I'm just finishing spraying my cabinets white - total reface from oak. We used the BM Advance Satin 3.5 gallons and BM Advance Primer 2.5 gallons. The finish paint was $50/gallon and I think the primer may have been $48/gallon. The color we chose was Cloud White and we love it. They have to jimmy rig the Advance Primer to tint it, but it's possible. I sprayed everything in the garage in an enclosed plastic area. I would highly recommend a lazy suzan type turntable to spray all your pieces on. It eliminates so much risk of spraying multiples at once. I only saw one available at walmart and it turned out working amazing. It was a two stand with 3 wooden dowels. So on the large stuff I set them on the 3 dowels. For the smaller stuff I popped the top of the turntable on that had three golf tees glued to it. I bought the Graco Magnum LTS15 for $270 at Lowes with a 10% off coupon. Got some experience ahead of time by painting the exterior of the house. Used a Graco RAC X Fine Finish Tip 214. Finishing our large kitchen in two weeks. First week lowers, then this week uppers. It will be about 100 accumulative hours spent. I paid friends to help me sand on the Saturdays and help brush/roll paint the inside. Our first day spraying was 99F. The max temp for application is 90F with a recommended 77F. I was fanning the AC into the garage as much as possible. One of the boards had a bad cracking effect and eventually had to use stripper and start over on that one. A few of the others had minimal cracking that we got cleared up with sanding and the additional coats. The cracking was noticed mid day and half way through spraying primer. I lowered my sprayer pressure down from the recommended 75% pressure to between 45-55% and intentionally sprayed less and never saw the problem again. I had all the cabinets drying in the garage. Used 2x4s across saw horses, etc. I hot glued golf tees to the boards and set the boards on those. Be mindful not to flip them after the dry to touch time or you'll get dimples. Wait at a very minimum the recoat time. Make sure to use two finishing coats. The inside required three finishing coats. I cleaned them all with TSP and Klean Strip Sander Deglosser. Also used an orbital sander of 120 grit before primer and then 220 grit after primer. Then a fine sanding block between coats. We also used an Elmers sandable wood filler to fill screw holes. You can see a handful of divets from over sanding. In a perfect world we would have spent more time redoing some things, but who wants to have their kitchen tied up for a minimum of two weeks. Overall we are very pleased with the BM Advance.
I use advance on ALL my trim it's the best , just to load your brush on, put on 2 thin coats,don't back brush if you can avoid it!!! Great product worth every penny
@@shahsmerdis Completely different applications. Advance is designed to dry rock hard like an oil. Great for cabinet doors, etc. Aura is fantastic. But it's still a traditional acrylic (latex) paint.
Jack, thanks for taking the time to make this video. It really helped my technique. I was trying to do it with a soft brush. Amazing to see a pro pull it out with a stiff brush. Two questions: on larger flat areas like doors, do you use a brush and mini roller in situations where you cannot spray? Also, have you tried the BM extender to increase leveling capability?
Maybe Advance has gotten a lot worse over the past 10 years? I have the same complaints as others here. It makes me feel better to know that I'm not the only one who had a terrible experience with this overpriced junk.
Thats all great on a 1 foot board. I'm having a hell of a problem with a 8 foot board. Starts drying before I get to far and frankly I hate the stuff. I'm putting on a lighter coat like I've read to do and it still runs and streaks. I can't get it to lie out at all.
Who here remembers how regal aquaglow used to lay out? Man I remember painting miles of trim and it would lay out like glass with the old purdy y brushes
I used to swear by Advance until every job I painted yellowed less than 6 months later. There are major hold out issues with this product and Benjamin Moore knows all about it. I'm old school and knew these VOC compliant hybrid coatings would be inferior to their banned counterparts.
+Joel B. i have used advanced since it came out..i have never had any of it yellow before..if it was yellowing it sounds like on pine trim and the tannin is comming through...and if it is the tannin comming through then most knowledgeable painters would know, that u have to use eith a shellack or an oil primer sealer to stop the tannin from comming through
Great video! Do you have a favorite nap when brushing and rolling cabinet boxes w/ Advance, is the Picasso orange bristle brush good for Advance, and do you prefer the finish of Muralo enamel trim paint over advance for wood?
