What is that piece of rubber "tube" on the lower brake caliper pin? | Honda | Toyota | Lexus | Acura
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2019
- I have scoured the net with various keywords and nobody has actually stated what the purpose of the rubber sleeve is on the bottom of a caliper pin. I'm not sure all disc brakes have it, but some do and in some cases the rubber-sleeved pin goes at the top. If it helps lubricate, why doesn't the bottom one have it? I've also run upon people with seized pins and it's because the rubber can toughen up or expand and lock in place. Wouldn't it disproportionately stiffen one pin vs the other leading to uneven braking?
#bundysgarage # calipepin #discbrakes
Finally, mine are a bit screwed, so I plan on making new rubber sleeves with some tubing from lowes (I'll dremel wheel the matching grooves in place). Any potential problem with that, assuming I can find the right fit?
The little rubber thing maybe 5 mm thick that goes in a grove at the end of the caliper pin. A couple months ago I refurbed my front brakes and had the same question. The two packs of new pins I bought had the slots for the rubber thing on one pack, but the other had no slot. I ended up not putting any of the rubber things on. It seemed like most of the reason my calipers were seizing up was that rubber thing breaking up and getting stuck in the sliding area. So far I haven't noticed a problem.
It may have to do with squealing but I know these cause problems for some people as they can get very tight and greatly limit movement of the pin. Using a rubber-destructive grease will certainly come into play here.
On toyota/scion vehicles, there are rubber o-ring bushings on some of the sliding pins for the calipers. On the front, only the bottom one I believe has it... On the rear, both do if I remember correctly.
When I did my brakes a few months ago I had big problems with the pins seizing up in the rear. Once I got them un-stuck, cleaned, relubed, replaced the pins and bushings, etc... I noticed there was much more resistance with the bushings on (I am sure by design)... Because the calipers were all seized up, there is more resistance than normal I believe.
Either way, they did slide properly after the fact but not as easily as the front ones. I removed the bushings and tested the operation without and they worked extremely well with little to no resistance at all.
But I figured that bushing had to be there for a reason so I made sure to keep them in and just lubed up as much as I could with sil-glyde (the permatex purple stuff seized them shortly after the first time... Don't use that stuff with any rubber).
My question is, are those bushings absolutely necessary? I plan to check/lube the brakes before winter again and want to hear some opinions on these... If they help the rear brakes function better (less resistance with the pins) should I remove them? When doing my dad's Prius brakes, I noticed his rear brakes had the slot for the bushings, but with no bushings present (nobody ever serviced them before me). So I am guessing it won't cause any damage if Toyota practice this on their other vehicles.
Just looking for some thoughts though... What is the function of these bushings anyway? Noise?
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Same here. I own 2017 Toyota RAV4 se and I started hearing some noise like break pads were worn as I was driving. i checked the pads and they were fine. Then I did a little research and took the caliper off to check the pins and sure enough the ones with the rubber ring were completely stuck on the front and rear calipers. Breaks have never been replaced as the car only has 40,000 miles still on the original ones. I threw away the bushings, cleaned the pins well and greased them up with Toyota grease and now not only that I don’t have a vibration when breaking but I also feel like the car has slightly more power! Thank you for the video!
Yes, I believe that will give you at least another 50 hp
@@chrisE815 lol. I myself am trying to figure out how this guy thinks slider pins would give more power ha ha
He feels he has more power because his brakes aren't stuck against his rotor anymore from the seized slide pins...
thank you Shawn, it seems that people are becoming massive morons these days with those meaningless replies haha. Yes the pads were holding a bit too much thus the sounds I was hearing due to the stuck pins. I don’t have the issue anymore. Since I removed the rubber rings I put on about 8,000 miles and the other day I jacked up the car to check and the wheels are spinning free so its great! I Definitely feel I have a bit more power since the pads open completely after braking. Thank you!
@@georgeaudi just for next time, you can buy a brake hardware kit and it will come with the rubber bushing that goes on the guide pin. Costs about $20. And only use pure silicone on that pin so that the rubber doesn't swell. Sil-glyde work well.
The one with an L on it means it's the Lock Pin, the other is the Guide pin and has a G on it. You'll also note that the caliper has matching L and G marks by the holes for where they go.
