attachment. That will be a lifesaver for you. DeWalt makes one as well since it look like you are mostly on that platform. Fellow Michigander pontoon builder here. Great videos for new builders, keep up the great content.
My brother in law who's a contractor got me into Dewalt and now is trying to tell me I gotta switch over to Milwaukee!! He always mentions their m12 stuff and their 90 degree tool. I have a 90 degree attachment that works great for some tasks...sometimes it's the only way to get stuff done in tight spots! Thanks for watching the channel, love to know there are more local Michigan folks tuning in!
Great job. Thanks for the tips
Happy to help! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!!
Awesome! Some great tips and tricks there. New woven vinyl arrived last night. It's go time today!
Great!!! I looked at the weather here in West Michigan for the weekend (highs in the 80s, lows in the mid 60s) and thought "I bet some folks around the midwest are going to be gluing down some vinyl this weekend!! Finally the right conditions to safely glue things down and get the right cure for the adhesive.
Hey long time subscriber , I am so pumped u r local , I talked to u a while ago about strakes on a 26’ Bennington , thank u thank u for all the advise and help man ,
Happy to help!! And thanks for tuning into the channel
You bet! 26 degrees here today which is about 80+ I think on your side. Gunna be a stunner of a day!! Enjoy sir
There you go with that Celsius talk again 😂 Have a great day and get lots done!!
Excellent video the detail that one would need to put one of these on. You ROCK!!
Thanks so much!! I try to present it so that ANYONE can take on this project. The biggest compliment I can get is when someone tells me that my videos gave them the confidence to take on a project and have success with it!
Do you have a layout or is there documents that show the feet from rail to door and doors to back so that I know which size to order.
If you email Pontoon Stuff’s customer service they can send you more detailed info and diagrams to help choose!
www.pontoonstuff.com/tomstoons
Tom, it’s always a pleasure watching you work and share your insights and experience, especially when I get to watch through breakfast AND two cups of coffee. Thank you!
For those of us with mobility issues, are you doing a video on the wheelchair ramp you’ve mentioned in a couple of your videos?
I don’t have anything in store for a detailed video on the ramp I built for that boat, but if I build another I’ll be sure to document it better. It was literally the last thing that I did on that boat and it was the morning it was leaving the stop. Had the aluminum in stock so whipped it up and got it welded together!!
Tom, you know it’s very difficult to plagiarize your ideas if you’re not putting them out on RUclips. Sheesh!
Seriously, what I’m most interested in is how far you built it to stick out of the boat. I’m guessing something between 2 and 3’ and 36” wide to accommodate a wheelchair. The actual build will be done by a local fabrication shop cuz I don’t gots no welding equipment no more. ☹️ Then it’ll be off to be clear anodized. 😁
I’m over here giving out all my ideas!!! This ramp was 24” long by 31.5” wide. They wanted it light as possible and plan to tie the boat up tight to the dock to use it.
Awesome video as always Tom. Can you do a double Bimini install video? I would love to get one for my boat and would be interesting to see you install one.
I need to do one sometime, but it’s never been a request by a customer so we haven’t tackled it yet. Pretty straight forward, only complication is if you want to joint the canvas between the two. One of these days I’ll tackle it!!
Does it make any sense to add locktite to any of the connections in the rails or is it overkill? Also, is an 1 1/2(1/4)" enough space to add cleats in the back of the boat? Dount you happen to know the weight limit for that back section? That middle larger area does looks as though someone could lay across the length without that middle piece breaking or bending in. Especially since you had to adjust that crossbar in to account for the motor lift. Lastly, I noticed you mentioned "your seamstress" that makes seat covers. Do you sell the covers or do you recommend the seat covers that PontoonStuff sells? Are they basically the same? PS..Absolutely LOVE your videos. You are by far one of the best creators on RUclips showing your craft. You've made this process, which I never knew was an option for us and our 2012 Avalon, a lot more plausible to DIY. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Pontoonstuff has found a great reference in you sir! Keep it up.
Definitely can't hurt, but it's overkill as I've never seen a boat brand do it from the factory. Just a locking nut of sorts is all I ever see and use on restorations. If I am tight on space I usually install the cleats on the corner caps in the stern at a 45 degree angle. Works well and makes sure that the cleat is easily usable. I am not sure what they rated the weight capacity, but I'm 200 lbs and I can stand on the middle section no problem. It's all aluminum construction and that support bar really beefs the whole system up. We have to have boats on hand to make the seat covers she makes. I've not used the Pontoon Stuff covers, but I've seen them on boats and they seem to do just fine. For the price of them I think they're worth a shot!! Our custom seat covers are usually $1600-$2200 depending on the size and layout of the boat. Ours are completely custom and snap on for a really nice fit.
