Vertical adjustment is called "plumb.". The reason why your code wants you to place concrete at the bottom of your hole is so that you'll have stability below or at least close to your frost line. The depth in the ground above the fridge line can freeze and thaw, which causes expansion and contraction. This leads to heaving of the structural element. If you see a lot of freeze/thaw in your area you really want that movement to not affect your post. Your bridge is load bearing, it is bearing the load of the bridge itself (dead load) and the people walking on it (live load).
plus snow load lol his bridge should sink over time. Wouldn't really recommend for load bearing applications especially with no conc. pad. If he did conc. pad and then this i dont see why it wouldn't work. Plus if you just set your conc. above soil line you wont get any rot or anything as water cant pool up against the post so dont really understand him saying that.
One bag will do 2 posts. Says so on the bag. Keeps you from having to trim it. I just get two posts ready, pour half in each. Plenty of time to set them. It’s helpful if you get the posts level and held with wood stabilizers first so you’re not scrambling.
As a carpenter I would never of done what you just did there, I would secure all posts with braces first to keep plumb and then fill the holes all in one go. As a side note I’m a big fan of expanding foam so using this is interesting
I just fixed a brand fence it was shaking really bad when you wiggled on it. Not a fan of foam on fences in northern climates. Or putting that stuff in ground
I used Secure Set on my 20 post fence install. Did it in cooler early April weather. THAT was a mistake. I called Secure Set. They gave me more foam to complete my job for FREE. All they asked was how much foam did I need. GREAT customer support. Do a foam post install on a 75F or higher temp day. Foam needs heat and creates heat in the chemical reaction of curing. Cooler air temps retard expansion. 5 years later, my fence is as solid as day 1.
@@KC08RAS Think we did our fence back in 2017. No foam issues to report and still standing proud as day 1. Actually I was trimming the back fence the other day. I stepping on some foam and was still rock hard.
@@KC08RAS So many positives about foam. It glues the post to the dirt. Seals the post from water damage. Concrete only absorbs water and damages/destroys the wood. Foam is waaaay lighter to get to the hole. Concrete, you have to load it in a truck/car. Lug it through the store. To the car or truck. Now you must move it to the hole at 80lbs per bag. That is THREE moves to get the concrete to the hole. I did 20 posts which would of been 4800lbs total with 3 moves. Foam was about 20lbs?? LOL. No water mixing and all that dust in your lungs. Price was a wash compared to concrete for my job. It's also 6lb foam. Not like the stuff you buy in the spray cans. It's waay harder and stronger by a long shot. They had some cured foam when I got mine. He told me to PUNCH the foam hard as I wanted to . Honestly, it hurt my hand. Didn't phase the foam at all. His hammer didn't nothing to it either.
Yup, I plumb all of them with wood kickstands I make, screw em to the post and brace it with homemade spike that are pounded into ground. Then you can poor all the post at once. Prep time is longer but call backs are nill
@@kenrodbender9603 is a baby boomer to you any man that doesn't work in an office, has more life experience, wear tight pants, and is part of the "they" generation
That does seem pretty cool! Beats having to lug dozens of heavy bags around. Like you said, kinda pricey by comparison, though. But for someone who might need a quick fix or only a post or 2 without water, this stuff seems perfect! Thanks for the heads up, TRZ, and God bless!😁👍
Time is money. In the time it takes to mix a bag of concrete, you could have 2-3 posts set. 2-3 posts set before you ever get concrete in the hole is worth every penny.
@@speedjunky1321 Yes, but with Quick-Crete and others like it, there's no mixing involved. After placing the post in the hole, it's simply a matter of adding water, the bag of Crete, then more water. Throw some dirt back in (on top of the "mix") and done. Still, a bunch of weight to lug around.
Concrete is far superior if you want the job to last. These foam products expand great but also contract within a day or 2 leaving a gap around the post and the perimeter of the hole. Once the fence3 is erected you will not notice that the posts are loose of course. Check a post 2 days after install without a fence erected and you will have a loose wobbly post. Honestly most fences will be fine using this product however concrete is far superior for longevity! PRO-TIP--Coat the bottom 2-3 feet of your PRESSURE TREATED 4X4'S to prevent rot where the post meets the concrete ( or foam) and coat the top of the post also or put a cap on each post. The top is open grain and melting snow, rain etc will soak in weakening the post over time. Maximize your results by taking a few minutes to do the little extras that ensure a great fence.
Concrete is superior??? I used Secure Set foam on 20 posts. Price was nearly the SAME as Secure Set foam. Now you have how many TONS of concrete to load on a trolley? AND lug it through the store. Then load it into a truck YOURSELF. Then lug many TONS of concrete to each hole. Needing water and all that crete dust in your lungs later.... Here's another one. Concrete absorbs water like a sponge. Wood does the same. See where this is going? Foam doesn't absorb water people. Foam is waaaaaay lighter to finally get to each hole LOL LOL.
@@rickjames6948 @@rickjames6948 boy people like you make me look better when I have to come behind and fix their mistakes while explaining to my customer that you were too lazy to do it the right way, customer satisfaction doesn't come before self satisfaction, and that's why he seemed like a nice guy but really screwed you on materials when you weren't looking. People like you put THOUSANDS in my pocket. You do it your way, we will do it our way, next year when they want more work done they will be assessing that fence leaning over pass over you like the scam you are. P.s. if you ran business right you would be making enough money to be paying someone to move those "heavy" bags of concrete around. Or better yet, the first invention with a wheel, a wheel barrow. It's not about if it works, it wouldn't be on the shelf. It's about if it LAST you goofy. Your customer comes FIRST. if you do it yourself, who cares, you pay for any fixes or mess ups. Paint it rainbows if you want.
@@rickjames6948 what does that have to do with the longevity of the post? Sounds to me like you are just saying it's easy to use but missed the entire point of his comment.
Bro looking good dude! About a year ago I saw this here in RUclips there is a channel called “Chop Busters” it shows you innovative tools in the construction/DIY field and this one of them. The bags weigh a lot less than concrete and you don’t have to worry about breathing in the dust from the concrete or the concrete getting on your skin and burning you. Really cool and looks like it’s worth the extra money. Down here in South Florida it’s all sugar sand and coral rock so this stuff would work great with all the humidity and rain we get. Your deck came out great I’m sure the family will enjoy it thanks bro!