I'm painting bookcases (primed and sanded). I will be using a brush, would you use this same paint for that application? Does this product need floetrol? The bookcases are birch, primed with zinnser and lightly sanded. Ready for paint. Thanks!
I’m a carpenter… who can paint very well. Not a professional painter, even though I enjoy doing it when I have to. Today I got ahold of this “Advance” shite… It’s beautiful stuff to roll on a wide slick surface as it’s self leveling ability’s lay it nice and flat without having to tip out with a super softy brush….”but I actually like that process anyway honestly” However… dragging this crap across 120 foot of baseboard is a nightmare…. You damn near need a yard rake to move this sludge around. I suppose a clearcut elite ULTRA stiff is on my shopping list tonight. Love buying single use, single job tools because… what even is money ? 🤷🏽♂️🤣
to use advanced,all u need to do is to brush it on very light coats. and it will flow out on second coat and not show brush marks..and use a good soft brush like a jasper or signiture series brush,and purdy brushes are good as well.
Nope, it is a nightmare. The temperature here is about 60 degrees. I found that I couldn't brush my baseboards out smoothly at all. My chinex Corona brush was dragging. I hate Advance.@@wolf360090
I dont know how youre able to go back over and over this paint with the brush and it stays wet. Im painting a cabinet door with this and the paint literally starts to tack up in 30-40 seconds. If I go back over it to smooth out the brush strokes, it pulls the already drying paint. If there are any professional painter in the comments that can help me understand my problem please dont hesitate.
I’m not a professional, but I’ve used Advance for years and I can tell you what’s helped me-I’ve learned to work small sections at a time and if I need to paint a larger section, I’ll use a really good microfiber roller (not a foam, they leave bubbles) to apply the paint, then brush over to even it out. I also make sure that I don’t have a fan blowing on or near me while I’m working, that seems to make it tack up. I hope this helps! Good luck!
@@Masqueesha Thanks for your input, but Ive figured it out. On the can it says you can apply in temps anywhere from 50 - 90 degrees. This upper range is misleading and is what was causing my issue of the paint drying way too fast even though I was applying in 75 degree weather inside my shop. I tried again at night when it dropped to 50 - 60 and worked much much better! Leveled out very nicely and stayed wet for 15-20 mins! So for anyone having similar issues like I did, paint below 60 degrees.
Exactly my experience. I painted 8 ft baseboards. The (Chinex Corona) paint brush dragged the paint as though it was already too dry. I am dreading doing the second coat. Advance is the most expensive and worst paint I've ever used.
this paint is far better then the dulux diamond paint.there is no comparison between the 2.and with jorge saying worst for spraying and brushing, then he has no idea on how to use a sprayer or paint brush.
From what the demo shows, it appears to have the characteristics of the old Alkyd/oil paints. For many years the Alkyds oils were the king of paint. When the Latex Acrylics came on the scene they were generally a poor choice for interior work. Their adhesion was abysmal. If you scuffed it, the paint would roll up and peel off the wall, even when the sub-surface was properly primed. The acrylics seem to have been relegated to exterior paints that do not get a lot of wear and are exposed to the elements. I've noticed the BenM exterior acrylics still have the rubbery latex feel and can be rolled up off of a slick surface. The new WaterBorne enamels are SO much better nowadays. I know PPG has the Speed-hide and others, but the Pitt-Tech SG is really good. I would place it as a good alternative to the Alkyds although the deeper tones don't hold their true color outdoors in direct sunlight. BenM supposedly has solved the color-fastness problem with their Gennex colorant system. I don't have any real world experience with the new pigment system. Can anyone comment on the Gennex colorants? The paint supply stores are still split as to whether it is the real deal or not.
I have never worried about "mils" ..... I simply eyeball - "too thin" "just right" or "too thick" ..... who cares about "mils" and i think it's ridiculous to even have a "mil gauge" ..... Do people check the mil gauge every 3 feet when painting a house ???? I sure as hell don't
Jorge duarte WE USE ADVANCE ON ALL OUR CABINET PROJECTS AND HAS WORKED GREAT FOR US. YOU SHOULD TRY READING "ALL" OF INFO ON CAN LABEL, MIGHT LEARN SOMETHING, NOT A WASTE OF TIME. ALSO ON ONE TEST WE DID, WE COMPARED BEN SG VS REGAL SG, SIDE BY SIDE ON SOME TRIM AND THE BEN DID AS GOOD OR BETTER THAN REGAL, WICH WAS $10-$15 HIGHER PER GAL.
