It is worth carrying around a little bit of 0000 steel wool in your pocket when looking around at flea markets and swoop meets. A light rub can allow you to see through the rust and find the brand of tools.
My 2 cents regarding soaking hammer handles - All of my handles get hickory wedges instead of steel, then the handles are charred with a torch, then while still hot, they get soaked in warm boiled linseed oil. I just put them handle-up in a bench vise and wipe the oil on with a rag. The wood really takes up the oil when it's hot. I hang all of my hammers up at waist/leg height (blacksmith shop) for easy access, so it's pretty convenient for me to go around and put a few drops of linseed oil on the hammer eyes once or twice a year. I also wipe all of my hammer and axe heads down with linseed oil, too. It helps keep them from rusting.
With regard to the shortage of drill. So to speak, when I was an Apprentice back in the 1960s I wanted to drill a 6" deep hole down the length of a stainless steel bar 0.2 inch diameter hole. One of the old guys, now long gone, said I could extend a drill by soldering an extension to it, just end to end joint and tinmans solder. We tried it and it worked perfectly We even ground relief on the shank on a bench grinder to clear swarf. The drilling was done on an old gear drive spindle drill. Great days!
Hey Richard, I have done that myself several times. I only had one 51/64 reduced shank around that I didn't want to modify for this particular job. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
That monarch lathe looks like it was fully rebuilt. That would explain how clean everything is. As long as it was done well, that price tag doesn't sound bad. The only problem with it compared to a modem lathe would be if the vacuum tubs go bad, it will be difficult to find replacements.
An accomplished printmaker friend of mine (the now late Janice McBride) was very impressed with the phenolic platen on her etching press over the steel platen. The steel platen (slightly warped) became the top of my workbench.
Hey Void. There are some advantages with phenolic bed plates. Depending on testing with the new little press the steel plate may get replaced. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hopefully we get the full restore unlike the last press you started, 😆 sorry, couldn't miss the friendly dig. BTW I was looking for a video that I remembered watching about 5 years ago but the video list now only goes back 3 years for some reason.
Nice scores. I picked up a Bridgeport a few weeks ago for $750 after watching the local classifieds for years, so they are out there if you're patient (and mine isn't even clapped out).
Tom, when I was young, a long time ago, I cut and bucked firewood to make some cash. If the axe or maul head started getting loose I would just drop it head down into a bucket of water overnight. Came out good n' tight, I wasn't too worried about a little corrosion, haha! Also, with all those wonderful tools you have I can't believe you don't have a Honda axle stretcher?
You might consider putting two sprockets on top with a chain connecting both sides so that turning one side turns both screws equally. On the adjustment side, you could either put a handle on the top of the sprocket as you described, or you could put a sprocket on the shaft just below the existing hand wheels. It seems like being able to adjust both screws from one side would be much more convenient than having to reach across to adjust the other side.
@pauldzim Thanks. I'm not familiar with the process. I'm really not even sure what it's used for. I was only trying to come up with a way to maintain equal adjustment.
Have seen tube rollers setup like that, but controlling the lash is the hard part. It needs an adjustable tensioner of some sort. I think I’d figure out how to put a rotary counter on each screw. Bottom out with no load on press, torque to same reading, zero both counters and hope they hold some semblance of tolerance. This would square you to the deck and give you a zero start.
I suppose you could install the dowels in a length of black pipe ( slip fit) and test the force to press them out after a soak. Linseed oil, and loctite both have some gap filling capability. Thanks for the video
I'm excited about watching your enlivening of that printing press. I remember the series where you made an etching press for your wife from scratch. It was truly a work of art, your wife is a lucky lady. I hope she will share some of her work some day.
Hey Virginia. As a celebration of finishing the monster press I am trying to get her to do a limited run of prints off it that viewers could purchase. You will probably have to wait a little longer to see one....Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Man Tom is becoming quite the woodworker did you see him effortlessly cutting those dowels and hickory no less lol love it Tom can't wait to see the results and oh isn't Anti-Freeze as expensive as Loctite?🙂
I don't know about red Loctite, but a drop of blue Loctite on certain injection molded plastics will, over time, find every stress line in the part and continue flowing through them until the part crumbles into tiny chunks. My brother-in-law was the QA engineer for a major instrument maker (tachometers and similar gauges) and he had examples of their gauge cluster back cases where there were blue spider web like structures throughout the parts. The cases were black so the contrast made the flow pattern of the Loctite stand out. Basically the Loctite never stopped flowing through the material. PCBs due something similar in masonry structures. In the Northeast this phenomena has resulted in many old school buildings having PCB contamination in the exterior brick around window frames where a s PCB additive was used in window caulk as an extender when working in cold weather. Sometimes tearing back the brick a foot or sow of brick will solve the problem, sometimes the contamination is so extensive, typically in concrete framed buildings, that demolition and building new is the most economical solution. Chemistry can be weird.
Hey William. Interesting! We did a medical plastic job one time where we had to remove all solvents from the building prior to the plastic arriving. Of course the customer paid for us to shuffle all the bottles and cans out of the shop and put them back when we were done. Crazing is a real deal. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
@@oxtoolco Years ago on a Navy project we needed to bond surface acoustic wave touch screens to Sony CRT displays using a pourable RTV optical compound.. The company doing the work for us tried out a number of different materials for use in damming the bottom and sides of the air gap between the touch screen and the CRT screen. They tried different types of tape, putties, etc. Chemicals in the various sample dams (e.g. adhesives on the tape) reacted with the RTV compound in different and odd ways. They tested maybe 100 different ideas and ended up with a double door storage cabinet full of beakers from the different tests. In some cases the RTV never cured; in others it cured to the point of becoming brittle, no longer transparent, etc. They finally found a solution that worked but we all walked away thinking "Chemistry is weird."
