Wrench turner for 60 years . Steel is stronger & last longer Aluminum is lighter that't the only advantage. I had a 64 3.8 XKE the Best car every made bought in 1971 for $1000 those were the days my friend...
IIRC, the best material for engine blocks, especially for high performance production cars that are expected to be reliable, is CGI (Compacted Graphite Iron), an iron alloy used for NASCAR engines which are known for engines with even higher mean piston speeds than F-1 engines and cover longer race distances. It's not cheap though.
The main factor for rpms is weight. So if that iron is lighter than the alternatives for the same strength then yes. And while I dont know what F1 engines are made out of if its the best material shouldnt they use it as well?
@@wendwllhickey6426I believe my 2014 Honda 2.4 4 cyl is aluminum block and head. 88000 miles so far with 0 problems. Other Honda and Toyota go millions of miles with similar engines.
The introduction of nickle to an iron engine block increases it strength by at least 160% done in the R series engines from Toyota making the engine more reliable and durable and l have a 1997 Toyota Hilux with a 22R engine and it is still running really well and with its total lack of tech makes it very reliable vehicle considered one of the most reliable engines ever made simplicity over engineering equals ultimate reliability
BMW alloy engines from the 90s are engineered beautifully and are exceptionally durable... in the right hands... It is maintenance and ancillaries that condemn them, like cooling systems made of plastic that degradeand fails faster with each generation as they put in ever higher thermostats for emissions reasons, or owners who don't change oil often enough. As they went further into the 2000s they got silly with ever more complex and fragile systems. I have a 1993 M60 V8 and two 1998 straight six M52's in the driveway around 300000kms old, and they all run beautifully because they have been maintained well. Usually it's the trans or the rest of the car falling apart that condemns them to the wrecker
@@greebj ln 1997 Toyota Hilux l have the 22R engine it is a nikle iron block which is with the nikle in the iron which is suppose to be 160% stronger than an iron block we.l l guess it makes them a very reliable long lasting block 27 years and still going strong and also 437000 kilometres well that's not much for a 22R engine were most newer engines would never dream of reaching those kilometres but mine has and is good for another 437000 kilometres
It depends on what you are using it for. For conventional passenger cars and trucks, cast iron is the best, as it is more durable and more resistant to damage. For racing, aluminum is better because it is so light. It can mean the difference between winning for a few inches or coming in second by a few inches. In racing, that is all the difference in the world.
Because you can engineer around the problems that alloy engines present easier than the doubled weight of a cast iron block Especially in a world where fuel efficiency is king. If your engine is overheating, something that should not go wrong, has already gone wrong
Pfffffft steam for me all day. I drive my 1800s train engine to work every day just fine. And by the time it's started up and the boilers are making steam, and its 30hp has finished lugging it's 2 tons there, it's time to turn around and start the return journey back home 😅
Cast iron blocks are a must for boosted engines and using nitrous. Alum. blocks are 100 lb. lighter and work well with cast iron bore sleeves. FORD sella high nickel cast iron engine blocks for super high stressed usage, but the price is frighting. But both GM and FORD use alum. blocks in all their V8's. Chrysler uses cast iron blocks in all their Hemi engines even the 5.7 and the 100 lb. weight is in the front of the vehicles, right where you don't want it ! Of course, cast iron blocks are cheaper to manufacture, so there is that !
For the GM HD pickup trucks they produce iron block 6.6l l8t gasser, and yeap I have a 2012 RAM 1500 with the iron block eagle HEMI but they use aluminum cylinder heads.
Well, let's say you have a 1976 to 2000 Jaguar and you dont want to put up with all the at times unending Jag engine and transmission problems. So you do something sane and drop in a GM Small block. But you wsnt to stay in the 400 to 500 Hp (or so) range of poeer. Then an Aluminum block makes sense. Set the engine back as much as possible and with the 100 lb or do weight savings, enjoy the often noticeable better handling. Give you now optimise the benefits with upgraded tires and front end components tuned to the new better weight distribution. So there are times that a switch to An aluminum crate engine makes real sense. the tires and front end components that are
Titanium would be terrible - if scratched or scarred it will break. You also have to use only titanium on titanium - so titanium heads, valve covers, oil pan, screws it is and so on …
Iron by far. The extra durability is worth the extra 200 lbs or whatever of weight and the extra 5 mins it takes to reach operating temperature in cold weather.
The actual weight difference is much less, on average 15-17kg or less than 40 lbs because aluminum blocks needs to be thicker and more reinforced. The driving 4 answers channel discusses iron vs aluminum engine block pros & cons in more detail.
