Hi Carl! Excellent progress! To chime in, a black painted PCB will indeed heat up a little slower as a black body is also the most efficient radiator. So if the intent is to radiate energy, black is better, if it is to reflect , then the opposite of black, ie white is better. Since the purpose of the unit is not merely to heat up itself, but rather to transfer this heat to the PCB you're soldering, this is something you need to consider. Again, choosing black may not be the obvious solution. Since what you care for is that the frequencies emitted by the UNIT is also absorbed by the reflow solder. If you can choose the colour of the PCB which is in the bandwidth of IR absorbed by the solder, you should get more efficient results. I'll leave this to you to experiment with! Love all your videos!
@@MrFaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa if the advantage is so minimal that it's not worth having this discussion, then no. I feel like the effort of discussing a topic should be taken into account
Hi, well done. Some comments on the heater. In next revision you could make a pcb without any solder mask and then manually apply high heat enamel spray paint used to paint grills. These can withstand temperatures up to 650 degree Fahrenheit. Then you could make wider PCB tracks in order to lower resistance and thus push more power into it. Good luck with the project!
@@xhivo97 the stack up for a one layer IMS board is copper, insulator, aluminium. The Tg value relates to the insulator part. In some cases it is some kind of fr4, others it is ceramic. With a 130c Tg, this is probably FR4.
@@CarlBugeja no soldermask would just mean that the pcb is FR4 and Copper, I don't see the problem if you apply a high heat enamel paint like @lukas kazlauskas said ?
I don’t know if you’ll read this but your process of idea to actual product is so impressive to me. You motivated me to go into this field and now I work somewhere where too can learn how to make my own pcbs. Thank you 🙏🏼
If anything I'd expect the black soldermask to heat up slower/ have a lower equilibrium temperature since it likely has a higher emissivity than the purple.
Actually, i wonder if his temperature readout did compensate for the emissivity of the coating at all. For tests like these, using a real temperature probe on the surface usually is a good idea to verify what you thermal camera or IR probe reads.
The moment I saw the PCB I thought to myself, I hope I will see an Egg frying test and after a few seconds there was it... Keep up the great work Carl, I really like your product design experiments and proof of concept videos.
You need to adjust the emissivity on your IR when pointing it at copper. Recommend you spray a patch with barbeque paint. Assuming e=0.95 when the surface would have a lower e will measure the temperature much lower than it really is.
That's not necessary when the copper is covered by solder mask. The sensor sees only the temps of the solder mask and doesn't care for whats underneath. People are always confused when it comes to this topic. Only shiny metal surfaces have low emission and thermal imaging works with very long wavelengths IR radiation that has nothing in common with visible light
@@jackmclane1826 And exposed copper is exactly what it has in the outter circle where he says that is much more cooler... I think that is what this guy refers to. And solder mask, which is very reflective at visible spectrum, could be also be very reflective at thermal IR... Or not, but you don't know until you measure it against a very black mate paint and, preferably, a contact physical calibrated thermometer. So you don't know its emissivity and its real temperature. Very cheap multimeters do more precise measurements with cheap thermopairs.
I have to say Carl, when u cracked that egg, I literally fell from my chair laughing! Amazing work man! I am buying this product the moment you make it available! Amazing product! Great video! Excited for the net version as always!
In an enclosure, the black PCB would reach the temp faster, while outside an enclosure, a white pcb might reach it faster. The reason for this is simple, and why people who wear white to stay cool in the summer tend to end up cooking up and away. White has far more bubbles and empty pockets in it due to the lack of pigment or whatever, which makes it a fantastic insulator despite the reflective properties, while black is completely filled up, no place for the temperature to sit and ponder it's existence, so its a terrible insulator, BUT the color means it absorbs pretty much everything that gets thrown at it; it just dissipates this heat much faster than the white one. So a black one heats up faster, but also cools down faster if allowed to. The white one heats up slower but holds onto heat far better. If you dont use any enclosure or anything, just a straight up PCB sitting in the open, neither color will be faster, but an in-between color will do fine because of the mixed properties. Basically, if you want it to be faster, go for black and add some way to keep the heat there.
To get around resistance variation, you could add a shunt resistor to measure current directly! That way you can make a constant/adjustable power source (with the help of a MOSFET and PWM) with a fixed voltage source.