Jorge duarte IM NOT TRYING TO BE A SMART BUTT, JUST TRYING TO HELP. WE CAN ALL LEARN SOMETHING EVERY DAY, U KNOW. BUT WE ARE VERY FAMILIAR WITH ADAVNCE PAINT, AND YES IT COULD BE DIFFICULT FOR 1ST TIME USER. WE HAVE , BRUSHED, ROLLED (2 COATS) AND SPRAYED. DOESNT NOT YELLOW LIKE OIL BASED PAINTS, BUT HARDENS LIKE OIL FINISH THE LONGER IT CURES. IT IS A DELICATE PAINT TO USE, BUT IF YOU HAVE GREAT KNOWLEDGE ABOUT THIS PRODUCT YOULL HAVE AMAZING RESULTS. HOPE THE BEST!
Advance is hard to use at first but once you get use to it it levels nice similar to vista protec or. Sherwin Williams alkyd or Dunn edwards aristoshield
@@epicpainting4725 So what's the secret? After failing at painting simple flat baseboards, I wouldn't use Advance to paint cabinets if it was free and you paid me.
Advance didn't level at all for me. It looks rough and runs too. I'm so discouraged that I'm not sure if I should switch to something else for the second coat.@@victorcastro9440
these water alkyds are good but not as good as oil based you can't beat oil based i even use oil eggshell on walls and cellings in bathrooms and kitchens sometimes
That's a nice looking finish I must admit, but consider this...look at how much time spent this poor guy has to do to just to apply this finicky crap on a small piece of 12'' trim that is level...which being level greatly reduces the run that you'll encounter on any piece of wood you try to paint on that isn't on a sawhorse. Imagine painting a whole house of this trim when it is all ready installed vertically and horizontally, and you have to keep checking for runs no matter how perfectly you apply it. Absolute nightmare to apply in that way. I guess if you apply it before you install it on a new or remodeled house it wouldn't be as awful to work with, but then you have to consider the many comments I have read about this yellowing over time, which negates any previous positives may have had. Then add on the outrageous price per gallon and you have an easy decision which paint not to buy.
Nick, you made some good points but keep in mind that what you see in this video is the study of paint before its used on a job. I suppose most people would prefer to pop open the lid and just apply it without any thought, but that isn't at all what this video is about. This video is just one example of a series of tests performed to "get to know" the product. What you see here is the same thing we do with every product.
like i said before the price is high for the paint, but 1 quart of it will do as much as the$25 cheap paint. and by no means its a night mare to work with..and if you know how to use a paint brush then it will not run at all.. and yes a lot of the places i did with it was 5 years and more.and still nothing has yellowed yet, i did the trim on house house when it first came out, and still looks the same as the day i put it on.it is just like other types of paint are applied differently. aura paint when you roll it on you dont back roll it because it dries so fast, 1 quart of the advance paint did all the trim in my moms house when i did it 3 years ago. and it goes on fast and brushes out very well..he is doing a demo with it in the vid but when its on a larger piece it brushes out very dast and smooth...and with the $25 cheap paint, u will be redoing it more often and you will not be able to wash it and the color will lift if you do,,,
The old Alkyd/oil paints had characteristics similar to the new WB Advance. If you had experience with the old paints, then you would understand why this material behaves the way it does.
I'm painting baseboards on sawhorses. The Advance drags. Maybe I applied too thin of a coat but I was afraid to make it too thick because I know this stuff runs easily. I still ended up with runs on the sides (which will be the top and bottom of the baseboards. What paint do you recommend?
why dip the brush 10 times and scrape it off on the can ????? and wouldn't it be nice if baseboards actually laid horizontally flat in real life instead of vertically upright ???
Why does the internet have to constantly deal with people like you who have no clue what they are talking about and go and comment on other peoples videos? If you had any clue (even the smallest bit of knowledge) about applying paint, you wouldn't be asking the stupid questions you did.