Thank you so much for the kind words. We saw the topic missing from RUclips in terms of a How-To channel so we started filming the projects we do on a regular basis. I hope the channel continues to grow and that we're able to do more fun projects that offer some entertainment, creative ideas for viewers, and plenty of instruction too.
Can I just bring you my boat. Needs same! I’m 70 years old and love my boat. Looking through RUclips for DIY on wrapping. Love this idea but my seats are in good shape but the railing and panels are faded.
That’s what we do at Tom’s Toons. If you can get your boat to us here in Grand Rapids, Michigan then we can make it look new again!
I heard you mention that the rails you’re putting together on this boat will sit on top of the deck trim. That got me wondering, why didn’t you install the deck trim already? Thought I’d be patient and wait, until I realized this video is 91 minutes long! An epic TomsToons production! Ok, back to the video, maybe you’ll explain why in the next hour LOL
Edit: I might have said this in a previous video, but want to say what an excellent job you do showing and explaining everything you do in these videos. Very detailed!
Thank you for the kind words!!
Yes, I DEFINITELY installed the deck trim before securing anything down, no other way around it!!
How do you order just one box for gas tank?
To my knowledge they're only selling the kits at the moment. I'm not sure if/when they'll be offering parts and pieces of the railings.
Tom, Kelly and I enjoy your channel. Have you ever done an inboard to outboard conversion. We just purchased a 2005 sun tracker Regency 22' party barge with a bad 3.0 and aluminum floor. I want to convert it to a 90 Yamaha 4 stroke. We want to leave the engine bay in the boat for storage. Have not seen this done, what are your thoughts on this? Stay well. Toons are 26" love the boat but do not want the 3.0.
You should be able to remove the 3.0 and out drive and have a local welder/fabricator install a bracket for the outboard to hang on. It will likely require reinforcing the transom wall as they’re built differently for an I/O. I’ve seen it done a few times now when folks have reached out via email.
@@tomspontoons Thanks for the reply Tom. Can't wait to see you do one. It would make for a good series of videos.
@@CatfishLove I agree. The thing is there are so few I/O pontoons out there...and it tends to be a love/hate thing. The folks who like I/O's LOVE their I/O pontoons and tritoons. Then the outboard folks just want the efficiency and ease of an outboard and want nothing to do with an I/O. It's a goofy dynamic!
My OCD is kicking in. Why wouldn't you line up all the panels in the back so the aluminum plate is flush? You have the 2 sunk in and the long panel along the back with it facing out. All that hardware could have been hidden aft (inside the sun deck.
Now flip those outer panels around and post an update.
Boat is already on the water and my customer is extremely happy with the boat. You get to decide which panels face which direction to your liking on these kits. No right or wrong way, just whatever your preference.
Did I miss something, do they not come with the spacer to get rail off deck?
They do!! 1:01:30 in the video I cover the risers. LOL, it’s a long video with a lot of info to listen to!!
Tom, what are the dimensions of the interior radius and exterior radius of the 30" corners?
Tom, also what are the interior radius and exterior radius dimensions of the sundeck corner?
They’re a 32” by 32” footprint.
Not sure on the sundeck corner. I don’t have that 8’ wide kit at my shop anymore, but will do another one in the future. I know the sundeck is right about 26” deep.
Tom how did you compensate for having the port entry door but not having a starboard entry door? Asking because of my layout have the same thing going on with 24” doors.
I mention it in the video (it's a long with a lot of detail, i know!) but the front corners will have enough play to compensate for the door gap on one side and not the other. That's why I run bolts on every panel on both sides EXCEPT for the front corners. That way I can make up for that space by manipulating the front corners and door. With a stern entry kit you could line up the panel forward of the door on each side making the front completely square, and allow for the difference to be carried to the rear starboard panel because the way that integrates as a door wouldn't matter if there's a half inch one way or the other.
Was watching again and just saw where you mentioned it. They did give me that extra 5” for the stern entry and was thinking the same you mentioned :)
@@matthewreed1781 Great! I've got a stern entry video I'm working on editing right now too. It's a shorter version than this one just hitting the key points, but hopefully it'll help you too! I'm trying to get it posted this weekend.
What happened to your forearm? Did it burned really badly?
Nope, not sure what you were seeing? Just a few days ago I got a nice burn from a hot drill bit right on my bison tattoo though!
14 minutes since posted and already 3 likes 👍
I don’t always love posting 90 minute long videos, but there is a lot to cover and I wanted it to be as detailed as possible. Started with over 3 hours of raw footage!!!!
Holy Smokes! 3 hours of raw footage!
Yes, it’s serious!
@@tomspontoons 😄