It’s good to be back to regular meatloaf! Capillary action through xylem “tubes” in wood is a very effective transport system. It will be interesting to see which migrates through the section most effectively. Im going to say the 2 oils should move differently than the antifreeze….
Nice video Tom! The only thing I might added on to the wicking test… would have been to weigh the dowels prior to the immersion…. Maybe weigh the cups of liquid too. I’m interested to see the results. Is that boiled linseed oil? All the best… Chuck
For hammer heads I use Minwax wood hardener. It’s like Tite Chairs but you get about 14x more for the money. Pour on or use a syringe until it stops soaking in. Basically it’s really thin superglue.
Yes - I wonder if that supercheap dollar/pound bottle superglue will do the trick, it is really thin and unless you use it within a few days the whole bottle turns into thick syrup!
That's way cool, you bought an old tool off craigslist and your wife was excited about it? Dayum...wiz...she's a keeper for sure...I'm not sure I've run into that "problem".🤔
Have you tried Evapo-rust for rust removal. Suggest you may want to try it to remove the rust from your flea market find tools. Saves a lot of hand work.
Hey Gordon, I'll leave that for somebody else. Those tools are going to the Bar Z bash in June for the flea market table. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
I eagerly look forward to the results of the hickory soak test. My only experience is that my dad used to soak mauls in water overnight to swell the handle and then I learned somewhere to use antifreeze and so far that's worked well. Very interested to see how the linseed oil works.
Hey Martin. My favorite adjustable wrenches are Diamond super wides. They open larger than others of the same size. Very useful feature. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
If you put that dowels at the slight angle, it will wick better, cos cross cut wil be exposed. Also, you can put some glass or jar over to prevent turpentine from evaporating. Usualy, this mixture is poured into a some sort of plastic bag, then wraped around the handle or whatever is the part, so there is no much air in a bag. This prevents linseed oil from hardening prematurly. Of course.. not every plastic bag can whitstand turpentine (bags from LED strips, or other electronics, that are metalized inside work whell).
I've always used modeling, super thin superglue to harden wood. Sometimes i use a pump to press the glue inside the wood as well. It becomes very hard and cutting it with a saw becomes a chore as it gums up the blade. Sidenote, if you want a walking stick that looks cool but it's also super strong, for hiking, you take a straight shoot of grape vine, cut it neatly at both ends and then suck epoxy through it. Grape vines are so aerated inside that if you cut a slice you can see through it.
Hey Aserta, Wood stabilization is a pretty big deal. I have seen some really crumbly woods become as strong as metal with the right impregnating material. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Great episode, Tom! I got very interested in the new press of yours. And it would be a great episode if you made a nice looking wheel over the handle to the new press to hold those handles straight? Tig or mig it? As you did to some other thing in your old shop, cant remeber what it was but it was good looking.
@18:58 I was at a vendor years ago and they had a guy trying to suck oven-chain grease (don't ask) into a syringe. Much bigger one. We're standing there and I say: "Mind if I show you a trick to do that"? Pulled out the plunger and packed the thing with grease, then put it back in. "Try it that way". They all looked at me like "WTF?" 😆
Even the first time you checked those dowels, the 290 had a blush tint ever so slightly. Capillary action is amazing. Fluid dynamics in general teen tend to be casually mind blowing.
Hey Phillip, At first I thought it was some material that came off my fingers. Then I looked a little closer and indeed some had already wicked up. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
I’m interested in the antifreeze solution. Readily available, less expensive per volume, and some dude said it works! My really old pick/trencher cow barn find may find a new life without replacing the handle.
Hey Creasy. I thought I showed the small etching press I build for her at some point? Have to take a look for that one. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hey Geoff. I build a small press for her and am still working on the big monster press which is turning into a career project by now. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
It would be interesting to measure the diameter of the control dowel and compare that to the diameters of the test specimens to see how much they have swelled due to each of the liquids. Used for hammer/sledge handles, it's all about how much they swell, and then stay "swelled" after being removed from the various liquids.
Scrap cast iron is around $200 a ton, so if that press is 200 pounds, it is worth a nice twenty dollar bill. You could make a 4x profit selling it! 🙂 How about putting a couple of sprockets and a bicycle chain between the jackscrews on that press? You could probably get the sides aligned to a few thousandths and they would hopefully stay that way.
There's some guy on RUclips who made a massive etching press from scratch - even the gears! It was super impressive. Not sure what happened to it...rumor has it he traded it for a Space Shuttle tile...or this thing that measures Sharpie ink thickness. 😁
Not certain the volume of the fluids is important to the wood handle test. The cost for "enough" juice is what matters, I think. The cost of Loctite is pretty high compared to a dribble of anti-freeze.