This advance paint is the worst paint I have ever used for the money-second worst overall. It's not easy to apply, it doesn't cover well, but when you finally finish it does look good. But for the money, save a ton by purchasing Behr (wins consumer reports annually for best paint value) for 25$ a gallon instead of $70 for this horse-bleep. Used Behr on one job earlier this week and was magnificent, used this stuff again today after using the previous few weeks and was still awful to apply. Have had good experiences with other B. Moore paints just not this one.
behr paint sucs,,advance paint is the best to use for trim work, furniture etc.. and the yellowing is prob caused by something underneath of it bleeding through,,i have used 100s of gallons of advanced and that is all i use now for trim work,, it stands up to just about anything and veru durable,washable.,,and for the 25$ a gallon paint u use then the get $25 worth of paint..advanced paint goes a long way and 1 qt of it would do the same job as a galloon of that cheap ass behr ,,which is the worst paint on the market..
If behr stinks so bad why does it consistently win consumer reports best paint year after year? Surely it's not the best paint you can buy, but it is the best for the money, covers great, and applies wonderfully. Have never had a problem in all my years even once with it. Worst paint on the market? Try Pittsburgh. As far as blaming "something underneath" for causing the yellowing..good conspiracy theory, but there have been complaints about this advance paint yellowing from far too many places to try and misplace blame on object being painted. Besides, isn't it the job of a quality paint to seal and prevent that from happening? What would you prefer..a paint that is extremely expensive, takes forever to apply, then looks good (and is durable) for a few years before it starts to yellow and look awful, where you have to do the job all over again? I'm just curious about those paint jobs you have done with advance..has more than 5 years passed since you applied it?
def not the best for the money,,it wins the best paint, well its because of what they spend in advertising..as i painter myself i have run into alot of problems with it..if i went into a job and they had behr there , i would tell them to find someonelse to do their painting..its all hyped up and the prime while you paint they advertise is false advertising,
Nick Geschke and i forgot to mention.i have never had any of the advance paint turn yellow.and anytime i ever did see anytype of yellowing from someone who painted was because of what is underneath.exp if is pine and not sealed properly, the tannen will bleed through no matter what you put on top of it unless u seal it or heavy cigerette smoke will do the same
@@nickflit you just showed your ignorance when you said "Isn't it the job of a good paint to seal and prevent that (tannin bleed) from happening ?" ...... NO it's not , no latex paint on Earth is going to seal tannin bleed , you have to use an oil or shellac primer first UNDER the topcoat of Latex PAINT ...... WATER causes the bleed !!!!!!!
I'm just finishing spraying my cabinets white - total reface from oak.
We used the BM Advance Satin 3.5 gallons and BM Advance Primer 2.5 gallons. The finish paint was $50/gallon and I think the primer may have been $48/gallon. The color we chose was Cloud White and we love it. They have to jimmy rig the Advance Primer to tint it, but it's possible. I sprayed everything in the garage in an enclosed plastic area. I would highly recommend a lazy suzan type turntable to spray all your pieces on. It eliminates so much risk of spraying multiples at once. I only saw one available at walmart and it turned out working amazing. It was a two stand with 3 wooden dowels. So on the large stuff I set them on the 3 dowels. For the smaller stuff I popped the top of the turntable on that had three golf tees glued to it. I bought the Graco Magnum LTS15 for $270 at Lowes with a 10% off coupon. Got some experience ahead of time by painting the exterior of the house. Used a Graco RAC X Fine Finish Tip 214.
Finishing our large kitchen in two weeks. First week lowers, then this week uppers. It will be about 100 accumulative hours spent. I paid friends to help me sand on the Saturdays and help brush/roll paint the inside. Our first day spraying was 99F. The max temp for application is 90F with a recommended 77F. I was fanning the AC into the garage as much as possible. One of the boards had a bad cracking effect and eventually had to use stripper and start over on that one. A few of the others had minimal cracking that we got cleared up with sanding and the additional coats. The cracking was noticed mid day and half way through spraying primer. I lowered my sprayer pressure down from the recommended 75% pressure to between 45-55% and intentionally sprayed less and never saw the problem again. I had all the cabinets drying in the garage. Used 2x4s across saw horses, etc. I hot glued golf tees to the boards and set the boards on those. Be mindful not to flip them after the dry to touch time or you'll get dimples. Wait at a very minimum the recoat time. Make sure to use two finishing coats. The inside required three finishing coats. I cleaned them all with TSP and Klean Strip Sander Deglosser. Also used an orbital sander of 120 grit before primer and then 220 grit after primer. Then a fine sanding block between coats. We also used an Elmers sandable wood filler to fill screw holes. You can see a handful of divets from over sanding. In a perfect world we would have spent more time redoing some things, but who wants to have their kitchen tied up for a minimum of two weeks. Overall we are very pleased with the BM Advance.
