Couple things I would suggest you either add or comment on at minimum. 1. You never finish hooking up the R , B- , or B+, so I needed to find another resource for that. 2. You don’t show how to hook up the solenoid to the battery/controller, nor do you give suggestions how to mount it, given there isn’t any ideal way to do it with the hardware from the kit. The other minor thing is the 48v harness you sell to convert the 36v system does not have wires long enough to reach the Fwd/Rev switch. I had to extend those wires by a good 16” to reach. Not a big deal, but you prob should let people know, because I was baffled for a bit thinking I did something wrong. Other than that, bravo! Thank you for the guide, it was a huge help!
Great job at the videography and explaining of the process. It takes a lot to keep my attention and you nailed it! If you do all your videos this way y’all will be successful.
Question? The orange wire that you said that goes to the charger... where does that go when you are installing the eco battery charging system? Do you not use that one anymore?
Question. The long orange wire that you said goes to battery charger... where does that go when you arr using a eco battery and charger? Do you just not use it? As I am no longer using the o.e.m charging port?
Do you have to do anything extra to the batteries when going from 36 to 48 volts? I couldn't tell in the video if the controller and motor will just do that alone or what
Was there any problems with the spline counts on the old motor vs the new one? My motor shows to have a 19 Spline and the Navitas says 10? Just wanna be dang sure before I purchase one of these kits.
Why do most shops install Navitas and I don’t hear any recommend or install Silverwolf Teekon unless you buy it yourself? Have you heard long term comparisons between Navitas vs Teekon?
Dumb question What is the grease you were talking about putting behind the controller? And also wouldn't you want to go ahead and have it? Sam blasted and painted before you start putting stuff on it so you don't have to take the controller back off?¿?? Just asking
Great video, must have been a bunch of editing to get this down to 30min! Do you have a parts list for this conversion? I have a 2002 6 Passenger TXT series/ITS. Converted from 36V to 48V with an Alltrax controller, HD Fwd/Rev switch, and solenoid. If I am understanding correctly, the AC conversion does not need the HD Fwd/Rev switch. What speed range would you see with this Navitas conversion (23" wheels)?
You have no idea how many hours are in this video. We specialize in that kit and can answer all of your questions about it. Drop us an email at golfcartsmodifiedsales@gmail.com and we can give you more info. ~Travis Andrews GCMod
Excellent video. I'm looking at this kit right now. If I just buy the kit does it include everything you would need? Does it include the Solenoid, and that wiring harness? Do you need to replace the F/R switch?
Great video!! I have a question on the 48V Solenoid, does it need the Diode and Resistor on the MZJ-400? I purchased the 4KW-600 amp DC to AC Conversion Kit and confused if I need to use the diode and resistor on this kit. Any help would be appreciated
@@BrianPainter-es4bq I just had the same kit installed on my Club Car DS on a 48v lithium battery. Did you switch out your solenoid with 2 AWG cables on it?
Can I make my old-school Yamaha go fast with this process and your kit or can you let me know what’s the best kit for Old-School Yamaha? I think it’s a 1995 it run super slow I need to run faster.
Do you happen to know if navitas works with a hall effect type pedal box? When I run the diagnostics the foot switch is on without depressing the pedal. The resting voltage is good at .55v but the foot switch won't engage on the hall pedal. Not sure if this pedal is supposed to be that way and I just have the wrong pedal for this type controller or its something in the settings of the TAC2 controller I can change to make it work?
I’m starting with an 02 in the same condition. Frame is clean new battery tray. But I don’t have that plate you put the heat sink on I have a steel plate with the OE solenoid on it. What do I do in that situation?
Yea I have already. Tomorrow will be day 6 of waiting to be added to the facebook page so I can ask questions but since that’s not looking promising I’ve been emailing every question to your customer service
I thought I finally had all the parts but my pedal control wire is a 4 wire square. Do I need to get a 48V pedal box or will my 36V pedal work if I splice the wires the way you did?
@@GolfCartsModified I had a black in line connector that had the right color wires. I was able to use the 4 wire connector from the old TXT cart to splice and then use the same pedal. I hit 24 miles an hour after hooking everything up. Now definitely going to need to tighten up steering somehow.
