RUclips has plenty of laser content, most of it extremely amateur and or lowbrow "let's burn things" content. And then there's the videos that tell you how to "make" a dollar store laser pointer into a high power 1 watt laser by simply replacing the entire module and power delivery system. Or the videos that tell you how you actually *can* burn things with a $1 pointer by hooking it to a bench power supply and upping the voltage. Even though the balloon pops off screen, trust them, honest, it works. Just ask the 1300 people who "liked" the video because they've never seen how a dollar diode fries when you hook it up to a 12 volt power source. Probably the same folks who watch those "over unity" free power nonsense and believe it because they want it to be true. Zenodilodon is one of the few other laser hobbyist channels with class and actually tries to educate you. He knows his stuff too. Sure, Styropyro is fun for a minute, but anyone interested in lasers for a decent amount of time knows lasers can be used to cut steel, so Styropyro's antics don't provide lasting interest.
I had one of those. They are not too difficult to operate. Just make sure the TEC units are properly operated as it is extremely sensitive temperature wise. The laser diode in it is 5W but run at about 3W in normal operation. The crystal in it is a LBO but the ends are coated with a MgF/ZrO AR coating. The little BK tek blue laser drivers for 473nm dpss lasers work great to run these. 🤓😁❤
Thanks! The output coupler should be high reflective at IR wavelengths as you need as much circulating power as possible in the cavity to get efficient frequency doubling. It is likely there is an additional IR cut filter at the front of the assembly as well.
Good video, a note on the pump diode. They usually hit nominal output around 1.8v to 1.9 max. I have seen larger ones hit up into the 2v range for the 808nm but I typically keep it in the 1.9v range. Now that might sound like I am speaking of voltage regulation but no, this is voltage drop at room temp at a good current set point. Looks like it's a 2 - 5 watt pump, given the threshold probably a 2 watt pump thus giving it about 2 amps upper nominal range ( It's about 1 amp per optical watt on an 808nm laser diode at nominal operating current ) You can probably get a pair of wavelength electronics TEC controllers to run the closed loop thermal regulation on your pump diode and SHG. I have messed around with some LBO stuff and left a 473 resonator out for like 10 years and it still worked, I think BiBO is the hydroscopic crystal people worry about the most, but any removable of water and oxygen helps longevity in any case. Sometimes crystals can be restored by heating slowly over time to drive moisture out of them but it's tricky as rapid heat can cause fracturing. 561nm is one of the wavelengths I have yet to acquire myself. Currently I am excited to get in some SVAP based 565nm and 574nm. I think they are bad pumps and use 940 ish nm for the pump, I am thinking maybe the 946nm line from ND:YVO4 will be a good go to. I could easily keep rambling but I am going to take a look at your other videos.
Thanks! Yes, I figured greater than 2W, but figured a conservative estimate of 3W since I couldn't get any data on the diode. 5W is probably more reasonable, from what I have read, doubling to this wavelength is not particularly efficient. I have thought about driving the TEC's with a closed loop but that is job for another day. The Laser seems to run fairly stable at room temp without them and I haven't observed anything particularly weird...yet. That said, it would be nice to see this run at 50mW! :-) I have a question for you, since you have had experience of these, Is is possible to cut LBO for a specific design temperature? I wonder, because the lack of fans and the narrow operating temperature range from the datasheet, it seems unlikely that cavity elements would be too far away from the centre of the operating range, else there would be issues getting rid of the heat. What do you reckon?
@@LesLaboratory Not really, the temperature stability has to do with maintaining the distance between the HR and OC of the resonator to keep the phases of the waves in the right condition for SHG to happen. Regardless of how long the LBO is temperature will still effect that distance. One easy solution if you can find it is the Hytek HY5640 which is a compact TEC controller. Sadly they are hard to find but little trinkets of gold when you do and usually fairly priced. pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet_pdf/hytek-microsystems/HY5640.pdf
@@Zenodilodon Figured something like that. Cool thanks, I will keep my eye out for that one. I was considering building a TEC controller, but It looks like keeping the temp to within a fraction of degree would be an epic challenge from scratch. Far better to source off the shelf modules, once you factor in time spent hair pulling!