Thanks brother. Yeah, the bag literally weighs 2 lbs lol. I think this would work great in wet areas, and I truly think that it would work with some heavier applications like deck posts
As fun is this is…. Where I live this is 20 bucks a bag, quickcrete is 6 bucks . I work with Sika products daily and they make excellent stuff. Im just not willing to waste money and foam with an experiment trying to establish what half a pouch will fill😂 great video
I agree with you, or even better, just buy a bag of portland cement for 6 bucks and mix your concrete on site. Work harder, but have 5x the amount of made concrete for the same price. Everyone has their level of effort vs price that they are comfortable with. I could absolutely see this as worthwhile for someone doing limited posts that are non structural such as a mailbox.
This demonstration was a good, practical one. It is commonly referred to as structural expanding foam. But I caution people that it does not replace concrete because it simply does not have the compressive strength. It would have been helpful and more informative had the novice simply told us the performance test figures shown on the bag in terms of ultimate compressive and tensile strength. Another important factor is that the foam does not plastically yield, but rather fails immediately with no premature warning. Whereas concrete, engineers and scientists know a great deal about Its Behavior under load as well as what conditions cause it to break down. Structural expanding foam has not been used nearly as long and so we know much less about it. I think it would be very dangerous to use this type of foam as indicated in this demonstration because tgere is no apparent use or installation of any fixed lateral or cross bracing between his posts and so the application is Reliant solely upon the structural foam for these directional loads. It's very dangerous and borders on foolishness and dangerous. Using this material for a fence post is one matter. Using it to support a load that will carry people is quite another. It's the problem with RUclips, anything goes and so the buyer must beware. When it comes to using materials of construction for their intended purpose, it would be very wise to seek the advice of a degreed engineer or a construction worker with Decades of experience who has seen and used the material in both methods of success as well as failure. I caution any viewer of this RUclips video not to use the fiam without relying on proven structural Materials and bracing. Another source of useful information is to contact the manufacturer of the structural expanding foam for technical guidance. It's simply not worth risking life and limb using a product that is beyond its intended purpose and use.
@@AkSonya1010 it's hard to replace concrete because it has been proven over the Millennia to work and to last. I've seen structural foam work properly, but most of the times I have seen it used the results are the same as yours. I think the reason is that the foam manufacturers reduce the amount of quality ingredients / additives which improves the structural Integrity of the foam material. Effectively they cut it and weaken it. Why take chances when concrete is so cheap and easy to use? But, you are in good company because most people learn the hard way through experience. Good luck with your repair, Sonya!
@@frankie7508 I completely agree. The only reason I choose this was I had a metal post and it would have been a pain to cut up the wood and make it level. Like normal, when I take short cuts, it rarely works. Do it right the first time
I used it on a single post for a sun shade, wasn't real happy, it moved. So singular pull action prob not the best, in line with a fence where you're sharing the load, maybe.
Replacing a mailbox post destroyed by a hit & run driver and this or similar product was used to secure the former post. The hit & run vehicle had shattered both the 4x4" vertical AND the horizonal posts at the top, but the base of the post where secured inside the foam had never budged and was not loose at ground level. I had assumed it was installed in concrete. Pretty impressive. The foam base may have absorbed enough of the impact to prevent the vertical post snapping off at the base, but just a guess. I wasn't familiar with the product until removing the damaged post and doing a web search. The foam was very dense, but could still run my shovel through to remove. I plan to use this to install my new post.
Post hole levels are good only if you are ok with each post being close to plumb. It only covers about 6" of the board. What about the rest? If the board has a crown, which most do, it's good to know that where ever the 6" is that you put your mini level is plumb. The rest is going wherever.
@@marine9583 Yeah I have one of those and I still use the 4ft level with wood stakes and braces so I only have to plum once. I prefer to build the frame before the posts set aswell so they can all be cut in 3s exactly the same which forces them parallel
Anyone with motion sickness will tell you what that liquid and a bag reminds them of. Other than that, it seems like a neat idea. We will see how it hold up with time. Specially, that you got a pool next to it.
Be for you put the dirt back against the pool what you should do is take basically spray paint bed liner because it's like a rubber paint and it will save the base of your pool from rotting because you remember when it rains it's good to stay wet so that will protect it I have a 18 foot round pool I put it two feet into the ground and I did it too my pool that's what the pool guy said to do I also used the pink foam roll it out on the ground under the liner so you wouldn't step on any rocks but the painting is the best idea
Have you ever mixed concrete in a wheelbarrow? Sure you have. Remember how you have to mix & mix & mix & mix & mix & it seems like the powder is NEVER going to mix in with the wet? Its a hassle to be sure. SO, what makes you think if you pour the powder into a post hole & add a little water that the powder is going MAGICALLY mix with little effort? Its not. The top is mixed but not below. Not all the way to the bottom of the hole as it needs to be. Mixing concrete in the hole is the lazymans way & it is a halfass technique. To do it right, the concrete needs to be mixed OUTSIDE the hole. You do want to do a good job, right? I HATE mixing concrete thats why I used this foam for my mailbox post. A guy hit it with his truck, sheared off the post, but what was in the ground stayed in the ground straight & true. So, this foam is strong as hell. If more people would start using it the price will come down. Its about 6X what a bag of concrete costs BUT no water is needed and you can do a post much much much faster. If I was a fence or deck company this is all I would use. !
No problems here, but we have some really hard clay soil, so I'm sure that plays a role. Not sure how this would would with a metal post as I haven't tried it, but for the treated lumber, it works great
@@ToolReviewZone I just did (3) 4" X 4" fence posts. All (3) shrunk in from the perimeter of the hole. As well as away from the post. The foam shrunk just enough that the post wiggled a little. It took me all of 3 minutes to loosen up the post from the foam. I ended up tearing out the foam and replacing with gravel because of the high clay content.
The company that makes this showed a demonstration and they say it expands and to all the crevices Underground better than concrete does and the demonstration after it hardened it makes it nearly impossible to pull the post out of the ground but that's also the company doing a demonstration so they could do anything to make it look good but all the reviews show that is stuff works
This will be perfect for me. I'm replacing a shot run of fence, where the original installer poured a curb with 4" sockets to drop posts in, but they for reasons inexplicable didn't alow for the final post - I think they just wired the end of the fence to the fence it tees into or something. Can't tell because it rotted to nothing. Except the remnants of the 4x4 posts I had to drill and burn out of the sockets. But I screwed my back up a while back and digging the hole is going to be bad enough - I don't want to haul a couple of bags of concrete around and the cost for one bag is nothing. If I needed to set like 50 posts, I'd pass.