I have a 20 16 Yamaha I’m thinking about upgrading that motor to AC I have the DC motor kit what do you recommend and I got have 3 inch lift on it but it’s the spindle left I don’t like that do you have any ideas for me
Hi , i have an old Golf Club Cart petrol engone 1993, not sure if you can help me. Cart haș sat for 6 months due to lockdown, it was fine before, but now it works fine apart from the bleeping noise when in reverse gear will not stop in forward, neutral or with the ignition turnee off Off, the petrol gauge returns to empty, but the noise stays on so ive hâd to disconnect the battery to stop the noise. Can you advise me?
I just a free gold cart 93 ezgo was working fine and it sat for about 3 years I bought new batteries and Now it doesn’t move forward or in reverse when you pumped Excelerator every once in a while it moves a couple inches in reverse and it diesAny ideas any help any suggestions
I ave a 2003 36 volt series cart that I upgraded to 48 volts and it never had a run/tow switch. I'm thinking I can convert this to the Navitas system using a stock PDS harness and will need to add a switch. Since the pDS harness only has 2 wires for a switch, can I use a SPST switch?
What happens when the Navitas Speed Controller gets wet from rain dripping through the seat cracks or water splashes up from the road? Is it more waterproof than what comes with most all carts or can it be made to be better about taking water splashes on Street Legal Carts?
The controller is IP rated for dust and moisture. I wouldn’t go mudding or driving into a pond with it but it’s ok if it gets drips or splashes on it. Keep in mind that’s just the controller, if you have old sketchy wiring you may have a potential short that could damage the controller.
where can one get a 5kw motor for the yamaha drive? the few places i've found that sell the dc to ac conversion kits only have the 4kw motor. i'm assuming the 5kw will make better top speed?
As far as Range goes that’s typically a battery area. This kit on Lead Acid you will typically see around 17-20 miles of range. If you add a Eco 105 lithium now your getting into the 35-40 mile range
Awesome what im looking for a old cart to rebuild it like this to what i want..this a/c an lithium battery pack will be less than a good used slow cart
I’m upgrading a 1995 Medalist 36v to this system. Can you point me to a good aftermarket F/R rocker switch? Maybe easier to just mount one for a TXT on my dash. Also planning to run Li-Ion 48v system, BigBattery has a nice drop in system for about $2k. Any recommendations?
For the loud back up horn, you can just insert a run of the mill foam ear plug from CVS, will reduce the sound to virtually nothing…yes that defeats the purpose of the warning system but then again we’re talking golf carts, not heavy machinery like backhoes and trucks.
Great video. Ordered my kit today and can't wait. What is the song you're playing for background music in this? I've looked everywhere and can't figure it out lol
I just got my kit delivered today. Looking forward to the install. I can't say enough on how helpful Travis was in helping with my build! Its a frame off so there's a lot of work to do. Thanks for all your videos, gave me a lot of ideas. BTW where did you get the tow hook the Black ezgo build?
@@GolfCartsModified you say no more handle. Was this cart originally a 36 volt series with shifter below the seat? And would this kit work well on an Ez-go PDS?
What happens if the buzzer is unhooked? Mine has been unhooked from day one and I just did the ac conversion kit and all seems to be working fine, unless I'm missing something. What happens?
I couldn't help but notice that you're missing the resister from post to post on the low amp wiring of your 400a Solenoid. Is there a disadvantage/advantage to this? I thought the controller would error out if this wasn't present... Thanks!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Couple things I would suggest you either add or comment on at minimum.
1. You never finish hooking up the R , B- , or B+, so I needed to find another resource for that.
2. You don’t show how to hook up the solenoid to the battery/controller, nor do you give suggestions how to mount it, given there isn’t any ideal way to do it with the hardware from the kit.
The other minor thing is the 48v harness you sell to convert the 36v system does not have wires long enough to reach the Fwd/Rev switch. I had to extend those wires by a good 16” to reach. Not a big deal, but you prob should let people know, because I was baffled for a bit thinking I did something wrong.
Other than that, bravo! Thank you for the guide, it was a huge help!
Great job at the videography and explaining of the process. It takes a lot to keep my attention and you nailed it! If you do all your videos this way y’all will be successful.
