Great video. Now I can check mine, they have the same problem as yours. Never read full. It’s amazing that rv’s have had sensor problems for ever and they keep using the same junk system. As many as they build you would think someone would come up with a better more reliable system. Thanks for showing us how to check and replace these little devils.
This is the first video I have watched on this issue. My tanks are reading full when I know they are empty. I will be changing my sensors, your video has given me the confidence needed to approach this issue. Very nice JD. Thank you.
Great video man. I learned a lot. Most these other guys want to play music and intros and spend ten minutes talking about something else. Then they go trust the repair mechanics and get screwed lol. Hey, I been eyeballing that stool, also! Is that the harbor freight one? It’s literally on my list right now. Need to remove my wooden chair in the trailer and get a lower profile chair for my desk and I think that would be perfect. Cudos to you, though for this video. I actually felt compelled to sign in and comment for several reasons! My Travel trailer grey tank shows 1/3rd full after I emptied it, for the first time today. I’ve probably dumped it 30 times by now and this is the first time anything weird ever happened like that. Maybe a food particle stuck on the sensors or something. Need to investigate. My tank it not exposed however. It’s under the trailer above the chloroplast liner. I’ll have to get dirty and go under there and unscrew and pull the liner back a ways to investigate. Which leads me to say.. Yes this is a brand new 2020 trailer and yes I’ve had tons of problems with it since day once. The first thing wrong is the ac never worked at all from the get go and I’m in Florida! They didn’t listen to me on the walkthrough and sent me home bad. My fault I didn’t speak up louder about why the ac doesn’t cool down. Lesson learned. Replaced the ac unit myself. Super not easy when it weighs 85lbs and has to be lifted 13’ in the air. I broke a rib while removing the replacement. I’ve found pieces of the ceiling stuck in the plumbing pipes and keeping my grey valve from fully closing as well as many many other issues. These things are built by completely incompetent people and obviously QC is out the window. People like you and me are what makes this possible. Guys who eff off the mechanics and learn how to take care of business and share it with the rest of the world.
Great video. Very helpful. I like that you didn't leave out any surprises to your project allowing the veiwer to see what you did to get through those. Great job
Maybe I missed something, but I didn't see any part of replacement. I saw how he pried out the old one but didn't show how it was actually held in or how to put the new ones in.
@@mr7badass sorry if I missed that part but when you remove the old one there is a hole left that the new ones slides into and when you tighten the nut it pulls and expands the rubber to seal the hole.
Thank you for the video., I have the same problem with my black always reading 2/3 full. I have also found out that those sensors can be installed upside down. That plastic hood should be a "roof" for the sensor and not a floor. (if that makes sense) I noticed that yours were installed upside down (from the factory)
Debby, good catch. It's also notable to mention that the notch in the end of the threaded shaft is used to determine the position of the hood/tent. i.e. not only used for grabbing with pliers as the host mentioned.
My RV sensors are literally changing levels within minutes/seconds and nothing has changed. I really wish I could change these myself. I don't trust the dealers either besides the $100+/hr price tag. I really think they made these rigs so you have to come back frequently for repairs. I've never heard anyone say "I've never had one problem with my rig".
Which is the reason I dont beat myself up for not buying a new one. I've always purchased fairly old models knowing im going to need to fix probably near everything imaginable anyway. Here this poor guy buys a brand new RV and is having the same issues im having with my 2006 model Jayco. no leaks in mine yet, but I keep it in a machine shop.
So it’s been abit since you posted this tech tip and it’s excellent! But let me ask you this. My coach is two years old and the fresh water tank is under the bed. So I had it out to dewinterize it and sanitize the fresh water tank. My panel said it was empty. Would it be the same scenario as your waste tanks? It seemed in your video you only replaced the white wire sensor unless i missed something. Is it just as easy to pull out a faulty sensor rather than drill next to the original and install a new one. I thought you’d crack the tank but didn’t. Any advice would help. I’ve seen nothing on the fresh water tanks but only black and grey. Thanks.
First of all I have never had any issues with my freshwater tank sensors and I haven't heard of anybody having any problems, but I guess it's entirely possible, as far as replacing the sensors, I'm sure they are the same as the ones in the other tanks and they're not that hard to remove. I would try to replace them in the same holes rather than drill new holes. I would also check the wires.
