When will you be making the video showing how to configure and use the limit switches in g sender? The documentation does not seem as complete or as easy to follow as a video. It seems that another viewer has the same question (Mace Eliason).
There may be a pt.2 down the line, but in the meantime the instructions for the configuration can be found here: resources.sienci.com/view/lmk2-limit-switches/#firmware-changes
I got very lucky on y axis bracket install but I could see it taking hours. I might suggest that with as many spare parts come with initial build the instructions should just have you put one in each corner at initial assembly, tighten them down and forget them until it’s sensor time.
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll pass this idea along to the powers that be. Really glad that you are up and running, if you have any other feedback, we'd love to hear it.
It looks like the Y bracket would be easier installed during assembly of the mill. Alternatively, a hole in the table so a long Allen key can be used from below would also help.
Technically yes, it would be easier at the start. We do mention and show the assembly process in the last 48x30 assembly video. That being said, we generally don't recommend using the homing switches until getting familiar with the CNC in general, so a lot of people still get it after they started.
I may have missed it somewhere,. I'm saving my allowance, again, to get a Longmill. Why are we using inductive sensors rather than micro-switches which are more compact and less expensive?
A lot of the value and reasoning for selecting inductive sensors over mechanical micro switches on a CNC router is that the switches can fail or become less reliable from being in a dusty environment or seeing repeated actuations whereas the sensors have no moving pieces and are fully enclosed. You'll see this choice for greater reliability on other CNCs as well 👍
Hi Mace, we're still in the process of filming the other videos but this whole process is already written in our online resources (the videos are just being made as an alternate point of reference). Because of this, you can still easily finish the setup process using the documentation: resources.sienci.com/view/lmk2-limit-switches/#firmware-changes
It’s it just me, or when doing the z axis the bolt on the backlash assembly hits the lead screw lock nut? This isn’t ideal, as the newer locknuts are thicker and impact the gantry before the limit is covered.
Just attempted to install mine and this issue is occurring. The new style backlash adjuster hits the lead screw lock nut before it can even get in range of the sensor. Likely build my own bracket as the current setup needs a bit more engineering.
The tricky bit! After 15 minutes I quit fiddling and opened the tee nut access hole with a Dremel allowing the bolt to be pre assembled with the tee nut.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
At 05:35 you inverted X and Z limit switch connectors 🙂
When will you be making the video showing how to configure and use the limit switches in g sender? The documentation does not seem as complete or as easy to follow as a video. It seems that another viewer has the same question (Mace Eliason).
There may be a pt.2 down the line, but in the meantime the instructions for the configuration can be found here: resources.sienci.com/view/lmk2-limit-switches/#firmware-changes
I got very lucky on y axis bracket install but I could see it taking hours. I might suggest that with as many spare parts come with initial build the instructions should just have you put one in each corner at initial assembly, tighten them down and forget them until it’s sensor time.
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll pass this idea along to the powers that be. Really glad that you are up and running, if you have any other feedback, we'd love to hear it.
It looks like the Y bracket would be easier installed during assembly of the mill. Alternatively, a hole in the table so a long Allen key can be used from below would also help.
Technically yes, it would be easier at the start. We do mention and show the assembly process in the last 48x30 assembly video. That being said, we generally don't recommend using the homing switches until getting familiar with the CNC in general, so a lot of people still get it after they started.
I may have missed it somewhere,. I'm saving my allowance, again, to get a Longmill. Why are we using inductive sensors rather than micro-switches which are more compact and less expensive?
A lot of the value and reasoning for selecting inductive sensors over mechanical micro switches on a CNC router is that the switches can fail or become less reliable from being in a dusty environment or seeing repeated actuations whereas the sensors have no moving pieces and are fully enclosed. You'll see this choice for greater reliability on other CNCs as well 👍
@@SienciLabs Okay, thanks. Good points. I hadn't considered dust.
I have my switches and have yet to connect as I did not have no idea how to, thanks for this video, am going to follow it and connect mine.
We’re can I find the next video on enabeling in gsender? Watched the video waiting for that part and sadly it’s not there
Hi Mace, we're still in the process of filming the other videos but this whole process is already written in our online resources (the videos are just being made as an alternate point of reference). Because of this, you can still easily finish the setup process using the documentation: resources.sienci.com/view/lmk2-limit-switches/#firmware-changes
It’s it just me, or when doing the z axis the bolt on the backlash assembly hits the lead screw lock nut? This isn’t ideal, as the newer locknuts are thicker and impact the gantry before the limit is covered.
Just attempted to install mine and this issue is occurring. The new style backlash adjuster hits the lead screw lock nut before it can even get in range of the sensor. Likely build my own bracket as the current setup needs a bit more engineering.
@@markgiao2489 I got it to work, but I would suggest that it's something to resolve for the MK3
The tricky bit! After 15 minutes I quit fiddling and opened the tee nut access hole with a Dremel allowing the bolt to be pre assembled with the tee nut.