NO, NO, NO !! I'm an engineer who designs chargers for a living, for a fortune 100 company that you know. PLEASE do NOT leave the batteries on the charger when fully charged. When they get to 4.2v, you you start monitoring the current. When the current gets down to 125mA, you must REMOVE the supply. Otherwise, the electrodes begin to accumulate lithium metal on them. This clogs up the internal chemical structures, permanently decreasing their capacity by a small amount. This isn't the biggest problem. The biggest issue is that the lithium will demand to be set free, causing the cell to vent. Violently ! You can die, your house can burn down, and your insurance company will NOT be happy. If you want to keep them topped off, turn on the charger every week or so, and let them drink until the current goes down to 125mA again. Also, don't put more than 2 times the current into the cell, than it's rated capacity, or it will explode. The 18560 you had there must not exceed it's 2.5AH x 2, or 5A charge, no matter how hungry it is. Another thing, if the cell is really, most sincerely dead, with terminal voltage less than 2.7v, you can't safely let it eat 2x it's AH capacity in current. You must do a pre-charge. Limit the current to about 1/10th of it's capacity, or 250mA, until it reaches 2.7v. Then let it rest for about 5 minutes. If it holds the 2.7v, then you can charge it normally. If its voltage falls back, you can repeat this a couple or three times. If it keeps falling, it's done. Toss it. If it tests shorted, drawing max current for 15 seconds, it's done. If the cells heat while charging, to about 20 degrees above ambient, stop charging & let it rest. Only attempt to charge a cell if it's between 0 and 50 degrees C. You're right about single cells in parallel. They can be treated as one big cell. Each cell in a series string MUST be monitored individually while charging, to make sure they don't climb above 4.2v. If any do, charging must stop & the pack is unbalanced. Better chargers will try & match each cell in a string, to improve pack performance. The cells MUST be monitored individually during discharge. If ANY cells in a string falls below 2.7V, the pack MUST be considered depleted. If you discharge any string, such that a cell reaches 0v, the other cells will try & force current through it backwards. It will act as a load, and explode with great robustness. OK, that's at least $10k worth of consulting an analysis in engineering costs, free for you and your readers. Please heed my information, because I REALLY know whereof I speak. I'm not being an over cautious alarmist, despite what flamers may tell you. I have witnessed detonations in person. Please don't skip these instructions. Cheers, Randy
It Is good to hear from an expert, almost all of those facts of charging lithium cell arrangements , I had to figer out for myself, throug experiments AND some times bad experiences.
Anybody know if BMS balance cells during charging, discharging, and charging plus discharging at the same time? My Daly brand BMS claims that it does, but it was described like it was written in chinese language then ran it through google translate.
@@doverstreet4319 I'm no engineer, but I've seen both yes and no. I mean phones are used while being charged. Manual kinda says it does too with the common port for charge and load, but the whole manual's in one paragraph using comma as a period.
Mr Garcia, you obviously have lots of hands-on experience charging lithium battery. The important details left out are: Find those switching regulators which: - limit the voltage to some adjustable value (4.2 volt for 1 cell, 12.6 volt for 3 cells) - limit the current to some value specified in Amps - when current limit is hit, must not go in shut down mode, like most computer power supply do ; instead, it must continuously adjust the voltage to keep the current at the limit In other word, the power supply will start at the same low voltage as the battery discharge state. As the battery is charging, the voltage will raise while the current will remain at the fixed maximum allowed. When the voltage reach 4.2 volt, the power supply automatically enter in the second mode of operation, which is regulating the current to maintain that fixed 4.2 volt. The battery is still charging when reaching 4.2 volt, but it consume less and less current. It is really the battery that "decide" how much current it want, the power supply just try to keep the voltage at 4.2 volt and provide as much current as the battery want to keep that voltage. Now, to speed up charging, we want to provide a voltage slightly higher than 4.2 volt (or 12.6 volt for 3 cells). The extra voltage is provided to counter act the loss in the following components: - loss in wires - loss in connectors - loss in batteries The loss in wire can be decreased by using thicker wires. But bigger wires are more rigid, less flexible and get damaged faster from constant flexing. Typical cable in USB charger with a current of 1 amp waste from 0.1 to 1 volt. The loss in connector is often in the same range of 0.1 to 1 volt. Even when the exposed metal on the connector appear shiny yellow, imitating the look of gold, they may still waste part of the energy, which imply absorbing part of the voltage. Those bad quality connector become warm to the touch. The battery itself, particularly as they age, waste a portion of the charging energy. An old battery that waste part of the charging energy is exactly equivalent to a very good battery with a small resistor added in series ; both located physically inside the batteries. Let's take a real example : suppose the battery has an internal resistance of 1 ohm and we provide 1 amp of current. The ohm law allow to find the voltage across a resistor: V = RI = 1 ohm * 1 Amp = 1 volt The battery itself takes from 3 volt to 4.2 volt as it charge, and the internal resistance take 1 volt. We can also find how much energy is wasted by the internal resistance as follow: P = VI = 1 volt * 1 Amp = 1 watt Suppose that the battery charge level started at 3 volt and is now at 4 volt. Our charger is still pushing 1 amp since we are still below 4.2 volt. The total energy provided by the charger is: P = VI = 4 volt * 1 Amp = 4 watt The energy wasted by the internal resistance (assuming 1 ohm) is: 1 Watt, as calculated above Brief, 3 watts are used to charge the battery and 1 watt wasted as heat All the long text above is to explain what make a battery to become hot during charging. The lithium battery are strong when delivering high current, but they easily get damaged by silly little thing such as overcharging them or discharging them too much. All lithium battery designed by an company, not just professionals equipment, but every device (even the cheapest Chinese clone and the cheapest child toy) include a temperature sensor which is used during charging. The charger inside your cell phone does the following test: - refuse to charge if temperature already too high - start in fixed current mode, with voltage increasing slowly - monitor for "fast" temperature change with high precision (down to 0.1 degree Celsius or about 1.5 F) and stop charging if increase "fast" - while charging, stop if temperature exceed some threshold - when the voltage reach a limit, switch to fix voltage (the current is decreasing slowly) The end of charge is determined by: - current below a fix value while voltage already at 4.2 volt (for example) - temperature suddenly raise at any time during charging When the battery get old, it may accept less total energy and may decrease the maximum voltage to a value below 4.2 volt. By monitoring the temperature raise with high precision, the charger can stop charging and avoid damaging the battery. This precise temperature monitoring technique is what allowed old battery to keep working for many months after the voltage started to drop. Somebody got a patent for that and that company probably still get large amount of royalty for allowing all of us to use the same cell phone with the original battery for a few years. The battery exploding in recent Samsung cell phone is probably caused by an engineer who wasn't not very clever. He didn't read the patent explaining how to charge a lithium battery correctly and use the temperature sensor in a smart way.
I have a question you might know the answe to and it would be very appreciated if you would answer me :) So i wanna make a 24 volt 5s battery and i man planning on buying this BMS for it: www.banggood.com/PCB-BMS-6S-15A-24V-Battery-Protection-Board-For-18650-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery-Cell-p-1162772.html?p=4G190320067484201803&cur_warehouse=CN And just using a 24 volt wall charger to charge it. now i am wondering how i would know when the battery is at full capacity, Would i have to messure the voltage? Thanks in advance, - Oliver
What a refreshing change on Internet to find advice from somebody who knows what he's talking about. Believe me Jehucarcia, there are SO many who DON"T but that doesn't stop 'em! Thank you....Love the dogs...Only once a week to the park? Send me the air tickets..I'll do it for the rest of the week and get further training from you while I'm there. Thanks and good luck from Brexit land.
