VW & Audi Have This MAJOR Problem Way Too Often!
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- We work on VW/Audi Products all the time and this is one thing we have seen so much and it was time for everyone to be aware that isn’t already. The Professor will show you one of the most common issues we see on these engines. It’s a simple find, but if you don’t know about it you could find yourself going down the rabbit hole. We hope it helps. Enjoy!
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30 plus years in the trade, I never seen that for a vac leak. Well done. All the Best.
This issue is pretty specific to the GEN 1/2 TSI engines. PCVs go bad on these which take out the rear main. Their will generally be signs of an oil leak after a new PCV when this happens. They have an updated rear main part which doesn't seem to have the same issues. Nice work showing the diag!
Blow by shuts audis engines off.
Awesome work guys, l would have NEVER thought a Rear Main Seal could cause a vacuum leak!😳 Thanks for the diagnostics 😊👍🏻
my first car was a VW.. in the 90s. i learned my lesson. but RMS and vacuum leaks i would never associate. oil leaks sure. and obviously its leaking oil from everywhere as well. yep thats the vw i remember.
To my knowledge, the rear main seals go out to over pressure caused by a bad PCV.
That is typically what causes them! You’re absolutely right! 👍
Yes sir
Thanks for sharing 🙏🏼💪🔥
The seal has also been revised. New design. But as already mentioned, the PCV valve is what causes the rear main seal failure due to excessive vacuum from the failed valve.
You’re right about that, i’ve seen the same thing before.
Plastic intake manifold? Plastic radiator? More plastic under the hood and on the car body than ever before, yet the car prices have never been this high. What a pathetic, crooked industry.
I bought both cars new: a 1988 Camry and 2000 Passat. My Camry's gas and brake lines rusted out at 220K and the Passat is still going strong with 328K.
My 2001 Passat wagon has accumulated nowhere your distance, but it still serves me well and I am determined to keep it as long as I can.
314k miles on a VW rabbit here 2009 with 2.5 liter 5 cylinder engine, manual transmission
Thank you for sharing this. I can confirm this can also happen on BMW m52 engines
If you work on Audi all the time you should see that the air oil separator on the cam girdle is the wrong part and/or aftermarket. The Audi part should be white on the back side where the diaphragm vent is pointing and is not the same as the VW counter part. I work on these cars daily and see this all the time. Shops that "fix em all" buy parts from local auto parts store when they need to be buying OEM parts to make these car work correctly. Already on this car I see a white aftermarket oil filter, aftermarket coils , and the wrong air oil separator. Bad or aftermarket air oil separators are often cause the sealing flange failure. Check crankcase vacuum and compare numbers with OEM. You will see they are 99% of the time way off when part is not OEM.
and changing the thermostat is another $4K job.....buy a Lexus....
Or a Toyota, if you're ok with being Normal @@chadhaire1711
Some mechanics who have undergone the so-called brainwashing and work at a dealer believe that only the parts sold by the dealer are good, any other part, even if it was an ordinary screw, is not suitable for installation in a car, it's ridiculous. You have to start with the fact that parts from a car dealer are too expensive, and besides, I have come across the fact that a part produced in China and sold as an aftermarket is the same part - also with a logo, e.g. Audi, but it is blurred from this part and it is sold on Amazon at 1/5 the price at the dealer
@@johnkruk8383 and most of the fake parts fail. fake electric parts can destroy a car
The older revisions had the black portion before they changed it to white
Great content. Keep it up. Used European car brands are perfect for shops and nightmares for owners. Audis are such a joy to drive for the 5 minutes they aren’t broken
Loved how you paid attention lowering the car car looking on both sides.... before lowering... My dad taught me to yell clear lowering and look at both sides before lowering when I was a kid....
i would have never thought a rear main seal could cause a vacuum leak large enough to matter. great info
I was thinking to myself, "How in the world would you even think to look at the rear main?" I have a lot to learn about "Imports."
The brake booster is another source of vacuum leak that effects engine performance.
@@markambrose1910
I've worked in a "fix-all" shop. The thing to know about imports is to stay away from German cars.
