Fantastic Kirk. The I bar has a great for next day. When scraping back. Use the feather edge when putting top coat try best have it flat as. Agree with troweling love have super flattened in ready for scrapping easier to see where going. Biggest problem as a bricklayer to trade is window cills and walls needs to 50mm over hang and a proper drip. Sadly customers don’t want pay for proper copes see so many put decorative slabs and don’t cut any checks for a drip. Looking forward to next video on this buddy. Cheers. 🤟🤟🤟
Nice summary, very insightful. I think it’s worth mentioning that most of these mistakes can just be primed and painted over 28 days later and will look much better. Especially the discoloration issues
@@richardcoffey6844 easy way to hide a lot of the issues he demonstrated. I’m not saying you “should” paint it generally, I’m saying it’s an easier solution than some of the things he presented. Of course it has to be approached on a case by case basis.
Exactly the same as fat kirk. You are a blessing to me my friend. Not because because I don't know but you are reassuring I know my worth. All the love!.
Great video mate an excellent insight into coloured renders 💯🎯 was very sceptical about monocouche even before watching this video and after watching it I've decided to stick to s&c 🤣 you may well change my mind with this series but I know where I am with s&c and with the mono theres too many variables and I personally think a s&c job done right will outlast any mono job......I may be wrong though. Would love to see thin coat when you get a chance. Massive respect for all your dedication and hard work I really dont know how you do it mate. All the best 👊🏻
Good lad, thanks for that, much appreciated. I have done small buildings with this stuff and found that’s about it’s limit. Bigger areas as you point out are a mine field and with too many fussy customers it’s a no no for me.
What I always done with K Rend was edge and float the walls before scarping, extra work I know, but always got a great finish, one of the most important parts to these jobs is hydrating the walls correctly before applying any finish, that makes a huge difference.
Your attention to detail is brilliant, Your My New Go To "Plastering Encyclopedia" the knowledge is top-notch Cheers 🍻, P.S.you put me off Krender 🤣😂🤣😂
I understand , what i try to do is explain to the customer all the problems and then also show them some real jobs iv done with sand and cement like 20 or 30 years ago with no cracks showing today , and then they might get the message , although it is difficult to get hold of good quality plastering sand have to get it shipped up from Southampton , and other places , have to surch around but makes all the difference to the finished job
Not always ,as long as the building has the correct drips it will stay clean for years ,I always advise customers on where the problems start,window sills are one of the worst but easy to correct with clear silicone stop the water running down the sides so it has to run down the face preventing stains.
the air pocket's is caused when you put in the gear up the wall if you're putting it up fast and thick your trap are behind it catch what you are scratching off and push it back into the holes and it will matching in if you try and use fresh stuff
Hi Boss.. Great Video. One of the few that I did not need to replay at 150% speed. The stuff looks like its risky to apply and needs a sealer by the looks. I need a 1m retaining wall around my house rendered so I am looking at all the types available. On my wall there is no damp course so can you suggest system to get me a stain free white finish. It would be good if it was easy to repair/touch up. Cheers Rich.
I have had this before last one I did I sponged it like sand cement, looks mint, instead of scraping it back. Looks mint and dead flat all looks uniform I was back at the house last week, about 4 years after I did it. Have you used ocr yet ? Opinion on it if you have
First mistake people make is hand balling it on, if you don’t know what you’re doing you’re doomed. It’s designed to be sprayed on .. nice fat coats loads of time to get it right, and thick enough you don’t expose first pass etc
Alright Kirk, what's your opinion on stop beads against window frames mate in that tiny little 30mm kick back from the corner bead? Not worth the hassle?
Hopefully the bellend that did my extension watches this! Is it possible to do anything to sort out dipping once it's dried or will it need another coat?
@@Onthetrowel yes mate nice one, have always wanted to have a go at rendering or k rend but I’m a one man band so a lot could go wrong for me on my Todd!