Dude, great vid regarding content, video quality, and your presentation.
do you have a list of all the parts needed , I would like to do the same to my cart
Question? The orange wire that you said that goes to the charger... where does that go when you are installing the eco battery charging system? Do you not use that one anymore?
I can’t wait to order my kit! This 18mph on my 36v is annoying! Great video!
Question. The long orange wire that you said goes to battery charger... where does that go when you arr using a eco battery and charger? Do you just not use it? As I am no longer using the o.e.m charging port?
Awesome vid! Would love to see a before / after of the conversion on how it drives.
So where would we get the new harness? Mine has the F/R lever and not a switch so I assume I would need a new harness
This is exactly what I want to do with my 36v PDS TXT. Kit available on your website?
What bracket did you use for the solenoid?
Do you have to do anything extra to the batteries when going from 36 to 48 volts? I couldn't tell in the video if the controller and motor will just do that alone or what
Do you have a playlist for this entire build?
What projects were done before when one started?
Was there any problems with the spline counts on the old motor vs the new one? My motor shows to have a 19 Spline and the Navitas says 10? Just wanna be dang sure before I purchase one of these kits.
The fast and furious bit had me rolling haha hell yeah bro
Great video. I was given a cart which looks just like that one, and looking into upgrading it.
Why do most shops install Navitas and I don’t hear any recommend or install Silverwolf Teekon unless you buy it yourself? Have you heard long term comparisons between Navitas vs Teekon?
I didn’t see how you integrated the 4 pin connector from the existing accelerator pedal, can you help out a brother on that detail?
Thanks for the vid. When increasing the voltage, do you need a different DC to DC converter or does the existing one work ok?
Dumb question What is the grease you were talking about putting behind the controller? And also wouldn't you want to go ahead and have it? Sam blasted and painted before you start putting stuff on it so you don't have to take the controller back off?¿?? Just asking
Great video, must have been a bunch of editing to get this down to 30min!
Do you have a parts list for this conversion?
I have a 2002 6 Passenger TXT series/ITS. Converted from 36V to 48V with an Alltrax controller, HD Fwd/Rev switch, and solenoid.
If I am understanding correctly, the AC conversion does not need the HD Fwd/Rev switch.
What speed range would you see with this Navitas conversion (23" wheels)?
You have no idea how many hours are in this video.
We specialize in that kit and can answer all of your questions about it. Drop us an email at golfcartsmodifiedsales@gmail.com and we can give you more info.
~Travis Andrews GCMod
Excellent video. I'm looking at this kit right now. If I just buy the kit does it include everything you would need? Does it include the Solenoid, and that wiring harness? Do you need to replace the F/R switch?
Any reply about the solenoid?
what was that website that i can get logos on the wires thats such a custom job love it
Great video!! I have a question on the 48V Solenoid, does it need the Diode and Resistor on the MZJ-400? I purchased the 4KW-600 amp DC to AC Conversion Kit and confused if I need to use the diode and resistor on this kit. Any help would be appreciated
You ever figure it out?
@@chrisginoc Yes sir, It runs extremely well.
@@BrianPainter-es4bq I just had the same kit installed on my Club Car DS on a 48v lithium battery. Did you switch out your solenoid with 2 AWG cables on it?
@@chrisginoc Yes I did. I also have 3 - 48v lithium batteries.
@@BrianPainter-es4bq I’m trying to find an affordable set of 2 AWG cables. Which ones did you buy?
I’m building a cart from scratch and I’ve been wondering what piece was on the rear axle ( the bit the motor connects to)
The input shaft on the axle?
Is there a reason for running all the cables in the same green and black sheathing?? Seems like it would make future diagnosing a pain in the ass.
Can I make my old-school Yamaha go fast with this process and your kit or can you let me know what’s the best kit for Old-School Yamaha? I think it’s a 1995 it run super slow I need to run faster.
What is the cost on this to convert it to a 48v?
It’s like 2800 plus parts
Do you happen to know if navitas works with a hall effect type pedal box? When I run the diagnostics the foot switch is on without depressing the pedal. The resting voltage is good at .55v but the foot switch won't engage on the hall pedal. Not sure if this pedal is supposed to be that way and I just have the wrong pedal for this type controller or its something in the settings of the TAC2 controller I can change to make it work?
Where did you get those front shocks and that front black powder coated plate from?