Can you do a video where you paint on a vertical surface like baseboards? It seems like you would get sagging? How do you avoid it?
I use advance on ALL my trim it's the best , just to load your brush on, put on 2 thin coats,don't back brush if you can avoid it!!! Great product worth every penny
what do you think about aura vs advance? Thanks!
I do it on *all* as well. The 12-14 hour recoat time stinks, but the result is worth it.
@@shahsmerdis Completely different applications. Advance is designed to dry rock hard like an oil. Great for cabinet doors, etc. Aura is fantastic. But it's still a traditional acrylic (latex) paint.
@@shahsmerdis advance for trim is far far better. Aura is still a latex paint
@@mmilunsky thanks. We ended up respraying with advanced and omg it was great. So much richer color .
Jack, thanks for taking the time to make this video. It really helped my technique. I was trying to do it with a soft brush. Amazing to see a pro pull it out with a stiff brush. Two questions: on larger flat areas like doors, do you use a brush and mini roller in situations where you cannot spray? Also, have you tried the BM extender to increase leveling capability?
As a retailer I absolutely love this product. And sell tons of it! By the way, The beer in the beer cozy in the back ground is a nice touch.
Maybe Advance has gotten a lot worse over the past 10 years? I have the same complaints as others here. It makes me feel better to know that I'm not the only one who had a terrible experience with this overpriced junk.
Thats all great on a 1 foot board. I'm having a hell of a problem with a 8 foot board. Starts drying before I get to far and frankly I hate the stuff. I'm putting on a lighter coat like I've read to do and it still runs and streaks. I can't get it to lie out at all.
Add water.
Flotrol is not recommended for Benjamin Moore paints.
You have to reduce paint...try XIM reducer
Who here remembers how regal aquaglow used to lay out? Man I remember painting miles of trim and it would lay out like glass with the old purdy y brushes
That stuff was sweet.
So Regal Aquaglow is no longer available?
I used to swear by Advance until every job I painted yellowed less than 6 months later. There are major hold out issues with this product and Benjamin Moore knows all about it. I'm old school and knew these VOC compliant hybrid coatings would be inferior to their banned counterparts.
spoiler alert!! benjamin moore is still carrying satin impervo in there factory most stores are just not selling it
Todd Meyer impervo is discontinued and inpervox replaced it.
+Joel B. i have used advanced since it came out..i have never had any of it yellow before..if it was yellowing it sounds like on pine trim and the tannin is comming through...and if it is the tannin comming through then most knowledgeable painters would know, that u have to use eith a shellack or an oil primer sealer to stop the tannin from comming through
+wolf360090 Impervo IS NOT discontinued here in CT…it is still great stuff…dont know about this Advance though..thanks for the inputs
act is is discontinued..if you can still get it then u are lucky,nust be old stock,, i am a ben moore retailer and have 2 cans left lol
It's Mt Dew. As seen in many of the photos on Flickr
i was gonna say that's no beer its the dew
Advance sprays beautifully through an air sprayer as well
I used a cheap 30 dollar one from princess auto
Great video! Do you have a favorite nap when brushing and rolling cabinet boxes w/ Advance, is the Picasso orange bristle brush good for Advance, and do you prefer the finish of Muralo enamel trim paint over advance for wood?
I'm painting bookcases (primed and sanded). I will be using a brush, would you use this same paint for that application? Does this product need floetrol? The bookcases are birch, primed with zinnser and lightly sanded. Ready for paint. Thanks!
What color is your paint?
I’m a carpenter… who can paint very well.
Not a professional painter, even though I enjoy doing it when I have to.