Insulate the back with some cork board, use clear silicon to glue it down, the heat will go up MUCH faster and retain it's heat alot better Interesting design...like the aluminum backplane that helps spread the heat Would make a GREAT coffee cup heater too Unfortunately the glue that holds the copper to the PCB substrate breaks down at hotter than 130C...repeated use may see permanent damage
About the reflow quality and the solder "balling up" like some sort of metallic foam, what about making some sort of heat spreader plate, that you apply using heat paste that can tolerate up to 300*C, to the PCB. If the plate is rigid enough, and you use thin washers, and use a non-conductive paste, you could build a pretty efficient heatplate that gives even heat. Because I think your "problems" is due to uneven heat.
This is such an excellent project. If you fix all the issues and make a market ready product...my money is on your product. I'll surely get one and do some quick soldering.
Could you do a video on your Altium workflow? How you start a project, what libraries you use, how you name and organize your components, how you define your properties and rules. It would help me so much because I kind of find a better way of doing many thing all the time and then I spend a lot of time reworking the whole project. Id love to see how a "professional" does it. Thanks a lot!
You may be able to avoid that globule forming behavior by suspending another heater above the PCB for radiant/air heating…. Perhaps have the two fold together like a waffle maker?
Black has higher emissivity then white. Black also absorbs more. So if you want to heat it with a heat lamp make it black. If you want to minimize blackbody radiation to get hot you don't want to use black. Look up black bodies. Good video.
This is awesome. i dont do much smd work or make projects anymore but im keen to see how this goes, defs earned my sub :D I attempted to fix a friends gpu and used a hotbed from my old 3d printer to preheat the board so when i blasted the fets with the reflow gun it wouldn't just eat all of the heat. i managed to get the bad fets off without damaging anything so pretty happy about that. unfortunately the card is still dead.
Interesting, I might be tempted to put a batch in my next pcb order. My thoughts I'd be interested to experiment with; Leave off the solder mask. Increase the size of the trace leading out to the connection point. Turn it over and use the smooth aluminum surface side. Place insulation on the underside. ...your thoughts?
you can use a regular single-sided PCB without a heat mask and cover it with a layer of heat-resistant ceramic or silicon. and you may need to try another material rather than copper to get more heat for less current, If you have some chemistry knowledge you can do it by reducing nickel and chrome and deposit it on fiberglass or whatever you want
Black most likely has a higher emissivity than the purple mask. This means that, yes, it will absorb heat more effectively than the purple, but it will also RADIATE heat more effectively. My choice would be white, not black.
I would still prefer the black mask since it's potentially radiating more heat into the product to reflow. That would also make sense why it took longer to heat up.
Carl, i suggest you to check your owon psu for a particular issue. they have a major flaw which i reported to the manufacturer since i had the same one, but they told me they dont see whats wrong with it and ignored me a while later. even after providing videos where i show the issue and that it doesnt exist on any other psu i tested, even the cheap ones. try connecting a LED to it, set the voltage to like 10...20v but limit the current to 20mA. now turn it on, the led will blow or flash very bright and eventually blow! since their current limiting takes forever (20..50ms) to kick in, and no its not related to the output capacitors, its really just slow software. its unusable for anything sensitive, inexcuseable flaw. someone also mentioned this issue in the eevblog forum thread but its buried deep down somewhere. i would get rid of it and get something that just works, like a RD6006(P) or 6012..6018
Fabulous🤩. Suggestion: I don't know whether it make any sense or not but attaching thin sheet of galvanized steel like our stencil with some thermal paste on the hotplate will solve/hide the decolorising of PCB. But why not cooper although its a great conductor of heat but it decolorises so quickly.
6:08 It is NOT your fault. ChipQuik low temp pastes are rubbish. Period. Since you have already ventured out for a preheater, just make it hotter and use SAC305. The things is, they do not make chemicals. They use the same flux chemicals across product lines from a supplier, which means the activation temperature of their 138C pastes is the same of their 217C pastes. Guess what happens if your solder melts before your paste activates. Exactly this! Over the years I've learned the hard way that sticking with industry standard is probably the best choice.
