Same table, same part broken, same gummed up cueing mechanism. The broken piece was rolling around in the bottom. Bonded the broken pieces back together and cleaned and lubricated the mechanism... Fingers crossed, it stays together! Thanks for the info! So many times your channel as helped me out👍👋
HA-!! The direct drive version of my old JLA20 semi-automatic belt drive table from way back in the early 80's-!! I wish id kept it, the guy I sold it to used it for another 20 years until he sold it still working fine but for a new belt and stylus - one of the lucky ones I guess.
That Nylatron material was/is a bane. The Japanese came up with it at the end of the 50s and even some American companies adopted it (General Electric) and it became a hated thing for film collectors when B&H 16mm projectors developed cracks in their main worm. Aftermarket people now offer Delrin, resin, and solid aluminum replacements. Other categories are following suit.
Wow that's just what I thought when I saw the plastic component cracked around the metal mounting post and the era when this was made. I think it was because the plastic shrank over time right? That or it was attacked by certain lubricants and oils which caused it to shrink? I still remember the pain it was to change that worm gear and that's coming from someone who has rebuilt automatic transmissions :-). Marking everything to make sure the timing wasn't off during reassembly was a real pain without the alignment jigs but I was able to do it.
@@12voltvids They didn't know it at the time and their attitude toward quality had not evolved at that point. Neither GE or others who adopted the material could have predicted it either. It was a case of it shrinking and losing elasticity as it aged. It was popular for a while as being an alternative to DuPont's Nylon while having nearly identical properties at a lower price. It took 15-20 years for the flaws to start showing. By that time many of the users had moved on to other items or outsourced their manufacturing. JVC and the others couldn't have known of the issue and most users wouldn't have cared after all those years. Life cycles for most things were considered 5 to 10 years. It took the federal government here to force automakers to make safety-related parts available for 10 years. Products today are worse. Parts may become unavailable the instant production stops - if they were ever available at all! Repair has become replace. But I sure don't have to tell you that.
It's working better than it was, so there is some improvement! To be honest I don't think the 'return' is all that important; as long as the unit plays the owner will get a bit more use out of it before it breaks and stops working. It just means manually returning and playing; no real big issue. But that's just me.
Hey love your videos been a fan for a while. Sorry to trouble you with a question but it might be an easy answer for you. I have an old Panasonic SA-CH150 midi hifi system from the early - mid 90s. While I don't use the cassette deck so often it would be nice if I could get it to work.. Is has the deck with the auto reverse head and the metal leaf spring contacts and the weird idler gear that rots out.. i've replaced the gear and cleaned the leaf springs with contact cleaner (good contact now), when i try to play a casette it just flips back and forth as if it has detected tape-end... the only thing i can think of is the original drive belt that is still on it is too worn? It does seem past its best.. before i go ordering a new belt can you think of anything i might have missed?
I have good records and garbage ones. No not the music but the record. These focus records came from the tv station i worked at. Was used as v/o music and theme music. They were all hacked up and scratched when they were discarded and i grabbed them from the trash back in 1980.
I can't believe you treat records like that... Many DD turntables will not work unless that platter is in place. It is a function of how the motor works. Could be something to do with Hall effect like the Pioneer TT like I have. It just turns back and forth without the platter on it.... I don't see how the alcohol will work. After it evaporates, it will be right back where it was. I just picked up some dielectric grease(which is silicone based) for mine, problem solved. You could always put in a tiny screw. I saw you do that on a tape deck....
It's an old beat up record that was that way when I got it. Alcohol will dillute and remove some of the sticky oil. I put a screw into a tape deck holder but that is a different type of plastic. This tyoe will shatter. Also the cueing arm takes much more stress than a cassette housing. Some DD motors will turn others won't. All has to the mass of the rotor. A heavy rotor has enough inertia to get it spinning without the platter. A small light rotor does not. I think anyone that understands turntables agrees that a heaver rotor will add to stability
@@12voltvids Yes some of the ones where the platter forms one half of the motor (has the magnet in i.e. some Technics models) should never be run without the platter, as it can damage the drive/ servo electronics.
@@12voltvids silicone grease is available. Most hardware stores would carry this. Home Depot is one. Take a look in the plumbing dept. It's sold in a small 1 inch diameter jar. Sky blue in color. If that helps anyone. Great video by the way.
