Worm gears give very high gear ratios and thus torque. In this video I made a simple model using a bolt as a worm wheel. / maciej-nowak-962547184 / mn.projects
I have done this on mills too. It is a very good method to create custom worm gear sets. You get very good engagement as well. I had to make these type of gear sets for scientific instruments. No one made the sizes and gear ratio I needed. Nice video and methods
@@adityarane5735 As Anel Pasic said, it's vary rare to find a wheel gear that isn't brass or bronze unless it's special purpose. That is your wear gear. Normally, the wheel gear is attached to another gear that leads into further gear reduction to handle even more torque if so desired.
@@jaakkopontinen or, just dont show your fucked up bit of the gear on video that might also be the case. he made it out of brass anyways so its totally useless
@@higamerXD Not really. It's common to have a bronze ring gear. One, it will protect the motor since it will strip first, and it's a stronger gear to make out of brass compared to the pinion worm gear. Bronze is actually quite strong. Plus, it will hold oil better compared to steel.
I have been a Tool & Die maker for over 50 years but I want to commend you on your skill and ability to make such a fine project with so little. Your methods at times scare me as far as safety goes and your fingers as holding things with your hands can lead to the loss of fingers and I have seen eyes put out in machine shops I have worked in but still I have never seen so much made with so little. ' We used to have a saying when I worked at Arizona State University in the Physics Machine Shop for 20 years before I retired. "We the willing, lead by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much for so long with so little that we are now qualified to anything with nothing at all"! You personify that statement! You Rock my friend and I say Kudos to you. What a beautiful job you did with rudimentary tools. Your ingenuity is to be admired. It takes a person with knowledge of such devices (worm and worm wheel) to appreciate what you have done. The unknowing will just look at it and see nothing. Truly, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. The knowing will see beauty in every step. The unknowing will just stare like a deer in a headlight. Take care and keep up the good work. Maximus has spoken.
A special work! I've been working with machines for 15 years but I can still learn tricks from you. Today's technology no longer allows you to learn things. Wonderfully worked and clean. Good luck
@@Inventive101 ah, you mean hand made things. fair enough but on the other hand, there is a lot to learn with cnc/software/3D printing and new materials tech. exciting times in a different way.
Well done, master of machining! I would like to reply to some comments made about the accuracy of the cutting procedure. One calculates the Pitch Circle Diametre (PCD) of the threading tap to the size of gear one wants to cut also using the PCD to size the final dimension of the gear.
this looks amazing. I do wonder just how much strain those smaller threads can take on a single side like that If it can take a few thousand pounds without deforming the threads this would be an amazingly useful bit of kit to have.
The guy most obviously knows what he's doing. I pretty sure he understands loads in respect to the application. I believe he made it more for the need of the ratio and not the output force seeing that's what he cited in text.
@@TechieTard Myself, I would have used aluminum bronze , it's really tough. And for the bearing bosses..... I was kinda hoping he was using a digital readout on the X and Y axis' of the mill....... The back lash on the threads seems a bit excessive..... say 20 thou instead of maybe 3 or 4 thou.... meaning I would have used a fly-cutter to get the bosses dead-center for proper back-lash clearances..... but then, that's just me being a fuss-budget, lol.
Fantastic work mate! Looks really good, works well too. Best to have a nice tight press fit for bearings, if that's not possible then make it a sliding fit and use loctite bearing retainer (638/648) for bearing/shaft seals instead of jb-weld or generic epoxy. Also use tapered roller bearings instead of ball bearings for the bolt-drive if there's going to be high axial loads.
Tapered bearing thrust side only. Other side should be a ball bearing. If they are both tapered the off side bearing clearance will increase as the heat of operation expands the housing.
Very nice.! U know instead of jb weld like u use on ur bearings u can use medium/semi permanent or red/ permanent thread locker with thread locker u have the option to change the bearings if needed in future with a heat gun. That’s how I installed mine when I was building belt pulley ls for belt grinder and it works perfectly till this day and it’s been over a year now almost daily use.
Very nice! It should be said though that not all worm gears have a locked output gear. I currently have a 15:1 gear in front of me which is actually back-driveable. Just so no one builds a dangerous machine based on the information in the video.
I really like the way you cut the thread on the gear very ingenious. I really did not like the use of epoxy instead of press fit or even snap rings to retain the bearings. But yeah pretty cool. Impressive welding also
taps are a certain number of threads per inch or millimeter. As such you calculate the diameter such that the circumference is evenly divisible by the threads per inch/mm of your tap.
i hope I get to do something like that on a lathe at my university. Ive wanted to construct a heavy telescope mount for a long time but an essential part of those is a worm gear (since they spin at around one revolution per 23h 56m)
That is an elegant solution. I wonder if you could repeat this exorcise with an acme thread. 😁 Of course a thrust bearing might be of more use in this case.