Great progress there Carl! I like the jump I'm evolution you've made here on the reflow hotplate. The one channel board is a good idea, along with the thicker runs. Instead of a black body absorber, have you considered the use of a heat sink plate? If you can cook an egg on a modern CPU (which you can), and you just cooked an egg on camera, then can you reflow on a CPU? (Not quite but...) can you use a thin (like .25mm) sheet (probably need tiny fins directed downward to transfer the heat to the sink without warping and blistering. Coat the flat side of the heat sink with a silicone or Teflon spray (available at hardware stores, used for table saws and other tools). It's non stick (cause I saw that), and high temperature resistant. Just throwing stuff out there to see what sticks or.. doesn't.
I love your videos and have a question. Has anyone tried creating origami-like structures out of flex? If you fold the board in on itself it functions as its own enclosure. This is probably most useful on the micro scale. What is the smallest useful thing you can make?
A good soldering iron with a large tip should be sufficient to solder wires directly to the pads. To make it even easier and quicker work for the soldering iron, preheat the heater on another heater such as one of the already wired up heaters or the heated bed of a 3D printer.
What calculator you aare using for trace widths and what is that simulation software that helps you find resistance called ? Please help My graduation project is related to something similar.
Hi, I am curious wether your actuator pcb designs are feasibly strong enough for making a solid state magnetic stir plate. Like for lab work with a PTFE coated bar magnet for stirring. That would be crazy useful.
Hi Carl! Excellent progress!
To chime in, a black painted PCB will indeed heat up a little slower as a black body is also the most efficient radiator. So if the intent is to radiate energy, black is better, if it is to reflect , then the opposite of black, ie white is better.
Since the purpose of the unit is not merely to heat up itself, but rather to transfer this heat to the PCB you're soldering, this is something you need to consider.
Again, choosing black may not be the obvious solution. Since what you care for is that the frequencies emitted by the UNIT is also absorbed by the reflow solder.
If you can choose the colour of the PCB which is in the bandwidth of IR absorbed by the solder, you should get more efficient results.
I'll leave this to you to experiment with!
Love all your videos!
Is this a micro optimization or does this actually make a meaningful difference?
I thought the same thing. I wonder how much a simple sheet of aluminium foil under the hot-plate could affect the heating time.
@@m.sierra5258 nano-optimization.
@@MarianKeller pico-optimization
@@MrFaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa if the advantage is so minimal that it's not worth having this discussion, then no. I feel like the effort of discussing a topic should be taken into account
Hi, well done. Some comments on the heater. In next revision you could make a pcb without any solder mask and then manually apply high heat enamel spray paint used to paint grills. These can withstand temperatures up to 650 degree Fahrenheit. Then you could make wider PCB tracks in order to lower resistance and thus push more power into it. Good luck with the project!
Thanks! It's a good idea but that tg rating is for the whole stack up.. So the bottom plate dielectric would still be exposed to over temperature
@@CarlBugeja Stack up? If I understand correctly that's for multilayer boards, would a one layer board have the same issue?
I would not care that much about tg anymore since temperatures you are trying to achieve are already beyond specifications :D go ahead
@@xhivo97 the stack up for a one layer IMS board is copper, insulator, aluminium. The Tg value relates to the insulator part. In some cases it is some kind of fr4, others it is ceramic. With a 130c Tg, this is probably FR4.
@@CarlBugeja no soldermask would just mean that the pcb is FR4 and Copper, I don't see the problem if you apply a high heat enamel paint like @lukas kazlauskas said ?
I don’t know if you’ll read this but your process of idea to actual product is so impressive to me. You motivated me to go into this field and now I work somewhere where too can learn how to make my own pcbs. Thank you 🙏🏼
If anything I'd expect the black soldermask to heat up slower/ have a lower equilibrium temperature since it likely has a higher emissivity than the purple.
Actually, i wonder if his temperature readout did compensate for the emissivity of the coating at all. For tests like these, using a real temperature probe on the surface usually is a good idea to verify what you thermal camera or IR probe reads.
The moment I saw the PCB I thought to myself, I hope I will see an Egg frying test and after a few seconds there was it... Keep up the great work Carl, I really like your product design experiments and proof of concept videos.
You need to adjust the emissivity on your IR when pointing it at copper. Recommend you spray a patch with barbeque paint. Assuming e=0.95 when the surface would have a lower e will measure the temperature much lower than it really is.
That's not necessary when the copper is covered by solder mask. The sensor sees only the temps of the solder mask and doesn't care for whats underneath.