There is no simple answer. Its like asking what tire is best. It all depends on situation and purpose. Probably the most important factor is choice. Its great to have the option of selecting what material block you want to use for your application.
ya iron blocks expand more evenly during overheating events. less prone to warping. ive never heard of someone resurfacing an iron head. heck ive never heard of someone having to do a headgasket on an iron block. there are dozens of early 2000s honda civics on every fb marketplace that have over heating issues and are just a time bomb waiting to cost the next lucky teenager 1800$ to try and fix the head/gasket. iron blocks also run hotter due to lower thermal conductivity, most tuners think you want to run the engine as cool as possible to make peak power, but for fuel economy having a hotter engine is better for fuel mixing and thermodynamic efficiency. think about it, they didnt invent compressed graphite head gaskets until aluminum blocks became mainstream. naturally asperated iron blocks with the right transmission will go 400-500k miles easy until something weird breaks. most aluminium heads ive had crap out at around 200-280k miles, usually due to over heating issues and the eventual headgasket failure. you can run iron blocks at higher compression ratios which gives more fuel economy. for hwy driving, and not going over a mountain, your weight is a negligible factor for fuel economy. epa cares more about in town fuel economy, thats why everything has an AL head now. plus they dont last as long which car mfg love. Gen1 chevy volt has an all iron block. gen2 chevy volt has an aluminum head. theyre starting to get up there in miles now, gen2's are not lasting as long
Not too many manufacturers offer blocks of similar design in both aluminum and cast iron, thus restricting the options for a given application. LS engine being one of the limited few.
The inline has a low end torque advantage and better balance operating performance as well as being fuel efficient, can handle boost manly turbos and durable (mostly I6s) The v engines can fit in a variety of applications and are more sporty performance oriented engines, much like the inline engine the v engine can handle boost (supercharged and turbocharged) and can produce torque at a wide range powerband but way more over higher rpms than an online that completely tails off so flat. Depends on what you using your vehicle for.
Easy to see. Aluminium blocks corrode over time. The "color" will be lighter grey with white spickles (no panic, it won't hurt the block). Iron blocks do not change "color". Too bad if your block was painted.....
If your engine is cold, and you start it up... if the temperature raises pretty quick, its probably aluminum...if it takes awhile for that temperature hand to rise, its probably iron
The Volvo 240 series had a cast iron engine block.Life expectancy=between 300 & 500k miles.Do the math,buying a new car=aluminum block every 150-200k miles.
Aluminum engine blocks are of lighter weight than iron in a car for auto racing and by design for sub compact road cars. Neither have any performance advantage(s) over another.
I prefer cast iron blocks myself for good heat dispersing. One thing I will never have again is cast iron block with aluminum heads. Big gasket issues costing a lot of money.
an iron block will go 70-100K miles before needing a rebuild, new modern aluminum engines run for hundreds of thousands of mile before needing a rebuild.
I've own 2 stroke 90s bike, 4 stroke and modern bike with aluminum u all know 2 stroke engine need constant rebuild & it's a dry engine only runs 2 stroke oils not like 4 stroke wet engine always had 4t oil flooded. for me iron block is my choice, many things can do with iron in my experience I've used both aluminum & iron iron cost less than aluminum came to repair ( seriously) my motorcycle 90s engine got crack but can be repaired also rebored, heat treatment & Alot but when my another motorcycle engine got aluminum that only can replaced cannot be repaired it's cost Alot that price are high I've find aftermarket iron part's install it + tuned it's runs 5 year without breaking even overheating, raining water, harsh riding it hold up , I'll sell it after 5 year . if u know people work with iron block cheap price - You are safe aluminum block, engine is garbage it's not strong inaf to withstand environments like raining hit sudden hot engine it will crack and riding in summer hot aluminum can't hold up over heat condition and other more seriously telling my experience don't left without like my comments seriously
This video is misleading. 1. An Iron block is harder to repair sure, but you almost never need to because iron blocks have a nigh infinite fatigue life, meaning if you don't push them to the breaking point, you can use them forever, which is not the case for aluminum. Aluminum has a finite fatigue life, meaning every time you use it, its lifespan decreases. You don't need to push it to the breaking point, instead the breaking point comes to it in a sense. 2. Most aluminum blocks are not rebuildable. You can't just "resleeve" an aluminum block. In fact, a lot of shops will flat out refuse to resleeve your block. You wanna know why? BECAUSE THEY BREAK. You can literally split an Aluminium block like you would firewood during the resleeving process. The irony is that the sleeves are most often made of cast iron, albeit very thin. 3. Aluminum expands, A LOT. Your engine gets hot, so your bore gets larger. Your piston was sealing the bore tight when it was cold, but now that it is hot, there is a Grand Canyon between the piston rings and the cylinder wall. You don't want that. Because your exhaust will leak into your crankcase and contaminate your oil, meaning you have to change it more often. Plus, a lot of manufacturers make the pistons wider to account for thermal expansion. But now the pistons are too tight when it is cold, so your car doesn't start, or it starts but damages your sleeves each time. 4. Aluminum gets warped. Your engine block has coolant passages and areas around those passages get the best cooling while other areas are cooled less. Hot parts expand more, cooler parts expand less, and your block gets warped. When it does, it might no longer seal against the cylinder head, as a result, coolant leaks into your oil or your head gasket blows. 5. Aluminum strips. While a minor annoyance, aluminum threads get stripped because you have to torque them so high to ensure a good seal. I am pretty sure I have some other things to say but I'm sleepy.
