I don't anticipate doing any repair work any time soon, but all these videos help me to understand the mechanics of the guitar. Really grateful for your taking the time to do these.
Hi Brian. I fixxed the popped off binding in three places on my D-18 a coupla days ago. Thank you for your excellent video on that procedure. I watched it about three times in the 7 weeks I was waiting for #20 superglue to arrive here in Canada from Stewmac. I'm real happy how the repair came out. Just one spot in the very waist on the back didn't go down all the way. But all the binding is stuck on there good. I believe it would not have gone as well had I not all of your advice in mind before and as I was doing it.
That was amazing. I am not a luthier, but everything I have seen, indicated that the back has to come off to replace a bridge plate, and/or fix braces. That is one of the least invasive repairs I have seen. Hope all is going well in Angle Fire.
That's just a matter of humidity. On this one, it closed right back up w/in a few hours. The bridgeplate itself is a massive cleat, so as long as the center seam is closed, it's going to be fine.
It looks like the top did split a little ( 40:28 ) do you have to inject glue in the gap or is it fine since it's "cleated" by the new bridgeplate & bridge?
It is so odd how things or even occurrences come in pairs. But it is a fact of happening. Repair and rebuild shops all talk about it happening. School bus accidents came in pairs where I used to work. Peculiar.
Did the spruce tear a thin layer off when u took the bridge plate off? Is that to be expected as im needing to do this for a freinds guitar n 2 of my own as this video his helping me understand the process alot
Awesome!!!!!!! The GoPro worked great & the lighting was excellent!!!!!!! You've made 2 very tough jobs look like a walk in the park, but that's also why you get paid the big bucks. Right. Question: Have you ever had to remove a bridgeplate that's been epoxied on or at some point split across the holes & repaired with epoxy? With your experience, I'll bet you've seen it at least once & I'll also bet it was a nightmare. I also have you another idea for a video. The 70's Martins all have those square steel tubes for reinforcement. I've heard that some ppl replace them with adjustable rods. I've heard that some ppl fill the tube. I've also heard rumors that you can replace it with carbon fiber shims. At any rate, it would be a cool process to see.
I HAVE done an epoxied bridgeplate and it was on a 1946 D-18, no less. And it WAS a tough one. That guitar had chronic loose X braces and the 3rd time I got it back (friend's guitar), I asked if I could just remove the back and FIX the thing. I did and I put some scalloped side stripes on the bridgeplate which glued to the X braces for additional support. Fantastic guitar.. I once sat in a motel room babysitting a '37 D-18, '39 D-18, and the '46 while the owners went to eat and the '46 was my favorite.
@@Bryankimsey I had a 46 D-18 once. I was stupid for trading it. It's a long story. I'll never forget that guitar #94159. It's about an hour east from me. I need to arrange a visitation with it sometime. lol P.S. Fun fact. I think my 73 has an epoxied bridgeplate. It has cracked across the pin holes at some point in it's life & it looks like there is clear glue in the crack. I don't know whether I should have it pulled or use a purple heart cap on it.
Very nice job! Thank you for the excellent demonstration. Two questions(which you might have answered in the video): to about what temperature do you heat your irons, and was your frozen washcloth wet when frozen?
As hot as the hot plate will go... I think it's around 400f. Yes, the washrag was wet... I think the moisture is critical for pulling the heat away. Think about "wet humid heat" vs "dry heat"- Arizona vs Maryland. Freezing is less important than "cold"... you could probably be fine just chilling the rags but I've never seen any finish checking issues, so I just freeze 'em and get a longer working time.
A little bit. I humidified it, closed it right up, before I put the new plate in. If I recall, that guitar was pretty dry but it was 4 years ago and I don't really remember that specific guitar. I do about 40 bridgeplates a year and so that was 160 bridgeplates ago... I'm constantly working to improve and for the past 2-3 years, I've been soaking the plates overnight with a wet paper towel and it helps a lot. I used to get them damp... now I soak them. I also state in my disclaimer that "bridgeplate removal is the riskiest thing I do" and give a list of the things that might happen.