Hey Nick. We will gather as much information as we can during the examination. What it all means is the bigger unknown. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
In thinking about that press, it seems like you could use it for letterpress or intaglio printing. The vertical travel of the roller may give you a hint. As I recall, letterpress slugs were just under an inch tall. (.918 maybe?) But you would never have this for large production work so who would be the target user? Maybe some small shop making posters for local events in rural areas? I bet there’s a good story there someplace if you could somehow dig it out. As I’m thinking of production printing I’m lamenting that fact that the days of the pressman’s hat are fast disappearing. I wish I could make one just because they are cool. I could put it on when using my laser printer….
It’s an intaglio press. Tom’s wife does intaglio printing. It’s not ideal for letterpress, it’s too easy to crush the type, and there’s no way to attach a tympan sheet to the drum.
Hey Glenn. Most presses like this have multiple uses from intaglio to monotype, and wood block. It is really a general purpose squishing press for the artist/printmaker. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Tom, I have one of those old inside/outside calipers ~15" long, no manufacturer name, however the name C W O'neal is scribed/engraved on it, in very fancy old world script. I'm thinking early-mid 1800's.
Hey Glen. You mean the ones that look like they have feet? I'll have to give that one a soak and see if there is a name on it. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Where do I start? The press- those are not bozo holes, “locating pins and receptacles “ is more better…brass plugs set into holes as bearings. the sides of the table can get parallel and hdme inserts in the verticals align the horizontal movement. Clean threads of handwheels, brass “ threaded bushings” top and bottom of verticals for silky smooth adjustments. Lathe type speed handles attached to both to clock. Wife will continue to be amazed by your resourceful attributes for an undetermined length of time 😅. Fantastic project! Now what I would do lacking your tooling and skills: wire brush table, white lithium grease on drive components. 😮. When you get finished the wife will have a two thousand dollar linograph press that was made long ago with available metals and tooling. You are going to be proving that lipstick on a pig works, and improving older objects is a rewarding experience for those of us who are warped enough to keep them alive. Thoroughly enjoy your posts. This one reminds me of a hearty fellow with a southern accent who squeezes cane 😂
Hi Tom, thanks for the video. Sorry if somebody has asked this before but did you ever end up finishing the intaglio etching press that you were making?
On the drill extension, just cut the shank at a 45 degree angle and braze a suitable length of rod on to it. Easy and later if it is too long, just cut it off. I'm still trying to get in touch with you on another matter that you have not responded to.
@@oxtoolco Close enough, I'm retired with a somewhat flexible schedule. To answer your question directly, a smidgen west of Folsom Lake. I will email you again.
I wonder if the enteral structure of the dowel rod is such that the wicking occurs in either direction. But it might flow easier in one direction as in flowing up the tree?
How does sap move in a tree? Sap is a solution of water and minerals. Trees absorb water through their roots by osmosis, and this is moved from the roots to the leaves through a network of tubes called xylem tubes.
@@petemclinc thanks Peter is been more than 50 years since high school. I have forgotten much. I was wondering if there was something in the pipeline that would slow down the water on the way down or maybe speed up on the way up. I don't recall where the absorption of the energy occurred. Now I've got the bug. I'm going to do some looking on the web.
I'd go next size up on the adjustment screws. That casting looks like it can take at least that much, if not more. By the way the whole thing looks, i'd have to say it might be some kind of do it yourself press from patterns.
I have to wonder if any of those products with embrittle the wood? Hard is good until it makes something brittle. We don't want the hammer heads snapping off.
@@oxtoolco If anything changes let me know. Also if you have any drill bits 1/2" to 3" diameter that need to be sharpened let me know. I have an automatic drill bit sharpener that can handle 2, 3 and 4 flute bits.
Need to measure diameters to note the swelling when wet then after they dry out. I am wondering if I should use the lock tight to fill some cracks in my butcher block top shop bench? Any thoughts?
Superglue is commonly used for similar repair. Hobby shop has three different thickness grades. Better yet is epoxy thinned with lacquer thinner- I tested once on some cherry off cuts- 2” end grain and the thinned epoxy went all the way through. Less thinner, less depth. Food grade, sandable, easy. Online or local acquisition. 😊
Hey Bruce. I don't think the loctite would be suitable for filling cracks. It is more like wicking super glue. You could mix some sawdust and superglue and fill your crack with that. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
If it was someone who didn't have any idea what it was and just wanted it out of their way I'd have still given $100 so as not to feel I was taking advantage (too much). If it was someone virtually giving away a press that belongs to an ex to screw with them (or something like that) I'm not sure I want to get involved. While there is limited demand for etching presses, new ones cost a LOT, that one being direct drive (and old) it is hard to find anything really comparable, but a new geared press of similar size might be $6000, or a significantly smaller direct drive maybe $800. If one was only doing etchings the roller dropping is not a big deal, one would often keep one end of the blanket stack under the roller, a copper or zinc plate and paper are not so thick that it would be a any real problem to climb over them. Now if one was doing monotype with a thicker acrylic plate, or block printing the drop would be a problem, so since you have the ability to eliminate it might as well.
That Monarch 10EE is pretty damn sweet! However, the seller has some pretty EXQUISITE Tastes.. Only the astute among your viewers will take particular notice of the how the rebuilder 'M'odified the Monarch Logo and embellished it with his preference of manufacturer.. It's kind of a cult thing, but if Abom and his Brother watch this video, they'll pick up on it pretty quick. I'll leave this comment for a week, we'll check back in on the wicking of the handle ends and stiffening compounds and check the results of this comment as well..