Nice job. I have a Taiwanese Mill with a very touchy spindle quill drive, 5 deg turn of the handle is about 3th. I am at the moment making a worm wheel and worm gear for it so this video is inspiring. Thank you.
Hi ! The idea is good but...... The tool you used to create the teeth on the crown would have to be slightly different. As there is a height difference between the tooth head and the tooth foot, the tool would have to be modified so that the coupling between the screw and the crown was more precise. It may work, but it can't be too demanding on the system.
Wow dude! I'm very impressed with your ingenuity on this project. I do have one question for you if you don't mind. Why didn't you cut the bolt support bearing housing to a .001"/.002" press fit? The epoxy works too, and i love the finished product! 10 out of 10 in my book Brother.
Качество изготовления потрясающее. Мне кажется, что подшипники на приводном червяке должны быть упорными, либо, как минимум, должны иметь крышки. Иначе высокий крутящий момент вырвет болт вместе с подшипниками. Еще, наверное, надо бы масляную ванну предусмотреть для смазки шестерен
Great job! How to calculate diameter' gear, if you want a determined number of teeth? And how "pitch" first and last teeth in the first pass? Does it "automatically" match? Thanks.
Question When that wheel comes around to the original place of starting, What's to say it will line up correctly to the original threads? I think you were lucky, unless you did some serious calculations
Nice and interesting your presentation, but I have a question: when you first cut that gear using a M20 tap, how did you know the gear would have an integer number of teeth? That operation is usually made using a divider in order to get an integer number of teeth.
You can make a good guess at a tooth radius that will work by doing some math. If you are off by a small bit, the setup will mostly self correct, dividing the error evenly spreading the error across all teeth. You run into the same challenge when knurling - a knurling roller has a set spacing that you want to work out to wrapping around the part an integer number of times. But nobody uses a divider to lay out knurls.
The out diameter has to be cut to very close tolerances in order for the hobbed teeth to be perfectly in sync. There will be charts or tables available for this.
I guess if it's brass, you could just keep running it and increase depth until clean teeth were evenly formed, but youd have to be pretty close to the target OD to start off. Im sure there's charts for # of teeth for diameter based on TPI, but it might be faster to do the math than search for that. (1 /your bolt TPI) = spline spacing, then multiply that by # of splines you want = Circumference, then (C / 3.14) will give you the OD inches. there's other ways. this will get you close
Outside calipers and a willingness to spend more time with a dremel in 90 second increments until you've arrived? Sneak up on it? The other responses are right about self-correcting, assuming one is close, but I'd be prepared to assert you could get it down to lathe tolerances with a dremel and a LOT of patience...
Very interesting. How did you know how to make the threads on the gear "intersect" at the end? I assume it was a calculation, but how does that get made? I mean, you could take it around once, and it could obviously just start a new threading overlaid on the old one, messing up the point -- the thread had to **exactly** match into itself after one (and each subsequent) revolution of the work gear blank.... even a fraction of an inch of variance would have meant a less than accurate in-fit with each successive revolution, meaning slop... How did you determine what was done/needed?
Could be wrong but I'd think after hand turning it to pilot the threads then having the lathe spin it several hundred times most likely created the path needed based on the positioning (how true/little the tap had any play) it creates a true pattern automatically based on it being a circle, plus possibly he just did the math based on thread space/circumference of the circle idk lol :P I'm lonely what can I say.
Наука
![Megan Thee Stallion - Otaku Hot Girl [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/USxIYOaIpig/mqdefault.jpg)
I have done this on mills too. It is a very good method to create custom worm gear sets. You get very good engagement as well. I had to make these type of gear sets for scientific instruments. No one made the sizes and gear ratio I needed. Nice video and methods
MAN! Man! MAN!!! This is genius! Using a common threading bit and a lathe... oh boy I will make so many worm reductors now lol THANK YOU!
Now my elevator may not go to the top floor all the time, but I have a sneaking suspicion you might have a little sarcasm in that tone of yours.
I doubt the strength of brass gear teeth.
It wont be able to bear high torques.
You will need high strength materials and also axial load bearings.
@@adityarane5735 Most worm gears are made from either brass or bronze.
You are underestimating the shear strength of those two materials.
How do you calculate the diameter?