I wouldn't be surprised. They already make part of their truck radiators plastic, so they can make more money on replacement parts. Also door handles & several other things.
Sorry to be a party pooper: You have smoked something strange! For the first: the inline six, has the most perfect balance, between primary and secondary imbalances! For the second: Most aluminium engines are in built in several layers, they are like a cake, not a single block, like iron blocks. Take a look at a Volvo or VW engine. from a Finn in Diaspora
Whether the block be iron or aluminum, I would never, ever, want an engine with the head(s) being a different material than the block - iron block & aluminum head, or aluminum block & iron head - since the 2 metals expand & contract at different rates & amounts, blown head gaskets are a perpetual problem. Another is less well known: that of corrosion, the result of 2 different metals being bolted to each other, & especially with heat & a working fluid passing between & through them. Aluminum engine blocks are also less tolerant of over-torquing, & special attention must be observed, when considering the different torquing specifications during servicing or rebuilding the 2 different types of engines. Iron engines will tend to tolerate being overheated, better than aluminum engines; more often than not, if an aluminum engine suffers a catastrophic cooling system failure, it's best to simply replace it, as everything will likely be warped & lose its temper. Most of my experience working on engines, has been in the marine field, & those engines lead a hard life, usually being operated at full throttle & load - both iron & aluminum engines will fail, but for heavy duty & long life, especially for diesels, iron is best; for outboard engines, aluminum is best due to its inherent lighter weight. I've never seen engines with the 2 different metals making up the block & head(s) have as long & relatively trouble-free life, as those made of 1 or the other single metals. Aluminum also has an additional weakness, that of its reaction to the hot water-glycol mix, if there's ever a blown head gasket, & the coolant finding its way into the cylinder(s), &/ into the crankcase - aluminum is more reactive than iron. Ofc, the bearing materials of either type of engine, simply don't tolerate that water-glycol mix at all! Air-cooled engines do have their advantages & their place in certain applications.
During the Formula One Turbo Era, BMW Used Old Seasoned Cast Iron 4 Cylinder 90CID/1500ccd Turbo Engines. At + 5 Bar circa 1500 HP on 102 RON Gasoline.
Myself aluminum is better because it can be repaired easier than cast iron....I always wondered why they never used cast steel instead of iron.... You could weld that....
No, aluminum blocks do not "burn oil' if proper oil change procedures are followed. It all depends on the piston ring material as some newer engines have piston rings that have low tension in the cylinder block, and these can cause oil burning problems at higher mileage moreso than the aluminum.
Iron block for me always, with special care taken when aluminum heads are added to the build. The only time I would go with all aluminum would be in a serious racing N/A build, where weight savings matter and rebuilds every-so-often are expected.
Also get more torque on online blocks and even ware on the cylinder walls . That’s why the Toyota Super-a inline blocks put out super car power with their turbos ….😂😂😂😂
That will only happen if we can force a ban on foreign cars and scale back CAFE, and encourage American producers to engage in Saturation Advertising the way the Japanese are doing.
Hard recicled plastik block with cooling panel 3nd fire holl for cilinder if you want totaly madnes of old technology on fuel gas or watter,,,,to many weigt components end lousing power,,,the vest us Neodium generator you hawe light mashine big power little heating end plus energyvend xxx combination gor a worck in or out...no tank no senzirs no IT no noting but from a to b in continuum 100 years PS Trouble us better shell for a car end tures witch can run 100 years
A lighter aluminum engine block hasn't reduced overall vehicle weight as other options filled weight loss. There has not been much fleet fuel economy improvement with aluminum engine blocks as they produce more power using same or more fuel. Most aluminum blocks use the open deck design that gives upper cylinder less support allowing head gasket failure. Let's not talk about older seasoned aluminum blocks that have head bolt thread failures. There is a difference between 25,000 psi and 15,000 psi material strength. At this point, aluminum is likely the cheaper OEM option. An ordinary car is not a race car nor an airplane, but it's marketing.
Aluminum blocks typically handle engine overheating conditions better than iron blocks. This is because aluminum has better thermal conductivity, meaning it can transfer heat away from the engine more efficiently than iron. Additionally, aluminum tends to have a lower coefficient of expansion, which reduces the risk of warping or cracking under extreme temperatures compared to iron. As a result, aluminum blocks are often preferred in high-performance engines or applications where heat management is crucial.
