In the UK, Klear is now Pledge 'revive it' floor polish. I can't be doing with the smell of lacquer paints anymore - not so much when using the paint booth, but the cleaning up afterwards, so I'm using Mission Models. I think you just have to follow the 'system' instructions carefully until you are comfortable with them. For brush painting I've been using the new Ammo Atom paints - they are excellent.
I find that the decals comes out better if there is no water in the mix, so i put the sheet on a wet paper and then when the decals comes loose i pick it up and dry it with a bit of paper so it has no water on it, then i use the decal solutions to stick it to the model, comes out realy good every time
I have not used Mission Models' paint, before. But, in my experience; water based acrylics of any brand do not lend themselves to good airbrushing. I'm sure to get some grief, but; this includes Vallejo. The solvent based acrylics, such as Tamiya and Gunze Sanyo; are much better for airbrushing. They also adhere much better. My Sotar will spray the aforementioned Tamiya and Gunze, all day long with no problems. I can spray a hairline with them. But, it will balk every single time with Vallejo or similar. Thinner needles and nozzles seem to have issues with the surface tension of the water based paints. Just my 60+ year experience, not claiming to be an expert. You did a very nice recovery from the problems you encountered. I hadn't seen you around in awhile and sort of wondered if you were still on the Tube. Nice job. Enjoyed your video.
They’re fine, they behave like most acrylics. You’re right about Tamiya, Gunze and I’d add Ak real colours. The best for airbrushing finish are enamels, no question, but the stink means I rarely use them!…
You’re right some models can get really darkened by a wash, you could try your own oil based mix or you could try the liquid pigments and water based products on the market, I use Lifecolor liquid pigments for this often, although they can stain a tiny bit. Best to keep the solvent washes as a localised pin wash.
In the UK, Klear is now Pledge 'revive it' floor polish. I can't be doing with the smell of lacquer paints anymore - not so much when using the paint booth, but the cleaning up afterwards, so I'm using Mission Models. I think you just have to follow the 'system' instructions carefully until you are comfortable with them. For brush painting I've been using the new Ammo Atom paints - they are excellent.
I find that the decals comes out better if there is no water in the mix, so i put the sheet on a wet paper and then when the decals comes loose i pick it up and dry it with a bit of paper so it has no water on it, then i use the decal solutions to stick it to the model, comes out realy good every time
I have not used Mission Models' paint, before. But, in my experience; water based acrylics of any brand do not lend themselves to good airbrushing. I'm sure to get some grief, but; this includes Vallejo. The solvent based acrylics, such as Tamiya and Gunze Sanyo; are much better for airbrushing. They also adhere much better. My Sotar will spray the aforementioned Tamiya and Gunze, all day long with no problems. I can spray a hairline with them. But, it will balk every single time with Vallejo or similar. Thinner needles and nozzles seem to have issues with the surface tension of the water based paints. Just my 60+ year experience, not claiming to be an expert. You did a very nice recovery from the problems you encountered. I hadn't seen you around in awhile and sort of wondered if you were still on the Tube. Nice job. Enjoyed your video.
They’re fine, they behave like most acrylics. You’re right about Tamiya, Gunze and I’d add Ak real colours. The best for airbrushing finish are enamels, no question, but the stink means I rarely use them!…
Thank you for sharing. Do you have a recommended Wash that will do primarily recess shading with minimal to no surface staining? regards.
You’re right some models can get really darkened by a wash, you could try your own oil based mix or you could try the liquid pigments and water based products on the market, I use Lifecolor liquid pigments for this often, although they can stain a tiny bit. Best to keep the solvent washes as a localised pin wash.
@@scalewarmachines thx.
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