Chartreuse color, as defined by the Web Color Code as RGB 127, 255, 0 looks definitely greenish to me. To my eyes what looks like "pure" lemon yellow is equal parts of red and green - RGB 255, 255, 0. I'd like to have a laser with a warmer yellow like RGB 255, 217, 0
Thanks! The machining is quite precise, however the carriages for each of the optical elements are epoxied in and have little tabs on the top. My guess is these are set at the factory either by robots in a jig, or by hand before the epoxy cures. The heads require a matched power supply (i.e the serial numbers must match) my guess is the temperature set points are also tailored per device, which makes each head more or less a one off.
That's only the second one of these I've seen; I own the first one I've ever seen! Mine read dead short even with the matched controller connected; I assumed it was a failed relay, in fact it turned out to be physical damage that caused the bond wires to short to the LD substrate, the fault was rectified by the use of a fine needle and a high magnification microscope to lift the bond wires. I purged mine with argon prior to sealing it.
Sound like a fun job, those bond wires are super fine. I sat the unit on top of the radiator, and heated the bags of desiccant a little before re-assembly, so it should be all good.
I bought a couple laser modules off Alibaba 2 or 3 years ago it was sold as 575nm it's a bright yellow color it doesn't look green at all but the camera pics it up as green. it doesn't run in tem00 mode it's almost like 3 dots merged into one but it's not noticeable enough to tell it's a little unstable but works great. the module was small 20mm diameter by 30mm or 40mm long I was able to build it into a handheld I used an old dragonlasers Spartan host I haven't done anything with the other yet they cost me about $50 each shipped I still see these for sale but now they want $250 for them. it makes my 589nm Spartan laser look orange when side by side.
Cool! I have been looking at those too, just waiting on the price dropping to reasonable levels. At the prices they were offering, I am surprised they did not get into the laser pointer game.
That would be a great and unique test to actually try to film a single laser with a bunch of different cameras to really see how differently they can pick up the same wavelength. As example I have a 440nm diode which looks like purest blue to the eye, and some cameras can pick it up either as violet or as pure blue or as blue with cyan highlights. I also have a 405nm laser, clearly violet to the eye, but for example quality cameras can pick it up as violet, and some cheap CCD sensors like GC2023 action camera or car dashboard registrator will see it as bright blue with even cyan hue. Also, the UV 365nm diode looks like magenta color to my Samsung Galaxy Note III rear camera, and like violet to the front camera, etc. So, try to film the 561 laser with: -- good DSLR as already done in this video; -- Some modern smartphone cameras like Samsung/Iphone/Huawei/Xiaomi/anything else including front cam as well -- Cheap action camera or nightvision CCTV or carcam with cheap/obsolete CCD sensor; -- Webcam; -- 0.3MP pinhole from the common old cellphone from middle 2000s; -- oldsk00l VHS camcorder... -- et cetera. I bet, some of them should pick up this wavelength either pure green, or pure yellow, or salad-green a.k.a. canary-yellow (closest to how human eye sees it)
That would be a cool idea! Yes, a lot of cameras are shocking. Red lasers on this one look awful. Kind of a weird neon pink. I will have to crack out the DSLR again and do a comparison.
Lasers always look beautiful when you take the lid off, do you watch Marco Repps channel ? he has some great gear and its 'lime green ' to me...cheers.
I suspected as much. Although I could not find any data on the module, the scientific literature seems to suggest the best efficiencies were obtained with LBO.
Недавно придбав лазерну указку 561нм. При порівнянні з 589нм 561 здається злегка зеленоватим, а в порівнянні з 532нм він здається кислотно-жовтим. Дуже химерний колір😊
In my eyes, it's still green/chartreuse. I'm actually building a 561nm laser pointer rn, but that module uses a self frequency doubling crystal instead.
To me it looks more green on camera, the camera may not be able to pick up the wavelength completely. When I saw the dot it looked like a yellowish neon green
Yeah, video cameras are the devils work for color like this. To me it looks quite yellow, but the camera sees it as green. The spectrometer though never lies!
@@LesLaboratory You might also be slightly deutan colorblind. I know someone who just literally found that out last week after living for 28 years thinking they had perfectly normal sight. That's probably not the case, but it's a theory. You might take a colorblindness test just to be sure! It looks brilliantly Lime Green to me while the other laser looks to be Emerald Green, but camera do lie sometimes.
