Connect The Ground & Neutral Wires
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- The Only time Electricians connect the Neutral Wire and the Grounding Conductor is at the Service Entrance! Call George now @770.596.1437 @Argoelectrical #ArcFaultCircuitBreakers
Hack , I pray you don’t have any apprentices under you
You see that fraid wire on the ground at the bus bar😮
Good catch but it really isn't going to hurt anything
No way I would leave that wire like that and make a video.😂
Wow, I'm graced again at being fortunate enough to see another "RUclips lectrician".
Another classic example of a little bit of knowledge is not always a good thing, love the ground ding terminology
What’s the melted cable used for?
😆
Welding 😂
It’s rated at 125% so it’s fine
It's not melted, they didn't lube the feeder wires up good enough and outer sheathing got caught at the first connector..or on a coupling at one of their 4 pre-fabbed 90°'s haha
And to point out before someone asks: 'Yes', some inspectors would ding you if any of your conductors were connected to a neutral/ground bar but not all of the strands were under the set screw [ 0:33 ].
Even if they didn't say anything, it's still poor workmanship...
Garbage work coming from a master electrician.
Bonding. All shapes and sizes. But yea sloppy
You can use copper on any electrical installation, it doesn't have to be a commercial job. Smaller conductor size, easier to bend and you don't lose the neutral like you do in Aluminum SEC.
I think he means they are not using aluminum because it is a commercial job… maybe, probably
Copper is definitely not "easier to bend" than aluminum.
@@JustHazardous You have your opinion. I have mine.
@@pico3tinezexactly. Cu is smaller for the same loading. Big Al conductors on a tight site, this looks tight, is a pain. Then there's corrosive environments...not stated.
@@walsakaluk1584 thanks
You didn’t wait for your helper to get back with the plastic bushing for the load side pvc conduit. Also, I’d like to see the chart you used to size up your groun”ding” conductor
Haha. #4 CU for 200A all day long. I guess he thought that needed to be 125% also 😂
advantage of a 4-wire system: if faults develop in the line, you have a safety conductor (the EGC) that functions without parallel paths through random neutrals and grounds. Such a separate EGC will completely clear a case fault (e.g. a hot wire breaking loose and contacting a chassis) via the breaker if it’s working properly. With a three-wire system it was common to be accidentally carrying neutral current on EGCs which at times of uneven loads (across L1 & L2) can be significant. And it has been deadly on numerous occasions for example when maintenance workers are well earthed, and happen to separate a conduit or EGC and their body becomes the circuit bridge for the accidental neutral currents or when the EGC wasn’t good enough allll the way back to the panel to clear an intermittent or poor-connection case fault via the overcurrent protective device. Disadvantage of 4-wire: one more wire required. Nowadays it’s code requirement in the US to have a 4-wire system and to NEVER BOND EGC and neutral anywhere but the first point of disconnect. Usually the meter base or the Service Entrance. Not an electrician, YMMV, do your own research, not liable for any opinions given here. See Mike Holt’s grounding website.
L👀K at ripped insulation on the load side of the meter... Holy shit ⚡‼️
Right 😂😂
That's just the plastic jacket. It protects the insulation.
It's a feed thru panel, so you need 2 hots, 1 neutral & ground to feed the sub panel. That is common practice for someone who is licensed...
Nice fiber bushing on load side
Thanks for the clear explanation for the non Americans out here on the interstring.
Very concise.
Jus call it neutral you know yuh want tooooo
No plastic bushing again!!!!
Not required with pcv fittings but I still go with them... however code does not require a bushing when using pvc fitting.
Also thank God he didn't have any red phase tape since that is usually ONLY used in 3 phase settings. Plus red is the indicator for wild legs on 120/240 3 phase
@@jeremytate3664 Nope. Red is used on single phase as well.
Single is black-red.
3 phase is black-red-blue.
I have no idea what you are calling a 'wild leg'.
