Came to make the same comment. I would even put clear doors on the side. Maybe a clear panel with thumbscrews... I'll bet you'll be surprised how often you want access through the side. Amazing build and great video! Keep up the good work!
Came here to write the same thing, but more so I would just make all sides from perspex, it’s useful to see all sides, see when there too much swarf behind the base plate or check the part etc
I agree and definitely go with polycarbonate over acrylic. Acrylic will break the second a chuck of aluminum hits it while a 3mm polycarbonate sheet will withstand anything your spindle throws at it.
I agree, two sides accessible is a great idea. On the topic of side panels, sound deadening mats like what is used in cars would probably help greatly reduce the operational sound level a fair bit. It would just stick to the metal on the outside, simple and efficient.
Duet Web Controller does have an e-stop button in the interface (easily visible on every subpage), but obviously wifi and javascript is not something I'd trust my life with ;)
@@dan5her I mean, it's amazing how dumb robots are. I'm pretty careful and an e-stop is mandatory. I remember working on a duet3d-based 3d printer once, changed one line of gcode for the bed leveling routine, and my bed slammed into my leveling probe at full speed before I could even react. That's $10 and a couple days gone. Scale that up to a CNC machine and that could easily be a hospital visit. Scale that up to killbots and it could be the end of the world. Good movie! But not what you want on your bench ;)
On something with this much power you absolutely want an e-stop cutting power to everything at once. If something is going wrong, it's gonna be disastrous. The software e-stop is nice but if you have to fumble on your phone/computer to find it, that's the difference between avoiding a disaster and it becoming really expensive to fix. Wire up a big red button on the front of the machine under the window. Something you can keep your hand near to and hit without looking for it.
If I remember my UK terminology correctly, perspex is acrylic. I highly recommend using Lexan/polycarbonate for your window instead. Acrylic won't provide much in the way of protection whereas polycarbonate has a decent amount of impact resistance should a tool bit or work piece attempt to escape from the machine.
It looks like you homed the axes in Y, then Z, then X order. I was always taught that you should home the Z axis first, that way if the tool head (or milling bit) is low enough that it would scrape the bed or hit into the vise/ workpiece, it should get the tool head/ milling up and out of the way before the X axis and Y axis start moving to home themselves.
For what it's worth, Duet primarily makes their boards for 3D printers, and it's typical for a 3D printer to do X > Y > Z It's always the same toolhead (usually) and there's no workpiece to knock into, also many printers do an auto-tramming routine for Z adjustment so I guess it makes sense in that regard
@@TheNickelGhost Exactly and the printer ends every print with the z axis up high, so at least you have some time to stop it when the xy homing sequence is running
@@TimStation Have you tried hitting up local suppliers to dig through their cutoff piles? My friend and I got some surprisingly large sheets of acrylic for surprisingly cheap that way just because it was some not quite fully sized sheet left over from some other industrial customers order.
8:13 I'd want double end-stops, with the first as a trigger for the software, and if it somehow goes past that then it'll hit the second end-stop which will physically disconnect the power from the motor.
I will hopefully save you a serious issue now, so you don't have to fix it later after damage. The little red (what looks like) limit switch on the y axis NEEDS to be shielded from any possible metal chips, as they can damage or jam it, keeping it from functioning correctly. I don't expect that you will have a tool path that runs out to that limit switch during a cutting operation, but it's much easier to solve the problem before it becomes one.
You have amazing skills! You are a true engineer. I used to work on the service and repair of the electronics on CNC machines back in the 1980s, but it is amazing to watch you building a complete machine from scratch. Thanks for sharing.
Looks great and I'm definitely not jealous! Just a small thing, I think adding some thin weather stripping along the side panels would cut down on some vibrational noise
The machine is looking good, I would recommend an accordion style rubber protector to attatch to the build plate and base of the machine to stop chips getting into the lead screws and guide rails!