I have a split/crack in my K Rend. It’s been on 2 years now and crack has been there since the start. Guy said he would come back and sort but never did and now not answering me. Can anything be done? I have some off the original K Rend still.
if this doesn’t put me off k rend nothing will lol, i’m pretty good on s&c! but i’ve been begging spreads in my area to go with them to learn mono , i’ve even worked for free a few times! one thing i’ve seen is no one seems that good at it, hope you bring a tutorial on mono out!
all about gazing the water everything has to be the same that's why we mix when I do it we look at how much we need to do the lift on the scaffold then mix in a blue Bosch the next lift we gauged water exactly the same used to have big problems with it mixing small batches you don't think the water ratio matters but it does but it is being sold as a wonder product but it's s*** goes green after 2-years what I'm a firm believer in giving the customer what they want I'd rather stand cement put a fibreglass mesh and acrylic
Hi Kirk very informative video so thanks for that. How long after the K rend has been put on can you scrape it. . See a bungalow by me which has dishes in it after about 6 months of putting it on. Could it be scraped back now? Thanks. 👍👍👍👍✊
Jesus…how much is sand and cement again?😂 I’m so grateful for your insight pal ….as a diy’er this has scared the pants off me! I only have the top half the front of my house to do (7sqm or so ) so I’m going to use sand and cement…people say “ it will crack use k rend “ but as long as I mesh it well I should be ok….yes I’ll have to paint it but I can live with that ( and it’s a lot cheaper !!) thanks again 👌
Used it for years : it’s rubbish . All renders etc have their pros and cons but the coloured renders in my opinion are terrible . I could write a book.! They only really benefit the building companies. Those misses when you scrape… I kneel right down and look up the wall as low as I can. You can sometimes spot them better
Is there any preperation with the wall you render on too? I.e Does it all have to be back to brickwork or can you take all the loose stuff off and back to brick but the really tough sections that won't come off is it ok to leave those on and then build sections back out with maybe sand and cement to get it back to a decent level?
sorry for keep commenting if you want to scrape it back the same day a stiff broom head just brush it in circular motions trust me it works some French lads showed me when I was working in France also love the content , is that h w or an AA in the background 👍 I'm the same as you mate have passionate about plastering and rendering love the videos
Well that was informative I had to strip the sand and cement plaster off my new build house a Christian plasterer fucked it up cost me over 100 k I bankrupted him had my house redone in k rend first with silicon base with the whole house done in mesh and it’s perfect love the color and look but wouldn’t use it again because if anyone damages it it’s a nightmare your knowledge is great on this product
Vidoe was perfect 💪 Johnsons do a system where base coat is where u do all your prep, flat level etc then top coat is pre mixed and u apply a tight coat, no next day scratch of with all the dust, no halo, ghosting and its faster, have a look into it boss
also if it's a big job and you having more than one pallet of it you need to mix them pallets up for arguments sake for off the 1 and 4 off the other after the other because the company's will argue it's the same colour but the shade is different I've had this before they wouldn't meet a fault with a product but they happening give me 20 tubs of acrylic and primer to go over the top of it and base coat for free but there wasn't a problem with their product 😂😂
We had the front of our house done in monacouche early last year. Its OK in some areas and others it looks terrible. Bugs me everyday. Most of it looks like the ending scratching process hasn't been done right but I'm a sparks not a renderer. Not sure there is anything that can be done now
@@Onthetrowel he could prime and silicone it couldn’t he? Or do a 6mm - 10mm base coat over it all? I’ve just had a go on my house with this eco rend I’ll admit it’s not an easy product to get right i agree you need to get it on fast and flat also it was too hot I mean it’s not bad it’s pretty flat as I used the I bar just a few spots are lighter but I’m gonna paint it so I’m not too worried as Don’t like the colour 😂
you need to be quick with K Rend or have a good 2 and a 1 and have everything set out so there's no joints there's nothing worse than putting your heart and soul into a job then the customer not wanting to pay because of the high loads and ghost Lines
Just did scrape back i bar system krender job in white , dried cream apparently the white isnt actually white . Customer wouldnt pay so had to paint it in masonry paint . Fucking nightmare. Only brilliant white is in the thin coat tc15 system . Hate krend fucking horrible shit
I’ve always loved the look of brick houses!! 😂😂😂. Priceless info again Kirk. Thank you. 👍🏻
Fantastic Kirk. The I bar has a great for next day. When scraping back.
