with regard to the difficulty we experience when connecting crocodile clips to earth bars and neutral bars its about time for manufactures to shape them differently or at least provide a test point on them
I’ve got to say, absolutely love the detail, the quality of video and above all else the attitude to the trade. Wonderful, no nonsense and rightfully appalled by the quality of ‘work’.
A nice way to null out the plugtop test lead is to get a single unswitched socket on a ptrees box and link all the terminal out with some 6mm. All you have to do then is plug in your lead and null out the leads.
Nearing the end of my apprenticeship and must say videos like this have really helped in my early years of the apprenticeship.. Thank you for the help!👍
As an IT Engineer who does electronic soldering / motherboard repair etc as a side hobby, I can appreciate the pride you take in your work. I'll def be passing this onto my younger brother , who is an electrician. Keep up the good work, all the best!
Not done any electrical testing since passing my exam last spring and have been searching the tube for full and descriptive run through me in live situations. You have the clearest, and most understable approach Thankyou Feeling more confident about tomorrow already 👍
Incredibly helpful and interesting. I especially liked the use of a socket for linking the L/N and L/E for testing the socket circuit instead of pulling the consumer unit apart.
These luxury apartments are about 10 minutes drive from my home, can guarantee they’ll be an absolute fortune to buy/rent, funny to see the standard of work! Thanks for the detailed rundown, going to come I’m handy for my upcoming 2391 later this month!
Great channel im currently studying my level 3 and your videos are very informative. As someone new to the trade they are spot on, thank you. Haven’t looked at any other videos of yours yet but i hope they can teach me a thing or two. Not sure of your goals for the channel but educating/ talking through all the testing etc is great 👌🏾👍🏾
Excellent video well balanced I totally agree with your decision not to remedy. I've been in the trade 50+ years and as soon as I saw the holes in the CU and then the dual sleeved cpc's / roughly trimmed 2'5 cables in the sockets thought 'crap'. Also with my other 'hat' on as a qualified plumber, flexi's on the expansion vessels are not allowed unless supplied by the manufacturers. Anybody remember a British Comedy from the 60's called "A home of your own" except this installation is not a comedy and those responsible should be made accountable.
Watched a lot of stuff on RUclips re Inspection and Testing but this is the best for "as it really is" rather than a test rig in a classroom. Thank you and keep up the great work
Nice and informative video. Finally showing a real world situation that today's electricians face when being asked to certificate other contractors work. To be frankly honest it probably represents about 99.9% of every sites position when it's time to test. Unfortunately electricians both as employees and for that matter employers are usually under great pressure to get the electric on as soon as possible so other trades and use there power tools. Of course this should never happen and electricians must extensively explain why an installation should not be energised before all appropriate tests are completed. As a side note I look forward to hearing if you actually got paid for you time on that day. Keep up the great videos!
Thanks for the feedback. I could have used your comment to pretty much describe this video, and don't worry, I already told my client that it's a pointless exercise before I went, I'll get paid either way. 😆
Just found your channel - because we exchanged comments on one of John Ward's videos. That was a very interesting video and raises a whole load of issues, in this case with the building industry. The very nub of it is 'accountability' and 'responsibility' - if you are the prime contractor you of course 'delegate' packages of work to sub contractors and with it the 'responsibility' to do it to spec. It does not matter how may levels of sub contracting that follow the 'responsibility' rests with the first sub contractor. However - you cannot delegate 'accountability' that is always latched to the prime contractor and cannot be 'slope shouldered'. At a practical level the installation electricians were clearly left to their own devices and were not supervised which is an abrogation of responsibility by the sub contractor and the prime contractor is accountable for allowing that situation to proceed unchecked. The site project manager probably needs a couple of size 10s up his or her arse! I am not an electrician - just a weary old professional engineer who sadly has witnessed similar stuff in lots of industries. The interesting juxtaposition is that this work has presumably been done by trained, qualified and accredited electricians - yet many sneer and warn of anyone attempting DIY household electrics - no matter their background, education and experience. Thank you for taking the time to put this together - I will subscribe and look at more. :-)
I've been told by several contractors that its still cheaper to get Romanians to install - then get fully qualified Brit to test & make-good / repair / replace sections.....?
If you take pride in your work its enjoyable, as soon as you let the quality slip you loose pride in your work and the job becomes a job, not a passion or something that can be fun. Id bin anyone 2minutes flat they leave that as their finished apartment. Also I never half ass the swa, I always gland both ends. Surface trunking the swa and gland on top correctly, not hide it like I see so many times.
There's nothing wrong with the rear knockouts. They do not need to be sealed to comply with AMD3. You only need to maintain the correct IP rating on all surfaces. You're not trying to create a fire barrier
Continuity of protective conductors including main and supplementary equipotential bonding were not carried out first. This is always the first CHECK before energising Not ZS and PSCC AT DB....
this is the UK? Incredible how many things sparky's get away with until a decent one comes along, at least you and Thomas Nagy are decent and won't take up a job unless you know how to do it correctly and if you are out of pocket because you underbidded then you eat it and still do the job correctly.
Good video. I'm an electrician myself. Quite frustrating to see shody electrical work. If electricians aren't going to do it right don't do the bloody job at all. Find a nother trade to botch up. Looking forward to your next video.
R1 + R2 does not prove polarity. If some plonker connects the Line into the CPC and the CPC in the Line terminals then you still get a reading. You could be switching the CPC at the switch instead of the line. The only way to prove polarity in these tests is to perform an R1 + RN test to prove that the LINE is indeed the LINE connected and the switch switches the LINE only
need to redo your 2391 if you don't know Continuity done on R1+Rn and R1+R2 does confirm polarity there are a few exceptions, but mostly does if you have switched and retested (lecturer / 30+ 2391 courses)
Mmm... one wonders quite what's going on in the heads of the installers/ testers. One hopes that they're capable enough (or they simply shouldn't be installing), but it would seem that their work ethics are decidedly dodgy. It takes little time extra to do things correctly rather that 'oh... it'll do', and they'd save themselves any grief PLUS their reputation as a conscientious firm would be intact. As you can't/ won't sign it off (quite right too), it may mean they'll lose out on the next development by that building contractor. Once word gets round that they're shoddy, they'll wish they'd done it correctly in the first instance. Thanks for the vid SN.
the best way to test our installation is to do and respect the protocol at every stage... and the voodo power is to love our jod because we bring the light to the pepeol house and house is our every think
To be fair about the fire rating of the dB, I was told by manufacturers that if it is provided with knock outs, then the board is rated fire proof. All the nonsense about fire rated gland for each circuit is not required. The swa not being terminated is a joke though
Only have to meet the standard ip rating of the board . You don't have to fire seal . Check hager videos on pro electrician web site that show there is no need to fire seal .