@@TimStation if it does become an issue, some automotive sound dampening material like Dynomat should work. I'd also think about using the same transparent material for both remaining sides so you have better visibility.
@@TimStation I would have used acrylic, mainly because of visibility. Although I don't think rattling is going to be an issue, in my experience this can occur but mostly when machining with a high load and low rpm. If it rattles, a few more bolts should probably fix that. And if resonance should be a problem (wich I doubt), diagonal cross braces will probably eliminate that. Great build and brilliant looking so far!
You need to chamfer all 12 edges of that thick aluminum plate, that's a killer. You could do it with the file or if you want it to look even nicer I would use a laminate router and a chamfer bearing bit with some WD40
Never worry about buying a tool for just one job. Humans don't work that way. If you buy a tool, you'll find uses for it. You'll even design parts and processes with it in mind. Never wasted money...
Buy a cheap tool for a single job, and if you ever need to replace it, you know you're using it enough to justify getting the better/more expensive version
@@Blast_HardCheese Yeah, that's what I was taught, too. And it's good advice... if you are on a budget. On the other hand, if you have the money to pay for nice tools, buy nice tools, and you'll never have to worry about replacing them (as much). Because we all know there's nothing worse than having the right tool for the project, but it breaks because we cheaped out!
I highly recommend finding a friend at a sheet metal shop to roll some beads across the aluminum panels, an X corner to corner, stopping short enough to clear the frame. It'll be insanely loud with flat panels when you hit just the right frequency.
Hey might I suggest a side window as well? Having a side window would help a lot with making sure projects are lined up and being able to see whats going on. Btw love the series its fantastic. Makes me want to build my own cnc mill.
This biggest lesson I learned with my mini amazon mill was big red e-stop button!! Mine could really only break bits but yours here could easily hurt you... Other than that specific detail, looks like it'll be fun!
Thats coming along really nice Tim, great work. I wish I had made mine with moving base and fixed gantry. More rigid than stacking all three axis. I would hinge the side panel as well as the front. Looking forward to seeing the first cut. As others mention an emergency stop, or two. Lathes and drills often have a shut off bar or foot kick plate . Some motor drives, eg the spindle one might have a brake function with external dump resistors to slow the motor rapidly in an emergency.
Hey Tim, it is all coming together now. What would really nice is if you could kindly put together a BOM for all the mechanical parts that were used to build the frame. Thank you and can't wait to see it cutting and milling metal.
2 месяца назад+2
I really did enjoy Tom Stanton, thank you very much!
Oh man, I'm quite envious. You started long after me, and you'll be done long before me. Grabted, I moved my spindle before, but it's not integrated into the control. But my steppers never moved, and I'm currently wiring all the end stops so they only use a singular pin on the BOB.
Looks really good so far! I'm also using a Duet board for my Workbee clone and I really like it. Could really use a pendant for it however since using the screen for moving the spindle around can get quite tiresome. Also a small tip for your concern about motor power during testing; Reduce the motor power in the config files. That way any errors might be a bit more forgiving.
Dude this is looking so cool! As someone who's working on a project out of their comfort zone, congratulations and keep it up! Good luck to the both of us :P
I used to stick a felt tipped pen in the tool chuck and run the feeds fast to draw the shape I was trying to profile. Seems archaic now, but if you stuck, it's a way forward without breaking anything.
VERY cool machine! Just a small advice: whenever alignment is important, try to avoid using countersunk head screw (especially if the holes are drilled by hand). Any slight concentricity error in the drilling will result in the bolts trying to pull the plate / carriage block in wierd directions, making the carriages bind.
another good addon, would be a pantograph attached to a joystick or other control so you could trace, enlarge and/or shrink a pattern to a finished good. have fun with it.
awesome stuff.... I won't be using a control board without drivers. but great choice and who better to suggest a 3d printing controller! epic! that man is another wonder like your self. ciao x
Tom. Cars have sound deadening pads on the inside help stop them being really noisy, given you've put flat panels on the outside there's a good chance it's going to be quite loud when fully working. Just something to think about for later. 😀👍
This is looking great! I can't wait to see it start making chips! Also, I'd recommend a clear door for both the front AND side just for that added convince if it's ever needed. Also, have you considered any type of cooling systems?
