I do a lot of jowell shears so I see exactly what you are dealing with. I actually work the inside ride much as you do. Work it more in the throat area and use a super coarse diamond. Just takes more than any of us would like to get that area down. Hard but not impossible to remove that much metal I dont mind if over all the tips get a little more wiped out ... as you mentioned there is a time to shorten the tips. This is one of those times.
Bonnie, in your basic sharpening process, do you work the rideline before you sharpen (create a burr) or after you sharpen? For example, Sharpen, Rideline, Polish, or what order is it on a basic sharpening? Thanks
Yes. In the beginning I did the rideline last but if I had to work the rideline a bit, it would raise a bur on the outside which is hard to remove without returning to the machine. The order I sharpen is Rideline, Sharpen, Remove the inside bur (one to 3 stroke rideline), Polish (but not over the edge), clean and check for residual burrs, cut paper before I close the shears in case I left a bur, final adjustment. Those that come for training get a "cheat sheet" laminated of the steps.
@@BonikaShears the easiest way to do it is by changing the wiring on the motor of the bench grinder that you have there , so the wheel runs away from the sharp end of the scissor so it does not bite directly into the sharp side on the scissor that way you are stropping it by working away from the sharp end and bringing it to the most finest finish you can possibly bring it with a set grit , having 2 starting switches is a way easier way of doing this hence then you don't have to play with the wiring the other way is to turn the scissor up side down in the clamp but this will most probably max out the clamp angle , as you normally have the sharp side facing up 90° to the wheel making the grinding wheel grind directly into the sharp end of the scissor which is good but when buffing you want the sharp end running in the same direction as the wheel is for the same reason as to when you had the scissor on the 4000 grit honing stone to prevent it from biting into the stone accidentally and this works the same way with the honing grit you have on the stropping wheel , the other thing i see but am not sure if it will do that on your machine , but it looks like the while clamp that is riding on the hanging arm , it looks like the hanging arm is attached to the machine itself , which if possible will also be way easier if it can just turn anti clocks if looking from the top of the machine so the arm is on the right side of the machine , that way you can keep everything just as it is and just run the wheel where it is going up rather then down , that way it will strop with the blade rather than against it another way is to take that riding arm you have that the clamp is on and just make a set degree block that you can put the whole arm on the compensate for the jig that has a set amount of play in it BUT personally if you want the least amount of modifications and least amount of headaches I would recommend taking it to a electrician and let him put a extra switch on for you that has a opposite winding setup on it so you have a motor that can do clock and anti clock rotation , if he does not want to do it , i will put a explanation for you on how to do it , but best if done by a person who knows how to do it pleas , don't want any problems LOL all the other ways you need to cut and modify on the machine which is a problem on it's own i hope this helps you , if it does not , please feel free to ask me as I will then see what modifications you need to do on that specific machine , as i personally am a free hand sharpener and have found my own ways to keeping my hands steady while doing sharpening , but awesome video the one thing I have found if a scissor is to curved in by wrong sharpening methods is to simply bight the bullet and work the curve away on a 1000 grit stone , it takes time , and it does shorten the scissor cause you are thinning it our to say the least , but it does get the curve out of the way , and then I can simply just sharpen it the rest of the way and work all the sharp edges away,
Thank you for showing this sheer.
You are welcome
Thanks for your demonstration.
I do a lot of jowell shears so I see exactly what you are dealing with. I actually work the inside ride much as you do. Work it more in the throat area and use a super coarse diamond. Just takes more than any of us would like to get that area down. Hard but not impossible to remove that much metal I dont mind if over all the tips get a little more wiped out ... as you mentioned there is a time to shorten the tips. This is one of those times.
You are so right.
Bonnie, in your basic sharpening process, do you work the rideline before you sharpen (create a burr) or after you sharpen? For example, Sharpen, Rideline, Polish, or what order is it on a basic sharpening? Thanks
Yes. In the beginning I did the rideline last but if I had to work the rideline a bit, it would raise a bur on the outside which is hard to remove without returning to the machine. The order I sharpen is Rideline, Sharpen, Remove the inside bur (one to 3 stroke rideline), Polish (but not over the edge), clean and check for residual burrs, cut paper before I close the shears in case I left a bur, final adjustment. Those that come for training get a "cheat sheet" laminated of the steps.
Thanks! very interesting..
normally reverse my wheel when I remove swarf as it is embedded .. try it
You need to shoot a video for me of how you do that.
@@BonikaShears the easiest way to do it is by changing the wiring on the motor of the bench grinder that you have there , so the wheel runs away from the sharp end of the scissor so it does not bite directly into the sharp side on the scissor that way you are stropping it by working away from the sharp end and bringing it to the most finest finish you can possibly bring it with a set grit , having 2 starting switches is a way easier way of doing this hence then you don't have to play with the wiring
the other way is to turn the scissor up side down in the clamp but this will most probably max out the clamp angle , as you normally have the sharp side facing up 90° to the wheel making the grinding wheel grind directly into the sharp end of the scissor which is good but when buffing you want the sharp end running in the same direction as the wheel is for the same reason as to when you had the scissor on the 4000 grit honing stone to prevent it from biting into the stone accidentally and this works the same way with the honing grit you have on the stropping wheel ,
the other thing i see but am not sure if it will do that on your machine , but it looks like the while clamp that is riding on the hanging arm , it looks like the hanging arm is attached to the machine itself , which if possible will also be way easier if it can just turn anti clocks if looking from the top of the machine so the arm is on the right side of the machine , that way you can keep everything just as it is and just run the wheel where it is going up rather then down , that way it will strop with the blade rather than against it
another way is to take that riding arm you have that the clamp is on and just make a set degree block that you can put the whole arm on the compensate for the jig that has a set amount of play in it
BUT personally if you want the least amount of modifications and least amount of headaches I would recommend taking it to a electrician and let him put a extra switch on for you that has a opposite winding setup on it so you have a motor that can do clock and anti clock rotation , if he does not want to do it , i will put a explanation for you on how to do it , but best if done by a person who knows how to do it pleas , don't want any problems LOL
all the other ways you need to cut and modify on the machine which is a problem on it's own
i hope this helps you , if it does not , please feel free to ask me as I will then see what modifications you need to do on that specific machine , as i personally am a free hand sharpener and have found my own ways to keeping my hands steady while doing sharpening , but awesome video
the one thing I have found if a scissor is to curved in by wrong sharpening methods is to simply bight the bullet and work the curve away on a 1000 grit stone , it takes time , and it does shorten the scissor cause you are thinning it our to say the least , but it does get the curve out of the way , and then I can simply just sharpen it the rest of the way and work all the sharp edges away,
What should you sharpen first the bevel or the rigde line?
I usually do the ride line. But there are some exceptions.
@@BonikaShears is your training on the website?
@@BonikaShears what nagura stone [grit size] can I use on a 2000 grit water stone? Does it matter the grit of nagura?
Love it thanks