Depends on where the cables go, if the void is open and is able to traverse to another property or floor (as these buildings are multiple occupation) then yes, they would need to be fire sealed, as would all the cavities between floors etc to comply with resistance to spread of fire. Many of these cavities would also be sealed to comply with resistance to passage of sound and conservation of heat (external walls,thermal bridging etc). Many of the regulations work hand in hand with other regulations, yes it can be a pain and nuisance from insaller/contractor view and expensive for the various components needed to comply..that's the way it goes.
This comment doesn’t seem right to me as we have a metal fuse boards to stop the fire spreading so to have a hole that dose not need fire sealing seams wrong or is it just me?
Very well demonstrated as always mate. Nice 👍🏾. I’ll be resisting my AM2 fault diagnosis as I’ve failed the first attempt. Just wondered if you could give us a possible heads up on some hints, tips and some knowledge of your own to help us out.? Much appreciated. Cheers.
As a novice its was good to see you ring test at the socket with figure of 8 and not the fuse board as all other youtube videos show it done at fuse board. Is this the best way ?? Also high earth r2 reading was well explained. Thanks for great video
Single poll functional switching would then put the equipment at risk and also remove conductors from the test altogether. Functional checking can more suitably be verified with the R1&R2 check.
Nice video. With you conducting the ring final circuit test at the socket outlet then the cpc reading could be affected by parallel paths at the consumer unit .
My initial thought was that there was a parallel back to the board via the boiler pipework till I noticed that the boiler was on it's own circuit and it wasn't on a dual pattress with the ring. The electricians would have left me guessing had they not fessed up to it. Parallels are a wonderful troubleshooter.
How would you go about conducting an R1 + R2 test to confirm continuity of CPC on a lighting circuit with multiple recessed ceiling downlights? (50+ fittings). This is in the instance of a period inspection EICR not an initial verification. Would it have to be case of removing each down light and removing the cover to the connections to probe on? This would be very time consuming and very likely causing potentially damage to decorations etc. I have thought about conducting R2 wander leader lest to outer casing however there is no continuity to bottom of the painted can fittings. Furthermore a wander lead R2 test would not confirm polarity nor functional test of the switch. Interested to hear peoples thought and how they would or have done in a similar situation.
Plastic blanks in a metal enclosure, ho no, same as the plastic in side and that of the MCB and the cable, all made from plastic. The IP of the enclosure is 2X or 3X me thinks, so that is more than adequate, ie the seal around the front wont keep out fumes/fire, like the amendment states as a requirement, so ALL metal enclosures unless they are IP54 or greater are useless? The enclosure is only supposed to minimise the escape of fire/fumes, in an attempt at delaying the inevitable, to allow escape.
Hello Andrew, when doing IR tests you want the earthing and bonding connected in case any of the live conductors you are testing are leaking to earth via that route and not the cpc.
Brill! It's great that you give loads of detail. 1 question though, is it the client that asks for the initial verification, ok 2, when and if the remedial work gets done, what's to stop them asking someone else to do the testing? Many thanks.
Hi SparkyNinja! I have enjoyed your video. I am hoping that you or other electricians here could explain me what is the path to follow for a person to become an electrician in the UK? I am from Slovakia and here: 1. Start with a 3 year apprenticeship - finished with a final exam. Awarded with Craft certificate. The person at this stage is qualified but still unemployable as electrician. 2. Take the State's Health and Safety bureau's technical (electrical trade) exams. The person becomes Certified to work as electrician under supervision. Certification valid for 5 years. 3. After 2 years of proven track record , it is possible to take the State's Health and Safety bureau's technical (electrical trade) ''higher level'' exams. The person becomes Certified to work as electrician unsupervised. Certification valid for 5 years. 4. After 3 years of proven track record as Certified to work as electrician unsupervised, it is possible to take the State's Health and Safety bureau's technical (electrical trade) ''even higher level'' exams. The person becomes Certified to supervise other electricians. Certification valid for 5 years. 5. The next level is to get Certified as an Inspector. . Only inspectors do the kind of work you are doing in this video. How does the above compare to things in the UK? Thanks
Situations like this is the reason why I am slowly hating being a spark or contracting in general. The amount of times I get asked to test others peoples work is ridiculous. Most sparks I know couldn't fill out a minor works certificate correctly! They just turn the circuit on and leave.
Is that calculation doing cooker continuity right? Were'nt you suppose to multiply 20 meters by 2. 20 x 2 x 10.49 ÷ 1000. Unless you use wandering lead
I am not an electrician as such eg not qualified or registered. I have done many a first fit. I only have the old robin resistance and RCD trip tester. Even I know that installation is rubbish.. don't tell me a guy called Jeff has helped with the work.
Hello ninja Some very good pointers within your reply! To be honest. I will take your advice and stick to a proper manufacturer, even though it’ll be expensive, but that’s despite the facts, as my goal is the be excel within the electrical department and maintain long term. Many thanks. 👍🏾
My question is if its initial verification. How are you confirming everything in the tick boxes as you have not been there to verify this during installation. The only way I can see it being tested by a contractor coming in on another persons work when complete and energised would be an EICR. Then you would have no issues with things like IR as you do not need to test across load etc. I would personally go down that road list all faults problems classify them all give form back to main contractor for them to carry out remedial work. Retest and if all was rectified then issue another EICR with next date as 10 years or change of tenant etc depending on use.