Great build so far. Seeing those big, thin, aluminium panels....: that will get noisy. Think about sticking some sound proofing on the outside, same stuff that is used for car interior, and computers.
Very nice build, I do have a worry though about vibrations. How you mounted the Z-axis to the bridge with thin setoffs, would it not be way better to have the rail slides be mounted on two solid blocks of material taking up all the space in between the standoffs? Great build though, nice work.
I'm really surprised there's no binding pairs of linear rails being mounted onto the Aluminium Extrusion. I would have thought getting the tops of the Linear Rails to line up would be very difficult as you'd have to shim the bottom. Then you'd have to worry about keeping those in place, as normally the datasheet suggests a shoulder to position the rails. Really impressed ! Wondering, What preload did you specify for those Linear Guide Block Bearings?
I would love to see you revisit the hand crank generator video to take it to is logical conclusion of whats the most amount of power you can generate by hand by building the absolute best hand generator you can
I loved your role in Jedi: Fallen order in all seriousness though, this has been quite the build so far. Is there any adjustability in the bed to level it exactly? Or can you do a skimming pass with the router head to "perfectly"" level it?
While I agree that chips all over the floor can be messy and annoying, enclosing them so snuggly inside a box like that could lead to other problems. Such as bouncing off the sides and underneath the aluminium bed into the mechanism. Also, have you though about cleaning the machine after each use? If those aluminium side panels are held on with a load of screws it will mean having to spend ages removing and replacing them every time you need to clean. Some type of locking latch mechanism would be ideal so you can remove them when needed in just a few seconds. Apart from that it's looking pretty cool though 😉👍
In the past I've had duet controlled 3d printers and sometimes the web control would lose its connection to the duet board. Also can happen with the LCD screen that plugs into the older duets. I can't imagine ever trusting a big CNC with the web control
I would be fly cutting the bed plate anyway with the router itself, rather than paying extra for precision flat aluminium. Particularly if you plan to cut tee slots in the bed, or an array of hold down threaded holes, since there is a good chance the plate will stress relieve and move from flat.
i'd put 2 clear sheets, or at least one window to the left, it's very useful to see from perpendicular sides when machining
Came to make the same comment. I would even put clear doors on the side. Maybe a clear panel with thumbscrews... I'll bet you'll be surprised how often you want access through the side. Amazing build and great video! Keep up the good work!
Came here to write the same thing, but more so I would just make all sides from perspex, it’s useful to see all sides, see when there too much swarf behind the base plate or check the part etc
I agree and definitely go with polycarbonate over acrylic. Acrylic will break the second a chuck of aluminum hits it while a 3mm polycarbonate sheet will withstand anything your spindle throws at it.
I agree, two sides accessible is a great idea. On the topic of side panels, sound deadening mats like what is used in cars would probably help greatly reduce the operational sound level a fair bit. It would just stick to the metal on the outside, simple and efficient.
Came here to post this!
You're a couple of months early with this part!
The machine looks great, good work!
It's like the last part came out just yesterday!
I think an emergency stop would be a very good thing to have on a powerful machine, that works on it own.
Duet Web Controller does have an e-stop button in the interface (easily visible on every subpage), but obviously wifi and javascript is not something I'd trust my life with ;)
I use the same firmware for my mill, homing inputs can be configured as an E-stop input.
Imagine how boring the terminator movies would have been if you were in charge of designing the terminators......