Most underrated comment here. Should be pinned at the very top.
I just did my brakes 100,000 miles ago and used the best grease (Prolong) and the pin was totally locked up on the lower caliper pin, the upper pins were fine. I will not be using that little rubber piece on the Lower Pin. I agree with the maker of this video.
What’d you expect by going 100k without doing brakes?
I can not tell you how happy I was to find out that rubber piece wasn't needed on lower brake caliper pin, THANK YOU:)
Really?
Best vid on this yet.. my Chevy has this and it caused the rear calipers to stop moving after the rear pads had worn like a wedge..
Excellent quick video and good tutorial, been doing my own brakes for years, and this video would really help someone new. Again excellent video and thank you for sharing!!!!!
My guide pins had same problem and ruined the rubber when force them our of the bracket, and there was no chance to return the pin with rubber because of rusted hole, so I reinstall them with no rubber ring. Right now, I have peace of mind due to your video. Tons of thanks!
Wow! This video was exactly what I needed to see thank you so much. My pins were stuck because of those swelling up and breaking. I didn’t know if I needed to replace them or not. Thank you.
Yeah those things get stuck cause guys who don’t know what they are doing put regular grease on them and they swell.
@@bundysgarage yes your right if you put wrong type of Grease that rubber is gonna be swollen That's why I used Permatex brake grease to my sliding pins because permatex grease is not harmful to rubber
Such good advice
@@Yanbrymenocu I recently used Permatex 24110 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube and now I am seeing reviews where people have found that it swells rubber also.
@@vdivito mine is not swelling its good brake grease
This video hit the nail on the head for what I needed to know
Thanks for this video!! I was having that exact problem with that slide pin because of that plastic rubber piece took it off and worked perfect!!!! 👍🏻THANKS!
You are welcome!
DO NOT USE ANY CLEANERS ON THE RUBBER CALIPER GUIDE PIN BUSHINGS OR BOOTS as was suggested in this video. Simply wipe them off with a clean & dust-free towel or cloth. Using cleaners on them, especially gasoline, brake parts cleaner, acetone, etc. is the quickest way to cause uneven brake wear. Most cleaners will cause the bushings to swell causing the guide pins to stick inside the bracket. Also, DO NOT SPRAY CLEANERS IN THE PIN'S BRACKET HOLES. if you spray cleaners inside of these bracket holes, the bushings may continue to swell over time, seizing them entirely.
DO NOT REMOVE AND DISCARD THEM EITHER, as was also suggested in this video. THEY ARE THERE FOR A REASON. The guide pins with bushings are always on the "trailing" end of the caliper and provide a slight amount of additional resistance compared to the "lead" pin, which is simply a slide and pivot. The additional resistance added by the bushings provide stability and helps reduce brake noise when braking heavily and when the brakes are released after moderate to heavy braking.
This shadetree should seriously consider studying up before working on anyone else's brakes or offering bad advise to others.
Reference: ASE Certs and 28 years of professional brake repair experience.
I totally agree with you. But if you spray cleaner in the gaps and then dry very well, it should work, don't you think? Of course to the rubbers for no reason any solvent.
@@luisalbertolanda Alcohol and soapy water: soap/water and add alcohol. this will not hurt ay thing.
i use wd40 to clean.
I just removed those damn rubber things also. Always causes the pin to freeze up solid. Glad others are doing the same I don't worry about it now.
I had a problem with mine pin-rubber and didn't know what to do...it was stuck and was very difficult to remove the pin. when came out the rubber piece was stuck inside the caliper...removed, cleaned and now it is perfect. tks Sr.
Got replacements dust boots & sliding bushings from my GM dealer. Even with lube, those brand new bushings were so tight that the pins wouldn’t move so I dumped ‘em. The car brake good and I haven’t noticed any particular rattle.
grease is what is known to chew up the rubber plus time and heat.
The only lubricant to use on the brake slide pins is SILICONE based ie. not Petroleum based grease !
The "brakes grease" is a mixed formulation that dries into a gum with heat to quiet the caliper to pad noise.
Most of its petroleum lubricant promptly evaporates to render as gum.
