What are the cool analog indicators on top of the camera and what picture is "analog" on it! Amazing. Now! This is my dream and I want it to my collection.
Great review from obviously someone who understands camera, lens design and photo rendering. How refreshing versus typical "hobby enthusiast" turn reviewer which usually focuses only on what their preference is with little depth. Many thanks!!
I like this lens for couple of reasons, first its small and light compared to other ultra fast lenses, it is cheap, it has a proper aperture mechanism ( 12 or 13 petals, which gives rounded bokeh even stopped down), the lens character between 1,1f and 1,4f differ quite a lot, at 1,1f it has very harsh bokeh rendering, while at 1,4f background becomes creamy. Sharpness, CA control - not so cool, the lens indeed is soft wide open, especially in daylight, there are some CA, flares when shoot directly to the sun light. This is a pretty old design lens, that`s why it has those flaws and there fore must be used at darker scenes to fully unlock its potential, like with most of the vintage ultra fast lenses, most of the optical flaws including softness becomes less evident when the sun is below horizon, blue hour, or night city environment is probably suited the best for this lens. There is also a need to test this lens in BW, because many of the old design lenses were designed for BW photography, some of the vintage lenses react quite differently between colored and BW photos. By the way, the lens design is based on Zunow 50mm 1.1f lens, quite old rare and expensive lens, compared side by side 7 artisans look a little better Zunow looks a lot worse wide open.
Cons and pros well descussed. That comparison with Canon rangefinder F 0.95 was priceless. At least saves me 2K $ as I really don't see a reason to buy my dream lens anymore. Thanks,
I tested this lens on M10, and your results seem to be in line with what I found. However, I was more interested in its performance in real life situations of people photography for which this lens was clearly meant. Your test was more demanding, but I doubt that anyone would use this lens for taking pictures of the small print and finely texturized surfaces :) As a portrait lens (face occupies 15-20% of an image), I actually liked it better than 1/50 Noctilux, especially against the light where this little bastard did not show ANY chromatic aberrations in a plane of focus at f/1.1. The problem, however, was not with the optics, but with the rangefinder coupler. The cam angle was too steep, which made it impossible to calibrate the lens for the full focusing range. It could be calibrated either for long distance (5 meters to infinity), or close distance (something like 70cm to 3m). My conclusion was, they still have some work to do to make this lens suitable for M cameras, but for the SL it is a godsend gift, especially considering its non-clicking aperture ring.
Thank you for the great review. I just ordered one for my used Leica M. I can't wait to see how it's character looks on B&W film. BTW that Epson is a cool looking camera. looks like a Bessa with old Brit sports car gauges.
E. A. Szolis Glad you enjoyed the review! The Epson looks a lot like a Bessa because Cosina (which manufactures the Bessa) supplied the body, shutter, and rangefinder/viewfinder. Epson did the electronics, including those cool dial gauges, which I believe were developed by Epson's parent company, Seiko (which also makes wristwatches.)
I really enjoyed the comparison. I also highly suggest you’d make a video about 7Artisans 35mm f2 which it’s a truly remarkable lens considering the price. There almost no reason to go for a Zeiss M mount lens if you want the Sonnar look unless you need the inherently slight better performance of the Zeiss one.
Thanks! I've got the 7Artisans 35/2 and have started assembling some video clips about it. I probably won't do quite such a detailed set of comparison images as with the 50/1.1 -- the 35/2's more conservative maximum aperture means its "Sonnar look" is less pronounced (although still there) so there's less difference to see. For Sonnar fans it's definitely more cost effective than (for example) hunting down a 35mm f/1.8 Nikkor in L39 thread!
It's still weird how the "M&M" markings on the book is still cleaner on the chinese lens but the extreme corner breaks down...I kinda like that. Buying one for sure for video use.
This 7 Artisan 50mm f1.1 lens is sharper than the Leica 50mm f1.0 Version 4 at both widest aperture and stop down, the bokeh is the same on or so similar few can tell them apart. The new Leica 50mm f0.95 will be sharper but it doesn't have the magic glow the Artisan offers. I sold the Leica 50mm f1.0 for the same price I bought it for and if you look around the Leica 50mm f1.0 prices have been the same for the last 10 years, fewer are changing hands because we're getting wiser that older fast lenses does not have the same quality control or computer design as the new modern lenses. If anyone want a sharp and wide aperture lens that don't have the Leica 50mm f0.95 price or look (ugly to me), then Mitakon's 50mm f0.95 is a really good choice follow closely by 7Artisan 50mm f1.1, we have never been so spoiled with so many affordable lenses to choose from.
