One of the best ways to clean a meter movement is: using a thin needle or not too flexible fine wire, roll it on the sticky side of masking tape so some of the adhesive sticks to it. Use that with a magnifier or eye loupe to clean the trash out of the meter movement. That is how a lot of the old meter shops did it. This is from decades of experience building, modifying and repairing panel meters. Just the adhesive sticks to the wire. Nothing that can crumble or cause further meter issues when removing trash from the movement.
Or Blu-Tak. Or whatever the trade name is in your respective countries. The low tack putty used to stick posters to your wall. A thin roll of it carefully wiped around the inside of the movement air gap picks up any particles.
Hi Alan, You hit my soft spot! ... Just sayin'. I've used a Simpson 260 for the very most times of my troubleshooting career. It is without a doubt, still, my favorite meter. (I have some of the most recent CAT rated Fluke DMMs & probes, so I can do measurements pretty much wherever I need). I have fixed literally a ton of wiring problems (and more) with my 260. I've worked on semi-conductor processing equipment with it and fixed them, and I've used it for audio circuits, for TV circuits, for aligning radios, and I've used it for underground wiring [especially ground faults] and a plethora of other stuff. It is a problem sniffer for sure. But, as you brought out in your video, understanding its limitations and how they affect a circuit is a real key. I can still remember while chasing underground wiring problems how the meter can 'swamp' a stray voltage. Alternatively I can remember that because my Simpson presented a resistance to a circuit that I was trying to measure, that without the meter, the circuit didn't work, but when I attached my meter to make a measurement, the circuit worked! ... I instantly knew that it pointed directly to the problem ... an open resistor in the circuit. In my service days, 99 times out 100, I used the Simpson. But, just once in awhile, I would get out my Fluke to make a high impedance measurement. I have a series 8MP with a roll top case. I was really upset when I received it, because of the reverse BNC connectors. I called Simpson directly, and they were able to provide me with a set of adaptors. (My work, at the time was typically low voltage work [Usually, less than 50 V], or resistance measurements). They were apprehensive at the time, but within those parameters, they were OK with sending me the adaptors. If I got to go back and do it again, the 260 would be my first tool. (I can use a dime for a screwdriver :) ) Thank you for your presentation. I'm sure I'll be watching it again. 73, Neil K7WK
Super talk Alan. There are so many parallels with the AVO meter we are more familiar with this side of the pond, pronounced A (as in ABC) VO by the way, not ARVO. Not only updated models as technology progressed but specific versions for the electrical power industry, the railways, motor trade, tropicalised versions, navy versions, air force versions as well as electronics. Unfortunately the latest craze is to drill a hole through them and stick a lamp on top, sacrilege!
Thank you! This video brought back a ton of memories, most great… some very depressing. I was first introduced to the Simpson 260 when I was working for a TV repair shop in my early teens. I was 11 when I first started and the owner was a friend of my Dad’s. He took pity on me as my family owned a very boring(to me) dress shop. I would work there on weekends and every time I was suspended from school for “disruptive tendencies” LOL. He kept me busy, paid me enough to allow me to build up a tool and instrument collection, and gave me knowledge! He also taught me how to shoot a firearm and how to safely store and handle them. Something that drove my super liberal folks crazy.. Of course, they ended up becoming ultra conservative after living in the PRNJ for so many years. (People’s Republic of NJ) His name was Paul Garafola and his store was “Suburban TV” and was located on tMain Street in Orange, NJ. The store was on the border of Orange and East Orange. 30 OR 40 Years later, on Christmas Day, I was watching the local news on tv when I saw a report of a murder. Yup… Paul was killed in the very store I spent so much time in as a kid and teen. He was in his 80’s and had adapted his store into a video rental biz as times changed. Some POS animal came in on Christmas Eve and bashed his skull in with a claw hammer. The scumbag walked away with $76 bucks and a handful of videotapes and left him there on the floor, struggling and seizing for hours. As it was Orange / Essex County and he was not on welfare with no criminal history, his murderer was no great concern to the Demoncrap political clowns running the PD and was never apprehended. Of course.
Thanks, Alan. I’ve not regretted picking up a couple of 260s despite having a bunch of DMMs and an armload of VTVMs. The best tool is the best tool for the moment at hand. I just finished going through a Drake R-4B in search of an intermittent problem. A couple of interesting measurement items emerged, though neither too surprising. The first was that DMM accuracy was certainly unnecessary, as its B+ voltages are 10-15% low and it performs just fine. The second was seeing a zero beat error of 1-2 Hz on the VTVM, which of course is inaudible. While that sort of accuracy is also unnecessary, it was cool to see it. I remain surprised by a circuit resistance measurement. The 10M DMM showed twice the specified resistance, but the 11M VTVM was on the money. Perhaps there was a distant diode junction involved; I didn’t pursue it.