It should be called "brakes GUM" keep it away from your slide pins because it is oil based and short lived unlike high-temp silicone.
👍🏻
You mean I can't use petroleum crease for caliper pins ?why?
I agree! I have always used anti seize thinkn it would keep them free, but have discovered what ur sayn is TRUE! SO, even if u get rid of rubber ring on pin, u can STILL affect rubber BOOTS! I purchased a silicon can. Im a senior who IS ALWAYS still learning!
@@mustafaalshaheen8042 he literally explained why in the comment you're replying to 😂😂
Iv never had an issue using grease inside my caliper piston lmao when I did have problems is when I didn’t use grease. Calipers go bad every few years. Period. There’s no way around that
That’s not true. I have never had them go bad after 100,000 of miles
Great video man, I was just performing brake jobs on a 8th-Gen Honda Accord 2.4L (2008-2012), and a 4th-Gen TL (2009-2014).
So glad you said about taking the rubber off. I just clean and greased my pins but the rubber is stuck tight in there. So ill take it out 👍
Thank you for this video so much what's funny is both of my pins with the rubber were seized and one of them even broke inside the caliper when I took them out and the pins without the rubber came out nice and smooth. And because the pins with the rubber seized I also noticed my brake pads we're very uneven one side had almost a full brake pad and the other was side was completely worn out . I never had any spare rubbers so I put my caliper pins back in and I was worried until I saw this video thank you so much.
I had a rattle after taking my car to the local Honda dealership. They measured my brake pads to see how much life was left in them. Apparently the left rear was dragging and was down to 20% while the rest were at 80%. I wasn't happy with the rattle and a few other items that turned up broken or missing, so I haven't been back. Fast forward a year or so, rattle is still there. Replaced those rear brakes long ago, but the rattle in the front was still there. Over the past weekend, I replaced the front brakes (rotors still good). What I discovered was that the lower bolt which holds the caliper to the carriage pin was missing. Thus, my brake pads were indeed rattling against my rotor the caliper was not correctly aligned with the pad, and the metal backing of the brake pads had removed themselves from the pads (thus creating the occasional grinding noise I heard). My theory is that the dealer measured the pad thickness, and then forgot to replace the bolt when rotating the caliper back into position. This is why you do the simple work yourself!
I totally agree with you,your a good man for telling others.
Thank you for this video. I did removed the rubber of my caliper pins. It works..
THANK YOU! Fixed my stupid Powerstop calipers thanks to this video!
If you buy a quality replacement brake kit you should get everything. I recently installed a set of the Powerstop brakes on a Ford Ecosport . It came with everything. It had new rubber dust boots, it had new stainless steel brake pad shims, I did not notice the rubber bushings on the slider. My style is different. My sliders are threaded on the ends and bolt into the caliper bracket.
Sliders are the only I didn't get new as part of the kit.
I took the sliders out and cleaned them up. Any rust or anything on them I hit with a wire wheel. I prefer to use the permatex ceramic purple brake caliper lube.
Same issues for my 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan. My brake caliper was having issues moving freely I believe because of the very tight guide pin with the rubber sleeve.Today I removed and replaced the brake pad glide clips, removed and cleaned the guide pins but had a bit of a challenge putting the guide pin with the rubber sleeve back into it's hole. I have been using silicone paste for the guide pins. I will remove the rubber sleeve and pay attention to any "new" sounds coming from the brakes as well as performance issues. Any feedback from viewers specific to the dodge grand caravan would be appreciated. Timely video. Much appreciated. Thumbs up for sure.
Thank you so much for making this video I was wondering why I was missing one plastic piece from the other
Glad I could help!
This is exactly what I was searching for and having a problem with. Thank you!!
I thought my pin boots were the same size after cleaning them found two short and two taller .do the tall ones go on top?
So it really doesn’t need the rubber sleeve on the pin?i have a 04 Altima and was about to buy a 10$ kit for each caliper just cus that sleeve wasn’t letting me put in the bolt properly
Nice I had to remove that bushing last night because I had the same issue great detail
I notice most the time I pull the guidepins out of the caliper the grease has turned to glue. I’ve also noticed the anti-seize and synthetic brake grease we use at the shop turns to a gluey consistency as well, maybe the best lube is that which comes with the pads?