I wouldn't of known that until I went into replace them because they had failed and if they're upside down that's the way they came from the manufacturer of the motorhome so obviously they have employees that don't know how to install them and should be trained
I have the opposite problem where my grey tank always shows 1/3 full when empty. I've tried the dish washing detergent, various chemicals, etc. with no luck so until I get my butt under my trailer, I'm assuming the tank is gunked up on the inside because it only does this after we start a new trip. The black tank never has this issue. Must be the fiber! BTW, I have a Forest River trailer that is 6 years old and yes, I did have many nit picking problems since the very first day I bought it brand new. If you RV, you'd better be handy with tools.
I got lines to the kitchen sink busted and the lines by the water heater broke out too, the parts are expensive and the crimping tool alost 70 dollars, after repairs and tools n parts about 150. Better then technician coming to fix same would of been over 500 bucks, plus i have the tool for my own repairs , hey. Saved alot doing it myself, sure its frustrating, but what the heck, look at it broke down and pay a bundo at around 100$ an hour plus a 100 just to come and look at it, no way jose, next fix is the sensors and thank you for an eye opener .miguel from lorain ohio with a jayco 2005 nice condition got for 4500. New it cost 15k or so
Hey jdgrover1 how are your new tank level sensors doing? I see its been over a year since you posted your video showing how to replace them. My tanks never show empty when I know for a fact that they are. I'm little surprised at the fancy original equipment sensors corroded that much. Not so fancy after all eh.
jdgrover1 I just pulled the underbelly off my fifth wheel to fix a leak on the gray tank. It turns out that the sensors are easy to get to and replace.
Both tanks had that type of sensor and I know some people said they were upside down but that's the way it came from the manufacturer of the motorhome, so I would have to say the manufacturer doesn't have employees that are taught how to install them. Either way they failed and the video was not so much about the type of sensor as it was how to test them and replace them.
OK let me see if I can explain your old switch the reason that it is modified is because it matches the opening of the sensor housing it would appear that when you install that sensor if you do not wanna have any waste products collecting on top of the sensor ….that you would turn it in the down direction.
These are not "sensors" they are literally conductive pieces of metal that allows for a change in reported voltage (and in turn resistance which is a set value for the monitoring panel). They are literally nothing more than screws with round heads. It would pay to read the documentation on the KIB tank monitoring systems (and similar). They are literally nothing more than threaded studs with rounded heads who allow for a measurable conductivity. The issue is them getting dirty, not needing replacement, they're just metal pieces, not "sensors" but are just conductors. Clean your tanks, don't go through this mess. These types of systems are notorious for providing unreliable / inaccurate readings because they get dirty from insufficient tank maintenance, and even then, from the factory can produce inconsistent readings. Always use septic-safe paper and use ample amounts of water when flushing to ensure solids are diluted as much as possible in the tank(s).
@@jdgrover1 Water softener added to the tank over time would have alleviated this conductivity issue you were experiencing. Replacing what you call "Sensors" (they're just dome-headed bolts) was superfluous, there are many simple ways to address this tank maintenance issue.
@@Desert-edDave I don't know you seem to be kind of hung up because I called them sensors but if I just do a simple search about holding tank sensors you get all kinds of Manufacturers that sell holding tank sensors but if you want to call them little button head Dome pieces of Steel that is true of what they are. I just tried to put something out there that might actually help somebody figure out their problem.
It is insane that you and other people spend thousands of dollars and say" yeah, my RV has got problems, but thats normal" That should NEVER be normal. Consumers need to stop supporting a business like this that can get away with selling garbage like this. We need to boycott the RV industry until they financially break. This will be the ONLY way to get these criminals to realize they are done selling trash products like your RV.
Great video. Now I can check mine, they have the same problem as yours. Never read full. It’s amazing that rv’s have had sensor problems for ever and they keep using the same junk system. As many as they build you would think someone would come up with a better more reliable system. Thanks for showing us how to check and replace these little devils.
Thanks for the video! I believe that the bolts were notched so that you know the orientation of the half shield on the inside of the tank.
Agree, too bad the manufacturer didn't know that when they installed them in the tank
I will be looking at my wiring and replacing grey and black tank sensors. Thank you
This is the first video I have watched on this issue. My tanks are reading full when I know they are empty. I will be changing my sensors, your video has given me the confidence needed to approach this issue. Very nice JD. Thank you.
Great video, straight to the point clear and concise. Thank you for sharing this...😉😊
Great video man.