Going to use this sometime soon, but I’ll probably backfill with gravel and level it using another piece of wood to hold it prior to dropping in the foam. See how that works out
Exactly-doing your prep work saves time and nerves.This guy doesn’t do this for a living,where as I did and we set up the posts to plumb before dropping the cement/foam into the hole.
For a fence I can see yes for a deck No! A fence moves lateral while a deck has weight going down. So you need a pad in the bottom to support the weight and your deck shouldn't have any side to side or lateral movement. So your porch will still settle. Essentially your post is sitting on that three and a half inches versus where if you had 12 inches of concrete pad on the bottom it would be sitting on that 12-in pad. That's most of my 2cent
Too many folks go cheap. I switched to galvanized steel post set in concrete. 1/3 below ground to 2/3 above for post length. Over dig holes and put rock in bottom. Mix concrete with minimal moisture to reduce shrinkage. Water soak dirt in top half of hole. Fill posts with concrete after height has been set. Never had any call backs. Was in business 31 years.
And I bet you used front end loaders for all that crete and rock. It's a fence people...... You don't need 50 foot deep post anchors or some Hoover Dam concrete job to anchor a 4x4. You can tamp simple yard dirt and do the same as concrete for FREE.
Or the probably didn't note manufacturer suggestions to bell your hole..... we just use auger or tamper to make channels at base. If hole is deep, (frost depth) we also flare top of hole so excess material can be left intact and buried, to increase stability.
Which does what class? Weakens the post. Nowhere does to state you must drill any holes with the post. Stop trying to re-engineer something that doesn't require it.
Looking forward to this. Also, your pool has inspired me to think about getting a similar one myself next year - partially underground the rest above (with some kind of decorative wall to cover the sides).
No way you dug those 4ft deep with clam shells. Diameter is way too small for them to open up plus way to much foam came out if they're saying that's two 50 pounds bags of concrete and that's 4ft deep
Fortunately, there will only be vertical forces so no need to go that deep - still it would make it more stable and less mess if done according to instructions. I would also clean all up before going ahead with building any structure.
@@dkat1108 at the bottom of the post where it will be below surface. Drill a couple of holes through the post with a paddle bit. This will allow the foam to pass into the holes and pull the post down. Don’t drill up into the bottom of the post, that could cause it to split.
@@thomaspayne6866 the foam going through the holes will pull it down into the foam creating a more secure bond. Think of tying a rope through the eye of a cleat vs wrapping around it.
Let's find out how last during the winter I would still put cross supports underneath just for overtime but you need to do reviews every year on this so how it's holding up and stuff but do it in an experiment where you just have one pole in the ground like 2 years digging up see what it actually looks like see if there's any corrosion on the four by four only suggestion you take care of your wife and family and cheers with a beer
What region are you in? I have an upcoming fence project where the frost line goes down around 4 feet in the winter. I’m putting together my material list and was planning on using 2 foot deep holes filled with Quick-Crete until I saw this foam product. Now I need to look more into using foam in my climate zone and check with the building inspector. Thanks for the content! I just subscribed
You really only need about half a bag per post. Given that the foam is roughly $10.50 a bag, concrete is still less expensive at $3.15 a bag. Foam per post $5.25 Concrete per post $1.57
Cool video and thank you. Do you think it's necessary to use a full bag on one post with it being = two bags of concrete. Im using for a mailbox post im thinking a 1/4 bag should be sufficient
Tack baton props on 2 sides of the post spiked into the ground to hold your post level then you will have bang on level posts, I always make the holes to suit half a block to put at the bottom of the hole so that there is a solid base for the post to sit on the compressive strength of the deck won’t push the post into the ground then
2 questions. Hows it do with weather like rain or snow getting down along the post and heaving it when it freezes? When the post is setting up, does it try to lift the post out of the ground?
It does fine in rain, we have had 3x the amount of rain this summer and it's doing fine. it does not raise the post up. It just expands not compress. I am not happy with it. The foan is not hard, my post is wobbly, I wouldn't us it again.
Update the post spike worked better, but I did use this with it along with cardboard cylinder. I just used it and it didn't work. I'm going try again and use with a post spike.
Need to READ the foam directions. Hole needs to be exactly X inches wide and deep for said amount of foam. Who said to use a cardboard cylinder? Your issue sound like operator error.
I have so been wanting to try this stuff, I cannot beleive that it is strong enough to hold any type of load. I bet this stuff is light, will not load my truck down like concrete. Just have to wonder if it can be used on decks, or any place where you are going to have people traffic. I sure wouldnt want som,ething to fail.
A trick before starting, you know how expanding foam sticks to everything, put something around the bottom of the 4x4 before you pour. LIke hard plastic cut out of something, one post uses a two liter bottle...Smart..if your messy like me, I always seem to get foam on everything...then slide the sleeve off ASAP!!!.......Just my opinion!!...
@@ToolReviewZone Thanks for the followup - I was wondering how it held up over time. I live in a fairly windy area along the coast, so I'm a bit skeptical, but might give it a try.
I live in Massachusetts and frost line when it’s cold I’ve never seen frost 3’ down or more. Side not he didn’t dig 4’ down he’d not be able to open the digger up at all. Plus the diameter of that hole is way to small Should be twice the size of the post
Joe Everest on his fencing channel had very different result (not good). Hmmm...wonder what the difference was. If you used a concrete pad at the bottom and he didn't, that might explain it. I don't know. Ineresting.
I just watched it. I'm wondering if there is a difference between using a metal post or 4x4 lumber? I haven't noticed any of those issues, but maybe I'll try with some metal posts to see if I get the same results
Yo TRZ!! You should strap on your scuba gear and test out some "Nemo" power tools!! I've always wanted to know what your voice sounds like underwater! Lol!
Well, to be fair, he wasn’t using it as a footer. The post is resting against the ground, just like the myriads of decks built with the posts directly buried. The foam is just basically acting as a lateral stabilizer. Granted, do you want wood posts that are structural just buried in the ground? Maybe not, and certain areas don’t allow it, but other than arguing about long term buried wood durability, there isn’t anything unsafe about how he did it. Now, if he poured in the foam and then put the wood on top of that…..