They manage heat not overheating. Everyone knows aluminum heads warp easily when overheated. The most powerful engines per cubic inch, Top Fuel dragster are cast iron.
@@foch3 Having aluminum heads with an aluminum block is better in terms of overall heat dissipation and thermal expansion compatibility. This setup ensures similar thermal expansion characteristics, potentially reducing the risk of warping or damage during overheating. And cast iron blocks are predominantly used in the most powerful drag cars because of cast iron’s superior strength allowing it to take the repeated stress imposed on the engine without cracking or warping it.
Rubbish ! Aluminium is MUCH more prone to warpage if overheated . Yes it carries heat away quicker , but once pushed too far the Engine is a Boat Anchor .
That's all so wrong. Aluminium has better thermal conductivity (W/mK) than iron but the higher thermal expansion means more damage occurs when it overheats. BMW E39 is a famous example of what happens when you pair a cooling system made of plastic parts that wear and fail and kill alloy engine headgaskets and warp blocks. With enough lazy owners who don't do preventative maintenance and run it till it fails, leaving heaps of cheap and available parts at wreckers for the rest of us, bless their hearts
![Every Engine in Motorcycle Explained | Single to Ten Cylinder Engines [Part - 1]](/img/1.gif)
I have studied this for years. I have found out that a cast iron block is made from iron, and a cast aluminum block is made from aluminum.
Thank you. I was going to post the same thing.
Funny but true
Those are profound findings. Your studies have finally paid off!
Wow ! Really!? Holy crap !!
Wrench turner for 60 years . Steel is stronger & last longer Aluminum is lighter that't the only advantage. I had a 64 3.8 XKE the Best car every made bought in 1971 for $1000 those were the days my friend...
I'm with you all the way been turning wenches now for 25 years and wouldn't give it up for the world. Cast iron are the best
You say the XKE is the best car ever? Sir have you never heard of Jaguar and their Series XJ cars of 6 and 12 cylinder?
IIRC, the best material for engine blocks, especially for high performance production cars that are expected to be reliable, is CGI (Compacted Graphite Iron), an iron alloy used for NASCAR engines which are known for engines with even higher mean piston speeds than F-1 engines and cover longer race distances. It's not cheap though.
Those engines are usually also used only once, since they're worn out after a single race.
The main factor for rpms is weight. So if that iron is lighter than the alternatives for the same strength then yes. And while I dont know what F1 engines are made out of if its the best material shouldnt they use it as well?
Ford Racing used to sell the 6 cylinder NASCAR blocks decades ago. All custom stuff.
Not crazy about the ai text to speach. But very concise and informative.
Clear and concise. Loving the insights. Keep the great content coming! 🔧
Iron block and head for me anyday.
Iron blocks don't blow head gasket as easily as aluminum overheat very easily and blows head gaskets
@@wendwllhickey6426not really aluminum can last 20+ yrs as long as you maintain and don't abuse it
@@wendwllhickey6426I believe my 2014 Honda 2.4 4 cyl is aluminum block and head. 88000 miles so far with 0 problems. Other Honda and Toyota go millions of miles with similar engines.
yep, every time. they will get you and back better than alli.
Wow nice explanation on Cylinder Block
The introduction of nickle to an iron engine block increases it strength by at least 160% done in the R series engines from Toyota making the engine more reliable and durable and l have a 1997 Toyota Hilux with a 22R engine and it is still running really well and with its total lack of tech makes it very reliable vehicle considered one of the most reliable engines ever made simplicity over engineering equals ultimate reliability
Your damn 😂 right I had the same truck it won't die😂😂 body goes first
BMW alloy engines from the 90s are engineered beautifully and are exceptionally durable... in the right hands... It is maintenance and ancillaries that condemn them, like cooling systems made of plastic that degradeand fails faster with each generation as they put in ever higher thermostats for emissions reasons, or owners who don't change oil often enough. As they went further into the 2000s they got silly with ever more complex and fragile systems.
I have a 1993 M60 V8 and two 1998 straight six M52's in the driveway around 300000kms old, and they all run beautifully because they have been maintained well. Usually it's the trans or the rest of the car falling apart that condemns them to the wrecker
@@greebj ln 1997 Toyota Hilux l have the 22R engine it is a nikle iron block which is with the nikle in the iron which is suppose to be 160% stronger than an iron block we.l l guess it makes them a very reliable long lasting block 27 years and still going strong and also 437000 kilometres well that's not much for a 22R engine were most newer engines would never dream of reaching those kilometres but mine has and is good for another 437000 kilometres
Excellent and informative. Thanks!
Very interesting video and excellent technical information quality content. Many thanks.
It depends on what you are using it for. For conventional passenger cars and trucks, cast iron is the best, as it is more durable and more resistant to damage. For racing, aluminum is better because it is so light. It can mean the difference between winning for a few inches or coming in second by a few inches. In racing, that is all the difference in the world.