@@pedlpower: many years ago I had VW GTI. It broke so often that I had to get rid of it. I replaced it with a Lada, and had a much more reliable car.
@@drewthompson7457
VW, all the hassles of a German car without any of the prestige. A Yugo or Renault is a good alternative to a German car also.
Honestly did not see that coming. Vacuum leak sure, but leading to the rear main seal..!! it's crazy what automotive is coming to. Cool video, thanks for sharing.
Not really, crankcase pressure
Wow !! That was a curveball I would have never ever expected. Great diagnoses and video content.
Pull the oil filler cap while the vehicle is running. If you can barely lift the thing off then the diaphragm in the pcv valve/oil separator has torn. This will happen on plenty of other vehicles including domestics. Usually it'll turn the rear main seal into a reed valve and make one heck of a whistling sound. Like blowing through a blade of grass between your fingers. Pull the oil filler cap or dipstick and the sound instantly goes away.
AT-205 reseal. I put that in my 2011 VW GTI every other oil change as preventative. It works great. If the leak is too far gone, nothing is going to save that, except replacing it. I did have to replace my PCV valve. Change the oil every 3k....it has 103k on it runs awesome. I would rather spend more money on maintenance to drive a fun car that not. Just me. Those that want reliability just buy an older Toyota that has had good maintenance done on it. Every car.. if you want it to last a long time... change the oil every 3 to 5k depending on how aggressive you drive and if you do mainly city or highway.
WOW great tip never would have thought of that being a vacuum leak 😳can you show rear main replacement
I wouldn't have suspected a rear main seal as a cause of a vacuum leak. Great video, thank you.
That's something you wouldn't think would cause that really good to know
Great video. A primary tool in my Audi kit is a bung with a tire-valve I clamp onto my TIP. I don't have a smoker, but I use my compressor, a spray bottle with soap and water, and a keen ear.
When the pcv system malfunctions in TSI engines, it causes excessive crankcase pressure which will result in the rear seal to start leaking.
Good stuff , boss , wish I had a shop like yours near me
Rear main sealvaccum leak? Now I’ve learned something. Thx
Funny how some things come back. During the 1980s in Australia Ford released the first fuel injection on the 250ci 6 cylinder engine it was analog so no 02 sensor idle mixture was achieved by manually adjusting air flow correction at the intake flap & the pcv gave full vacuum to the crankcase . There were no smoke machines then so our risky test was to feed LP gas into the bell housing & note the improvement in the idle. Incidentally I have come across this problem with a VW Amarok . What goes around comes around.
...Good deal, after that test, you already knew what to do, fix that PCV, modify it.
1st and 2nd gen EA888 were prone to rear main seal failure due to PCV over pressure as thegrimmpersective said . That problem has been pretty much resolved with the 3rd gen EA888 although the odd one still has that issue . I have a 3rd gen 1.8 TSI in my Alltrack and have had no issues .
Amén! We are already on EA888 gen 4.
Rear main seals really confusing for sure because it's in the crankcase an is not related manifold vacuum. I would assume it would just leak a lot of oil. Like you don't get a fuel trim change when you take off the oil cap The only way I believe d the rear main seal could cause a vacuum leak is if The PCV valve was stuck open and causing a gross vacuum leak in the manifold system. Really confused anyone have answers??
Rear main seal causing a vacuum leak. Interesting things on vehicles
Technically any oil leak could cause a vacuum leak. The motor is a giant vacuum pump.
This is an issue mostly on Gen 1 and 2 (Read very old on cars built between 2007-2014)EA888 TSI engines and corrected in the recent Gen 3 and 4 iterations. Also this type of failure has a chain of events leading up to this, meaning, those other side issues were not addressed and caught in time. New OEM part should remedy this for good.
i was like its going to be a rear main seal. i actually just did this last week on a mk6 gti. The seal is basically a piece of paper. Companies like Iabed Industries make a billet rear main cover with a normal style seal it. well worth the money.
I'll have to check them out. Do you have a link?
@@theroyaltyautoservice ruclips.net/video/r-vvlnENJNI/видео.html&ab_channel=034Motorsport
I knew about the pcv problems on these engines but didn't know about that, good find fella 👌👌
Holy WOW, I've never seen this! Thank you for FYI!