Hi....I wonder if you heard anything back regarding this job?.... When carrying out such inspection works...do you feel duty bound to report such poor work and blatant disregard for rules & regs etc.. by the installation contractor, to the powers that be, namely their scheme provider? i ask because, who will prevent this sort of thing reoccuring...if nobody is made aware? Also...I would imagine that the contractor you are contracted to...will be billing the original electrical installers for any, and all, remedial works and retesting costs. I have seen better DIY installs...where everything was spot on....because the "DIYer" has no idea of what I am going to test / examine etc.. so they made sure everthing was to the regs ...
no one in the scheme providers gives a shit as long as they get there annual fee its all jobs for the boys.google how many prosecutions there are with unregistered work its a joke.
@@julieannecharters6132 it really pisses me off that as a graduate electrical and electronic engineer and a member of the IEE/IET for over 45 years, that I am no longer allowed to even touch stuff I've had to sort out in the past done by so called "professional" sparks ESPECIALLY tidying up rank awful birds nest consumer unit wiring! It makes my blood boil when I see stuff on videos like this that any dumb arsed but otherwise "competent" diy'er would likely cringe at too.
when doing Zs DB and Ipefc/Ipscc should disconnect main earth to remove parallel paths, having a Ipscc lower than Ipefc is a concern unless parallel paths, so that result means you should check, Also locking off always would be a good idea if demonstrating good practice, I know its under control but some guys may not realize that... bad practice to do ring final test at socket if you have lollypop/ bridge ring topology wouldn't know if test at socket
Parallel paths should be in place for the pefc test as they will lower circuit impedances and increase fault current. Ring final circuit test at a socket outlet is fine if you know what you are doing. Safe isolation is required where necessary.
Thanks for the video Why did you use 2 lead high and not 2 lead low? Why didn’t you use 3 lead low? Would appreciate the reply as I can’t understand this. thanks mate
SparkyNinja Great video. I was testing a property other day & I use the same tester as you - my IR test (testing individual circuits) was taking a real long time. Battery life ok - leads seem fine, I was getting 999 or 850ish. Guessing this was due to some long runs (it’s a very large property, with Fuseboard on one side of house) ? Recently plastered walls ?
Proving polarity with only a r1+r2 test..... You need to do a r1+rn and get continuity with the switch in both positions to prove that it is indeed switching the line conductor. In this installation the switch could be switching the cpc, very unlikely but you need to prove otherwise, especially in such a shoddy installation. Other than that great video!
Yeah I always argued that's test sheets should include a column for r1+rn partially for the reason you mention, also so you can prove the neutral isn't broken before energising a circuit for live tests.
Exactly there is many of craps electrician but unfortunately each electrician wants to be the best than other even sometimes there is no issue they still keep arguing.
Hi Ninja, because all the equipment had already been connected including lamps and down lights, would it be accepted on I.R to short the Live and Neutral and test against CPC? Great video's by the way. Many thanks.
Technically as the is supposed to be an inspection of a new installation, the inspection should have also been carried out during the installation, not just at the end. Therefore the IR test between live conductors should have been carried out earlier. It isn't really acceptable to have LIMs on a brand new install.
really interesting real world video, i am surprised that the designer placed the db in the tank cupboard. real chance of a leak causing some problems. is that a 2c swa cable sub main, what size is it ? i assume that a separate main earthing conductor is installed great video
If the armoured was correctly terminated at the other end and if you are relying on a separate earth and not the armouring for your main earth, would it matter if it wasn’t correctly glanded at the consumer unit end ? I know it’s good practice to do so but....?
In some instances it could be worse to have the armouring and terminated at both ends with a separate earth, this can cause induced currents in the loop. Best to have one OR the other.
yes because if a nail /screw went through the armoured and into the the line only, the rcd would trip if terminated properly at the metal board..Or an electrical shock could happen if someone touched the metal outer armoured cable..Seen this before armoured to a outside pond.
Hello ninja. Referring back to the megga Mft multimeter situation: there’s some on eBay which is already used, but looks exceptional. From experience, would you buy one from there or try and get it new?! Links
Depends really. Is the seller reputable? If they regularly sell random tools then I would question if they were stolen etc, and I would never buy from them. Can the seller verify they are their's originally - do they appear to be an electrician? Is there calibration history available? I'd always prefer to go to a distributor so I can return it if needed etc, but if the deal on ebay was too good to ignore then I would be tempted but ready to take the risk that I may get burnt. I'd never buy if I suspected them to be stolen. My wife bought me a Kewtech KT64 off of ebay once, was all legit and the seller was an electrician. Equipment was in great nick and worked a treat, unfortunately the instrument was stolen from me.
You would expect so but in this kitchen all the appliances where wired to FCU's on the kitchen side, with the exception of the fridge which was of negligible resistance due to its length.
could u please list all the problems in this video and why it is a problem. i am not a native English speaker so i appreciate the help. ur videos are very helpful in learning the details of all the lower level works as i am currently learning MEP design. keep up the good work.
Can someone answer me this please?! Regarding the cable that you rattle about in the wall - you said that it was not fixed/supported. How would one fix/support the cables in a wall. If one was clip them to the stuck then it might breach the permitted cable route zones given in the building standards. I am genuinely interested as I am an apprentice myself.
There is a difference between neat and tidy on the one hand and dangerous on the other. I didn't see anything overtly dangerous here, though lots of shoddiness and of course potential unknowns
Interesting video that I've enjoyed watching, surely the 'hidden' ring circuit JB must, in itself, be a cause for failure as I believe all mechanical joints are required to be accessible at all times for future maintenance purposes!
Question: if, for example you have a DB like in these flats and the disconnection time is 5secs for a TN supply head, then does this mean all final circuits from that DB have disconnection times of 5secs also? And incidentally what would be the disconnection time for the feed supplying the DB from the supply head DB, 0.4sec for a TN supply?
Just like to ask...As you say you are not on any of the schemes.....How do you go about signing off installations such as these? I presumed you would be a registered third party inspector? There is a document out there that advises building control of the risk of allowing a self employed electrician / inspector based on qualifications...so people may not actually have to join a scheme...they should enquire about just submitting the certificates directly to building control...and what the cost of that is.
Hi, I subcontracted to a firm who are NICEIC approved. Their QS guy would sign off any condition reports I completed and review any EIC's. I borrow their laptop where they use Amtech software, so I login and create as many certs as I want, then on the software a QS can login and sign them out. It's all a mess tbh.