Great summary. Inspired me to finally buy a vintage VOM, not Simpson but EICO like I built, used and eventually pretty much eventually ruined as a kid. Ebay $22 and seems to work fine.
Very well done! I loved how you used the slide rule as a comparison to the 'calculator' DMM. I use the slide rule regularly along with calculators in my electronics research. Both are useful, but the slide rule is more fun, and like you said, you have to THINK about the numbers you're dealing with when using the slide rule.
There are analog meters with an internal amplifier, which have an input impedance like VTVMs. They have lower ranges down to mV and mA/uA and better frequency response. But they need a battery.... So these analog meters with internal amplifiers are between true analog meters and DMMs.
One thing to watch out for if you working on vintage Radio equipment (e.g. GE Master, Master II, etc and Motorola Motran, Motrack, Syntor, MSR2000 etc) the test sets described in the manuals are not as sensitive (1000-5000V/Ohm) and using any other meter (e.g. Simpson or a modern DMM) will give in-accurate readings and will need correct loading to come close. Many newer meters have 11Mohm or higher input impedance and this can also influence your readings.
Fantastic class! I have 2 series 6 and one series 2. This was a great class for me to understand the proper use and operation of the meter. Thank you so much.
Good lecture. I am surprised you did not mention the 270. Same as the 260 but with higher tolerance resistors and better accuracy. I liberated mine from work when I retired from the industry. I have had to do some repairs to it, cleaning the switch contacts and replacing some of the resistors in the ohmmeter section, but still very accurate. One thing to note, is that these instruments were made primarily for the telecom industry. The range switch jumps from 10 to 50 volts (48 is the common voltage used in telecom in it's day.) This can be a bit frustrating if most of the equipment you work on is in the 12 volt range. Something we learned in the old days of analog instrument use is that is best to select a range on a meter that will utilize most if not all of the full scale. The meter is more accurate near full scale deflection. The frequency response of the meter is also geared more towards the 300 to 3khz area. I have never used my meter to measure line levels on a landline, but i believe that was the intention by Simpson.
One other reason for having a 260 or equivalent is that some old tube schematics specify a 20k/v device to check voltages & resistance. Great vid as always.
Excellent presentation on the history of the 260! You didn’t mention the associated 270 series. I have a 270 Series 5 that is essentially a more accurate 260 with a mirrored meter faceplate. It also came with adapters for bananas. I prefer the Triplett 630 but either is fine. I got each for $5 at the same time at a hamfest.
Low meter input impedance is a good thing to have. I have seen DMMs featuring this LoZ range, useful to get rid of stray voltages taken by capacitive or inductance pick up. The input impedance of the meter is fixed around 3k ohms using this LoZ range
This video just encouraged me to go take the batteries out of some old camera gear I had sitting in storage. Sure enough, there was a bit of electrolyte damage on some of the battery contacts! Now I'm scouring through eBay to try and find a good quality Simpson 260. I'm specifically looking for pictures of clean battery contacts and (ideally) a clean circuit board. It's much harder to tell if the meter movement is okay though.
re: more comfortable with analog meter. In my opinion, it's a matter of what one is used to. I went digital by about 1981 and never looked back. I'm more comfortable with digital meters for almost all electronic troubleshooting. Many Flukes have a center zoom for the bar graph which really helps with nulling. I use analogs occasionally like for monitoring battery charge current. Peaking is not something I do often, when I do I'm usually looking at a scope, not a multimeter.
Very awesome program. I own a 2, 3, 5, and a 7m series 260. I absolutely love them and now I understand tons more about them. Which I really needed. Thank you very much. I just gave a couple of guys in my radio club a Simpson 260 each so they can learn with them too. They are working on some tube receivers. I am a member of the Reelfoot Amateur Radio Club in northwest TN is it ok to share this video with them to help them out too? Thanks again 73, kj4unx
One trick that Avometer used to keep dirt out of the movement was to smear some vaseline on the inside over a small area on the back cover. Any dust or crud would find its way to the grease and stay there. I don't know if any American manufacturers did that, but it's a good idea.
Great presentation I really learned some valuable information thanks for the efforts, Would it be possible to have another lecture on the Simpson leakage current tester series ?
I just subscribed to what I hope will teach me how to diagnose the problems my welders generator has. Just changing parts to make it work doesn't seem like a viable option
Well the best way to deal with leaking batteries is to prevent it in the first place. Always spend the extra money and use leak proof batteries where it's important to do so.