I have a 2006 f150. I mixed up the pins. Does the pin with the rubber go in the upper or lower hole?
you want to take those chrome inserts off and clean any rust from the steel of the caliper bracket and then put grease on that before you put the chrome inserts back in so that you prevent "rust jacking" of those chrome inserts. "rust jacking" will restrict movement of the brake pads and the grease applied under the chrome inserts will hold "rust jacking" to a minimum.
The guid pin with a rubber ring goes into the bottom hole right ?? I threw that rubber ring away too.
I also removed those little rubber sleeves on my Chevy Malibu during a break job and it didn't result in any noticeable rattling or anything
silicone grease? Or should we prefer dielectric grease for caliper pins? I would be happy if you help
I was doing my front brakes and rotors on my 03 ranger today and the passenger side caliper pins both had a rubber piece over them aswell but the drive side didn't have them. Why do yoi think that is. Plus the pins on the passenger side with the rubber seem to also be slightly different pins then the driver side pins. Not sure what to do in the am when I finish them.
I couldn't get that pin seal to stay in that groove, and I just reassembled it with out it. Been eating at my mind for an hour now I'm glad it's just anti rattle.
You don’t need it. Just throw it out. And save yourself the problem of it getting stuck in there!
I consider the boots/pin rubber bellows items as part of a complete brake job so I always have the rebuild kits on hand when I dig in... yes they can swell and also the boots can get weak and tear or lose ability to keep water out so I generally will just order all the parts even if I'm just changing pads. If they are swollen generally they haven't been serviced (or correctly) in a long time or the boots bad---Using silicone based lube (lightly) and replacing rubber to me is easy enough...but agree it's not mission critical but If I have it torn down you can count on just replacing them before. you get to that point.
The reason for those rubber "spacers" is important! It keeps the slider pin in place, centered, and keeps the pins from scraping against the caliper. If it came with your vehicle, "put it back in"! An engineer designed it for the vehicles company and decided it works better with it. Remember, it's there for a reason. When you clean, restore and/or regrease your brake caliper and it doesn't let the slider pin go back in, it means the rubber boot/bushing/spacer is stretched and/or swollen, and needs to be replaced. It costs anywhere from $3.50 to $5.50 as a kit with new rubber boots included for both of your front or rear calipers. Do yourself a favor, and just reinstall.
Oh, and as BundysGarage said, clean out "all" of the old grease and use the proper lubricant. I use Sil-Glyde or PermaTex (24110). Apply some on the boots, pins, and the shims of your brake pads. You'll be glad you did.
GL!
Thanks for your comment. But I never put grease on the back of brake pads. It didn’t come from factory that way so why do it? I’ve had this discussion with lots of mechanics and some say do it and others say don’t. I’m in the boat 🚣♀️ that’s say don’t do it. As far as the runner bushing being left off, it’s not that big of a deal if it’s left off. The reason I left it off is, if the wrong grease it used on the seal it will swell and prevent movement of the caliper. Causing the brake pad to wear unevenly. So you tell me this, do you want to keep it on there cause some engineer put it there or do you want to save money by not having to do the job twice???????
@rigoagui Engineers make lots of stupid designs....don't get me started. Empirical evidence is a higher power.
That might be what they are trying to do but you are still going to have rocking in there having a washer only at one end.
@@William1866 yes but usually always a reason. Its a floating caliper. The rubber is what centers the float after breaking
You just replace them every time you do your pads. Its not hard. Engineers might design something badly in an area that needs it but it needed it for a reason. There is always a reason even if the design sucked
Jon Nieves Then why isnt there a rubber bushing on BOTH pins? Why do they only want one to stay centered and not scrape the caliper? It makes sense what you are saying but if true why not both
One of my pins has the plastic roller on the end and the other one doesn’t, forgot which one it goes back into, does it matter which one you put the plastic roller pin into?
Great tips..I always have the pins pushing back due to air pocket.
I need help I have a 2009 G37 Journey Coupe and need to replace the lower front brake caliper bushings and have already messed them up! Anybody have any advice or experience on how not to destroy them?