Today I got ahold of this “Advance” shite…
It’s beautiful stuff to roll on a wide slick surface as it’s self leveling ability’s lay it nice and flat without having to tip out with a super softy brush….”but I actually like that process anyway honestly”
However… dragging this crap across 120 foot of baseboard is a nightmare….
You damn near need a yard rake to move this sludge around.
I suppose a clearcut elite ULTRA stiff is on my shopping list tonight.
Love buying single use, single job tools because… what even is money ? 🤷🏽♂️🤣
what do you think about aura vs advance? Thanks!
to use advanced,all u need to do is to brush it on very light coats. and it will flow out on second coat and not show brush marks..and use a good soft brush like a jasper or signiture series brush,and purdy brushes are good as well.
wolf360090 what I'm worried about is thr box part of thr Canet thst are vertical. ...sounds like a nightmare
it def is not a nightmare, brush it on in very thing coats and it will spread out and lave no brush marks, just take your time and will turn out fine
Nope, it is a nightmare. The temperature here is about 60 degrees. I found that I couldn't brush my baseboards out smoothly at all. My chinex Corona brush was dragging. I hate Advance.@@wolf360090
I dont know how youre able to go back over and over this paint with the brush and it stays wet. Im painting a cabinet door with this and the paint literally starts to tack up in 30-40 seconds. If I go back over it to smooth out the brush strokes, it pulls the already drying paint. If there are any professional painter in the comments that can help me understand my problem please dont hesitate.
I’m not a professional, but I’ve used Advance for years and I can tell you what’s helped me-I’ve learned to work small sections at a time and if I need to paint a larger section, I’ll use a really good microfiber roller (not a foam, they leave bubbles) to apply the paint, then brush over to even it out. I also make sure that I don’t have a fan blowing on or near me while I’m working, that seems to make it tack up. I hope this helps! Good luck!
@@Masqueesha Thanks for your input, but Ive figured it out. On the can it says you can apply in temps anywhere from 50 - 90 degrees. This upper range is misleading and is what was causing my issue of the paint drying way too fast even though I was applying in 75 degree weather inside my shop. I tried again at night when it dropped to 50 - 60 and worked much much better! Leveled out very nicely and stayed wet for 15-20 mins! So for anyone having similar issues like I did, paint below 60 degrees.
Ununpentius That’s good to know too! Temp never occurred to me since like you, I was always in the range. Makes total sense.
Exactly my experience. I painted 8 ft baseboards. The (Chinex Corona) paint brush dragged the paint as though it was already too dry. I am dreading doing the second coat. Advance is the most expensive and worst paint I've ever used.
What does leveled mean?
what number is this white and cost of paint thank you in advance
I my opinion the advance high gloss system Is not in the same class for leveling or sheen as the new dulux quick drying gloss system.
whats the name of the white? Is it the high gloss?
best leveling paint ive seen so far was the dulux diamond until now. I must try this
this paint is far better then the dulux diamond paint.there is no comparison between the 2.and with jorge saying worst for spraying and brushing, then he has no idea on how to use a sprayer or paint brush.
Ian A
TRY DOING 2 COATS, WE HAVE FOUND THIS HELPFUL, IT LEVELS BETTER AND ACHIEVES THE DESIRED FINISH.
Dulux Diamond is terrible. The UK stuff anyway. An expensive mediocrity.
is the a Corona brush?
I meant the regal interior semi-gloss from back in the day
No spraying?
Which brush were you using to apply jack
chris montague Benjamin Moore 65125
Well what with this and all the other vids you really are then best I've seen online....
From what the demo shows, it appears to have the characteristics of the old Alkyd/oil paints. For many years the Alkyds oils were the king of paint. When the Latex Acrylics came on the scene they were generally a poor choice for interior work. Their adhesion was abysmal. If you scuffed it, the paint would roll up and peel off the wall, even when the sub-surface was properly primed. The acrylics seem to have been relegated to exterior paints that do not get a lot of wear and are exposed to the elements. I've noticed the BenM exterior acrylics still have the rubbery latex feel and can be rolled up off of a slick surface.