I still haven't received my $8.00 bottle of Loctite. It's being shipped via IndiaPost with arrival April 25 - May 16. Maybe Bezos saw my comment. I'm Prime, too.
Boiled linseed oil already has the dryer in it. Dryer is simply a cobalt salt that promotes the polymerization of the linseed oil, look up "Japan dryer".
That seller in Camas is pretty frustrating. He's single handedly made it impossible for makers to get a deal on a lathe or milling machine in Oregon and Washington. He'll buy it for way more than it's worth from community college auctions (where he gets all of his machines), then tries to flip them for double or more. He's like the Zillow of machine tools. OR/WA don't buy from him.
Yeah, that's Lewis Machinery. Might want to do a search on his name and number before buying. In any case that 10EE is a 'modular' machine, named for the module that can be removed. It's a 3 tube machine The 'works in a drawer' machine (named so as all the drive electronics were on a drawer that pulls out from under the tailstock end) has 12 or so tubes.
Hey Matt. There is always somebody like that lurking around. Good thing they have a big warehouse because they aren't moving too many machines. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Don’t leave us hanging like the last etching press 😂
Yeah, I remember the cycloidal drive on that thing. It was cool.
I deserved that......Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco damn ANOTHER cheap shot! You can’t catch a break! 😂
@@oxtoolco No, that was TOTALLY EARNED!!! Love your channel, constantly on the lookout for new videos. Now, about that Etching Press.... Need Help?
Really glad you are back, Mr. Ox.
Hey Edgar. Thanks for the nice comment. Keep the comments coming!
Cheers,
Tom
It is worth carrying around a little bit of 0000 steel wool in your pocket when looking around at flea markets and swoop meets. A light rub can allow you to see through the rust and find the brand of tools.
Meatloaf makes it easy to do Monday. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Hey Harold. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
My 2 cents regarding soaking hammer handles -
All of my handles get hickory wedges instead of steel, then the handles are charred with a torch, then while still hot, they get soaked in warm boiled linseed oil. I just put them handle-up in a bench vise and wipe the oil on with a rag. The wood really takes up the oil when it's hot.
I hang all of my hammers up at waist/leg height (blacksmith shop) for easy access, so it's pretty convenient for me to go around and put a few drops of linseed oil on the hammer eyes once or twice a year.
I also wipe all of my hammer and axe heads down with linseed oil, too. It helps keep them from rusting.
With regard to the shortage of drill. So to speak, when I was an Apprentice back in the 1960s I wanted to drill a 6" deep hole down the length of a stainless steel bar 0.2 inch diameter hole.
One of the old guys, now long gone, said I could extend a drill by soldering an extension to it, just end to end joint and tinmans solder. We tried it and it worked perfectly We even ground relief
on the shank on a bench grinder to clear swarf. The drilling was done on an old gear drive spindle drill. Great days!
Hey Richard, I have done that myself several times. I only had one 51/64 reduced shank around that I didn't want to modify for this particular job. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
That monarch lathe looks like it was fully rebuilt. That would explain how clean everything is. As long as it was done well, that price tag doesn't sound bad. The only problem with it compared to a modem lathe would be if the vacuum tubs go bad, it will be difficult to find replacements.
Hi Tom! Great meatloaf! - The hammer handle test sort of reminds me of project farm - the inventiveness to create the comparison tests!
Meatloaf! Happy Monday Tom!
Hey Nin. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
An accomplished printmaker friend of mine (the now late Janice McBride) was very impressed with the phenolic platen on her etching press over the steel platen. The steel platen (slightly warped) became the top of my workbench.
Hey Void. There are some advantages with phenolic bed plates. Depending on testing with the new little press the steel plate may get replaced. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Great score on the tools Tom. The roller table is the bargain of the century. Hope your wife can make use of it in her studio. Cheers Nobby
Hopefully we get the full restore unlike the last press you started, 😆 sorry, couldn't miss the friendly dig. BTW I was looking for a video that I remembered watching about 5 years ago but the video list now only goes back 3 years for some reason.
Good test for the hammer handles.
After slapping me with the linseed oil and turpentine comment I had to do a test. Thanks for stopping by buddy.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice scores. I picked up a Bridgeport a few weeks ago for $750 after watching the local classifieds for years, so they are out there if you're patient (and mine isn't even clapped out).
Hey Russ. Nice score! Yes you have to be patient and ready to pounce. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco Could I ask for your email address? Thanks Havelka
Tom, when I was young, a long time ago, I cut and bucked firewood to make some cash. If the axe or maul head started getting loose I would just drop it head down into a bucket of water overnight. Came out good n' tight, I wasn't too worried about a little corrosion, haha! Also, with all those wonderful tools you have I can't believe you don't have a Honda axle stretcher?
Hey Alan. Of course I have one. I also have a tape measure calibrator. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
You might consider putting two sprockets on top with a chain connecting both sides so that turning one side turns both screws equally. On the adjustment side, you could either put a handle on the top of the sprocket as you described, or you could put a sprocket on the shaft just below the existing hand wheels. It seems like being able to adjust both screws from one side would be much more convenient than having to reach across to adjust the other side.
But you still need to turn them individually to level the roller, so I don't think that would work so well
@pauldzim Thanks. I'm not familiar with the process. I'm really not even sure what it's used for. I was only trying to come up with a way to maintain equal adjustment.