Excellent analysis. Thank you. I wonder if a lens hood would help tone down the haziness when shooting wide open by reducing the amount of stray light coming from the sides that may end up bouncing around the inner barrel of the lens.
Finally a review with a good intro about RF concepts. Seems odd to me that the Nokton is worse in the center when stopped down... focus shift ? P.S. The title should also say “on APS-C” ;-)
Dan S. Lens design is always a compromise. My guess is that the Nokton is highly optimized for wide-aperture performance, so diffraction hurts it more when stopped down. Yes, I should have said APS-C so people wondering how this lens will perform on their full-plate Daguerreotype cameras would know they need to look elsewhere... :-P
Thanks for a really clear and objective review - one thing I'm not clear on is why the comparisons using the bookshelf around 10:00 use the Voigtlander 1.5 rather than the Voigtlander' s 1.1, which would have provided a more appropriate comparison ?
Simple reason: I don't own the Voigtlander 50/1.1! (I owned one for a while, but decided I didn't need both that and the Canon 50/0.95.) Also, while it would be comparable to the 7Artisans lens in maximum aperture, it's roughly twice as expensive (depending on when and where you buy it) so I felt that a used Voigtlander 50/1.5 would be more comparable in terms of what you could get for about the same money as the 7Artisans lens.
nukecoke87 Point taken, although other manufacturers manage it. It does require a more complex mechanical design of both the blades and their control mechanism, so 7Artisans may have decided it was not worth pursuing at this price point. I am guessing this lens will appeal primarily to people who enjoy using vintage optics, and of course they're used to this sort of thing.
I have a 150$ Nikon LTM with 15 aperture blades and evenly spaced aperture clicks. And a 12-bladed Leica Summilux like that. It's not the aperture blades that determine the distance, it's mechanics, which, as the video said, changed sometime in the 1950s.
Yep. The earliest lens design I have with evenly spaced aperture settings is the v2 Leitz 50/2 Summicron. Came out in 1956. (Mine is a '60. One of my all-time favs.) Your Nikkor could be even earlier…
Which Nikkor LTM do you have with evenly spaced aperture clicks? The 5cm F2 Rigid, 5cm F1.4, 13.5cm F3.5, 8.5cm F2, 3.5cm F2.5, and 3.5cm F3.5 LTM lenses all have geometric progression F-Stops like the 7Artisans lens. The Nikkor lenses added the Click Stop mechanism around 1952.
Forgive me people. I know it is of course possible to have evenly spaced aperture markers, but the shape of the aperture blades need to be special and well calculated. Apparently the 7artisan makers saved the energy(and cost) to make it evenly spaced and spent it on something else, and I fully understand why they did so. Cheers,
TheMishupo I used to own the Voigtlander 50/1.1 and agree it's a good lens; it's several hundred US$ more expensive, but probably a better choice for people who want a lens with more conventional performance. I think the 7Artisans lens will appeal mostly to people who like the distinctive “look” of Sonnar-design lenses, and it's much less expensive to buy new than the Zeiss 50mm f/1.5 Sonnar.
Regarding the calibration process: I set the camera up exactly as mentioned (tripod 2m away and camera up so I get an angel of 30degree). So when you think of this setup as a triangle, the actual distance from the focus point on the floor to the focal plane of the camera is a bit longer than 2m. I was wondering if the calibration is correct if you match the marking at 2m on the lens while everything is in focus in your viewfinder - I think you should get a backfocus in reallife? Am I wrong?
Thomas Schweichhart I guess that might work, but personally I'd be reluctant to trust the accuracy of the distance markings on the lens -- they're just calculated for an "average" lens rather than individually calibrated. At wide aperture and close distance, focusing accuracy is a matter of millimeters, so I'd rather rely on visually examining the results from my individual lens. I realize this isn't very convenient if you're calibrating to a film camera rather than a digital one, since you'll have to develop a roll of film each time you change the adjustment! In a pinch I suppose one could try the old trick of putting a piece of ground glass on the film rails and using that to see where the focus point is, although personally I always had trouble getting the glass to stay exactly where the film would sit.
J.L. Williams I get what you mean and I think you are right. So since my copy isn’t on spot I may have to go through that process :-/ Thanks for your opinion!
Thomas Schweichhart That looks like a good way to do it with a film camera. Of course you adjusted the focus cam on the lens rather than adjusting the rangefinder as shown in the video, right? ...because changing the rangefinder adjustment would throw off focusing of other lenses.