@@marcushume2240 this is silicone oil not grease. It is very thick, almost like molasses. Like that stp stuff my dad used to put in his Mercedes to stop it from burning a quart of oil every 50 miles!
Yep 3d printing isn't as easy as just saying "print a part" lots of measurements and if the parts broken theres no way of knowing what its supposed to look like . Very laborious.
I've also experienced the same aging problem on many other machines. But these cracks appear on heavily charged mechanisms, and mostly when lubricant disintegrate and become sticky. You can't blame any origin, as this problem is also known on European and US machines. 3D print can eventually solve this, but it can become excessively expensive if you want precision and reliability. With precision gear, a 300$ to 1000$ machine is actually absolute no use, and most additive plastics are not that hard enough to sustain high stress. When it comes to little gears, these also rapidly give unsufficient precision and show the actual limits of additive technologies. And if you don't want to invest in a high price machine that will probably cost nothing tomorrow as the technology evolves, you can eventually try some service companies doing such job, some can print high quality resins, ceramics and now metal. Anyway, you need to create a 3D digital model and rendering files, an always time consuming task! Most actual 3D copying machines using 3D scans give poor results for precision parts. And if they are broken or incomplete, this can require special skills and another lot of hours. Don't forget the finishing time required by most of these printed parts (polishing, cleaning, curing...). Let say globally 3D printing is actually too expensive for most of these broken parts, even simple ones like these, and the absolute limit will always be the amount and cost for hours spent on 3D design and rendition for a single part. Of course, if you intend to sell dozens of these parts, it can be a relatively interesting investment, but I doubt you could find sufficient number of people here in need of these parts to repair this specific old cheap JVC turntable.
@@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez done that on my equipment and it didn't last. Might work if there is something to get it to bond with but the time I tried it with a lever it worked a few times and then just broke at the bond point.
Or another cheap turntable. I laugh at the ridiculous amount of money that people pay for old turntables. If you knew how many great turntables I've gotten for free and sold it would boggle your mind. Thorns, Dual, Akai, JVC, Technics, Sony. to think of how many of these I literally gave away or sold for 40 or $50 not anymore I figured out that people are stupid and they will pay $500 for a dual 1214 so that's what I sold my last one for because as they say there's a sucker born every minute.
@@12voltvids Some people perhaps buy vintage sound equipment for the sentimental value (for instance their father had one in the living room when they were a child), and they are not willing or able to repair/restore vintage equipment. But $500 for a Dual 1214 is too much indeed, I would not pay even $100 shipped.
I had a similar problem with my turntable the broken plastic piece was missing. I used super glue and baking soda to rebuild the small missing plastic Add superglue sprinkle baking soda add glue sprinkle baking soda keep repeating until it builds up to the required size. Work like a charm
@@12voltvids I read this and was skeptical about this 'super glue and baking soda' solution, then I found this video 'Mixing This To Super Glue Makes It 10X Stronger! DIY How To Hack!' -- the guy tested with weights on the piece of plastic. It is amazing!
Turntable still turns so he can get up off his ass and attend to it himself. That appears to be a problem with Japanese equipment, as soon as they stop making it the spares are stopped as well.
I see many dual and Garrard with totally seized metal. Metal rusts plastic doesn't. When oxygen gets to metal with some moisture. Plus the cost is higher. A metal gear might cost 1.00 a plastic one 0.02.
Same table, same part broken, same gummed up cueing mechanism. The broken piece was rolling around in the bottom. Bonded the broken pieces back together and cleaned and lubricated the mechanism... Fingers crossed, it stays together! Thanks for the info! So many times your channel as helped me out👍👋
Sir, you are doing a great job with that turntable.
Always like that Focus record.
I have the same model turntable with the same broken cue and the same other loose pieces.
It does sound very good!
Thank you for the video!
hey! can you tell me what the order of little cables colors in headshell?
HA-!! The direct drive version of my old JLA20 semi-automatic belt drive table from way back in the early 80's-!! I wish id kept it, the guy I sold it to used it for another 20 years until he sold it still working fine but for a new belt and stylus - one of the lucky ones I guess.
That Nylatron material was/is a bane. The Japanese came up with it at the end of the 50s and even some American companies adopted it (General Electric) and it became a hated thing for film collectors when B&H 16mm projectors developed cracks in their main worm. Aftermarket people now offer Delrin, resin, and solid aluminum replacements. Other categories are following suit.