Agreed about the SWA and i also would only mark it down as an observation, however, providing the IP ratings of the consumer units have not been breached, this will also conform to the specified fire integrity of the CU. Apart from that, the work looks neat, readings were well within spec so I see no reason to not issue a cert with the deviations noted.
Call me daft, but how would you terminate an SWA coming through the back of a CU. I know how to coming through the top, bottom, and sides? With regards, fire regs, say the incoming line and neutral are just tails from the meter, I watched a video where someone made a comment about the holes in the back of the CU and the fire integrity, the guy who fitted the CU commented that he used fire foam. Didn't think this would have been acceptable because this would de-rate the cable. I was told always use worse case scenario even if it's such a small area.
my only way of thinking of terminating the SWA would be to mount the CU first, remove, then cut the hole for the gland and then the standard way of terminating an SWA and re-mount the CU. Would anyone agree?
I get it's good practice not to have 2 cpc in a single bit of sleeving, but considering the sleeving is a bit larger than a single cable and it being a ring what is the problem, least they're not twisted together.
The problem is when we carry out initial verification or periodic inspection, the sleeving will have to be removed to separate the conductors from each other electrically - it's just a faff!
@@SparkyNinja also on periodic, where you are not accessing every outlet, you may get continuity / apparent integrity, but loose connection to socket terminal, Zs should highlight this and good practice on EICR to Zs every socket outlet but paired up in sleeving is bad practice
Lovely video Ninja, as perusal. However, I’ve got a question for you? I’m sitting the 2391- exam in a months time and wanted to build a rig board for testing before I sit the exam, but seemingly my tutors attitude towards the suggestion is as if they don’t want to help me in such manner! I still want to build it as my exam is on the 25 of February and would like to start testing and recording results in order to boost my confidence. Please help if you can. Just need to know how many circuits you would recommend me installing and if you’ve got a spec, please? Thank you Lincoln
Why build a rig mate , just test and record your own fuse board where you live , 👍 when home alone safely!!! And carefully test and inspect the fuse board at your property / or a family member / friend 👌
I am not completely clear yet. Were you contracting from a contractor, or were you contracting from the contractor's contractor, or were you contracting from another contractor's contractor's contractor? We need to know. We have to know. We are desperate to know. Because it is just that critical to the video. TELL US!!!
The video is lovely mate. Much oblige for competent people like yourself! Is there any chance of someone to accompany you on a few jobs to get into the skill more in depth? Lincoln
I'm an electricians mate so please forgive me if this is a stupid question but is there not a requirement for distance between sockets and sinks/baths because at 24:29 seems to close for my liking if I was washing up.
Good observation. The wiring regs do not specify distance for accessories to the sink, instead we have to consider the safe use of equipment and external influences. The IET guidance on the building regulations does specify a recommendation of 300 mm between the socket and drainer.
with regard to the difficulty we experience when connecting crocodile clips to earth bars and neutral bars its about time for manufactures to shape them differently or at least provide a test point on them
I clip a smaller uninsulated croc clips to the bar & clip my tester crocs onto those
Watching sparky struggle to put the crocs on for insulation testing is a pain I am too familiar with 🤣. Great video!
I’ve got to say, absolutely love the detail, the quality of video and above all else the attitude to the trade. Wonderful, no nonsense and rightfully appalled by the quality of ‘work’.
A nice way to null out the plugtop test lead is to get a single unswitched socket on a ptrees box and link all the terminal out with some 6mm. All you have to do then is plug in your lead and null out the leads.
Nearing the end of my apprenticeship and must say videos like this have really helped in my early years of the apprenticeship.. Thank you for the help!👍
As an IT Engineer who does electronic soldering / motherboard repair etc as a side hobby, I can appreciate the pride you take in your work. I'll def be passing this onto my younger brother , who is an electrician. Keep up the good work, all the best!
Handy you here, is there a temp to melt solder but not burn the boards? I once burnt a board as had no temperature control
Dear sir,from a fellow tester.a superb video.very concise clear and very well presented.keep up the great work and great videos.well done.
Not done any electrical testing since passing my exam last spring and have been searching the tube for full and descriptive run through me in live situations. You have the clearest, and most understable approach Thankyou
Feeling more confident about tomorrow already 👍
Incredibly helpful and interesting. I especially liked the use of a socket for linking the L/N and L/E for testing the socket circuit instead of pulling the consumer unit apart.
Bulwul- I'd only ever use that method, if the consumer unit was a bit of a bird's nest and difficult to distinguish the legs.
only problem is sometimes if the boiler spur is in the ring main
Just a higher reading at boiler spur. Not a problem. Didn’t mention no earths needed to box now.
These luxury apartments are about 10 minutes drive from my home, can guarantee they’ll be an absolute fortune to buy/rent, funny to see the standard of work! Thanks for the detailed rundown, going to come I’m handy for my upcoming 2391 later this month!
Great channel im currently studying my level 3 and your videos are very informative. As someone new to the trade they are spot on, thank you. Haven’t looked at any other videos of yours yet but i hope they can teach me a thing or two.
Not sure of your goals for the channel but educating/ talking through all the testing etc is great 👌🏾👍🏾
I always use roundhead screws in metal back box's, stops the cables potentially getting caught on the sharp edge of the counter sink head.
Keep up the great work your almost at 10,000 views I have recommended your channel to my learners thanks GSH Electrical
Love seeing it in the real world keep these coming, 👍🏻
Excellent video well balanced I totally agree with your decision not to remedy. I've been in the trade 50+ years and as soon as I saw the holes in the CU and then the dual sleeved cpc's / roughly trimmed 2'5 cables in the sockets thought 'crap'. Also with my other 'hat' on as a qualified plumber, flexi's on the expansion vessels are not allowed unless supplied by the manufacturers. Anybody remember a British Comedy from the 60's called "A home of your own" except this installation is not a comedy and those responsible should be made accountable.
Watched a lot of stuff on RUclips re Inspection and Testing but this is the best for "as it really is" rather than a test rig in a classroom. Thank you and keep up the great work
Best video I’ve watched in absolutely ages thank you!