An output coupler, is the output mirror of a laser. this normally allows a small percentage of light to pass through, but the majority is reflected back into the cavity.
have a question , Can you with rasperry pi , build a laser in , so you Can meassure the colour on Coffe beans , realtime , when they are in the roaster. , so you Can stop it roast , when reach the right colour , i dont know much or anything about this , so have to ask the right person 😊thanks
I haven't really thought about measuring the color of coffee beans, butI am sure there is likely to be a simpler and less expensive way way than a spectroscope though. Have you seen these sensors: www.adafruit.com/product/1334 $8 for a simple color sensor is where I would start
@@LesLaboratory hi mate , thanks for reply, I don’t know much about all this electronics , but would think you need a program to , there know the colors , but how to put it together I don’t know , but would be awesome to be able to build one , maybe you would try to look into it in one of your videos here on RUclips , thanks again , will continue to follow your channel , interesting👍
I have seen a RUclips video , from a company , color-track , where you can see it , with laser , but I think the company doesn’t exist anymore, and when they sell the device it maybe was expensive , it was working with something called cropster, I think it the program to do real-time , but not sure 👍thanks again
The wavelength of YAG/Vanadate will drift with temperature, but it is somewhere in the region of 0.05nm/degree. You would probably need to tile the LBO as well to phas match with the new wavelength, assuming the YAG survived.
i have a DPSS head similar to this in build that was about 520nm in color , it appears to have a cracked doubler crystal , what would possibly be the crystal type for that?
I have a 561 nm DPSS myself, I would never call it yellow, the closest 561 gets to yellow is a lime green color, but you did say it is between yellow and green. I have yet to see photo's or video from a camera which correctly shows the tint of either yellow or lime-green lasers. My 575 nm pointer looks more green than yellow on a camera too, as did your video showing the 574 nm module. I don't know why cameras cannot capture yellow properly. I am not sure how your color blindness affects seeing yellow, but it's lime green.
Yeah, cameras truly suck for representing color correctly. The Bayer filters on Cameras try to emulate the response curves of the eye, but they do a really poor job. On top of that, the emission curves for the RGB pixels in monitors is pretty poor s well. I have 574 nm module here: ruclips.net/video/77WVaUkEDC4/видео.html that is most assuredly yellow, but again, the camera sees it as green, and I have a "Yellow" but bordering on Orange He-Ne laser that still look green on camera: ruclips.net/video/n0KfTD7HfB4/видео.html Visually it depends on lighting or frame of reference for me. Next to green it looks yellowish, but next to red looks greenish. Its actually pretty fascinating the way the human visual system interprets color data, there are entire papers (and some fun optical illusions) that demonstrate that most of what we see is actually quite a bizarre construct.
@@LesLaboratory thanks for your reply. i figured out it was laser controller's problem. error light and laser emission light can not be turn on anymore. can you help us fix that. thanks.
@@LesLaboratory thanks for your response. we figured out that it was the problem of laser controler. when we turn the key on, emission light on the controler is not on.
I’ve watched your laser videos dozens of times. Truly some wonderful laser and optical content! Which is extremely rare on RUclips!
Thanks! I am glad you like them, I will keep it up!
RUclips has plenty of laser content, most of it extremely amateur and or lowbrow "let's burn things" content. And then there's the videos that tell you how to "make" a dollar store laser pointer into a high power 1 watt laser by simply replacing the entire module and power delivery system.
Or the videos that tell you how you actually *can* burn things with a $1 pointer by hooking it to a bench power supply and upping the voltage. Even though the balloon pops off screen, trust them, honest, it works. Just ask the 1300 people who "liked" the video because they've never seen how a dollar diode fries when you hook it up to a 12 volt power source. Probably the same folks who watch those "over unity" free power nonsense and believe it because they want it to be true.
Zenodilodon is one of the few other laser hobbyist channels with class and actually tries to educate you. He knows his stuff too.
Sure, Styropyro is fun for a minute, but anyone interested in lasers for a decent amount of time knows lasers can be used to cut steel, so Styropyro's antics don't provide lasting interest.
What a beautiful lime green beam
It is way cool!