Back then, probably 1/20 would develop a little split. These days... I can't remember the last one. It might've been this one!! :) And OF COURSE it happened to the one I was filming. I _did_ get some finish bubbling on an not-normal guitar last year or so and I did a video on that one. But that's getting rarer, too.
That defeats the whole purpose. The idea is to get a smaller lighter plate in there, not double the mass. For instance, check out this recent D-35: ruclips.net/video/w2xV-Vcry04/видео.html
You mention this being the single most risky repair you do. Is that specific to removing the rosewood bridgeplate, or does that pertain to a smaller maple bridgeplate like in a D18 GE as well? Or is it risky just because of the heat needed in general?
It has to do mostly with the heat required. I've never needed to take a small GE plate out, although I've had to take a few older plates out because they were cracked, or whatever. The larger the plate, the riskier it is, although lately I've been soaking them with a wet sponge overnight before heating and that's working really nice.
this man has patience, ingenuity and skill you just dont see everyday. amazing job
Saturday morning, a cup of coffee and hanging out with Bryan. Keep the faith, brother.
I love the inside shot. Like a wooden spaceship
Obviously not your "debut performance!" This is some great stuff, I've really enjoyed this repair series!
I find these videos fascinating. Great work with the GoPro! Bryan, you are a treasure.
I don't anticipate doing any repair work any time soon, but all these videos help me to understand the mechanics of the guitar. Really grateful for your taking the time to do these.
This is areally interesting video - the shots of the guitar from the inside are fascinating.
Check this one out
ruclips.net/video/8OW76RlyMjY/видео.html
Completely excellent viewing, thank you!
Patience and Tolerance ...to the max, I would stuff it up , or end up throwing something ,, ha ha , Hats of to you mate, take care
Hi Brian. I fixxed the popped off binding in three places on my D-18 a coupla days ago. Thank you for your excellent video on that procedure. I watched it about three times in the 7 weeks I was waiting for #20 superglue to arrive here in Canada from Stewmac. I'm real happy how the repair came out. Just one spot in the very waist on the back didn't go down all the way. But all the binding is stuck on there good. I believe it would not have gone as well had I not all of your advice in mind before and as I was doing it.
That was amazing. I am not a luthier, but everything I have seen, indicated that the back has to come off to replace a bridge plate, and/or fix braces. That is one of the least invasive repairs I have seen. Hope all is going well in Angle Fire.
Great video, Bryan! I learned a LOT from that
love that Concert hall effect from inside the guitar.
"Some of them resist. - Resistent is futile." ))
Amazing video... Thank you!
This was totally awesome. great job with the go pro.
This is one scary video but you are a pro!
I pulled a plate right before I read this. :)
Man, that is a violent job, came out nice but id be scared to death doing that. I think ill leave the big plank in my '71 D 28😏
Magnificent mastery.
Thank you!
Outstanding video. One my favorites. Too bad we didn't see you repair the center of the top.
That's just a matter of humidity. On this one, it closed right back up w/in a few hours. The bridgeplate itself is a massive cleat, so as long as the center seam is closed, it's going to be fine.
Thanks so much Bryan.
How much water can you get on the finished-side of the top without causing damage?
Quite a bit really. It dries fast especially if you mop it up.
It looks like the top did split a little ( 40:28 ) do you have to inject glue in the gap or is it fine since it's "cleated" by the new bridgeplate & bridge?
Humidified it and closed right up. Yes, the bridge plate is a pretty good cleat.
@@Bryankimsey Thsnks, these videos are really helpful
It is so odd how things or even occurrences come in pairs. But it is a fact of happening. Repair and rebuild shops all talk about it happening. School bus accidents came in pairs where I used to work. Peculiar.
No such thing as a coincidence!
Did the spruce tear a thin layer off when u took the bridge plate off? Is that to be expected as im needing to do this for a freinds guitar n 2 of my own as this video his helping me understand the process alot
Not if you use enough heat and pry slowly and carefully.