Always love watching your videos. One thing I wanted to point out, when you explained series charging, you said two batteries in series are not 4.2, they are 7.4, then you add another 4.2 volts for a third battery. People just learning how to do this don't understand or may not know that nominal voltage for these batteries is 3.7. If the math doesn't add up it might confuse them. Just wanted to let you know. Thanks
Things like this video is what I’m talking about in my last comment …I learn something every time I re watch one of your videos ..learning about batteries is just my thing now thanks to you …🔋🔋🐐🐐🙌🏽🙌🏽👑👑
It's nice to know that multi-parallel-cell lithium packs don't drift much. For anyone wondering, it may be because the 33 parallel cells each have a different internal series resistance (which usually causes voltage drift), but as such a large number of cells are used, the resistance averages out to a common number (gaussian resistance distribution; one has a very high resistance, other has a very low one and the rest are in between), and each series group gets a similar resistance, making the pack accept the same charge. And, as example RC Packs are usually 1P (1 parallel cell), the resistance between cells is uneven, thus requiring leveling.
Hello "J". Listen I had attended a Vocational H.S. and retired from the medical/medicine field and am able to follow, comprehend, technological trends and tech-info. I appreciate you willing to share with others what comes naturally to you. I suggest that, if you have something you want to share with an audience that may be unfamiliar/familiar, you write down exactly what you want to cover so that you don't bounce from one coincidence to another. Know your audience i.e. knowledgeable or novice. It gets a little schizo following your presentation: i.e. cover chargers-types-appearance-identify-connections-do's,don'ts-etc. Then cover batteries using the same approach. Avoid introducing terms, Sampo,? unless you initially introduce the item previously. Thank you would like to hear more.
He also said you gonna turn up the supply to 4.2v in order to charge at 7.4v pack, which is wrong. And he should have also added that this won't be a safe way to charge batteries in series! Different internal resistance so some will charge faster than others leading to overcharge (fire)
Not quite the detail I was expecting as charging lithium cells can be a mine field. It's not quite as simple as hooking an 18650 to a wall wart, which some folk my mis-interpret. You really need a control circuit: TP4056 boards are good for testing this, and are abundant on eBay. They monitor the battery voltage and regulate current into the battery depending on charge state. Also bare lithium batteries without protection circuitry built in should not be charged unattended, cos if over charge occurs...well lithium fires are a bitch to put out!
My buck converter output 16.3v from my 150W solar panel input of approximately 20V, I expected my 4S setup to charge up to 16.8V but usually stopped at 16.3V which is the buck converter output voltage. Meaning lithium battery can not charge beyond buck converter set output voltage. The only protection I have on the setup is a Chinese made BMS which would have let the battery charge up to 16.8V if not for the buck converter setting. It appears to be a good charger for lithium batteries.
This is really excellent and filled in a few blanks. I now have upgraded a couple of drill to Lithium. An converted the constant voltage charger to cater for 2, 3 and 5 cells battery packs. As this is the most comment electric drill battery size! Works perfect
I am charging ALL my cells from solar. From the solar panels into step down converter. My cell packs are 21V and I have Step down set at 20.5V. Each cell has it's own protection circuit so will never shut off a cell. The series won't be broken. The series packs are 5 x 4.2V cells in series to give me 21V per pack. I then have 12 x packs in parrallel and then out to another step down converter to 12.6V for my home lighting. It is the prototype battery for my up coming TTPW (Tesla Type Power Wall). Videos on my other channel.
You are a blessing it pays to watch over and over your videos we are always picking up little nuggets hear and there some of us it takes a lot of repetition to learn and finally sink in thanks for your patience because of you we are up grading from L16 lead batteries to Li-ion John Morin in Milo, Maine 09-03 2017
Nice Video, just a small correction: LiPo batteries are called LiPo not because they have a Polymere Casing, but because they contain an Electrolyte based on Polymeres, instead of a classical liquid Electrolyte found for example in your 18650 cylindrical batteries. I study that stuff at university.
thank-you sir, a very good series to make some practical battery xp, it doesn't matter how much you read there are always some questions you basically resolved much of them, i have a request to make , i know its too late but if you make a frequency analysis of various chargers including expensive balance chargers, it will really help many people wanting a in depth explanation.
I would add to the many good comments and tips posted already, BMS are pretty cheap now, esp. for a DIY'er and if you can't attend and monitor charging, a BMS can add the safety you need with lithium batts cutting the power when it's set V is reached. some also can set a flat timer for charging
OK,,I BOUGHT YOUR U1XP12,,IT HAS 2 CABLES COMING OUT OF IT..WHAT PINS DO YOU USE TO CHARGE IT? 2 YOUR MONITOR YOU SHOW ON THE VIDEO FOR THIS U1XP12 DOES NOT SHOW HOW TO HOOK UP YOU BMS? CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT PINS TO ADD A 2 WATT WALL WART CHARGER..POS/NEG PINS? VERY FRUSTRATING THERE WAS NO WIRE DIAGRAM FOR THESE BATTERIES. I REACHED OUT TO YOUR TEAM AND GOT NO INFO.. CAN YOU DO A VIDEO FOR THE U1XP12 BATTERY,HOW TO ACCESS THE WIRES? THANK YOU
Hey great video. I need to charge a 10 cell 18650 battery pack. How can I modify or use a cheap 24 volt laptop charger that pushes 6 amps to charge the pack. The pack already has a BMS so i dont have to worry about overcharging.... any ideas?!
I am using chev. Volt batteries to power my golf cars. I would like to use the chargers that come with the cars .Is this power supply that you are talking about the way to keep from over charging my battery? We are using 2. 48 volt packs wired parallel And then to the car. My charger can put out about 20amp at 57 volts, and the goes down as the batteries go up. If this is the way to go ,do you have specific power supply you would recommend for this application.
5:35 4.2x2 = 7.4? I think it's 8.4 ..... I'm new to this and I wanna learn more about setting up batteries please lemme know if voltage drops in series
What charger are you now using for your Bus? You say you use one of those power regulators for charging your 12 volt battery. I don't see where these are able to take in your pack voltage then derate to 12 volts? I see they take 120 AC volts. Do they also take 120 DC volts that you can then derate to 12 volts?
Thanks for the informative video! So what do I need to buy to make a charger for 18v 18amph battery? (I'M trying to charge 2 m18 9ah milwalkee batteries in parallel without using the milwalkee single battery charger)
@jehugarcia Please correct me if I'm wrong. So the batteries need to be almost identical in voltage. The capacity doesn't matter. When charging them in series, the input voltage must be whatever the total voltage is. So if I'm charging two 18650's in series, then the input voltage must be a constant 8.400v using a buck, SEPIC, or boost converter or simply a DC to DC converter. I'm talking about 18650 or 26650 batteries, NOT LiPo batteries.
Mark II if your cells have different capacity they must balanced either at the top or at the bottom. The smallest cell will always reach top and bottom voltage first therefore it will be either overcharged or overdischarged. So cells with different capacities can be used but you'd have to adjust your end voltages, top or bottom depending where you balanced them at.