@@adityarane5735 As Anel Pasic said, it's vary rare to find a wheel gear that isn't brass or bronze unless it's special purpose. That is your wear gear. Normally, the wheel gear is attached to another gear that leads into further gear reduction to handle even more torque if so desired.
Wow, that is the most effed up way I've ever seen a gear cut, and it worked just fine. Props.
Yeah it just happened to align :D
@@jaakkopontinen ive been trying to figure out how he got it to align nicely too
Trial / error /luck. Or perhaps math (diameter vs pitch), but that would, of course, require veeery precise calibration and settings on the lathe.
@@jaakkopontinen or, just dont show your fucked up bit of the gear on video that might also be the case. he made it out of brass anyways so its totally useless
@@higamerXD Not really. It's common to have a bronze ring gear. One, it will protect the motor since it will strip first, and it's a stronger gear to make out of brass compared to the pinion worm gear. Bronze is actually quite strong. Plus, it will hold oil better compared to steel.
I spent fifty years in toolrooms, building stamping dies, injection molds, and lots of prototype gizmos. I am very impressed.
It’s been a pleasure viewing your gears, young man. Thank for the performance.
Using threading tap is a briliant idea. Thanks for the film!
I am so thankful to have come across this wonderful,amazing, video. Thank you very much!!!!
I have been a Tool & Die maker for over 50 years but I want to commend you on your skill and ability to make such a fine project with so little.
Your methods at times scare me as far as safety goes and your fingers as holding things with your hands can lead to the loss of fingers and I have seen eyes put out in machine shops I have worked in but still I have never seen so much made with so little.
'
We used to have a saying when I worked at Arizona State University in the Physics Machine Shop for 20 years before I retired.
"We the willing, lead by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful.
We have done so much for so long with so little that we are now qualified to anything with nothing at all"!
You personify that statement!
You Rock my friend and I say Kudos to you. What a beautiful job you did with rudimentary tools. Your ingenuity is to be admired. It takes a person with knowledge of such devices (worm and worm wheel) to appreciate what you have done. The unknowing will just look at it and see nothing.
Truly, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. The knowing will see beauty in every step. The unknowing will just stare like a deer in a headlight.
Take care and keep up the good work.
Maximus has spoken.
Thank you ! MISTER MAUDESLAY !! / VAUCANSEN !!!
A special work! I've been working with machines for 15 years but I can still learn tricks from you. Today's technology no longer allows you to learn things. Wonderfully worked and clean. Good luck
I appreciate you brother give me a shout out please..I'll be waiting
'Today's technology no longer allows you to learn things.' what..?
@@daos3300 For example in your video. At work, everything is done on cnc, we rarely do manual work
@@Inventive101 ah, you mean hand made things. fair enough but on the other hand, there is a lot to learn with cnc/software/3D printing and new materials tech. exciting times in a different way.
@@daos3300 It's true, it's also a beautiful part of things. I'm a manual fan anyway
Well done, master of machining!
I would like to reply to some comments made about the accuracy of the cutting procedure.
One calculates the Pitch Circle Diametre (PCD) of the threading tap to the size of gear one wants to cut also using the PCD to size the final dimension of the gear.
Excellent job, after long time working I learned something completly new. Thanks
Very nicely done. Might be a good idea to cover the ways of the lathe when using the Dremel.
Wow! - projekt jest genialny i zrobiony bardzo estetycznie, na pewno wypróbuję
Beautiful work, brother. Well made!
this looks amazing. I do wonder just how much strain those smaller threads can take on a single side like that If it can take a few thousand pounds without deforming the threads this would be an amazingly useful bit of kit to have.
well, he did take brass so realistically this is only a desk decor piece as the brass could never take any amount of real force
Won't take much over time.
The guy most obviously knows what he's doing. I pretty sure he understands loads in respect to the application. I believe he made it more for the need of the ratio and not the output force seeing that's what he cited in text.
@@TechieTard Myself, I would have used aluminum bronze , it's really tough.
And for the bearing bosses..... I was kinda hoping he was using a digital readout on the X and Y axis' of the mill....... The back lash on the threads seems a bit excessive..... say 20 thou instead of maybe 3 or 4 thou.... meaning I would have used a fly-cutter to get the bosses dead-center for proper back-lash clearances..... but then, that's just me being a fuss-budget, lol.
I don't understand how there can be people who don't like this work of yours, it's GREAT, very professional, greetings from Punta Umbría-Huelva.
Fantastic work mate! Looks really good, works well too.
Best to have a nice tight press fit for bearings, if that's not possible then make it a sliding fit and use loctite bearing retainer (638/648) for bearing/shaft seals instead of jb-weld or generic epoxy. Also use tapered roller bearings instead of ball bearings for the bolt-drive if there's going to be high axial loads.