It’s color reminds me more of uranium
24/3/2024 Sunday 1:40PM
I had one of those. They are not too difficult to operate. Just make sure the TEC units are properly operated as it is extremely sensitive temperature wise. The laser diode in it is 5W but run at about 3W in normal operation. The crystal in it is a LBO but the ends are coated with a MgF/ZrO AR coating. The little BK tek blue laser drivers for 473nm dpss lasers work great to run these. 🤓😁❤
Awesome! Thanks for the info. There seems to be little about these floating about.
Just love this video, very clear explanation. So how is the excess infrared filtered out of the beam, is that done in the output coupler?
Thanks! The output coupler should be high reflective at IR wavelengths as you need as much circulating power as possible in the cavity to get efficient frequency doubling. It is likely there is an additional IR cut filter at the front of the assembly as well.
@@LesLaboratory That makes sense. Thanks for answering!
definitely green!
On camera yes its green but in real life it depends how your eyes see green or yellow light.
Good video, a note on the pump diode. They usually hit nominal output around 1.8v to 1.9 max. I have seen larger ones hit up into the 2v range for the 808nm but I typically keep it in the 1.9v range. Now that might sound like I am speaking of voltage regulation but no, this is voltage drop at room temp at a good current set point. Looks like it's a 2 - 5 watt pump, given the threshold probably a 2 watt pump thus giving it about 2 amps upper nominal range ( It's about 1 amp per optical watt on an 808nm laser diode at nominal operating current ) You can probably get a pair of wavelength electronics TEC controllers to run the closed loop thermal regulation on your pump diode and SHG. I have messed around with some LBO stuff and left a 473 resonator out for like 10 years and it still worked, I think BiBO is the hydroscopic crystal people worry about the most, but any removable of water and oxygen helps longevity in any case. Sometimes crystals can be restored by heating slowly over time to drive moisture out of them but it's tricky as rapid heat can cause fracturing. 561nm is one of the wavelengths I have yet to acquire myself. Currently I am excited to get in some SVAP based 565nm and 574nm. I think they are bad pumps and use 940 ish nm for the pump, I am thinking maybe the 946nm line from ND:YVO4 will be a good go to. I could easily keep rambling but I am going to take a look at your other videos.
Thanks! Yes, I figured greater than 2W, but figured a conservative estimate of 3W since I couldn't get any data on the diode. 5W is probably more reasonable, from what I have read, doubling to this wavelength is not particularly efficient.
I have thought about driving the TEC's with a closed loop but that is job for another day. The Laser seems to run fairly stable at room temp without them and I haven't observed anything particularly weird...yet. That said, it would be nice to see this run at 50mW! :-)
I have a question for you, since you have had experience of these, Is is possible to cut LBO for a specific design temperature? I wonder, because the lack of fans and the narrow operating temperature range from the datasheet, it seems unlikely that cavity elements would be too far away from the centre of the operating range, else there would be issues getting rid of the heat. What do you reckon?
@@LesLaboratory Not really, the temperature stability has to do with maintaining the distance between the HR and OC of the resonator to keep the phases of the waves in the right condition for SHG to happen. Regardless of how long the LBO is temperature will still effect that distance.
One easy solution if you can find it is the Hytek HY5640 which is a compact TEC controller. Sadly they are hard to find but little trinkets of gold when you do and usually fairly priced.
pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet_pdf/hytek-microsystems/HY5640.pdf
@@Zenodilodon Figured something like that. Cool thanks, I will keep my eye out for that one. I was considering building a TEC controller, but It looks like keeping the temp to within a fraction of degree would be an epic challenge from scratch. Far better to source off the shelf modules, once you factor in time spent hair pulling!
Chartreuse color, as defined by the Web Color Code as RGB 127, 255, 0 looks definitely greenish to me. To my eyes what looks like "pure" lemon yellow is equal parts of red and green - RGB 255, 255, 0. I'd like to have a laser with a warmer yellow like RGB 255, 217, 0
Great video as always. Do you have any idea how the optical components are aligned? Precise machining, glue, adjustable mounts, etc?
Thanks! The machining is quite precise, however the carriages for each of the optical elements are epoxied in and have little tabs on the top. My guess is these are set at the factory either by robots in a jig, or by hand before the epoxy cures.
The heads require a matched power supply (i.e the serial numbers must match) my guess is the temperature set points are also tailored per device, which makes each head more or less a one off.