So they need to be both identical in voltages. They are almost identical batteries. So I can either charge them to a desired top voltage of let's say 4.000v, or discharge them to somewhere near 3.00v. Then I can put them in series 2S, 3S, whatever, and when I go to charge them, they should charge and discharge at together. I didn't do that yesterday. The one reached 4.208v, and the other was something like 4.187v, when I tried to charge them in series. This isn't because regardless if I ordered 2S BMS modules from china, I don't want to use a BMS. I'm making a mailbox light type post for my father's mailbox, and I don't want to have to worry about all this BMS crap. So today I put them in parallel, because from what I think I know, they should balance themselves out. So I'm watching the video you did.. What is Battery Balancing? Quick tip #5 So it seems they just need to be almost identical in voltage either near fully charged, or near fully discharged. Then I can use them in series, charging and discharging. I also noticed with my box mod when I put the two batteries that are used in my box mod (2S Series), the charger tells me they're the same voltage. So that's really good, and proves what you said about the fact that they will discharge together, and charge together, as long as they're almost identical in voltage. Over the years, I've learned a great deal about Lithium type batteries (18650, 26650 batteries mainly). Then you come along, and say they can be charged and discharged in series. Which I'm learning, is 100% correct.
For your 12v Samba You have 3 batteries in a series and 33x3 wired in parallel to get the most Ah, correct? Then you wire the positive on the series to the positive on the 33 cell in parallel. Then you wire the negative to on the series the negative on the 33 cell in parallel, correct???
I have 2 lifePO4 12v 8Ah I bought the first of this month. I bought a charge you have to set type of battery number of cells, voltage, etc. I tried to see the charger work. When I hook either battery up and try to start the charge I get a cell warning on both and no charge. My other charger gives me a cell balance problem. What do you think? I just got one of the Miady 20ah batteries today. The charger is at my office so haven’t had a chance to try it with either charger.
I bought China 18650 5000aH only because i was able to get them for .40 cents each. I know they are not 5000ah but the work pretty good. I made a 6s 22c battery and I had no powering a 3000w inverter and running a skilsaw off of it problem. If they are actually 1.5 aH are they still a good battery?
hiii jahu... i need a battery of power 1kw... can u pls tell me the arrangement and the num of batteries required and about the other accessories or equipment i required
Well you forgot to mention that impedance does increase if you actually left the charger permanently connected to the battery as you said. Now sure how familiar you are with gauging and impedance track. I use to work for TI in the BMS group.
I have a e-bike battery it’s lithium ion it has 36 cells in it they’re packed in groups of six I believe one of the groups of six got disconnected, the weld connection broke so that group of six is lower voltage than the rest now the entire thing won't charge can I simply just re-weld it to the rest of them and charge it back up to normal or do I have to take them out separately to charge them up fully to match and then reconnect them??
How about charging a 3s or 4s battery pack using a desktop computer PSU? They're relatively cheap when on sale ($20-$30) and the 12v rail produces 35 amps. I figured you could use a bunch of imax b6 or another balance charger and connect them all in parallel with that 12v line. I've seen your open source balance charger but would like to know more about it.
I have a question. Was looking for a video on direction in how to use a 1s to 6s TB6 Hobby charger/ Balancer to balance a 60v 40AH Lithium Ion battery pack in my Electric scooter. Is there an adapter I need that will support a 16s? Do i have to break my battery down into 3 sections? Do i need to buy a different, more expensive balance charger?? Is there a way without doing any of the mentioned above?? Your videos are very descriptive, so I chose to ask you this question. Thank you, Anyone.... for a response.
Hi, thank you for your video. I have a similar situation and a question on battery charging. I plan to charge my 72v 100AH Li-ion battery bank using a diesel generator which provides a regulated DC 72v 70A. Can I connect it directly to my battery bank, or do i need to buy some kind of a charge controller? If yes, would a solar charge controller would do the job, or I need some other controller? best regards!
Hi Jehu, Thank you for the video, lots of fun! I understand the principle of slowly charging batteries for safety but I'm not sure about your charging. How are you regulating charging current which is a very important thing to do? Also have you checked individual cells to see if they balance out to relatively the same final voltage? How does Tesla, for example, charge a string of series batteries, is there concern for individual battery hogging? Also do they current limit? Thanks for your time, Rob
As i saw in your video about the tesla wall, u used different batteries in it, so does it metter when they are connected in series or parallel for charging them and will it help the batteries to due quicklier?
Do you have a video on how to build a 12v lithium battery pack to replace a 12v sla battery in a battery booster? I have a couple boosters with dead batteries and a couple dozen 18650 cells laying around. Thanks.
so how many modules if around 600 watts do you have. So you charge each module individually or you have a bigger charger. When your module is fully charge is around 12.3 V, when is discharge is around 9 is this right
hey..a thought...like an alternator on regular car, would having a solar panels, and a windmill system embedded in the car help to recharge batteries while on the move?
Great man!! I need some suggestions, As I'm building a motorcycle with a 72V BLDC motor. How much voltage is enough for battery pack? I'm also using a DC-DC Converter.
And I'm using battery cell array consisting of 300 cells which is 3.7V and 2.6amps. I couldn't decide whether arrange it mostly in series and increase its voltage or arrange it in parallel and increase its amps?
is it possible to charge a 7.4v (18650 x 2 series) DIY battery with a standard 5V USB charger? Im trying to make a portable powered 12v fan run off my 7.4v DIY battery but can't seem to figure out how I can charge the pack through USB as id like to 3d print a box and keep everything enclosed in it (Battery, 2s board, fan, USB charge port and anything else needed). THANKS FOR ANY INFO!
Hi jehugarcia: I am getting things together for a powerwall as in my area in Michigan I lose power in the home 2-6 times a year. I want a way to charge the pack and would like your recommendations on a way to charge it. Solar is not in the near future due to cost and efficiency here. What I would like to do if possible is run a small gasoline engine/alternator combo but have read this may be a problem getting them topped off. Can I power a solar charger with the engine /alt that may be the answer? I would really appreciate it if you could give me your recommendations for a solution to this question. I thought I saw a video of an earlier Samba trip your took and used a similar charger but didn't see what I could do to assemble one. Thank you for your solutions and videos answered on the tube. Of course I would need details as this stuff is all new to me.
well out of all the random things there you did show us power supplies but I was just kind of wondering what about regular old batteries... like an Energizer lithium that says not rechargeable is there a way to stick charge back into that
Hi I have a question, I have an electric scooter with a power of 36v 1000w, I want to use a Lifepo4 3.2v 2000mah battery, it is possible to use them in an electric scooter with such a power, Jirka volf
So... If I want to charge 3 cells connected in series and another 3 cells (same series connection) with the 2 groups connected in parallel, and if each cell can except 1.5 amps, how many amps would I need to charge all 6 cells?
How much voltage is your battery supplier for the samba and how much voltage the motor works with? I have the same question for the amps as well... pls answer me them.
Ok I’m in the middle of a project and have a question... my battery’s are 3.7v 5800mAh x6 .. I have a 6s pack with a 6s 15a BMS protection board to power my project... so I have a total of 22.2v... now here is my question... I would like to add a charging port and make it a Micro USB plug .... I was thanking of using a TP4056 4.2v 3A charger... would that work ??
Hi, I have one question, I made 5 cells in parallel and 3 groups in series to be 12v pack and I agree with you to be not use the BMS to charge my pack so should I charge it with 12.2v cv/cc power supply or separate to 3 of 4.2v cv/cc power supply ? thank you.
In my 48v battery-bank I’m using 3.2v I have 13 PCs at 280Ah and I’ve got 4 PCs 3.2v at 200Ah can I run in parallel 2 of the 3.2v 200Ah = 3.2v 400Ah can I use 2 - 3.2v 400Ah in my battery bank of 280Ah & if so the best place to put the ? As the the main - & + or as the Batteries 7 & 8 in the middle of the bank ? But their 120Ah over the 280Ah is it better for all the life to just use the 3.2v 200Ah as is ? So the 280Ah are only 80Ah more ?