Awesome!!!!!!! The GoPro worked great & the lighting was excellent!!!!!!! You've made 2 very tough jobs look like a walk in the park, but that's also why you get paid the big bucks. Right. Question: Have you ever had to remove a bridgeplate that's been epoxied on or at some point split across the holes & repaired with epoxy? With your experience, I'll bet you've seen it at least once & I'll also bet it was a nightmare.
I also have you another idea for a video. The 70's Martins all have those square steel tubes for reinforcement. I've heard that some ppl replace them with adjustable rods. I've heard that some ppl fill the tube. I've also heard rumors that you can replace it with carbon fiber shims. At any rate, it would be a cool process to see.
I HAVE done an epoxied bridgeplate and it was on a 1946 D-18, no less. And it WAS a tough one. That guitar had chronic loose X braces and the 3rd time I got it back (friend's guitar), I asked if I could just remove the back and FIX the thing. I did and I put some scalloped side stripes on the bridgeplate which glued to the X braces for additional support. Fantastic guitar.. I once sat in a motel room babysitting a '37 D-18, '39 D-18, and the '46 while the owners went to eat and the '46 was my favorite.
@@Bryankimsey I had a 46 D-18 once. I was stupid for trading it. It's a long story. I'll never forget that guitar #94159. It's about an hour east from me. I need to arrange a visitation with it sometime. lol
P.S. Fun fact. I think my 73 has an epoxied bridgeplate. It has cracked across the pin holes at some point in it's life & it looks like there is clear glue in the crack. I don't know whether I should have it pulled or use a purple heart cap on it.
Very nice job! Thank you for the excellent demonstration. Two questions(which you might have answered in the video): to about what temperature do you heat your irons, and was your frozen washcloth wet when frozen?
As hot as the hot plate will go... I think it's around 400f. Yes, the washrag was wet... I think the moisture is critical for pulling the heat away. Think about "wet humid heat" vs "dry heat"- Arizona vs Maryland. Freezing is less important than "cold"... you could probably be fine just chilling the rags but I've never seen any finish checking issues, so I just freeze 'em and get a longer working time.
Thanks!! @@Bryankimsey
40:28 - I see light shining through the split center seam!
A little bit. I humidified it, closed it right up, before I put the new plate in. If I recall, that guitar was pretty dry but it was 4 years ago and I don't really remember that specific guitar. I do about 40 bridgeplates a year and so that was 160 bridgeplates ago... I'm constantly working to improve and for the past 2-3 years, I've been soaking the plates overnight with a wet paper towel and it helps a lot. I used to get them damp... now I soak them.
I also state in my disclaimer that "bridgeplate removal is the riskiest thing I do" and give a list of the things that might happen.
@@Bryankimsey thanks for the important note about humidifying before gluing and for "soaking the plates overnight with a wet paper towel" method!
Back then, probably 1/20 would develop a little split. These days... I can't remember the last one. It might've been this one!! :) And OF COURSE it happened to the one I was filming.
I _did_ get some finish bubbling on an not-normal guitar last year or so and I did a video on that one. But that's getting rarer, too.
Awesome! I've got to remove a plate on a parlor guitar. Great step by step info.
What type of gopro is that?
Session 5. I used it for my dirt bike videos too!
ruclips.net/video/tS2tt_0Hli0/видео.html
What about leaving the original bridge plate and gluing a new one directly onto it?
That defeats the whole purpose. The idea is to get a smaller lighter plate in there, not double the mass.
For instance, check out this recent D-35:
ruclips.net/video/w2xV-Vcry04/видео.html
You mention this being the single most risky repair you do. Is that specific to removing the rosewood bridgeplate, or does that pertain to a smaller maple bridgeplate like in a D18 GE as well? Or is it risky just because of the heat needed in general?
It has to do mostly with the heat required. I've never needed to take a small GE plate out, although I've had to take a few older plates out because they were cracked, or whatever. The larger the plate, the riskier it is, although lately I've been soaking them with a wet sponge overnight before heating and that's working really nice.
too much talking
Don't watch it.