Use the feather edge when putting top coat try best have it flat as. Agree with troweling love have super flattened in ready for scrapping easier to see where going.
Biggest problem as a bricklayer to trade is window cills and walls needs to 50mm over hang and a proper drip. Sadly customers don’t want pay for proper copes see so many put decorative slabs and don’t cut any checks for a drip. Looking forward to next video on this buddy. Cheers. 🤟🤟🤟
Nice summary, very insightful. I think it’s worth mentioning that most of these mistakes can just be primed and painted over 28 days later and will look much better. Especially the discoloration issues
Why should you repaint it .Surely there should not be a problem in the first place.
@@richardcoffey6844 easy way to hide a lot of the issues he demonstrated. I’m not saying you “should” paint it generally, I’m saying it’s an easier solution than some of the things he presented. Of course it has to be approached on a case by case basis.
Absolutely brilliant Kirk so interesting please keep them up
Fantastic presentation! I am a newbie to rendering so these vids are absolute gold!
Great video thanks for taking the time to explain this 👍👍👍
Wow Kirk, another great video… I simply didn’t know there was so many problems with colour rend projects ❤👍
Awsum video yet again mate. No one puts issues and head scratchers to bed like you fair play. Clear and simple everytime. 👌
Made up you’ve done this video mate. On with a one coat job now. These tips are priceless. 🙏
Exactly the same as fat kirk. You are a blessing to me my friend. Not because because I don't know but you are reassuring I know my worth. All the love!.
Great video mate an excellent insight into coloured renders 💯🎯 was very sceptical about monocouche even before watching this video and after watching it I've decided to stick to s&c 🤣 you may well change my mind with this series but I know where I am with s&c and with the mono theres too many variables and I personally think a s&c job done right will outlast any mono job......I may be wrong though. Would love to see thin coat when you get a chance. Massive respect for all your dedication and hard work I really dont know how you do it mate. All the best 👊🏻
Good lad, thanks for that, much appreciated. I have done small buildings with this stuff and found that’s about it’s limit. Bigger areas as you point out are a mine field and with too many fussy customers it’s a no no for me.
What I always done with K Rend was edge and float the walls before scarping, extra work I know, but always got a great finish, one of the most important parts to these jobs is hydrating the walls correctly before applying any finish, that makes a huge difference.
Your attention to detail is brilliant, Your My New Go To "Plastering Encyclopedia" the knowledge is top-notch Cheers 🍻, P.S.you put me off Krender 🤣😂🤣😂
Great video mate. Avoid the stuff like the plague. Any plasterers from the Wirral wanting continuous work please get in touch. All private work.
Great video, think I’ll stick with conventional plaster
this is how my I was told to do it build it up in coats like if you was bonding out put it on flat do free passes and step the joint back each time
Excellent 👏
I understand , what i try to do is explain to the customer all the problems and then also show them some real jobs iv done with sand and cement like 20 or 30 years ago with no cracks showing today , and then they might get the message , although it is difficult to get hold of good quality plastering sand have to get it shipped up from Southampton , and other places , have to surch around but makes all the difference to the finished job
After several years it all looks a mess anyway, copings leaking, leadwork staining, birdshit and everyday dirt from traffic.
Not always ,as long as the building has the correct drips it will stay clean for years ,I always advise customers on where the problems start,window sills are one of the worst but easy to correct with clear silicone stop the water running down the sides so it has to run down the face preventing stains.
Don’t worry us decorators will save the day we have silicon based exterior emulsion to liven it back up 💪🏻👍🏻
Oh wow!!! Great video.
Ghosting with block work also happens if the render is applied to thin
the air pocket's is caused when you put in the gear up the wall if you're putting it up fast and thick your trap are behind it catch what you are scratching off and push it back into the holes and it will matching in if you try and use fresh stuff
Hi Boss.. Great Video. One of the few that I did not need to replay at 150% speed.
The stuff looks like its risky to apply and needs a sealer by the looks. I need a 1m retaining wall around my house rendered so I am looking at all the types available. On my wall there is no damp course so can you suggest system to get me a stain free white finish. It would be good if it was easy to repair/touch up. Cheers Rich.