Wow that's just what I thought when I saw the plastic component cracked around the metal mounting post and the era when this was made. I think it was because the plastic shrank over time right? That or it was attacked by certain lubricants and oils which caused it to shrink?
I still remember the pain it was to change that worm gear and that's coming from someone who has rebuilt automatic transmissions :-). Marking everything to make sure the timing wasn't off during reassembly was a real pain without the alignment jigs but I was able to do it.
The Japanese would NEVER make an inferior product!
@@12voltvids They didn't know it at the time and their attitude toward quality had not evolved at that point. Neither GE or others who adopted the material could have predicted it either. It was a case of it shrinking and losing elasticity as it aged.
It was popular for a while as being an alternative to DuPont's Nylon while having nearly identical properties at a lower price. It took 15-20 years for the flaws to start showing. By that time many of the users had moved on to other items or outsourced their manufacturing.
JVC and the others couldn't have known of the issue and most users wouldn't have cared after all those years. Life cycles for most things were considered 5 to 10 years. It took the federal government here to force automakers to make safety-related parts available for 10 years.
Products today are worse. Parts may become unavailable the instant production stops - if they were ever available at all! Repair has become replace.
But I sure don't have to tell you that.
I have the same record player. I did the same procedure with mine.
On the next part to break, wht not enforce with some glue?
It's working better than it was, so there is some improvement! To be honest I don't think the 'return' is all that important; as long as the unit plays the owner will get a bit more use out of it before it breaks and stops working. It just means manually returning and playing; no real big issue. But that's just me.
My record is dirty too, but I'm on probation now. :D
Magnifique!
Still a good semi automatic table.
Yip 😂
Hey love your videos been a fan for a while. Sorry to trouble you with a question but it might be an easy answer for you. I have an old Panasonic SA-CH150 midi hifi system from the early - mid 90s. While I don't use the cassette deck so often it would be nice if I could get it to work.. Is has the deck with the auto reverse head and the metal leaf spring contacts and the weird idler gear that rots out.. i've replaced the gear and cleaned the leaf springs with contact cleaner (good contact now), when i try to play a casette it just flips back and forth as if it has detected tape-end... the only thing i can think of is the original drive belt that is still on it is too worn? It does seem past its best.. before i go ordering a new belt can you think of anything i might have missed?
I'm thinking audiophiles probably won't agree with your record cleaning technique... lol....
And to think we used to use records we didn't like as frisbees.
I have good records and garbage ones. No not the music but the record. These focus records came from the tv station i worked at. Was used as v/o music and theme music. They were all hacked up and scratched when they were discarded and i grabbed them from the trash back in 1980.
@@12voltvids Dangerous weapon...
I remember when those plastic pieces would have been metal long long ago -
I can't believe you treat records like that...
Many DD turntables will not work unless that platter is in place. It is a function of how the motor works. Could be something to do with Hall effect like the Pioneer TT like I have. It just turns back and forth without the platter on it....
I don't see how the alcohol will work. After it evaporates, it will be right back where it was. I just picked up some dielectric grease(which is silicone based) for mine, problem solved.
You could always put in a tiny screw. I saw you do that on a tape deck....
It's an old beat up record that was that way when I got it.
Alcohol will dillute and remove some of the sticky oil. I put a screw into a tape deck holder but that is a different type of plastic. This tyoe will shatter. Also the cueing arm takes much more stress than a cassette housing.
Some DD motors will turn others won't. All has to the mass of the rotor. A heavy rotor has enough inertia to get it spinning without the platter. A small light rotor does not. I think anyone that understands turntables agrees that a heaver rotor will add to stability
@@12voltvids Yes some of the ones where the platter forms one half of the motor (has the magnet in i.e. some Technics models) should never be run without the platter, as it can damage the drive/ servo electronics.
@@Oldgamingfart They won't even try to start if the rotor is not there.
Where can you buy that damping fluid if you need it? Anyone know?
It's silicone oil and no i have no idea where to buy.
@@12voltvids silicone grease is available. Most hardware stores would carry this. Home Depot is one. Take a look in the plumbing dept. It's sold in a small 1 inch diameter jar. Sky blue in color. If that helps anyone. Great video by the way.