After 3 Audis over 7 years never again. Nothing but problems. Just bought a Lexus which I’m delighted with but RUclips still serving me up Audi videos because I spent so much time trying to figure out what was wrong with one shit box on wheels after another.
When I was younger, I always wanted an Audi. After seeing all the repair horror stories, and seeing a friend's Audi start burning a quart every 1k at 80k miles, I'm glad I never got one. I recently had a 01 Acura TL that I owned for 20 years and had 224k miles on it. Unfortunately, it was wrecked by a careless driver, so now I'm driving a 2020 Camry XSE AWD, which I plan to keep for another 20 years.
Haha you miss the car😂
Sometimes the leak occurs through the PCV valve, but the membrane remains intact and there is no visible leakage outside. The intake manifold continuously sucks crankcase gases from the engine and strongly pulls the oil filler cap. It's easy to detect this by removing the PCV valve cover. Thanks for the awesome video!
Great intel. Would never think to look.
great info !!! thanks i love the educational stuff , i am a tech also , and i am always wanting to learn more !!!! keep it up love the videos !!!
When you worry about reliability you have to understand that the term "reliability" can mean several different things to different people. For example my 03 e55 amg is the most reliable car ever made. Why you may ask? Well due to the engine not using variable intake or exhaust camshaft phasers. Cams are fixed so no timing components related to advancement and retarding available. To a mechanic like me this means reliability. I dont consider oil leaks from valve covers, oil pan, timing covers leaks etc part of the reliability of a vehicle as those are maintenance items. A cars reliability is determined on how many miles that long block internals can last before throwing a rod or failing lifters/camshaft, timing chains, not the attached ancilleries that are failing outside of the engine. People that want a cool or fast car and then talk down on said car because they were ignorant to the fact that certain brands leak more than others is usually a sign of vehicle ignorance. You cannot have more power and torque from an engine and expect it to last as long as a toyota that is producing only 200hp as heat is the enemy of all cars. Heat from turbos amd superchargers, even high pressure fuel pumps will create heat cycles within the engine causing sealants and gaskets to leak. Audi /vw is not a ubreliable brand, its that it has many unknowledgeable customers. Many audi models use a bedplate as a valve cover so its metal on metal surface between a sealant. With more rigidity from the heads you you sacrifice propensity to more leaks. So in the future know what your getting into and remember reliability means short block/ long block strength and longevity not how many times your car had to go to the shop cause your car is leaking oil and throwing check engine lights for evaporative emmisons. Many of which are "add ons" required by the epa to reduce emissions regulations on vehicles. Your welcome.
I've had my coffee can Redline smoke machine for 25+ years. Finally crapped out and now I have to get a new one.
Is the Snap On smoke machine a good one? Be super convenient as the Strap On man comes by once a week selling his crack, but I am used to the features on my old smoker.
My old smoker has an adjustable flow control. Nothing electronic. Twist knob for a valve that had infinite control. Comes in handy in which you find the leak but dialing it down gives just a trickle to really pinpoint the location.
The only thing I didn't like about my old smoker is that the ball in the flow gauge would sometimes stick giving false values. Ha ha, I would have to rap on it w/ my leathermans pliers.
Love your videos.
It's a good machine. You can lower the flow down but it's not fully adjustable. If you can wait just a bit we are about to buy another machine and I will review it on a video.
@@theroyaltyautoservice I can wait.
😃
Take a look at the Ancel S3000
I had a 2001 Jetta with the 1.5t - all of the coils went bad and it turned into a mass recall back then. I was one of those who said “never again” to VW/ Audi
Great job and video,, I've been a licensed technician for over 45 years, and I swear I still come across something new every F_ _ KIN month.. I now teach across Canada and a tech came across a good one.. a purge solenoid did it's job, but would intermittently wouldn't seat 100% , cause rich then lean condition.. I push heavily, to understand the chain of commands,, LAF sensor and your best data lines are long/short term reads....