Nice and informative video. Finally showing a real world situation that today's electricians face when being asked to certificate other contractors work. To be frankly honest it probably represents about 99.9% of every sites position when it's time to test. Unfortunately electricians both as employees and for that matter employers are usually under great pressure to get the electric on as soon as possible so other trades and use there power tools. Of course this should never happen and electricians must extensively explain why an installation should not be energised before all appropriate tests are completed. As a side note I look forward to hearing if you actually got paid for you time on that day.
Keep up the great videos!
Thanks for the feedback.
I could have used your comment to pretty much describe this video, and don't worry, I already told my client that it's a pointless exercise before I went, I'll get paid either way. 😆
SparkyNinja Nice one!
Just found your channel - because we exchanged comments on one of John Ward's videos.
That was a very interesting video and raises a whole load of issues, in this case with the building industry. The very nub of it is 'accountability' and 'responsibility' - if you are the prime contractor you of course 'delegate' packages of work to sub contractors and with it the 'responsibility' to do it to spec. It does not matter how may levels of sub contracting that follow the 'responsibility' rests with the first sub contractor. However - you cannot delegate 'accountability' that is always latched to the prime contractor and cannot be 'slope shouldered'. At a practical level the installation electricians were clearly left to their own devices and were not supervised which is an abrogation of responsibility by the sub contractor and the prime contractor is accountable for allowing that situation to proceed unchecked.
The site project manager probably needs a couple of size 10s up his or her arse!
I am not an electrician - just a weary old professional engineer who sadly has witnessed similar stuff in lots of industries.
The interesting juxtaposition is that this work has presumably been done by trained, qualified and accredited electricians - yet many sneer and warn of anyone attempting DIY household electrics - no matter their background, education and experience.
Thank you for taking the time to put this together - I will subscribe and look at more. :-)
I've been told by several contractors that its still cheaper to get Romanians to install - then get fully qualified Brit to test & make-good / repair / replace sections.....?
If you take pride in your work its enjoyable, as soon as you let the quality slip you loose pride in your work and the job becomes a job, not a passion or something that can be fun.
Id bin anyone 2minutes flat they leave that as their finished apartment. Also I never half ass the swa, I always gland both ends. Surface trunking the swa and gland on top correctly, not hide it like I see so many times.
Two earths in one sleeve is one of my pet hates. I thought that practice had died out.
And twisting the earths I've seen a few present day "Electricians" who still utilise that precious gem.
@@joefrayling9263 Yep, friend's rewire was like that. Spark was NICEIC registered...
There's nothing wrong with the rear knockouts. They do not need to be sealed to comply with AMD3. You only need to maintain the correct IP rating on all surfaces. You're not trying to create a fire barrier
I'd agree with that, Schneider doesn't though on their literature within the consumer unit.
your like a refresher course thanks for sharing your knowledge you should be teaching!
Continuity of protective conductors including main and supplementary equipotential bonding were not carried out first. This is always the first CHECK before energising Not ZS and PSCC AT DB....
this is the UK?
Incredible how many things sparky's get away with until a decent one comes along, at least you and Thomas Nagy are decent and won't take up a job unless you know how to do it correctly and if you are out of pocket because you underbidded then you eat it and still do the job correctly.
Yeah 50 Hz....Losers!!!
A superb test sir.very thorough job.well done .keep up the great work and videos.I really enjoyed it.I love testing.
Good video. I'm an electrician myself. Quite frustrating to see shody electrical work. If electricians aren't going to do it right don't do the bloody job at all. Find a nother trade to botch up. Looking forward to your next video.
R1 + R2 does not prove polarity. If some plonker connects the Line into the CPC and the CPC in the Line terminals then you still get a reading. You could be switching the CPC at the switch instead of the line. The only way to prove polarity in these tests is to perform an R1 + RN test to prove that the LINE is indeed the LINE connected and the switch switches the LINE only
Who the hell would connect the line to the Earth terminal and vice versa. Maybe you.
He explained this in the video when he said the R1+R2 test doesn’t prove polarity but the R1+RN does
need to redo your 2391 if you don't know Continuity done on R1+Rn and R1+R2 does confirm polarity there are a few exceptions, but mostly does if you have switched and retested (lecturer / 30+ 2391 courses)
Did you know a 20mm brass bush fits a 13 amp plug perfectly for nulling your lead (niceic inspector showed me)
Nice one. Thanks. (nod)
Well I called bullshit on that spent ages finding one in back of van and ok... Fair play 👍
Ashley Rothery Love it 😄
That.. Or a 50p piece works quite well.
NICE tip sir!
Mmm... one wonders quite what's going on in the heads of the installers/ testers. One hopes that they're capable enough (or they simply shouldn't be installing), but it would seem that their work ethics are decidedly dodgy.
It takes little time extra to do things correctly rather that 'oh... it'll do', and they'd save themselves any grief PLUS their reputation as a conscientious firm would be intact.
As you can't/ won't sign it off (quite right too), it may mean they'll lose out on the next development by that building contractor. Once word gets round that they're shoddy, they'll wish they'd done it correctly in the first instance.
Thanks for the vid SN.
Fantastic video mate ! Anybody saying that this is anal is no electrician. This a very useful learning tool. Thanks very much.
the best way to test our installation is to do and respect the protocol at every stage... and the voodo power is to love our jod because we bring the light to the pepeol house and house is our every think
Hello ! I am from Poland and this video is a another useful as part of my preparation for testing and inspection exams. Thank you Sir !!!
To be fair about the fire rating of the dB, I was told by manufacturers that if it is provided with knock outs, then the board is rated fire proof. All the nonsense about fire rated gland for each circuit is not required. The swa not being terminated is a joke though
Only have to meet the standard ip rating of the board . You don't have to fire seal . Check hager videos on pro electrician web site that show there is no need to fire seal .
Still crappy looking tho
TheChipmunk2008 not with the cover on 😉
Depends on where the cables go, if the void is open and is able to traverse to another property or floor (as these buildings are multiple occupation) then yes, they would need to be fire sealed, as would all the cavities between floors etc to comply with resistance to spread of fire. Many of these cavities would also be sealed to comply with resistance to passage of sound and conservation of heat (external walls,thermal bridging etc). Many of the regulations work hand in hand with other regulations, yes it can be a pain and nuisance from insaller/contractor view and expensive for the various components needed to comply..that's the way it goes.