Does this rubber cause rattling rouse when breaking?
This is what i want to ask. I just replace pad and inspect the caliper pin and it stuck on this rubber side. Then i order new rubber and install back, still have the same problem.
what do that rubber really do anyways? (1:04) howcome 1 pin have it, the other don't?
Remember reconditioned calipers are sometimes a lot cheaper AND easier to deal with than messing about with rusty old calipers with seized slider pins and pistons. I even got some in the color red for my old Subaru :) I swear it took me less time to install them than it did to replace brake pads, mess with the pins and clean up the usual mess of rust and lube the rubber parts with Grease.
does that include bleeding the brake lines
@@superdow1000 good point
True but most of us are trying to save money, some calipers are really expensive. Plus if it ain't broke don't fix it. I mean don't spend hours working on a lost cause but if it's just basic cleaning up, I always re use hardware.
I just buy reconditioned sets instead of cleaning and rebuilding the old ones! Saves 3hrs +
@@superdow1000 On my Honda, pins are in the caliper bracket, so no bleeding required
Does it matter where the guide pin with the rubber goes?....top or bottom?
Just did mine and while I was there I removed that rubber piece just because then I drove the car and it feels very smooth, just went in for a routine checkup and removed all brake pads and pins, cleaned, and re-greased. Car is a lot smoother since the front and rear pins were seized up. I check it every 40k miles or so…it’s worth it
Finally someone who understands basic physics!
Many of the Japanese caliper manufacturers use this differential pin arrangement. The plain pin is called the Guide Pin. The one with the rubber bush is called the Lock Pin and and is usually positioned at the trailing (second pin for a point of the disc to pass) end of the carrier. Carlson makes a kit that has the rubber bellows & the bushings.
Thanks for your explanation. I believe many people don't understand this and the trailing pin changes from side to side. Rotor spins counterclockwise on the left side (driver's side), so the trailing pin is on the bottom or front of the caliper.
Opposite for passenger side.
Great tip!
Can you confirm that the lock pins are supposed to be the trailing pins?
@@MrBikedrummer Not true, it would depend on if the caliper is mounted in front of or behind the axle.
@@MrBikedrummerYeah that's BS. If the calipers are mounted behind the axle, the trailing pin does not change from left to right
@@rfcdgaf
So, therefore, the trailing pin shouldn't change regardless of whether the caliper is mounted behind or in front of the axle.
If I'm understanding this correctly, is the trailing pin the last pin to be passed by the rotor?
If so, it would always be the front most pin on either side.
Thanks for the discussion and I'm not sure that it matters.
I was told it's to reduce anti vibration in the caliper when braking. I just cant remember which one whent on top now 2016 f150 xlt......
The pin with the rubber bush will have a smaller diameter than the plain pin so you may get rattle or vibration .
Just done a brake upgrade on my Fiesta ST to the Mondeo ST 220 calipers. Im in the UK so guessing that would be the Ford Fusion in the US but Im not sure you got that model. The calipers we’re used so cleaned, painted and rebuilt. Both are now sticking on all the time and I’m thinking this is the cause. Only difference I’ve got is that the rubber sleeve is around 15mm long so without it there’s quite a bit of play in the pin. I tried it before fitting them and decided they must be there for a reason so put them on. The one without the sleeve went in perfectly but the one with had to be forced in. I can’t just buy 4 kits like someone suggested as the bores are a slight different diameter meaning if I use the ones without a sleeve in the bore meant for a pin with a sleeve there’s even more play. Going to strip them down and remove the sleeve and see how I get on. Wish I hadn’t doubted myself now 😂Thanks for the video 👍
It’s like a vibration damper and always goes on the leading edge of the brake caliper. If you’re gonna leave it out then replace it with another pin that’s whole like the opposite one.
In India we install an upsized caliper pin for the rattling noise but I think that will last just an year or two as the caliper brackets are wayy to old like 7 to 10 years
This video saved the day for me today👍🍻
I had that rubber band swell up and the sliding pin would not come out with out a hammer and lots of banging to knock it out. I thought it was rust so I had sprayed and tapped that area for 3 days, 2 or 3 times a day! I just removed it and cleaned the receiver-end and the bolt, lubed it up with some brake grease. Back on it went!