Depends on it's use. With JB weld you don't need a circlip or retainer cap, I use it often for this purpose especially if it is low speed low load..
Tapered bearing thrust side only. Other side should be a ball bearing. If they are both tapered the off side bearing clearance will increase as the heat of operation expands the housing.
Love the project for my little shop. Good job man.
Pretty fantastic work, dude! Nicely done! 😃
Looking forward to see where you're going to use it!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It is so spectacular watching how you used the tap to make gear teeth. Amazing work and so satisfying to watch.
Yes this was the coolest part! Very inspiring
It’s called hobbing.
Great job very professional. Respect for you genius. 👏👏👏
Very nice.! U know instead of jb weld like u use on ur bearings u can use medium/semi permanent or red/ permanent thread locker with thread locker u have the option to change the bearings if needed in future with a heat gun. That’s how I installed mine when I was building belt pulley ls for belt grinder and it works perfectly till this day and it’s been over a year now almost daily use.
Amazing work.
Thank you
Very cool. Love the shop.
Very nice! It should be said though that not all worm gears have a locked output gear. I currently have a 15:1 gear in front of me which is actually back-driveable. Just so no one builds a dangerous machine based on the information in the video.
Brilliant Mechanical Work 👌👌👌
Well, 'I learned something new. Thanks for the upload.
I really like the way you cut the thread on the gear very ingenious. I really did not like the use of epoxy instead of press fit or even snap rings to retain the bearings. But yeah pretty cool. Impressive welding also
Impressive work!
Awesome work sir, keep up a good work sir, appreciating from the Philippines
Very good idea. Thank you.
Very amazing work
świetna robota ładnie wyszło
You do beautiful work. You're a freaking genius...
wow... extremly professional
Excellent work
Świetna robota! Genialny i prosty sposób z gwintownikiem! Pozdrawiam!
how do you calculate the diameter in order to avoid a thread mismatch at the end of the work?
taps are a certain number of threads per inch or millimeter. As such you calculate the diameter such that the circumference is evenly divisible by the threads per inch/mm of your tap.
@@therestorationshop right
Pie is good, very tasty, everyone loves pie.... you guys like pie? Apple pie... cherry pie... shoe fly pie... mmmmmm mmmmmm love me some PI !
Good question and best answer too.
You’re making it look way too easy, I just wish it was for everyone, awesome!
You are a”REAL” boss, thanks.
nicely done...good job
Very impressive!
Great design nice thank you so much sir.
Thanks for the video!
It would be nice to know what made you take this approach!
So clearly explained!
Beautiful job. You make it look so simple. I know it isn’t.
Excellent engineering skills . A pleasure to view your detailed work . . Keep up the excellent work and content . Amazing quality work .
Great workmanship!
i hope I get to do something like that on a lathe at my university. Ive wanted to construct a heavy telescope mount for a long time but an essential part of those is a worm gear (since they spin at around one revolution per 23h 56m)
Yes. This will work neatly on a tracking mount.
Wow.. Spectacular job mate 👍❤️😁
I love it. this is so informatif
Spectacular! Amazing! this will be the base for a lathe divider with Arduino and stepper motor.
Compliments for your idea and your work
it's beautiful, I love it
Great job, Great Video.
No comment. Super work
That is an elegant solution.
I wonder if you could repeat this exorcise with an acme thread. 😁
Of course a thrust bearing might be of more use in this case.
Nice job. I have a Taiwanese Mill with a very touchy spindle quill drive, 5 deg turn of the handle is about 3th. I am at the moment making a worm wheel and worm gear for it so this video is inspiring. Thank you.
Hi !
The idea is good but......
The tool you used to create the teeth on the crown would have to be slightly different.
As there is a height difference between the tooth head and the tooth foot, the tool would have to be modified so that the coupling between the screw and the crown was more precise.
It may work, but it can't be too demanding on the system.
El torno la maquina más completa sin dudas!
Professionals Always Professionals keep it up 👌👌✌✌👉👉👍👍🤝
Ya got a thumbs up from me my friend! 👍. Well done.
I like the vice on your drill press
a very nice idea
I made one very similar. Only issue is once you add a load on the worm gear, the steel bolt will destroy the brass gear.
Shout out to the people including me who has no lathe🤣🤣🤣🤣
Можно попробовать на токарном по дереву
Great vid. How did you position the drive gear in the housing to obtain an accurate backlash on the worm?