I learned a lot. Most these other guys want to play music and intros and spend ten minutes talking about something else. Then they go trust the repair mechanics and get screwed lol. Hey, I been eyeballing that stool, also! Is that the harbor freight one? It’s literally on my list right now. Need to remove my wooden chair in the trailer and get a lower profile chair for my desk and I think that would be perfect.
Cudos to you, though for this video.
I actually felt compelled to sign in and comment for several reasons!
My Travel trailer grey tank shows 1/3rd full after I emptied it, for the first time today. I’ve probably dumped it 30 times by now and this is the first time anything weird ever happened like that.
Maybe a food particle stuck on the sensors or something. Need to investigate. My tank it not exposed however. It’s under the trailer above the chloroplast liner. I’ll have to get dirty and go under there and unscrew and pull the liner back a ways to investigate.
Which leads me to say..
Yes this is a brand new 2020 trailer and yes I’ve had tons of problems with it since day once. The first thing wrong is the ac never worked at all from the get go and I’m in Florida! They didn’t listen to me on the walkthrough and sent me home bad. My fault I didn’t speak up louder about why the ac doesn’t cool down. Lesson learned.
Replaced the ac unit myself. Super not easy when it weighs 85lbs and has to be lifted 13’ in the air.
I broke a rib while removing the replacement.
I’ve found pieces of the ceiling stuck in the plumbing pipes and keeping my grey valve from fully closing as well as many many other issues.
These things are built by completely incompetent people and obviously QC is out the window.
People like you and me are what makes this possible. Guys who eff off the mechanics and learn how to take care of business and share it with the rest of the world.
Great video. Very helpful. I like that you didn't leave out any surprises to your project allowing the veiwer to see what you did to get through those. Great job
Maybe I missed something, but I didn't see any part of replacement. I saw how he pried out the old one but didn't show how it was actually held in or how to put the new ones in.
@@mr7badass sorry if I missed that part but when you remove the old one there is a hole left that the new ones slides into and when you tighten the nut it pulls and expands the rubber to seal the hole.
The body tool was a genius ideal.
Thank you for the video., I have the same problem with my black always reading 2/3 full. I have also found out that those sensors can be installed upside down. That plastic hood should be a "roof" for the sensor and not a floor. (if that makes sense) I noticed that yours were installed upside down (from the factory)
Debby, good catch. It's also notable to mention that the notch in the end of the threaded shaft is used to determine the position of the hood/tent. i.e. not only used for grabbing with pliers as the host mentioned.
Great video! The original sensors looked like the Horst Miracle Probes. Maybe they are junk.
Very helpful, thank you!
My RV sensors are literally changing levels within minutes/seconds and nothing has changed. I really wish I could change these myself. I don't trust the dealers either besides the $100+/hr price tag. I really think they made these rigs so you have to come back frequently for repairs. I've never heard anyone say "I've never had one problem with my rig".
Which is the reason I dont beat myself up for not buying a new one. I've always purchased fairly old models knowing im going to need to fix probably near everything imaginable anyway. Here this poor guy buys a brand new RV and is having the same issues im having with my 2006 model Jayco. no leaks in mine yet, but I keep it in a machine shop.
So it’s been abit since you posted this tech tip and it’s excellent! But let me ask you this. My coach is two years old and the fresh water tank is under the bed. So I had it out to dewinterize it and sanitize the fresh water tank. My panel said it was empty. Would it be the same scenario as your waste tanks? It seemed in your video you only replaced the white wire sensor unless i missed something. Is it just as easy to pull out a faulty sensor rather than drill next to the original and install a new one. I thought you’d crack the tank but didn’t. Any advice would help. I’ve seen nothing on the fresh water tanks but only black and grey. Thanks.
First of all I have never had any issues with my freshwater tank sensors and I haven't heard of anybody having any problems, but I guess it's entirely possible, as far as replacing the sensors, I'm sure they are the same as the ones in the other tanks and they're not that hard to remove. I would try to replace them in the same holes rather than drill new holes. I would also check the wires.
The relief on the end of the stud is to tell you if it is upside down or not.
I wouldn't of known that until I went into replace them because they had failed and if they're upside down that's the way they came from the manufacturer of the motorhome so obviously they have employees that don't know how to install them and should be trained
I have the opposite problem where my grey tank always shows 1/3 full when empty. I've tried the dish washing detergent, various chemicals, etc. with no luck so until I get my butt under my trailer, I'm assuming the tank is gunked up on the inside because it only does this after we start a new trip.
The black tank never has this issue. Must be the fiber!