Rubber goes on the trailing pin. If caliper on left of rotor the trailing pin is on the bottom. If caliper on right side of rotor, the trailing pin at top.
- Haha... Thanks for pointing out that important information.....
A rule of thumb is if they created extra expense for the vehicle with the bushing, then they considered it necessary. Also if there is only one of them, then of course it matters which hole it goes into.
Be mindful of the holes!
Could you please explain why the pin sound be hold in place in the hole totally (as you push the boot up in order to get air between the boot and the pin). The boot has normally a distance which pull a little bit the pin out, i think this would be also o.k. Please let me know the reason for why the pin sound be totally in the whole. Thanks for your prompt reply.
Thank you brother. Good explanation.
Found several pairs of new calipers with the Tube the pin slides in... too tight and had no lube.
LIQUI MOLY Synthetic Lubricant for Brake Pins 5 g (21119) Is this product suitable for brake calipers? I would be happy to help
Really need help with this one!! Similar but maybe the opposite to the end of your video.. One of my caliper guide pins is not seated properly in length, it wouldn't bounce back to the same height as the other guide pin even after proper lubrication. I also replaced both rubber boots (not the tube thing on the slider pins as mine don't have one), and tried sliding each guide pin into each bracket hole trying to see if it was the cause of the pins, and the good one would still work fine and the bad one would still be problematic no matter which pin it was. I did some research and found that there is a limited number of posts talking about this issue, but apparently they were saying that the reason behind this was due to too much vacuum inside and would need to let some air in? I did test out taking the bracket off and cleaned out all the old grease inside the bracket hole of the problematic one, and put the guide pin in to see what would happen; it turned out that it would not move at all without any lubrication. After lubricating the pin BUT without installing the rubber boot, the pin would indeed tend to bounce normally just like the other good one. But after installing the rubber boot (even a new one), the issue would reoccur). There are no proper guidelines showing how to solve this issue. Do you have any suggestions?
what long term lubrication would you recommend for the bleeder screw threads e.g when I removed my front left brake caliper bleeder screw, it snapped off inside the caliper and was impossible to remove - I had to replace the whole part of the caliper.
Anti seize, I would really cake it on too.
I used permatex grease on pins and it seems to turn to gum . The pin with the rubber bushing was seized and the pad was uneven . The pin was fine and I even put a new rubber on pin . Pin still does not want to slide . I think those rubber little rings are crap.
I always wonder why that piece of rubber does on 4he pin. Thanks for tip. Ive notice when i push the pin in it slides off that groove. Next time illtake it off.
The old grease that was on your pins looked like the CRC black synthetic crap I was using on my 2 Toyota’s! That stuff was garbage, it would gum up literally after a month. I can’t tell you how many sets of brakes I’ve ruined before I figured out it was that grease. I also have removed that rubber bushing because of swelling. I would only recommend that you clean out all of the old grease in the bracket bores because it may react to the new grease, and possibly gum the pins up. It can be time consuming but it’s better if you clean out all the old grease whenever replacing with a different type/brand.
The rubber seizes if you don’t use a silicone based lubricant. Silicone won’t cause the rubber to swell. If you take it off it’ll cause vibrations that rattle the pin. In this video they use synthetic brake grease, which I’m pretty sure isn’t silicone. Majority of the swelling and rubber problems is because of non silicone grease used.
Done it to a lot of vehicles and never got any vibrations. Also if it was so important why isn’t the rubber boot on both pins? It’s usually only on one?
Hi again. Forgot to ask this, but how is your brake caliper after removing the rubber sleeve? Mine has swelled considerably compared to 2 weeks ago. Removed it and it seems to fix the sticking caliper problem.
Exactly!
You probably used the incorrect grease. These do not swell up when the correct grease is used
I had recently done the rear brakes on my daughters 2017 camry le i removed the guide pins, one pin on one side had half of rubber bushing left so basically fell off the pin & put new grease on the pin temp till i get new rubber bushing to install on it which i found that auto zone carries them that contain 4 boots & 2 bushings in a pack by duralast for under 6$ so i will be installing new rubber bushing on the pin that was worn, there is reason why these are on the bottom guid pin so i would recommend replacing them if needed, dealership wants 15$ for just one rubber bushing very expensive where auto zone can get two + four rubber boots by duralast way better deal..