Hey Bucking, That would help with the timing issues presses have. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Have seen tube rollers setup like that, but controlling the lash is the hard part. It needs an adjustable tensioner of some sort.
I think I’d figure out how to put a rotary counter on each screw. Bottom out with no load on press, torque to same reading, zero both counters and hope they hold some semblance of tolerance. This would square you to the deck and give you a zero start.
Today is the day we celebrate the machinist.
I hope you consider replacing the spoke drive with a nice hand wheel like the one you made years ago.Very cool project.
Hey Gary, I think that would be too much work for a $5 etching press. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I suppose you could install the dowels in a length of black pipe ( slip fit) and test the force to press them out after a soak. Linseed oil, and loctite both have some gap filling capability.
Thanks for the video
I'm excited about watching your enlivening of that printing press. I remember the series where you made an etching press for your wife from scratch. It was truly a work of art, your wife is a lucky lady. I hope she will share some of her work some day.
Hey Virginia. As a celebration of finishing the monster press I am trying to get her to do a limited run of prints off it that viewers could purchase. You will probably have to wait a little longer to see one....Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice score Tom. 👍 I might get a chance to run a 10ee they have one at our innovation center at work.
Hey Bill, Once you have tried one you will be hooked. If you have a spare $30k I know where a nice one is.....Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Man Tom is becoming quite the woodworker did you see him effortlessly cutting those dowels and hickory no less lol love it Tom can't wait to see the results and oh isn't Anti-Freeze as expensive as Loctite?🙂
Hey Randy. Pretty close. $18 for a gallon of concentrate vs $18 for 50ml. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
very cool stuff, thanks for the video
Hey Richard. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks for sharing.
I don't know about red Loctite, but a drop of blue Loctite on certain injection molded plastics will, over time, find every stress line in the part and continue flowing through them until the part crumbles into tiny chunks. My brother-in-law was the QA engineer for a major instrument maker (tachometers and similar gauges) and he had examples of their gauge cluster back cases where there were blue spider web like structures throughout the parts. The cases were black so the contrast made the flow pattern of the Loctite stand out. Basically the Loctite never stopped flowing through the material. PCBs due something similar in masonry structures. In the Northeast this phenomena has resulted in many old school buildings having PCB contamination in the exterior brick around window frames where a s PCB additive was used in window caulk as an extender when working in cold weather. Sometimes tearing back the brick a foot or sow of brick will solve the problem, sometimes the contamination is so extensive, typically in concrete framed buildings, that demolition and building new is the most economical solution. Chemistry can be weird.
Hey William. Interesting! We did a medical plastic job one time where we had to remove all solvents from the building prior to the plastic arriving. Of course the customer paid for us to shuffle all the bottles and cans out of the shop and put them back when we were done. Crazing is a real deal. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco Years ago on a Navy project we needed to bond surface acoustic wave touch screens to Sony CRT displays using a pourable RTV optical compound.. The company doing the work for us tried out a number of different materials for use in damming the bottom and sides of the air gap between the touch screen and the CRT screen. They tried different types of tape, putties, etc. Chemicals in the various sample dams (e.g. adhesives on the tape) reacted with the RTV compound in different and odd ways. They tested maybe 100 different ideas and ended up with a double door storage cabinet full of beakers from the different tests. In some cases the RTV never cured; in others it cured to the point of becoming brittle, no longer transparent, etc. They finally found a solution that worked but we all walked away thinking "Chemistry is weird."
It’s good to be back to regular meatloaf! Capillary action through xylem “tubes” in wood is a very effective transport system. It will be interesting to see which migrates through the section most effectively. Im going to say the 2 oils should move differently than the antifreeze….
I’m assuming loctite is an oil because of the don’t use on plastic instruction.
Hey James, I never knew what the name of the tube structures was! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, Thanks for the Craigslist inspirations. Nothing like finding deals and meeting cool people.
Hey Joel, Some of my best stories are from CL. You definitely meet some interesting characters. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Lots of finding,Tom to keep busy.Thank you.
Hey Angel. This stuff just falls into my lap without me trying. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Keep the rollers even with gage blocks right and left . Make extenchion long shank drills add a proper diameter toolsteel rod and tig weld done did .
Nice video Tom! The only thing I might added on to the wicking test… would have been to weigh the dowels prior to the immersion…. Maybe weigh the cups of liquid too. I’m interested to see the results. Is that boiled linseed oil?
All the best… Chuck
Hey Chuck. Now you tell me! Yes I probably missed a trick on that one. Good call. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
For hammer heads I use Minwax wood hardener. It’s like Tite Chairs but you get about 14x more for the money. Pour on or use a syringe until it stops soaking in. Basically it’s really thin superglue.
Hey Mossy. Had not heard of that one. Have to check it out for the next round of testing. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Yes - I wonder if that supercheap dollar/pound bottle superglue will do the trick, it is really thin and unless you use it within a few days the whole bottle turns into thick syrup!
@@Dudleymiddleton Worth a test at least once.
That's way cool, you bought an old tool off craigslist and your wife was excited about it? Dayum...wiz...she's a keeper for sure...I'm not sure I've run into that "problem".🤔
21:25 lined up like sambuca shots! I wouldn't drink 'em though! :)
Have you tried Evapo-rust for rust removal. Suggest you may want to try it to remove the rust from your flea market find tools. Saves a lot of hand work.