For one post $15 a bag might be OK but if I were actually setting a fence line there's no way in the world I would spend that much on a bag of this when I can spend four bucks on a bag of quick Crete
Why bother with foam, concrete etc. Do it like it has been done for years; put the dirt back in the hole and pack it down with a spud. No extra cost or a trip to get foam or concrete.
??? been using concrete for over 25 years, and my grandpa has been using it for 20 before that. What are you talking about? People who use dirt don't have a clue how to make a post not lift. In fact, the codes where I live say you have to use concrete in the bottom of the hole.
@@Valkaneer And I'm sure all yours and grandpa's fence jobs were ALL inspected by the city right? Donald is correct. Try to pull a post that was soil tamped all the way to the soil level. Just as strong as any concrete, rock, foam, holes drilled into he post or any other method. If your statement had any validity, there would be a million videos out there with peoples fences popped up laying on their yard. LOL LOL
I tried this - Was not impressed. Not because it can't work, but because they are asking WAY too much money for 1 bag.($14.99) I tried it with about 2" of concrete in the bottom and the rest foam. Wasn't near as strong though. I did use 1 bag per 2 posts, but I think to be anywhere near effective you would have to use 1 bag. Great idea, but either greedy price, or it cost to much too make. Either way. In my area at Lowes, a bag is 14.99. How in the world would I justify laying 35 posts x 14.99. No Way. Out of your minds. If you want me personally to buy this, the manufacture better find a way to make the price under 5.00 a bag.
Follow up: To the guy below who suggested Secure-Set Foam, this looks better. I found it for $43.00 a gallon. This might make more sense in cost to mix it yourself per 128oz each gal. Thank you for posting that, it might be better on the wallet in that form. This Sika Bag stuff though... must be putting gold inside it or something :\
Vertical adjustment is called "plumb.". The reason why your code wants you to place concrete at the bottom of your hole is so that you'll have stability below or at least close to your frost line. The depth in the ground above the fridge line can freeze and thaw, which causes expansion and contraction. This leads to heaving of the structural element. If you see a lot of freeze/thaw in your area you really want that movement to not affect your post. Your bridge is load bearing, it is bearing the load of the bridge itself (dead load) and the people walking on it (live load).
plus snow load lol his bridge should sink over time. Wouldn't really recommend for load bearing applications especially with no conc. pad. If he did conc. pad and then this i dont see why it wouldn't work. Plus if you just set your conc. above soil line you wont get any rot or anything as water cant pool up against the post so dont really understand him saying that.
One bag will do 2 posts. Says so on the bag. Keeps you from having to trim it. I just get two posts ready, pour half in each. Plenty of time to set them. It’s helpful if you get the posts level and held with wood stabilizers first so you’re not scrambling.
Good info. Might be smart to plumb the posts first with some braces before pouring in the mixture. Won't have to stand there and wait either.
I used this yesterday for my mailbox post and it worked wonderfully. I’m a woman and no trouble at all.
Thank you for being a woman. Lol
A woman named James? 😂 ah, 2024 is weird times.
As a carpenter I would never of done what you just did there, I would secure all posts with braces first to keep plumb and then fill the holes all in one go. As a side note I’m a big fan of expanding foam so using this is interesting
So this thing can withstand water and snow?
I just fixed a brand fence it was shaking really bad when you wiggled on it. Not a fan of foam on fences in northern climates. Or putting that stuff in ground
i just used this stuff a few days ago ... 20 wood post for a privacy fence around my unground pool this stuff is awesome
Heck yeah. Way better that 30 bags of concrete
Still holding?
@@JoshR512 holding strong.. very pleased
Are you still happy with the results of the foam? I’m pricing out materials for my fence project and just found out about the foam. Thanks
@@B.E.C.K. yes my fence is still up nice and strong 💪🏽
I used Secure Set on my 20 post fence install. Did it in cooler early April weather. THAT was a mistake. I called Secure Set. They gave me more foam to complete my job for FREE. All they asked was how much foam did I need. GREAT customer support. Do a foam post install on a 75F or higher temp day. Foam needs heat and creates heat in the chemical reaction of curing. Cooler air temps retard expansion. 5 years later, my fence is as solid as day 1.
This comment has swayed me to use foam, 6 feet high fence
@@KC08RAS Think we did our fence back in 2017. No foam issues to report and still standing proud as day 1. Actually I was trimming the back fence the other day. I stepping on some foam and was still rock hard.
@@KC08RAS So many positives about foam. It glues the post to the dirt. Seals the post from water damage. Concrete only absorbs water and damages/destroys the wood. Foam is waaaay lighter to get to the hole. Concrete, you have to load it in a truck/car. Lug it through the store. To the car or truck. Now you must move it to the hole at 80lbs per bag. That is THREE moves to get the concrete to the hole. I did 20 posts which would of been 4800lbs total with 3 moves. Foam was about 20lbs?? LOL. No water mixing and all that dust in your lungs. Price was a wash compared to concrete for my job. It's also 6lb foam. Not like the stuff you buy in the spray cans. It's waay harder and stronger by a long shot. They had some cured foam when I got mine. He told me to PUNCH the foam hard as I wanted to . Honestly, it hurt my hand. Didn't phase the foam at all. His hammer didn't nothing to it either.
Power service companies have been using this stuff for many years here in Texas.
Awesome 👊
Yes on HUGE tower posts.
Who else couldn't watch this without mumbling "plumb the damned post and leave it alone!"
Try not to be so shortsighted. Some people can’t lift heavy bags of concrete. Other reasons as well
Yup, I plumb all of them with wood kickstands I make, screw em to the post and brace it with homemade spike that are pounded into ground. Then you can poor all the post at once. Prep time is longer but call backs are nill
Mad boomer vibe from this comment 💩
@@kenrodbender9603 is a baby boomer to you any man that doesn't work in an office, has more life experience, wear tight pants, and is part of the "they" generation
Too easy
That does seem pretty cool! Beats having to lug dozens of heavy bags around. Like you said, kinda pricey by comparison, though. But for someone who might need a quick fix or only a post or 2 without water, this stuff seems perfect! Thanks for the heads up, TRZ, and God bless!😁👍
Thanks brother Dave👊👊👊
Time is money. In the time it takes to mix a bag of concrete, you could have 2-3 posts set. 2-3 posts set before you ever get concrete in the hole is worth every penny.
