Hi Paul, mission accomplished. My wife went absolutely "acorn" nuts!! From one Canuck to another, thanks for the love and keep up the great videos. Colin
Thanks for the mid week episodes. The RUclips channels I like to watch generally put out their shows on the weekends, so interesting content tends to peter out during the week. 🙂
I used to work in a sign and graphic shop for many years and we had two tricks for aligning complex vinyl decals. 1. We used what's called transfer film. Basically a mildly sticky and translucent material you stick on the top of the decal. It allows you to see through it to align it, and for cut out vinyl, it keeps the shapes all in perfect orientation off the plotter. 2. We also used an application fluid. Basically just water with a drop of soap. It lets the decal float on the surface and when you get it just right, you can squeegee the fluid out. Used the same process for applying window tint. Never tried Windex. It was banned in the shop because it's bad for window tint! Need tint safe window cleaner.
I did exactly the same thing but probably half a world away in Australia. Windex has Metholated Spirits in it and would be nasty for flame polished acrylic edges too.
@@paulbrodie i did signs for 35 years...just use any dishwashing soap in your water... and we used " Actual " application fluids too ( they do work great too )... you can get bubbles out easy too if it is wet...and move it if needed... the transfer tape tape comes in Clear or a Paper version with different grades of tack... it is also great for protecting surfaces when fabricating or using to mark your layouts Windex was a common decal applicator i heard about before i got into signs ( we heard or used it on our Dirt bike decals )... back in 80's i recall it being passed around...lol I wouldn't recommend it as simple soapy water is cheap and plentiful... put some in a spray bottle and use as much ( or little ) as you prefer.... and get some good squeege's applicator pads for vinyl application larger signs we used window squeege's to work faster...
Another option to make one-off fiberglass parts: Tape / seal off your protected parts on the frame. Then use water-based art clay -- the cheap stuff from the art store to sculpt your shape. Get the firmer of the clays. When you go home at night, just cover it with a damp towel (and plastic) so it doesn't dry out. Get it to a shape you like. Then use Ultracal60 (gypsum in a 50lb bag and cheap!) as it has a minimal shrinkage factor and mix up a batch to make a mold of the clay part. It will pull moisture from the clay but so be it. Sometimes because of drafts, you need to do a multi-part mold so plan accordingly. Use burlap (instead of fiberglass) as the gypsum absorbs into the weave easier. Add in wood or popsicle sticks for bridging material. Once the Ultracal kicks (it gets warm but not as hot as fiberglass) --- you can pull the part in a few hours. Let it air dry for a few days. Cleanup the mold (or multiple mold parts) and use rattle can paint to seal. Sand and polish as desired. Then do your wax, wax and more wax and release agent before you do your fiberglass part. I'd done dozens of one-off Ducati parts with this method as well as numerous vintage racecar panels for Pebble Beach, vintage racing, Bonneville and SEMA showcars. Usually I can get about 5-7 parts (like big Ducati side fairing panels) with this method before the gypsum mold needs to be repaired or retired. Your mileage may vary from mine. But it is a good and fast method if you are good at sculpting directly into a clay media. (I still like using plasticine for master modeling for larger volume production molds but it is insanely priced in comparison to art shop clay.) note: I don't like the oil-based art shop clays as they don't interact well at times with the Ultracal60 and the oil seeps into your gypsum mold and causes problems later with your resin systems.
I love this method of creating a skeleton for the composite work. I've never seen it done this way. Very neat. Something I've done myself that I've also never seen done is to use a stretchy fabric like Lycra to stretch over form as the first layer. Coat it with resin and it provides a rock solid base for the mat. I don't think it would have worked for this shape though, that pinch where the flat seat bumps up to the tail would have been a show stopper. The masking tape is perfect.
Have used a balsa wood framework, then using cyanoacrylic glue to glue on surfacing mat to the frame. I used epoxy to stiffen the mat, then used polyester laminating resin to build up the thickness. I made two small speaker cabs that way.
@@bradley3549 I didn’t know how to do it the right way, so I did what I could. Note that cyanoacrylate glue reacts with surfacing veil to grab really good. I found it bonded in about thirty seconds. Then, the balsa wood gets encapsulated in the fiberglass, so it adds a lot more strength than you might think. Finally - if you use “the stink” - the non-epoxy kind - there are several species of it. I liked to use the Isophthalic stuff, as it’s a fair bit stronger than the usual kind at a modest increase in cost.
@@dennisyoung4631 It's a smell you don't soon forget. Just you talking about it made my nose twinge and it's been at least 15 years since I've done any fiberglass work!
Hi Paul …this just reminded me of how John Britten made the fairing and tank shapes on his V1000 …I noticed you have a poster of that bike hanging on the wall of your shop ….just so look forward to your videos each week regards from Australia
That's a really interesting method, thanks. Much more elegant than the common approach of covering the area with cling film / saran wrap, then slopping mat and resin on it.