@@Hathorr1067 look it up before you make an idiot out of yourself. I live in Louisiana and have been an electrician since 2004... BLACK RED BLUE denotes 3 phase of course... I never argued that. Here in Louisiana wild legs are common on houses that have both single phase service as well as a 3 phase service to feed air conditioners. I just used this Google thing and found this. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-leg_delta Hope its informative... I learned that in other areas its denoted by orange tape.
Where in the world did you learn electrical? Blue should only be used to mark the C-phase on 3-phase 208V. If it was a wild leg 208V/240V, you would mark it with orange phasing tape.
Congratulations, you bonded neutral and ground at your first means of disconnect like you're supposed to 🤷🏻♂️
I'm actually glad to see this. First connection which is usually the meter cam. What's the only place you bonded the neutral.. good job
It was bonded in the electrical panel that had a 200 amp MCB, not the meter “cam”. Auto spell didn’t help.
Wtf happened to having separate bus bars for neutral and ground and where do i buy the tool to both strip wire and shred the insulation prior to install
You can put equipment grounds and neutrals under the same buss bar in a meter base main box. From that point on like at the distribution panel they have to be separate of one another and the neutral buss bar has to be isolated from the metal box. It usually has plastic stand offs and is factory installed.
ONLY in the main panel are the neutral and ground tied.
He's got a combo meter/disconnect there - it is the service disconnecting means and this is where the Grounding and Grounded conductors are bonded together. The only thing that Argoelectrical seems to have gotten right is that it is the ONE time you bond those conductors.
Your main panel is always the first point of disconnect from the meter base. This dude did a crummy job with some of his connections but that part is right.
@@JustHazardous. You can say 100% sure without any doubt that in the NEC there is one and only location in an electrical system that neutral and ground are bonded?
Ground at the meter, load side, bottom end,not the distribution panel where it can be easily moved by someone that doesn't know what they are doing.
Damn man I can’t believe you posted this and thought you did a good job 😂😂
Bushings exist and are required to be installed before you pull the conductors specifically because of installations like this.
You referred to the Neuteal feed as a ground.
Ground has to be all green or bare to the rod.
Cite the code article that states that.
@@YaksAttack Do you own work! Where does it say the insulation can be black?
When “Red” is blue and GROUND GREEN IS white : Confusion 😮 INBOUND! 💥. What year did your… house burn 🔥 down?
Are you sure the neutral is the same as the ground? The neutral is the return path. The ground is the connection for leakage and emergency discharge.
2nd year apprentice - why’d you use Noalox on copper? I was taught it was short for No Aluminum Oxidation, Al being the elemental symbol for Aluminum
It might sound crazy but some inspectors want it no matter what really just depends on the jurisdiction
I alwqays thought that to @np5548. Actually, the Lubricant says it is ok for Copper as well as Aluminum.
@@Argoelectrical You should use Antiox for CU just as you do for AL. Especially outdoors.
Keeping oxygen, moisture away from your conductors is very important, especially if you're using AL wire.
Any area where there is moisture, you should use antiox coatings for bathroom, laundry room, kitchen, anywhere there is steam/moisture and an abundance of oxygen.
People don't worry much about oxidation of copper, since it allegedly retains is conductivity in an oxidized state, but AL actually loses its conductivity in exposed areas.
Losing that conductivity causes heat, AL wire under high load likes to expand due to heat and that expansion can loosen receptacle connections leading to arcing and fires.
I actually always thought no Nolox on copper, however, it is an appropriate anti oxidant for copper wire..Read the bottle
Quit think and open a nook or read manufacturer instructions. Don't assume anything in electrical work. Don't take anybody word on what's code. Get a code book and read for yourself.
Sub panel
Thank you for your time and video.
I have a separate panel that is not connected to the house. Its just in the yard and it powers my garage, my barn and a pump. There are 3 double pole, 60 amps each pole , breakers in this panel. For the breaker that powers the creek pump, 12 gauge wires that read 220V go down to power a creek pump. The pump was just on the ground. I have since built a pump house around it. Could i power a sm panel box with these wires and run a 220 pump and an outlet each with there own breaker? I need to plug in a heater to keep the pump from freezing in the winter.