@@speedjunky1321 Yes, but with Quick-Crete and others like it, there's no mixing involved. After placing the post in the hole, it's simply a matter of adding water, the bag of Crete, then more water. Throw some dirt back in (on top of the "mix") and done. Still, a bunch of weight to lug around.
Concrete is far superior if you want the job to last. These foam products expand great but also contract within a day or 2 leaving a gap around the post and the perimeter of the hole. Once the fence3 is erected you will not notice that the posts are loose of course. Check a post 2 days after install without a fence erected and you will have a loose wobbly post. Honestly most fences will be fine using this product however concrete is far superior for longevity! PRO-TIP--Coat the bottom 2-3 feet of your PRESSURE TREATED 4X4'S to prevent rot where the post meets the concrete ( or foam) and coat the top of the post also or put a cap on each post. The top is open grain and melting snow, rain etc will soak in weakening the post over time. Maximize your results by taking a few minutes to do the little extras that ensure a great fence.
Concrete is superior??? I used Secure Set foam on 20 posts. Price was nearly the SAME as Secure Set foam. Now you have how many TONS of concrete to load on a trolley? AND lug it through the store. Then load it into a truck YOURSELF. Then lug many TONS of concrete to each hole. Needing water and all that crete dust in your lungs later.... Here's another one. Concrete absorbs water like a sponge. Wood does the same. See where this is going? Foam doesn't absorb water people. Foam is waaaaaay lighter to finally get to each hole LOL LOL.
@@rickjames6948 @@rickjames6948 boy people like you make me look better when I have to come behind and fix their mistakes while explaining to my customer that you were too lazy to do it the right way, customer satisfaction doesn't come before self satisfaction, and that's why he seemed like a nice guy but really screwed you on materials when you weren't looking. People like you put THOUSANDS in my pocket. You do it your way, we will do it our way, next year when they want more work done they will be assessing that fence leaning over pass over you like the scam you are.
P.s. if you ran business right you would be making enough money to be paying someone to move those "heavy" bags of concrete around. Or better yet, the first invention with a wheel, a wheel barrow. It's not about if it works, it wouldn't be on the shelf. It's about if it LAST you goofy. Your customer comes FIRST. if you do it yourself, who cares, you pay for any fixes or mess ups. Paint it rainbows if you want.
@@rickjames6948 what does that have to do with the longevity of the post? Sounds to me like you are just saying it's easy to use but missed the entire point of his comment.
Bro looking good dude! About a year ago I saw this here in RUclips there is a channel called “Chop Busters” it shows you innovative tools in the construction/DIY field and this one of them. The bags weigh a lot less than concrete and you don’t have to worry about breathing in the dust from the concrete or the concrete getting on your skin and burning you. Really cool and looks like it’s worth the extra money. Down here in South Florida it’s all sugar sand and coral rock so this stuff would work great with all the humidity and rain we get. Your deck came out great I’m sure the family will enjoy it thanks bro!
Thanks brother. Yeah, the bag literally weighs 2 lbs lol. I think this would work great in wet areas, and I truly think that it would work with some heavier applications like deck posts
As fun is this is…. Where I live this is 20 bucks a bag, quickcrete is 6 bucks . I work with Sika products daily and they make excellent stuff. Im just not willing to waste money and foam with an experiment trying to establish what half a pouch will fill😂 great video
I agree with you, or even better, just buy a bag of portland cement for 6 bucks and mix your concrete on site. Work harder, but have 5x the amount of made concrete for the same price. Everyone has their level of effort vs price that they are comfortable with. I could absolutely see this as worthwhile for someone doing limited posts that are non structural such as a mailbox.
Cut a dome or pyramid into the top of the foam to keep water away from the post just like you should with concrete.
I actually let the foam dome a bit like you said. Hopefully it works like it think it will
Use “Secure Set” foam instead.
It’s 3.5x more dense.
It’s more expensive than Sika individually, but their multi-post kit works out cheaper.
Is there any way to brace the post so it's level and then add the mixture so you don't have to hold it
Yes best to drive a couple of stakes and screw or clamp the leveled post. Much easier especially if installing several posts in a straight line.
Yeah bro. I agree with Tom
Yup.....screw a 2x4 to it.
I use it all the time for mailbox posts and it works great.
That would be a great use Ben!!!
I could see that for one or two posts, but I'm not spending $15/bag for my 21 poles I have to put in
This demonstration was a good, practical one. It is commonly referred to as structural expanding foam. But I caution people that it does not replace concrete because it simply does not have the compressive strength. It would have been helpful and more informative had the novice simply told us the performance test figures shown on the bag in terms of ultimate compressive and tensile strength. Another important factor is that the foam does not plastically yield, but rather fails immediately with no premature warning. Whereas concrete, engineers and scientists know a great deal about Its Behavior under load as well as what conditions cause it to break down. Structural expanding foam has not been used nearly as long and so we know much less about it. I think it would be very dangerous to use this type of foam as indicated in this demonstration because tgere is no apparent use or installation of any fixed lateral or cross bracing between his posts and so the application is Reliant solely upon the structural foam for these directional loads. It's very dangerous and borders on foolishness and dangerous. Using this material for a fence post is one matter. Using it to support a load that will carry people is quite another. It's the problem with RUclips, anything goes and so the buyer must beware. When it comes to using materials of construction for their intended purpose, it would be very wise to seek the advice of a degreed engineer or a construction worker with Decades of experience who has seen and used the material in both methods of success as well as failure. I caution any viewer of this RUclips video not to use the fiam without relying on proven structural Materials and bracing. Another source of useful information is to contact the manufacturer of the structural expanding foam for technical guidance. It's simply not worth risking life and limb using a product that is beyond its intended purpose and use.
My post is wobbly, so I wouldn't use it again.
@@AkSonya1010 it's hard to replace concrete because it has been proven over the Millennia to work and to last. I've seen structural foam work properly, but most of the times I have seen it used the results are the same as yours. I think the reason is that the foam manufacturers reduce the amount of quality ingredients / additives which improves the structural Integrity of the foam material. Effectively they cut it and weaken it. Why take chances when concrete is so cheap and easy to use? But, you are in good company because most people learn the hard way through experience. Good luck with your repair, Sonya!
@@frankie7508 I completely agree.