People are always confused when it comes to this topic. Only shiny metal surfaces have low emission and thermal imaging works with very long wavelengths IR radiation that has nothing in common with visible light
@@jackmclane1826 And exposed copper is exactly what it has in the outter circle where he says that is much more cooler... I think that is what this guy refers to. And solder mask, which is very reflective at visible spectrum, could be also be very reflective at thermal IR... Or not, but you don't know until you measure it against a very black mate paint and, preferably, a contact physical calibrated thermometer. So you don't know its emissivity and its real temperature. Very cheap multimeters do more precise measurements with cheap thermopairs.
@@vagptt I agree on the thermocouple part... But most polymers are great absorbers/emitters in the far infrared where these thermometers work.
I have to say Carl, when u cracked that egg, I literally fell from my chair laughing! Amazing work man! I am buying this product the moment you make it available! Amazing product! Great video! Excited for the net version as always!
In an enclosure, the black PCB would reach the temp faster, while outside an enclosure, a white pcb might reach it faster. The reason for this is simple, and why people who wear white to stay cool in the summer tend to end up cooking up and away. White has far more bubbles and empty pockets in it due to the lack of pigment or whatever, which makes it a fantastic insulator despite the reflective properties, while black is completely filled up, no place for the temperature to sit and ponder it's existence, so its a terrible insulator, BUT the color means it absorbs pretty much everything that gets thrown at it; it just dissipates this heat much faster than the white one.
So a black one heats up faster, but also cools down faster if allowed to. The white one heats up slower but holds onto heat far better.
If you dont use any enclosure or anything, just a straight up PCB sitting in the open, neither color will be faster, but an in-between color will do fine because of the mixed properties.
Basically, if you want it to be faster, go for black and add some way to keep the heat there.
3:30 The transition from purple to black PCB is so mesmerising.... 🤤
Super cool! Can it make hamburgers? :)
I guess so 😅
Hi electronoobs .... remember me
Could we order one 😋😋?
@@CarlBugeja hey did you recieve the IC's for the previous video, waiting for new updates on that
@@PCBWay oh you're the official one !
mini oven used for kitchen is great for doing this kind of job
I have never seen anyone intentionally make pcb heat up. Intresting innovation!
Looking forward to v3.
Amazing Video Carl. You always motivate me when i watch your videos.
How i have to go make a video too. haha.....keep up the good work Carl
To get around resistance variation, you could add a shunt resistor to measure current directly! That way you can make a constant/adjustable power source (with the help of a MOSFET and PWM) with a fixed voltage source.
Building. Your Own is such a great idea
Insulate the back with some cork board, use clear silicon to glue it down, the heat will go up MUCH faster and retain it's heat alot better
Interesting design...like the aluminum backplane that helps spread the heat
Would make a GREAT coffee cup heater too
Unfortunately the glue that holds the copper to the PCB substrate breaks down at hotter than 130C...repeated use may see permanent damage
The intro is incredible; I did *NOT* see that coming!
About the reflow quality and the solder "balling up" like some sort of metallic foam, what about making some sort of heat spreader plate, that you apply using heat paste that can tolerate up to 300*C, to the PCB. If the plate is rigid enough, and you use thin washers, and use a non-conductive paste, you could build a pretty efficient heatplate that gives even heat.
Because I think your "problems" is due to uneven heat.
Nice video, happy you finally nailed the concept of "ElectricPCBCooker"....pls upload videos more OFTEN......
This is such an excellent project. If you fix all the issues and make a market ready product...my money is on your product. I'll surely get one and do some quick soldering.
I suggest is to use Iron box , the hot plate facing upwards - This is the cheapest method i can suggest.
Continue the series of the PCB motor robot, the wheeled robot was fantastic...good luck....😁
I mean this in as a sincere compliment, but when watching your videos I see "Alex french guy cooking" building shit out of PCBs and its amazing.
I love your style of hacking; your ideas are borderline crazy!
I didn't see earlier videos of this project, but thoroughly enjoyed this one!
so I'm going to build one of these into a big ass Texas belt buckle as a personal heater
Could you do a video on your Altium workflow? How you start a project, what libraries you use, how you name and organize your components, how you define your properties and rules. It would help me so much because I kind of find a better way of doing many thing all the time and then I spend a lot of time reworking the whole project. Id love to see how a "professional" does it.
Thanks a lot!