Hey Gordon, I'll leave that for somebody else. Those tools are going to the Bar Z bash in June for the flea market table. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Project Farm vibes there 😂
Hey Steven. I could do far worse. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
👍 enjoyed as always. Thanks Tom!
Hey James. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Another amazing Monday!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Hey Paul. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks for the video, Doctor Ox
Hey Ed. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice etching press, I reckon a smart fella like yourself could build a pretty impressive etching press if he really put his mind to it ;)
Nice video, along with the comment below about how much the wood swelled up how about sawing it in half along the diameter to view the wicking.
Scott
Hey Scott. That is one of my soak plans. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I eagerly look forward to the results of the hickory soak test. My only experience is that my dad used to soak mauls in water overnight to swell the handle and then I learned somewhere to use antifreeze and so far that's worked well. Very interested to see how the linseed oil works.
I had a 4 in PG&E adjustable wrench that opened to 11/16 I sure miss it.
Hey Martin. My favorite adjustable wrenches are Diamond super wides. They open larger than others of the same size. Very useful feature. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
If you put that dowels at the slight angle, it will wick better, cos cross cut wil be exposed.
Also, you can put some glass or jar over to prevent turpentine from evaporating.
Usualy, this mixture is poured into a some sort of plastic bag, then wraped around the handle or whatever is the part, so there is no much air in a bag. This prevents linseed oil from hardening prematurly. Of course.. not every plastic bag can whitstand turpentine (bags from LED strips, or other electronics, that are metalized inside work whell).
I've always used modeling, super thin superglue to harden wood. Sometimes i use a pump to press the glue inside the wood as well. It becomes very hard and cutting it with a saw becomes a chore as it gums up the blade. Sidenote, if you want a walking stick that looks cool but it's also super strong, for hiking, you take a straight shoot of grape vine, cut it neatly at both ends and then suck epoxy through it. Grape vines are so aerated inside that if you cut a slice you can see through it.
Hey Aserta, Wood stabilization is a pretty big deal. I have seen some really crumbly woods become as strong as metal with the right impregnating material. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Great episode, Tom!
I got very interested in the new press of yours. And it would be a great episode if you made a nice looking wheel over the handle to the new press to hold those handles straight? Tig or mig it? As you did to some other thing in your old shop, cant remeber what it was but it was good looking.
A cool experiment is worth its weight in gold 🤓
Hey Rex. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@18:58 I was at a vendor years ago and they had a guy trying to suck oven-chain grease (don't ask) into a syringe. Much bigger one. We're standing there and I say: "Mind if I show you a trick to do that"? Pulled out the plunger and packed the thing with grease, then put it back in. "Try it that way". They all looked at me like "WTF?" 😆
Hey Phil. Try doing that will filming and talking....Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Even the first time you checked those dowels, the 290 had a blush tint ever so slightly. Capillary action is amazing. Fluid dynamics in general teen tend to be casually mind blowing.
Hey Phillip, At first I thought it was some material that came off my fingers. Then I looked a little closer and indeed some had already wicked up. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I’m interested in the antifreeze solution. Readily available, less expensive per volume, and some dude said it works!
My really old pick/trencher cow barn find may find a new life without replacing the handle.
Hey Bloomer. Hopefully we will be able to draw a conclusion from the little test. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Please show the one you made for your wife previously. I would also love to see some of her prints. My wife also is into printing.
Hey Creasy. I thought I showed the small etching press I build for her at some point? Have to take a look for that one. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Did we ever see the press you made for your wife after it was finished? I don't recall seeing it. Anyway, thanks for another interesting video!
Hey Geoff. I build a small press for her and am still working on the big monster press which is turning into a career project by now. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
That must be an electric car and it’s taking all this time to charge the battery.
The results of the handle test will be interesting.. Hummmm...do I have room for another Bridgeport..good price
ATB...
It would be interesting to measure the diameter of the control dowel and compare that to the diameters of the test specimens to see how much they have swelled due to each of the liquids. Used for hammer/sledge handles, it's all about how much they swell, and then stay "swelled" after being removed from the various liquids.
Hey Guy, That will certainly be one of the pieces of data we collect. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Scrap cast iron is around $200 a ton, so if that press is 200 pounds, it is worth a nice twenty dollar bill. You could make a 4x profit selling it! 🙂
How about putting a couple of sprockets and a bicycle chain between the jackscrews on that press? You could probably get the sides aligned to a few thousandths and they would hopefully stay that way.
I was taught 60 years ago to pour linseed oil in a hold in the handle of my axe each day for a week for new handle
Hey John. Sounds like great advice. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Need that third hand to hold your little round blocks of wood 😄
Need more hands than that! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
There's some guy on RUclips who made a massive etching press from scratch - even the gears! It was super impressive.
Not sure what happened to it...rumor has it he traded it for a Space Shuttle tile...or this thing that measures Sharpie ink thickness.
😁
I deserved that......Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco I hope you know I was just razzing ya. 🤗😎
What ever happened with it?
Minwax makes a 'wood hardener'. Seems like a super glue. Really wicks and gets hard. Metal small cap can not too expensive.
Hey Gary. That might be for round two of the dowel tests. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Not certain the volume of the fluids is important to the wood handle test. The cost for "enough" juice is what matters, I think. The cost of Loctite is pretty high compared to a dribble of anti-freeze.