The only reason I choose this was I had a metal post and it would have been a pain to cut up the wood and make it level. Like normal, when I take short cuts, it rarely works.
Do it right the first time
@@AkSonya1010 that's what an engineer learns the first year in college as a freshman. And by the way, that's true for everyone
@@AkSonya1010 you go girl!
I used it on a single post for a sun shade, wasn't real happy, it moved. So singular pull action prob not the best, in line with a fence where you're sharing the load, maybe.
Replacing a mailbox post destroyed by a hit & run driver and this or similar product was used to secure the former post. The hit & run vehicle had shattered both the 4x4" vertical AND the horizonal posts at the top, but the base of the post where secured inside the foam had never budged and was not loose at ground level. I had assumed it was installed in concrete. Pretty impressive. The foam base may have absorbed enough of the impact to prevent the vertical post snapping off at the base, but just a guess. I wasn't familiar with the product until removing the damaged post and doing a web search. The foam was very dense, but could still run my shovel through to remove. I plan to use this to install my new post.
Next time try a post hole level which has to levels on to side much easier
Post hole levels are good only if you are ok with each post being close to plumb. It only covers about 6" of the board. What about the rest? If the board has a crown, which most do, it's good to know that where ever the 6" is that you put your mini level is plumb. The rest is going wherever.
@@marine9583 Yeah I have one of those and I still use the 4ft level with wood stakes and braces so I only have to plum once. I prefer to build the frame before the posts set aswell so they can all be cut in 3s exactly the same which forces them parallel
Anyone with motion sickness will tell you what that liquid and a bag reminds them of. Other than that, it seems like a neat idea. We will see how it hold up with time. Specially, that you got a pool next to it.
Lmao. I'll be the first to let you know if it has issues. So far so good though 👊👊👊
Great video, I have been wanting to test this product. Thanks for beating me to it, It will help me plan better.
Thanks for the comment Ed!!!
Be for you put the dirt back against the pool what you should do is take basically spray paint bed liner because it's like a rubber paint and it will save the base of your pool from rotting because you remember when it rains it's good to stay wet so that will protect it I have a 18 foot round pool I put it two feet into the ground and I did it too my pool that's what the pool guy said to do I also used the pink foam roll it out on the ground under the liner so you wouldn't step on any rocks but the painting is the best idea
That's an awesome idea Joseph...your the man!!!!!
Pool??
Have you ever mixed concrete in a wheelbarrow? Sure you have. Remember how you have to mix & mix & mix & mix & mix & it seems like the powder is NEVER going to mix in with the wet? Its a hassle to be sure. SO, what makes you think if you pour the powder into a post hole & add a little water that the powder is going MAGICALLY mix with little effort? Its not. The top is mixed but not below. Not all the way to the bottom of the hole as it needs to be. Mixing concrete in the hole is the lazymans way & it is a halfass technique.
To do it right, the concrete needs to be mixed OUTSIDE the hole. You do want to do a good job, right? I HATE mixing concrete thats why I used this foam for my mailbox post. A guy hit it with his truck, sheared off the post, but what was in the ground stayed in the ground straight & true. So, this foam is strong as hell. If more people would start using it the price will come down. Its about 6X what a bag of concrete costs BUT no water is needed and you can do a post much much much faster. If I was a fence or deck company this is all I would use.
!
ive seen reviews where it contracts after the full expansion making the post loose
No problems here, but we have some really hard clay soil, so I'm sure that plays a role. Not sure how this would would with a metal post as I haven't tried it, but for the treated lumber, it works great
@@ToolReviewZone I just did (3) 4" X 4" fence posts. All (3) shrunk in from the perimeter of the hole. As well as away from the post. The foam shrunk just enough that the post wiggled a little. It took me all of 3 minutes to loosen up the post from the foam. I ended up tearing out the foam and replacing with gravel because of the high clay content.
This just happened to me. It cured and I was able to pull the mailbox post right up out of the ground. Want my money back!
The company that makes this showed a demonstration and they say it expands and to all the crevices Underground better than concrete does and the demonstration after it hardened it makes it nearly impossible to pull the post out of the ground but that's also the company doing a demonstration so they could do anything to make it look good but all the reviews show that is stuff works
Its pretty impressive Joseph. I was really wondering if this would really work, but its pretty amazing
This will be perfect for me.
I'm replacing a shot run of fence, where the original installer poured a curb with 4" sockets to drop posts in, but they for reasons inexplicable didn't alow for the final post - I think they just wired the end of the fence to the fence it tees into or something.
Can't tell because it rotted to nothing.
Except the remnants of the 4x4 posts I had to drill and burn out of the sockets.
But I screwed my back up a while back and digging the hole is going to be bad enough - I don't want to haul a couple of bags of concrete around and the cost for one bag is nothing.
If I needed to set like 50 posts, I'd pass.
Going to use this sometime soon, but I’ll probably backfill with gravel and level it using another piece of wood to hold it prior to dropping in the foam. See how that works out
Exactly-doing your prep work saves time and nerves.This guy doesn’t do this for a living,where as I did and we set up the posts to plumb before dropping the cement/foam into the hole.
For a fence I can see yes for a deck No! A fence moves lateral while a deck has weight going down. So you need a pad in the bottom to support the weight and your deck shouldn't have any side to side or lateral movement. So your porch will still settle. Essentially your post is sitting on that three and a half inches versus where if you had 12 inches of concrete pad on the bottom it would be sitting on that 12-in pad. That's most of my 2cent
Thanks Clint, this video came in really handy this week💪💪💪
Well that's real nass like Ted 👊
Too many folks go cheap. I switched to galvanized steel post set in concrete. 1/3 below ground to 2/3 above for post length. Over dig holes and put rock in bottom. Mix concrete with minimal moisture to reduce shrinkage. Water soak dirt in top half of hole. Fill posts with concrete after height has been set. Never had any call backs. Was in business 31 years.
And I bet you used front end loaders for all that crete and rock. It's a fence people...... You don't need 50 foot deep post anchors or some Hoover Dam concrete job to anchor a 4x4. You can tamp simple yard dirt and do the same as concrete for FREE.
That Ohio soil really takes to the foam. Other reviews that have mixed results aren’t pouring this foam in the right state 👍
Haha
Or the probably didn't note manufacturer suggestions to bell your hole..... we just use auger or tamper to make channels at base. If hole is deep, (frost depth) we also flare top of hole so excess material can be left intact and buried, to increase stability.