Today I found one on one side of a mazda 2 had seized on so attempted to heat it up and then it pretty much blew up due to expanding gasses from the rubber turning to liquid. How bad an issue could that be?
Wait you blew up the caliper bracket?
I hope the Grease was silicone based atleast. Last time I did not use a silicone grease and it ate the seals
I’m wondering about the caliper bolt with the rubber on it. Is that always in the lower end of the caliper or upper? And you said you just remove it?
upper end
I bet its there to get the pin seized so you can get it serviced. All about the moneeey
Sadly the screen on my TS80 stopped working. I just purchased the TS101 so I hope this one last a long time.
I am now raw dogging my slider pin with no rubber. No regrets. Moves freely now and I'm no longer worried about it and I can move on. Thanks. No rattles, squeals or anything btw. Ford Focus 2010
Thanks for the info. I didn't know what that was for.
No problem!
I had a stuck caliper. It was a bent slide pin. I just got the car so not sure how it bent.
thank you for this video.. really..
that damn pin was really not moving at all. removed that rubber thing .. . i tried lots of things but now, it's gone and my pads are now using even with good braking
I realized this happened on my Toyota Sienna. It froze the pin and caused me some problems.
Chevy uses them on some cars. I find the rubber binds. I think even the new one gets stuck, maybe due to corrosion in the bracket
Thanks for the tip on throwing away the rubber ring. Most of the cars I drive are old. What’s the best grease to use on those slide pins?
I use anti seize. It works perfectly and will prevent rust in bad environments.
@@dmandman9 I will now as well, thank you!
Never have see the rubber boots on the bottom pins. They both seized on my 2011 outback and sure enough the inside pads were worn twice as much as the outer. Hopefully no rattle from that removal of those as you stated. Thanks.
Did you replace them or get rid of them?
@@determineddad7935 i had first gotten ride of them, but then had a rattle noise over bumps and replaced them with new.
I had the outer pads on the rear on my Mazda 6 worn to the metal. I just threw on two new rotors and akebono pads. When I removed the pins they were almost dry. I left the rubber piece on and used permatex synthetic ultra brake lubricant. Both pins slide freely. Let’s see how it performs long term.
Keep us posted
That green permatex brake grease turns to gum . Crap. Get silicon stuff.
I have a weirder issue. I replaced my pins with new ones that dont have the rubber and it's now rattling for the first time. Everything is torqued correctly too. All I did was some cleaning when I snapped a guide pin bolt so they were replaced, but it's crazy to think that all the dirt I cleaned off kept stuff from rattling. So I'm lost now
Were the new slide pins aftermarket? They may have been undersized. They're normally a pretty snug fit. (So much so, that flats are machined in them to allow grease to flow.)
Very nice! Thank you.
Never knew what that rubber piece was doing there.
Question: why one pin has it but the other pin doesn’t? (What if the pin that doesn’t have it, is the one that rattles -> what do car manufacturers say about that?)
Thx!
My 2017 f 150 fx4 brakes have rubber on both, top and bottom pins. All the kits ford tries to sell me only has one pin with the rubber. Hs to be nose control of some type.
Well I tried this on my Saturn Vue but the rubber sleeve on my is almost an inch long and when I take it off the pin is loose I'm sure that's not going to work.. Looks like O'reilly's has a kit with the sleeve's and boots.
The bushed pin is smaller than the plain pin so you are bang on mate.
Recently diy'd my brake pads and rotors... Upon installation the caliper guide pins with that similar rubber tip end refuses to completely seat back into the bracket. I push it in but feels like there's trapped air behind it that pushes the pin back out! Is there cause for concern, should I replace those guide pins.. Please help lol
Made every attempt to release that trapped air behind the pin but can't... I cleaned out the hole on the bracket and re lubricated the guide pin, seemed to help but still some resistance 😪
No just pop that rubber piece off, throw it away, re-Install it and it will be good to go.