Boy, that takes me back... Had a little glass fibre company for a few years back in the '80s. A brilliantly versatile material, but foul to work with. It was a day for celebration when cash flow difficulties put us out of business... Thanks, Paul.
absolutly fascinating! I have been looking for a seat for my Rickman, but now you have given me an idea. Thanks, cant wait to see the rest of the videos!
You have to open a child-proof product, you have to push the top down with your left hand while standing on your right foot and with your left leg crossed over your knee! Works for me every time!
I’ve been trying to do this on one of my old bikes and tried everything from wood to coat hangers, I’m so glad I came across your video thank you, now I can do it the right easy way
That was made by my friend Mike Freda. He has a RUclips channel (his name) and an episode showing how he made that lamp. It has an Excelsior cylinder head...
Hello Paul, I worked at a coach painters and then paint shop far back in the seventies, I was aquatinted with a second generation sign writer of great skill. William Barnes. He demonstrated the trick of applying simply soapy water to the front of a truck which he then applied a very large sticker to. ( thirty six inches across) Once aligned, he used a soft spreader to remove the excess water and in turn removing any bubbles. Once dry the adhesive acts to fix the sticker . It seemed counter intuitive at the time, to me, but it worked perfectly. Thank you for the interesting videos. Regards Kevin.
I learn a bunch of things every time I watch one of your videos. Can't really miss any. Never seen before a way like this to make a mould, it's very interesting. Cheers!
knowing that you don't like dirty hands, it was kind of funny seeing you standing there, all fuzzy fingers at the end of the video, you could see the look in your eyes of wanting to rip the gloves off! lol great stuff, I know on doing wraps on dirt race cars its like one huge decal, we use soapy water under the wrap, to alllow us to adjust it a bit I have heard of using windex, but in my experience it affects the adhesion of the vinyl or decal, and causes air pockets so it's soapy water for us... love your pan pattern you made it's tough watching you, the perfectionist, use hot glue...lol but it works so go for it! awesome job!
Yup. Well said Colin (show this to your wife too! Lol!). I watched the decal video and saw your "one chance only" method and thought, nah, not for me! I have a bucket of tepid water with some dish soap in it. Dip the decal in, apply, squeegee any bubbles out of it, then slide it around until it's where it's meant to be. Don't like it? Move it up a bit to see if it's better... nope... slide it back down again, bingo - you're there! This is especially good on tank decals where a level decal isn't always the goal - you have to stand back and look at it first!
I too think sharpie should sponsor you. Last summer after watching many of your videos I zoomed In to discover exactly the model you use and immediately bought a box. Love how much better it is to locate features with a fine tip red sharpie. Send this to sharpie and show them why they need to sponsor you….. 👍👍😎👍👍 Thanks for the fiberglass tips. I need to try it sometime.
Hi Paul . A big thank you.. I'm building a Trials Cub and your channel is an inspiration.. Your calm and thoughtful attention to detail is what makes every video great
Aluminum welding rod and hot glue probably wouldn’t have been where I started out for this, but it sure did work well. Once again you have amazed me. 👍✌️
Fortuitous synchronicity! I've been thinking a lot about making a fibreglass seat add on to my son's trials bike the last couple of weeks to make it more like an mx bike because he's a bit intimidated by learning to ride it while standing.
The uv light tip makes a lot of sense. I’ve been restoring a 1963 Vespa in india and the body filler (bondo) was starting to cure in under a minute. I didn’t click that the Indian sun was likely the cause of the accelerated reaction.
Nice work I c a lot of guys using some sort of foam to get the shape the late great John Britten ( Britten V twin ) used that wire method and glue to make the mould for that famous machine
Hi Paul, as an old body & fender guy, who has put on countless "wood-grain" decals , and other type's, on freshly painted automobile's. When putting on such decals, you can use Windex or some plain water (provided it's a solid color, and the sun can't get through the decal) with dish soap. Approx. two to three TABLE-Spoons per gal. How to tell if you have enough soap? Using a sponge, ringing wet, (or as you feel comfortable working with) coat the surface where you wish to apply the decal, if you can't tell that the water has soap in it, add a little more. Now to get very tribal on just how to spread-out the Decal, to remove air-pocket's. The Decal is generally made of a soft plastic / some a soft vinyl. (Get ready for the incoming arrows,) DO NOT USE A PLASTIC SQUEEGEE, they are too hard, and will scratch the Decal. Use a (softest you can find) rubber squeegee only. Hint a professional small (as in less than 6" in. wide) window washer squeegee will work just fine. Also see if an autobody supply store still carry the small (as in 2" in. wide x 3.5" in. long, X 1/8" in. thick approx.) rubber squeegee's. Don't use one that has been sitting around for like ten year's that will be too hard. If when putting on the decal, and you have a air-pocket you can't get out, use a sewing needle to put the smallest hole possible, to let the air out. This is another reason to use soapy water. It aids in letting the air-pocket lay-down nice and flat, FYI. FYI = For Your Information. Another TIP ref window glass tinting, don't use "city-water" (that has chlorine in it,) use "DISSTILLED WATER ONLY." You can add soap, no problem. The reason is, you don't always get out / remove all the water. You may have seen window tinting that has a lot of air-pockets / bubbles, or rings like under the tinting. That's the result of the water/chlorine evaporating, i.e., no place for the chlorine to go.