'For conventional passenger cars and trucks, cast iron is the best,'
...
Nope.
@@oldbatwit5102 yep
@@Support_Ad_Blocker then why are the vast majority of car engines aluminum?
Because you can engineer around the problems that alloy engines present easier than the doubled weight of a cast iron block
Especially in a world where fuel efficiency is king.
If your engine is overheating, something that should not go wrong, has already gone wrong
Iron or aluminum/depends on what you use it for. I'm partial to all cast iron engines with carbs.
Exelente Dato 👍 Al Igual Que Los Nuevos Motores de Aleación de Aluminio Son Mas Resistentes 👉👍
Direct to the points! About your head line!
Thank you, very well done!
Which is better? Depends on the purpose of the engines intended use.
Cast iron for me, every time.
I also prefer side valve engines, drum brakes and wooden wheels with iron tyres.
bro drives a de dion
Pfffffft steam for me all day. I drive my 1800s train engine to work every day just fine.
And by the time it's started up and the boilers are making steam, and its 30hp has finished lugging it's 2 tons there, it's time to turn around and start the return journey back home 😅
Yall still using engines? All I need is my ass and a cart
Cast iron blocks are a must for boosted engines and using nitrous. Alum. blocks are 100 lb. lighter and work well with cast iron bore sleeves. FORD sella high nickel cast iron engine blocks for super high stressed usage, but the price is frighting. But both GM and FORD use alum. blocks in all their V8's. Chrysler uses cast iron blocks in all their Hemi engines even the 5.7 and the 100 lb. weight is in the front of the vehicles, right where you don't want it ! Of course, cast iron blocks are cheaper to manufacture, so there is that !
For the GM HD pickup trucks they produce iron block 6.6l l8t gasser, and yeap I have a 2012 RAM 1500 with the iron block eagle HEMI but they use aluminum cylinder heads.
Well, let's say you have a 1976 to 2000 Jaguar and you dont want to put up with all the at times unending Jag engine and transmission problems. So you do something sane and drop in a GM Small block. But you wsnt to stay in the 400 to 500 Hp (or so) range of poeer. Then an Aluminum block makes sense. Set the engine back as much as possible and with the 100 lb or do weight savings, enjoy the often noticeable better handling. Give you now
optimise the benefits with upgraded tires and front end components tuned to the new better weight distribution. So there are times that a switch to An aluminum crate engine makes real sense.
the tires and front end components that are
Titanium block has left the chat
Brilliant.
That maybe for the best
Maybe so expensive 😢
but expensive
Titanium would be terrible - if scratched or scarred it will break.
You also have to use only titanium on titanium - so titanium heads, valve covers, oil pan, screws it is and so on …
3:47 Wrong
Land Rover bought the manufacturing rights from General Motors, in 1964.
9:16 or what forces shorter vehicle turnaround time.
Does every vehicle quality video assume cars are only kept for 5 years/50k miles?
That's why 2JZ and RB are best for tuning cause of cast iron block
Iron by far. The extra durability is worth the extra 200 lbs or whatever of weight and the extra 5 mins it takes to reach operating temperature in cold weather.
The actual weight difference is much less, on average 15-17kg or less than 40 lbs because aluminum blocks needs to be thicker and more reinforced. The driving 4 answers channel discusses iron vs aluminum engine block pros & cons in more detail.
Iron is the best
Depends on what you want and how much you have to spend....
11:04
Looking Great
Tungsten block has left the chat
Generally Id say that cast iron is a better choice for a diesel while Aluminum is better suited for petrols.
This is Good and recommended
There is no simple answer. Its like asking what tire is best. It all depends on situation and purpose. Probably the most important factor is choice. Its great to have the option of selecting what material block you want to use for your application.
ya iron blocks expand more evenly during overheating events. less prone to warping. ive never heard of someone resurfacing an iron head. heck ive never heard of someone having to do a headgasket on an iron block. there are dozens of early 2000s honda civics on every fb marketplace that have over heating issues and are just a time bomb waiting to cost the next lucky teenager 1800$ to try and fix the head/gasket.
iron blocks also run hotter due to lower thermal conductivity, most tuners think you want to run the engine as cool as possible to make peak power, but for fuel economy having a hotter engine is better for fuel mixing and thermodynamic efficiency. think about it, they didnt invent compressed graphite head gaskets until aluminum blocks became mainstream. naturally asperated iron blocks with the right transmission will go 400-500k miles easy until something weird breaks. most aluminium heads ive had crap out at around 200-280k miles, usually due to over heating issues and the eventual headgasket failure.
you can run iron blocks at higher compression ratios which gives more fuel economy. for hwy driving, and not going over a mountain, your weight is a negligible factor for fuel economy. epa cares more about in town fuel economy, thats why everything has an AL head now. plus they dont last as long which car mfg love.