🍵Coffee warmer, yes. A good reflow plate, hmmm...🔥🚒
Try a DIY vapor phase reflow oven Carl.
NOICE! looking forward to the next interactions.
the thumbnail alone is very pretty...
You should add some insulation underneath the hot plate. It will heat up much quicker if it isn't losing half its heat to the bottom.
hot product!
Can't wait to see V3 !!!
You may be able to avoid that globule forming behavior by suspending another heater above the PCB for radiant/air heating…. Perhaps have the two fold together like a waffle maker?
Black has higher emissivity then white. Black also absorbs more. So if you want to heat it with a heat lamp make it black. If you want to minimize blackbody radiation to get hot you don't want to use black. Look up black bodies. Good video.
what an awesome project! Thanks for sharing
if make distance between coil and iron plate, and used induction for heating.
Looks very much like a heated bed of a delta style 3D printer ...🤔... I think I have an idea I might try 👍
Only if we had teflon solder mask. Nice v2
Maybe for v3 😉
This is awesome. i dont do much smd work or make projects anymore but im keen to see how this goes, defs earned my sub :D I attempted to fix a friends gpu and used a hotbed from my old 3d printer to preheat the board so when i blasted the fets with the reflow gun it wouldn't just eat all of the heat. i managed to get the bad fets off without damaging anything so pretty happy about that. unfortunately the card is still dead.
I was so excited for this Video!!!
Cool video ! Btw, what about an overview of your tools and equipment and a tour of your workshop !
Interesting, I might be tempted to put a batch in my next pcb order.
My thoughts I'd be interested to experiment with;
Leave off the solder mask.
Increase the size of the trace leading out to the connection point.
Turn it over and use the smooth aluminum surface side.
Place insulation on the underside.
...your thoughts?
It looks nicer than having open wire, so it cannot shock people but stray capacitor could shock if it powered by ac voltage
Isn't easyer to add temperature controller to single plate electric cooker?
you can use a regular single-sided PCB without a heat mask and cover it with a layer of heat-resistant ceramic or silicon. and you may need to try another material rather than copper to get more heat for less current, If you have some chemistry knowledge you can do it by reducing nickel and chrome and deposit it on fiberglass or whatever you want
Perfect 👍👌👏
I'm wondering if you should try arranging the heating element into a spiral pattern similar to how heat elements work on an electric stove.
You should do something with inductive heating
Very interesting, well done.
Black most likely has a higher emissivity than the purple mask. This means that, yes, it will absorb heat more effectively than the purple, but it will also RADIATE heat more effectively. My choice would be white, not black.
Super! Thanks you are a giant!
Who else was half expecting him to drop it when carrying it over to the hotplate?
You could try aattaching power wires directly to the pcb with screws and isolating washer on the other side
The holes for the connector are not plated and the bolts would be directly touching the aluminium ore
@@CarlBugeja *facepalm* I havent thought about this ;D Maybe you could use nylon to220 isolating sleeve?
I would still prefer the black mask since it's potentially radiating more heat into the product to reflow. That would also make sense why it took longer to heat up.
how about a constant resistance temperature oven with temperature control
This one is much closer to a product!
I'm working on a pcb trace-based temperature controlled heater as well so i'm interested to see how you do it!
Lmao at people thinking the black board would be better... like what did they think you were leaving it out in the sun to heat up or something? XD
no way… another weeks of waiting 😞 Fingers crossed for success🤞
Carl, i suggest you to check your owon psu for a particular issue.
they have a major flaw which i reported to the manufacturer since i had the same one, but they told me they dont see whats wrong with it and ignored me a while later.
even after providing videos where i show the issue and that it doesnt exist on any other psu i tested, even the cheap ones.
try connecting a LED to it, set the voltage to like 10...20v but limit the current to 20mA.
now turn it on, the led will blow or flash very bright and eventually blow!
since their current limiting takes forever (20..50ms) to kick in, and no its not related to the output capacitors, its really just slow software.
its unusable for anything sensitive, inexcuseable flaw. someone also mentioned this issue in the eevblog forum thread but its buried deep down somewhere.
i would get rid of it and get something that just works, like a RD6006(P) or 6012..6018
Make a PCB linear actuator vibration motor supply 170Hz
a really cool project. Thanks very much! keep it up ✌🏼😁
Bruh that is so cool :)
This is getting really interesting, keep it up 👍 👌
Fabulous🤩.