@@dan5her I mean, it's amazing how dumb robots are. I'm pretty careful and an e-stop is mandatory. I remember working on a duet3d-based 3d printer once, changed one line of gcode for the bed leveling routine, and my bed slammed into my leveling probe at full speed before I could even react. That's $10 and a couple days gone. Scale that up to a CNC machine and that could easily be a hospital visit. Scale that up to killbots and it could be the end of the world. Good movie! But not what you want on your bench ;)
On something with this much power you absolutely want an e-stop cutting power to everything at once. If something is going wrong, it's gonna be disastrous. The software e-stop is nice but if you have to fumble on your phone/computer to find it, that's the difference between avoiding a disaster and it becoming really expensive to fix. Wire up a big red button on the front of the machine under the window. Something you can keep your hand near to and hit without looking for it.
We need a shot of your reaction the first time you end up milling the aluminium plate.
If I remember my UK terminology correctly, perspex is acrylic. I highly recommend using Lexan/polycarbonate for your window instead. Acrylic won't provide much in the way of protection whereas polycarbonate has a decent amount of impact resistance should a tool bit or work piece attempt to escape from the machine.
I came here just to say the same thing, perspex or acrylic is definitely not safe for this application
Or better, use hardened saftey glass. Plastic in CNC enclosure sucks. Hot chips will melt that plastic making it opaque.
It looks like you homed the axes in Y, then Z, then X order. I was always taught that you should home the Z axis first, that way if the tool head (or milling bit) is low enough that it would scrape the bed or hit into the vise/ workpiece, it should get the tool head/ milling up and out of the way before the X axis and Y axis start moving to home themselves.
That's true! For some reason, the default was to home X & Y first, then Z. I have now changed it so Z homes first. Thanks!
For what it's worth, Duet primarily makes their boards for 3D printers, and it's typical for a 3D printer to do X > Y > Z It's always the same toolhead (usually) and there's no workpiece to knock into, also many printers do an auto-tramming routine for Z adjustment so I guess it makes sense in that regard
@@TheNickelGhost Exactly and the printer ends every print with the z axis up high, so at least you have some time to stop it when the xy homing sequence is running
Looks amazing. Maybe clear on both of the remaining sides just so you can see it more?
The aluminium sheet is far cheaper than perspex, so I think I'll just have the front window and make the left panel removable with magnets. Thanks!
@@TimStation Have you tried hitting up local suppliers to dig through their cutoff piles? My friend and I got some surprisingly large sheets of acrylic for surprisingly cheap that way just because it was some not quite fully sized sheet left over from some other industrial customers order.
@@TimStation you should add hinges to the side panels
@@dpidcoeyeah good point, going physically to acrylic retailers then online, or a hardware store, the prices are dramatically cheaper. 😊
@@TimStationMaybe you can make a small acrylic window on the side in the aluminium plate?
I'm so happy seeing the progress!
8:13 I'd want double end-stops, with the first as a trigger for the software, and if it somehow goes past that then it'll hit the second end-stop which will physically disconnect the power from the motor.
Small side note: you can wire that up, but dont disconnect the motor side. This will destroy the stepper driver. Instead cut power to the mainboard.
@@tygo9500 Yes, in series with the emergency switch.
I will hopefully save you a serious issue now, so you don't have to fix it later after damage. The little red (what looks like) limit switch on the y axis NEEDS to be shielded from any possible metal chips, as they can damage or jam it, keeping it from functioning correctly. I don't expect that you will have a tool path that runs out to that limit switch during a cutting operation, but it's much easier to solve the problem before it becomes one.
You have amazing skills! You are a true engineer. I used to work on the service and repair of the electronics on CNC machines back in the 1980s, but it is amazing to watch you building a complete machine from scratch. Thanks for sharing.
Looks great and I'm definitely not jealous!
Just a small thing, I think adding some thin weather stripping along the side panels would cut down on some vibrational noise
Wow, that came out so nice!
Well done.
I can't wait to see the first chips, and projects with with parts from this machine
Impressive build! I think you should totally do a "super-cut" of all these progress videos, and put it on the main channel when you're done.