Thank you 🙏
Really? #12 on a 60 amp breaker? Hmmm. Just might be a code violation. Especially since NEC very specifically states #12 is for 20 amp branch circuit, or less.
And in a subpanel where there is a ground bar and there is no ground i the main panel.
I’m sure that piece of number four solid ground could have gone in plastic, actually I think it is supposed to. Jill hole in the corner of the panel come on, dude.
He’d get dinged for the ground from the get-go. It should be in flex or conduit, with a listed fitting, not a bare wire poked through a hole drilled in the box. Jeez!
I have a question, does that grounding conductors could've been a smaller gauge ?
Yes For #150 Amp Panel the Grounding Electrode could use a #8 Bare Ground Wire, A 200 Amp Panel needs a Minimum of #6. I usually go one size larger.
@@Argoelectrical - I'm thinking that @Manuel-kd3zb was referring to the feeder ground conductor, not the grounding electrode conductor. I'm thinking he asked this because at a glance all 4 feeders do look to be the same size (though, if you look closely it appears that the feeder ground conductor 'might', 'might' be one gauge smaller). I think the ungrounded conductors are 3/0 (copper) [which means this is most likely a 200 amp rated service].
@Manuel-kd3zb - Yes, the feeder grounding conductor (EGC) can be a smaller gauge than the ungrounded conductors [NEC 250.122].
Yes This is the common practice in Residential wiring (Manufacturer set) Personally The Grounded or Neutral should be the same size as the 120volt lines@@gatsbylight4766
@@Argoelectrical - I didn't mention anything about the *grounded* conductor - I was clarifying the question about the *grounding* conductor.
Nice, didn’t want to get that last strand of your grounding conductor under the lug? Nolox on copper, who stripped those? Yikes.
Need to redo
didnt have any RED!!! kidding me? i have at LEAST 3 rolls of Red, green, white and Brown. come on at least have happily included one roll of red in the materials
If I was the inspector it’s failed inspection. One strand on sbj is not inside the ground lug. Looking closely I see nicked wires from meter to panel are damaged. You pretty much created weak point. This guy is a hack. Has balls to post this online.
All strands should be under the screw.
There's a loose strand on the ground wire
Where is the main breaker?
In the first few frames of the video, clearly shows 200 amp MCB.
@@KevinCoop1 I do not see any 200 amp MCB.
@@spicetaz Stop the video and set it at the beginning stopped. It is just above the text on the screen.
Where’s the main disconnect?😊
at the Top of the Buss
@Argoelectrical ... naw... the only way to shut it down is to pull the meter...
@@sterlingferguson7234. Start the video, stop it, and slide it back to the beginning. It clearly shows a 200A MCB. Mistakes cost money!
Home Depot was out of the big ground busses
The ground wire is FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFed....
Is the installation safe ???-
no it would fail inspection
Looks like a future lawsuit
Bonding screw?
Is it needed if there is nothing to insulate it from the can? Its an honest question because i thought the same thing but now thinking about it there is nothing separating it from the can ya know?
I’m willing to bet those Lugnuts aren’t torqued to specification.
Rough pull on the load side.?!
The second leg is gonna start a fire..
Grounds can't be re identified, and the ground bar seems not to be a proper ground loop.
It's a commercial setting with split-phase instead of 3-phase? Wow.
Commercial Never required to be 3 phase. The size of the structure and the equipment are what determine the electrical system.
Those conductor to lug terminations are horrible😳🤯.
Putting all strands in the lug is for suckers!!!
The ground isn’t all under lug
GROUND DING! TRAILER PARK SPECIALIST NO DOUBT...
What is that red piece called
Blue
The fact that you wouldn’t even say neutral, ground ground, ground ground ground
in official language the “neutral” is “grounded conductor” where green is “groundING conductor”
A corner grounded delta system doesn’t have a neutral wire but it has a grounded conductor. So a grounded conductor isn’t always a neutral. Also a neutral isn’t always grounded. Complete ungrounded systems exist. He could of said what the system was first and then used easier nomenclature such as “hot”, neutral, “ground”.