Hey got any videos for an 36v ezgo just got a navitas 440 for it
Freaking awesome Job. You Rock brother. I have an old 1999 Melex about to overhaul it Soon. Thank you for the great Info.
I’m starting with an 02 in the same condition. Frame is clean new battery tray. But I don’t have that plate you put the heat sink on I have a steel plate with the OE solenoid on it. What do I do in that situation?
Send us a pic at sales@gcmod.com we can get you fixed up
Yea I have already. Tomorrow will be day 6 of waiting to be added to the facebook page so I can ask questions but since that’s not looking promising I’ve been emailing every question to your customer service
I thought I finally had all the parts but my pedal control wire is a 4 wire square. Do I need to get a 48V pedal box or will my 36V pedal work if I splice the wires the way you did?
George send me a pic. Ryan@gcmod.com
@@GolfCartsModified I had a black in line connector that had the right color wires. I was able to use the 4 wire connector from the old TXT cart to splice and then use the same pedal. I hit 24 miles an hour after hooking everything up. Now definitely going to need to tighten up steering somehow.
Which 48 volt harness did you use? I have a dcs style ezgo txt limo
Would the be the same install as a marathon?
Do you have a conversion kit for the 1994-2001 36v DCS carts?
When you buy the kit do you also get the harness?
Where is a trusted dealer to buy these kits?
Have a link to the video for rest of this cart build
where you get that floor lift for golf carts at? thanks
This one Came from Northern Tool
@Ryan do I really need a TXT ignition that's rated for 48 volts, won't the old PDS 36 ignition just work fine.
yes the orig will work just fine
So do yall have a conversion kit for an 80s model club car ds with solenoids?
I have a 20 16 Yamaha I’m thinking about upgrading that motor to AC I have the DC motor kit what do you recommend and I got have 3 inch lift on it but it’s the spindle left I don’t like that do you have any ideas for me
Does anyone know how much continuous run time you can get with one of these without overheating the controller?
Great video !!! Do you happen to have any working 36 Volt Motors ForSale . Just picked up another project with no motor but trying to keep cost down
Hi , i have an old Golf Club Cart petrol engone 1993, not sure if you can help me. Cart haș sat for 6 months due to lockdown, it was fine before, but now it works fine apart from the bleeping noise when in reverse gear will not stop in forward, neutral or with the ignition turnee off Off, the petrol gauge returns to empty, but the noise stays on so ive hâd to disconnect the battery to stop the noise. Can you advise me?
That’s a new one. Sounds like a break in the line to the beeper
I just a free gold cart 93 ezgo was working fine and it sat for about 3 years I bought new batteries and Now it doesn’t move forward or in reverse when you pumped Excelerator every once in a while it moves a couple inches in reverse and it diesAny ideas any help any suggestions
Could be a bad ITS sensor. I would start there
Do you have a similar video of swap in an older Club Car DS?
Can this be done on a 2006 E-Z-GO 36v Series cart? If so, will I need a whole new wiring harness to convert to PDX?
I ave a 2003 36 volt series cart that I upgraded to 48 volts and it never had a run/tow switch. I'm thinking I can convert this to the Navitas system using a stock PDS harness and will need to add a switch. Since the pDS harness only has 2 wires for a switch, can I use a SPST switch?
Can this be used on a EZGO marathon?
What happens when the Navitas Speed Controller gets wet from rain dripping through the seat cracks or water splashes up from the road? Is it more waterproof than what comes with most all carts or can it be made to be better about taking water splashes on Street Legal Carts?
The controller is IP rated for dust and moisture. I wouldn’t go mudding or driving into a pond with it but it’s ok if it gets drips or splashes on it. Keep in mind that’s just the controller, if you have old sketchy wiring you may have a potential short that could damage the controller.
You should not have any issues when it comes to water splashing on it. You do not want to spray directly with water though.
where can one get a 5kw motor for the yamaha drive? the few places i've found that sell the dc to ac conversion kits only have the 4kw motor. i'm assuming the 5kw will make better top speed?