Wow dude! I'm very impressed with your ingenuity on this project. I do have one question for you if you don't mind. Why didn't you cut the bolt support bearing housing to a .001"/.002" press fit? The epoxy works too, and i love the finished product! 10 out of 10 in my book Brother.
Nice work! We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
That's so cool!!!
Oooh, that's practical engineering!😀😀😀
You just added a tool to my kit bag. Thank you!!
иииии подача смазки в такой узел тугой струёй.
Лайк, людям с руками всегда лайк
I´d so much loved to learn things like that. Metal working is a nice hobby.
I can't believe what great job you did ! You're just AWESOME
Me: I wonder what kind of $3000 tool he will use to make those threads.
Him: hand tap
Me: .....ITS SO BEAUTIFUL
Excellent!!!
Looks and works great!
This makes me want a mini lathe so bad!
Super work I like it
Really cool. So many techniques in this video I wouldn't think of.
Качество изготовления потрясающее. Мне кажется, что подшипники на приводном червяке должны быть упорными, либо, как минимум, должны иметь крышки. Иначе высокий крутящий момент вырвет болт вместе с подшипниками. Еще, наверное, надо бы масляную ванну предусмотреть для смазки шестерен
Thank you for not just blasting music during the video.
Nice video, thanks :)
Great job! How to calculate diameter' gear, if you want a determined number of teeth?
And how "pitch" first and last teeth in the first pass? Does it "automatically" match?
Thanks.
Красота и только!
Brilliant 👏
I am impressed
Brilliant!
Just great , thnx a lot
Beautiful
muito bom
blz Dantes ✌
Great work, beautiful worm gear. When in actual use, it will need some grease.
I would suggest lithium grease for the interface between the gear and the screw.
Question
When that wheel comes around to the original place of starting, What's to say it will line up correctly to the original threads?
I think you were lucky, unless you did some serious calculations
I'm not a machinist but I assume you could get your tap TPI, multiply it by a certain factor and that's your disc circumference
Great work as usual Maciej 😎👍
Excelente projeto! Parabéns.
Pra que serve?
Nice and interesting your presentation, but I have a question: when you first cut that gear using a M20 tap, how did you know the gear would have an integer number of teeth? That operation is usually made using a divider in order to get an integer number of teeth.
worked to nearest standardised diametral pitch? plenty of scope with the manual grinding (would have used a form tool myself)
You can make a good guess at a tooth radius that will work by doing some math. If you are off by a small bit, the setup will mostly self correct, dividing the error evenly spreading the error across all teeth.
You run into the same challenge when knurling - a knurling roller has a set spacing that you want to work out to wrapping around the part an integer number of times. But nobody uses a divider to lay out knurls.
The out diameter has to be cut to very close tolerances in order for the hobbed teeth to be perfectly in sync. There will be charts or tables available for this.
I guess if it's brass, you could just keep running it and increase depth until clean teeth were evenly formed, but youd have to be pretty close to the target OD to start off. Im sure there's charts for # of teeth for diameter based on TPI, but it might be faster to do the math than search for that.
(1 /your bolt TPI) = spline spacing, then multiply that by # of splines you want = Circumference, then (C / 3.14) will give you the OD inches. there's other ways. this will get you close
Outside calipers and a willingness to spend more time with a dremel in 90 second increments until you've arrived? Sneak up on it? The other responses are right about self-correcting, assuming one is close, but I'd be prepared to assert you could get it down to lathe tolerances with a dremel and a LOT of patience...
great job sir a big greeting from casablanca "morocco"
Very interesting. How did you know how to make the threads on the gear "intersect" at the end? I assume it was a calculation, but how does that get made? I mean, you could take it around once, and it could obviously just start a new threading overlaid on the old one, messing up the point -- the thread had to **exactly** match into itself after one (and each subsequent) revolution of the work gear blank.... even a fraction of an inch of variance would have meant a less than accurate in-fit with each successive revolution, meaning slop... How did you determine what was done/needed?
Could be wrong but I'd think after hand turning it to pilot the threads then having the lathe spin it several hundred times most likely created the path needed based on the positioning (how true/little the tap had any play) it creates a true pattern automatically based on it being a circle, plus possibly he just did the math based on thread space/circumference of the circle idk lol :P I'm lonely what can I say.
very good idea...............
Looks ideal for a homemade power cross feed for the milling machine.
Indeed.
Edit - Speed rate change would be as easy as four bolts.
@@davidcarter2368 yes, good point.
How did you determine the radius or diameter of the wheel to allow the tap to fit perfectly along the circumference?
I have an impression that he continued until it fit :)