Joining Urethane Round Belt - A Better Way
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Works better than the freehand manual method. Using a relatively simple aluminum jig to join polyurethane/urethane round belt. The aluminum jig also pushes the excess material flash away from the joint and up the belt, where it can be easily peeled off.
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Finding a video from you makes the day just a bit more interesting. Thanks.
Always nice to receive such a comment. Much appreciated!
Ron
Simple and "good enough" for most hobbyist or light duty applications. Some of the commercial round belt joining or welding tools are quite expensive making a little experimentation with this homemade jig well worth while. Good video!
For better alignment, the hole through should be almost the exact size as the belt, put a good chamfer on the end you are pushing the belt through to guide it in. A tapered hole would be best, say 17/64 to 1/4 inch.
Amazing how well that held thanks for sharing !
Clearly it works, but I'm surprised that polyurethane can be bonded like this, being a thermoset instead of a thermoplastic. And after some googling I see that there are thermoplastic polyurethanes as well as thermosets. You learn something new every day. :)
that was helpful. Thanks.
I wonder if you had tapered the hole halfway to 1/4 from 17/64 would have allowed you to push out the excess and get a better alignment. I have some taper reamers, that might be worth a try.
also would allow the opposite end with tighter fit to serve as a clean cutting side.
Much like trying to fit an actual ¼” pin into an actual ¼” hole, the pin may need the assistance of a hammer. I started off with a ¼” hole and thought it was too tight. Admittedly, I did not try it with the urethane heated (but in hindsight should have) thinking the gooey urethane in a ¼” would be too tight… and I was not expecting the jig to neatly slice off the excess flashing material. Then I drilled it out with the smallest next size bit I had. In any case, this results in a far superior joint than any I have accomplished freehand in the past and is quite adequate for the Senior 20 organ drive and rewind. One of the main advantages of the jig is cooling the joint rapidly. In the past, when doing this freehand, I was trying to run the joint under water.
Use a soldering pencil for a heat source. I do the joints by hand.
This is more of a belt tracking question, do you have any special geometry on the small sheave?
For both the drive and the driven sheave (or pulley) the groove in cross section is a half-circle, slightly larger than the diameter of the belt (so it doesn't pinch the belt) with the edges sanded smooth. The drive sheave (or pulley) is much smaller in diameter than the recommended minimum bend radius for the 1/4" urethane belt. This places additional stress on the joint so they will occasionally break. Thus, having two or three drive and rewind belts available is not a bad idea and do not make the belts too tight.
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That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
hello sir i have a question is it flexible ? i means i have a bike roller and im afraid if i I extended it it will break in the welding spot..
It is a pretty good joint and it takes a bit of practice just like anything else. There is a limit to how much you can stretch most anything. All you can do is try it.
This orange urethane in 6mm is what I used for my Kreitler rollers. I’m watching videos again as I now need to make another belt for a friend’s rollers I gave him.
The guide hole in the jig looks like it's too big and you still get some misalignment. Maybe drill it with the 1/4" drill, and then when you assemble it, put a little piece of shim stock between the 2 halves to open the hole up a few thou, not by a whole 64th. A couple pieces of aluminum foil (maybe folded over once or twice) would probably make a fine shim for such an application.
I was thinking along this line too. Start by leaving it at 1/4" as you said and taper the ends for easier insertion. If it still did not go in mount the 2 halves of the jig to the jaws of a vice grip or toggle clamp. Have the vice grip slightly open during insertion and toggle it shut to cool. This should put considerable pressure on the joint.
Much like trying to fit an actual ¼” pin into an actual ¼” hole, the pin may need the assistance of a hammer. I started off with a ¼” hole and thought it was too tight. Admittedly, I did not try it with the urethane heated (but in hindsight should have) thinking the gooey urethane in a ¼” would be too tight… and I was not expecting the jig to neatly slice off the excess flashing material. Then I drilled it out with the smallest next size bit I had. In any case, this results in a far superior joint than any I have accomplished freehand in the past and is quite adequate for the Senior 20 organ drive and rewind. One of the main advantages of the jig is cooling the joint rapidly. In the past, when doing this freehand, I was trying to run the joint under water.
looks like a good technique to join 3D printer filament as well
If you search eBay for "3D Printer Filament Welder Connector 1.75mm PLA ABS Filament" you will find a neat little gadget for splicing 3D filament. Look around for the best price. I think I got mine for $9.00 but haven't gotten around to testing it yet.
Simple y efectivo, muy buena idea
Great video ron, its nice seeing other people do stuff like this
clever