THAT, is one of the moistest reviews, yet.
Hahahahaha, definitely MOIST!
I drill a few 1 inch holes thru the post base hoping that the foam goes thru it and grabs it better
Which does what class? Weakens the post. Nowhere does to state you must drill any holes with the post. Stop trying to re-engineer something that doesn't require it.
Looking forward to this. Also, your pool has inspired me to think about getting a similar one myself next year - partially underground the rest above (with some kind of decorative wall to cover the sides).
No way you dug those 4ft deep with clam shells. Diameter is way too small for them to open up plus way to much foam came out if they're saying that's two 50 pounds bags of concrete and that's 4ft deep
I was thinking the exact same thing
Fortunately, there will only be vertical forces so no need to go that deep - still it would make it more stable and less mess if done according to instructions. I would also clean all up before going ahead with building any structure.
Dug it with auger as the hole tops were clean and round. The visual misdirection with the unused tool more or less is the giveaway
If you drill a couple holes in the bottom of the post, it will pull it down better.
I am a little slow LOL drill holes in the bottom up into the post or across the post ? How is it going to pull it down?
@@dkat1108 at the bottom of the post where it will be below surface. Drill a couple of holes through the post with a paddle bit. This will allow the foam to pass into the holes and pull the post down. Don’t drill up into the bottom of the post, that could cause it to split.
@@tsnorquist Hey thanks if I ever do this I will remember that tip....
I don’t understand why it needs to be pulled down. The weight of the deck pushes it down
@@thomaspayne6866 the foam going through the holes will pull it down into the foam creating a more secure bond. Think of tying a rope through the eye of a cleat vs wrapping around it.
That is neat. Thanks for sharing. I'll be doing this in a few days.
Thanks for the video, definitely will be using this .
Set your posts plumb first with some bracing. Then just pour away.
I should have done that for the vid. Was get6a bit sketchy trying to film then all the other stuff 👊
what timing i have to replace 2 fence posts im going to try it
Let me know how it works out bro👊
If you brace it level then pour you can just pour it and forget it
Did it shrink or did it keep it solid in place?
Still doing great. Really happy with this product 👊
Let's find out how last during the winter I would still put cross supports underneath just for overtime but you need to do reviews every year on this so how it's holding up and stuff but do it in an experiment where you just have one pole in the ground like 2 years digging up see what it actually looks like see if there's any corrosion on the four by four only suggestion you take care of your wife and family and cheers with a beer
Haha, I'll definitely let you all know if it fails on me
@@ToolReviewZone so.. a year later ?
Following 🤣
still hard 😆😆😅😅
Any updates?
Still holding awesome
What region are you in? I have an upcoming fence project where the frost line goes down around 4 feet in the winter. I’m putting together my material list and was planning on using 2 foot deep holes filled with Quick-Crete until I saw this foam product. Now I need to look more into using foam in my climate zone and check with the building inspector. Thanks for the content! I just subscribed
You really only need about half a bag per post.
Given that the foam is roughly $10.50 a bag, concrete is still less expensive at $3.15 a bag.
Foam per post $5.25
Concrete per post $1.57
You have to add in delivery cost for concrete
@@Komputar YUP LOL. He just saved about 30 bucks. WOW you can buy what three number 1 meals now at McDonalds? What a savings LOL.
Cool video and thank you. Do you think it's necessary to use a full bag on one post with it being = two bags of concrete. Im using for a mailbox post im thinking a 1/4 bag should be sufficient
Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it
Problem is, you have to use 100% of it as soon as the bag is open
From my experience if it is made by Sika it is a great product! Imagine the pain if horrible renters poured this down the drains.
That is a good idea
@@MrJabez89 Your welcome!
Tack baton props on 2 sides of the post spiked into the ground to hold your post level then you will have bang on level posts, I always make the holes to suit half a block to put at the bottom of the hole so that there is a solid base for the post to sit on the compressive strength of the deck won’t push the post into the ground then
Your hole was too small! Need 12" hole 24" deep. You also should have braced your posts and then you would not have to plumb your post after the fact.
defiantly right on bracing but keep your depth at frost line, he said 4'
Very cool video Clint some neet Fence post mix
I was waiting for to swing on it bud
You posted this video says a year ago. Hows it held it up? Settling, sinking, any adjustments due to the weather and use? Just questions.
Still perfect 💪💪💪
maybe mix it just a little longer as it says on the bag and it just might work even better .
2 questions. Hows it do with weather like rain or snow getting down along the post and heaving it when it freezes? When the post is setting up, does it try to lift the post out of the ground?
It does fine in rain, we have had 3x the amount of rain this summer and it's doing fine.
it does not raise the post up. It just expands not compress. I am not happy with it. The foan is not hard, my post is wobbly, I wouldn't us it again.
Update the post spike worked better, but I did use this with it along with cardboard cylinder.
I just used it and it didn't work. I'm going try again and use with a post spike.
Need to READ the foam directions. Hole needs to be exactly X inches wide and deep for said amount of foam. Who said to use a cardboard cylinder? Your issue sound like operator error.
I have so been wanting to try this stuff, I cannot beleive that it is strong enough to hold any type of load. I bet this stuff is light, will not load my truck down like concrete. Just have to wonder if it can be used on decks, or any place where you are going to have people traffic. I sure wouldnt want som,ething to fail.
It's been holding awesome so far. Haven't had an issue
Power companies in Texas and Oklahoma use foam all the time on big stuff. Much larger than a 4x4 obviously.
Hopefully you’re still checking comments, did this stuff kill the lawn surrounding the post hole? Wondering about chemicals in the dirt
No, everything is still fine
A trick before starting, you know how expanding foam sticks to everything, put something around the bottom of the 4x4 before you pour. LIke hard plastic cut out of something, one post uses a two liter bottle...Smart..if your messy like me, I always seem to get foam on everything...then slide the sleeve off ASAP!!!.......Just my opinion!!...
can you use regular expanding foam for a 2x4 into dirt? It will be a holding up a 1lb security camera
It should be just fine.
Maybe if you set the post plumb first by using standard staking method you wouldn't need to hold on and wiggle back and forth so much.
It literally took 1 minute to hold it
Does the bag give a recommendation on when to trim the excess above the ground ?