I have worked with fiberglass quite a bit through the years. I made a complete set of molds for my 87 Rz350, plus the parts. Everything, from the main panels, to the mud guards, chainguard, and even the airbox. You could also use pour in place foam to make a block of the approximate dimensions, and then carve it to shape, then cover it to make your plug.
Dislike Windex as an application medium, recommend Johnsons baby shampoo in water for most vinyl glues... I applied vinyl for a job for a few years, that recommendation comes from the vinyl supplier ;-) Loving this series, Paul!
Thank u so much, i must repair or invent a seat for a '92 Yamaha Jog, and although i can find new seats, they have a ridiculous price where i live, only reasonable solution is this, i'm not gonna pay more than the bike itself for a seat
Nice one Paul & Mitch. Fibreglassing is something I've never done. Brother-in-law is an expert though. He repairs gliders and has made Kayaks in the past.
Hi Paul & Mitch, Great work, you two! Your demo will make it much easier if I have to do some fiberglass work. Tried it about 60 years ago, and really botched it. Looking forward to the next steps! (as always)
Hello Paul, Mitch. As always, thank you. RE Decals - in my grasp of US English, and based on a childhood of plastic modeling, if you have to peel it, and the thing is self-adhesive, then it's a sticker or peel & stick. If it has water-activated adhesive, then it is a decal, as in "water slide decal" and, decal is actually a shortening of "decalcomania" which is an English adoption of a french word, which I will avoid trying to spell, lest I offend your Eastern neighbors. Regarding 'glass technique... a good friend of mine just bought 50 lbs. of Chavant clay, which I understand is very good for pulling molds from. Perhaps some day, I'll have to borrow some from him.
17:47 - No, it isn't crude compared w/ some of the RUclips how-to videos I've seen... This is a lost art and needs to be preserved. Beautiful work as always..... Keep up the great work guys, awesome video. Thank you... 😁
Guess that's where computer graphics 'wire frame' models came from? That came out real nice shape. Interesting about UV and resins, I didn't know that even though I worked with fibreglass for a few years. (or if I did ever know I've forgotten it)
Hi Paul, Henry here from the UK! Thanks for all your videos, I have really been enjoying watching them. I’ve been in the process of building a trials cub since I was 14 years old, ten years from starting I’m finally in the process of putting my engine back together. I’m intrigued on how you have managed to get your crankcases so nice. Could you give some more detail on finishing the cases/outer covers and how you have managed to blend all the edges? I would love to do the same with my cases. Thanks very much, Henry
Hi Henry in the UK! Thanks for liking our videos. The cases are all finished by hand. No power tools. First, filing. That's how it gets to be smooth, even. Then 80 grit emery, all over. Sore fingers. 180 grit, 320, coarse scothbrite, fine scotchbrite, then Solvol Autosol metal polish. There's a look you get from that. It's not perfect, but it's an appealing look that is very even.
I've done similar but different things to produce a male plug that I then use to make a plaster of paris mold off of that is used as a female mold. Makes for a nicer hand lay up end product with a nice exterior that you can minimize resin percentage in.
I’ve used the wax from a toilet bowl gasket when I’ve done fiberglass - that, and the toilet stuff with added wax so it’s firmer. You warm things a bit when you’re done and the workpiece comes right out or off. I’ve tried doing it “the right way” with PVA and parting wax, and found it really aggravating with the plug molds I was doing. The wax stuff is *loads* easier.
@@VyantQuijt I used Johnson paste wax. Seems to work just fine both times I used it. I did spray paint the plaster when making the part before waxing. I waxed the plug prior to pouring the plaster so it would come off.
I also have a red sharpie in my shirt pocket at all times. Paul have you ever marked a finger and then use a saw or grinder and done a double take thinking you have cut yourself? I use a fine aluminium mesh over the frame work and bondo directly onto that. Being soft aluminium it's easy to cut and forms 3d shapes too.
I prefer brass rod because it's stiffer and holds a shape better than copper and it solders easily but both materials are better than hotglue. If the fiberglass resin did happen to heat up, it won't melt solder but it might melt the glue.
You can use a fabric to start your shape instead of tape.... stretch it over and attach it with your glue gun..or staples if wood frame is used...then resin it like cloth....you can put the tape or any other drip material too ( stretch film or something to stop the drips ) under the cloth.. go to a fabric store for selection... use a good absorbent cloth...thick or thin as you like... also can chose one with some patterns 🤣
Hi Paul, mission accomplished. My wife went absolutely "acorn" nuts!!