Its even better when the seal goes on the gearbox input shaft . . . in the UK the Skoda gearboxes are declared to be " Sealed-for-life" by Skoda and the main dealers will not do anything to the gearbox to remedy the problem (For fear of losing their franchise ?). They will not even just top-up the oil in the gear-box. So, if you're an owner whose vehicle is out of warranty, you just have to continue to use the car as the gearbox gradually degrades and wait for it to fail. At that point the dealer recommends a new gearbox !
When that happened to mine, I took it to an independent garage who got a specialist to rebuild the gearbox. . . .its been running fine since 2017.
Trouble is finding garages who have the full range of "Old School" mechanicing skills is difficult.
The big motor companies are turning the main dealers mechanics into fitters.
The VW/Audi/Skoda cars are being over-engineered
What the heal? Lean codes for a rear main seal? LOL
Done a few of these rear main lean problems on Audi and VW too. Gravy money.
Thanks for sharing.
Lol that’s incredible thank you Sherwood!
Cool video Sherwood. You taught me something today. Thank you for sharing. Hope y'all have a great day! 👌🏼👍🏼
Can't find that vac leak with starting fluid. Looks like the smoke tester is the best thing since OBD.
the rear main seal leak is actually not as common as some may think. the vehicle usually has to have had many issues prior to this that were not taken care of right away.
True that. Audi/VW made few millions of 2.0 TFSI engines running in various cars. People see failures of few dozen circulating on RUclips and they call it trash, lol.
I love my smoke machine, gets me all excited when I need to get it out to test a car.
"My nemesis car" lol, Subbed! I know these engines well.
Had the same thing happen on a 2009 VW GTI. The factory RMS on those 2.0 TSI engines is prone to failure. There are some good after market parts that are better to use. The biggest drag is all the labour you have to put into it to replace the RMS.
me W/2011 VW CC EA-888. thanks for the heads up
I had the same issues on my mk6 GTI ( same Engine EA888 ) but at the same time I had 2 other issues
PCV and High pressure fuel pump
The idiot I bought the car off tried to mask the HPFP running bad ( the O ring had split ) and they tried to lube around the Fuel pump. Clearly that didnt work so I replaced it with a 034 motorsports one ( going performance on engine )
I also replaced Rear main seal and entire PCV system. Literally 10 minutes later the Coolant expansion tank started to leak ( common for all VW/Audi cars ) so I got hit all at same time. Was ok since I was replacing all fluids anyhow, I was doing all the work and now car runs great!
I replaced the following in 6 days total work ( I did work after work )
Put a leather interior in the car
replaced Spark plugs and coil packs from a R8
flushed oil 3 times as with HPFP fuel was in the engine oil. I now use Liqui Moly 5w40 purple bottle
Rear main seal
replaced HPFP with 034 motorsports HPFP
MoS2
DSG service
Coolant replaced
Brake fluid changed
added Bilstein B6 shocks all around as old ones were gone
Put new brakes and rotors all around
Got new PS5 Tyres and put mk7 Gti wheels on the car
changed every single filter on the car
and gave it a MASSIVE detail ( I am OCD so the car was not up to my standards and spent 2 days polishing and it came out great )
I bought the car for $5000usd and I have used it now for 12 months. After doing all this work I Have had no issues with the car
Long story short, maintain this engine properly and you will have no issue. This is not simpleton Toyota, those are way more complex machinery marvels.
I also have a mk6 GTI. I had to replace the HPFP ...it was the first thing that went on this car. I read up on it... it was a design flaw. Since I put the new on in... no issues. I also just recently replaced my PCV valve and I had the same leak on the coolant expansion tank so replaced that too. Next is the timing chain and tensioner, guides, and while I have that done I will change out the Throttle body and water pump. The Engine is sold. It has 103k on it and runs awesome. I change the oil every 3k. Folks that own these cars know they are in it for some money to keep them in top running order. If they don't they will break. Most should just by a Toyota ... but even now the new ones are not as good as the older ones.
common, a very good catch that many miss and are not aware of.
I use a Laserpointer to see the smoke better. 😊 🙋♂️
I've never tried that. I will definitely try it the next time I use the smoke! Thanks!!
@@theroyaltyautoservice I hope it helps you. Many kind regards from Germany!🙂😍
Most of these parts have different versions all the time. Did they ever upgrade the rear main seal version for these engines?