The machine is looking good, I would recommend an accordion style rubber protector to attatch to the build plate and base of the machine to stop chips getting into the lead screws and guide rails!
You can literally see the excitement on Tom's face =) good job mate! keep building and uploading
those metal sheets are going to resonate like crazy
How else would you build it? I've seen many CNC mills use sheet metal enclosures with no issues
@@TimStation It'll probably be fine. If it does resonate just throw some sound deadening on it.
You could possibly use some kind of foam seal between the sheets and frame to reduce any possible vibration.
@@TimStation if it does become an issue, some automotive sound dampening material like Dynomat should work.
I'd also think about using the same transparent material for both remaining sides so you have better visibility.
@@TimStation I would have used acrylic, mainly because of visibility. Although I don't think rattling is going to be an issue, in my experience this can occur but mostly when machining with a high load and low rpm. If it rattles, a few more bolts should probably fix that. And if resonance should be a problem (wich I doubt), diagonal cross braces will probably eliminate that.
Great build and brilliant looking so far!
You need to chamfer all 12 edges of that thick aluminum plate, that's a killer. You could do it with the file or if you want it to look even nicer I would use a laminate router and a chamfer bearing bit with some WD40
Maybe he will do that when the machine is done.😂
Never worry about buying a tool for just one job. Humans don't work that way. If you buy a tool, you'll find uses for it. You'll even design parts and processes with it in mind. Never wasted money...
Buy a cheap tool for a single job, and if you ever need to replace it, you know you're using it enough to justify getting the better/more expensive version
@@Blast_HardCheese Yeah, that's what I was taught, too. And it's good advice... if you are on a budget. On the other hand, if you have the money to pay for nice tools, buy nice tools, and you'll never have to worry about replacing them (as much).
Because we all know there's nothing worse than having the right tool for the project, but it breaks because we cheaped out!
i always loughed at your old router, that beast fits much better you! 💪 cheers
Excellent work! I made my entire machine with that tooling plate. It's great stuff.
I highly recommend finding a friend at a sheet metal shop to roll some beads across the aluminum panels, an X corner to corner, stopping short enough to clear the frame. It'll be insanely loud with flat panels when you hit just the right frequency.
Looks really cool to be honest, neat and tidy
Hi Tim, Item also has some 90 degree aluminium brackets to mount the vertical enclosure profiles. They have a lot of accesoiries for item profiles.
an emergency brake?
The electronics need finishing, like the estop, and I still need to earth all the cable shielding etc. Still lots to do!
Please explain the earth and grounding thing in your next video 😭 I’m having massive EMI issues and it’s driving me nuts ! Great video as always
You may wanna put an emergency stop button on the side of your machine ... pretty nice tho!
I'd love to see the circle motion with a pen attached to see it drawing into a paper
amazing job!
Hey might I suggest a side window as well? Having a side window would help a lot with making sure projects are lined up and being able to see whats going on. Btw love the series its fantastic. Makes me want to build my own cnc mill.
This biggest lesson I learned with my mini amazon mill was big red e-stop button!! Mine could really only break bits but yours here could easily hurt you...
Other than that specific detail, looks like it'll be fun!
Looks amazing Tom!
When you started drilling in the +200£ aluminum plate - I felt that.. 😅
U can use some extrusion slot covers so it will be much easy to clean the enclouser.
Looks awesome, jelous. You should consider a table button so you can find the tip of the tool.
EStop would be great
This build is looking awesome! I bet you could also do some pretty spot-on metrology with this machine as well.
Well done Tom that is looking amazing!
Thats coming along really nice Tim, great work. I wish I had made mine with moving base and fixed gantry. More rigid than stacking all three axis. I would hinge the side panel as well as the front. Looking forward to seeing the first cut. As others mention an emergency stop, or two. Lathes and drills often have a shut off bar or foot kick plate . Some motor drives, eg the spindle one might have a brake function with external dump resistors to slow the motor rapidly in an emergency.