From one Canuck to another, thanks for the love and keep up the great videos. Colin
Colin, sometimes you do get what you ask for...
@@paulbrodie Yeah, sometimes.
Just sayin’. I think I’m gonna leave my wife out of this! Good stuff, guys.
Your combination of machining, fabricating, art, camera work, editing, humor, and style make for unique and great videos. Thanks for the treat.
Thank you Larry. We are still having fun too!
"He was in the fumes for a long time" Priceless Paul
Sounds like he was workin’ with *The Stink!*
I learned a LOT from George.
Love the music. I wish I had seen this before I made my fiberglass pan.
Nice Job Paul. Your channel has a very comfortable feel to it. Thanks for taking the time!
Thanks for watching!
Love the lamp made from an Excelsior head
Mike Freda. Check his videos. He has an episode on making that lamp.
WAHOOOOOO......VERRY GOOD JOB PAUL
Thank you.
Much love from morocco SIR!!
Your work is like à gift from god.......thank you for sharing your art with us❤❤❤
Discovered your feed today. Exactly what I have been looking for as I customize my 1989 FZR 600. Excellent stuff!
Thank you Mr. Delica. Welcome to our channel....
Ah , I love the smell of fiberglass in the morning .
I love the “orange Hammer approach” instead of actually determining the bending angle 😎
Thanks for the mid week episodes. The RUclips channels I like to watch generally put out their shows on the weekends, so interesting content tends to peter out during the week. 🙂
Thank you Stuart.
I love the smell of resin in the morning ... one thing I would like to add for when working with that fiber matt, keep ur skin covered!
I was wearing gloves... Safety Third!
I'm glad you added the step on the seat. Clearly you will need it when you open the throttle to that brutal 200cc motor.
When the seat is upholstered, you will not know there is a step in the seat pan. But, you are correct about the power..
You are not only creative you also have a ton of patience. 👍
I did somehow learn to have patience. Thanks for watching.
Could watch you videos all day! True Craftsman!!! Love It Thanks Paul & Mitch
Thank you.
Wire and tape. What a great way to make a complex shape. I think I'll try it
Go for it.
The grease proof paper on the bench, gold, can’t believe I have never seen it before, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching.
I used to work in a sign and graphic shop for many years and we had two tricks for aligning complex vinyl decals.
1. We used what's called transfer film. Basically a mildly sticky and translucent material you stick on the top of the decal. It allows you to see through it to align it, and for cut out vinyl, it keeps the shapes all in perfect orientation off the plotter.
2. We also used an application fluid. Basically just water with a drop of soap. It lets the decal float on the surface and when you get it just right, you can squeegee the fluid out. Used the same process for applying window tint. Never tried Windex. It was banned in the shop because it's bad for window tint! Need tint safe window cleaner.
I have heard about mild soapy water for decal placement.
I did exactly the same thing but probably half a world away in Australia. Windex has Metholated Spirits in it and would be nasty for flame polished acrylic edges too.
@@paulbrodie
i did signs for 35 years...just use any dishwashing soap in your water... and we used " Actual " application fluids too ( they do work great too )...
you can get bubbles out easy too if it is wet...and move it if needed...
the transfer tape tape comes in Clear or a Paper version with different grades of tack... it is also great for protecting surfaces when fabricating or using to mark your layouts
Windex was a common decal applicator i heard about before i got into signs ( we heard or used it on our Dirt bike decals )... back in 80's i recall it being passed around...lol
I wouldn't recommend it as simple soapy water is cheap and plentiful...
put some in a spray bottle and use as much ( or little ) as you prefer....
and get some good squeege's
applicator pads for vinyl application
larger signs we used window squeege's to work faster...
@@garymallard4699 Thanks Gary.
@@paulbrodie
Thanks for all you do too..👍
I knew this was you when I saw the title. Seems you mentioned you were going to do this. 😃
Yes, it was mentioned.
Another much needed episode!!!! Timing is everything!! Thank you Paul!
Thanks Glen.
Paul how couldn't l like your work once again awesome, and thank you .
Thanks Darren.
Another option to make one-off fiberglass parts: Tape / seal off your protected parts on the frame. Then use water-based art clay -- the cheap stuff from the art store to sculpt your shape. Get the firmer of the clays. When you go home at night, just cover it with a damp towel (and plastic) so it doesn't dry out. Get it to a shape you like. Then use Ultracal60 (gypsum in a 50lb bag and cheap!) as it has a minimal shrinkage factor and mix up a batch to make a mold of the clay part. It will pull moisture from the clay but so be it. Sometimes because of drafts, you need to do a multi-part mold so plan accordingly. Use burlap (instead of fiberglass) as the gypsum absorbs into the weave easier. Add in wood or popsicle sticks for bridging material. Once the Ultracal kicks (it gets warm but not as hot as fiberglass) --- you can pull the part in a few hours. Let it air dry for a few days. Cleanup the mold (or multiple mold parts) and use rattle can paint to seal. Sand and polish as desired. Then do your wax, wax and more wax and release agent before you do your fiberglass part. I'd done dozens of one-off Ducati parts with this method as well as numerous vintage racecar panels for Pebble Beach, vintage racing, Bonneville and SEMA showcars. Usually I can get about 5-7 parts (like big Ducati side fairing panels) with this method before the gypsum mold needs to be repaired or retired. Your mileage may vary from mine. But it is a good and fast method if you are good at sculpting directly into a clay media. (I still like using plasticine for master modeling for larger volume production molds but it is insanely priced in comparison to art shop clay.) note: I don't like the oil-based art shop clays as they don't interact well at times with the Ultracal60 and the oil seeps into your gypsum mold and causes problems later with your resin systems.