Amazing wok and skill mate
Rear main seal is an engine out procedure! Oh the humanity!
Brilliant video, thanks for sharing. 👌🏼
Spray some brake clean in the bell housing and RMPs go up you know the rear main is shot
Good content, as always. That was a great, hard-to-catch find!
Think I'll stick to my Rover 75 with M47 engine.
250k miles
Original rear main seal and timing chains and 50 mpg 😅
Wow, just when I think I've seen it all. Lol. Very good work.
have you guys seen this on the MQB engines in the A3 and S3's? same engine in the golf R's and GTI's? I know PCV stuff can be an issue for them but i've never seen rear main seals on those.
cool video though and something to look out for.
The problem in the video was
Common only on Gen 1 and 2 iterations of the EA888 TSI engine. Means engines made between 2007-2014/15. It was corrected on Gen 3 and 4 iterations. Wish the mechanic in the video made that clear but thrashing VW/Audis brings in more clicks and controversy right?😂
I've never heard of a real main seal causing a vacuum leak. I guess that is better than GM's 2.4 engine blowing the rear main seal due to condensation & over pressure in the winter blowing the engine due to lack of oil.
That thing has to be dumping oil out of the rear main.
This is a great "mechanicing" channel. Very interesting, even to a layman
Years ago the owner of a German car shop I worked at said ( repeatedly ) "We don't fix Audis we just work on 'em". People who own them deserve them.
He said to you or to a customer who brought Audi to the shop?
My Audis have been great. But of course I actually maintain them. 😅
At least the rear main oil seal is a dead easy 10 min job to fix! . . . . . . . . . . Just makes me want to rush out and buy an Audi! 😆
My first guess was PCV bad. Dang!!also, I’ve seen lean codes in the 2.0T because of low fuel pressure causing a lean condition. Just something to think about.
Great 👍🏼 lesson !
Thanks mate .
👊🏼 🔥
The pcv fails and blows out the rear mains. On even newer ones its cracking lower oil pans
Thanks for sharing.
3 mechanics including the local V.W. dealer cannot fix my tiguans misfire issue. Changed plugs and coils twice and the scanner is still saying misfires on 2 and 4. I'm seriously considering rolling it into the river.
those symptoms are consistent with a bad camshaft actuator solenoid too. Happens on the 2.0 L engine
Looks like your VW dealer technician is a code jockey and reads the codes and swaps the parts probably assuming the cam timing error is associated with the misfire and not the other way round 🤔
What year is your Tiguan? MK1 (2011-2017) or MK2 (2018-Present)?
@@Pamlicojdjdj1487 2012 t.s.i. 4 motion.
@@BLACKWOLF-1911 That’s why. That was the EA888 gen 1 or 2 where this issue was common. It was corrected in later iterations of the same engine starting in 2015 with the gen 3 and in 2021 with the current gen 4.
Had an old Volvo 240 D did the same thing
Just like BMWs front crank seal behind the main pulley/dampner…
So before this misfire problem occurs - does Volkswagen /Audi have a recommended service interval for checking or just replacing the pcv valve? Better yet, what do you, at Royalty, recommend? And is this issue only confined to 2.0 litre or does it effect 1.8 Volkswagen engines also?
Definitely not just the 2.0. VW does not have a sevice interval. We've never had one but it might be a good idea. We will have to look into that. Thanks!
@@theroyaltyautoservice Thank you for all of your videos. I am a retired tech and I keep up with everything I possibly can.
@@theroyaltyautoserviceThis issue was endemic to Gen 1 and Gen 2 EA888 TSI engines made between 2007-2015 and corrected on the later Gen 3 and Gen 4 iterations. Probably good to clarify this to your audience.
Keep making videos thank you
Hi, I didn't understand it so well, why the rear main seal cause a vacuum leak?
Because its entering unmesured air in the engine and ecu trying too adjust adding extra fuel to keep ratio normal so needs to be everyting sealed
Unwanted air in the engine means more pressure through the pcv system.