Suggestion: I don't know whether it make any sense or not but attaching thin sheet of galvanized steel like our stencil with some thermal paste on the hotplate will solve/hide the decolorising of PCB.
But why not cooper although its a great conductor of heat but it decolorises so quickly.
Nothing to say but Hi today Carl. Nice video.
Versi 2 lot more better, very nice, keep it up bro !
6:08 It is NOT your fault. ChipQuik low temp pastes are rubbish. Period. Since you have already ventured out for a preheater, just make it hotter and use SAC305. The things is, they do not make chemicals. They use the same flux chemicals across product lines from a supplier, which means the activation temperature of their 138C pastes is the same of their 217C pastes. Guess what happens if your solder melts before your paste activates. Exactly this! Over the years I've learned the hard way that sticking with industry standard is probably the best choice.
Hello Carl, very nice video. Great Work "!!
Would a ceramic coating like cerakote help with heat transfer?
Incredible work =D Love it!
What did you use for your trace simulations or calculations? I am interested in trying a similar project.
Very impressive! Your egg cracking skills no, but the PCB yes!
hahaha none stick, oh now that's an idea. Teflon coating or something similar.
I'd buy one if available (and not overly expensive)
Great progress there Carl! I like the jump I'm evolution you've made here on the reflow hotplate. The one channel board is a good idea, along with the thicker runs. Instead of a black body absorber, have you considered the use of a heat sink plate? If you can cook an egg on a modern CPU (which you can), and you just cooked an egg on camera, then can you reflow on a CPU? (Not quite but...) can you use a thin (like .25mm) sheet (probably need tiny fins directed downward to transfer the heat to the sink without warping and blistering. Coat the flat side of the heat sink with a silicone or Teflon spray (available at hardware stores, used for table saws and other tools). It's non stick (cause I saw that), and high temperature resistant.
Just throwing stuff out there to see what sticks or.. doesn't.
Color only makes sense if you will heat it with light, then black color absorbs more heat/
I love your videos and have a question. Has anyone tried creating origami-like structures out of flex? If you fold the board in on itself it functions as its own enclosure. This is probably most useful on the micro scale. What is the smallest useful thing you can make?
Use 3 standoffs instead of 4 if you want to eliminate the wobbly stool effect 😉
You ll need to coat that thing with Teflon if you want to cook eggs while you bake your PCBs lol
good way to heat a coffee mug ?
how about a induction neat plate?
Can you make a pcb flatpack oven? 220°c max temp and big enough to fit a burger but collapseable to fit in a camping backpack and powered off 24v-48v
Maybe 😅🍔
You would need a 132W power source though
Have you tried to solder on the other side of the plate? The thermal mass will make it slower, but will you get the same temperature?
Next time use metal bolts to secure the electrical connection!
using metal bolts could cause a short - aluminium is conductive so it will short the two connections
@@CarlBugeja Metal bolt with plastic at the bottom should fix the issue. But then you might use a fuse for safety
Using fibre washers, and a nylon sleeve like you do with a TO-220 Heatsink might give you the isolation and heat tolerance you need?
A good soldering iron with a large tip should be sufficient to solder wires directly to the pads. To make it even easier and quicker work for the soldering iron, preheat the heater on another heater such as one of the already wired up heaters or the heated bed of a 3D printer.
Was there ever a v3? I can't find it
What are using for the inspection camera and screen?
What calculator you aare using for trace widths and what is that simulation software that helps you find resistance called ? Please help My graduation project is related to something similar.
Hi Carl,what is the name of this simulation software?Thank you so much
Where can I buy this project? I like very good!!! (:
No concerns about formaldehyde?
Hi, where do you got the digital microscope (6:11) from? Or at least the name of it because I really like it and I need one
Its*
Link is in my description 👆🙂
Hi, I am curious wether your actuator pcb designs are feasibly strong enough for making a solid state magnetic stir plate. Like for lab work with a PTFE coated bar magnet for stirring. That would be crazy useful.
Why not use flat coils like are used in hard drive motors?
Carl, can't you just change to 160degC TG?
Love from india
Can I have the pcb files so I can make a portable one
I hope you haven't opted for a HASL finish, since it can contain led, and you just ate an egg baked on it.
Hey, I like your videos! How much do you pay for using Altium?