We sell the 5k kit for the Yamaha. Same speed as a 4K just more torque
Thanks for you videos really good explained , I been tune
Thanks David
What’s the range after the changes? I’m looking to build the coolest on course cart but it needs to go 72 holes
As far as Range goes that’s typically a battery area. This kit on Lead Acid you will typically see around 17-20 miles of range. If you add a Eco 105 lithium now your getting into the 35-40 mile range
You have an awesome channel here.. Thank you for install video..!
Awesome what im looking for a old cart to rebuild it like this to what i want..this a/c an lithium battery pack will be less than a good used slow cart
I’m upgrading a 1995 Medalist 36v to this system. Can you point me to a good aftermarket F/R rocker switch? Maybe easier to just mount one for a TXT on my dash. Also planning to run Li-Ion 48v system, BigBattery has a nice drop in system for about $2k. Any recommendations?
I have same cart. Did you do the upgrade?
For the loud back up horn, you can just insert a run of the mill foam ear plug from CVS, will reduce the sound to virtually nothing…yes that defeats the purpose of the warning system but then again we’re talking golf carts, not heavy machinery like backhoes and trucks.
Great video. Ordered my kit today and can't wait. What is the song you're playing for background music in this? I've looked everywhere and can't figure it out lol
is there a kit i can buy from Wirecare for the techflex cable kit on a 2004 ezgo txt 36v
I just got my kit delivered today. Looking forward to the install. I can't say enough on how helpful Travis was in helping with my build! Its a frame off so there's a lot of work to do. Thanks for all your videos, gave me a lot of ideas. BTW where did you get the tow hook the Black ezgo build?
I Don’t remember where I got the Monster Hook from. Let me see if I can find them
Where did you buy the GC cables from?
What did you use to mount the solenoid??
I used 2 90° brackets I got from any big box store. 2” brackets
Have an old cart electric with mechanical throttle how do this kit handle the conversion?
You will have to purchase a new box with ITS Induction Throttle Sensor.
I’m getting a clicking sound from my solenoid. What did I do wrong? 🤷♂️
I have a 2001 ezgo txt 36 volt with six 6volt batteries if i want to convert to the 48v upgrade do I need to replace the batteries as well?
Duh
Awesome video Ryan! Nice work!
What side deos the b+ go to on the solinode, and what geos to the positive battery side
The Battery Pos goes to one side of the solenoid. Then from the other side of solenoid goes to B+ on the controller
What is thermal grease and where do you recommend getting it?
It is not required. We have never used it on anything. Some companies say use it but we never have.
How do switch between reverse and forward
Our Series conversion kit converts the cart over to a toggle switch for the FNR switch. No more handle.
What are the color code for the fnr switch I have green grey and orange
@@GolfCartsModified you say no more handle. Was this cart originally a 36 volt series with shifter below the seat? And would this kit work well on an Ez-go PDS?
What happens if the buzzer is unhooked? Mine has been unhooked from day one and I just did the ac conversion kit and all seems to be working fine, unless I'm missing something. What happens?
Nothing will happen. They use the beeper to help with diagnosis problems.
100k for the win!!!
I couldn't help but notice that you're missing the resister from post to post on the low amp wiring of your 400a Solenoid. Is there a disadvantage/advantage to this? I thought the controller would error out if this wasn't present... Thanks!
How much does it cost for all the parts?
That’s what I like to know
What’s the Cost on buying the kit
Depends on the cart. Shoot us a email at golfcartsmodifiedsales@gmail.com
What is the total cost?
Over 3k
Dude a 1/4 20 is a #7 drill bit not a #10
I just picked up a junkyard cart. I'm realizing the first thing I need to do is tear the whole thing down and get it powder coated.
I bought this kit for a cart that had no wiring no nothing. What type of throttle do i need?
who did you buy it from? and What type of cart are we working on?
I have a 2006 California Roaster 48 volts, can I use this kit on it
i noticed you said it was a 16 pin connector from the stock harness, the stock 36 volt pds is a 10 pin, will that work on this application?
Good stuff
thats about 2k but if your starting from scratch the way to go
Nice
Not the worst video ever but @fentertainment could probably use someone to sweep his shop! #fentertainment
The guy uses Cheap, junk, harbor freight tools and not the right size drill bit. Eyes up his work, must have had a broken harbor freight tape measure.
That’s a good one sir. You totally got me with that one.
100k
What do I need to convert a 2007 TXT 36v PDS to 48 volt AC?
100k