J.L. Williams Yeah exactly, I changed the position of the brass ring inside the lens as shown in the manual from 7artisans. But for checking the focus I used the mentioned method from the linked video.
I don't have an A7 so can't be sure, but would suggest testing carefully. One unusual thing about the design of the 7Artisans lens is that the rear optical section protrudes more deeply than usual. For example, I was surprised to find that I could not mount it on my Olympus Micro Four Thirds camera because the rear section strikes a raised area inside the camera mount. (By comparison, the Canon 50mm f/0.95 lens shown in the video mounts on the Olympus with no problems.) Of course the Sony has a much larger mount, but there still might be some piece inside that gets in the way. So again, I would say examine carefully first, then be gentle the first time you try attaching the lens.
Great review. I just got a 7 artisans Lens 55MM F1.4 for my X-Pro2, but the shutter is not responding despite the fact the camera is on Manual: anyone any leads to work this out??
Alejandro Jimenez Did you check the custom functions to make sure “Shoot Without Lens” is enabled? Sorry, I don't have my camera in front of me so I can't tell you where it is in the menus...
Thank you J.L. Williams : that was it: I found the answer on the link I shared. Thanks again: really enjoyed your video and I am really enjoying the 7 artisans 50MM F.1.4
Dwanel Barman I don't have a DSLR with which to test, but my guess would be no: an M-mount body is thinner than a DSLR body, so in general it's not possible to adapt M lenses to DSLRs.
Alexander Hakimi If somebody wants to send me one, I'll be happy to! My favorite back when I had Leicas was the M-4P (loved hearing people gas about "German craftsmanship" and then showing them the "Made in Canada" engraving) although I wouldn't turn up my nose at a loaner M10 :-)
somewhat of an unfair comparison, as that lens, like the Leica equivalent is from the outset designed with film in mind, the modern lens, ie. the Fuji is designed out of the box for a digital sensor of it's size (a.p.s.c. or full frame), thus the analogue lens is not going to perform as well on a digital body, which has special quirks (C.A. , hazing , lens flare,etc.)- as a result of the C.m.o.s. sensor physical properties; should compare with voigtlander and Leica glass, an 'even' playing field, as all are designed around similar parameters and for like range-finder bodies.
Yeah... believe it or not, when this lens first came out there was a lot of back-and-forth in the M-mount community between “It's surprisingly good, or at least interesting” and “I would never sully my Leica with this piece of junk.”
Normally I just use the Nokton for black-and-white, so the color fringing doesn't bother me, and I suppose I could have corrected it in post if I had to. But I agree that straight out of the camera, the 7A has a nicer look.
@@jlwilliams I dont think you could do well in post with that much of it, you will end with washed out blues at best, this nokton is really bad in colour.
Mine is the original version; I think it's been redesigned at least twice since then... maybe that's one reason why! Also, mine is old enough that it was probably designed primarily for film cameras and not optimized for digital. Doesn't worry me for b&w, but may be an issue for others...
Pulling out that Epson R-D1 was a serious gangster maneuver. What a cool camera.
hahaha exactly!!!
those Epson are going for >1000 on ebay, not bad for 15 y.o. digital camera
What are the cool analog indicators on top of the camera and what picture is "analog" on it! Amazing.
Now! This is my dream and I want it to my collection.
Great review from obviously someone who understands camera, lens design and photo rendering. How refreshing versus typical "hobby enthusiast" turn reviewer which usually focuses only on what their preference is with little depth. Many thanks!!
I like this lens for couple of reasons, first its small and light compared to other ultra fast lenses, it is cheap, it has a proper aperture mechanism ( 12 or 13 petals, which gives rounded bokeh even stopped down), the lens character between 1,1f and 1,4f differ quite a lot, at 1,1f it has very harsh bokeh rendering, while at 1,4f background becomes creamy.
Sharpness, CA control - not so cool, the lens indeed is soft wide open, especially in daylight, there are some CA, flares when shoot directly to the sun light.
This is a pretty old design lens, that`s why it has those flaws and there fore must be used at darker scenes to fully unlock its potential, like with most of the vintage ultra fast lenses, most of the optical flaws including softness becomes less evident when the sun is below horizon, blue hour, or night city environment is probably suited the best for this lens. There is also a need to test this lens in BW, because many of the old design lenses were designed for BW photography, some of the vintage lenses react quite differently between colored and BW photos.