This comment doesn’t seem right to me as we have a metal fuse boards to stop the fire spreading so to have a hole that dose not need fire sealing seams wrong or is it just me?
MCBs are not metal so why would blanks need to be? Surely it's the CU lid doing the fireproofing?
Very Interesting and informative. However, the Polarity Testing seemed to be deficient, as no proof the wires were not swapped.
Very well demonstrated as always mate. Nice 👍🏾. I’ll be resisting my AM2 fault diagnosis as I’ve failed the first attempt. Just wondered if you could give us a possible heads up on some hints, tips and some knowledge of your own to help us out.? Much appreciated. Cheers.
Great video. I only have one criticism - you forgot to lock off the main switch.
As a novice its was good to see you ring test at the socket with figure of 8 and not the fuse board as all other youtube videos show it done at fuse board. Is this the best way ?? Also high earth r2 reading was well explained. Thanks for great video
you can short out L & N to IR , then use maintanance /function switches to isolate appliances, and IR, or IR at 250V
Single poll functional switching would then put the equipment at risk and also remove conductors from the test altogether. Functional checking can more suitably be verified with the R1&R2 check.
Nice video. With you conducting the ring final circuit test at the socket outlet then the cpc reading could be affected by parallel paths at the consumer unit .
My initial thought was that there was a parallel back to the board via the boiler pipework till I noticed that the boiler was on it's own circuit and it wasn't on a dual pattress with the ring. The electricians would have left me guessing had they not fessed up to it. Parallels are a wonderful troubleshooter.
How would you go about conducting an R1 + R2 test to confirm continuity of CPC on a lighting circuit with multiple recessed ceiling downlights? (50+ fittings). This is in the instance of a period inspection EICR not an initial verification. Would it have to be case of removing each down light and removing the cover to the connections to probe on? This would be very time consuming and very likely causing potentially damage to decorations etc. I have thought about conducting R2 wander leader lest to outer casing however there is no continuity to bottom of the painted can fittings. Furthermore a wander lead R2 test would not confirm polarity nor functional test of the switch. Interested to hear peoples thought and how they would or have done in a similar situation.
I prefer to use the age old term, Zdb rather than saying Zs @ DB :-)
Plastic blanks in a metal enclosure, ho no, same as the plastic in side and that of the MCB and the cable, all made from plastic. The IP of the enclosure is 2X or 3X me thinks, so that is more than adequate, ie the seal around the front wont keep out fumes/fire, like the amendment states as a requirement, so ALL metal enclosures unless they are IP54 or greater are useless?
The enclosure is only supposed to minimise the escape of fire/fumes, in an attempt at delaying the inevitable, to allow escape.
Hi Ninja and fellow sparks. Other than properly gland off the supply SWA, what else could have been done to fire proof the board?
I wish I had this when I was at college great video. when doing the insulation resistance do you not have to disconnect the bonding cable?
Hello Andrew, when doing IR tests you want the earthing and bonding connected in case any of the live conductors you are testing are leaking to earth via that route and not the cpc.
Brill! It's great that you give loads of detail. 1 question though, is it the client that asks for the initial verification, ok 2, when and if the remedial work gets done, what's to stop them asking someone else to do the testing? Many thanks.
Hi SparkyNinja!
I have enjoyed your video.
I am hoping that you or other electricians here could explain me what is the path to follow for a person to become an electrician in the UK?
I am from Slovakia and here:
1. Start with a 3 year apprenticeship - finished with a final exam. Awarded with Craft certificate. The person at this stage is qualified but still unemployable as electrician.
2. Take the State's Health and Safety bureau's technical (electrical trade) exams. The person becomes Certified to work as electrician under supervision. Certification valid for 5 years.
3. After 2 years of proven track record , it is possible to take the State's Health and Safety bureau's technical (electrical trade) ''higher level'' exams. The person becomes Certified to work as electrician unsupervised. Certification valid for 5 years.
4. After 3 years of proven track record as Certified to work as electrician unsupervised, it is possible to take the State's Health and Safety bureau's technical (electrical trade) ''even higher level'' exams. The person becomes Certified to supervise other electricians. Certification valid for 5 years.
5. The next level is to get Certified as an Inspector. .
Only inspectors do the kind of work you are doing in this video.
How does the above compare to things in the UK?
Thanks
Situations like this is the reason why I am slowly hating being a spark or contracting in general. The amount of times I get asked to test others peoples work is ridiculous. Most sparks I know couldn't fill out a minor works certificate correctly! They just turn the circuit on and leave.
Situations like this is why I can't afford to be on the tools anymore.
@@SparkyNinja Did they not pay you for this inspection & test because you failed it?
Is that calculation doing cooker continuity right? Were'nt you suppose to multiply 20 meters by 2. 20 x 2 x 10.49 ÷ 1000. Unless you use wandering lead
I am not an electrician as such eg not qualified or registered. I have done many a first fit. I only have the old robin resistance and RCD trip tester. Even I know that installation is rubbish.. don't tell me a guy called Jeff has helped with the work.
Hello ninja
Some very good pointers within your reply! To be honest. I will take your advice and stick to a proper manufacturer, even though it’ll be expensive, but that’s despite the facts, as my goal is the be excel within the electrical department and maintain long term.
Many thanks. 👍🏾
Should you have locked off that main switch when testing bud, also , do the mains boards HAVE to be disabled hieght in a new build??
Thanks
ops, you've covered it in the next one, sry.
My question is if its initial verification. How are you confirming everything in the tick boxes as you have not been there to verify this during installation. The only way I can see it being tested by a contractor coming in on another persons work when complete and energised would be an EICR. Then you would have no issues with things like IR as you do not need to test across load etc. I would personally go down that road list all faults problems classify them all give form back to main contractor for them to carry out remedial work. Retest and if all was rectified then issue another EICR with next date as 10 years or change of tenant etc depending on use.
Hi....I wonder if you heard anything back regarding this job?....