I have the same "problem". but one of the comments here indicates the purpose is push the brakes away from the rotor after the brake is released. This makes sense. There is probably enough pressure from the caliper to squeeze the brake tight but when the brake is released the air pressure causes the brake to snap back. Just a thought. Not sure.
ruclips.net/video/evDnBOoKdqM/видео.html
For anyone else looking to use the boots and have the same issue
Castor oil don't swells rubber and is best if you don't have rubber Grease. Toyota/ Castrol red rubber Grease is mostly castor oil.
Use any grease. The problem is 'mechanics' relpace the break pads with the caliper lift method and only take out one slide pin allowing the other to rust in place.
The reason the rubber is swelling up is the grease. You should use a silicone paste instead of grease. Grease is petroleum bases and rubber and grease don't get along.
Yes I do but most major retail auto repair shops don’t. So why run the risk, just cut them off.
I use rubber grease (red grease) for brake callipers
My g37 has one and it stops the bolt from going in, someone mentioned using anti seize. Is it possible to run without it with no damage
I know this is a old comment but I personally would just leave them off. I wouldn't use anti seize because anti seize is gritty, it basically does the same thing as grease but has metal powder in it.
@@Yophillips3272 I already got new boots, and used the brake grease. My car was fine without one. I still put one on though, I just feel better that way
the slide pin with the rubber goes on the bottom or the top?
I varies from vehicle to vehicle and the front ones might be opposite from the rear on a particular vehicle. Check online forums or videos for your particular vehicle.
Do I have to clean the inside of the caliper where the pin goes sliding in?
If there is rust on the pin when you pull it out, yes. Otherwise just spray some brake parts cleaner down there let it dry and then reassemble.
I may overkill but I like to have a peace of mind, I took the caliper bracket off and cleaned out the guide pin holes with brake cleaner and long q-tips. I like to make sure all the old grease is all out of there before I put in new lube. Then again I only work on my vehicle so it’s not like I do this day in and day out.
@@austinlopez9981 Same here . I clean ALL that out !
I've just done my brakes on my mazda 3 (2016). The bottom sliding pin was stuck. Managed to take it off and noticed the piece of rubber on the pin. I cleaned the pin, but couldn't put it back. I've removed the rubber and placed back the pin without it. Has anyone else had the same issue on the mazda? Will it be ok without the rubber on the pin? Thanks!
It will be fine without the rubber.
@@bundysgarage for me its more worst without the rubber bushing its caused your brakes to make noise maybe he don't put grease on the pins thats why its stuck up
Why is it only on one pin though? Only one pun on each side of vehicle has that rubber thing on the guide pin. But I want expecting it so I didn't pay attention to it. Now I dont know if it's on top or bottom
My Toyota's have them on Bottom pin . I just did both cars . I think maybe I should have removed the rubber !
Working with brakes, dirt and grease on a clean tail gate?
I can the brake components before installing them once they come off the "clean" tailgate.
Those little anti rattle rubber sleeves (I believe that what they are) will swell up as you stated if the wrong slide pin lubricant is used.
Well, I use what it suppose to use. I used sil glade grease that it made for that rubber. it damaged the little rubber
Question: does it matter where the slider with the rubber goes in? As in took them both out and don't remember where the one with the rubber goes in. Thanks
No cause you should cut it off and then reinstall them. Unless you want it to bind up on you in the future.
@@bundysgarage thanks.
@@MarcoS-yd9pf did you end up cutting off the rubber off your caliper slide pins? If you did, what was the outcome?
@@alfredbernal8603 no. I ended up figuring which one went where. Ha ha
@@MarcoS-yd9pf i ended up doing more research and buying the rubber boots and the rubber sleeves and doing the front brake job myself. It turned out good! Big difference for the better & i'm sure i saved plenty of money. Appreciate your response..have a nice rest of your day!
Nonsense..the rubber o ring is to stop vibration of the unit. When you fit a new one...just spin it around a while and it slips lovely. Never take anything off.. It has a reason that be there
You now know
I’ve take. 100’s of them off and not a single person has come back and told me they feel a “vibration”.
Have you ever encountered allen head pins on the caliper? My 2016 Ford Edge has them and I don't what size wrench to get. Appreciate any help