Yes, thank you! I just learned about that after I gave this presentation - one of the NJARC members showed me that during the Q&A session we had after the presentation.
Got my simpson 260 6p for 25 bucks ! used electronics store great meter! However someone stole my Pickkett Engineering slide rule at school out of my locker Boy was I PISSED! in 1968 ! LOL. It was a yellow face with a leather covered fiberglass case, and belt loop ! never forget it Some thief at Tri-State College ,Angola Ind. However I have my dads Dietsgen Which is a collectors item THANKS ALLEN 73's KJ7TBR John new ham
When you are transporting the meter, where it is subject to vibration or shock, use this position. In this position, there is a low value shunt resistor in parallel with the meter which will dampen any movement due to shock, reducing the risk of mechanical damage.
They're easy to calibrate yourself if you have a decent DMM (pretty much any 3.5 digit DMM will be more than accurate enough) for comparison and some basic bench equipment. You can find instructions, in the form of a U.S. Army technical manual, on the Simpson260.com web site Alan mentions. Simpson also offers a calibration service if you have a 260-6 or 260-8. Check their web site for details (last check, they wanted $50 for it).
One of the best ways to clean a meter movement is: using a thin needle or not too flexible fine wire, roll it on the sticky side of masking tape so some of the adhesive sticks to it. Use that with a magnifier or eye loupe to clean the trash out of the meter movement. That is how a lot of the old meter shops did it. This is from decades of experience building, modifying and repairing panel meters. Just the adhesive sticks to the wire. Nothing that can crumble or cause further meter issues when removing trash from the movement.
Or Blu-Tak. Or whatever the trade name is in your respective countries. The low tack putty used to stick posters to your wall. A thin roll of it carefully wiped around the inside of the movement air gap picks up any particles.
Hi Alan, You hit my soft spot! ... Just sayin'. I've used a Simpson 260 for the very most times of my troubleshooting career. It is without a doubt, still, my favorite meter. (I have some of the most recent CAT rated Fluke DMMs & probes, so I can do measurements pretty much wherever I need). I have fixed literally a ton of wiring problems (and more) with my 260. I've worked on semi-conductor processing equipment with it and fixed them, and I've used it for audio circuits, for TV circuits, for aligning radios, and I've used it for underground wiring [especially ground faults] and a plethora of other stuff. It is a problem sniffer for sure. But, as you brought out in your video, understanding its limitations and how they affect a circuit is a real key. I can still remember while chasing underground wiring problems how the meter can 'swamp' a stray voltage. Alternatively I can remember that because my Simpson presented a resistance to a circuit that I was trying to measure, that without the meter, the circuit didn't work, but when I attached my meter to make a measurement, the circuit worked! ... I instantly knew that it pointed directly to the problem ... an open resistor in the circuit. In my service days, 99 times out 100, I used the Simpson. But, just once in awhile, I would get out my Fluke to make a high impedance measurement. I have a series 8MP with a roll top case. I was really upset when I received it, because of the reverse BNC connectors. I called Simpson directly, and they were able to provide me with a set of adaptors. (My work, at the time was typically low voltage work [Usually, less than 50 V], or resistance measurements). They were apprehensive at the time, but within those parameters, they were OK with sending me the adaptors. If I got to go back and do it again, the 260 would be my first tool. (I can use a dime for a screwdriver :) )
Thank you for your presentation. I'm sure I'll be watching it again. 73, Neil K7WK
Super talk Alan. There are so many parallels with the AVO meter we are more familiar with this side of the pond, pronounced A (as in ABC) VO by the way, not ARVO. Not only updated models as technology progressed but specific versions for the electrical power industry, the railways, motor trade, tropicalised versions, navy versions, air force versions as well as electronics. Unfortunately the latest craze is to drill a hole through them and stick a lamp on top, sacrilege!
That was an excellent presentation. Thank you Alan.
Fantastic presentation and refresher. Thanks for your time and effort to put this together! Take care.
One of the best explanations about the famous and better analog multimeter: Simpson 260! Thanks!
Thank you! This video brought back a ton of memories, most great… some very depressing.
I was first introduced to the Simpson 260 when I was working for a TV repair shop in my early teens.
I was 11 when I first started and the owner was a friend of my Dad’s. He took pity on me as my family owned a very boring(to me) dress shop. I would work there on weekends and every time I was suspended from school for “disruptive tendencies” LOL.
He kept me busy, paid me enough to allow me to build up a tool and instrument collection, and gave me knowledge!