You can apply the product 2 new block work. So it is 1 coat render .
I have had this before last one I did I sponged it like sand cement, looks mint, instead of scraping it back. Looks mint and dead flat all looks uniform I was back at the house last week, about 4 years after I did it. Have you used ocr yet ? Opinion on it if you have
Great video, I have krend. Is it possible to seal only parts of a wall? Not all of it is accesible without scaffolding
Great Video Mr Trowel, do you have any videos of k rend silicone system, TC15, More putting on and less taking off !
Serrated edge will help to get rid of air pockets
Love your videos my friend, can I ask if I need a base coat or can I just use two finish coats whilst k rendering a 3 block high planter . Thanks
Just subscribed..great advice
First mistake people make is hand balling it on, if you don’t know what you’re doing you’re doomed.
It’s designed to be sprayed on .. nice fat coats loads of time to get it right, and thick enough you don’t expose first pass etc
Alright Kirk, what's your opinion on stop beads against window frames mate in that tiny little 30mm kick back from the corner bead? Not worth the hassle?
Hopefully the bellend that did my extension watches this! Is it possible to do anything to sort out dipping once it's dried or will it need another coat?
Great vid, never done any rendering (only internal stuff), but very interesting none the less!
These are just the common things to watch out for nik
@@Onthetrowel yes mate nice one, have always wanted to have a go at rendering or k rend but I’m a one man band so a lot could go wrong for me on my Todd!
I have a split/crack in my K Rend. It’s been on 2 years now and crack has been there since the start. Guy said he would come back and sort but never did and now not answering me. Can anything be done? I have some off the original K Rend still.
if this doesn’t put me off k rend nothing will lol, i’m pretty good on s&c! but i’ve been begging spreads in my area to go with them to learn mono , i’ve even worked for free a few times! one thing i’ve seen is no one seems that good at it, hope you bring a tutorial on mono out!
You will enjoy this then mate as more videos coming out over the next few dzys
all about gazing the water everything has to be the same that's why we mix when I do it we look at how much we need to do the lift on the scaffold then mix in a blue Bosch the next lift we gauged water exactly the same used to have big problems with it mixing small batches you don't think the water ratio matters but it does but it is being sold as a wonder product but it's s*** goes green after 2-years what I'm a firm believer in giving the customer what they want I'd rather stand cement put a fibreglass mesh and acrylic
Hi Kirk very informative video so thanks for that. How long after the K rend has been put on can you scrape it. . See a bungalow by me which has dishes in it after about 6 months of putting it on. Could it be scraped back now? Thanks. 👍👍👍👍✊
There’s a lot more to mono couches than people think.
A lot think you can just scrape it off easy and it’s done… uh uh .
I've seen the houses when the sun hits and it dishes..looks terrible ..Mt first time round I'm looking to avoid all that
Jesus…how much is sand and cement again?😂
I’m so grateful for your insight pal ….as a diy’er this has scared the pants off me!
I only have the top half the front of my house to do (7sqm or so
) so I’m going to use sand and cement…people say “ it will crack use k rend “ but as long as I mesh it well I should be ok….yes I’ll have to paint it but I can live with that ( and it’s a lot cheaper !!) thanks again 👌
Used it for years : it’s rubbish . All renders etc have their pros and cons but the coloured renders in my opinion are terrible . I could write a book.! They only really benefit the building companies. Those misses when you scrape… I kneel right down and look up the wall as low as I can. You can sometimes spot them better
Yeah, that’s the way to spot them, and direct your pal to where they are to catch them.
Good advise’….👍🏼
Is there any preperation with the wall you render on too?
I.e Does it all have to be back to brickwork or can you take all the loose stuff off and back to brick but the really tough sections that won't come off is it ok to leave those on and then build sections back out with maybe sand and cement to get it back to a decent level?
If using 15mm bead
How this base coat ? Leaving x for finishing coat
Does it have to be scraped back or can you just rub it up.
As my building has troweled mine on and rubbed up only
👏👏👏
I’ve seen bad Krends painted over, totally defeats the object of them but that has had to be done to hide the mess.