Are you going to check dimensional change in the hickory too?
Hey Nick. We will gather as much information as we can during the examination. What it all means is the bigger unknown. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
In thinking about that press, it seems like you could use it for letterpress or intaglio printing. The vertical travel of the roller may give you a hint. As I recall, letterpress slugs were just under an inch tall. (.918 maybe?) But you would never have this for large production work so who would be the target user? Maybe some small shop making posters for local events in rural areas? I bet there’s a good story there someplace if you could somehow dig it out. As I’m thinking of production printing I’m lamenting that fact that the days of the pressman’s hat are fast disappearing. I wish I could make one just because they are cool. I could put it on when using my laser printer….
It’s an intaglio press. Tom’s wife does intaglio printing.
It’s not ideal for letterpress, it’s too easy to crush the type, and there’s no way to attach a tympan sheet to the drum.
Hey Glenn. Most presses like this have multiple uses from intaglio to monotype, and wood block. It is really a general purpose squishing press for the artist/printmaker. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, I have one of those old inside/outside calipers ~15" long, no manufacturer name, however the name C W O'neal is scribed/engraved on it, in very fancy old world script. I'm thinking early-mid 1800's.
Hey Glen. You mean the ones that look like they have feet? I'll have to give that one a soak and see if there is a name on it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco yes, that one. I assumed by the fancy script, it might have been the original owner. It's a great tool to have.
Where do I start? The press- those are not bozo holes, “locating pins and receptacles “ is more better…brass plugs set into holes as bearings. the sides of the table can get parallel and hdme inserts in the verticals align the horizontal movement. Clean threads of handwheels, brass “ threaded bushings” top and bottom of verticals for silky smooth adjustments. Lathe type speed handles attached to both to clock. Wife will continue to be amazed by your resourceful attributes for an undetermined length of time 😅. Fantastic project! Now what I would do lacking your tooling and skills: wire brush table, white lithium grease on drive components. 😮. When you get finished the wife will have a two thousand dollar linograph press that was made long ago with available metals and tooling. You are going to be proving that lipstick on a pig works, and improving older objects is a rewarding experience for those of us who are warped enough to keep them alive. Thoroughly enjoy your posts. This one reminds me of a hearty fellow with a southern accent who squeezes cane 😂
Hey Stew. Thanks for the encouragement! She is already on me for this thing. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom, thanks for the video. Sorry if somebody has asked this before but did you ever end up finishing the intaglio etching press that you were making?
Any benefit in checking diameter of that dowel to see if absorbtion caused a swelling or shrinkage?
I thinking of Tom producing Benjamin's on his 5 buck press.
Hey Robert. Now that is a good idea. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom
I know you said you were going to use 50:50 on linseed oil mix, I swear that I saw you use 6cc and added 3cc, which obviously is NOT 50:50.
John
On the drill extension, just cut the shank at a 45 degree angle and braze a suitable length of rod on to it. Easy and later if it is too long, just cut it off.
I'm still trying to get in touch with you on another matter that you have not responded to.
The Plomb collector.... How far are you from Plymouth/Jackson? Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco Close enough, I'm retired with a somewhat flexible schedule. To answer your question directly, a smidgen west of Folsom Lake. I will email you again.
I wonder if the enteral structure of the dowel rod is such that the wicking occurs in either direction. But it might flow easier in one direction as in flowing up the tree?
Hey Sam. Interesting question. I don't know if the transport mechanism is directional. Have to look that one up. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
How does sap move in a tree? Sap is a solution of water and minerals. Trees absorb water through their roots by osmosis, and this is moved from the roots to the leaves through a network of tubes called xylem tubes.
@@petemclinc thanks Peter is been more than 50 years since high school. I have forgotten much. I was wondering if there was something in the pipeline that would slow down the water on the way down or maybe speed up on the way up. I don't recall where the absorption of the energy occurred. Now I've got the bug. I'm going to do some looking on the web.
Dang that Bridgeport is still there...almost walking distance from my house. Please somebody buy it before I do something crazy
I'd go next size up on the adjustment screws. That casting looks like it can take at least that much, if not more. By the way the whole thing looks, i'd have to say it might be some kind of do it yourself press from patterns.
There are no maker marks on the press at all. A few casting numbers that might indicate a kit of some sort. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
So did you ever finish the other press you were building?
Not yet. Saving up for rolls and bed plates. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I have to wonder if any of those products with embrittle the wood? Hard is good until it makes something brittle. We don't want the hammer heads snapping off.
Not sure how to test for that attribute. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
how about some sort of drop (rebound) test for hardness? Dave
Hey Dave. I have some durometer testers that may give us a relative hardness of each sample. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, What size drill are you looking for? There's a good chance I would have one that would work.
Hey Tim. I think I'm covered now. I appreciate the offer!
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco If anything changes let me know. Also if you have any drill bits 1/2" to 3" diameter that need to be sharpened let me know. I have an automatic drill bit sharpener that can handle 2, 3 and 4 flute bits.
New flat surface! I know exactly how that works...
Never enough flat workbench in a shop. I don't care how big it is. You are so right. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Great meatloaf thank you Tom. Please no teasing of an etching press lol
Hey Leroy. Its like bait for gearheads. You guys keep coming back for more. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Need to measure diameters to note the swelling when wet then after they dry out. I am wondering if I should use the lock tight to fill some cracks in my butcher block top shop bench? Any thoughts?