The new WaterBorne enamels are SO much better nowadays. I know PPG has the Speed-hide and others, but the Pitt-Tech SG is really good. I would place it as a good alternative to the Alkyds although the deeper tones don't hold their true color outdoors in direct sunlight. BenM supposedly has solved the color-fastness problem with their Gennex colorant system. I don't have any real world experience with the new pigment system. Can anyone comment on the Gennex colorants? The paint supply stores are still split as to whether it is the real deal or not.
I have never worried about "mils" ..... I simply eyeball - "too thin" "just right" or "too thick" ..... who cares about "mils" and i think it's ridiculous to even have a "mil gauge" ..... Do people check the mil gauge every 3 feet when painting a house ???? I sure as hell don't
Benjamin Moore 65125 2.5" angular
What sheen is this?
Satin
Thanks!
@2:30 it says barely 5mils ... "Ya, its 7"
Thanks. let me know if you have any specific requests for a video and I'll see what I can do.
That's a lot of paint on brush for Advance.
It's easy on a horizontal surface. Let's see you do it on a 3 1/2 " molded vertical casing. Around the whole door. Runs!
Worst paint for brushing or spraying, it runs like a river and dont cover well, save some money and buy regal select instead.
Jorge duarte
WE USE ADVANCE ON ALL OUR CABINET
PROJECTS AND HAS WORKED GREAT FOR US. YOU SHOULD TRY READING "ALL" OF INFO ON CAN LABEL, MIGHT LEARN SOMETHING, NOT A WASTE OF TIME.
ALSO ON ONE TEST WE DID, WE COMPARED BEN SG VS REGAL SG, SIDE BY SIDE ON SOME TRIM AND THE BEN DID AS GOOD OR BETTER THAN REGAL, WICH WAS $10-$15 HIGHER PER GAL.
Jorge duarte
IM NOT TRYING TO BE A SMART BUTT, JUST TRYING TO HELP. WE CAN ALL LEARN SOMETHING EVERY DAY, U KNOW.
BUT WE ARE VERY FAMILIAR WITH ADAVNCE PAINT, AND YES IT COULD BE DIFFICULT FOR 1ST TIME USER. WE HAVE , BRUSHED, ROLLED (2 COATS) AND SPRAYED. DOESNT NOT YELLOW LIKE OIL BASED PAINTS, BUT HARDENS LIKE OIL FINISH THE LONGER IT CURES. IT IS A DELICATE PAINT TO USE, BUT IF YOU HAVE GREAT KNOWLEDGE ABOUT THIS PRODUCT YOULL HAVE AMAZING RESULTS. HOPE THE BEST!
Advance is hard to use at first but once you get use to it it levels nice similar to vista protec or. Sherwin Williams alkyd or Dunn edwards aristoshield
@@epicpainting4725 So what's the secret? After failing at painting simple flat baseboards, I wouldn't use Advance to paint cabinets if it was free and you paid me.
Advance didn't level at all for me. It looks rough and runs too. I'm so discouraged that I'm not sure if I should switch to something else for the second coat.@@victorcastro9440
these water alkyds are good but not as good as oil based you can't beat oil based i even use oil eggshell on walls and cellings in bathrooms and kitchens sometimes
That's a nice looking finish I must admit, but consider this...look at how much time spent this poor guy has to do to just to apply this finicky crap on a small piece of 12'' trim that is level...which being level greatly reduces the run that you'll encounter on any piece of wood you try to paint on that isn't on a sawhorse. Imagine painting a whole house of this trim when it is all ready installed vertically and horizontally, and you have to keep checking for runs no matter how perfectly you apply it. Absolute nightmare to apply in that way. I guess if you apply it before you install it on a new or remodeled house it wouldn't be as awful to work with, but then you have to consider the many comments I have read about this yellowing over time, which negates any previous positives may have had. Then add on the outrageous price per gallon and you have an easy decision which paint not to buy.