Jehu, I just found on the street a Ford Go battery pack and seems to be working fine. The problem is I don't know how to charge it. It has a connector for a wall power supply but no idea of what kind of voltage has to be. Do you have any idea of that? Thanks
hi Jehu! help me out. If i have a battery pack of 3s33p around of 50ah, what is the max amp i can put to it? and send a voltage of 11.1. thanks in advance. And your channel is awesome
VERY Informative! I'm planning to convert my NiCd batteries for my old Milwaukee 6024 drill. Thinking, 6 in series will give me a total of 21Ah with a max of 18-20v through a voltage regulator and a low threshold cut off circuit around 3.4 before they become unstable. Possibly may use a thermistor and voltage display panel(just for the curious folks). What do you think? May even be able to squeeze more in the old case and bring the Ah up. Thanks.
Its pretty good explained but a few details is missing... What about if my output is 16V and my batteries that are connected in series ends up on 16,8V? Can that be any dangerous? Or does it just mean that the batteries will never be fully charged? Or what actually happens? And what about amps? Does that even matter at all? Or is it only the volt that i should care about??? Please, either reply to this thread or make a new video and explain more details... I have a bunch of batteries that looks like those small green batteries that you just showed. I got them from a laptop battery but im not sure if its same voltage in my battery as in your battery. The voltage is not displayed on the battery itself... So is it same voltage for all batteries that looks like this? Or how does that work? How do i know how much voltage my battery will need?
Thank you for this video. I just toke 9 pieces 18560 batteries from my Dell laptop. All batteries are dead: 0,0 volt. All tricks I found on RUclips, I tried in order to get them running. Unfortunately without any result. I fear that I have to throw them away, or you you have a last advise ???? Jan, from the Netherlands
Screw all that lol where can i buy one of your batteries 24v 30ah send me a link need it for my lead acid skateboard trying to convert to lithium need a smaller lighter alternative please help
Thanks for your great postings. Im in Australia. I’m going to install 12v 240v 3000w Inverter with 12v 100ah Lithium Battery in my car. I’m trying to find a way to charge the Lithium Battery from 12v (120w) Lighter Port on dashboard directly in my car without connecting with my car battery if possible. Can you tell me what kind of stuffs that i need to buy from like Amazon?
1. You can not charge battery with voltage regulator which only work on constant voltage mode. it still can over current and damage battery 2. You can't just parallel battery for charge. 2-battery can have voltage difference that lead to high current flow and damage battery 3. You can't just series cell and charger you need to balance these cell using balance charger or BMS . 4. Note that you should not use charging current more than 1C. it can shorten battery life. 5. for who ever plan to do this just buy programmable charger which you can charge many battery type and select suitable charging voltage and current for each battery.
@@MrSummitville if you are normal person you can do. It's your right and risk. but if you are engineer or youtuber that teacher other without real knowledge, you can't you should have responsible for society.
What about current control? Discharged cell is almost like a short, so if the power source is capable of 10A it will push it into cell, cell will overheat and explode. But that module isnt, it will overheat and thermal shut-down will occur, then cool down, turn on again, etc. So no current control is bad. Pay extra 1$ and you will get similar module that is capable of delivering adjustable constant current and constant voltage, so everything we need for battery charging.
no lithium batteries obviously do not store elecrtrical energy just like every other type of battery in the world, Please stop posting stupid comments or I will label you an idiot and bann you from my channel.
9:51 so you charge at 12V, but at what amps? Seems using 0.5-1.0 amps would be painfully slow... What's the recommended ratio of charging amp to total Ah/capacity?
I know it's been a while since you put this up but I have a question. I have a tp4056 single cell charger but I have made a 3s3p module. How can I set it up to charge as a 9p module and function as a 3s3p module without having to rewire it every time I charge it?
Now this is actually very helpful, knowing the potential difference between two points and how they interact with each other will help me avoid dangers. this explanation expanded my knowledge on the topic, tho we have to read R Rho's comment too it seems he has pointed interesting things out that might actually be dangerous.
PARK! Let's go to the PARK! Nice vid... good coverage of the basics of charging cells and packs. Thanks. 4.2 + 4.2 = 8.6. Edit needed you said 7.6. Love the short commercials. Nice & short not obtrusive.
I would like to ask. Normally 18650 is max at 4.2 volts.and now i got bms for 26s config. Now how can i under volt them charging them at 4volts. Should i supply 102v and bms will balance them at 4v each cell or some cell will be 4.2 and some cell are lower
Some of the batteries will take way longer than they should to charge, because the bms isn't smart enough to realize it isn't going to be able to top out the batteries at 4. 2 so you may actually be running more cycles on the batteries
NO, NO, NO !!
I'm an engineer who designs chargers for a living, for a fortune 100 company that you know.
PLEASE do NOT leave the batteries on the charger when fully charged. When they get to 4.2v, you you start monitoring the current. When the current gets down to 125mA, you must REMOVE the supply. Otherwise, the electrodes begin to accumulate lithium metal on them. This clogs up the internal chemical structures, permanently decreasing their capacity by a small amount. This isn't the biggest problem. The biggest issue is that the lithium will demand to be set free, causing the cell to vent. Violently ! You can die, your house can burn down, and your insurance company will NOT be happy.
If you want to keep them topped off, turn on the charger every week or so, and let them drink until the current goes down to 125mA again.
Also, don't put more than 2 times the current into the cell, than it's rated capacity, or it will explode. The 18560 you had there must not exceed it's 2.5AH x 2, or 5A charge, no matter how hungry it is.
Another thing, if the cell is really, most sincerely dead, with terminal voltage less than 2.7v, you can't safely let it eat 2x it's AH capacity in current. You must do a pre-charge. Limit the current to about 1/10th of it's capacity, or 250mA, until it reaches 2.7v. Then let it rest for about 5 minutes. If it holds the 2.7v, then you can charge it normally. If its voltage falls back, you can repeat this a couple or three times. If it keeps falling, it's done. Toss it. If it tests shorted, drawing max current for 15 seconds, it's done. If the cells heat while charging, to about 20 degrees above ambient, stop charging & let it rest. Only attempt to charge a cell if it's between 0 and 50 degrees C.
You're right about single cells in parallel. They can be treated as one big cell.
Each cell in a series string MUST be monitored individually while charging, to make sure they don't climb above 4.2v. If any do, charging must stop & the pack is unbalanced. Better chargers will try & match each cell in a string, to improve pack performance.
The cells MUST be monitored individually during discharge. If ANY cells in a string falls below 2.7V, the pack MUST be considered depleted. If you discharge any string, such that a cell reaches 0v, the other cells will try & force current through it backwards. It will act as a load, and explode with great robustness.
OK, that's at least $10k worth of consulting an analysis in engineering costs, free for you and your readers. Please heed my information, because I REALLY know whereof I speak. I'm not being an over cautious alarmist, despite what flamers may tell you. I have witnessed detonations in person. Please don't skip these instructions.
Cheers,
Randy
It Is good to hear from an expert, almost all of those facts of charging lithium cell arrangements , I had to figer out for myself, throug experiments AND some times bad experiences.
So BMS would do the job 🤔
Anybody know if BMS balance cells during charging, discharging, and charging plus discharging at the same time? My Daly brand BMS claims that it does, but it was described like it was written in chinese language then ran it through google translate.
@@GTari97 nope bruh..its not possible... One thing happens at a time.. either charge or discharge...not both on same time
@@doverstreet4319 I'm no engineer, but I've seen both yes and no. I mean phones are used while being charged. Manual kinda says it does too with the common port for charge and load, but the whole manual's in one paragraph using comma as a period.