He also taught me how to shoot a firearm and how to safely store and handle them.
Something that drove my super liberal folks crazy.. Of course, they ended up becoming ultra conservative after living in the PRNJ for so many years. (People’s Republic of NJ)
His name was Paul Garafola and his store was “Suburban TV” and was located on tMain Street in Orange, NJ.
The store was on the border of Orange and East Orange.
30 OR 40 Years later, on Christmas Day, I was watching the local news on tv when I saw a report of a murder.
Yup… Paul was killed in the very store I spent so much time in as a kid and teen.
He was in his 80’s and had adapted his store into a video rental biz as times changed.
Some POS animal came in on Christmas Eve and bashed his skull in with a claw hammer.
The scumbag walked away with $76 bucks and a handful of videotapes and left him there on the floor, struggling and seizing for hours.
As it was Orange / Essex County and he was not on welfare with no criminal history, his murderer was no great concern to the Demoncrap political clowns running the PD and was never apprehended.
Of course.
Thanks, Alan. I’ve not regretted picking up a couple of 260s despite having a bunch of DMMs and an armload of VTVMs. The best tool is the best tool for the moment at hand.
I just finished going through a Drake R-4B in search of an intermittent problem. A couple of interesting measurement items emerged, though neither too surprising. The first was that DMM accuracy was certainly unnecessary, as its B+ voltages are 10-15% low and it performs just fine. The second was seeing a zero beat error of 1-2 Hz on the VTVM, which of course is inaudible. While that sort of accuracy is also unnecessary, it was cool to see it.
I remain surprised by a circuit resistance measurement. The 10M DMM showed twice the specified resistance, but the 11M VTVM was on the money. Perhaps there was a distant diode junction involved; I didn’t pursue it.
Great summary. Inspired me to finally buy a vintage VOM, not Simpson but EICO like I built, used and eventually pretty much eventually ruined as a kid. Ebay $22 and seems to work fine.
I've learned things from this video that I didn't even know that I didn't know them.
Thank you!
Very well done! I loved how you used the slide rule as a comparison to the 'calculator' DMM. I use the slide rule regularly along with calculators in my electronics research. Both are useful, but the slide rule is more fun, and like you said, you have to THINK about the numbers you're dealing with when using the slide rule.
Awesome presentation! Glad I was awake enough to watch it to the end! I was up early Friday morning..... Good to see you at the "fester"
Wow, this was fun! And it was nice to know the Simpson meter has been around longer than me.
I picked up one of those instruments at a local tailgate. A fine piece of equipment indeed.
There are analog meters with an internal amplifier, which have an input impedance like VTVMs. They have lower ranges down to mV and mA/uA and better frequency response. But they need a battery.... So these analog meters with internal amplifiers are between true analog meters and DMMs.
One thing to watch out for if you working on vintage Radio equipment (e.g. GE Master, Master II, etc and Motorola Motran, Motrack, Syntor, MSR2000 etc) the test sets described in the manuals are not as sensitive (1000-5000V/Ohm) and using any other meter (e.g. Simpson or a modern DMM) will give in-accurate readings and will need correct loading to come close. Many newer meters have 11Mohm or higher input impedance and this can also influence your readings.
Fantastic class! I have 2 series 6 and one series 2. This was a great class for me to understand the proper use and operation of the meter. Thank you so much.
Good lecture. I am surprised you did not mention the 270. Same as the 260 but with higher tolerance resistors and better accuracy. I liberated mine from work when I retired from the industry. I have had to do some repairs to it, cleaning the switch contacts and replacing some of the resistors in the ohmmeter section, but still very accurate. One thing to note, is that these instruments were made primarily for the telecom industry. The range switch jumps from 10 to 50 volts (48 is the common voltage used in telecom in it's day.) This can be a bit frustrating if most of the equipment you work on is in the 12 volt range. Something we learned in the old days of analog instrument use is that is best to select a range on a meter that will utilize most if not all of the full scale. The meter is more accurate near full scale deflection. The frequency response of the meter is also geared more towards the 300 to 3khz area. I have never used my meter to measure line levels on a landline, but i believe that was the intention by Simpson.
Good morning 🌻
Thank you ☺️
One other reason for having a 260 or equivalent is that some old tube schematics specify a 20k/v device to check voltages & resistance. Great vid as always.
I work in electronics/computer recycling and bought my Model 260 series 7P for $15.. Works A okay. Glad I saved this classic bit of kit
Excellent presentation on the history of the 260! You didn’t mention the associated 270 series. I have a 270 Series 5 that is essentially a more accurate 260 with a mirrored meter faceplate. It also came with adapters for bananas. I prefer the Triplett 630 but either is fine. I got each for $5 at the same time at a hamfest.