That's only the second one of these I've seen; I own the first one I've ever seen! Mine read dead short even with the matched controller connected; I assumed it was a failed relay, in fact it turned out to be physical damage that caused the bond wires to short to the LD substrate, the fault was rectified by the use of a fine needle and a high magnification microscope to lift the bond wires. I purged mine with argon prior to sealing it.
Sound like a fun job, those bond wires are super fine. I sat the unit on top of the radiator, and heated the bags of desiccant a little before re-assembly, so it should be all good.
I bought a couple laser modules off Alibaba 2 or 3 years ago it was sold as 575nm it's a bright yellow color it doesn't look green at all but the camera pics it up as green.
it doesn't run in tem00 mode it's almost like 3 dots merged into one but it's not noticeable enough to tell it's a little unstable but works great.
the module was small 20mm diameter by 30mm or 40mm long I was able to build it into a handheld I used an old dragonlasers Spartan host I haven't done anything with the other yet they cost me about $50 each shipped I still see these for sale but now they want $250 for them. it makes my 589nm Spartan laser look orange when side by side.
Cool! I have been looking at those too, just waiting on the price dropping to reasonable levels. At the prices they were offering, I am surprised they did not get into the laser pointer game.
Definitely yellow!
I have a 561nm laser, and its beam terminus spot definitely looks greenish to me.
That would be a great and unique test to actually try to film a single laser with a bunch of different cameras to really see how differently they can pick up the same wavelength. As example I have a 440nm diode which looks like purest blue to the eye, and some cameras can pick it up either as violet or as pure blue or as blue with cyan highlights. I also have a 405nm laser, clearly violet to the eye, but for example quality cameras can pick it up as violet, and some cheap CCD sensors like GC2023 action camera or car dashboard registrator will see it as bright blue with even cyan hue. Also, the UV 365nm diode looks like magenta color to my Samsung Galaxy Note III rear camera, and like violet to the front camera, etc. So, try to film the 561 laser with:
-- good DSLR as already done in this video;
-- Some modern smartphone cameras like Samsung/Iphone/Huawei/Xiaomi/anything else including front cam as well
-- Cheap action camera or nightvision CCTV or carcam with cheap/obsolete CCD sensor;
-- Webcam;
-- 0.3MP pinhole from the common old cellphone from middle 2000s;
-- oldsk00l VHS camcorder...
-- et cetera. I bet, some of them should pick up this wavelength either pure green, or pure yellow, or salad-green a.k.a. canary-yellow (closest to how human eye sees it)
That would be a cool idea! Yes, a lot of cameras are shocking. Red lasers on this one look awful. Kind of a weird neon pink. I will have to crack out the DSLR again and do a comparison.
Lasers always look beautiful when you take the lid off, do you watch Marco Repps channel ? he has some great gear and its 'lime green ' to me...cheers.
Yes, he gets hold of some cool stuff over on the continent. He did a real interesting video lately with solid state photo multipliers in it.
Green 💚
The doubler in these is LBO as far as I have been able to determine
I suspected as much. Although I could not find any data on the module, the scientific literature seems to suggest the best efficiencies were obtained with LBO.
that is a green color kot yellow color.Some green laser has this type of green instead of deeper green.
U should measure it the laser beam with your spectrometer.
Green)))
green.
Недавно придбав лазерну указку 561нм. При порівнянні з 589нм 561 здається злегка зеленоватим, а в порівнянні з 532нм він здається кислотно-жовтим. Дуже химерний колір😊
Хороший! то, что я действительно хотел бы видеть, это 610 нм!
In my eyes, it's still green/chartreuse. I'm actually building a 561nm laser pointer rn, but that module uses a self frequency doubling crystal instead.
Awesome! Where do you get the crystals for that?
@@LesLaboratory I sent you a mail about where to get the modules.
Thanks! :-)
The laser module is from lasence, i have a 555nm laser module from lasence
To me it looks more green on camera, the camera may not be able to pick up the wavelength completely. When I saw the dot it looked like a yellowish neon green
Yeah, video cameras are the devils work for color like this. To me it looks quite yellow, but the camera sees it as green. The spectrometer though never lies!
@@LesLaboratory You might also be slightly deutan colorblind. I know someone who just literally found that out last week after living for 28 years thinking they had perfectly normal sight. That's probably not the case, but it's a theory. You might take a colorblindness test just to be sure!