Mr Garcia, you obviously have lots of hands-on experience charging lithium battery. The important details left out are:
Find those switching regulators which:
- limit the voltage to some adjustable value (4.2 volt for 1 cell, 12.6 volt for 3 cells)
- limit the current to some value specified in Amps
- when current limit is hit, must not go in shut down mode, like most computer power supply do ; instead, it must continuously adjust the voltage to keep the current at the limit
In other word, the power supply will start at the same low voltage as the battery discharge state. As the battery is charging, the voltage will raise while the current will remain at the fixed maximum allowed.
When the voltage reach 4.2 volt, the power supply automatically enter in the second mode of operation, which is regulating the current to maintain that fixed 4.2 volt.
The battery is still charging when reaching 4.2 volt, but it consume less and less current. It is really the battery that "decide" how much current it want, the power supply just try to keep the voltage at 4.2 volt and provide as much current as the battery want to keep that voltage.
Now, to speed up charging, we want to provide a voltage slightly higher than 4.2 volt (or 12.6 volt for 3 cells). The extra voltage is provided to counter act the loss in the following components:
- loss in wires
- loss in connectors
- loss in batteries
The loss in wire can be decreased by using thicker wires. But bigger wires are more rigid, less flexible and get damaged faster from constant flexing. Typical cable in USB charger with a current of 1 amp waste from 0.1 to 1 volt.
The loss in connector is often in the same range of 0.1 to 1 volt. Even when the exposed metal on the connector appear shiny yellow, imitating the look of gold, they may still waste part of the energy, which imply absorbing part of the voltage. Those bad quality connector become warm to the touch.
The battery itself, particularly as they age, waste a portion of the charging energy. An old battery that waste part of the charging energy is exactly equivalent to a very good battery with a small resistor added in series ; both located physically inside the batteries.
Let's take a real example : suppose the battery has an internal resistance of 1 ohm and we provide 1 amp of current. The ohm law allow to find the voltage across a resistor:
V = RI = 1 ohm * 1 Amp = 1 volt
The battery itself takes from 3 volt to 4.2 volt as it charge, and the internal resistance take 1 volt.
We can also find how much energy is wasted by the internal resistance as follow:
P = VI = 1 volt * 1 Amp = 1 watt
Suppose that the battery charge level started at 3 volt and is now at 4 volt. Our charger is still pushing 1 amp since we are still below 4.2 volt. The total energy provided by the charger is:
P = VI = 4 volt * 1 Amp = 4 watt
The energy wasted by the internal resistance (assuming 1 ohm) is:
1 Watt, as calculated above
Brief, 3 watts are used to charge the battery and 1 watt wasted as heat
All the long text above is to explain what make a battery to become hot during charging. The lithium battery are strong when delivering high current, but they easily get damaged by silly little thing such as overcharging them or discharging them too much.
All lithium battery designed by an company, not just professionals equipment, but every device (even the cheapest Chinese clone and the cheapest child toy) include a temperature sensor which is used during charging.
The charger inside your cell phone does the following test:
- refuse to charge if temperature already too high
- start in fixed current mode, with voltage increasing slowly
- monitor for "fast" temperature change with high precision (down to 0.1 degree Celsius or about 1.5 F) and stop charging if increase "fast"
- while charging, stop if temperature exceed some threshold
- when the voltage reach a limit, switch to fix voltage (the current is decreasing slowly)
The end of charge is determined by:
- current below a fix value while voltage already at 4.2 volt (for example)
- temperature suddenly raise at any time during charging
When the battery get old, it may accept less total energy and may decrease the maximum voltage to a value below 4.2 volt. By monitoring the temperature raise with high precision, the charger can stop charging and avoid damaging the battery.
This precise temperature monitoring technique is what allowed old battery to keep working for many months after the voltage started to drop. Somebody got a patent for that and that company probably still get large amount of royalty for allowing all of us to use the same cell phone with the original battery for a few years.
The battery exploding in recent Samsung cell phone is probably caused by an engineer who wasn't not very clever. He didn't read the patent explaining how to charge a lithium battery correctly and use the temperature sensor in a smart way.
Thanks for a very good explanation. It helped a lot.
make a video How to charge them properly
HA!!! JUST A LITTLE LEFT OUT HUH!!???? JUST SAYING OLD ONE LEGGED JOSEPH T RETIRED NAVY
I have a question you might know the answe to and it would be very appreciated if you would answer me :)
So i wanna make a 24 volt 5s battery and i man planning on buying this BMS for it: www.banggood.com/PCB-BMS-6S-15A-24V-Battery-Protection-Board-For-18650-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery-Cell-p-1162772.html?p=4G190320067484201803&cur_warehouse=CN
And just using a 24 volt wall charger to charge it. now i am wondering how i would know when the battery is at full capacity, Would i have to messure the voltage?
Thanks in advance,
- Oliver
Sir, your explanation covers the basics of electronics in simplest way. Thanks a lot now i can remember it forever.🙂
What a refreshing change on Internet to find advice from somebody who knows what he's talking about. Believe me Jehucarcia, there are SO many who DON"T but that doesn't stop 'em!
Thank you....Love the dogs...Only once a week to the park? Send me the air tickets..I'll do it for the rest of the week and get further training from you while I'm there.
Thanks and good luck from Brexit land.
Always love watching your videos. One thing I wanted to point out, when you explained series charging, you said two batteries in series are not 4.2, they are 7.4, then you add another 4.2 volts for a third battery. People just learning how to do this don't understand or may not know that nominal voltage for these batteries is 3.7. If the math doesn't add up it might confuse them. Just wanted to let you know. Thanks
Didn't realize how old this video was. I am thoroughly enjoying watching.
I know this is an older video but it's finding me perfectly on my path of learning electronics and batteries. Thank you!
Things like this video is what I’m talking about in my last comment …I learn something every time I re watch one of your videos ..learning about batteries is just my thing now thanks to you …🔋🔋🐐🐐🙌🏽🙌🏽👑👑
It's nice to know that multi-parallel-cell lithium packs don't drift much. For anyone wondering, it may be because the 33 parallel cells each have a different internal series resistance (which usually causes voltage drift), but as such a large number of cells are used, the resistance averages out to a common number (gaussian resistance distribution; one has a very high resistance, other has a very low one and the rest are in between), and each series group gets a similar resistance, making the pack accept the same charge. And, as example RC Packs are usually 1P (1 parallel cell), the resistance between cells is uneven, thus requiring leveling.
Hello "J". Listen I had attended a Vocational H.S. and retired from the medical/medicine field and am able to follow, comprehend, technological trends and tech-info. I appreciate you willing to share with others what comes naturally to you. I suggest that, if you have something you want to share with an audience that may be unfamiliar/familiar, you write down exactly what you want to cover so that you don't bounce from one coincidence to another. Know your audience i.e. knowledgeable or novice. It gets a little schizo following your presentation: i.e. cover chargers-types-appearance-identify-connections-do's,don'ts-etc. Then cover batteries using the same approach. Avoid introducing terms, Sampo,? unless you initially introduce the item previously. Thank you would like to hear more.
5:22 I know someone has probably already said this but 4.2v * 2 = 8.4v dude :)
You're a math genius
7.4v is the nominal voltage, 8.4v is the charging voltage
He mean nominal voltage
He also said you gonna turn up the supply to 4.2v in order to charge at 7.4v pack, which is wrong. And he should have also added that this won't be a safe way to charge batteries in series! Different internal resistance so some will charge faster than others leading to overcharge (fire)
I have 11.7 or 11.1 V 3cell Lipos... SO FUCK ALL OF YOU!