When carrying out such inspection works...do you feel duty bound to report such poor work and blatant disregard for rules & regs etc.. by the installation contractor, to the powers that be, namely their scheme provider?
i ask because, who will prevent this sort of thing reoccuring...if nobody is made aware?
Also...I would imagine that the contractor you are contracted to...will be billing the original electrical installers for any, and all, remedial works and retesting costs.
I have seen better DIY installs...where everything was spot on....because the "DIYer" has no idea of what I am going to test / examine etc.. so they made sure everthing was to the regs ...
no one in the scheme providers gives a shit as long as they get there annual fee its all jobs for the boys.google how many prosecutions there are with unregistered work its a joke.
@@julieannecharters6132 it really pisses me off that as a graduate electrical and electronic engineer and a member of the IEE/IET for over 45 years, that I am no longer allowed to even touch stuff I've had to sort out in the past done by so called "professional" sparks ESPECIALLY tidying up rank awful birds nest consumer unit wiring! It makes my blood boil when I see stuff on videos like this that any dumb arsed but otherwise "competent" diy'er would likely cringe at too.
Calm down bob Lewis
Excellent video very detailed and informative helped me out massively keep them coming and thanks for sharing
Really love your videos you would make a great teacher
For your IR tests could you not just have dropped the volts to 250V for the circuits with delicate equipment connected?
thank you, means a lot to a novice like me
Is having to crawl over copper pipes and a water heater to access the circuit panel acceptable standards there ? this looks very dangerous to me !
nice double socket over the metal sink drainer is it for plugging in the toaster or kettle
danny wilby that’s suicide aid.
when doing Zs DB and Ipefc/Ipscc should disconnect main earth to remove parallel paths, having a Ipscc lower than Ipefc is a concern unless parallel paths, so that result means you should check, Also locking off always would be a good idea if demonstrating good practice, I know its under control but some guys may not realize that... bad practice to do ring final test at socket if you have lollypop/ bridge ring topology wouldn't know if test at socket
Parallel paths should be in place for the pefc test as they will lower circuit impedances and increase fault current. Ring final circuit test at a socket outlet is fine if you know what you are doing. Safe isolation is required where necessary.
Thanks for the video
Why did you use 2 lead high and not 2 lead low?
Why didn’t you use 3 lead low?
Would appreciate the reply as I can’t understand this. thanks mate
Just a lead configuration that was easiest. High current for scc tests.
SparkyNinja Great video. I was testing a property other day & I use the same tester as you - my IR test (testing individual circuits) was taking a real long time. Battery life ok - leads seem fine, I was getting 999 or 850ish. Guessing this was due to some long runs (it’s a very large property, with Fuseboard on one side of house) ? Recently plastered walls ?
Great explanation and clear guidance. Good job!
Proving polarity with only a r1+r2 test..... You need to do a r1+rn and get continuity with the switch in both positions to prove that it is indeed switching the line conductor. In this installation the switch could be switching the cpc, very unlikely but you need to prove otherwise, especially in such a shoddy installation. Other than that great video!
Yeah I always argued that's test sheets should include a column for r1+rn partially for the reason you mention, also so you can prove the neutral isn't broken before energising a circuit for live tests.
Are these boards amd3 compliant? As the cover can be left in the open position?? Grey area? I have often wondered whilst looking at them
Exactly there is many of craps electrician but unfortunately each electrician wants to be the best than other even sometimes there is no issue they still keep arguing.
Hi Ninja, because all the equipment had already been connected including lamps and down lights, would it be accepted on I.R to short the Live and Neutral and test against CPC? Great video's by the way. Many thanks.
Technically as the is supposed to be an inspection of a new installation, the inspection should have also been carried out during the installation, not just at the end. Therefore the IR test between live conductors should have been carried out earlier.
It isn't really acceptable to have LIMs on a brand new install.
really interesting real world video, i am surprised that the designer placed the db in the tank cupboard.
real chance of a leak causing some problems.
is that a 2c swa cable sub main, what size is it ? i assume that a separate main earthing conductor is installed
great video
im always bamboozled by the naked earth wires....i only know cables where EVERY lead is insulated :D
If the armoured was correctly terminated at the other end and if you are relying on a separate earth and not the armouring for your main earth, would it matter if it wasn’t correctly glanded at the consumer unit end ?
I know it’s good practice to do so but....?
In some instances it could be worse to have the armouring and terminated at both ends with a separate earth, this can cause induced currents in the loop. Best to have one OR the other.
yes because if a nail /screw went through the armoured and into the the line only, the rcd would trip if terminated properly at the metal board..Or an electrical shock could happen if someone touched the metal outer armoured cable..Seen this before armoured to a outside pond.
Hello ninja.
Referring back to the megga Mft multimeter situation: there’s some on eBay which is already used, but looks exceptional. From experience, would you buy one from there or try and get it new?!
Links
Depends really. Is the seller reputable? If they regularly sell random tools then I would question if they were stolen etc, and I would never buy from them. Can the seller verify they are their's originally - do they appear to be an electrician? Is there calibration history available?
I'd always prefer to go to a distributor so I can return it if needed etc, but if the deal on ebay was too good to ignore then I would be tempted but ready to take the risk that I may get burnt. I'd never buy if I suspected them to be stolen.
My wife bought me a Kewtech KT64 off of ebay once, was all legit and the seller was an electrician. Equipment was in great nick and worked a treat, unfortunately the instrument was stolen from me.
Wasn't there any low level spur controlled sockets for that kitchen ring circuit, my guess is that these would of had the highest R1+R2 readings.
You would expect so but in this kitchen all the appliances where wired to FCU's on the kitchen side, with the exception of the fridge which was of negligible resistance due to its length.
brilliant work mate, clear & simple
SOMEONE took that breaker wire out! I had one client RE-set every breaker SOOO MUCH...That all the springs were blown! People do some weird shit!!!
HELLO. I just want to know what is the box under the consumer unit, and where is conected that socket?
hmm adaptable box what is in that little buggar.
could u please list all the problems in this video and why it is a problem. i am not a native English speaker so i appreciate the help.
ur videos are very helpful in learning the details of all the lower level works as i am currently learning MEP design. keep up the good work.