Hey Tim, it is all coming together now. What would really nice is if you could kindly put together a BOM for all the mechanical parts that were used to build the frame. Thank you and can't wait to see it cutting and milling metal.
I really did enjoy Tom Stanton, thank you very much!
Tim Stanton on this channel😂
Oh man, I'm quite envious.
You started long after me, and you'll be done long before me. Grabted, I moved my spindle before, but it's not integrated into the control.
But my steppers never moved, and I'm currently wiring all the end stops so they only use a singular pin on the BOB.
Looks great! Excited to see it cutting. I thought you were going to mill the hole for the motor in the side panel 🙂
Sick! Those lights are legit! 10/10 loved the vid.
It’s like buses, you wait for months and then all the videos come at once.
Looks really good so far! I'm also using a Duet board for my Workbee clone and I really like it. Could really use a pendant for it however since using the screen for moving the spindle around can get quite tiresome.
Also a small tip for your concern about motor power during testing; Reduce the motor power in the config files. That way any errors might be a bit more forgiving.
Awesome job! I'd put a bit reg emergency stop button while testing (and not only)
these videos coming out fast as lightning!
Dude this is looking so cool! As someone who's working on a project out of their comfort zone, congratulations and keep it up! Good luck to the both of us :P
looks great but why not use plexiglass for the enclosure? Just a thought. You could still use it for the remaining side?
I used to stick a felt tipped pen in the tool chuck and run the feeds fast to draw the shape I was trying to profile. Seems archaic now, but if you stuck, it's a way forward without breaking anything.
Finally! I have been commenting about this on your main channel for very long.
That enclosure is going to amplify the sounds the machine makes. Try sticking some sound dampening tape on the sides (it's going to be expensive)
This is beautiful Tim.
Some great work, well done.
Maybe some 3D printed inserts for the voids/ridges on the extruded support beams could help control the debris build-up?
VERY cool machine!
Just a small advice: whenever alignment is important, try to avoid using countersunk head screw (especially if the holes are drilled by hand). Any slight concentricity error in the drilling will result in the bolts trying to pull the plate / carriage block in wierd directions, making the carriages bind.
Agreed. Luckily you can flat bottom the angled countersinks with a milling cutter and use pan heads if the alignment is tight.
indeed. it is now overconstrained
another good addon, would be a pantograph attached to a joystick or other control so you could trace, enlarge and/or shrink a pattern to a finished good. have fun with it.
awesome stuff.... I won't be using a control board without drivers. but great choice and who better to suggest a 3d printing controller! epic! that man is another wonder like your self. ciao x
Love this build.
Do you have a BOM or some more information about the used components?
How loud is the air cooled spindle at least without load?
Looking great! I want one...
Nice build, I also prefer the portal like builds. I would put the spindle lower on the Z plate so it could reach deeper in the stock material.
The spindle seems plenty low enough, by the time you stick a bit in it it should be able to hit the tooling plate.
Tom.
Cars have sound deadening pads on the inside help stop them being really noisy, given you've put flat panels on the outside there's a good chance it's going to be quite loud when fully working.
Just something to think about for later.
😀👍
Wouldn't it be better for both current open sides to be see through? great project!
making those holes in the plate countersunk was brave, it leaves no room for adjustment
Looking good, you might need an emergency stop button just in case
This is looking great! I can't wait to see it start making chips!
Also, I'd recommend a clear door for both the front AND side just for that added convince if it's ever needed.
Also, have you considered any type of cooling systems?
No watercooling fluid ? With a metals particle recuperation system ? Very nice project !
So soon? I won't complain!
Great build so far.
Seeing those big, thin, aluminium panels....: that will get noisy. Think about sticking some sound proofing on the outside, same stuff that is used for car interior, and computers.
It would be very cool to have a running tally for the BOM at each part of the build.