Not quite the detail I was expecting as charging lithium cells can be a mine field. It's not quite as simple as hooking an 18650 to a wall wart, which some folk my mis-interpret. You really need a control circuit: TP4056 boards are good for testing this, and are abundant on eBay. They monitor the battery voltage and regulate current into the battery depending on charge state. Also bare lithium batteries without protection circuitry built in should not be charged unattended, cos if over charge occurs...well lithium fires are a bitch to put out!
Thanks!
My buck converter output 16.3v from my 150W solar panel input of approximately 20V, I expected my 4S setup to charge up to 16.8V but usually stopped at 16.3V which is the buck converter output voltage. Meaning lithium battery can not charge beyond buck converter set output voltage. The only protection I have on the setup is a Chinese made BMS which would have let the battery charge up to 16.8V if not for the buck converter setting. It appears to be a good charger for lithium batteries.
This is really excellent and filled in a few blanks. I now have upgraded a couple of drill to Lithium. An converted the constant voltage charger to cater for 2, 3 and 5 cells battery packs. As this is the most comment electric drill battery size!
Works perfect
I am charging ALL my cells from solar. From the solar panels into step down converter. My cell packs are 21V and I have Step down set at 20.5V. Each cell has it's own protection circuit so will never shut off a cell. The series won't be broken. The series packs are 5 x 4.2V cells in series to give me 21V per pack. I then have 12 x packs in parrallel and then out to another step down converter to 12.6V for my home lighting. It is the prototype battery for my up coming TTPW (Tesla Type Power Wall). Videos on my other channel.
Li-Ion cells are rated at 3.7V, just like Ni-Mh and Ni-Cd are rated at 1.2V.
You are a blessing it pays to watch over and over your videos we are always picking up little nuggets hear and there some of us it takes a lot of repetition to learn and finally sink in thanks for your patience because of you we are up grading from L16 lead batteries to Li-ion John Morin in Milo, Maine 09-03 2017
Nice Video, just a small correction:
LiPo batteries are called LiPo not because they have a Polymere Casing, but because they contain an Electrolyte based on Polymeres, instead of a classical liquid Electrolyte found for example in your 18650 cylindrical batteries.
I study that stuff at university.
Thanks for sharing your adventures, to include both your wins and fails.
thank-you sir, a very good series to make some practical battery xp, it doesn't matter how much you read there are always some questions you basically resolved much of them, i have a request to make , i know its too late but if you make a frequency analysis of various chargers including expensive balance chargers, it will really help many people wanting a in depth explanation.
Excellent video. I've watched it 5 times so far and will probably watch it another 5.
I would add to the many good comments and tips posted already, BMS are pretty cheap now, esp. for a DIY'er and if you can't attend and monitor charging, a BMS can add the safety you need with lithium batts cutting the power when it's set V is reached. some also can set a flat timer for charging
Hi Mr Garcia, thanks for the valuable lesson on batteries. One question. What's the lifespan of a 18650 cell?
Around 1000 cycles
OK,,I BOUGHT YOUR U1XP12,,IT HAS 2 CABLES COMING OUT OF IT..WHAT PINS DO YOU USE TO CHARGE IT?
2 YOUR MONITOR YOU SHOW ON THE VIDEO FOR THIS U1XP12 DOES NOT SHOW HOW TO HOOK UP YOU BMS?
CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT PINS TO ADD A 2 WATT WALL WART CHARGER..POS/NEG PINS?
VERY FRUSTRATING THERE WAS NO WIRE DIAGRAM FOR THESE BATTERIES.
I REACHED OUT TO YOUR TEAM AND GOT NO INFO..
CAN YOU DO A VIDEO FOR THE U1XP12 BATTERY,HOW TO ACCESS THE WIRES?
THANK YOU
Hi , Can a adjustable power supply be connected directly to solar panels and then to battery bank? great vids ,.. thanks
Thanks man I never understood Constant current constant voltage properly before this was really well explained.
Hey great video. I need to charge a 10 cell 18650 battery pack. How can I modify or use a cheap 24 volt laptop charger that pushes 6 amps to charge the pack. The pack already has a BMS so i dont have to worry about overcharging.... any ideas?!
I am using chev. Volt batteries to power my golf cars. I would like to use the chargers that come with the cars .Is this power supply that you are talking about the way to keep from over charging my battery? We are using 2. 48 volt packs wired parallel And then to the car. My charger can put out about 20amp at 57 volts, and the goes down as the batteries go up. If this is the way to go ,do you have specific power supply you would recommend for this application.
5:35 4.2x2 = 7.4?
I think it's 8.4 .....
I'm new to this and I wanna learn more about setting up batteries please lemme know if voltage drops in series
Li-ion cells have a nominal voltage of 3.7V and 4.2V fully charged, just like Ni-Mh and Ni-Cd cells has 1.2V nominal and 1.5-1.6V fully charged.
First connect charger to battery - or charger to 230V?
Thanks Jehu, I find your videos both educational and entertaining :)
any chance of a video on choosing a BMS and what to look out for, what you need or don't need. great informative videos as ever.
+GlaucusBlue I'm the wrong guy for bms talk, all I know is that I've never used one and I don't feel I need one
It's been a year, did you see any difference in voltage and amperage since then?
What charger are you now using for your Bus? You say you use one of those power regulators for charging your 12 volt battery. I don't see where these are able to take in your pack voltage then derate to 12 volts? I see they take 120 AC volts. Do they also take 120 DC volts that you can then derate to 12 volts?
Thanks for the informative video! So what do I need to buy to make a charger for 18v 18amph battery? (I'M trying to charge 2 m18 9ah milwalkee batteries in parallel without using the milwalkee single battery charger)
@jehugarcia Please correct me if I'm wrong. So the batteries need to be almost identical in voltage. The capacity doesn't matter. When charging them in series, the input voltage must be whatever the total voltage is. So if I'm charging two 18650's in series, then the input voltage must be a constant 8.400v using a buck, SEPIC, or boost converter or simply a DC to DC converter. I'm talking about 18650 or 26650 batteries, NOT LiPo batteries.
Mark II if your cells have different capacity they must balanced either at the top or at the bottom. The smallest cell will always reach top and bottom voltage first therefore it will be either overcharged or overdischarged. So cells with different capacities can be used but you'd have to adjust your end voltages, top or bottom depending where you balanced them at.
So they need to be both identical in voltages. They are almost identical batteries. So I can either charge them to a desired top voltage of let's say 4.000v, or discharge them to somewhere near 3.00v. Then I can put them in series 2S, 3S, whatever, and when I go to charge them, they should charge and discharge at together.
I didn't do that yesterday. The one reached 4.208v, and the other was something like 4.187v, when I tried to charge them in series.
This isn't because regardless if I ordered 2S BMS modules from china, I don't want to use a BMS. I'm making a mailbox light type post for my father's mailbox, and I don't want to have to worry about all this BMS crap. So today I put them in parallel, because from what I think I know, they should balance themselves out.
So I'm watching the video you did.. What is Battery Balancing? Quick tip #5
So it seems they just need to be almost identical in voltage either near fully charged, or near fully discharged. Then I can use them in series, charging and discharging.
I also noticed with my box mod when I put the two batteries that are used in my box mod (2S Series), the charger tells me they're the same voltage. So that's really good, and proves what you said about the fact that they will discharge together, and charge together, as long as they're almost identical in voltage.
Over the years, I've learned a great deal about Lithium type batteries (18650, 26650 batteries mainly). Then you come along, and say they can be charged and discharged in series. Which I'm learning, is 100% correct.