What’s the best way to deal with halo rings?
Would a serated darby not prevent the air bubbles or bubbles you talked about
No mate, good idea but they are deeper than that, the air is literally between the basecoat and the top coat
sorry for keep commenting if you want to scrape it back the same day a stiff broom head just brush it in circular motions trust me it works some French lads showed me when I was working in France also love the content , is that h w or an AA in the background 👍 I'm the same as you mate have passionate about plastering and rendering love the videos
No mate I love it, keep the tips coming, every day is a school day.
Tell me more about this stiff broom. When do you brush it?
I use a spat to open up the render to let it set quicker couple hours after putting it on.
Good morning where to I buy the i bar. Scrapper 😊
I personally base coat it and then if it’s 10mm beads I do two passes of 5mm, twice ruled same day
Well that was informative I had to strip the sand and cement plaster off my new build house a Christian plasterer fucked it up cost me over 100 k
I bankrupted him had my house redone in k rend first with silicon base with the whole house done in mesh and it’s perfect love the color and look but wouldn’t use it again because if anyone damages it it’s a nightmare your knowledge is great on this product
You should be proud that you bankrupt him
I’ve noticed when i wet it down, I don’t get the air pockets
Is that with hand apply or machine?
Vidoe was perfect 💪
Johnsons do a system where base coat is where u do all your prep, flat level etc then top coat is pre mixed and u apply a tight coat, no next day scratch of with all the dust, no halo, ghosting and its faster, have a look into it boss
Every render brand does that mate it’s called a thin coat system been about for years. 👍🏻
Thanks
WOW ONLY JUST SAW THAT YOU SENT ME MONEY, THANKS SO SO MUCH MATE
@@Onthetrowel
Your welcome the best tips av seen on here for K rend.
Shall I get silicone render instead?
We’re having external wall insulation
You have to use a thin coat system mate
Contact the Terrix team if you are looking for a render which eradicate all of these problems .Life time !
the old Chinese man said many hands make light work
i will just keep to sand and cement
also if it's a big job and you having more than one pallet of it you need to mix them pallets up for arguments sake for off the 1 and 4 off the other after the other because the company's will argue it's the same colour but the shade is different I've had this before they wouldn't meet a fault with a product but they happening give me 20 tubs of acrylic and primer to go over the top of it and base coat for free but there wasn't a problem with their product 😂😂
great explanation , dont think its for our climate, looks horrible after a year.
We had the front of our house done in monacouche early last year. Its OK in some areas and others it looks terrible. Bugs me everyday. Most of it looks like the ending scratching process hasn't been done right but I'm a sparks not a renderer. Not sure there is anything that can be done now
Email me a picture of it mate. My email is in the channel description
@On the trowel I will when the weather clears up 👍
@@Onthetrowel he could prime and silicone it couldn’t he? Or do a 6mm - 10mm base coat over it all? I’ve just had a go on my house with this eco rend I’ll admit it’s not an easy product to get right i agree you need to get it on fast and flat also it was too hot I mean it’s not bad it’s pretty flat as I used the I bar just a few spots are lighter but I’m gonna paint it so I’m not too worried as
Don’t like the colour 😂
أريد عمل هل من الممكن
Kirk who does your thumbnails fucking cracking me up🤣 you got a filter on bud
🤣🤣🤣 look carefully, they have made me into a cartoon 😳🤣🤣
Kirk, where are you based mate?
you need to be quick with K Rend or have a good 2 and a 1 and have everything set out so there's no joints there's nothing worse than putting your heart and soul into a job then the customer not wanting to pay because of the high loads and ghost Lines
Just did scrape back i bar system krender job in white , dried cream apparently the white isnt actually white . Customer wouldnt pay so had to paint it in masonry paint . Fucking nightmare. Only brilliant white is in the thin coat tc15 system . Hate krend fucking horrible shit
Weber chalk
PRB white pearl
These are the whitest whites in mono rendering
Forget shite rend get on acrylic much better render to work with, sto rend is another crap render as well.
didn't watch. TO MANNY ADVERTS
RUclips put them in unfortunately.
It's how they pay to provide this platform for you