Mark, thanks for watching and commenting.
Brilliant. That was just brilliant.
Thank you Raymond.
I love this method of creating a skeleton for the composite work. I've never seen it done this way. Very neat.
Something I've done myself that I've also never seen done is to use a stretchy fabric like Lycra to stretch over form as the first layer. Coat it with resin and it provides a rock solid base for the mat. I don't think it would have worked for this shape though, that pinch where the flat seat bumps up to the tail would have been a show stopper. The masking tape is perfect.
Have used a balsa wood framework, then using cyanoacrylic glue to glue on surfacing mat to the frame. I used epoxy to stiffen the mat, then used polyester laminating resin to build up the thickness. I made two small speaker cabs that way.
Thanks Bradley.
@@dennisyoung4631 That's a great idea too. I really like that.
@@bradley3549 I didn’t know how to do it the right way, so I did what I could.
Note that cyanoacrylate glue reacts with surfacing veil to grab really good. I found it bonded in about thirty seconds. Then, the balsa wood gets encapsulated in the fiberglass, so it adds a lot more strength than you might think.
Finally - if you use “the stink” - the non-epoxy kind - there are several species of it. I liked to use the Isophthalic stuff, as it’s a fair bit stronger than the usual kind at a modest increase in cost.
@@dennisyoung4631 It's a smell you don't soon forget. Just you talking about it made my nose twinge and it's been at least 15 years since I've done any fiberglass work!
Hi Paul …this just reminded me of how John Britten made the fairing and tank shapes on his V1000 …I noticed you have a poster of that bike hanging on the wall of your shop ….just so look forward to your videos each week regards from Australia
Thanks Glenn. John Britten is one of my heroes :)
Your videos are so therapeutic.
Well, that's a very nice compliment. Thank you!
Absolutely fantastic!
Thanks Patrick!
Love to see the follow up steps after this to the finished job Paul if you’re looking for content.
Thanks really learnt something.
Next is the seat base, but first I have to finish the mold. Please be patient.
Please continue with this process of building a seat frame.
Oh yes, that is the plan!
I feel itchy just watching. 😎
I don't get itchy from fibreglass. I know not everyone is so lucky.
Great work Paul. I remember watching John Britten using this technique to develop the bodywork on his V1000.
Thanks Michael. John Britten is one of my heroes!
Nice job Paul, a good instructional with great video - thanks Mitch.
Very welcome. Thanks for watching.
looks good well done
That's a really interesting method, thanks. Much more elegant than the common approach of covering the area with cling film / saran wrap, then slopping mat and resin on it.
Gracias paul
And thank you for watching! :)
Boy, that takes me back... Had a little glass fibre company for a few years back in the '80s. A brilliantly versatile material, but foul to work with. It was a day for celebration when cash flow difficulties put us out of business... Thanks, Paul.
I like making parts out of fibreglass, the smell is not so bad if I only do a little now and then.
absolutly fascinating! I have been looking for a seat for my Rickman, but now you have given me an idea. Thanks, cant wait to see the rest of the videos!
Sounds like there might be a custom seat base for your Rickman in the future!
You have to open a child-proof product, you have to push the top down with your left hand while standing on your right foot and with your left leg crossed over your knee! Works for me every time!
Yes, while muttering a strange chant in (pick strange language) all the while.
I wish I'd known that before the video.
I’ve been trying to do this on one of my old bikes and tried everything from wood to coat hangers, I’m so glad I came across your video thank you, now I can do it the right easy way
That was so interesting to watch! Thanks so much for putting this into video Paul & Mitch!
Mathis, thanks for watching!
What a beautiful lamp at 1:35...
yes, it's very cool indeed!
That was made by my friend Mike Freda. He has a RUclips channel (his name) and an episode showing how he made that lamp. It has an Excelsior cylinder head...
Glad people noticed! It sure looks at home in Paul's shop!
@@MikeFreda It's perfect.
And another one of you talents 👍👌
Thanks Chris. I do a little bit of a bunch of stuff.
Sharpie! I was in awe of your Moore&Wright square in the shot.
I bought my Moore and Wright combination set when I was 18 working in a machine shop.