For your 12v Samba You have 3 batteries in a series and 33x3 wired in parallel to get the most Ah, correct? Then you wire the positive on the series to the positive on the 33 cell in parallel. Then you wire the negative to on the series the negative on the 33 cell in parallel, correct???
Dude you are so inspirational to me I'm starting to watch all your videos and I just barely order things to build my batterie packs. 👍🏼👍🏼
I have 2 lifePO4 12v 8Ah I bought the first of this month. I bought a charge you have to set type of battery number of cells, voltage, etc. I tried to see the charger work. When I hook either battery up and try to start the charge I get a cell warning on both and no charge. My other charger gives me a cell balance problem. What do you think? I just got one of the Miady 20ah batteries today. The charger is at my office so haven’t had a chance to try it with either charger.
I bought China 18650 5000aH only because i was able to get them for .40 cents each. I know they are not 5000ah but the work pretty good. I made a 6s 22c battery and I had no powering a 3000w inverter and running a skilsaw off of it problem. If they are actually 1.5 aH are they still a good battery?
hiii jahu... i need a battery of power 1kw... can u pls tell me the arrangement and the num of batteries required and about the other accessories or equipment i required
Well you forgot to mention that impedance does increase if you actually left the charger permanently connected to the battery as you said. Now sure how familiar you are with gauging and impedance track. I use to work for TI in the BMS group.
Are you using fresh batteries for your power wall(or can i use laptop (recycled) battery for powerwall)
Hi im just starting out with the Lithium Batteries and solar thing A big thanks for you're time and knowledge great info and easy to follow
Can I charge my battery in glass box or you can say in air tight container, Please mention what will be the effect of this.Is it safe to do so ?
jehugarcia, YOU HAVE A GIFT FOR TEACHING!
Hi. I would like to know if you wanna balance that pack how you do that? with bottom or with top balance?
I have a e-bike battery it’s lithium ion it has 36 cells in it they’re packed in groups of six I believe one of the groups of six got disconnected, the weld connection broke so that group of six is lower voltage than the rest now the entire thing won't charge can I simply just re-weld it to the rest of them and charge it back up to normal or do I have to take them out separately to charge them up fully to match and then reconnect them??
How about charging a 3s or 4s battery pack using a desktop computer PSU? They're relatively cheap when on sale ($20-$30) and the 12v rail produces 35 amps. I figured you could use a bunch of imax b6 or another balance charger and connect them all in parallel with that 12v line. I've seen your open source balance charger but would like to know more about it.
I have a question. Was looking for a video on direction in how to use a 1s to 6s TB6 Hobby charger/ Balancer to balance a 60v 40AH Lithium Ion battery pack in my Electric scooter. Is there an adapter I need that will support a 16s? Do i have to break my battery down into 3 sections? Do i need to buy a different, more expensive balance charger?? Is there a way without doing any of the mentioned above?? Your videos are very descriptive, so I chose to ask you this question. Thank you, Anyone.... for a response.
Hi, thank you for your video. I have a similar situation and a question on battery charging. I plan to charge my 72v 100AH Li-ion battery bank using a diesel generator which provides a regulated DC 72v 70A. Can I connect it directly to my battery bank, or do i need to buy some kind of a charge controller? If yes, would a solar charge controller would do the job, or I need some other controller? best regards!
Dogs rule lol. One of my favorite channels, and this is a simple but yet very informative video.
Hi Jehu,
Thank you for the video, lots of fun!
I understand the principle of slowly charging batteries for safety but I'm not sure about your charging. How are you regulating charging current which is a very important thing to do?
Also have you checked individual cells to see if they balance out to relatively the same final voltage? How does Tesla, for example, charge a string of series batteries, is there concern for individual battery hogging? Also do they current limit?
Thanks for your time,
Rob
Dam, im just getting into this sort of thing and the first bit of this video was enormously helpful, you have yourself another subscriber.
I want to ask you about the differences between BMS BÀLANCE AND ENHANCE
Wanted to know how would I charge a 12v 15a lithium battery?
Exactly what I was searching for 🙏🙏🙏🇳🇬
As i saw in your video about the tesla wall, u used different batteries in it, so does it metter when they are connected in series or parallel for charging them and will it help the batteries to due quicklier?
Do you have a video on how to build a 12v lithium battery pack to replace a 12v sla battery in a battery booster? I have a couple boosters with dead batteries and a couple dozen 18650 cells laying around. Thanks.
so how many modules if around 600 watts do you have. So you charge each module individually or you have a bigger charger. When your module is fully charge is around 12.3 V, when is discharge is around 9 is this right
Can you change a modern car (whith electronics, traction control, etc) into an fully electric, or is too complicate? Thank You for your attention.
How you keep your batteries in that 2.5 - 4.2v without a bms.?
hey..a thought...like an alternator on regular car, would having a solar panels, and a windmill system embedded in the car help to recharge batteries while on the move?
No, but I could help very slowly recharge while parked
WHAT IS BETTER THE HX-M603 OR YOUR MODULE
Great man!! I need some suggestions, As I'm building a motorcycle with a 72V BLDC motor. How much voltage is enough for battery pack? I'm also using a DC-DC Converter.
And I'm using battery cell array consisting of 300 cells which is 3.7V and 2.6amps. I couldn't decide whether arrange it mostly in series and increase its voltage or arrange it in parallel and increase its amps?
is it possible to charge a 7.4v (18650 x 2 series) DIY battery with a standard 5V USB charger? Im trying to make a portable powered 12v fan run off my 7.4v DIY battery but can't seem to figure out how I can charge the pack through USB as id like to 3d print a box and keep everything enclosed in it (Battery, 2s board, fan, USB charge port and anything else needed). THANKS FOR ANY INFO!
What kind of tape do you use to tidy up wires and connections?? Does it have to be like "fire retardant" or the such??
Hi jehugarcia: I am getting things together for a powerwall as in my area in Michigan I lose power in the home 2-6 times a year. I want a way to charge the pack and would like your recommendations on a way to charge it. Solar is not in the near future due to cost and efficiency here. What I would like to do if possible is run a small gasoline engine/alternator combo but have read this may be a problem getting them topped off. Can I power a solar charger with the engine /alt that may be the answer? I would really appreciate it if you could give me your recommendations for a solution to this question. I thought I saw a video of an earlier Samba trip your took and used a similar charger but didn't see what I could do to assemble one. Thank you for your solutions and videos answered on the tube. Of course I would need details as this stuff is all new to me.
well out of all the random things there you did show us power supplies but I was just kind of wondering what about regular old batteries... like an Energizer lithium that says not rechargeable is there a way to stick charge back into that
No, only rechargeables
Hi I have a question, I have an electric scooter with a power of 36v 1000w, I want to use a Lifepo4 3.2v 2000mah battery, it is possible to use them in an electric scooter with such a power,
Jirka volf
So... If I want to charge 3 cells connected in series and another 3 cells (same series connection) with the 2 groups connected in parallel, and if each cell can except 1.5 amps, how many amps would I need to charge all 6 cells?
3A.
but don't follow his video because he doesnt even use a constant current regulator
How much voltage is your battery supplier for the samba and how much voltage the motor works with? I have the same question for the amps as well... pls answer me them.
Ok I’m in the middle of a project and have a question... my battery’s are 3.7v 5800mAh x6 .. I have a 6s pack with a 6s 15a BMS protection board to power my project... so I have a total of 22.2v... now here is my question... I would like to add a charging port and make it a Micro USB plug .... I was thanking of using a TP4056 4.2v 3A charger... would that work ??
