Great video. One thing worth mentioning is the drilled and slotted rotors are side specific. I see cars all the time with the wrong rotor on the wrong side.
Good video, clear and concise. I would only add that I slacken off the wheel nuts while the car is on the ground, and clean the rotor from anything that may have been used to protect it.
Oh good call on cleaning the rotor beforehand- I will add that note! We did break the lug nuts free before lifting the wheel to then remove them all the way- it is a lot easier, you're right ✅
Hey there Corey thanks! I have not yet explored that- i know you can reset certain modules using Forscan but I haven't done it myself. Are you sure it's an electronic issue? When you say delayed engagement are you saying that it is a hard shift or a higher rev before gear change?
I have a ford escape 2014 I did the rear pad didn't know about the compress tool, long story short. Message on dashboard "Hill Start assist not available " and "Brake, Traction and ABS light is on" what did I do wrong? And can I fix it.?
I would Just use brake caliper grease on the sliding parts. Anti seize is abrasive by design. the pads likely came with caliper slide grease, put a light coating on the back of the pad, the pad slides and the caliper pins. I also used it on the hub face because it was on hand, but anti seize there wouldn't be a problem
*QUESTION:* Where is the PCV valve on the 2015 Ford Escape 2.0L? It's about that time for a tune-up, and I'd like to replace the PCV valve while I'm under the hood. I haven't replaced it in 40K miles, and it's a cheap enough replacement for extra peace-of-mind. All the information I've found has been for older models. I knew where it was on my old Cavalier I had, but not my Escape I know it's on the back of the engine, but it's hard to tell where it is with an untrained eye.
Hey there Sjon- I will look into that for you. I knew at some point but I can't seem to find it at the moment. You're not the first person to ask so I should find out!
Sorry about that- this was one of our videos before we got our sound mixing dialed in. I wish RUclips would let us adjust it once it's uploaded but unfortunately we can't. Hope you could still get what you needed from there- give a shout if you need any clarification or details. Thanks for the heads up!
Holy cow! The special tool to compress the caliper wasn't included in the necessary parts list to do this job. Where the heck do you get one? Why isn't this the most important piece of information presented? Come on guys. Without thus tool, you cannot do this job at all. All else you present is useless without this tool. Very frustrating. You should state this first and foremost in your video. If you do not have the "special tool", you are S.O.L. Go home. Forget doing this job.
Shoot- you're absolutely right. We did link it in the description below if you need it. I did forget to include that in the video itself- its been a while since posting this, so I appreciate the heads up. Hopefully everything else was useful info and we show the tool being used but yes, I did not include it in the initial tools needed- my mistake on that. Appreciate the feedback to make this better!
Well done mate. Thank you for sharing
Thanks Joseph! Hope all is well on your end sir
Great video. One thing worth mentioning is the drilled and slotted rotors are side specific. I see cars all the time with the wrong rotor on the wrong side.
First time hearing two different rotors from left and right sides on rear brakes. Is that mentioned in an OE service manual?
@@chrissarr4101 ruclips.net/video/xFBUUAaYSOg/видео.htmlsi=VP6PNZESSd2lnawq&t=38
Good video, clear and concise. I would only add that I slacken off the wheel nuts while the car is on the ground, and clean the rotor from anything that may have been used to protect it.
Oh good call on cleaning the rotor beforehand- I will add that note! We did break the lug nuts free before lifting the wheel to then remove them all the way- it is a lot easier, you're right ✅
This is great for replacing the rotor and the pads. I also need to know the correct way to replace the calipers. I haven’t found a video yet.
You keep saying T40, but the caption shows T45
Great video I have 2014 Escape SE EcoBoost is there any way to reset the TCM having a delayed engagement problem
Hey there Corey thanks! I have not yet explored that- i know you can reset certain modules using Forscan but I haven't done it myself. Are you sure it's an electronic issue? When you say delayed engagement are you saying that it is a hard shift or a higher rev before gear change?
@@HowToEscapeDIYTipsandReviews when I'm at a stoplight it doesn't take off well when I accelerate then it jerks into gear
I have a ford escape 2014 I did the rear pad didn't know about the compress tool, long story short. Message on dashboard "Hill Start assist not available " and "Brake, Traction and ABS light is on" what did I do wrong? And can I fix it.?
I would Just use brake caliper grease on the sliding parts. Anti seize is abrasive by design. the pads likely came with caliper slide grease, put a light coating on the back of the pad, the pad slides and the caliper pins. I also used it on the hub face because it was on hand, but anti seize there wouldn't be a problem
Better yet for the slide pins is NAPA Syl-Glide!! We use it on Ford Super Dutys.
Thanks Richard and Chad- that is a very good point- I will add that to the video description and link the Syl-Glide. Appreciate the tips!
Very interesting and helpful, thanks for for the input 😊
*QUESTION:* Where is the PCV valve on the 2015 Ford Escape 2.0L? It's about that time for a tune-up, and I'd like to replace the PCV valve while I'm under the hood. I haven't replaced it in 40K miles, and it's a cheap enough replacement for extra peace-of-mind. All the information I've found has been for older models. I knew where it was on my old Cavalier I had, but not my Escape
I know it's on the back of the engine, but it's hard to tell where it is with an untrained eye.
Hey there Sjon- I will look into that for you. I knew at some point but I can't seem to find it at the moment. You're not the first person to ask so I should find out!
You said T40 torx bit but the word across the video say T45 torx bit
Very quiet video.
Sorry about that- this was one of our videos before we got our sound mixing dialed in. I wish RUclips would let us adjust it once it's uploaded but unfortunately we can't. Hope you could still get what you needed from there- give a shout if you need any clarification or details. Thanks for the heads up!
Holy cow! The special tool to compress the caliper wasn't included in the necessary parts list to do this job. Where the heck do you get one? Why isn't this the most important piece of information presented? Come on guys. Without thus tool, you cannot do this job at all. All else you present is useless without this tool. Very frustrating. You should state this first and foremost in your video. If you do not have the "special tool", you are S.O.L. Go home. Forget doing this job.
Shoot- you're absolutely right. We did link it in the description below if you need it. I did forget to include that in the video itself- its been a while since posting this, so I appreciate the heads up. Hopefully everything else was useful info and we show the tool being used but yes, I did not include it in the initial tools needed- my mistake on that. Appreciate the feedback to make this better!
Yep. Channel locks and metal plate are risky. C clamp/plate type is best.