@@marcushume2240 this is silicone oil not grease. It is very thick, almost like molasses. Like that stp stuff my dad used to put in his Mercedes to stop it from burning a quart of oil every 50 miles!
@@marcushume2240 I have silicone grease but he said it takes silicone fluid. So which one is it?
@@12voltvids Thank you! Thumbs up.
Yep 3d printing isn't as easy as just saying "print a part" lots of measurements and if the parts broken theres no way of knowing what its supposed to look like . Very laborious.
I've also experienced the same aging problem on many other machines. But these cracks appear on heavily charged mechanisms, and mostly when lubricant disintegrate and become sticky. You can't blame any origin, as this problem is also known on European and US machines. 3D print can eventually solve this, but it can become excessively expensive if you want precision and reliability. With precision gear, a 300$ to 1000$ machine is actually absolute no use, and most additive plastics are not that hard enough to sustain high stress. When it comes to little gears, these also rapidly give unsufficient precision and show the actual limits of additive technologies. And if you don't want to invest in a high price machine that will probably cost nothing tomorrow as the technology evolves, you can eventually try some service companies doing such job, some can print high quality resins, ceramics and now metal. Anyway, you need to create a 3D digital model and rendering files, an always time consuming task! Most actual 3D copying machines using 3D scans give poor results for precision parts. And if they are broken or incomplete, this can require special skills and another lot of hours. Don't forget the finishing time required by most of these printed parts (polishing, cleaning, curing...). Let say globally 3D printing is actually too expensive for most of these broken parts, even simple ones like these, and the absolute limit will always be the amount and cost for hours spent on 3D design and rendition for a single part. Of course, if you intend to sell dozens of these parts, it can be a relatively interesting investment, but I doubt you could find sufficient number of people here in need of these parts to repair this specific old cheap JVC turntable.
Use epoxy and form/complete the broken part...
Nothing sticks to that white nylon type plastic.
@@12voltvids baking soda and super glue.....told you about it ages ago
@@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez done that on my equipment and it didn't last. Might work if there is something to get it to bond with but the time I tried it with a lever it worked a few times and then just broke at the bond point.
That thumbnail...
That was youtube not me. It picked a wipe transition point! There happy?
Or would you prefer the cap exploding one?
Maybe the owner will have to find a donor turn table that has the parts that he needs in good shape.
Or another cheap turntable. I laugh at the ridiculous amount of money that people pay for old turntables. If you knew how many great turntables I've gotten for free and sold it would boggle your mind. Thorns, Dual, Akai, JVC, Technics, Sony. to think of how many of these I literally gave away or sold for 40 or $50 not anymore I figured out that people are stupid and they will pay $500 for a dual 1214 so that's what I sold my last one for because as they say there's a sucker born every minute.
@@12voltvids Some people perhaps buy vintage sound equipment for the sentimental value (for instance their father had one in the living room when they were a child), and they are not willing or able to repair/restore vintage equipment. But $500 for a Dual 1214 is too much indeed, I would not pay even $100 shipped.
Or maybe he can use super glue or jb weld to fix the broken part.
Don't have the broken piece to glue back on.
I had a similar problem with my turntable the broken plastic piece was missing. I used super glue and baking soda to rebuild the small missing plastic
Add superglue sprinkle baking soda add glue sprinkle baking soda keep repeating until it builds up to the required size. Work like a charm
@@Peter12662
How does it hold up. Never tried that before. This part would get a fair bit of mechanical stress.
@@12voltvids I read this and was skeptical about this 'super glue and baking soda' solution, then I found this video 'Mixing This To Super Glue Makes It 10X Stronger! DIY How To Hack!' -- the guy tested with weights on the piece of plastic. It is amazing!
damping, not dampening.😎
Oh No its the Grammar police.
Turntable still turns so he can get up off his ass and attend to it himself. That appears to be a problem with Japanese equipment, as soon as they stop making it the spares are stopped as well.
I still think of plastic as being a poor substitute for metal.
Shame really.
I see many dual and Garrard with totally seized metal. Metal rusts plastic doesn't. When oxygen gets to metal with some moisture. Plus the cost is higher. A metal gear might cost 1.00 a plastic one 0.02.
@@12voltvids Very true, but i've never seen a bsr style record deck with rust, or broken metal parts, just concreate grease lol.