WOW! Just like magic, the steel reinforcing bar simply disappears. thanks for leaving us out of the loop paul.
What can I say? I would have to watch the video again to understand what you are talking about...
@@paulbrodie I suggest you watch it.
Love your work and the channel. Great Job Paul & Mitch!
Much appreciated! Thank you Brian.
I've done a bit of this work, The "Male Mold" as you called it, is also sometimes known as THE PLUG.......
Yes, correct.
Hello Paul, I worked at a coach painters and then paint shop far back in the seventies, I was aquatinted with a second generation sign writer of great skill. William Barnes.
He demonstrated the trick of applying simply soapy water to the front of a truck which he then applied a very large sticker to. ( thirty six inches across) Once aligned, he used a soft spreader to remove the excess water and in turn removing any bubbles. Once dry the adhesive acts to fix the sticker .
It seemed counter intuitive at the time, to me, but it worked perfectly.
Thank you for the interesting videos.
Regards Kevin.
Thanks Kevin. You comments are all correct. I'd be doing it that way with large decals.
I learn a bunch of things every time I watch one of your videos. Can't really miss any. Never seen before a way like this to make a mould, it's very interesting. Cheers!
Awesome, thank you!
@@paulbrodie Thanks to you.
knowing that you don't like dirty hands, it was kind of funny seeing you standing there, all fuzzy fingers at the end of the video, you could see the look in your eyes of wanting to rip the gloves off! lol great stuff, I know on doing wraps on dirt race cars its like one huge decal, we use soapy water under the wrap, to alllow us to adjust it a bit I have heard of using windex, but in my experience it affects the adhesion of the vinyl or decal, and causes air pockets so it's soapy water for us... love your pan pattern you made it's tough watching you, the perfectionist, use hot glue...lol but it works so go for it! awesome job!
Thanks Mitch. Appreciate your comments :)
Very good tutorial there Paul and Mitch, thanks for sharing.
Thank you David.
Yup. Well said Colin (show this to your wife too! Lol!). I watched the decal video and saw your "one chance only" method and thought, nah, not for me! I have a bucket of tepid water with some dish soap in it. Dip the decal in, apply, squeegee any bubbles out of it, then slide it around until it's where it's meant to be. Don't like it? Move it up a bit to see if it's better... nope... slide it back down again, bingo - you're there! This is especially good on tank decals where a level decal isn't always the goal - you have to stand back and look at it first!
I make a cardboard template for decal placement on gas tanks. That way I know I have both sides exactly the same.
My thumb up is highly deserved here. You are a master. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you much.
this was an excellent work, really detailed tutorial. Amazing, the best video on youtube on making fiberglass seat for motorcicle
Wow, thanks!
You can use duckbill pliers and hold the top of the metal you want to bend so it doesn't vibrate in the vice. It also bends more easily.
Thanks for the tip...
I too think sharpie should sponsor you. Last summer after watching many of your videos I zoomed In to discover exactly the model you use and immediately bought a box. Love how much better it is to locate features with a fine tip red sharpie. Send this to sharpie and show them why they need to sponsor you….. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks for the fiberglass tips. I need to try it sometime.
Thank you Joel.
Hi Paul
. A big thank you.. I'm building a Trials Cub and your channel is an inspiration..
Your calm and thoughtful attention to detail is what makes every video great
Thanks for watching and commenting. We are getting closer to Cub engine assembly. Never done a Cub motor before...
@@paulbrodie that's what I am really looking forward to..
I do hope you do the follow ups on this to the finished seat
That's the plan. I need to paint the mold and it has been a bit cold lately. Have patience!
Can't wait to see that seat finished 😀 Nice job 👍☺️
Thanks. Letting you know my upholsterer was not speedy last time...
@@paulbrodie Haha, ok i'll be patient
Water with a drop of soap has been used for years to allow movement of transfers (decals)
Yes, the comments are saying soapy water.
I recently stumbled upon your channel. Great stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Nunya, thanks for stumbling. We appreciate it!
Aluminum welding rod and hot glue probably wouldn’t have been where I started out for this, but it sure did work well. Once again you have amazed me. 👍✌️
Have you seen the John Britten video?
@@paulbrodie I haven’t, but I will look for it now.
@@paulbrodie I have seen footage of the Britten bike before. A one of a kind masterpiece. 🤯
@@dozer1642 Get a copy of the video if you can. Great story. Tim Hanna wrote a very good book on the Britten too.
Congratulations Colin, and yes, soapy water works to position stickers. Not decals or deckles. 😉
Fortuitous synchronicity! I've been thinking a lot about making a fibreglass seat add on to my son's trials bike the last couple of weeks to make it more like an mx bike because he's a bit intimidated by learning to ride it while standing.
Yes, fortuitous synchronicity!
Super informative, thanks!
Thank you G Man.