By the way, the lens design is based on Zunow 50mm 1.1f lens, quite old rare and expensive lens, compared side by side 7 artisans look a little better Zunow looks a lot worse wide open.
6:40 When he said “my phones got more than that heh heh heh” I heckin smashed that like
Good to see an R-D1! I have one, too. It's the most beautiful camera in the world!
It's the only modern steampunk camera. I think 'beautiful' is saying much. But one of a kind, yes.
You are totally right, had one for a while and the look and feel is amazing
Fantastic review. I was unhappy about the Voigtlander due to the lack of sharpness and I was looking at the 7Artisan, and now I'll just get the Loxia.
Cons and pros well descussed. That comparison with Canon rangefinder F 0.95 was priceless. At least saves me 2K $ as I really don't see a reason to buy my dream lens anymore.
Thanks,
I tested this lens on M10, and your results seem to be in line with what I found. However, I was more interested in its performance in real life situations of people photography for which this lens was clearly meant. Your test was more demanding, but I doubt that anyone would use this lens for taking pictures of the small print and finely texturized surfaces :)
As a portrait lens (face occupies 15-20% of an image), I actually liked it better than 1/50 Noctilux, especially against the light where this little bastard did not show ANY chromatic aberrations in a plane of focus at f/1.1.
The problem, however, was not with the optics, but with the rangefinder coupler. The cam angle was too steep, which made it impossible to calibrate the lens for the full focusing range. It could be calibrated either for long distance (5 meters to infinity), or close distance (something like 70cm to 3m).
My conclusion was, they still have some work to do to make this lens suitable for M cameras, but for the SL it is a godsend gift, especially considering its non-clicking aperture ring.
Thanks for your input, it's an interesting lens for sure!
Great review. Took a lot of time and effort. Really helpful to those considering the lens. Thank you.
Thank you for the great review. I just ordered one for my used Leica M. I can't wait to see how it's character looks on B&W film. BTW that Epson is a cool looking camera. looks like a Bessa with old Brit sports car gauges.
E. A. Szolis Glad you enjoyed the review! The Epson looks a lot like a Bessa because Cosina (which manufactures the Bessa) supplied the body, shutter, and rangefinder/viewfinder. Epson did the electronics, including those cool dial gauges, which I believe were developed by Epson's parent company, Seiko (which also makes wristwatches.)
Funnily enough I had my 7artisans 59mm f1.1 on my Epson R-D1 yesterday, great results
I really enjoyed the comparison. I also highly suggest you’d make a video about 7Artisans 35mm f2 which it’s a truly remarkable lens considering the price. There almost no reason to go for a Zeiss M mount lens if you want the Sonnar look unless you need the inherently slight better performance of the Zeiss one.
Thanks! I've got the 7Artisans 35/2 and have started assembling some video clips about it. I probably won't do quite such a detailed set of comparison images as with the 50/1.1 -- the 35/2's more conservative maximum aperture means its "Sonnar look" is less pronounced (although still there) so there's less difference to see. For Sonnar fans it's definitely more cost effective than (for example) hunting down a 35mm f/1.8 Nikkor in L39 thread!
Headcanon is now that the rd1s frame counters sounds like a big old AC unit. I've never wanted it more.
It's still weird how the "M&M" markings on the book is still cleaner on the chinese lens but the extreme corner breaks down...I kinda like that. Buying one for sure for video use.
R-D1 - on my bucket list - great presentation.
This 7 Artisan 50mm f1.1 lens is sharper than the Leica 50mm f1.0 Version 4 at both widest aperture and stop down, the bokeh is the same on or so similar few can tell them apart. The new Leica 50mm f0.95 will be sharper but it doesn't have the magic glow the Artisan offers. I sold the Leica 50mm f1.0 for the same price I bought it for and if you look around the Leica 50mm f1.0 prices have been the same for the last 10 years, fewer are changing hands because we're getting wiser that older fast lenses does not have the same quality control or computer design as the new modern lenses. If anyone want a sharp and wide aperture lens that don't have the Leica 50mm f0.95 price or look (ugly to me), then Mitakon's 50mm f0.95 is a really good choice follow closely by 7Artisan 50mm f1.1, we have never been so spoiled with so many affordable lenses to choose from.
Great review! And great camera! Love it! My dream now, honestly! Thanks!
What a huge bit of glass. Great video.
Thank You. Great conclusion i will get one for my M6!
Perhaps I'll grab one of these for my R-D1.
Incredible job 👍 THANKS !
Thank your for the time and effort put into this review.