You should redesign the 3d printed covers on the bottom to help catch chips and deflect them away from the linear rails
keep up the work! already excited for the first chips :)
Will you release the full BOM and construction costs of this CNC in the future?
Best Fabian
that's a nice lookin' mill
Well done! I really hope there's an estop somewhere!!!
very nice build!!! 👍
you impress me every time
The tin snips were filthy, but we have all done something like that before.
too real. i immediately felt disgusted and then remembered all the times when i was young and made way uglier things
Definitely
drill out a hole and use snips or saw, is what i've seen to be used most the time.
Great progress Tom! Do you have a specific project in mind that you are going to put it to use on first?
Thanks George! I haven't thought that far ahead yet haha, but I'm sure it'll be useful for many future projects.
Very nice build, I do have a worry though about vibrations. How you mounted the Z-axis to the bridge with thin setoffs, would it not be way better to have the rail slides be mounted on two solid blocks of material taking up all the space in between the standoffs? Great build though, nice work.
That aluminum sheeting is going to boom loudly when in operation
Those Alu sheets will drive you matter with their chatter. I think you should consider putting some foam taper between the sheets and the extrusions.
wow thats looks way better than every machine ive ever worked with ,
what did it costs so far ?
Learnt a lot from your channel ❤ thank you
I'm really surprised there's no binding pairs of linear rails being mounted onto the Aluminium Extrusion. I would have thought getting the tops of the Linear Rails to line up would be very difficult as you'd have to shim the bottom. Then you'd have to worry about keeping those in place, as normally the datasheet suggests a shoulder to position the rails. Really impressed !
Wondering, What preload did you specify for those Linear Guide Block Bearings?
awesome build! Would be nice to know how it costs to build this machine? :)
Sorry if I just didn't see it, but an E-stop button would be nice to have. Great work!
Looks amazing!
You seem to be poised for a very lucrative contract.
I hope you're as good at business as you are engineering
Cheers from across the pond
Look how happy he is.
2 update videos in less than a month!? Great videos as always. Will we expect the CAD files for this project?
Very nice work. You're a man after my own heart hahaha
this is awesome, can you give a rough estimate of the total cost so far?
I enjoyed this video
I would love to see you revisit the hand crank generator video to take it to is logical conclusion of whats the most amount of power you can generate by hand by building the absolute best hand generator you can
What about one of those probes that detects the surface of the work piece?
I loved your role in Jedi: Fallen order
in all seriousness though, this has been quite the build so far. Is there any adjustability in the bed to level it exactly? Or can you do a skimming pass with the router head to "perfectly"" level it?
Cool! You didn't consider adding sound dampening on the sides? False bottom for easy collection of chips?
While I agree that chips all over the floor can be messy and annoying, enclosing them so snuggly inside a box like that could lead to other problems. Such as bouncing off the sides and underneath the aluminium bed into the mechanism.
Also, have you though about cleaning the machine after each use? If those aluminium side panels are held on with a load of screws it will mean having to spend ages removing and replacing them every time you need to clean. Some type of locking latch mechanism would be ideal so you can remove them when needed in just a few seconds.
Apart from that it's looking pretty cool though 😉👍
Ahh, I just saw your "... make the left panel removable with magnets." reply further down lol
Going to be a cool machine to have.
Contoling a decently powerful cnc mill via a web interface would make me nervous 😅
In the past I've had duet controlled 3d printers and sometimes the web control would lose its connection to the duet board. Also can happen with the LCD screen that plugs into the older duets.
I can't imagine ever trusting a big CNC with the web control
I would be fly cutting the bed plate anyway with the router itself, rather than paying extra for precision flat aluminium.
Particularly if you plan to cut tee slots in the bed, or an array of hold down threaded holes, since there is a good chance the plate will stress relieve and move from flat.
Looks awesome. Please put a transparent not aluminum panel on the left side!
Really nice build! Curious total material cost? 3d gcode preview/progress available as FluidNC extension.
Very cool