BEST VIDEO EVER . THANK YOU . YUO ARE A BEAUTIFUL HUMAN BEING :)
Nice video my knowledge is nada, now I'm starting to understand something (series and parallel). Do you have a video showing the samba construction ?
Hi, I have one question, I made 5 cells in parallel and 3 groups in series to be 12v pack and I agree with you to be not use the BMS to charge my pack so should I charge it with 12.2v cv/cc power supply or separate to 3 of 4.2v cv/cc power supply ?
thank you.
You need a proper charger to charge 18650 in series or BOOM.
Don't follow his vid
Can i charge lead acid battery with that step up/down converter, set to 14.1v?
I think so, but check amp ratings first.
In my 48v battery-bank I’m using 3.2v I have 13 PCs at 280Ah and I’ve got 4 PCs 3.2v at 200Ah can I run in parallel 2 of the 3.2v 200Ah = 3.2v 400Ah can I use 2 - 3.2v 400Ah in my battery bank of 280Ah & if so the best place to put the ? As the the main - & + or as the Batteries 7 & 8 in the middle of the bank ? But their 120Ah over the 280Ah is it better for all the life to just use the 3.2v 200Ah as is ? So the 280Ah are only 80Ah more ?
Jehu, I just found on the street a Ford Go battery pack and seems to be working fine. The problem is I don't know how to charge it. It has a connector for a wall power supply but no idea of what kind of voltage has to be. Do you have any idea of that? Thanks
No
hi Jehu! help me out. If i have a battery pack of 3s33p around of 50ah, what is the max amp i can put to it? and send a voltage of 11.1. thanks in advance. And your channel is awesome
So where do you get your batteries and what's a good price for the 18650's?
VERY Informative! I'm planning to convert my NiCd batteries for my old Milwaukee 6024 drill. Thinking, 6 in series will give me a total of 21Ah with a max of 18-20v through a voltage regulator and a low threshold cut off circuit around 3.4 before they become unstable. Possibly may use a thermistor and voltage display panel(just for the curious folks).
What do you think? May even be able to squeeze more in the old case and bring the Ah up. Thanks.
Its pretty good explained but a few details is missing... What about if my output is 16V and my batteries that are connected in series ends up on 16,8V? Can that be any dangerous? Or does it just mean that the batteries will never be fully charged? Or what actually happens? And what about amps? Does that even matter at all? Or is it only the volt that i should care about??? Please, either reply to this thread or make a new video and explain more details... I have a bunch of batteries that looks like those small green batteries that you just showed. I got them from a laptop battery but im not sure if its same voltage in my battery as in your battery. The voltage is not displayed on the battery itself... So is it same voltage for all batteries that looks like this? Or how does that work? How do i know how much voltage my battery will need?
Thank you for this video.
I just toke 9 pieces 18560 batteries from my Dell laptop. All batteries are dead: 0,0 volt.
All tricks I found on RUclips, I tried in order to get them running. Unfortunately without any result.
I fear that I have to throw them away, or you you have a last advise ????
Jan, from the Netherlands
Screw all that lol where can i buy one of your batteries 24v 30ah send me a link need it for my lead acid skateboard trying to convert to lithium need a smaller lighter alternative please help
4:25: Dog's like, "C'mon, man, you said we were going to the park. Let's go!"
Thanks for your great postings.
Im in Australia.
I’m going to install 12v 240v 3000w Inverter with 12v 100ah Lithium Battery in my car.
I’m trying to find a way to charge the Lithium Battery from 12v (120w) Lighter Port on dashboard directly in my car without connecting with my car battery if possible.
Can you tell me what kind of stuffs that i need to buy from like Amazon?
1. You can not charge battery with voltage regulator which only work on constant voltage mode. it still can over current and damage battery
2. You can't just parallel battery for charge. 2-battery can have voltage difference that lead to high current flow and damage battery
3. You can't just series cell and charger you need to balance these cell using balance charger or BMS .
4. Note that you should not use charging current more than 1C. it can shorten battery life.
5. for who ever plan to do this just buy programmable charger which you can charge many battery type and select suitable charging voltage and current for each battery.
1. Yes we can, and we do ...
2. Yes we can, and we do ...
3. Yes we can, and we do ...
4. There are 18605 Cells that can charge faster than 1C ...
@@MrSummitville if you are normal person you can do. It's your right and risk. but if you are engineer or youtuber that teacher other without real knowledge, you can't you should have responsible for society.
@@mlab3051 So then ... stop telling us what we can't do because you have no clue ...
@@MrSummitville fine it okay to live with ego but I prefer knowledge.
@@MrSummitville if you have any argument please say in science or engineering term.
What about current control?
Discharged cell is almost like a short, so if the power source is capable of 10A it will push it into cell, cell will overheat and explode.
But that module isnt, it will overheat and thermal shut-down will occur, then cool down, turn on again, etc.
So no current control is bad.
Pay extra 1$ and you will get similar module that is capable of delivering adjustable constant current and constant voltage, so everything we need for battery charging.
no lithium batteries obviously do not store elecrtrical energy just like every other type of battery in the world, Please stop posting stupid comments or I will label you an idiot and bann you from my channel.
Moron...
Nope, I know that shit, I was making custom li-on battery packs for long range drones...
And I was doing it with my custom made welder.
srcastk,,,, you have no friends, so sad...
he said he was counting on the output impedance of his current source to limit the charging current. that is current control of sorts.
So I am considering 7x 3.7V batteries in series...do i actually need 29.5V to charge them? Cuz there are not many chargers at that voltage.
Was that a buck or boost convertor?
The battery guru. Thanks a bunch for the videos they are kick ass.
love your channel - really helping me learn on my current build !
9:51 so you charge at 12V, but at what amps? Seems using 0.5-1.0 amps would be painfully slow... What's the recommended ratio of charging amp to total Ah/capacity?
Or do you just do, cell x .5 amps? So if you have 20 cells in parallel, you can use up to 20 x .5 amps = 10 amps? I guess that makes sense.
yes
charging in parallel is a bad idea. how do you know that the current is shared equally? i suppose each individual current could be monitored
I know it's been a while since you put this up but I have a question. I have a tp4056 single cell charger but I have made a 3s3p module. How can I set it up to charge as a 9p module and function as a 3s3p module without having to rewire it every time I charge it?
Say i want to build a 48v battery should it be 48 fully charged?
Now this is actually very helpful, knowing the potential difference between two points and how they interact with each other will help me avoid dangers. this explanation expanded my knowledge on the topic, tho we have to read R Rho's comment too it seems he has pointed interesting things out that might actually be dangerous.
What’s that thing called that you plugged the bms wiring harness into to read the voltage?
PARK! Let's go to the PARK!
Nice vid... good coverage of the basics of charging cells and packs. Thanks.
4.2 + 4.2 = 8.6. Edit needed you said 7.6.
Love the short commercials. Nice & short not obtrusive.
+Darin Bicknell You beat me :)
+HBPowerwall
FAST I AM! Hey I am not finished yet... only 8 minutes in right now.
+Darin Bicknell grin
8.4 mate ;)
That's cool sir. It doesn't need bms, again its practical your doing great...
DId you ever make a followup?
I would like to ask. Normally 18650 is max at 4.2 volts.and now i got bms for 26s config. Now how can i under volt them charging them at 4volts. Should i supply 102v and bms will balance them at 4v each cell or some cell will be 4.2 and some cell are lower
Some of the batteries will take way longer than they should to charge, because the bms isn't smart enough to realize it isn't going to be able to top out the batteries at 4. 2 so you may actually be running more cycles on the batteries
Can I use solar control charger with the panel 12 volt to charge the three 18650 battery? Pls I need your help