Excellent analysis. Thank you. I wonder if a lens hood would help tone down the haziness when shooting wide open by reducing the amount of stray light coming from the sides that may end up bouncing around the inner barrel of the lens.
Thank you for your videos! Very interesting to watch.
Very good review and very informative, Thank you!
Support! Please keep making videos.
R-d1 is a gorgeous camera
Finally a review with a good intro about RF concepts. Seems odd to me that the Nokton is worse in the center when stopped down... focus shift ? P.S. The title should also say “on APS-C” ;-)
Dan S. Lens design is always a compromise. My guess is that the Nokton is highly optimized for wide-aperture performance, so diffraction hurts it more when stopped down. Yes, I should have said APS-C so people wondering how this lens will perform on their full-plate Daguerreotype cameras would know they need to look elsewhere... :-P
Excellent review, thank you.
Thanks for a really clear and objective review - one thing I'm not clear on is why the comparisons using the bookshelf around 10:00 use the Voigtlander 1.5 rather than the Voigtlander' s 1.1, which would have provided a more appropriate comparison ?
Simple reason: I don't own the Voigtlander 50/1.1! (I owned one for a while, but decided I didn't need both that and the Canon 50/0.95.) Also, while it would be comparable to the 7Artisans lens in maximum aperture, it's roughly twice as expensive (depending on when and where you buy it) so I felt that a used Voigtlander 50/1.5 would be more comparable in terms of what you could get for about the same money as the 7Artisans lens.
Very nice review
Nicely done! 👍
Excellent video!! Thanks a lot.
I wonder if manual focusing on the X-T1 will be better than the Pro
Fantastic review and overview extremely detailed down to earth teaching. Get a Pateron produce more of the same quality content.
That canon 0.95 though omgawd !
It's very difficult to make the aperture markers evenly spaced, when there are so many aperture blades.
nukecoke87 Point taken, although other manufacturers manage it. It does require a more complex mechanical design of both the blades and their control mechanism, so 7Artisans may have decided it was not worth pursuing at this price point. I am guessing this lens will appeal primarily to people who enjoy using vintage optics, and of course they're used to this sort of thing.
I have a 150$ Nikon LTM with 15 aperture blades and evenly spaced aperture clicks. And a 12-bladed Leica Summilux like that. It's not the aperture blades that determine the distance, it's mechanics, which, as the video said, changed sometime in the 1950s.
Yep. The earliest lens design I have with evenly spaced aperture settings is the v2 Leitz 50/2 Summicron. Came out in 1956. (Mine is a '60. One of my all-time favs.) Your Nikkor could be even earlier…
Which Nikkor LTM do you have with evenly spaced aperture clicks? The 5cm F2 Rigid, 5cm F1.4, 13.5cm F3.5, 8.5cm F2, 3.5cm F2.5, and 3.5cm F3.5 LTM lenses all have geometric progression F-Stops like the 7Artisans lens. The Nikkor lenses added the Click Stop mechanism around 1952.
Forgive me people. I know it is of course possible to have evenly spaced aperture markers, but the shape of the aperture blades need to be special and well calculated. Apparently the 7artisan makers saved the energy(and cost) to make it evenly spaced and spent it on something else, and I fully understand why they did so. Cheers,
good review! thx
duuude you have an rd1?!? do you have a video on that?
excellent review
good review...
I think it is a waste of money, if someone needs a budget lens Voigtlander is much better option.
Thank you for a great video !
TheMishupo I used to own the Voigtlander 50/1.1 and agree it's a good lens; it's several hundred US$ more expensive, but probably a better choice for people who want a lens with more conventional performance. I think the 7Artisans lens will appeal mostly to people who like the distinctive “look” of Sonnar-design lenses, and it's much less expensive to buy new than the Zeiss 50mm f/1.5 Sonnar.
Regarding the calibration process: I set the camera up exactly as mentioned (tripod 2m away and camera up so I get an angel of 30degree). So when you think of this setup as a triangle, the actual distance from the focus point on the floor to the focal plane of the camera is a bit longer than 2m. I was wondering if the calibration is correct if you match the marking at 2m on the lens while everything is in focus in your viewfinder - I think you should get a backfocus in reallife? Am I wrong?
Thomas Schweichhart I guess that might work, but personally I'd be reluctant to trust the accuracy of the distance markings on the lens -- they're just calculated for an "average" lens rather than individually calibrated. At wide aperture and close distance, focusing accuracy is a matter of millimeters, so I'd rather rely on visually examining the results from my individual lens. I realize this isn't very convenient if you're calibrating to a film camera rather than a digital one, since you'll have to develop a roll of film each time you change the adjustment! In a pinch I suppose one could try the old trick of putting a piece of ground glass on the film rails and using that to see where the focus point is, although personally I always had trouble getting the glass to stay exactly where the film would sit.