Gen1 chevy volt has an all iron block. gen2 chevy volt has an aluminum head. theyre starting to get up there in miles now, gen2's are not lasting as long
titanuim engine exist ?
Aluminum has only two places; pop cans and airplanes and that's IT ~~
Cast iron is the best!
A Steel engine block would be at the very least 2 Times Stronger At 40K-PSI But It Could be at 3 Times Stronger At 60K-PSI Maybe Way More
Not too many manufacturers offer blocks of similar design in both aluminum and cast iron, thus restricting the options for a given application. LS engine being one of the limited few.
I think there is only 1 LT1 Engine that is Cast Iron now and that is the L8T
@@shadowopsairman1583 Another GM engine series. The LT series is the successor to the LS.
The inline has a low end torque advantage and better balance operating performance as well as being fuel efficient, can handle boost manly turbos and durable (mostly I6s)
The v engines can fit in a variety of applications and are more sporty performance oriented engines, much like the inline engine the v engine can handle boost (supercharged and turbocharged) and can produce torque at a wide range powerband but way more over higher rpms than an online that completely tails off so flat. Depends on what you using your vehicle for.
Aluminum blocks are great if you don't mind having to replace the engine every 70K miles or so!
30YEARS DIE CAST IRON BLOCK ISUZU 4JA1 ENGINE STILL RUNNING CONDITION
How do I know if I have an aluminum or iron block?
Magnet?
Decode your VIN number. In raport should be written everything about every part of car
Easy to see. Aluminium blocks corrode over time. The "color" will be lighter grey with white spickles (no panic, it won't hurt the block). Iron blocks do not change "color". Too bad if your block was painted.....
If your engine is cold, and you start it up... if the temperature raises pretty quick, its probably aluminum...if it takes awhile for that temperature hand to rise, its probably iron
@@ronjon7942 Bingo.
The Volvo 240 series had a cast iron engine block.Life expectancy=between 300 & 500k miles.Do the math,buying a new car=aluminum block every 150-200k miles.
Aren't engine blocks cast steel?
Heads up. My 6.7 V 10 spark plug shot out of the threads. Aluminum.
I Like Mine Bullet Proof !!! 😎
Iron blocks are heavier & take longer to warm up, the alloy block & or head need skimming as the distort more
Al with Fe cylinder liners!
All thought Al blocks with the proper Harding of the cylinders are probably just as good as Fe.
They're not. They can't last nearly as long.
Aluminum engine blocks are of lighter weight than iron in a car for auto racing and by design for sub compact road cars. Neither have any performance advantage(s) over another.
But there's a huge difference in durability.
Tnx
I prefer cast iron blocks myself for good heat dispersing. One thing I will never have again is cast iron block with aluminum heads. Big gasket issues costing a lot of money.
Aluminum transfers heat better than cast iron.
LT1 is reliable with this type
Not really an issue. So many modified cars run this combination. I haven't had an issue in 20 years of doing this.
Offcourse cast iron if durability, long life and cost frindly one needed.
İf performance needed with light weight so aluminum
an iron block will go 70-100K miles before needing a rebuild, new modern aluminum engines run for hundreds of thousands of mile before needing a rebuild.
Give me one of those Vega aluminum motors... It's a matter of fact give me about six of them.. so I can get through a season
I've own 2 stroke 90s bike, 4 stroke and modern bike with aluminum
u all know 2 stroke engine need constant rebuild & it's a dry engine only runs 2 stroke oils not like 4 stroke wet engine always had 4t oil flooded.
for me iron block is my choice,
many things can do with iron
in my experience I've used both aluminum & iron
iron cost less than aluminum came to repair ( seriously)
my motorcycle 90s engine got crack but can be repaired also rebored, heat treatment & Alot but when my another motorcycle engine got aluminum that only can replaced cannot be repaired it's cost Alot that price are high
I've find aftermarket iron part's install it + tuned it's runs 5 year without breaking even overheating, raining water, harsh riding it hold up , I'll sell it after 5 year .
if u know people work with iron block cheap price - You are safe
aluminum block, engine is garbage it's not strong inaf to withstand environments like raining hit sudden hot engine it will crack and riding in summer hot aluminum can't hold up over heat condition and other more
seriously telling my experience don't left without like my comments seriously
Will aluminum engines catch fire over time? I'm bout to purchase a 6.2 Lt
This video is misleading.
1. An Iron block is harder to repair sure, but you almost never need to because iron blocks have a nigh infinite fatigue life, meaning if you don't push them to the breaking point, you can use them forever, which is not the case for aluminum. Aluminum has a finite fatigue life, meaning every time you use it, its lifespan decreases. You don't need to push it to the breaking point, instead the breaking point comes to it in a sense.