Nick, you made some good points but keep in mind that what you see in this video is the study of paint before its used on a job. I suppose most people would prefer to pop open the lid and just apply it without any thought, but that isn't at all what this video is about. This video is just one example of a series of tests performed to "get to know" the product. What you see here is the same thing we do with every product.
like i said before the price is high for the paint, but 1 quart of it will do as much as the$25 cheap paint. and by no means its a night mare to work with..and if you know how to use a paint brush then it will not run at all.. and yes a lot of the places i did with it was 5 years and more.and still nothing has yellowed yet, i did the trim on house house when it first came out, and still looks the same as the day i put it on.it is just like other types of paint are applied differently. aura paint when you roll it on you dont back roll it because it dries so fast, 1 quart of the advance paint did all the trim in my moms house when i did it 3 years ago. and it goes on fast and brushes out very well..he is doing a demo with it in the vid but when its on a larger piece it brushes out very dast and smooth...and with the $25 cheap paint, u will be redoing it more often and you will not be able to wash it and the color will lift if you do,,,
The old Alkyd/oil paints had characteristics similar to the new WB Advance. If you had experience with the old paints, then you would understand why this material behaves the way it does.
I'm painting baseboards on sawhorses. The Advance drags. Maybe I applied too thin of a coat but I was afraid to make it too thick because I know this stuff runs easily. I still ended up with runs on the sides (which will be the top and bottom of the baseboards. What paint do you recommend?
why dip the brush 10 times and scrape it off on the can ????? and wouldn't it be nice if baseboards actually laid horizontally flat in real life instead of vertically upright ???
Why does the internet have to constantly deal with people like you who have no clue what they are talking about and go and comment on other peoples videos? If you had any clue (even the smallest bit of knowledge) about applying paint, you wouldn't be asking the stupid questions you did.
This advance paint is the worst paint I have ever used for the money-second worst overall. It's not easy to apply, it doesn't cover well, but when you finally finish it does look good. But for the money, save a ton by purchasing Behr (wins consumer reports annually for best paint value) for 25$ a gallon instead of $70 for this horse-bleep. Used Behr on one job earlier this week and was magnificent, used this stuff again today after using the previous few weeks and was still awful to apply. Have had good experiences with other B. Moore paints just not this one.
Nick Geschke behr is crap.
It doesn’t even dry completely on trim. Remains sticky forever
behr paint sucs,,advance paint is the best to use for trim work, furniture etc.. and the yellowing is prob caused by something underneath of it bleeding through,,i have used 100s of gallons of advanced and that is all i use now for trim work,, it stands up to just about anything and veru durable,washable.,,and for the 25$ a gallon paint u use then the get $25 worth of paint..advanced paint goes a long way and 1 qt of it would do the same job as a galloon of that cheap ass behr ,,which is the worst paint on the market..
If behr stinks so bad why does it consistently win consumer reports best paint year after year? Surely it's not the best paint you can buy, but it is the best for the money, covers great, and applies wonderfully. Have never had a problem in all my years even once with it. Worst paint on the market? Try Pittsburgh. As far as blaming "something underneath" for causing the yellowing..good conspiracy theory, but there have been complaints about this advance paint yellowing from far too many places to try and misplace blame on object being painted. Besides, isn't it the job of a quality paint to seal and prevent that from happening? What would you prefer..a paint that is extremely expensive, takes forever to apply, then looks good (and is durable) for a few years before it starts to yellow and look awful, where you have to do the job all over again? I'm just curious about those paint jobs you have done with advance..has more than 5 years passed since you applied it?
def not the best for the money,,it wins the best paint, well its because of what they spend in advertising..as i painter myself i have run into alot of problems with it..if i went into a job and they had behr there , i would tell them to find someonelse to do their painting..its all hyped up and the prime while you paint they advertise is false advertising,
Nick Geschke and i forgot to mention.i have never had any of the advance paint turn yellow.and anytime i ever did see anytype of yellowing from someone who painted was because of what is underneath.exp if is pine and not sealed properly, the tannen will bleed through no matter what you put on top of it unless u seal it or heavy cigerette smoke will do the same
@@nickflit you just showed your ignorance when you said "Isn't it the job of a good paint to seal and prevent that (tannin bleed) from happening ?" ...... NO it's not , no latex paint on Earth is going to seal tannin bleed , you have to use an oil or shellac primer first UNDER the topcoat of Latex PAINT ...... WATER causes the bleed !!!!!!!
Which brush/roller do you recommend for Advance? Thanks.
"Professional Painter" ??? You dipped the brush 5 times to paint a 12" piece of trim ..... lol .....
What sheen is this?
Benjamin Moore 65125 2.5" angular