Wonder when his last project caught fire? 😂😂😂😂😂
Your copper to the ground rods needs to go to the meter base
That is up to the utility provider. Some will not allow it in their meter. But it is irrelevant because the neutral bar is continuous between the two spaces.
Per NEC in can be in the meter or the service disconnect
@@thomasmarable6818. Utility company rules Trump NEC. Their way or “Nope, not connecting”
Man he sounds confused as he’s pointing to the burned wires
Top effort for making a video. Wank work though. I’d delete it if I were you. 😂
Missing a Ground business
You mean buss? Not required to have separated ones in the Main panel.
I feel more confused then when I started the video
Why is he calling the split phase neutral a ground?
He call it the grounded conductor because that what it is. Looking up in article 100
Separate the neutral wire with the ground wire
incorrect
@@Argoelectrical explain what is the advantage and disadvantage by separating.
@@estv9598advantage of a 4-wire system: if faults develop in the line, you have a safety conductor (the EGC) that functions without parallel paths through random neutrals and grounds. Such a separate EGC will completely clear a case fault (e.g. a hot wire breaking loose and contacting a chassis) via the breaker if it’s working properly. With a three-wire system it was common to be accidentally carrying neutral current on EGCs which at times of uneven loads (across L1 & L2) can be significant. And it has been deadly on numerous occasions for example when maintenance workers are well earthed, and happen to separate a conduit or EGC and their body becomes the circuit bridge for the accidental neutral currents or when the EGC wasn’t good enough allll the way back to the panel to clear an intermittent or poor-connection case fault via the overcurrent protective device. Disadvantage of 4-wire: one more wire required. Nowadays it’s code requirement in the US to have a 4-wire system and to NEVER BOND EGC and neutral anywhere but the first point of disconnect. Usually the meter base or the Service Entrance. Not an electrician, YMMV, do your own research, not liable for any opinions given here. See Mike Holt’s grounding website.
According to NEC, this is the only place where neutral and ground should be bonded.
It is a split feed neutral, and it does tie to the ground in a panel.
Tell he’s a plumber
Nice job, but why waste time phasing the legs on a single phase service?😂
Some jurisdiction want it.
This won't pass code in china
Shoowee!
Omg how many years of experience do you have you don’t do that with the ground solid 🤦🏽 going inside the panel
Please explain your comment? Confusing!
Calling this guy an electrician is like calling Biden President both doing a horrible job
Some asshole (always a Trump supporter) has to make everything political.
Way better than Trumpty Dumbty who is a Convict!
This guy is a perfect example of someone who shouldnt be in charge of the situation, he may have a place in the company standing in line to buy materials and leave the work to a qualified craftsman. The amount of issues on such a brand new install is astounding, even an untrained eye should be worried. What a joke.
Take this down or re-label this as poor examples and terminology. In our locality, the Neutral and Ground are Bonded inside the Meter Base, not the Panel. You won't get away with not marking ALL conductors as well.
Bruh
😂😂😂😂 this is a joke, right? Right?? 😮
😳😳😳
Un safe won't pass inspection
I hope he doesn't have an apprentice
I don't know what is scarier. The job I just saw, or the fact that he is stupid enough to think it's a good job.
This video should be taken down. Shows upcoming electricians what not to do
So much wrong here
Нихуя не понял
You sir are a butcher lol
Really why is ground and neutral together to all DIY watching don’t do this hill billy crap
1st Point of disconnect is where the Grounded and Grounding conductors are attached. Check out Service Entrance
Calling it " hillbilly " while not understanding what you are talking about is hilarious. Grounding and grounded conductors are required to be bonded together at the service in the first world. What third world country are you in?
You are definitely not the sharpest tool in the shed. Neutrals and grounds are bonded at the first means of disconnect.
Please delete this
🤮
Terrible phasing looks like halfass work and its called x o bonding genius