Replaced 11 Old Wood Frame Windows With New Glass Block Windows. All Footage Shot on GoPro Hero 9 Edited In Adobe Premiere Pro All Music Written By Garrett A. Ginn
@@squirrelgirl1712 The portion with glass that actually opens/moves has a few screws on the left and right sides. You can remove the portion with the glass by removing the screws. Alternatively, if damage has been done to the vinyl casing of the air vent, you can replace it... It's just not as easy.
Yes. Installers will use Durock (Cement Board) as well. It's to level the window (Along with shims) and create enough spacing under the panel for a matching mortar joint (in relation to the top's size)
Yes. the majority of the time they're taken out (and recommended to) because of the potential for rot. If they're in good shape and you don't mind painting/sealing periodically then you should be okay.
@@jwb0323 the mortar will adhere to the wood, seal it, and prevent it from moving. If something happens to the wood regardless of how it was sealed, that's when you'll see and issue. Caulk works too if the spacing is tight enough.
I've used Type S and Type N. I've never had an issue with either. I personally don't use the premix. It's usually a little heavy on the sand which makes it harder to squeeze out of the grout bag.
I actually wanted to asee the larger window
Hi is there a way to replace the window frame middle part only without having to replace the glass block?
Are you referring to the air vent?
@@ginnglassblock yes
@@squirrelgirl1712 The portion with glass that actually opens/moves has a few screws on the left and right sides. You can remove the portion with the glass by removing the screws.
Alternatively, if damage has been done to the vinyl casing of the air vent, you can replace it... It's just not as easy.
This looks like nothing but hard work to me. Nice looking finished job though
Did you leave pieces of drywall under window and mortar over them?
Yes. Installers will use Durock (Cement Board) as well. It's to level the window (Along with shims) and create enough spacing under the panel for a matching mortar joint (in relation to the top's size)
@@ginnglassblock thanks I will use that instead of 2x4
@stevekane615 I'm not sure where you live, but in Ohio you can go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy damaged dry wall for $2 (8' x 4') sheet.
I have a few pieces so I’m good , thanks
What did you use to smooth mortar out?
I was wondering the same thing!
I think it is a foam paint brush...?
Could you have left the wood frame in ?
Yes. the majority of the time they're taken out (and recommended to) because of the potential for rot. If they're in good shape and you don't mind painting/sealing periodically then you should be okay.
@@ginnglassblock thanks - I thought I had saw that the mortar wouldn’t adhere to the wood very well so you also had to put caulk
@@jwb0323 the mortar will adhere to the wood, seal it, and prevent it from moving. If something happens to the wood regardless of how it was sealed, that's when you'll see and issue. Caulk works too if the spacing is tight enough.
What type of mortar around the window?
I've used Type S and Type N. I've never had an issue with either.
I personally don't use the premix. It's usually a little heavy on the sand which makes it harder to squeeze out of the grout bag.