BTW, I have a Forest River trailer that is 6 years old and yes, I did have many nit picking problems since the very first day I bought it brand new. If you RV, you'd better be handy with tools.
Good luck! And yes you're right if you can fix it yourself you sure can save yourself a lot of money
I got lines to the kitchen sink busted and the lines by the water heater broke out too, the parts are expensive and the crimping tool alost 70 dollars, after repairs and tools n parts about 150. Better then technician coming to fix same would of been over 500 bucks, plus i have the tool for my own repairs , hey. Saved alot doing it myself, sure its frustrating, but what the heck, look at it broke down and pay a bundo at around 100$ an hour plus a 100 just to come and look at it, no way jose, next fix is the sensors and thank you for an eye opener .miguel from lorain ohio with a jayco 2005 nice condition got for 4500. New it cost 15k or so
I am interested in the pliers you had and used. They appear to be thinner than average. What are they called and how can I find a set?
Edwin,
Klein Tools VDV026-049 Crimping Long Nose Pliers With Curved Handles, Grooved Jaws and Induction Hardened Steel
About $22 on Amazon
@@jdgrover1 Perfect. Thank you !!
Hey jdgrover1 how are your new tank level sensors doing? I see its been over a year since you posted your video showing how to replace them. My tanks never show empty when I know for a fact that they are. I'm little surprised at the fancy original equipment sensors corroded that much. Not so fancy after all eh.
Bill,
I have to say so far so good. You know I do have to say I guess I'm lucky that the sensors on my motorhome are pretty easy to get to.
jdgrover1 I just pulled the underbelly off my fifth wheel to fix a leak on the gray tank. It turns out that the sensors are easy to get to and replace.
The ones with the plastic hood are for black water
Both tanks had that type of sensor and I know some people said they were upside down but that's the way it came from the manufacturer of the motorhome, so I would have to say the manufacturer doesn't have employees that are taught how to install them. Either way they failed and the video was not so much about the type of sensor as it was how to test them and replace them.
The new sensors most definitely look different. Did you just install the new ones without the corroded plastic pieces?
I just installed the regular button ones and haven't had any problems since.
thanks for the great vid
OK let me see if I can explain your old switch the reason that it is modified is because it matches the opening of the sensor housing it would appear that when you install that sensor if you do not wanna have any waste products collecting on top of the sensor ….that you would turn it in the down direction.
Thank you sir, good video
Hi, Do you have a link or reference concerning these sensors I didn't find on Amazon? Thank you for your help
Check this out at Amazon
KIB MP5 8-Pack
These are not "sensors" they are literally conductive pieces of metal that allows for a change in reported voltage (and in turn resistance which is a set value for the monitoring panel). They are literally nothing more than screws with round heads. It would pay to read the documentation on the KIB tank monitoring systems (and similar). They are literally nothing more than threaded studs with rounded heads who allow for a measurable conductivity. The issue is them getting dirty, not needing replacement, they're just metal pieces, not "sensors" but are just conductors. Clean your tanks, don't go through this mess. These types of systems are notorious for providing unreliable / inaccurate readings because they get dirty from insufficient tank maintenance, and even then, from the factory can produce inconsistent readings. Always use septic-safe paper and use ample amounts of water when flushing to ensure solids are diluted as much as possible in the tank(s).
I wish you had shown what you did to install them since it’s easy to do it wrong!
Sorry, I guess I was just thinking they go in the same way they come out. What happened?
BTW name is “ miracle probe”
Wipe them off and put them back in…
I don't know what you may have had on yours that you could wipe off but the ones that I removed was more like a mineral buildup or corrosion?
@@jdgrover1 Water softener added to the tank over time would have alleviated this conductivity issue you were experiencing. Replacing what you call "Sensors" (they're just dome-headed bolts) was superfluous, there are many simple ways to address this tank maintenance issue.
@@Desert-edDave I don't know you seem to be kind of hung up because I called them sensors but if I just do a simple search about holding tank sensors you get all kinds of Manufacturers that sell holding tank sensors but if you want to call them little button head Dome pieces of Steel that is true of what they are. I just tried to put something out there that might actually help somebody figure out their problem.
It is insane that you and other people spend thousands of dollars and say" yeah, my RV has got problems, but thats normal" That should NEVER be normal. Consumers need to stop supporting a business like this that can get away with selling garbage like this. We need to boycott the RV industry until they financially break. This will be the ONLY way to get these criminals to realize they are done selling trash products like your RV.