2. Most aluminum blocks are not rebuildable. You can't just "resleeve" an aluminum block. In fact, a lot of shops will flat out refuse to resleeve your block. You wanna know why? BECAUSE THEY BREAK. You can literally split an Aluminium block like you would firewood during the resleeving process. The irony is that the sleeves are most often made of cast iron, albeit very thin.
3. Aluminum expands, A LOT. Your engine gets hot, so your bore gets larger. Your piston was sealing the bore tight when it was cold, but now that it is hot, there is a Grand Canyon between the piston rings and the cylinder wall. You don't want that. Because your exhaust will leak into your crankcase and contaminate your oil, meaning you have to change it more often. Plus, a lot of manufacturers make the pistons wider to account for thermal expansion. But now the pistons are too tight when it is cold, so your car doesn't start, or it starts but damages your sleeves each time.
4. Aluminum gets warped. Your engine block has coolant passages and areas around those passages get the best cooling while other areas are cooled less. Hot parts expand more, cooler parts expand less, and your block gets warped. When it does, it might no longer seal against the cylinder head, as a result, coolant leaks into your oil or your head gasket blows.
5. Aluminum strips. While a minor annoyance, aluminum threads get stripped because you have to torque them so high to ensure a good seal.
I am pretty sure I have some other things to say but I'm sleepy.
Iron block for boost, aluminum for n/a...
In the future they will make it from plastic 😂
Ford probably already is.....
Plastic is bad for the enviromente. They will make it out of cardboard.
I wouldn't be surprised. They already make part of their truck radiators plastic, so they can make more money on replacement parts. Also door handles & several other things.
Imagine diamond block 😂
Very Good!... #113 ✝ {4-4-2024}
You forgot to mention rotary engines.
They suk..lol jjk..
Sorry to be a party pooper: You have smoked something strange!
For the first: the inline six, has the most perfect balance, between primary and secondary imbalances!
For the second: Most aluminium engines are in built in several layers, they are like a cake,
not a single block, like iron blocks.
Take a look at a Volvo or VW engine.
from a Finn in Diaspora
wrong
👌👌👌💐🇮🇳
Aluminum block four seasons
Cast Iron
Whether the block be iron or aluminum, I would never, ever, want an engine with the head(s) being a different material than the block - iron block & aluminum head, or aluminum block & iron head - since the 2 metals expand & contract at different rates & amounts, blown head gaskets are a perpetual problem.
Another is less well known: that of corrosion, the result of 2 different metals being bolted to each other, & especially with heat & a working fluid passing between & through them.
Aluminum engine blocks are also less tolerant of over-torquing, & special attention must be observed, when considering the different torquing specifications during servicing or rebuilding the 2 different types of engines.
Iron engines will tend to tolerate being overheated, better than aluminum engines; more often than not, if an aluminum engine suffers a catastrophic cooling system failure, it's best to simply replace it, as everything will likely be warped & lose its temper.
Most of my experience working on engines, has been in the marine field, & those engines lead a hard life, usually being operated at full throttle & load - both iron & aluminum engines will fail, but for heavy duty & long life, especially for diesels, iron is best; for outboard engines, aluminum is best due to its inherent lighter weight.
I've never seen engines with the 2 different metals making up the block & head(s) have as long & relatively trouble-free life, as those made of 1 or the other single metals.
Aluminum also has an additional weakness, that of its reaction to the hot water-glycol mix, if there's ever a blown head gasket, & the coolant finding its way into the cylinder(s), &/ into the crankcase - aluminum is more reactive than iron.
Ofc, the bearing materials of either type of engine, simply don't tolerate that water-glycol mix at all!
Air-cooled engines do have their advantages & their place in certain applications.
you really know nothing about engines
Most of what he said on inline vs V engines is actually wrong.
Chevy Vega
During the Formula One Turbo Era, BMW Used Old Seasoned Cast Iron 4 Cylinder 90CID/1500ccd Turbo Engines. At + 5 Bar circa 1500 HP on 102 RON Gasoline.
Cast iron
Never had alloy always cast iron.
AluminIUm
AGK DTS Hypo Economist Konzept Institut maison des associations Thüringen united Germany.
Schweig.
Myself aluminum is better because it can be repaired easier than cast iron....I always wondered why they never used cast steel instead of iron.... You could weld that....
A cracked block can't be repaired. Aluminum blocks always have a much shorter lifespan.
Duh.
Metal engine blocks are best.
Wooden engine block
As opposed to wood or plastic, yes.
Some WILD inaccuracies here . Not bad as an Overview for the totally uninformed though , being a concise synopsis .
There are no aluminium submarines😅.
cast iron. aluminum is lighter but not stronger
Titanium is good for marine use and straight 6 or 8 is best with OHV and flat engine blocks suck too much cylinder wear and valve wear
What about when it’s cold I heard a aluminum block will flex a little vs a steal or cast iron will just crack
Been through several cold spouts and never had a problem
Actually, the aluminum block is notorious for cracking, not the cast iron.