Superglue is commonly used for similar repair. Hobby shop has three different thickness grades. Better yet is epoxy thinned with lacquer thinner- I tested once on some cherry off cuts- 2” end grain and the thinned epoxy went all the way through. Less thinner, less depth. Food grade, sandable, easy. Online or local acquisition. 😊
@@wrstew1272 Thankyou for the ideas
Hey Bruce. I don't think the loctite would be suitable for filling cracks. It is more like wicking super glue. You could mix some sawdust and superglue and fill your crack with that. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
You could always offer them $5k on the Monarch. 😊
The Sebastapool toolbox should be wearing a tie.
Its a cute little toolbox you have to admit. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
To roll a cone, your screws need to be set differently.
we're never gonna see that other etching press you started a while ago ever again are we?
actually I think it appeared briefly in at least one video when he was moving shop
Keep talking like that and I just might work on it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Who would of thought that a tool from PG&E showed signs of wear ?
Hey Bill. Ouch! You nailed that one. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
That press needs an all gear drive similar to a Ducati at a minimum. Just kidding, yet? Or Toothed rubber belt? I enjoy the content thank you a bunch.
Hey John. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
To bad you are not closer to Keith Rucker in order to put your table on his restored hugh table shaper.
I would have paid $5.00 just to have the story for myself.
I bet Tom will rent it to you for $20.
Hey David, I had to go and see if for nothing else a good story. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
If it was someone who didn't have any idea what it was and just wanted it out of their way I'd have still given $100 so as not to feel I was taking advantage (too much). If it was someone virtually giving away a press that belongs to an ex to screw with them (or something like that) I'm not sure I want to get involved.
While there is limited demand for etching presses, new ones cost a LOT, that one being direct drive (and old) it is hard to find anything really comparable, but a new geared press of similar size might be $6000, or a significantly smaller direct drive maybe $800.
If one was only doing etchings the roller dropping is not a big deal, one would often keep one end of the blanket stack under the roller, a copper or zinc plate and paper are not so thick that it would be a any real problem to climb over them. Now if one was doing monotype with a thicker acrylic plate, or block printing the drop would be a problem, so since you have the ability to eliminate it might as well.
I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that a PG&E wrench has little to no signs of use. I would guess *all* PG&E wrenches are in mint condition.
Touché! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Too funny ..
Maybe measure before/after circumference with your diameter tape?
Hey Drew. Missed that on this round of tests. Can probably use the control rod for some comparisons. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I'd make that shaft out of 4130 tube if it was me
That Monarch 10EE is pretty damn sweet! However, the seller has some pretty EXQUISITE Tastes.. Only the astute among your viewers will take particular notice of the how the rebuilder 'M'odified the Monarch Logo and embellished it with his preference of manufacturer.. It's kind of a cult thing, but if Abom and his Brother watch this video, they'll pick up on it pretty quick. I'll leave this comment for a week, we'll check back in on the wicking of the handle ends and stiffening compounds and check the results of this comment as well..
Wait you do machining? 😜
Alright wise guy. I deserved that. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco 🤣🤣🤣
1200$ for a Bridgeport at that condition, at least 3000€ for worse condition around here.
$1200 buck is basically scrap value. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I still haven't received my $8.00 bottle of Loctite. It's being shipped via IndiaPost with arrival April 25 - May 16. Maybe Bezos saw my comment. I'm Prime, too.
Same here.
Hey Roger. Let me know if you get it. Several other folks ordered and got theirs alright. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Etching press, huh? Reminds me of something, hmm.
Yeah. Tom should try building one from scratch. Could be an interesting loooooooooooooooooong term project.
@@johnalexander2349 looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong term project
Ouch. I deserved that. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Lol I live in a machine desert that mill would be 4-5 grand here
They are all over the place here. You need to move....Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
as far as linseed oil goes you might be better off with japan dryer
Boiled linseed oil already has the dryer in it. Dryer is simply a cobalt salt that promotes the polymerization of the linseed oil, look up "Japan dryer".
Hey Peter. Another product to add to the next test round. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
That seller in Camas is pretty frustrating. He's single handedly made it impossible for makers to get a deal on a lathe or milling machine in Oregon and Washington. He'll buy it for way more than it's worth from community college auctions (where he gets all of his machines), then tries to flip them for double or more. He's like the Zillow of machine tools. OR/WA don't buy from him.
Yeah, that's Lewis Machinery. Might want to do a search on his name and number before buying.
In any case that 10EE is a 'modular' machine, named for the module that can be removed. It's a 3 tube machine
The 'works in a drawer' machine (named so as all the drive electronics were on a drawer that pulls out from under the tailstock end) has 12 or so tubes.
Lol I ain't never seen someone with a two star facebook marketplace seller score. Dan Lewis.
@@russkepler Hey Russ. Thanks for the clarification. I knew this was the latest and greatest of the tube drives. Cheers. Tom
Hey Matt. There is always somebody like that lurking around. Good thing they have a big warehouse because they aren't moving too many machines. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Whatever happened to the giant press you were building for your wife a few years ago?
Mmm press sieve.
Why not but a bicycle chain gear on both shafts under the handwheels and link it with a bicycle chain
Hey Matt. That is a good upgrade for a etching press. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom