California’s Deep History with Surfing | Lost LA | Season 3 | Episode 3

Dick Metz's lifelong love of surfing began in the 1930s, when he took up surfing. He founded the Surfing Heritage and Culture Center as a way to document the sport's pioneers and innovations over the years. We talk about California surfing's early days with Duke Kahanamoku and George Freeth, the technological advances of the surfboard and how the concept of lifeguarding contributed to having fun in the sun as we know it today.

[@smokey1255]

I have a picture of my dad and Duke when Dad was 15 (1931) standing at some beach holding up their surfboards which were so long they towered over the guys. I wish I had Dad's old board. Dad taught me to swim in the ocean not after I learned how to walk (early 1950's) and tried to teach me how to board surf. Unfortunately, I was born with a ballance problem and couldn't stay on the board evenon a smooth sea. He did teach me how to body surf and I got pretty good at that. Mostly he taught me not to be afraid of the ocean.

[@wiscgaloot]

20 years or so ago, at San Onofre, I saw a 14 year old boy surfing like crazy, he was an amazingly good longboarder. Someone I talked to said that the kid's grandfather was "one of those boys you see in the old pictures, with Duke Kahanamoku". I can't remember the kid's name, and he'd be 34 now. I wish I remembered the name...as far as "no surfing in California before Freeth and the Duke", that isn't quite true. Three Hawaiian princes were attending a military academy in San Mateo in 1885 and apparently went over to Santa Cruz, got some redwood, made surfboards, and paddled out and surfed SC!

[@Californiansurfer]

❤Yes, I was working in Stockton and visited Santa Cruz surf museum and they had an event. It was for Surf City name. Which I didnt’ know , I was they guy ask me, who let you in? I was wearing my Huntington Beach surf museum shirt. I didn’t know. They guys we laughed it off, but I didnt’ know there was a law suite for the name Surf City. Yes, Santa Cruz should of gotten name Surf City, but we Southern California , or weather I surf all year long. 2012 to 2020. I worked in Mishawaka indiana and my co worker said, we surf out here. Yea, right. Well, he had the surfboard and a 5mm wetsuit. I surfed the lakes in Michagan. The third coast surf shop, I did t that for three years and made so many friends. Then, meet the guys from Chicago shapers. Well, we had to wait for storm.s. Today, I surf HB pier north side and when the guys cry about no waves, you have no idea.. I am the guy taking all the white water and having so much fun. I let the other guys wait for the big ones.. Nov 5 to 11 Paralagic Olympics 2023. I volunteered and passing on the stoke. Californian Surfer Downey Cali.. ❤❤❤