When comparing two items, one may be better, but neither is best.
Cast iron engine block and cast iron cylinder heads == no blown head gaskets.
that's totally false, I've blown way more gaskets on iron then aluminum
Does Aluminum blocks burns oil?
No, aluminum blocks do not "burn oil' if proper oil change procedures are followed. It all depends on the piston ring material as some newer engines have piston rings that have low tension in the cylinder block, and these can cause oil burning problems at higher mileage moreso than the aluminum.
Is this ai
Inline blocks don’t ware the cylinders walls like v blocks….
You mean Wear.
Iron block for me always, with special care taken when aluminum heads are added to the build. The only time I would go with all aluminum would be in a serious racing N/A build, where weight savings matter and rebuilds every-so-often are expected.
Titanium is hard to machine. The tooling costs are astronomical, hence expensive to buy but low scrap price... ( was, but i am an old timer)
I would opt for a hybrid block made of iron,aluminum,and titanium, but my wallet left the chat.
my choice is a block made of chrome alloy steel
Also get more torque on online blocks and even ware on the cylinder walls . That’s why the Toyota Super-a inline blocks put out super car power with their turbos ….😂😂😂😂
They need to start back making Cast Iron Engine Blocks back on American Vehicles, instead of the Piece of Shit Aluminum!
That will only happen if we can force a ban on foreign cars and scale back CAFE, and encourage American producers to engage in Saturation Advertising the way the Japanese are doing.
AL is for cars to me
AI generated crap, hence spam
I perfer iron block.i always buy a car with iron block engine
Hard recicled plastik block with cooling panel 3nd fire holl for cilinder if you want totaly madnes of old technology on fuel gas or watter,,,,to many weigt components end lousing power,,,the vest us Neodium generator you hawe light mashine big power little heating end plus energyvend xxx combination gor a worck in or out...no tank no senzirs no IT no noting but from a to b in continuum 100 years
PS
Trouble us better shell for a car end tures witch can run 100 years
Gray cast... aluminum is junk...cheap and lite wait.
Learn how to spell.
1st comment
for children it is important?
vadakkan6390
where is the comment?
he's 35 and nervous because something hasn't “dropped” yet.....😂😂
Ford triton v-8 with aluminum heads, spark plug blowing pieces of garbage Typical: Found On Road Dead
Fix
Or
Repair
Daily
Found
Off
Road
Dead (looking at the Raptor fanboys)😂😂😂
cast iron for diesel engines
A lighter aluminum engine block hasn't reduced overall vehicle weight as other options filled weight loss. There has not been much fleet fuel economy improvement with aluminum engine blocks as they produce more power using same or more fuel. Most aluminum blocks use the open deck design that gives upper cylinder less support allowing head gasket failure. Let's not talk about older seasoned aluminum blocks that have head bolt thread failures. There is a difference between 25,000 psi and 15,000 psi material strength. At this point, aluminum is likely the cheaper OEM option. An ordinary car is not a race car nor an airplane, but it's marketing.
Aluminum blocks typically handle engine overheating conditions better than iron blocks. This is because aluminum has better thermal conductivity, meaning it can transfer heat away from the engine more efficiently than iron. Additionally, aluminum tends to have a lower coefficient of expansion, which reduces the risk of warping or cracking under extreme temperatures compared to iron. As a result, aluminum blocks are often preferred in high-performance engines or applications where heat management is crucial.
They manage heat not overheating. Everyone knows aluminum heads warp easily when overheated. The most powerful engines per cubic inch, Top Fuel dragster are cast iron.
Ive thought my aluminum block was inferior to iron for a long time because of strength, but I’d much rather have better cooling.
@@foch3 Having aluminum heads with an aluminum block is better in terms of overall heat dissipation and thermal expansion compatibility. This setup ensures similar thermal expansion characteristics, potentially reducing the risk of warping or damage during overheating. And cast iron blocks are predominantly used in the most powerful drag cars because of cast iron’s superior strength allowing it to take the repeated stress imposed on the engine without cracking or warping it.
Rubbish ! Aluminium is MUCH more prone to warpage if overheated . Yes it carries heat away quicker , but once pushed too far the Engine is a Boat Anchor .
That's all so wrong. Aluminium has better thermal conductivity (W/mK) than iron but the higher thermal expansion means more damage occurs when it overheats.
BMW E39 is a famous example of what happens when you pair a cooling system made of plastic parts that wear and fail and kill alloy engine headgaskets and warp blocks. With enough lazy owners who don't do preventative maintenance and run it till it fails, leaving heaps of cheap and available parts at wreckers for the rest of us, bless their hearts
Aluminum as long as it’s taken care of. It’s soft material so I’m sure if neglected it falls apart sooner