The uv light tip makes a lot of sense. I’ve been restoring a 1963 Vespa in india and the body filler (bondo) was starting to cure in under a minute. I didn’t click that the Indian sun was likely the cause of the accelerated reaction.
Another tip. Don't hold the resin container by the bottom. Your hand will heat it and set off the resin faster. Always hold the container at the top.
Timely. I have a seat base to build. THANKS!
That is good timing!
Good Day, Paul and Mitch. You are working on a British motorcycle......It is dekal, be sure :))
As long as we all understand what I am referring, the actual pronunciation is a moot point.
Ahah grande Paul ottimo lavoro! 😊♥️✌️
Nice work I c a lot of guys using some sort of foam to get the shape the late great John Britten ( Britten V twin ) used that wire method and glue to make the mould for that famous machine
Thanks Karl. Yes, John Britten is one of my heroes.
I swear you can read my mind. Everything in looking up, you are making. Thanks for advice I'll send coffie.
Not sure if I'm a mind reader, but we do like making videos showing the process of making stuff. Thanks for coffee :)
Good job Paul 👍
Thank you John.
Thought I was watching John Britten there for a minute Paul. He loved a hot glue gun & rod.
John Britten is one of my heroes.
Quite the Handyman :) Good work!!!
Thank you Bill.
Hi Paul, as an old body & fender guy, who has put on countless "wood-grain" decals , and other type's, on freshly painted automobile's. When putting on such decals, you can use Windex or some plain water (provided it's a solid color, and the sun can't get through the decal) with dish soap. Approx. two to three TABLE-Spoons per gal. How to tell if you have enough soap? Using a sponge, ringing wet, (or as you feel comfortable working with) coat the surface where you wish to apply the decal, if you can't tell that the water has soap in it, add a little more.
Now to get very tribal on just how to spread-out the Decal, to remove air-pocket's. The Decal is generally made of a soft plastic / some a soft vinyl. (Get ready for the incoming arrows,) DO NOT USE A PLASTIC SQUEEGEE, they are too hard, and will scratch the Decal. Use a (softest you can find) rubber squeegee only. Hint a professional small (as in less than 6" in. wide) window washer squeegee will work just fine. Also see if an autobody supply store still carry the small (as in 2" in. wide x 3.5" in. long, X 1/8" in. thick approx.) rubber squeegee's. Don't use one that has been sitting around for like ten year's that will be too hard. If when putting on the decal, and you have a air-pocket you can't get out, use a sewing needle to put the smallest hole possible, to let the air out. This is another reason to use soapy water. It aids in letting the air-pocket lay-down nice and flat, FYI. FYI = For Your Information.
Another TIP ref window glass tinting, don't use "city-water" (that has chlorine in it,) use "DISSTILLED WATER ONLY." You can add soap, no problem. The reason is, you don't always get out / remove all the water. You may have seen window tinting that has a lot of air-pockets / bubbles, or rings like under the tinting. That's the result of the water/chlorine evaporating, i.e., no place for the chlorine to go.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I don't put on big decals, but your advice sounds very good.
Great tutorial 👌
Thanks 👍
Thank you Ade.
I have worked with fiberglass quite a bit through the years. I made a complete set of molds for my 87 Rz350, plus the parts. Everything, from the main panels, to the mud guards, chainguard, and even the airbox. You could also use pour in place foam to make a block of the approximate dimensions, and then carve it to shape, then cover it to make your plug.
Yes, I know about the foam, thanks. I usually use plastic welding rods and a glue gun, but I was out of plastic rods.
@@paulbrodie I see. Your method works pretty good too.
Dislike Windex as an application medium, recommend Johnsons baby shampoo in water for most vinyl glues... I applied vinyl for a job for a few years, that recommendation comes from the vinyl supplier ;-)
Loving this series, Paul!
Thanks for watching, and the tips.
Good stuff
Appreciate it
Thank u so much, i must repair or invent a seat for a '92 Yamaha Jog, and although i can find new seats, they have a ridiculous price where i live, only reasonable solution is this, i'm not gonna pay more than the bike itself for a seat
Wilson, I hope you build a very nice seat for your project! 😉
Nice one Paul & Mitch. Fibreglassing is something I've never done. Brother-in-law is an expert though. He repairs gliders and has made Kayaks in the past.
Thank you Hertog. I do enjoy working with fibreglass.
What a great way of fabricating a mock up.....
Thank you Matt!
Hi Paul & Mitch, Great work, you two! Your demo will make it much easier if I have to do some fiberglass work. Tried it about 60 years ago, and really botched it. Looking forward to the next steps! (as always)
Thank you Tom. I started working with Fibreglass when I was 15, so I do have a few years of experience. It's great when it all goes to plan.
Hello Paul, Mitch. As always, thank you. RE Decals - in my grasp of US English, and based on a childhood of plastic modeling, if you have to peel it, and the thing is self-adhesive, then it's a sticker or peel & stick. If it has water-activated adhesive, then it is a decal, as in "water slide decal" and, decal is actually a shortening of "decalcomania" which is an English adoption of a french word, which I will avoid trying to spell, lest I offend your Eastern neighbors.
Regarding 'glass technique... a good friend of mine just bought 50 lbs. of Chavant clay, which I understand is very good for pulling molds from. Perhaps some day, I'll have to borrow some from him.
Thanks Alan. Different countries and areas have different pronunciations, so as long as we all understand what is being talked about, no problem!
17:47 - No, it isn't crude compared w/ some of the RUclips how-to videos I've seen... This is a lost art and needs to be preserved.
Beautiful work as always..... Keep up the great work guys, awesome video. Thank you... 😁
Thank you.
Such a cool chanel! I learned alot. Subscribed
Thank you very much!
Thanks. I need to build a seat for my mini bike
Thanks Dean.
I recognize the Collector plate on that bike 😉.
You wouldn’t happen to know a fellow named Tom Mellor now would ya?
Yes, "The Tom Mellor" is a good friend of mine...
You could try Alusol aluminium solder to fix the welding rod into a matrix for the base.
Guess that's where computer graphics 'wire frame' models came from?
That came out real nice shape.
Interesting about UV and resins, I didn't know that even though I worked with fibreglass for a few years. (or if I did ever know I've forgotten it)
John Britten used wire frame to create his designs.
Hi Paul, Henry here from the UK! Thanks for all your videos, I have really been enjoying watching them. I’ve been in the process of building a trials cub since I was 14 years old, ten years from starting I’m finally in the process of putting my engine back together. I’m intrigued on how you have managed to get your crankcases so nice. Could you give some more detail on finishing the cases/outer covers and how you have managed to blend all the edges? I would love to do the same with my cases. Thanks very much, Henry
Hi Henry in the UK! Thanks for liking our videos. The cases are all finished by hand. No power tools. First, filing. That's how it gets to be smooth, even. Then 80 grit emery, all over. Sore fingers. 180 grit, 320, coarse scothbrite, fine scotchbrite, then Solvol Autosol metal polish. There's a look you get from that. It's not perfect, but it's an appealing look that is very even.
@@paulbrodie thanks Paul, I look forward to giving this a try!
I've done similar but different things to produce a male plug that I then use to make a plaster of paris mold off of that is used as a female mold. Makes for a nicer hand lay up end product with a nice exterior that you can minimize resin percentage in.
What kind of release agent would you use on the plaster? I like the idea less nasty fibreglass in both the process and the landfill
I’ve used the wax from a toilet bowl gasket when I’ve done fiberglass - that, and the toilet stuff with added wax so it’s firmer. You warm things a bit when you’re done and the workpiece comes right out or off.
I’ve tried doing it “the right way” with PVA and parting wax, and found it really aggravating with the plug molds I was doing. The wax stuff is *loads* easier.
That could work for a one off. Not production. Separating part from mold often requires force and hammering. Plaster of Paris would never last.
@@VyantQuijt I used Johnson paste wax. Seems to work just fine both times I used it. I did spray paint the plaster when making the part before waxing. I waxed the plug prior to pouring the plaster so it would come off.
@@paulbrodie Just one time use in both cases, but they both survived. Had no use for them after that.
Verry good
Fantastic as always...could you do a vid on drill sharpening please, as your a great instructor..many thanks
Thanks Richard. We will sharpen a drill when it warms up. My grinder is outside and yesterday we set a new record for coldest day in February.
Absolutely nuts!.... like Acorn nuts? :)
I'm still unsure what "absolutely nuts" really means.
@@paulbrodie not sure, you said it... must be about having a good time in the shop 😁
Cheers
I also have a red sharpie in my shirt pocket at all times. Paul have you ever marked a finger and then use a saw or grinder and done a double take thinking you have cut yourself?
I use a fine aluminium mesh over the frame work and bondo directly onto that. Being soft aluminium it's easy to cut and forms 3d shapes too.
I have marked a finger with a red Sharpie, but I also know when I cut myself. That's different.
I used 2mm copper wires and a soldering iron... Soldering works well too. And makes a stiffer frame.
I usually use plastic welding rod, but I used it all up. That's why I used aluminum rod. I have a whole box of it.
I prefer brass rod because it's stiffer and holds a shape better than copper and it solders easily but both materials are better than hotglue. If the fiberglass resin did happen to heat up, it won't melt solder but it might melt the glue.
👍👍
Interesting, I use solid copper wire, from house wiring - we call twin and earth in the UK, and soft solder it.
Yes, that would work too. There are many ways to do this. I usually use plastic welding rod but I ran out.
You can use a fabric to start your shape instead of tape.... stretch it over and attach it with your glue gun..or staples if wood frame is used...then resin it like cloth....you can put the tape or any other drip material too ( stretch film or something to stop the drips ) under the cloth.. go to a fabric store for selection... use a good absorbent cloth...thick or thin as you like... also can chose one with some patterns 🤣