It looks brilliantly Lime Green to me while the other laser looks to be Emerald Green, but camera do lie sometimes.
It looks very green on camera
It does. Cameras are very poor at rendering some colors, especially the pure spectral colors from Lasers.
What does 'output coupler' mean please (maybe dumb question)...cheers.
An output coupler, is the output mirror of a laser. this normally allows a small percentage of light to pass through, but the majority is reflected back into the cavity.
@@LesLaboratory Oh ok, like half silvered mirror at the end of a home brew laser !
To me those dessicant packs scream lithium triborate. Those crystals can be damaged\destroyed from absorbing moisture.
Same. I left the thing on the radiator for a while before buttoning it back up, just in case!
On my Nokia 3.4 it looks green to me.
have a question , Can you with rasperry pi , build a laser in , so you Can meassure the colour on Coffe beans , realtime , when they are in the roaster. , so you Can stop it roast , when reach the right colour , i dont know much or anything about this , so have to ask the right person 😊thanks
I haven't really thought about measuring the color of coffee beans, butI am sure there is likely to be a simpler and less expensive way way than a spectroscope though.
Have you seen these sensors: www.adafruit.com/product/1334
$8 for a simple color sensor is where I would start
@@LesLaboratory hi mate , thanks for reply, I don’t know much about all this electronics , but would think you need a program to , there know the colors , but how to put it together I don’t know , but would be awesome to be able to build one , maybe you would try to look into it in one of your videos here on RUclips , thanks again , will continue to follow your channel , interesting👍
I have seen a RUclips video , from a company , color-track , where you can see it , with laser , but I think the company doesn’t exist anymore, and when they sell the device it maybe was expensive , it was working with something called cropster, I think it the program to do real-time , but not sure 👍thanks again
Could you make it shift towards yellow by varying the yag temperature?
The wavelength of YAG/Vanadate will drift with temperature, but it is somewhere in the region of 0.05nm/degree. You would probably need to tile the LBO as well to phas match with the new wavelength, assuming the YAG survived.
it looks green to me.
i have a DPSS head similar to this in build that was about 520nm in color , it appears to have a cracked doubler crystal , what would possibly be the crystal type for that?
It could be KTP (which is fairly cheap) or LBO or BBO (both expensive). do you have any data on the Laser?
@@LesLaboratory i havnt looked into it for years because it seemed all too hard but ill drag it out again soon and have a look again
I have a 561 nm DPSS myself, I would never call it yellow, the closest 561 gets to yellow is a lime green color, but you did say it is between yellow and green. I have yet to see photo's or video from a camera which correctly shows the tint of either yellow or lime-green lasers. My 575 nm pointer looks more green than yellow on a camera too, as did your video showing the 574 nm module. I don't know why cameras cannot capture yellow properly. I am not sure how your color blindness affects seeing yellow, but it's lime green.
Yeah, cameras truly suck for representing color correctly. The Bayer filters on Cameras try to emulate the response curves of the eye, but they do a really poor job. On top of that, the emission curves for the RGB pixels in monitors is pretty poor s well.
I have 574 nm module here: ruclips.net/video/77WVaUkEDC4/видео.html that is most assuredly yellow, but again, the camera sees it as green, and I have a "Yellow" but bordering on Orange He-Ne laser that still look green on camera: ruclips.net/video/n0KfTD7HfB4/видео.html
Visually it depends on lighting or frame of reference for me. Next to green it looks yellowish, but next to red looks greenish. Its actually pretty fascinating the way the human visual system interprets color data, there are entire papers (and some fun optical illusions) that demonstrate that most of what we see is actually quite a bizarre construct.
Cannot managed to watch till the end of the video because of sharp metal tweezers twirling all over open space optics
:-D It's fine, steady hands and nerves of steel!
do you know why this laser beeping when we turn it on. and there is no emission light. thanks.
do you have more information. what power supply are you using, how many beeps, what is the period between beeps, any lights on and so on.
@@LesLaboratory thanks for your reply. i figured out it was laser controller's problem. error light and laser emission light can not be turn on anymore. can you help us fix that. thanks.
@@LesLaboratory thanks for your response. we figured out that it was the problem of laser controler. when we turn the key on, emission light on the controler is not on.