Great buys! I need to be going to hamfests with you!
Low meter input impedance is a good thing to have. I have seen DMMs featuring this LoZ range, useful to get rid of stray voltages taken by capacitive or inductance pick up. The input impedance of the meter is fixed around 3k ohms using this LoZ range
*_Very useful information._*
This video just encouraged me to go take the batteries out of some old camera gear I had sitting in storage. Sure enough, there was a bit of electrolyte damage on some of the battery contacts! Now I'm scouring through eBay to try and find a good quality Simpson 260. I'm specifically looking for pictures of clean battery contacts and (ideally) a clean circuit board. It's much harder to tell if the meter movement is okay though.
Muy bueno !
re: more comfortable with analog meter. In my opinion, it's a matter of what one is used to. I went digital by about 1981 and never looked back. I'm more comfortable with digital meters for almost all electronic troubleshooting. Many Flukes have a center zoom for the bar graph which really helps with nulling. I use analogs occasionally like for monitoring battery charge current. Peaking is not something I do often, when I do I'm usually looking at a scope, not a multimeter.
Very awesome program. I own a 2, 3, 5, and a 7m series 260. I absolutely love them and now I understand tons more about them. Which I really needed. Thank you very much. I just gave a couple of guys in my radio club a Simpson 260 each so they can learn with them too. They are working on some tube receivers. I am a member of the Reelfoot Amateur Radio Club in northwest TN is it ok to share this video with them to help them out too? Thanks again 73, kj4unx
Sure, share this video with anyone you like!
One trick that Avometer used to keep dirt out of the movement was to smear some vaseline on the inside over a small area on the back cover. Any dust or crud would find its way to the grease and stay there. I don't know if any American manufacturers did that, but it's a good idea.
Have one? Who are you kidding? Three minimum. :)
Excellent
A staple in the test equipment arsenal of the US Navy ...
Cool! My favorite blogger)
Great presentation I really learned some valuable information thanks for the efforts, Would it be possible to have another lecture on the Simpson leakage current tester series ?
I don't have any of the leakage current testers, so it would have to wait until I have some experience with one.
I have this meter ;-)
My Triplett 630 will beat up your Simson 260 😎
LOL! That's another great meter that I'd put in the same league as the 260. I've never used/had one though - so it would an interesting compare...
Like you said NO BATTERIES except for measuring resistance.
Ok. I'm shopping at the next Hamfest. 73's KC2MDO
I just subscribed to what I hope will teach me how to diagnose the problems my welders generator has. Just changing parts to make it work doesn't seem like a viable option
Well the best way to deal with leaking batteries is to prevent it in the first place. Always spend the extra money and use leak proof batteries where it's important to do so.
Mr. Wolke, I'm afraid the continuity beeper feature is present on the 260-8P, making it a non exclusive feature of DMMs
Yes, thank you! I just learned about that after I gave this presentation - one of the NJARC members showed me that during the Q&A session we had after the presentation.
🎖
Where can you get this in Europe ?
Good explanation. Congrats! Maybe, thinking with a 260 will help prevent Alzheimer...
Got my simpson 260 6p for 25 bucks ! used electronics store great meter! However someone stole my Pickkett Engineering slide rule at school out of my locker Boy was I PISSED! in 1968 ! LOL. It was a yellow face with a leather covered fiberglass case, and belt loop ! never forget it Some thief at Tri-State College ,Angola Ind. However I have my dads Dietsgen Which is a collectors item THANKS ALLEN 73's KJ7TBR John new ham
Below the 500ma scale is "transit". What is that for?
Bob - W6OPO
When you are transporting the meter, where it is subject to vibration or shock, use this position. In this position, there is a low value shunt resistor in parallel with the meter which will dampen any movement due to shock, reducing the risk of mechanical damage.
@@w2aew Thanks Alan for the quick response and info. The Transit position is a good idea.
Thanks,
Bob - W6OPO
I have a 6 but the r1 won't zero.
You might have to clean your switch contacts.
How much would you charge to calibrate one?
I'm sorry, but I don't perform calibration services.
They're easy to calibrate yourself if you have a decent DMM (pretty much any 3.5 digit DMM will be more than accurate enough) for comparison and some basic bench equipment. You can find instructions, in the form of a U.S. Army technical manual, on the Simpson260.com web site Alan mentions. Simpson also offers a calibration service if you have a 260-6 or 260-8. Check their web site for details (last check, they wanted $50 for it).
I think, therefore I watch w2aew