Can someone answer me this please?!
Regarding the cable that you rattle about in the wall - you said that it was not fixed/supported. How would one fix/support the cables in a wall.
If one was clip them to the stuck then it might breach the permitted cable route zones given in the building standards.
I am genuinely interested as I am an apprentice myself.
The cables are run before the plasterboard goes up....so they should be clipped to studwork when fitted
Wow, that is so different from the states where don't test at all.
How did your client respond to your report? Did the apartments ever get signed off? Are you going to do a follow up video to this one?
I failed it. So I wasn't asked back. They probably found someone else.
Great video bud, such as good video for someone who is learning to test at college! Straight to the point and easy to watch
There is a difference between neat and tidy on the one hand and dangerous on the other. I didn't see anything overtly dangerous here, though lots of shoddiness and of course potential unknowns
Interesting video that I've enjoyed watching, surely the 'hidden' ring circuit JB must, in itself, be a cause for failure as I believe all mechanical joints are required to be accessible at all times for future maintenance purposes!
Question: if, for example you have a DB like in these flats and the disconnection time is 5secs for a TN supply head, then does this mean all final circuits from that DB have disconnection times of 5secs also? And incidentally what would be the disconnection time for the feed supplying the DB from the supply head DB, 0.4sec for a TN supply?
Distribution circuits are 5 seconds and final circuit are 0.4 seconds
How did the building got powered?
You know your stuff. I did my 17th edition to compliment my Gas qualification. I have total respect for the real sparks...out to the cowboys!!
I know it’s probably a silly question, but could you not carry out a insulation resistance at 250V just to check it’s good?
BS7671 requires a 500 volt insulation resistance test to be carried out
Just like to ask...As you say you are not on any of the schemes.....How do you go about signing off installations such as these? I presumed you would be a registered third party inspector? There is a document out there that advises building control of the risk of allowing a self employed electrician / inspector based on qualifications...so people may not actually have to join a scheme...they should enquire about just submitting the certificates directly to building control...and what the cost of that is.
Hi, I subcontracted to a firm who are NICEIC approved. Their QS guy would sign off any condition reports I completed and review any EIC's.
I borrow their laptop where they use Amtech software, so I login and create as many certs as I want, then on the software a QS can login and sign them out. It's all a mess tbh.
Nothing i can see wrong with that consumer unit. Conforms to current IP rating which is all that is required with fire regs.
IP ratings has nothing to do with 'Fire regs'.
The SWA is not properly terminated.
Agreed about the SWA and i also would only mark it down as an observation, however, providing the IP ratings of the consumer units have not been breached, this will also conform to the specified fire integrity of the CU.
Apart from that, the work looks neat, readings were well within spec so I see no reason to not issue a cert with the deviations noted.
Call me daft, but how would you terminate an SWA coming through the back of a CU. I know how to coming through the top, bottom, and sides? With regards, fire regs, say the incoming line and neutral are just tails from the meter, I watched a video where someone made a comment about the holes in the back of the CU and the fire integrity, the guy who fitted the CU commented that he used fire foam. Didn't think this would have been acceptable because this would de-rate the cable. I was told always use worse case scenario even if it's such a small area.
my only way of thinking of terminating the SWA would be to mount the CU first, remove, then cut the hole for the gland and then the standard way of terminating an SWA and re-mount the CU. Would anyone agree?
Craig Emmott There are fire sealing compounds for use around cables. Typically used when a run passes through a stone firewall.
Not an electrician but aren’t those sockets in the kitchen rather near to the draining part of the sink.
Regs....300mm from sink...not drainer
I get it's good practice not to have 2 cpc in a single bit of sleeving, but considering the sleeving is a bit larger than a single cable and it being a ring what is the problem, least they're not twisted together.
The problem is when we carry out initial verification or periodic inspection, the sleeving will have to be removed to separate the conductors from each other electrically - it's just a faff!
@@SparkyNinja also on periodic, where you are not accessing every outlet, you may get continuity / apparent integrity, but loose connection to socket terminal, Zs should highlight this and good practice on EICR to Zs every socket outlet but paired up in sleeving is bad practice
do you know what the plug shorting device is called? they look useful
Which cowboy has wired this or let the apprentice wire it without keeping an eye on him. I'm guessing they were the cheapest quote. Great vid pal
.
I’d put money on it. Go for the bottom quote and you get bottom feeders.
Romanians........
@@cityandsuburb Nah, board was too neat, labelled, and the polarity was correct LOL
Lovely video Ninja, as perusal. However, I’ve got a question for you? I’m sitting the 2391- exam in a months time and wanted to build a rig board for testing before I sit the exam, but seemingly my tutors attitude towards the suggestion is as if they don’t want to help me in such manner! I still want to build it as my exam is on the 25 of February and would like to start testing and recording results in order to boost my confidence. Please help if you can. Just need to know how many circuits you would recommend me installing and if you’ve got a spec, please? Thank you
Lincoln
Why build a rig mate , just test and record your own fuse board where you live , 👍 when home alone safely!!! And carefully test and inspect the fuse board at your property / or a family member / friend 👌
Great video thank you for you help and guidance
I am not completely clear yet. Were you contracting from a contractor, or were you contracting from the contractor's contractor, or were you contracting from another contractor's contractor's contractor? We need to know. We have to know. We are desperate to know. Because it is just that critical to the video. TELL US!!!
The video is lovely mate. Much oblige for competent people like yourself! Is there any chance of someone to accompany you on a few jobs to get into the skill more in depth?
Lincoln
I'm an electricians mate so please forgive me if this is a stupid question but is there not a requirement for distance between sockets and sinks/baths because at 24:29 seems to close for my liking if I was washing up.
Good observation. The wiring regs do not specify distance for accessories to the sink, instead we have to consider the safe use of equipment and external influences. The IET guidance on the building regulations does specify a recommendation of 300 mm between the socket and drainer.
SparkyNinja thankyou for the reply and thanks for the information I thought it had to be a certain distance, thanks again
SparkyNinja Isn't there a supplement or appendix for wet areas?, I'll have to double check that sometime.
Yes it should it comes under partP sockets must be 300mm from kitchen sink this includes the drainer