And the pcv system is connected to the intake manifold
Wow that’s a new one. Audi 😮
I'm glad your 'blood pressure' pump was leaky. Allowed me to understand how that smoke machine works. Now makes sense, needs a good seal to push smoke in system. Thx. I've learned something today! (I'm not a mechanic, but like to know how things work)
My friends with Audi's & VW's have put their cars in the shop for things that I've NEVER had to mess with on any of my Toyota's/Lexus. Several of them have said "never again" & have walked away from Audi/VW entirely. You lease German you & buy Japanese. I don't have to defend the fact that Toyota/Lexus are superior to German manufacturers.
Bragging that your car is reliable is like bragging that your wife is punctual.
I like my Toyotas and they're very practical and reliable, but they're also soulless and horrible to drive. When people ask me what cars to get, I always ask them if they're car people, and they usually say they are. Then I ask them if they could ever handle downtime of a car longer than a day to gauge how serious they are about owning a fun car. If they want to have two cars, one for regular life, and one for fun then I can recommend a Honda or Toyota and a cool car too. But if it's their only car and they need it for work, I'll tell them to just bite the bullet and deal with the overpriced Honda or Toyota because they'll pay less in the long run. You just have to know who you're dealing with. If they don't know how to actually maintain a car, they're really going to struggle with a fun car. Those guys that have older fun cars usually are very good about maintenance and that's why they last. Unfortunately my Toyotas rust away like crazy, and the German cars I have don't. But yeah I'm able to do it that way and not everyone is. Sounds like your friends don't really know what they're doing.
@@mediocreman2
Rubbish, Toyota’s are very pleasant cars to drive, Toyota engines are quiet, smooth and they have more than enough power, and their automatic transmissions shift perfectly. I’ve owned several Toyotas, and none of them ever had issues with rust.
You can pretty much go into the comment section of any car channel and see this same comment. "My Toyota would never do that". Ok we get it. Not everyone wants a boring ass Toyota.
@@danielbonner8309
If “boring” means reliable, I’ll take the Toyota every day of the week, and Toyotas/Lexus are actually very pleasant cars to drive.
@@masteryoda498Exactly! Toyota/Lexus is pleasant to drive but like he said they are soulless. There’s no arguing that.
If you like fun cars then Germans if you want pleasant and boring then Toyota.
And we’ve owned brand new Rav4, wife drives aRX350, I bought IS250. But I was so bored of that cars drive and no manual I sold it in 2 months. I just bought a S4 supercharged with manual and it’s a blast to drive.
I do love the headache free ownership of Lexus. I just wish they made their IS350 with a manual then I could see myself owning it. Just 300HP alone with an Auto gas pedal of not what I would call fun.
A not so common issue is a failing fuel pump. A8 had no idle issues! It not only ran lean but had a lack of power. If the fuel can't match the air it will go lean. The fuel pump worked it just had reduced pressure. Hope this helps someone!!!
Love the channel and your shop is top notch! I’ve never seen a bladder like that for the air intake tube for the smoke machine, who makes that?
Redline Detection Easy Intake Inflatable Block Off Bladder for EVAP Test (95-0082/B) a.co/d/6BIyF9f
Fascinating.
Wow, i was betting on the Breather - only had the rear Seal on one Car, didn´t expect that on this one..
If that breather isn't repaired in time it'll blow out the rear main. Note: there's been multiple revisions of that pcv on the valve cover. Do NOT use aftermarket pcv's on Audi/VW stuff unless you like doing it multiple times 😂
That's a first for me.
Excellent video!!
thanks for the heads up
Great diagnostic video thanks for sharing this.
Thanks for posting. Question what’s labor book time replacement of the rear main seal?
ive had a few and they were caused by bad pcv valves over pressurizing the crank case
Does the Rear Main Seal need to be replaced or just the PCV Valve or both? GREAT Video! Thank-you once again!
Is the PCV system good?
Where is the video of the other Audi mentioned?
I thought this video would be of the oil consumption if I should have guessed for the thumbnail
Another good video!
Thanks for sharing
Good info
Correct me if I'm wrong, but on that engine isn't the rear main seal also the crank position sensor?
Same thing on the Chevy equinox too
Thank you sir for that info
Thanks for the info ❤
Very helpful.