You can just cut it flush with the ground
@@ToolReviewZone I understand that. But does it give an approximate time that it will be too hard to trim
Ahhh, got it. I think I was about to cut it around 30 or 40 minutes. Doesn't take long
@@ToolReviewZone ok. Thanks
Dig all post holes
Place post
Plumb with stakes
Then pour foam mix & not whole bag in one post hole.
Pretty neat stuff!
How long do you have to wait before you trim off the excess
Do you think it can be put inside a vinyl post to strengthen it up wo cracking the post?
Might work OK. I would only use a little bit just incase though
What do you think for fence posts
Will work fantastic
@@ToolReviewZone thanks appreciate it tons of mixed reviews
This stuff hasn't moved an inch. Held up very well for me
@@ToolReviewZone Thanks for the followup - I was wondering how it held up over time. I live in a fairly windy area along the coast, so I'm a bit skeptical, but might give it a try.
I live in Massachusetts and frost line when it’s cold I’ve never seen frost 3’ down or more. Side not he didn’t dig 4’ down he’d not be able to open the digger up at all. Plus the diameter of that hole is way to small Should be twice the size of the post
Do you have to pour the whole packet in?
1 pouch equals 2 50lb bags of concrete.
@@RegattaMediaUSA Thanks!👍
You need 2x4 and screw them to the post once it's PLUMB (it killed me hearing you say level each time 😂🤣)
How did you dig such clean 4x4 post holes?
Post hole digger 👊
Wazzup!!!!!! Bro THANKS for the info 👍🏼
Thanks JR!!!
Question, can this stuff be used to fill part of an unground pool?
Fill in the pool or around it?
Joe Everest on his fencing channel had very different result (not good). Hmmm...wonder what the difference was. If you used a concrete pad at the bottom and he didn't, that might explain it. I don't know. Ineresting.
I just watched it. I'm wondering if there is a difference between using a metal post or 4x4 lumber? I haven't noticed any of those issues, but maybe I'll try with some metal posts to see if I get the same results
Very possible brother. I really enjoyed you video 👊👊👊
After watching this, I have just one question, is it hard??
Level your posts with stakes and pour the foam. You won't have to stand there wiggling your post.
I should have paid more attention in chemistry class....fascinating.
Do you need to put gravel at the bottom?
They tell you 15 seconds to keep you on point.
That's what I was thinking. I was running around like my ass was on fire trying to get it level within 15 seconds lol
Yo TRZ!! You should strap on your scuba gear and test out some "Nemo" power tools!! I've always wanted to know what your voice sounds like underwater! Lol!
Hahaha, I'll see what I can do bro lmao
@@ToolReviewZone you have the biggest piece of the puzzle, which is the pool! You would get alot of views with that vid! Happy Memorial Day brother!!
Is this biodegradable?
That would defeat its purpose.
Concrete sure isn't you tree hugger.
You should have them posts plumb already with 2x4 kickers.
Bro how many times you gonna move the column and level it??🤦🏻♂️
Well come and help me then "bro!"
Looks like great stuff foam to me..
is it still holding up ?
On the deck as we speak. Still holding perfect 👊
You should di the hole a little bigger in diameter. Foam is getting wasted which is not good for the post sturdiness.
Foam loosens up easy, so if any gates are set, it will let go. Concrete is clearly superior
Hey brother, didn’t realize you were in Ohio. Eastern or Western Ohio?
What's up bro. I'm in the Youngstown area (eastern Ohio) where you at?
nice shorts :)
RUclips channel "Goonzsquad" built a fence using this and they loved it.
I haven't seen any other reviews for it, but I'll definitely check it out. Thanks for the heads up will
@@ToolReviewZone YW!
8:55 We have a different definition of "super solid".
Great product for fence posts, but the product is for non-structural purposes only, it won't meet IRC code, anywhere, for use as a deck post footer.
Well, to be fair, he wasn’t using it as a footer. The post is resting against the ground, just like the myriads of decks built with the posts directly buried. The foam is just basically acting as a lateral stabilizer.
Granted, do you want wood posts that are structural just buried in the ground? Maybe not, and certain areas don’t allow it, but other than arguing about long term buried wood durability, there isn’t anything unsafe about how he did it.
Now, if he poured in the foam and then put the wood on top of that…..
For one post $15 a bag might be OK but if I were actually setting a fence line there's no way in the world I would spend that much on a bag of this when I can spend four bucks on a bag of quick Crete
You need to plumb the post and put just a couple sgort boards on it to hold level, then ad the stuff
Why bother with foam, concrete etc. Do it like it has been done for years; put the dirt back in the hole and pack it down with a spud. No extra cost or a trip to get foam or concrete.
??? been using concrete for over 25 years, and my grandpa has been using it for 20 before that. What are you talking about? People who use dirt don't have a clue how to make a post not lift. In fact, the codes where I live say you have to use concrete in the bottom of the hole.
@@Valkaneer And I'm sure all yours and grandpa's fence jobs were ALL inspected by the city right? Donald is correct. Try to pull a post that was soil tamped all the way to the soil level. Just as strong as any concrete, rock, foam, holes drilled into he post or any other method. If your statement had any validity, there would be a million videos out there with peoples fences popped up laying on their yard. LOL LOL
I tried this - Was not impressed. Not because it can't work, but because they are asking WAY too much money for 1 bag.($14.99) I tried it with about 2" of concrete in the bottom and the rest foam. Wasn't near as strong though. I did use 1 bag per 2 posts, but I think to be anywhere near effective you would have to use 1 bag. Great idea, but either greedy price, or it cost to much too make. Either way. In my area at Lowes, a bag is 14.99. How in the world would I justify laying 35 posts x 14.99. No Way. Out of your minds. If you want me personally to buy this, the manufacture better find a way to make the price under 5.00 a bag.
Follow up: To the guy below who suggested Secure-Set Foam, this looks better. I found it for $43.00 a gallon. This might make more sense in cost to mix it yourself per 128oz each gal. Thank you for posting that, it might be better on the wallet in that form. This Sika Bag stuff though... must be putting gold inside it or something :\
Looks like 1 bag could do 2 posts
I used this when it was hot outside it expanded so fast in the bag it exploded in my face lol be careful.
Lol, dayuuuum 🤣 thanks for the heads up Tarric!
Nice video but next time you would level the post stake them down then pour it..
Holes not wide enough, that too is why it’s pouring out