J.L. Williams I get what you mean and I think you are right. So since my copy isn’t on spot I may have to go through that process :-/ Thanks for your opinion!
Just if anybody is reading this: I used this method to get spot on focus at 1.1
ruclips.net/video/WnzqW8q-0D4/видео.html
Thomas Schweichhart That looks like a good way to do it with a film camera. Of course you adjusted the focus cam on the lens rather than adjusting the rangefinder as shown in the video, right? ...because changing the rangefinder adjustment would throw off focusing of other lenses.
J.L. Williams Yeah exactly, I changed the position of the brass ring inside the lens as shown in the manual from 7artisans. But for checking the focus I used the mentioned method from the linked video.
Can I adapt this lens on Sony A7 with of course, an adapter?
I don't have an A7 so can't be sure, but would suggest testing carefully. One unusual thing about the design of the 7Artisans lens is that the rear optical section protrudes more deeply than usual. For example, I was surprised to find that I could not mount it on my Olympus Micro Four Thirds camera because the rear section strikes a raised area inside the camera mount. (By comparison, the Canon 50mm f/0.95 lens shown in the video mounts on the Olympus with no problems.) Of course the Sony has a much larger mount, but there still might be some piece inside that gets in the way. So again, I would say examine carefully first, then be gentle the first time you try attaching the lens.
yes
Great review. I just got a 7 artisans Lens 55MM F1.4 for my X-Pro2, but the shutter is not responding despite the fact the camera is on Manual: anyone any leads to work this out??
Alejandro Jimenez Did you check the custom functions to make sure “Shoot Without Lens” is enabled? Sorry, I don't have my camera in front of me so I can't tell you where it is in the menus...
Answer to my question here: ruclips.net/video/9vUG1mNI8e0/видео.html
Thank you J.L. Williams : that was it: I found the answer on the link I shared. Thanks again: really enjoyed your video and I am really enjoying the 7 artisans 50MM F.1.4
Can you post a video on the Epson R-D1?
Great idea... I'll work on it. In the meantime, you might like this one that TheCamera Store TV did: ruclips.net/video/YIOk6kmYOWc/видео.html
can it be used with full frame dslr with respective adapters
Dwanel Barman I don't have a DSLR with which to test, but my guess would be no: an M-mount body is thinner than a DSLR body, so in general it's not possible to adapt M lenses to DSLRs.
you've gotta throw a leica summilux/noctilux in the mix.
Alexander Hakimi If somebody wants to send me one, I'll be happy to! My favorite back when I had Leicas was the M-4P (loved hearing people gas about "German craftsmanship" and then showing them the "Made in Canada" engraving) although I wouldn't turn up my nose at a loaner M10 :-)
somewhat of an unfair comparison, as that lens, like the Leica equivalent is from the outset designed with film in mind, the modern lens, ie. the Fuji is designed out of the box for a digital sensor of it's size (a.p.s.c. or full frame), thus the analogue lens is not going to perform as well on a digital body, which has special quirks (C.A. , hazing , lens flare,etc.)- as a result of the C.m.o.s. sensor physical properties; should compare with voigtlander and Leica glass, an 'even' playing field, as all are designed around similar parameters and for like range-finder bodies.
I'm not here to be fair, I'm just here to show what happens.
Great Video :)
Controversial?
Yeah... believe it or not, when this lens first came out there was a lot of back-and-forth in the M-mount community between “It's surprisingly good, or at least interesting” and “I would never sully my Leica with this piece of junk.”
Nokton have awful chromatic abberration every high contrast spot glowing purple. I prefer dreamy look.
Normally I just use the Nokton for black-and-white, so the color fringing doesn't bother me, and I suppose I could have corrected it in post if I had to. But I agree that straight out of the camera, the 7A has a nicer look.
@@jlwilliams I dont think you could do well in post with that much of it, you will end with washed out blues at best, this nokton is really bad in colour.
Mine is the original version; I think it's been redesigned at least twice since then... maybe that's one reason why! Also, mine is old enough that it was probably designed primarily for film cameras and not optimized for digital. Doesn't worry me for b&w, but may be an issue for others...
Are you in a freezer ?
oh my gosh!!!! hahahahahah
Like the chart “fix” though I won’t be buying this lens..